Fear-the-turtle
May 2nd, 2009, 06:10 PM
When I put "long" in the title, I did mean it. However, I have used bold section headings so you can pick and choose!
As way of introduction, my husband (59) and I (56) are new to Holland America and a European cruise but not new to cruising. This was a retirement celebration cruise for us. We loved HAL and especially the beautiful Noordam. I will post my complete review here but will also include my reviews of the ports of call in the Europe/Mediterranean section of these message boards as well. So if you go over there, see my review and think you’re reading double, you are!
Pre-Cruise - We flew into Rome 3 days before our cruise, which left April 19, and spent those days walking all over Rome, seeing all the major sites . . . and then some. Our hotel (Hotel Italia Roma) was wonderful – a small gem near Termini Station – which we found by reading scads of reviews on TripAdvisor. We always felt safe near our hotel, and perhaps because we were well-prepared with money belts, we never felt threatened by pickpockets at any place we visited in Rome. Indeed, we never saw but one “gypsy child.” I’m not saying pickpockets are not out yet; I am saying to be prepared. We wore money belts, I did not carry a purse, and my husband carried a book bag satchel with snacks, antibacterial wipes, Kleenex, things that didn’t matter if they were lifted. Do be careful; be aware of your surroundings.
Train to the Port - On Sunday morning, the 19th, we bought tickets at Termini Train Station for the ride to Civitavecchia. The ticket agent automatically (I guess) assumed we wanted the express train, so we paid 17 euros (for two) when the regional train would gave been significantly less. However, we did arrive quicker and did get assigned seating in an enclosed car (seating for six, with racks above for luggage), and as we surveyed the train, a Termini employee helped us find the right car and lifted our baggage into those racks. We did tip him. We knew we had one stop before ours, and we knew when our train should arrive in Civitavecchia, so ten minutes prior, we began staging our luggage near the exit door. We did have two flights of stairs to negotiate, but they were both short staircases. We met two other couples emerging from the stairs, realized we were all going to the Noordam, so we shared a cab. Had it not been a steady rain, we would have done the walk to the port that others on these message boards talk about. The cab ride cost us five euros each, and he delivered us directly to the ship. We did not have to use the port shuttle bus.
Embarkation and Stateroom - Embarkation was the easiest we have ever experienced. Much of that was a result of 650 of the Noordam’s 1,900 passengers remaining onboard from the previous cruise. We 3 couples were the only ones in the building, so we breezed through security and check-in, smiled quickly for the photographer, and found our cabin. We had booked an inside guarantee almost nine months ahead, and even 5 days before we sailed, we still did not have a room assignment. We were thrilled to discover we had been upgraded to an unobstructed ocean view room on the first floor – thank you, HAL!!! That location meant we did not feel as much of the ship’s movement during the last 2 rough sea days, but it also meant (we were in room 1008, very close to the front of the ship – actually, mere steps from the Vista Lounge!) we heard quite a bit of engine noise. I say “engine”; we were never sure. Whatever it was, it came frequently and loudly, but not so annoying as we could not sleep. Still, I would avoid this area of the ship in the future.
The cabin was spacious enough; we had the bed as well as a couch and table. We missed having a desk or bureau with drawers; the desk had two shelves hidden by a door The 3 closets were quite enough for us, but we felt crowded at times since the closets are directly across from the bathroom, which also was spacious. We loved the large, plush bath towels; the Elemis bath products; the nice bathrobes; and the elegant bedding. Our room steward was speedy and incredibly unobtrusive. The 3 times we did see him, he called us by name. I think that’s amazing. He gave us a different towel animal each evening, straightened up whatever we had left out, and always refreshed the fruit basket.
The Noordam - The ship is lovely. Fresh flowers are everywhere, large bonsai plants adorn each elevator waiting area, and the dining room uses beautiful bone china. We found the photographers to be available but never pushy – to wit, they appeared at the port gangplank only once or twice. Very few announcements are made, and the silent disembarkation was new to us – how wonderful!! The theater has very few obstructed seats, and whereas on other ships we have had to get to the show 45 minutes early for a seat, these shows were rarely full. Perhaps that owed to many passengers having already seen some of the shows, as they had been on board for 16 days. Finally, the ship’s library is impressive, and the side rooms for cards or game-playing were always in use.
Food - While we consider ourselves somewhat discriminating diners, we are far from Food Channel devotees, and so we found the food very good in all venues. While we did not try The Pinnacle, we heard excellent comments. We had assigned dining and found the menu offerings plentiful and tasty. The Lido was well-run with several different food stations. I loved the pasta bar, but the wait there is lengthy as the chef has you select your pasta, then he measures it, quickly boils it, sautés it in oil and garlic (yum), and finally has you select your sauce. The Asian area had quite the sushi selection, although I cannot speak to its authenticity or flavor. We tried the Caneletto – the Italian section of the Lido (at night) – once. The white tablecloths, attentive service, and a fine menu make it a cut above The Lido and equal to the dining room but at no additional charge (you do need to make reservations though). This was a nice (and delicious) change.
Activities - HAL provided drinks and appetizers for our Meet ’n Greet – thanks to Marnie, who organized everything. We met several couples we already felt we knew from the Roll Call, dining with two and going on excursions with others. We felt the people made our cruise even more wonderful. While HAL’s median age is certainly older than what we’ve experienced on other lines, we liked the quieter atmosphere that clientele brought with it but were mildly disappointed in the line-up of activities. We did not find there to be as many as we’ve had before, and the “down time” (upwards of 90 minutes) between dinner and the show was difficult to “kill” if you didn’t drink or gamble. Still, the activities we participated in – line dancing, flower arranging, galley tour, cooking demos, trivia, port talks (Tom is wonderful – he gives the port’s history, things to do, and places to shop, but the shopping is held to quite the minimum; we particularly appreciated his discussion of the ship’s excursions alongside ways to do them on your own without the usual threats of “the ship will leave without you.”), movies, and the like were enjoyable. The shows were good – the usual singing and dancing shows, comedian (he also juggled and rode a unicycle – he was hysterical), and musicians/singers. Plenty of opportunities exist around the ship in the evening to listen to music and/or dance.
Disembarkation – We requested expedited disembarkation, so we carried our own bags off. One announcement is made, that The Process has begun, and thereafter, passengers can stay n their room and just leave when their time slot has arrived. We thought that worked extremely well. We had pre-arranged a cab for 8 of us (Roma Cabs, 35 euros per couple) back to the airport. We were very sad to be leaving the ship!
Ports of Call – I am a compulsive researcher, and the two of us are ready and willing to try do-it-yourself excursions. With time and patience, reading the posts on the Europe/Mediterranean message boards here and on Trip Advisor, buying or checking out a guide book or two, you too can plan your own excursions for a fraction of what the ship will charge. However, I do understand that my personality and choices are not everyone’s, so please don’t consider this section a condemnation of ship excursions. Do what you’re comfortable with.
While we wanted to try local foods, we also wanted to maximize our time in the ports, so frequently we packed snacks (granola bars, nuts, dried fruit) and picked up something small locally to eat. Occasionally, we opted for a restaurant meal, but we also made use of small grocery stores and local bakeries.
I tried to learn a few words for each port, and shop keepers generally responded well to my attempts to say hello, thank you, and goodbye in their language. We found English spoken everywhere, but I still wanted to try!
Rome - Since Rome is not technically a port stop on this ten-day cruise, I won’t go into what we did for 3 days in Rome, but if you have specific questions, please ask or email (djkiser@gmail.com).
Dubrovnik – Our aim here was to walk the wall and wonder the old city afterwards. While euros were accepted at the wall, we did not know if they would be at the monastery or if we chose to buy something from a local market, so we exchanged a small amount of euros for kuna at the building immediately outside the port gate. Following information we found on these boards, we took the local bus (look for 1A, 1B, or 8; you don’t have to walk far) to the Pile Gate; the conductor took our money (10 kuna one way), gave us change, and validated our ticket. The other passengers were helpful since we weren’t sure when that stop would occur. Ours was the only ship in port, and we were having some light rain that morning, so the walls were not crowded. We paid 64 kuna (8 euros) each to walk the wall, and this was an absolutely charming walk. While there are plenty of stairs, we did not find them strenuous, and the views of the red-roofed buildings, narrow alleyways, and the sea made for gorgeous photos. Once we completed the circuit, we went into the town and visited the Franciscan Monastery (20 kuna each). The cloister is peaceful, and the pharmacy there (no longer used) is the oldest in Europe (I believe). We strolled down The Stradun and followed a walking tour I printed from the internet. “DubrovnikTravelady” on these boards is a wealth of information, and we found Dubrovnik completely charming. A few souvenirs and a gelato later, we managed to spend the last of our kunas. The day had turned pleasant, so we walked back to the ship.
Corfu – Before the cruise, I debated our transportation possibilities as we wanted to do more than explore Corfu Town. The local bus was an option, but I knew it would stop frequently. We considered renting a car, but my husband said he couldn’t enjoy the scenery if he were driving. Taxis might have worked – take one to Paleokastritsa Beach and ask for it to return later. The best information I could find indicated a one-way cab to the beach would be 35 euros. I then Googled “Corfu taxi tours,” emailed two, and one contacted me quickly. For 40 euros an hour per cab (not person), minimum 3 hours, they offered several itineraries, and splitting the cost with another couple seemed a good option – we wouldn’t have to drive, and we’d see more than if we had opted for a taxi or bus. We could not have been happier. We requested (by email) a 3-hour tour only, and Spiros (corfutaxitours) drove us way up into the hills of Corfu, stopping for magnificent vista after magnificent vista, giving us history lessons and cultural information all along the way. We overlooked the grottos, cliffs, and turquoise water of Paleo. Beach before we ever got there, and doing that made me realize how much we would have missed had we just hailed a cab for the direct route. At the beach, my husband just had to feel the Mediterranean water, and then Spiros also took us to the monastery which offers more spectacular views from the courtyard. At the end of our 3 hours, Spiros took us to the Esplanade, the center of Old Corfu, stopped the cab, gave us some directions of things to see, and left us. Splitting the 120 euros in half, we also tipped him. We then ate a lunch of Greek salad and a souvlaki platter near the Liston – sitting under some trees. Following a walking tour I had photocopied from Fodor’s or Frommer’s, we set off to explore Corfu Town, another delightful few hours. The place really is like Venice Without the Canals – you’ll see charming alleyway after alleyway in the Campiello. You’ll also find plenty of shops – jewelry and anything made from kumquats and olive oil! If you do not take an island tour, then I highly recommend spending the 4 euros to walk around the large fort near the Esplanade. You’ll get magnificent views of the sea and island. We continued to have lovely weather (sun and high 60s), so we walked back to the ship, an easy 25-30 minutes.
Olympia – Here we did rent a car. Again using these boards, I realized a taxi would be costly, the ship’s excursion was expensive, and while there is a train, our limited port stay did not make that an alternative we were comfortable with, as we’d have to be sure to see all of Olympia in 2 hours to make the return train. Plus, the drive to Olympia is along something of an interstate highway, so my husband wouldn’t be missing scenery! The Katakalon rental agency is across the street from the port. We had reserved a car ahead of time, but another couple we knew were able to get a car that very morning. We paid 45 euros (another couple shared the cost with us), and that included all insurance and unlimited mileage. After the trip, we put eight euros of gas in it. The road to Olympia was somewhat easy to find, although the rental agency could have had a clearer map. I hate it when someone says, “you can’t miss it.” Uh, yes we can. Once on the main road, there were signs to Olympia, which were recognizable even in Greek! We had a very hard time figuring out where to park, so we just parked on a side street (didn’t get ticketed or towed!), walked to the ticket office, paid 9 euros each for the ruins and museum, and off we went. While the ruins do have some signs, I also used a more complete guide I printed from the internet. Many on these message boards said they did not like Olympia, felt they had to use their imagination too much to reconstruct ruins, and might as well have stayed on the ship. Thus, I was expecting little more than a pile of rubble. Not so. There are plenty of ruins, and yes, you do have to imagine reconstruction (signs help), but they are far from a pile of rubble. The site is larger than I thought, and with the redbud trees blooming, it was beautiful. We were glad we did not stay on the ship. The museum is just large enough to not be overwhelming. There is a reconstructed site plan (very helpful – should have come here first!), and different rooms contain different statues and friezes. They are amazing. We picked up the car at 7:30am for the 45-minute drive and started our return at noon since we had a 2pm sailaway. That was plenty of time. We wandered into a few shops in Katakolon, bought tzatziki sauce from a grocer and fresh pita bread from a takeaway food stand to eat in the Lido, then boarded the ship.
Santorini – This was by far our favorite port. Santorini is as picturesque as all the postcards, paintings, and posters show it to be with the white-washed cliff dwellings and blue-domed churches. From a distance, you’d think snow was on the caldera rim. You will take your most pictures here; at every turn, you think, “I just have to capture this view.” We were fortunate to be the only ship in port and to have 13 hours here. We opted to take the cable car up (4 euros one way; you cannot buy a round-trip ticket on site) and walked right on. Donkeys cost 5 euros. We followed directions I obtained from TripAdvisor and started the 6-mile walk to Oia from Fira. The walk follows the rim of the caldera almost the entire way – you are not hiking along the street! You get to see Fira, the ocean, and then Oia the whole time. It is a stunningly beautiful walk. We made the hike in 3 hours, and we did not aim to break any records; in fact, we stopped twice – once for a snack and once for a lunch we had packed (items we’d picked up at a grocer). While I wouldn’t recommend this hike in the summer, for I imagine the heat could be brutal, we started off with sweaters, owing to the 65 degrees and a breeze. It wasn’t long, however, before we took them off. If you want to take this walk, and I highly recommend it, when you leave the cable car exitway, turn right (turn left if you walked up or took a donkey), and you’ll go to the wide, stoned, stepped sidewalk where people will likely be gaping at the view. Follow that pathway right; you’ll know you’re on the right way when you soon see a sign for Nomikos Center embedded in the wall on your right. In 10 minutes, you’ll reach the small village of Firostephani, and in another 15 minutes, you’ll come to Imerovigli which you’ll recognize by the huge rock off to your left and a pathway to it, if you want some additional hiking (we did not). After this, you will walk through many hotels – your pathway is also part of theirs. Many times, though, you will be isolated on the trail. We saw no one taking the path as we hiked, but as we approached Oia, a dozen hikers were coming from there. Once in Oia, we wandered streets, took in more views, shopped a little, found a fantastic bakery near the bus stop/taxi square (amazing baklava selection), and eventually boarded the local bus back to Fira. This bus runs only every 2 hours, so be there early, and have an alternate plan if you miss it or if it is over-crowded (as it was when we took it). Taxis, I am sure, are available, but I have no idea of the cost. If we hadn’t hiked over, we probably would have taken the steep 200 stairs or so down to Amoudi Port and small beach. If your ship allows it, consider staying in Oia for the sunset, reputedly amazing. Our ship left at 9pm, so we could not see an 8pm sunset and possibly make it back to the ship. Once the bus let us off in Fira, we wandered that town’s streets and stores as well. If you like coffee, try a coffee frappe. Mine was seriously strong, but delicious, so I went back after finishing about a third of it and asked for some water to dilute it. She was most accommodating and understanding!! “I make it strong.” Fortified by “drink,” we decided to walk down the steps to the ship. We did not have to dodge donkey droppings, as so many posters had warned, and we encountered very few donkeys, probably because we were going down so late. We caught the sunset from the ship, and as we sailed away, many of us moved to the other side of the ship and gazed in awe at the twinkling lights from Fira and Oia.
Ephesus – This port lived up to its reputation of ”you can’t miss Ephesus.” The ruins are remarkably well excavated, and the Terrace Houses simply take your breath away. Whatever tour you take, make sure it includes these; they are the highlight, far and away. After reading scores of recommendations of tour groups on these boards, we chose EKOL, mostly because they ran a buy one/get second half off promo back in Nov./Dec. We had a good guide, saw a lot, and learned a lot. We were back at the ship with enough time to eat lunch on board and go into Kusadasi. First, we turnd right from the ship area and walked the causeway to Pigeon Island. You’ll likely see this island as you come into port – it has a large castle/fort atop it. Views are nice, and the gardens are lovely to walk through, and there’s a café if you’re interested. Then we got directions to “old” Kusadasi which took us along a shop-lined and pedestrian main street. Shop keepers are very aggressive here. I understand that is their culture, but that aggressiveness and the whole bargaining thing are uncomfortable to us. We tried to find the old main market and the ancient Kaleici neighborhood but did not have much luck. Or, we were there and didn’t know it!
Athens – We had another long port day, so we were off the ship quickly and walked the 30 minutes to the Metro station. This is a long (but not difficult) walk, but the Metro is efficient and extremely cheap. It’s just not the easiest place to find. We bought the all-day 3 euro pass, but one-way tickets cost .80 euro to 1.20 euro. I’d read that this line is noted for pickpockets, but we didn’t even face many crowds. We got off at Monastiraki, started walking toward the Acropolis (“you can’t miss it”!!), and bought our combo 12 euro ticket at the Roman Agora. Be sure, at each venue, to request the brochure, and don’t lose your ticket as a ticket taker will tear off a stub at each venue. While we beat many tour buses to the Acropolis, we were far from alone. Have a good guidebook with you or print out information from Rick Steves’ website so you know what you’re looking at; I think that helps. The scaffolding and enormous crane do take away some of the ambiance, but the Acropolis is still overwhelming. We walked down the steps and then up the adjacent Areopagus, from which Paul preached. You can maneuver the sometimes-slippery marble steps, or there is a metal staircase off to the side. I took the stairs down. Then we went around the other side of the Acropolis to enter the Theater of Dionysus. I found it ironic if not comical that guards blow whistles at you if you lean against or sit on marble on the Acropolis, and yet in this theater, which dates to the 4th century BC too, you can walk around and sit just about anywhere you please! I teach Oedipus Rex, so I found it amazing to envision it being performed first here. Then we crossed the busy street to see the Temple of Zeus – just stand next to those 56’ columns to feel pretty small.
By now we had skirted the Plaka, and I regret not walking through there as well as the Anafiotika. However, at least we saw it from atop the Acropolis. Anyway, from Zeus, we walked to Syntagma Square, passing alongside the Nat’l Gardens which looked gorgeous. Had an Italian man not told us we might get lost if we walked in the gardens on our way to Syntagma, we would have gone inside. We should have anyway. We caught the Changing of the Guard at Syntagma (every hour), an event full of pomp and circumstance. I’m not sure it was a good use of our limited time, however; we should have wandered the Plaka instead. We took the Metro at Syntagma (be sure to send a few minutes looking at all the ruins uncovered while this Metro stop was being built – it’s like a mini-museum in there!) to Monastiraki to have lunch. In Monastiraki Square, find Mitropolis Street. Where it intersects with the square, you should be able to find a corner, outdoor gyro stand. There will probably also be a long line of customers. For 1.80 euro, you can get a fantastic lamb, chicken, or beef gyro, but you’ll have to sit on a step or wall to enjoy it. We had been hustled into the restaurant owned by the gyro stand, and the gyro in there was over 8 euros. The owner wasn’t too happy we left, but we still patronized his place – just outside.
Fortified by food now, we went onto more antiquities – my accommodating husband was ever so glad we ran out of time before the Nat’l Archaeological Museum. We saw the Roman Agora with its impressive Tower of the Winds and then the much larger ancient Agora. Again, I suggest reading the brochure the ticket taker gives you (if asked), or take some notes from a guidebook before you leave. It really does help make the places come alive. The ancient Agora has the impressively large and intact Temple of Hephaestus. We were in Athens on a Sunday when I think every living being in the city converges in outdoor cafes and streets. We fought many crowds – hold onto your purse, guard your wallet, or wear a money belt. By now, we were antiquitied-out and headed back to the Metro. I had planned to visit the museum, but we simply did not have enough time. I think the New Acropolis Museum will finally open in June; from what I have read, it is not to be missed. Check their website: http://www.newacropolismuseum.gr/eng/
You can catch the local bus once you’re off the Piraeus Metro stop if you don’t want to walk back to the ship. Unfortunately, now I cannot remember the number of that bus, but your travel director should have it on the ship, and if you bought the 3 euro Metro pass, buses are included.
Messina – This port also posed some transportation problems for us. From my reading on these boards and from some other resources, it seemed Taormina was the place to go. I had read Messina did not have much to offer besides the astronomical clock, but we had friends on the ship who found Messina offered plenty. Posters on TripAdvisor said driving to Taormina was doable, but then a Sicilian native cautioned me about the crazy drivers. Well, she was right. I don’t think we would have made it out of the port area, much less found our way to Taormina. And if we had, my husband probably would have needed a straight jacket by then. The ship offered a shuttle to Taormina but only allowed a two-hour stay. We finally got together with 6 others from our Roll Call and booked a 5 hour tour with Sicily Life. As with the Corfu tour, we got to see a great deal of the island, learn some history and culture, and see more than just Taormina. We went to the charming little town of Casteloma, saw an Arab castle and plenty of beautiful views before arriving in Taormina. Our guide gave us two hours there. After wandering more quaint streets (I never did tire of looking up little alleyways and taking photos) and shopping a little, we went to the Public Gardens. (We’d seen the ancient theaters at the Acropolis so didn’t care to tour Taormina’s theater; plus, we had seen it from the vistas our driver took us to.) The gardens are an easy walk from the town center and are beautiful with views of the sea. We’d purchased some snacks in the town and ate a lunch overlooking the water. Our driver showed us the cathedral and clock tower in Messina before returning us to our ship. This was our most expensive excursion – 45.50 euros each, and that was with 8 people – no doubt because of the distance to Taormina and the 4-5 hours’ length. Sicily was more lovely than I expected; I thought it would be a let-down after the Greek islands, but it was not. Do try cannoli here; it is their specialty.
If I can answer any questions, ask them here, or feel free to email me at djkiser@gmail.com As you can tell, we had a spectacular cruise and highly recommend this itinerary as well as Holland America and especially the Noordam
As way of introduction, my husband (59) and I (56) are new to Holland America and a European cruise but not new to cruising. This was a retirement celebration cruise for us. We loved HAL and especially the beautiful Noordam. I will post my complete review here but will also include my reviews of the ports of call in the Europe/Mediterranean section of these message boards as well. So if you go over there, see my review and think you’re reading double, you are!
Pre-Cruise - We flew into Rome 3 days before our cruise, which left April 19, and spent those days walking all over Rome, seeing all the major sites . . . and then some. Our hotel (Hotel Italia Roma) was wonderful – a small gem near Termini Station – which we found by reading scads of reviews on TripAdvisor. We always felt safe near our hotel, and perhaps because we were well-prepared with money belts, we never felt threatened by pickpockets at any place we visited in Rome. Indeed, we never saw but one “gypsy child.” I’m not saying pickpockets are not out yet; I am saying to be prepared. We wore money belts, I did not carry a purse, and my husband carried a book bag satchel with snacks, antibacterial wipes, Kleenex, things that didn’t matter if they were lifted. Do be careful; be aware of your surroundings.
Train to the Port - On Sunday morning, the 19th, we bought tickets at Termini Train Station for the ride to Civitavecchia. The ticket agent automatically (I guess) assumed we wanted the express train, so we paid 17 euros (for two) when the regional train would gave been significantly less. However, we did arrive quicker and did get assigned seating in an enclosed car (seating for six, with racks above for luggage), and as we surveyed the train, a Termini employee helped us find the right car and lifted our baggage into those racks. We did tip him. We knew we had one stop before ours, and we knew when our train should arrive in Civitavecchia, so ten minutes prior, we began staging our luggage near the exit door. We did have two flights of stairs to negotiate, but they were both short staircases. We met two other couples emerging from the stairs, realized we were all going to the Noordam, so we shared a cab. Had it not been a steady rain, we would have done the walk to the port that others on these message boards talk about. The cab ride cost us five euros each, and he delivered us directly to the ship. We did not have to use the port shuttle bus.
Embarkation and Stateroom - Embarkation was the easiest we have ever experienced. Much of that was a result of 650 of the Noordam’s 1,900 passengers remaining onboard from the previous cruise. We 3 couples were the only ones in the building, so we breezed through security and check-in, smiled quickly for the photographer, and found our cabin. We had booked an inside guarantee almost nine months ahead, and even 5 days before we sailed, we still did not have a room assignment. We were thrilled to discover we had been upgraded to an unobstructed ocean view room on the first floor – thank you, HAL!!! That location meant we did not feel as much of the ship’s movement during the last 2 rough sea days, but it also meant (we were in room 1008, very close to the front of the ship – actually, mere steps from the Vista Lounge!) we heard quite a bit of engine noise. I say “engine”; we were never sure. Whatever it was, it came frequently and loudly, but not so annoying as we could not sleep. Still, I would avoid this area of the ship in the future.
The cabin was spacious enough; we had the bed as well as a couch and table. We missed having a desk or bureau with drawers; the desk had two shelves hidden by a door The 3 closets were quite enough for us, but we felt crowded at times since the closets are directly across from the bathroom, which also was spacious. We loved the large, plush bath towels; the Elemis bath products; the nice bathrobes; and the elegant bedding. Our room steward was speedy and incredibly unobtrusive. The 3 times we did see him, he called us by name. I think that’s amazing. He gave us a different towel animal each evening, straightened up whatever we had left out, and always refreshed the fruit basket.
The Noordam - The ship is lovely. Fresh flowers are everywhere, large bonsai plants adorn each elevator waiting area, and the dining room uses beautiful bone china. We found the photographers to be available but never pushy – to wit, they appeared at the port gangplank only once or twice. Very few announcements are made, and the silent disembarkation was new to us – how wonderful!! The theater has very few obstructed seats, and whereas on other ships we have had to get to the show 45 minutes early for a seat, these shows were rarely full. Perhaps that owed to many passengers having already seen some of the shows, as they had been on board for 16 days. Finally, the ship’s library is impressive, and the side rooms for cards or game-playing were always in use.
Food - While we consider ourselves somewhat discriminating diners, we are far from Food Channel devotees, and so we found the food very good in all venues. While we did not try The Pinnacle, we heard excellent comments. We had assigned dining and found the menu offerings plentiful and tasty. The Lido was well-run with several different food stations. I loved the pasta bar, but the wait there is lengthy as the chef has you select your pasta, then he measures it, quickly boils it, sautés it in oil and garlic (yum), and finally has you select your sauce. The Asian area had quite the sushi selection, although I cannot speak to its authenticity or flavor. We tried the Caneletto – the Italian section of the Lido (at night) – once. The white tablecloths, attentive service, and a fine menu make it a cut above The Lido and equal to the dining room but at no additional charge (you do need to make reservations though). This was a nice (and delicious) change.
Activities - HAL provided drinks and appetizers for our Meet ’n Greet – thanks to Marnie, who organized everything. We met several couples we already felt we knew from the Roll Call, dining with two and going on excursions with others. We felt the people made our cruise even more wonderful. While HAL’s median age is certainly older than what we’ve experienced on other lines, we liked the quieter atmosphere that clientele brought with it but were mildly disappointed in the line-up of activities. We did not find there to be as many as we’ve had before, and the “down time” (upwards of 90 minutes) between dinner and the show was difficult to “kill” if you didn’t drink or gamble. Still, the activities we participated in – line dancing, flower arranging, galley tour, cooking demos, trivia, port talks (Tom is wonderful – he gives the port’s history, things to do, and places to shop, but the shopping is held to quite the minimum; we particularly appreciated his discussion of the ship’s excursions alongside ways to do them on your own without the usual threats of “the ship will leave without you.”), movies, and the like were enjoyable. The shows were good – the usual singing and dancing shows, comedian (he also juggled and rode a unicycle – he was hysterical), and musicians/singers. Plenty of opportunities exist around the ship in the evening to listen to music and/or dance.
Disembarkation – We requested expedited disembarkation, so we carried our own bags off. One announcement is made, that The Process has begun, and thereafter, passengers can stay n their room and just leave when their time slot has arrived. We thought that worked extremely well. We had pre-arranged a cab for 8 of us (Roma Cabs, 35 euros per couple) back to the airport. We were very sad to be leaving the ship!
Ports of Call – I am a compulsive researcher, and the two of us are ready and willing to try do-it-yourself excursions. With time and patience, reading the posts on the Europe/Mediterranean message boards here and on Trip Advisor, buying or checking out a guide book or two, you too can plan your own excursions for a fraction of what the ship will charge. However, I do understand that my personality and choices are not everyone’s, so please don’t consider this section a condemnation of ship excursions. Do what you’re comfortable with.
While we wanted to try local foods, we also wanted to maximize our time in the ports, so frequently we packed snacks (granola bars, nuts, dried fruit) and picked up something small locally to eat. Occasionally, we opted for a restaurant meal, but we also made use of small grocery stores and local bakeries.
I tried to learn a few words for each port, and shop keepers generally responded well to my attempts to say hello, thank you, and goodbye in their language. We found English spoken everywhere, but I still wanted to try!
Rome - Since Rome is not technically a port stop on this ten-day cruise, I won’t go into what we did for 3 days in Rome, but if you have specific questions, please ask or email (djkiser@gmail.com).
Dubrovnik – Our aim here was to walk the wall and wonder the old city afterwards. While euros were accepted at the wall, we did not know if they would be at the monastery or if we chose to buy something from a local market, so we exchanged a small amount of euros for kuna at the building immediately outside the port gate. Following information we found on these boards, we took the local bus (look for 1A, 1B, or 8; you don’t have to walk far) to the Pile Gate; the conductor took our money (10 kuna one way), gave us change, and validated our ticket. The other passengers were helpful since we weren’t sure when that stop would occur. Ours was the only ship in port, and we were having some light rain that morning, so the walls were not crowded. We paid 64 kuna (8 euros) each to walk the wall, and this was an absolutely charming walk. While there are plenty of stairs, we did not find them strenuous, and the views of the red-roofed buildings, narrow alleyways, and the sea made for gorgeous photos. Once we completed the circuit, we went into the town and visited the Franciscan Monastery (20 kuna each). The cloister is peaceful, and the pharmacy there (no longer used) is the oldest in Europe (I believe). We strolled down The Stradun and followed a walking tour I printed from the internet. “DubrovnikTravelady” on these boards is a wealth of information, and we found Dubrovnik completely charming. A few souvenirs and a gelato later, we managed to spend the last of our kunas. The day had turned pleasant, so we walked back to the ship.
Corfu – Before the cruise, I debated our transportation possibilities as we wanted to do more than explore Corfu Town. The local bus was an option, but I knew it would stop frequently. We considered renting a car, but my husband said he couldn’t enjoy the scenery if he were driving. Taxis might have worked – take one to Paleokastritsa Beach and ask for it to return later. The best information I could find indicated a one-way cab to the beach would be 35 euros. I then Googled “Corfu taxi tours,” emailed two, and one contacted me quickly. For 40 euros an hour per cab (not person), minimum 3 hours, they offered several itineraries, and splitting the cost with another couple seemed a good option – we wouldn’t have to drive, and we’d see more than if we had opted for a taxi or bus. We could not have been happier. We requested (by email) a 3-hour tour only, and Spiros (corfutaxitours) drove us way up into the hills of Corfu, stopping for magnificent vista after magnificent vista, giving us history lessons and cultural information all along the way. We overlooked the grottos, cliffs, and turquoise water of Paleo. Beach before we ever got there, and doing that made me realize how much we would have missed had we just hailed a cab for the direct route. At the beach, my husband just had to feel the Mediterranean water, and then Spiros also took us to the monastery which offers more spectacular views from the courtyard. At the end of our 3 hours, Spiros took us to the Esplanade, the center of Old Corfu, stopped the cab, gave us some directions of things to see, and left us. Splitting the 120 euros in half, we also tipped him. We then ate a lunch of Greek salad and a souvlaki platter near the Liston – sitting under some trees. Following a walking tour I had photocopied from Fodor’s or Frommer’s, we set off to explore Corfu Town, another delightful few hours. The place really is like Venice Without the Canals – you’ll see charming alleyway after alleyway in the Campiello. You’ll also find plenty of shops – jewelry and anything made from kumquats and olive oil! If you do not take an island tour, then I highly recommend spending the 4 euros to walk around the large fort near the Esplanade. You’ll get magnificent views of the sea and island. We continued to have lovely weather (sun and high 60s), so we walked back to the ship, an easy 25-30 minutes.
Olympia – Here we did rent a car. Again using these boards, I realized a taxi would be costly, the ship’s excursion was expensive, and while there is a train, our limited port stay did not make that an alternative we were comfortable with, as we’d have to be sure to see all of Olympia in 2 hours to make the return train. Plus, the drive to Olympia is along something of an interstate highway, so my husband wouldn’t be missing scenery! The Katakalon rental agency is across the street from the port. We had reserved a car ahead of time, but another couple we knew were able to get a car that very morning. We paid 45 euros (another couple shared the cost with us), and that included all insurance and unlimited mileage. After the trip, we put eight euros of gas in it. The road to Olympia was somewhat easy to find, although the rental agency could have had a clearer map. I hate it when someone says, “you can’t miss it.” Uh, yes we can. Once on the main road, there were signs to Olympia, which were recognizable even in Greek! We had a very hard time figuring out where to park, so we just parked on a side street (didn’t get ticketed or towed!), walked to the ticket office, paid 9 euros each for the ruins and museum, and off we went. While the ruins do have some signs, I also used a more complete guide I printed from the internet. Many on these message boards said they did not like Olympia, felt they had to use their imagination too much to reconstruct ruins, and might as well have stayed on the ship. Thus, I was expecting little more than a pile of rubble. Not so. There are plenty of ruins, and yes, you do have to imagine reconstruction (signs help), but they are far from a pile of rubble. The site is larger than I thought, and with the redbud trees blooming, it was beautiful. We were glad we did not stay on the ship. The museum is just large enough to not be overwhelming. There is a reconstructed site plan (very helpful – should have come here first!), and different rooms contain different statues and friezes. They are amazing. We picked up the car at 7:30am for the 45-minute drive and started our return at noon since we had a 2pm sailaway. That was plenty of time. We wandered into a few shops in Katakolon, bought tzatziki sauce from a grocer and fresh pita bread from a takeaway food stand to eat in the Lido, then boarded the ship.
Santorini – This was by far our favorite port. Santorini is as picturesque as all the postcards, paintings, and posters show it to be with the white-washed cliff dwellings and blue-domed churches. From a distance, you’d think snow was on the caldera rim. You will take your most pictures here; at every turn, you think, “I just have to capture this view.” We were fortunate to be the only ship in port and to have 13 hours here. We opted to take the cable car up (4 euros one way; you cannot buy a round-trip ticket on site) and walked right on. Donkeys cost 5 euros. We followed directions I obtained from TripAdvisor and started the 6-mile walk to Oia from Fira. The walk follows the rim of the caldera almost the entire way – you are not hiking along the street! You get to see Fira, the ocean, and then Oia the whole time. It is a stunningly beautiful walk. We made the hike in 3 hours, and we did not aim to break any records; in fact, we stopped twice – once for a snack and once for a lunch we had packed (items we’d picked up at a grocer). While I wouldn’t recommend this hike in the summer, for I imagine the heat could be brutal, we started off with sweaters, owing to the 65 degrees and a breeze. It wasn’t long, however, before we took them off. If you want to take this walk, and I highly recommend it, when you leave the cable car exitway, turn right (turn left if you walked up or took a donkey), and you’ll go to the wide, stoned, stepped sidewalk where people will likely be gaping at the view. Follow that pathway right; you’ll know you’re on the right way when you soon see a sign for Nomikos Center embedded in the wall on your right. In 10 minutes, you’ll reach the small village of Firostephani, and in another 15 minutes, you’ll come to Imerovigli which you’ll recognize by the huge rock off to your left and a pathway to it, if you want some additional hiking (we did not). After this, you will walk through many hotels – your pathway is also part of theirs. Many times, though, you will be isolated on the trail. We saw no one taking the path as we hiked, but as we approached Oia, a dozen hikers were coming from there. Once in Oia, we wandered streets, took in more views, shopped a little, found a fantastic bakery near the bus stop/taxi square (amazing baklava selection), and eventually boarded the local bus back to Fira. This bus runs only every 2 hours, so be there early, and have an alternate plan if you miss it or if it is over-crowded (as it was when we took it). Taxis, I am sure, are available, but I have no idea of the cost. If we hadn’t hiked over, we probably would have taken the steep 200 stairs or so down to Amoudi Port and small beach. If your ship allows it, consider staying in Oia for the sunset, reputedly amazing. Our ship left at 9pm, so we could not see an 8pm sunset and possibly make it back to the ship. Once the bus let us off in Fira, we wandered that town’s streets and stores as well. If you like coffee, try a coffee frappe. Mine was seriously strong, but delicious, so I went back after finishing about a third of it and asked for some water to dilute it. She was most accommodating and understanding!! “I make it strong.” Fortified by “drink,” we decided to walk down the steps to the ship. We did not have to dodge donkey droppings, as so many posters had warned, and we encountered very few donkeys, probably because we were going down so late. We caught the sunset from the ship, and as we sailed away, many of us moved to the other side of the ship and gazed in awe at the twinkling lights from Fira and Oia.
Ephesus – This port lived up to its reputation of ”you can’t miss Ephesus.” The ruins are remarkably well excavated, and the Terrace Houses simply take your breath away. Whatever tour you take, make sure it includes these; they are the highlight, far and away. After reading scores of recommendations of tour groups on these boards, we chose EKOL, mostly because they ran a buy one/get second half off promo back in Nov./Dec. We had a good guide, saw a lot, and learned a lot. We were back at the ship with enough time to eat lunch on board and go into Kusadasi. First, we turnd right from the ship area and walked the causeway to Pigeon Island. You’ll likely see this island as you come into port – it has a large castle/fort atop it. Views are nice, and the gardens are lovely to walk through, and there’s a café if you’re interested. Then we got directions to “old” Kusadasi which took us along a shop-lined and pedestrian main street. Shop keepers are very aggressive here. I understand that is their culture, but that aggressiveness and the whole bargaining thing are uncomfortable to us. We tried to find the old main market and the ancient Kaleici neighborhood but did not have much luck. Or, we were there and didn’t know it!
Athens – We had another long port day, so we were off the ship quickly and walked the 30 minutes to the Metro station. This is a long (but not difficult) walk, but the Metro is efficient and extremely cheap. It’s just not the easiest place to find. We bought the all-day 3 euro pass, but one-way tickets cost .80 euro to 1.20 euro. I’d read that this line is noted for pickpockets, but we didn’t even face many crowds. We got off at Monastiraki, started walking toward the Acropolis (“you can’t miss it”!!), and bought our combo 12 euro ticket at the Roman Agora. Be sure, at each venue, to request the brochure, and don’t lose your ticket as a ticket taker will tear off a stub at each venue. While we beat many tour buses to the Acropolis, we were far from alone. Have a good guidebook with you or print out information from Rick Steves’ website so you know what you’re looking at; I think that helps. The scaffolding and enormous crane do take away some of the ambiance, but the Acropolis is still overwhelming. We walked down the steps and then up the adjacent Areopagus, from which Paul preached. You can maneuver the sometimes-slippery marble steps, or there is a metal staircase off to the side. I took the stairs down. Then we went around the other side of the Acropolis to enter the Theater of Dionysus. I found it ironic if not comical that guards blow whistles at you if you lean against or sit on marble on the Acropolis, and yet in this theater, which dates to the 4th century BC too, you can walk around and sit just about anywhere you please! I teach Oedipus Rex, so I found it amazing to envision it being performed first here. Then we crossed the busy street to see the Temple of Zeus – just stand next to those 56’ columns to feel pretty small.
By now we had skirted the Plaka, and I regret not walking through there as well as the Anafiotika. However, at least we saw it from atop the Acropolis. Anyway, from Zeus, we walked to Syntagma Square, passing alongside the Nat’l Gardens which looked gorgeous. Had an Italian man not told us we might get lost if we walked in the gardens on our way to Syntagma, we would have gone inside. We should have anyway. We caught the Changing of the Guard at Syntagma (every hour), an event full of pomp and circumstance. I’m not sure it was a good use of our limited time, however; we should have wandered the Plaka instead. We took the Metro at Syntagma (be sure to send a few minutes looking at all the ruins uncovered while this Metro stop was being built – it’s like a mini-museum in there!) to Monastiraki to have lunch. In Monastiraki Square, find Mitropolis Street. Where it intersects with the square, you should be able to find a corner, outdoor gyro stand. There will probably also be a long line of customers. For 1.80 euro, you can get a fantastic lamb, chicken, or beef gyro, but you’ll have to sit on a step or wall to enjoy it. We had been hustled into the restaurant owned by the gyro stand, and the gyro in there was over 8 euros. The owner wasn’t too happy we left, but we still patronized his place – just outside.
Fortified by food now, we went onto more antiquities – my accommodating husband was ever so glad we ran out of time before the Nat’l Archaeological Museum. We saw the Roman Agora with its impressive Tower of the Winds and then the much larger ancient Agora. Again, I suggest reading the brochure the ticket taker gives you (if asked), or take some notes from a guidebook before you leave. It really does help make the places come alive. The ancient Agora has the impressively large and intact Temple of Hephaestus. We were in Athens on a Sunday when I think every living being in the city converges in outdoor cafes and streets. We fought many crowds – hold onto your purse, guard your wallet, or wear a money belt. By now, we were antiquitied-out and headed back to the Metro. I had planned to visit the museum, but we simply did not have enough time. I think the New Acropolis Museum will finally open in June; from what I have read, it is not to be missed. Check their website: http://www.newacropolismuseum.gr/eng/
You can catch the local bus once you’re off the Piraeus Metro stop if you don’t want to walk back to the ship. Unfortunately, now I cannot remember the number of that bus, but your travel director should have it on the ship, and if you bought the 3 euro Metro pass, buses are included.
Messina – This port also posed some transportation problems for us. From my reading on these boards and from some other resources, it seemed Taormina was the place to go. I had read Messina did not have much to offer besides the astronomical clock, but we had friends on the ship who found Messina offered plenty. Posters on TripAdvisor said driving to Taormina was doable, but then a Sicilian native cautioned me about the crazy drivers. Well, she was right. I don’t think we would have made it out of the port area, much less found our way to Taormina. And if we had, my husband probably would have needed a straight jacket by then. The ship offered a shuttle to Taormina but only allowed a two-hour stay. We finally got together with 6 others from our Roll Call and booked a 5 hour tour with Sicily Life. As with the Corfu tour, we got to see a great deal of the island, learn some history and culture, and see more than just Taormina. We went to the charming little town of Casteloma, saw an Arab castle and plenty of beautiful views before arriving in Taormina. Our guide gave us two hours there. After wandering more quaint streets (I never did tire of looking up little alleyways and taking photos) and shopping a little, we went to the Public Gardens. (We’d seen the ancient theaters at the Acropolis so didn’t care to tour Taormina’s theater; plus, we had seen it from the vistas our driver took us to.) The gardens are an easy walk from the town center and are beautiful with views of the sea. We’d purchased some snacks in the town and ate a lunch overlooking the water. Our driver showed us the cathedral and clock tower in Messina before returning us to our ship. This was our most expensive excursion – 45.50 euros each, and that was with 8 people – no doubt because of the distance to Taormina and the 4-5 hours’ length. Sicily was more lovely than I expected; I thought it would be a let-down after the Greek islands, but it was not. Do try cannoli here; it is their specialty.
If I can answer any questions, ask them here, or feel free to email me at djkiser@gmail.com As you can tell, we had a spectacular cruise and highly recommend this itinerary as well as Holland America and especially the Noordam