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New Orleans Review


twotall
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While researching our trip I found many great cruise reviews. One thing I did not find was an extended review of New Orleans. I thought that it might be helpful to share our experiences with everyone. I was able to learn a lot from others and am very thankful. Hopefully I can pay it forward a bit through this review.

 

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INTRODUCTION

My wife Kristen began planning for our trip over ten years ago – and no that is not a typo:). She has for years been fascinated by the culture and mystique of New Orleans. She’s an avid reader and has read many novels whose stories took place in the city. Ever since we’ve been married she’s been wanting to visit.

 

I on the other hand wasn't really that interested.

 

In early 2011 we began talking about taking a cruise. I researched a number of different possibilities and was really leaning towards sailing out of Florida. Then I discovered RCL’s Voyager of the Seas which was sailing out of New Orleans. I knew that if I wanted to avoid a lifetime of sleeping on the couch that it would be in my best interest to inform Kristen of this possibility. There was of course no debating:o. We were going to New Orleans.

 

It wasn’t until I began researching for our trip that I started to discover just how interesting New Orleans really is. Initially I wasn’t very excited but as time went on my anticipation for visiting New Orleans grew stronger.

 

Before I go any further I need to introduce our entire cast of characters. First, my lovely wife Kristen who as previously mentioned has been a huge fan of New Orleans for many years. Second, our daughter Emma who at the age of 9 is still very happy spending lots of vacation time with mom & dad. Third, our family friend Katelyn who at the age of 15 is happy to get away from her own parents to spend time with us:D. Katelyn's family is related to ours through marriage. It's somewhat difficult to explain but we simply referred to her as Emma’s cousin on the trip. Finally, myself. I served as chief planner for the trip :-).

 

New Orleans was the main reason why we chose to sail on the Voyager. We knew that we wanted to spend some extra time exploring before we sailed on Saturday. Luckily Emma had no school on Friday. Like all good parents we called her in sick on Thursday and left for vacation early;). Katelyn actually missed school on both Thursday and Friday – but she’s a really good student and missing two days wasn’t a big deal.

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As if it knew we were coming, New Orleans decided to take a bath and clean up prior to our arrival. In the 24-hours preceding our arrival the city received over 4” of rain. Luckily for us the storm was slowly moving eastward out of town and really didn’t impact us much.

 

We had a 9:00 flight out of Chicago and arrived in New Orleans around 11:30. I have to say that the airport doesn’t do the best job of welcoming visitors to town. The facility is a bit old and tired and could really use some updating. On the day of our arrival they were only using one luggage belt and several flights full of people were all standing around waiting for their luggage.

 

TIP: We found that using a taxi was the quickest and most cost effective way to get downtown. Finding the taxi stand was very easy. The only confusing part was the woman running the stand who kept referring to every vehicle as a van. It didn't matter if it was a van, car, or suv she would direct people to the “next van”. This led to confusion for more than one group of travelers. We found our “van” and were driven downtown to our hotel in about 20 minutes or so. For the four of us including a generous tip to account for handling our eight (8) bags of luggage the total cost was $70.

 

Thanks to great advice from others on these boards we elected to stay at the Drury Inn and Suites on Poydras Street.

 

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This proved to be an excellent hotel in a great location. It should be noted that the hotel is in the beginning stages of construction for a new addition. This had zero impact on us during our trip but it could become more of a factor as time goes on.

 

We arrived at the hotel a bit after noon and they already had a room ready for us. It was still raining slightly so we decided to unpack before heading out to explore. Our room was on the 6th floor overlooking the intersection of Poydras and Carondelet Streets.

 

Up next – lunch & our first tour of the French Quarter

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We left the hotel around 1:30 or so and except for a few brief passing showers the rain had pretty much stopped. We walked down Poydras one block to St. Charles and then turned left and headed for the French Quarter. We crossed over Canal Street. This is where St. Charles turns into Royal Street.

 

There are a number of very nice art and antique galleries located along the first several blocks of Royal. Both Kristen and Emma enjoy the arts and wanted to stop in each gallery. But they were also very hungry by this point. We all decided that it would be best to come back later in the afternoon on our way back to the hotel.

 

One of the things I enjoyed most while doing research was discovering the incredible variety of restaurants New Orleans has to offer. We kept changing our minds as to which restaurants we wanted to visit. In the end we decided to focus on less expensive, more local establishments. With that said, it’s somewhat difficult to find a true “local” establishment in the French Quarter. So for lunch on the first day we chose the Gumbo Shop on St. Peter Street.

 

Even though the Gumbo Shop caters primarily to tourists, the atmosphere and food were very good. I had the Creole Combination Platter and substituted crawfish etouffee in place of the red beans. The jumbalaya was the best among the three choices. Kristen is a rather picky eater and even she agreed that the jumbalaya was very good. I’d never had crawfish etouffee before. I thought it was also very good and would certainly try it again sometime. The shrimp remoulade was just o.k. I probably wouldn’t order it again. Kristen had the Blackend Chicken and was a little disappointed by its somewhat slimy texture. Katelyn had the Blackend Chicken Salad and said it was very good. Finally, Emma had the grilled cheese and said it was good.

 

The girls used the restroom before we left. I mention this minor point because public restrooms are practically non-existant throughout the French Quarter. You must patronize a business in order to utilize their facilities. This issue would come up a couple of times throughout our trip.

 

After satisfying our hunger we began our tour of the French Quarter. We made it exactly one-half block before the girls discovered their first gift store.

 

While they were shopping I happened upon Pat O’Briens. I wasn’t planning on having a drink so early in the afternoon but what the heck, I was in New Orleans. I went into the bar and took a few minutes to look around before ordering. There is a small courtyard behind the bar that is worthwhile checking out even if you’re not there to drink. It is very nice. I made my way to the bar, which was rather crowded for a Thursday afternoon, and ordered one of the world-famous hurricanes. I was surprised to see that a stack of them were already pre-made behind the bar. The bartender simply added alcohol, gave it a good shake, and handed it over. I made my way back out onto St. Peter St. and waited for the girls to finish shopping. It felt strange to be walking around outside with an alcoholic drink. I looked around and saw many others with drinks. Soon the strange feeling subsided and the hurricane started to kick in – all was good. The girls completed their shopping and we began our tour in earnest.

 

TIP: Prior to departing for our trip I copied text from a self-guided walking tour from a major travel information site into an e-mail. I then sent the e-mail to Kristen’s smart phone. As we began our tour I opened the e-mail and used the text to guide us as we walked through the Quarter. It worked wonderfully. The tour provided lots of details about the history of the buildings that we were seeing. We were approached by several people along the way asking if we had a French Quarter “app” on our phone. When I explained what I had done they said it was a good idea.

 

The French Quarter is filled with examples of amazing architecture

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At the other end of the spectrum is this building. It is not very attractive but it is historically significant. According to information from the walking tour, after the 1794 fire all houses in the French Quarter were required by law to have flat tile roofs. Most have since been covered with conventional roofs, but this Spanish colonial cottage is still in compliance with the flat-roof rule.

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Another special feature of the French Quarter is the hidden gardens and courtyards. Many of these belong to private residences.

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We finished the "official" tour near the intersection of Esplanade Ave. and Decatur St.

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According to information from the walking tour, Esplanade Ave. served as the parade grounds for troops quartered on nearby Barracks Street. It was here that Andrew Jackson reviewed the "troops" -- pirates, volunteers, and a nucleus of trained soldiers -- he later led in the Battle of New Orleans.

 

Very interesting history.

 

Up next - Part 2 of our tour and our first night out in the Big Easy.

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It was almost 5:00 by this point and we were starting to get a bit hungry again. We headed down Decatur and stopped into Cafe’ Du Monde for some beignets.

 

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It’s certainly not a “local” place but we couldn’t visit New Orleans without stopping in. There was no line but the place was still very busy. There’s no hostess to seat you. It’s strictly self service seating. We managed to find a table that had not yet been cleared and sat down. We ordered four beignets, some hot chocolate and some waters.

 

By this time the hurricane was causing my eyeballs to float and I really needed to use the washroom. I went searching and found a rather long line. It turns out that there is only one restroom open to the public. It took about 10-15 minutes of standing in line just to use the facility. I assume this is pretty common because they have several permanent signs directing you where to stand in line. I returned to the table and told the girls that if they needed to go then they had better get in line. They of course declined. This decision would come back to haunt us in a little while.

 

The beignets arrived and we paid our waitress with cash. I’m not sure if they accept credit cards or not but I would be hesitant to use one even if they did. The system is setup such that the waitress/waiter serves many tables at one time. They stack several orders onto a tray and they distribute them to the various tables. Each table pays when they receive their food. The waitress/waiter then takes orders from another group of tables and returns to the kitchen. I’m not sure how the process of using a credit card would work as it would take a long time for the server to return to your table. Cash seems to be easiest in this restaurant.

 

It turns out that we could have ordered fewer beignets. Emma is not much of a sweets person and was finished after her first. Katelyn, Kristen and I really enjoyed them. The girls would discover a few days later that the beignets are even better when they’re fresh out of the fryer – more on that later.

 

After our “pre-dinner” we walked across Decatur and into Jackson Square. The girls stepped into a few of the shops and I went I search of Stanley. Stanley is a restaurant located on St. Ann St. on the edge of the square. It was one of the many restaurants that we had considered for lunch. They serve breakfast all day and a variety of American cuisine. They are known for their burgers. I wanted to try their bananas foster french toast. It appeared to be a very nice restaurant and I would certainly like to go there the next time we’re in town. We walked around the square for awhile taking pictures and enjoying the atmosphere.

 

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We then began our trek back to the hotel and headed up St. Peter St. It was at this time that Emma declared that she needed to use the washroom. We decided to stop back into the Gumbo Shop where we’d had lunch earlier in the day. I told the girls to walk in like they owned the place but unfortunately the hostess refused to let them by. Now we were on a quest to find a washroom. We walked towards Royal St. and turned left towards Canal St. and the edge of the Quarter.

 

Luckily Emma decided that she did not need to go that badly so we were able to stop into several of the galleries that we had seen earlier in the day.

 

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The artwork in the various galleries ranged from eclectic to classic, simple to complex. We really enjoyed spending some time just looking and admiring the work of several amazing local artists. We weren’t in a position to make any purchases on this trip but it’s definitely something that we’ll consider for next time.

 

We continued down Royal until we reached Canal. We turned right and headed up Canal towards Bourbon St. It was about 6:30 and it was clear that the party on Bourbon had already started. This was as close as the girls got to seeing the seedier sections of Bourbon St. Earlier in the day we had walked along the more historic sections of Bourbon between Dumaine and Esplanade. That end of Bourbon Street is quite different than the blocks closer to Canal.

 

We made it back to the hotel a little before 7:00. The girls were able to get some food from the “5:30 Kickback” buffet. Emma had chicken tenders and mac & cheese. Katelyn had some chicken and other snacks. Kristen and I didn’t have anything as we were planning to go out later on.

 

Prior to leaving on the trip we had talked with Emma and Katelyn about staying in the hotel for a few hours while Kristen and I went out. Katelyn is a mature teenager and we felt very comfortable leaving her in charge. We were uncertain about whether or not to allow the girls to go swimming while we were out. We didn’t know how secure the hotel was. We quickly found out that you cannot use the elevator to access the guest floors unless you have a valid room key. The pool area is also locked and requires a valid room key. The front lobby is constantly monitored and the area surrounding the hotel seemed very safe. We decided that it would be fine for the girls to swim and then go back to the room and watch a movie while we went out.

 

Next up – our first night out in New Orleans.

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really enjoying your review so far. can't wait to read more. we cruised out of new orleans last cruise but spent zero time there. Next cruise we are leaving out of new orleans again, but planning on going a couple of days early.

 

thanks for the review...i'm ready for more! :)

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As I said earlier, Kristen is an avid reader. One of the genres that she really enjoys is vampires. We decided before we left that we wanted to do a vampire tour. I researched a few vendors based on tips from others here on CC. We decided on Haunted History Tours and I booked reservations for our first evening in town. The meeting spot for the tour was in front of St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square. Kristen and I left the hotel around 7:30 so that we would have plenty of time. We walked along Carondelet towards Canal. Upon crossing Canal Carondelet turns into Bourbon Street.

 

Although we had walked along the other end of Bourbon St. earlier in the day it was nothing like this end. There was a light mist falling so the crowd wasn’t that big. Even so, it was still pretty raucous. This section of Bourbon St. is filled with gentleman’s clubs, bars, dance clubs and other adult oriented establishments. We expected this and were there to enjoy the atmosphere and see the sights. What we weren’t expecting was the number of children present. Granted it was prior to 8:00, but there were still many kids around. Some beads were tossed at Kristen from a balcony above. When we looked up we were taken aback by the little boy who couldn’t have been more than 7 or 8 who threw them. As parents it made us feel somewhat uncomfortable to see a lot of kids walking in an area surrounded by adult images and mature behavior. Anyway, we took our sweet to walk several blocks to St. Peter Street and then turned right and headed for Jackson Square.

 

We arrived in front of St. Louis Cathedral at about 8:15. The tour was scheduled to step off at 8:30.

 

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There was already a fairly large group gathered. We stood around for a few minutes and then it started to rain harder. As I said, it had been misting very lightly on and off since the time we left the hotel. Now it had begun to truly rain. We sought shelter under a walkway next door to the cathedral. We waited about 10 minutes or so and the rain pretty much stopped. We ventured out towards the group again and unfortunately a few minutes later it began to rain. We headed back to the shelter of the walkway. Luckily at about 8:27 it stopped raining. The tour leader gathered us into one large group and announced that due to the number of people there would be two separate tours each with their own guide. It turned out that about 2/3 of the people were traveling together as a large group. This worked great for us as we ended up in the smaller sized group.

 

I apologize for not remembering the name of our tour guide but I will say that he was very good. He began the tour by explaining that he wasn’t going to tell ghost stories or have anyone jump out and scare us. This tour was based more on historical events and how those events could be tied to vampire mythology. I don’t recall the exact path that we traveled but I will say that we walked throughout a good portion of the Quarter between St. Peter St. and Esplanade Ave. This picture was taken just as we began.

 

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We were about 5 minutes into our tour when it began to rain again. This time it wasn’t going to stop. New Orleans received almost two inches of rain during the overnight hours. About an inch of which must have fallen during our tour. You might think that the rain would have put a damper on our tour but that wasn't the case. On the contrary, the rain, thunder and crackling lightning only added to the ambiance of vampire lore. Our guide did an excellent job of guiding us from one balcony overhang to another so we try to stay dry. Unfortunately we still got pretty soaked - but it was a lot of fun.

 

Back to the tour…. our guide took us to various historic buildings, many of which we had walked by earlier in the day. It was interesting because our afternoon walking tour had provided some general details. Our guide expanded upon those details and gave us a full history of the events that had occurred. He basically relayed factual historic data and interwove vampire folklore into the story. There was one residence where multiple murders had taken place. Our guide explained how the murders could be tied to vampires and provided very interesting information on how the bodies were “buried” in local cemeteries.

 

About half way through the tour we stopped into Lafitte’s for a refreshment. Lafitte’s was at one time a blacksmith shop. The place is pretty neat and during warm weather months I'm sure it provides a welcome break for those on the tour. During our tour it was mostly just a place to dry out for a bit.

 

After Lafitte’s we made a few quick stops on our way to the intersection of Ursuline Ave. and Chartres St. There is a former church and convent at this location that according folklore has many connections to vampires. Supposedly more than one dead body has been found on the steps of the main entrance. We happened to take a photo of the main entrance earlier in the day. Above the door is a Latin saying:

HIC DOMUS DEI EST



ET PORTA COELI

Loosely translated it means “This is the house of God and the gate of heaven”

 

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I’ll do my best to relay the story but I have to say that our guide did a much better job than I can…..our guide stated that Catholic records dating back to the early 1700's are stored at the former church and convent. During that time period the Catholic Church sent young girls from France to New Orleans to find respectable men to marry. Unfortunately, New Orleans was filled mostly with pirates, thieves and other social miscreants. A good number of the girls were raped and forced into prostitution. Superstitious citizens at the time claimed that the girls had smuggled vampires into New Orleans in the chests that they carried. The chests were known as “caskets”. Rumor has it that many of these “caskets” are still stored in the attic of the convent. The attic is supposedly completely sealed with its windows shuttered and secured with nails blessed by the pope. The shutters are always closed, but some say that late at night the shutters open and the vampires come out into New Orleans seeking their prey.....Again, I’m not really doing the story much justice. It is much more interesting and believable when you hear it live.

 

This is a picture of the home and courtyard across the street

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We made a few more stops and heard a few more stories before the tour finally ended around 10:30 or so near the intersection of Esplanade Ave. and Chartres St. Kristen and I had planned to gab a bit to eat after the tour. We didn't know where we would end up so we were going to decide between Coop's Place on Decatur St. or Remoulade on Bourbon St. We were pretty soaked and decided to head back towards our hotel. We headed up Esplanade and turned left onto Bourbon. We walked for several blocks, passing by Lafitte’s once again. By this time the rain had stopped again and the party on Bourbon was in full swing. We spent a little time enjoying the sites and sounds and then headed back to the hotel. We felt perfectly safe walking along Carondelet. It was around 11:30 or so but there were still lots of people walking around.

 

Hotel lobby at nighttime

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We returned to the room and found out that the girls had a fun evening. They went swimming for awhile until it started to lightning. We had told them that it would be o.k. For them to order a movie in the room. The girls were disappointed by the fact that there was no pay-per-view movies available in the room. Kristen and I both took showers and we all went to bed. It was a very long but very fun day.

 

Next up – Streetcars, Zoo, Garden District and a mid-town Dinner.

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This is a fantastic review, and your pictures are lovely.

 

We will be in NO in Jan '13, and I have been doing research for several months. You are describing things I've read about. The beautiful pictures make me want to go NOW!!!

 

I am anxious to read more. Thank you for so graciously taking time to inspire many of us reading the review.

 

I find the planning almost as much fun as the trip, but the sharing. lets one enjoy the trip once again.

 

Cruzin Lady

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Congratulations on doing your homework before your visit. New Orleans is a wonderfully interesting city. Too many people wander down Bourbon Street, eat at a tourist trap restaurant and think they have seen New Orleans.

 

I have lived here for almost forty years, and I'm still learning and seeing new things.

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Thanks so much for doing this type of review!!

 

We will be leaving on a cruise out of New Orleans in January, and it will be our first time in New Orleans so reading your review, and seeing your great photos, is wonderful!!

 

Can hardly wait for more, and photos too!! :)

 

Actually, we are booked at the Drury Inn for the night before our cruise but I'm considering cancelling because of the parking situation. We normally fly when we cruise and just rent a car, but this time we are driving and I hate the thought of not being able to park at the hotel. With them building a new parking structure they are doing off-site parking through valet service, and they don't expect to be done by the time we cruise. So, I may decide to find a different hotel. We do love Drury Inns though, they're fantastic!!

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You might check out the Hampton Inn Garden District. It's supposed to be very nice and they do have parking. it's supposed to be in a lovely area, and it's right on the streetcar line which is so convenient and for seniors it's only 40¢.

 

Cruzin Lady

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You might check out the Hampton Inn Garden District. It's supposed to be very nice and they do have parking. it's supposed to be in a lovely area, and it's right on the streetcar line which is so convenient and for seniors it's only 40¢.

 

Cruzin Lady

 

 

We are also first timers to No. We are leaving on Navigator on Jan 12. When will you be there?

 

Cruzin Lady

 

Thank you for the Hampton Inn suggestions, I will definitely look into that.

 

We are going on the January 27th Conquest.

 

Really looking forward to seeing New Orleans, and leaving on the cruise from there. I'm excited about "cruising down the river" for several hours before we get to open water. That will definitely be a new experience, and we'll have an aft stateroom so it will be fun to sit on our balcony and watch everything go by. Might even skip dinner that night and just order a sandwich from room service so we don't "miss anything" on the river. :)

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Actually, we are booked at the Drury Inn for the night before our cruise but I'm considering cancelling because of the parking situation. We normally fly when we cruise and just rent a car, but this time we are driving and I hate the thought of not being able to park at the hotel. With them building a new parking structure they are doing off-site parking through valet service, and they don't expect to be done by the time we cruise. So, I may decide to find a different hotel.

 

Thanks again for your kind words.

 

During our stay they were still parking cars on-site. You're right though, by next January they'll probably be parking off-site.

 

Will you really need your car while at the hotel? We found that we were able to get everywhere we wanted by walking or using the streetcars. We didn't have a car and didn't really need one.

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I'm excited about "cruising down the river" for several hours before we get to open water......we'll have an aft stateroom so it will be fun to sit on our balcony and watch everything go by.

 

We had an aft balcony on the Voyager and it was great to see the sites. We printed out this guide and found it to be very helpful.

 

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1211622

 

Enjoy the aft, it was the best cabin we've ever had.

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We arranged a wake up call for 8:30. Both Emma and I had showered before we went to bed so it didn't take us too long to get ready and head downstairs for breakfast. Katelyn jumped in the shower and Kristen caught a few extra winks. Drury has a pretty standard hotel breakfast buffet. The food was good but certainly nothing fancy. Emma and I filled our plates and then sat down to eat and watch the weather report. According to the report the city received about two inches of rain overnight. Luckily the storms had moved off to the east and the forecast was for clouds early and then sunshine. We finished eating around 9:20 and the buffet was set to close at 9:30. We grabbed some oatmeal, fruit and yogurt for Katelyn and Kristen and headed upstairs to the room. The girls were basically ready when we got back. They quickly ate some breakfast and we headed out.

 

We walked down Poydras to the St. Charles streetcar stop. It turns out that we weren't the first ones to arrive. These guys were there before us

 

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Actually they are really neat tiles that must have been installed by someone with a sense of humor. Its neat how they installed them to make it appear that the cockroaches were coming out of the manhole. These tiles aren't the only unique sidewalk covering we saw. The previous day during our walking tour we saw a large area of sidewalk that had been resurfaced with pennies. Kind of cool and unique.

 

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We didn't have to wait very long for the streetcar to arrive. TIP: Plan your activities to take advantage of transit system “jazzy” passes. We originally considered going to the Garden District on the first day followed by the zoo and a mid-city dinner the next day. This would have meant purchasing several different streetcar rides. By modifying our plans we were able to purchase a one-day jazzy pass for the four of us for a total of $12. It made sense to visit the zoo and Garden District on the same day as they are relatively close to each other. The streetcar was somewhat crowded when we boarded. Emma and Katelyn were able to find seats and Kristen and I stood in the back. It took a few stops but eventually the streetcar started to empty out and we were all able to get seats.

 

TIP: Use your smart phone GPS feature to track your progress on the streetcar. I was in charge of navigation and knew generally where we were going; however, I was not familiar with all of the cross streets and didn't really know when we were getting close. In addition, it's sometimes difficult to see the street signs as you are riding along. This is especially true if you are standing in the back. I found that by watching Kristen's smart phone display I could tell exactly where we were and knew ahead of time when we needed to prepare to get off. This wasn't as much of an issue on the way to the zoo as there were several people headed there but it did work well on all of our other trips.

 

We arrived at the zoo stop and a bunch of us exited the streetcar. The zoo shuttle van arrived within seconds after we did. We didn't realize that the zoo had a shuttle service. It turns out that they run a van non-stop between the streetcar stop and the zoo entrance throughout the day. We didn't hop on because we were planning to walk through Audubon Park.

 

Next up - Audubon Park

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