A Day in Alexandria -- port review

Because I've already visited Cairo twice, I opted to stay in Alexandria on my recent cruise stop there and spend an entire day doing justice to this city. I had read a lot before my visit about Alexander's founding of the city, the wonderful efforts of the early Ptolemies to build a city where trade and scholarship could both thrive, about the closing years of the Ptolemies and saga of Cleopatra, subsequent Roman rule, and the struggles of the city in the early centuries of the Christian era between Christian faith and pagan learning.

I had a specific list of things that I wanted to see, so I booked a private tour (ship tours tend to skimp where Alexandria is concerned, as most passengers want to make the long trek to Cairo on a first visit). I communicated my wish list -- to see all the key sites associated with Greco-Roman Alexandria -- and my request for an above-average guide, and I hoped everything would gel. And indeed it did.

I had a little trouble disembarking the ship (HAL, you need to do a better job with this!), but when I finally did get off, my guide was waiting with a sign. We walked out of the port and about 5 minutes later were on our way to our first site -- the catacombs of Kom al Shuqufa. My guide proved to be a delight. Dalia was smart, funny, and a very fluent English speaker. She came prepared with photos, maps, and extra information for me, knowing I already had some basic knowledge of the period.

The catacombs surprised and delighted me. They were somewhat similar to those I'd seen in Christian Rome and Jewish Israel. Yet these often blended elements from ancient Egypt and Greco-Roman paganism. We first stopped in the tomb of Tigrane (discovered nearby but moved to this site for preservation). The colors of the wall paintings were bright and vivid. The tomb blends Roman and Egyptian elements in its decoration, and includes spaces for both urns (Roman cremation) and sarcophagi (Egyptian mummification).

After marvelling over this little gem (the preservation of which worries me), we entered the main catacombs, where there were hundreds of niches and sarcophagi carved from the soft stone. It was a hot day; luckily we were there early in the morning, but I have a feeling it could be a bit stifling later in the day with the heat and humidity. The complex is built on three levels, the bottom one of which is still flooded. In the front, near the entrance, is a Roman-style triclinium or dining area. This was used by families who came to feast with the dead on important holidays -- apparently a popular custom given the amount of smashed crockery that was discovered here. (If you ate here, you had to leave your plates and serving vessels behind, because they would be "unclean".)

In a separate area on the 2nd level is a tomb clearly much finer than the rest. Dalia informed me that (current hoopla about the tomb of Cleopatra and Mark Antony notwithstanding) several teams of archaeologists hold that THIS may be their actual burial place. I can see why they feel this may be the spot -- the quality of the carving is very fine indeed. The central space is intended for a woman (with royal Egyptian symbology used) and there are niches on either side, perhaps for a husband (Antony) and child or children (Caesarion?). The blending of Greek, Roman, and Egyptian motifs is beautifully rendered. Anubis, the Egyptian god of the underworld, is dressed like a Roman soldier -- perhaps to honor the tomb of a Roman general? Sacred cobras play a prominent role. The columns are very classic and similar to those in important Egyptian temples. Well worth seeing!

Next we headed to the Serapeum -- where the god Serapis, created by Ptolemy I to meld together the Greek and Egyptian gods was worshipped -- which is also the site of Pompey's pillar. Of course, it really is Diocletian's pillar and did not exist in the time of Pompey. Like everything in ancient Egypt, the scale is monumental. You cannot comprehend how large the column actually is (taller than even the obelisks) until you get close. Even the sphinxes are oversized. More fascinating to me, the Serapeum was supposed to have housed the "daugher library" or smaller branch of the famous library of Alexandria. Dalia leads me underground to see the book niches where a few scraps of papyrus were reportedly recovered. It's a place that gives me a few chills; it has definitely witnessed its share of history. Also in this area was a large bronze statue of the Apis bull -- one form of the god Serapis -- where apparently sacred Apis bulls were also buried, like those at Saqqara.

On the way out, we saw an Egyptian Nilometer, used to predict the yearly flooding of the Nile river. The whole complex is beautifully situated on a low hill with a good view over the entire area. Originally built by the third Ptolemy, it was sacked and destroyed by Christians (as it was considered a site of pagan learning) in the 4th century AD.

Although it was broiling by now -- with a slight breeze as a saving grace -- we visited one more outside site before lunch, the site of the Roman Odeon and open-air museum for monuments brought up from the Alexandrian harbor. This area is known as Kom al Dikka. The Odeon is a beautiful, small theater with seats made from Italian marble. It was originally covered, with the roof supported by granite pillars from Aswan. The function of the theater is still being debated. Some feel it was used as an auditorium for lectures, given the number of classroom cubicles found nearby. Others think it was a venue for plays and perhaps music, given the great acoustics. There is a colonnaded street, off of which are the cubicles -- once thought to be shops, but now almost certainly known to be classrooms where perhaps some of the famous philosophers of Alexandria taught their students.

Before leaving, we visit past the site of the Roman baths to a small villa on the site with beautiful mosaic floors depicting various birds. http://www.guardians.net/sca/roman_mosaics.htm This is an extra charge, but well worth seeing.

Lunch was a welcome break in a nice restaurant with a terrific view of the harbor, from Qait Bey fortress to the Biblioteca Alexandrina and beyond. I enjoyed a grilled fresh fish and some of my favorite mezzes while Dalia and I chatted and cooled off. I also had the chance to meet with some of the management of the agency I booked my tour through, just checking in to be sure that all was going according to my wishes.

(Since this is getting lengthy, I will cover the afternoon in a second post......)

After lunch, we headed to the National Museum. I'd wanted to see the Greco-Roman Museum, but it has been closed for several years as part of a massive renovation, with no date yet given for opening. I was a bit disappointed, but the National Museum turned out to be a great surprise. It is housed in an Italianate mansion that once served as the American embassy -- inside, it's all marble floors, brass railings, and grand staircases. Seeing the house itself is almost worth the price of admission. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed.

The museum is arranged on three floors, in roughly chronological order. On the bottom floor are some very fine Egyptian pieces, including a stunning bust of Akhenaten (the heretic pharaoh who tried to create a new religion where only one god -- the sun disk -- was worshipped). My favorite piece was probably a beautiful bust of Hatshepsut, the woman pharaoh. She has a wide-eyed, peaceful look that is typically of all her dynasty.

The second floor showcases finds from the Greco-Roman period. I suspect the best are in the other museum, but we still saw some interesting things, including typical Greek and Roman busts, some Fayoum portraits (the painted burial masks used for mummies during the Greco-Roman period), and a couple of gorgeous mosaics. New to me are the lovely small terra cotta figurines called Tanagra figurines -- they are beautifully detailed and almost contemporary looking.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanagra_figurine

On the third floor are objects from the Coptic (Egyptian Christian) era through modern times. It's a wide span of time and includes everything from heavily embroidered Coptic vestments and gilded icons, to intricately carved wooden mashrabiya from the early Arabic period, to a collection of medals from Egypt's last king. In all, it's a nice and compact walk through Egypt's history.

Our last official stop for the day is the Biblioteca Alexandrina, the new Library of Alexandria, built very close to the accepted site of the original library. Dalia guided me around the outside, pointing out various things such as the colossal statue of Ptolemy II (founder of the original library), which was recovered from the water of the harbor and restored in France for four years. She then signed me up for the next English tour inside the library -- private guides are not permitted to give tours here, you must use one of their own tours.

The tour starts in the lobby with some background on the new library, including the idea behind it and the design competition. The new library is much more than just a place to store books (although it can hold millions of volumes). It also includes an internet archive, four museums, a planetarium, and a conference center. Anyone can use the library by paying the ridiculously cheap membership (the equivalent of about $12 US per year), which entitles you to read any book in the regular collection, and also includes free internet access (they have hundreds of terminals). The library has 4 levels above ground and 7 below ground. Our guide tells us all the specialized built-in features to ensure that the library is never destroyed by fire, flood, or earthquake.

Our tour includes the huge reading area, where natural light is gently filtered in and special panels to reduce noise were designed. We end on the floor below the main entrance, where some of the special galleries/museums are located. Some of these are included in the price of your ticket and others have an additional cost. One of the free galleries is called "Impressions of Alexandria" and is very interesting, with old paintings, prints, maps, and photos of Alexandria through the years. Another gallery with an extra charge is the Antiquities Museum, which includes artifacts found during construction of the site and also some that were discovered during underwater expeditions in the harbor area. Currently, they also have a few pieces from the closed Greco-Roman museum on display, so I was happy to spend some time here.

By the way, I am not much for shopping, but the library did have a gift shop with some nice quality souvenirs.

Our tour was officially concluded, but Dalia had mentioned earlier a couple of mosques that were worth seeing, so we decided to make a brief stop there enroute back to the ship. (Timing was not an issue; the Westerdam was not sailing until 11:00 pm to accommodate all those who went to Cairo for the day.) The mosques had recently been cleaned and restored, and the pale, highly carved stone almost looked like ivory and glowed in the late afternoon sun. The delicate carved tracery of the domes almost gives an Indian look to them.

On the way back to the ship, Dalia also pointed out the original location for "Cleopatra's needles" -- the obelisks from ancient Egypt that were moved to Alexandria by Cleopatra and set up in the temple she built to honor Mark Antony. (One of the obelisks is now in Times Square in NY, its twin is on the London Embankment in London; both were gifts from the Egyptian government). The location is now known as Sa'ad Zaghloul square.

We arrived back at the ship and said our goodbyes -- I felt I was leaving a friend behind, we were so "in tune" in terms of our love for Egyptian history. I believe I forgot to mention that even though my tour was for just one person, we had a nice air-conditioned car and driver in addition to my guide. Although the traffic in Alexandria is not like that in Cairo, it's nice to have a driver, as the guide was able to give me a lot of information between stops without having to worry about traffic or parking.

Some ending thoughts on Alexandria: Alexandria has some beautiful buildings along the waterfront that could be stunning if restored to their former grandeur. They are mostly dilapidated now, but still have an "air" about them. The setting of the city, with the Mediterranean sea, remains wonderful, and there are great beaches nearby. Alexandria has a population of only 5 million, compared with Cairo's 25 million. If the city could be revitalized, it could be a great destination in and of itself for travelers.

While I still think a first-time visitor to Egypt should head to Cairo (preferably overnight), do not overlook seeing Alexandria if you are returning for a second visit or if you are in Egypt on a land tour. It has a lot to offer. I hope this is helpful to others, and I'm happy to answer any questions.

Thank you for a wonderful review. It sounds like you loved the tour you created for yourself and like you love Alexandria.

I've heard so many people talk about going to Cairo and not recommending seeing Alexandria so it was refreshing to hear all that Alexandria can offer.

Thanks so much for your report.

I was wondering how long the library tour was?

and could you enlighten me about the mezzes your had?

Thanks

Thanks so much for your report.

 

I was wondering how long the library tour was?

 

and could you enlighten me about the mezzes your had?

 

Thanks

The official library tour was fairly brief -- I'd say about 20-25 minutes. But there is a lot more to look at on your own, both outside the building and on the floor below the ground floor where the galleries/museums are located.

As to the mezzes, they were the typical Egyptian/Middle Eastern offerings: hummus, tahini, yogurt with mint, baba ghanoush. All served with fresh out of the oven pita bread.

The official library tour was fairly brief -- I'd say about 20-25 minutes. But there is a lot more to look at on your own, both outside the building and on the floor below the ground floor where the galleries/museums are located.

 

As to the mezzes, they were the typical Egyptian/Middle Eastern offerings: hummus, tahini, yogurt with mint, baba ghanoush. All served with fresh out of the oven pita bread.

We will be on a private group guided tour. I hope we have a decent amount of time at the library.

And the mezzes sound great. Looking forward to it

thank you for the wonderful review . I am spending a couple of days in Alexandria and this has helped alot

I'm glad you enjoyed the review and found it useful. I have to say that the tour agency I worked with did an outstanding job and I plan to use them again when I visit Cairo in less than 2 weeks to see some sights that are a little off the beaten track.

Have a great time. I am leaving for Cairo on 1st December will arrive in Cairo for a tour on the 5th Dec. This is my first visit. what will the weather be like thanks

Cruisemom,

An excellent review of Alexandria. I was also concerned about the catacomb preservation. Other than the ticket taker who walked around with me to point out highlights and get a tip, we were all alone. If a large group came in, they could easily have damaged or taken objects from the tombs. I wish I could have taken photos, but with it being so dark in the tombs, it would have required a flash, which could damage the artwork.

I wish we could have taken your tour that covered more of this fascinating city; but I guess that means we will have something to see when we return.

We really enjoyed our visit to Alexandria, and like you would only spend the time there if we had already been to Cairo. Since this was the end of a Nile River cruise, it worked out great.

Have a great time. I am leaving for Cairo on 1st December will arrive in Cairo for a tour on the 5th Dec. This is my first visit. what will the weather be like thanks

From what I can see of the extended forecast (next 10 days), it looks like highs will be around 80 degrees most days and lows around 60. I don't think that will change much by your arrival date. Very pleasant for sightseeing; certainly beats the 100+ temps in September!

Cruisemom,

An excellent review of Alexandria. I was also concerned about the catacomb preservation. Other than the ticket taker who walked around with me to point out highlights and get a tip, we were all alone. If a large group came in, they could easily have damaged or taken objects from the tombs. I wish I could have taken photos, but with it being so dark in the tombs, it would have required a flash, which could damage the artwork.

 

I wish we could have taken your tour that covered more of this fascinating city; but I guess that means we will have something to see when we return.

 

We really enjoyed our visit to Alexandria, and like you would only spend the time there if we had already been to Cairo. Since this was the end of a Nile River cruise, it worked out great.

Good to see you on these boards again, it seems like just a short time ago you were so excited about your trip.

Yes, the state of preservation of some monuments seems like a growing concern all over the world -- witness the collapse of the Gladiator House in Pompeii last weekend. Luckily for Egypt, most of its sites are located in arid desert environments, which causes fewer issues. But Alexandria, being on the Mediterranean, is more humid, and so there are deterioration issues. Also, as you point out, all too easy for vandals, robbers, or other mischief makers to access them.

thank you cruisemom that is awesome . rather be cool than very high temperatures. i was a little hesitant about our trip to Egypt but reading what you have to say makes it very exciting

Cynthia - we tend to tour on our own but we would be interested to know the name of the tour company and the price....Thanks for a good review.

Cheers, D

Cynthia - we tend to tour on our own but we would be interested to know the name of the tour company and the price....Thanks for a good review.

 

Cheers, D

The tour company is Egypt Private Excursions, http://www.egyptprivateexcursions.com/. The person I have emailed with extensively there is H. David. They also have a toll-free number if you prefer to discuss or make arrangements that way. I've never been fully comfortable discussing prices in a travel forum, but for a private tour for one person, the cost would be slightly more than a ship tour for 40. For two people, I'm sure the cost per person would be less than an equivalent ship tour.

I am also one who prefers to do ports on my own whenever possible. However, the logistics in Egypt (when only there for a day) are a bit daunting.

A belated thank you for an excellent post, we have two days in Alex in March and will be following in your footsteps.

New Salt

Cruisemom42-- What date was your tour? A few years ago we

had a private tour and our tour guide was also named Dalia.

We've kept in contact ever since. I know it's a long shot but I

wonder if it's the same girl. Dalia Abd El Aziz

We will be back in Egypt in Jan and like you, we've done Cairo

already so this time she is meeting us in Alex and we're spending

the day there. Your notes help alot. How do you remember all

those details? You're amazing! Did you get sick from your visit?

I got sick after I ate in the restaurant in Cairo. Won't stop me

from traveling but I wondered what your experience was.

Cruisemom42-- What date was your tour? A few years ago we

had a private tour and our tour guide was also named Dalia.

We've kept in contact ever since. I know it's a long shot but I

wonder if it's the same girl. Dalia Abd El Aziz

 

We will be back in Egypt in Jan and like you, we've done Cairo

already so this time she is meeting us in Alex and we're spending

the day there. Your notes help alot. How do you remember all

those details? You're amazing! Did you get sick from your visit?

I got sick after I ate in the restaurant in Cairo. Won't stop me

from traveling but I wondered what your experience was.

I had to get Dalia's card to be sure -- no, it is not the same person. (My Dalia's last name is Abdelrazeq, which is pretty close!)

You will enjoy your day in Alexandria, I'm sure. I make it a point to jot down a few notes (if needed) during the tour, then I try to write a "full report" that night while it is still fresh in my mind. I also do a lot of research for my trips in advance, so that when I get there, the basic information is already familiar to me. :o

I did not get sick, but then I've visited Egypt 4 times now (2 cruise ship stops and 2 longer visits) and have yet to get sick on any of them. Some acquaintances accuse me of having an iron stomach; truthfully, I do seem to have a less sensitive GI tract than most! Anyway, the food in the Alex restaurant was very tasty.

I had to get Dalia's card to be sure -- no, it is not the same person. (My Dalia's last name is Abdelrazeq, which is pretty close!)

 

You will enjoy your day in Alexandria, I'm sure. I make it a point to jot down a few notes (if needed) during the tour, then I try to write a "full report" that night while it is still fresh in my mind. I also do a lot of research for my trips in advance, so that when I get there, the basic information is already familiar to me. :o

 

I did not get sick, but then I've visited Egypt 4 times now (2 cruise ship stops and 2 longer visits) and have yet to get sick on any of them. Some acquaintances accuse me of having an iron stomach; truthfully, I do seem to have a less sensitive GI tract than most! Anyway, the food in the Alex restaurant was very tasty.

Oh shoot, I was hoping it was the same person. Wouldn't that have

been a hoot. Thanks for your detailed notes. They are much

appreciated.

Cynthia, that was a marvellous trip report which I have just now discovered. Sounds like a terrific day in Alexandria. Oddly enough, I'm reading it a day after having seen "Agora," a film set in late fourth century Alexandria focusing on the female philosopher Hypatia and the tensions which led to the destruction of the Serapeum library. The recreation of ancient Alexandria is stunning, and if you haven't already seen it, it is worth renting.

Having been to Cairo (also with an excellent guide named Dalia - seems to be a prerequisite for that profession in Egypt), we had already come to the conclusion that if we ever landed in Alexandria again, we would do at least one day in the city. Your trip report provides a great template for that day, and I will file it. Is there anything that you didn't get to do that you would have included in a second day in Alexandria, or any nearby excursions that you would have made?

Thanks for a great report. We will be there in a few months. I was wondering if your tour would be practical for someone with walking difficulties? I use a cane for balance, but have trouble with a lot of stairs. Nancy

Cynthia, that was a marvellous trip report which I have just now discovered. Sounds like a terrific day in Alexandria. Oddly enough, I'm reading it a day after having seen "Agora," a film set in late fourth century Alexandria focusing on the female philosopher Hypatia and the tensions which led to the destruction of the Serapeum library. The recreation of ancient Alexandria is stunning, and if you haven't already seen it, it is worth renting.

 

Having been to Cairo (also with an excellent guide named Dalia - seems to be a prerequisite for that profession in Egypt), we had already come to the conclusion that if we ever landed in Alexandria again, we would do at least one day in the city. Your trip report provides a great template for that day, and I will file it. Is there anything that you didn't get to do that you would have included in a second day in Alexandria, or any nearby excursions that you would have made?

Thanks, Bob, for the nice words. I happened to see the "Agora" movie just before my trip in September; the timing couldn't have been better. I also read a lot about Alexander the Great (and also the Ptolemies) prior to my trip.

In that regard, if I had 2 days in Alexandria, I'd probably spend one of them on the tour above. For the second, I'd try to get to Siwa Oasis, an ancient oracle, and also where Alexander received the news of his "divine birth" and right to rule Egypt. It would likely be a long day, and probably best done on the first day of a 2-day port stop to avoid any possibility of missing the ship.

If that doesn't appeal, there are a couple of other catacombs (I can give you names if you are interested) that would be worth a visit. Also, I toyed with the idea of visiting the Nabi Daniel mosque and the Latin Cemetery, both of which are possible locations of Alexander's still-missing tomb.

Of course, if the Greco-Roman museum reopens anytime soon, I would certainly recommend it.

Finally, there is a tomb in the town of Abusir, not very far outside Alexandria, that is made to resemble (so far as history can tell us) the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria, but on a smaller scale. Again, something I'd like to see if I were trying to fill a half day in Alex.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for a great report. We will be there in a few months. I was wondering if your tour would be practical for someone with walking difficulties? I use a cane for balance, but have trouble with a lot of stairs. Nancy

Nancy, in going back through my notes for this day, there were quite a few stairs and uneven surfaces. At the catacombs, there were 2 flights down and then back up, along with some pretty uneven terrain. At the Serapeum/Pompey's pillar, the ground was hilly, but you could likely walk around the outside (good photo ops) with few issues. To view what's left of the inside, you would have to go down and then up a flight of steps. All of the steps I mention so far are not exactly easy (e.g., uneven heights, not always a handrail, etc) by American standards.

At Kom al Dikka, where the open air museum and Odeon are located, there is an upper area you can walk around with few steps. This path takes you around the finds that have been brought up from the harbor. You can look down into the Odeon (actually a good view) and the other lower-level sights such as the Roman baths. But if you actually want to get down to this level, I seem to recall several flights of stairs (maybe 3?). You will not be able to see the Villa of the Birds without getting to this lower level.

At the National Museum, there is an elevator if needed to get from floor to floor. The same is true at the Biblioteca Alexandrina, although on the tour we did start at the main level and before the end we went down one flight of stairs to a lower level. These stairs were very modern, though, with handrail. Perhaps you could take the elevator and meet the group if needed.

The rest of the day's sights that I mentioned were either drive-by or quick stops to just get out of the car, walk a few steps and snap some photos.

I am in my mid-40s and (especially with the heat), it was a long, tiring day even for me....:o

Hope this helps!

Cynthia - Thank you very much. I will look forward to the museum, library and odeon (and drive bys). Getting old sucks!

Thanks for a wonderful review, We will be there in a few months.