anaco_angler

Yes, the weather will be much different from your Australian summer weather, but February should have more hours of daylight than December. I think you will appreciate that. Some of the Hurtigruten Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen cruises are astronomy cruises. Those who are interested in astronomy book those particular sailings and they will have daily lectures as well as a resident astronomer on board. I believe there's an additional fare for those in the astronomy group (a small number of the total passengers on board) but in our experience, the astronomer will also have some lectures for the general public and he will be alert to when the Northern Lights are expected to be visible. The astronomer on our sailing was very generous with his knowledge, including best practices for photographing the Northern Lights. It was an unexpected bonus to be on that sailing. As for the cold, yes, it can be very cold and windy, layers are important as are hats and especially gloves. Make sure you have gloves you can use while taking photos, especially if you're using a cellphone. Taking your gloves off in order to take photos is a recipe for very cold hands and potential frostbite. There are gloves which have touch-sensitive finger tips but be sure to try taking photos with those gloves before you get on deck. I had gloves, but not the right type. And if you're using a cellphone for your photography, make sure you have it secured in a lanyard around your neck. That way you won't worry about dropping it, and you can put it back inside your jacket between sightings, preserving your battery.

Agree with Mike about the walking sticks. Just remember with spikes (crampons) that you have to be able to remove them and put them on again easily as many shops and other venues forbid entry with spikes. When you're all bundled up in layers it can be a challenge to swap spikes on and off. We were very happy we had them in Tromsø as it was pretty icy.

Based on our recent experience, you will be assigned a table number and time for dinner. Breakfast and lunch is open seating so there would be more opportunity to interact with fellow guests. As for what to bring, there is no kleenex in the cabin and the air is dry and cold so make sure you have plenty of lotion or moisturizer.

With regard to my original observation that excursions are expensive, that was simply my personal impression, nothing more. For example, in Tromsø, the following excursions were offered while the ship was in port 14:15-18:00: The arctic capital Tromsø NOK 1880; Dog sledding NOK 3290; Polar history walk NOK 1071; Cross-country skiing NOK1701; and Snowshoeing in Tromsø NOK 1701. On reflection, however, Hurtigruten has arranged for these activities to be enjoyed during the period when the ship is in port. It would be nearly impossible for an individual to arrange a private tour to fit the ship's schedule, so comparing the Hurtigruten prices with those for private tours is probably unfair. We have taken three excursions during our trip and we felt we got good value for each one. The arrangements were seamless, the guides were professional, the scenery was stunning, and when food was included, it was exceptional. The tour we took in Ålesund, Tastes and traditions in Hjørundford, cost NOK 2490 pp but it was among the best shore excursions we have ever taken. It was expensive but worth it. Just think of it as part of the package.

The ship is the Richard With and the cabin is a category J, Polar Outside. Public spaces are on decks 4 and 7. Deck 4 has seating areas near the Bistro and outside the main restaurant, Torget. And there are meeting rooms in the Exploration Center booking area where talks are given on excursions and daily activities. One meeting room is used for German, one for English. Deck 7 has the Explorer lounge and bar and the Multe ice cream and bakery. The outside observation area is also on deck 7 aft. This is the prime viewing area for Northern Lights activity, but being outside it is subject to wind and very cold temperatures. Public spaces generally do not seem crowded.

After more than a week onboard a Coastal Express sailing, following are some random impressions or comments: Cabin: we have an outside cabin with a partially obstructed view between the lifeboats. We were warned it was small. It is, but compact may be a better description. There's adequate space and storage isn't bad, but it gets crowded, especially with bulky winter clothing. The bathroom is the smallest we've ever experienced on a cruise ship, and caution is needed: there's a higher than expected step up from the room to the bathroom, and a small but definite step down to the very tiny shower floor (curtain: no door). There are two electrical outlets on either side of the bed—more than enough to charge all your electrical devices. Dining: breakfast and lunch are open seating but you will be assigned a time and table for dinner. This information is with your check-in packet and I suppose you can try to change time or table. You will have 90 minutes for dinner. The disadvantage of assigned tables is that you are eating next to the same people for 11 days, making it difficult to meet others. There seems to be a system of seating language groups next to each other. Menus: there will be three choices at dinner, one meat, one fish, and one vegetarian. We have found the cuisine to range from outstanding to very good, especially the soups and fish dishes. Overall the food is a bit salty. Breakfast is excellent: eggs, meat, potatoes, awesome bread, fresh fruit, cheeses etc. Coffee taste is very personal, so I won’t comment beyond saying the cups are very small. Excursions: the few excursions we have taken have been excellent, though pricey. You'll save considerably by booking no board. Miscellaneous: there's no Kleenex in the room; bring your own. And bring plenty of lotion as your skin will get very dry (winter conditions). What we have missed the most is daylight. We’ve all heard about the polar nights but the experience is something else. There has been roughly two hours of daylight each day. Staff: fantastic, caring, helpful; can’t say enough positives. It's been an adventure. We've had brief glimpses of the Northern Lights but we’re hoping for a better display in the next few days.

Clay, we had the same experience as Azulann on our recent BIE cruise. I emailed Guest Services to set up a Meet & Greet but never heard back. Soon after boarding I spoke to the kind person at Guest Services and she took charge of setting it up. I just gave her a list of those who wanted to attend along with cabin numbers, and she did the rest. We were in the upper level of the Explorer's Lounge and Viking served kir royales for all and some nibbles.

Thank you, grayjay. Our trip is 06-12 December so your reminder about it being dark, and about checking the weather forecast, are appreciated. We will wait and see what's available when we're on board.

Has anyone taken the Hjørunfjord - Tastes and Traditions excursion from Ålesund? Or the Taste of Vesterålen from Harstad? It's hard to find any reviews of Hurtigruten excursions, and since they are quite pricey, we were hoping someone could offer some insight. Thank you.

Be assured there was no ill intent with my reference to Texas. It was just a statement I heard clearly as the two tables began the usual "where are you from" introductions. What caught my attention was that the manager immediately knew what the situation was. I would think that part of his training would have been handling such situations tactfully. The tables at the Chef's Table are fairly close together. There was a four-top next to us and the two couples were conversing normally. When the four ladies behind us left, the gentleman at the next table gave me a fist bump, so I knew it wasn't just me who thought they were too loud. (Full disclosure: I wear hearing aids so amplified sound can be more irritating to me than to someone with normal hearing.) Not to worry, it was an enjoyable evening nonetheless and we remain loyal to Viking.

We just returned from our BIE cruise on Viking Mars. It was a great trip with one exception, which leads to my question. We booked the Chef's Table for the Great Britain menu. The food was exceptionally good but the experience was marred by "loud talkers." There were two ladies each at two two-tops directly behind us and they struck up a conversation ("we're from Texas"), getting to know new friends, so to speak. They became more animated, and louder, as the dinner progressed. When we were leaving the Chef's Table, the manager asked us how everything was. We told him that the food was excellent but the ambience was not. When we started to explain he immediately said, "oh, the tables behind you." So he was aware of the situation but did nothing to handle it. My question is, should it have been his responsibility to politely ask that the level of conversation be kept at a more reasonable volume, or should it have been our responsibility? We expect that the noise volume in The Restaurant will be loud as tables are filled, but in a smaller, more enclosed venue like the Chef's Table, is it unreasonable to expect a quieter atmosphere?

Viking could solve that problem by adding close captioning capability to the stateroom TV's.

Thanks, Clay. I've hesitated on past trips but think we'll go for it on our upcoming BIE. And congratulations to you and Mike on your trip report and photos. You're two talented gentlemen.

Clay, any problem bringing the pelt back into the US?

I should have added that the bus to Stanley goes past Repulse Bay, so you could make a stop there on the way to or from Stanley.