Camera Equipment Suggestions?

Hi all, I'm hoping to pick your photographer brains! I'm very much a beginner when it comes to photography. I was given a Canon T3 as a gift recently and am still shooting on auto most of the time. However, I'd really like to invest in a zoom lens and flash for our upcoming cruise and am hoping to get some recommendations.

For the lens, keeping in mind that I shoot on auto, I'm looking for something that I can get a good close-up shot of dolphins in the water from the boat (hopefully). Or on the occasions we go to the zoo, get some nice close-ups of the animals. I'm not sure if this is relevant or not, but I'd like the ability to choose whether or not blur the background in certain shots. So a lens that allows me to do that would be great. I apologize if that sounds silly.

And for the flash, this will really sound dumb so bear with me, my friend recently purchased a flash and her pics are now nice and bright without much editing. She also shoots on auto. I'm hoping to copy her cheat with a decent flash.

Can you recommend either of these? I'm looking to stay on the inexpensive side and would also consider used if I could find it. Thanks so much for any suggestions or input. I appreciate it!

I would recommend the Canon 55-250 for telephoto. Make sure it is an IS (image stabilized) so it won't blur the subject when you are zoomed.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto-Digital/dp/B0011NVMO8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377642465&sr=1-2&keywords=canon+lens

For flash I like the Canon 270 EX II.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-270EX-II-Speedlite-Cameras/dp/B004M8SWBK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377642494&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+flash+270ex+ii

I am not endorsing Amazon but showing the equipment at the low end. I have a T3i and these have served me well. To blur the background just turn the mode knob on top to the runner icon. This will freeze the subjects motion , keep it from blurring the subject at zoom and blur the background. Try it with your current lens !

I would recommend the Canon 55-250 for telephoto. Make sure it is an IS (image stabilized) so it won't blur the subject when you are zoomed.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-4-0-5-6-Telephoto-Digital/dp/B0011NVMO8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377642465&sr=1-2&keywords=canon+lens

 

For flash I like the Canon 270 EX II.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-270EX-II-Speedlite-Cameras/dp/B004M8SWBK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377642494&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+flash+270ex+ii

 

I am not endorsing Amazon but showing the equipment at the low end. I have a T3i and these have served me well. To blur the background just turn the mode knob on top to the runner icon. This will freeze the subjects motion , keep it from blurring the subject at zoom and blur the background. Try it with your current lens !

Excellent advice as a step-up kit!

To the OP: As for Amazon, I will endorse it. Loyal, satisfied customer for years. I don't live near any really good camera stores and have relied on online research and Amazon's excellent service for much of my camera equipment.

Do not fear amazon. If you see "sold and shipped by Amazon" or even Adorama, who fulfills orders via Amazon, you have very little to worry about.

Dave

I agree with the others on the lens recommendation. (I agree on the use of Amazon/Adoroma for that matter.)

However, on the flash, I would recommend opting for the Canon Speedlite 430EX II. The 270EX is not a whole lot more powerful than the pop-up-flash on your camera. You are not gaining a lot over what you have. The 430 gives you more power, but yes it is more expensive.

Larry

I personally prefer to shop at B&H, another truly great camera store online

John

I've heard good things about the 55-250.

I second the suggestion on the 430ex. it is a little more expensive, but it gives you room to grow (as you can turn the flash head, and bounce flash). The 270ex faces forward only.

If money is a concern, you can look at 3rd party/generic flashes. A lighting forum I often read has many people suggesting Yongnuo 565ex or 568ex flashes. These are 580Ex clones that offer all the same functions at ~half the price. I believe they are maybe $30-40 more then the 270ex suggested...

I agree with the others on the lens recommendation. (I agree on the use of Amazon/Adoroma for that matter.)

 

However, on the flash, I would recommend opting for the Canon Speedlite 430EX II. The 270EX is not a whole lot more powerful than the pop-up-flash on your camera. You are not gaining a lot over what you have. The 430 gives you more power, but yes it is more expensive.

 

Larry

With a guide number of 22 versus 13 for the built in flash, the 270II offers almost twice the range. Doubling the range = quadrupling the power. The 430 is a nice but cost twice as much $169 vs. $299. The cost of the 430 exceeds the cost of the lens but the lens is much more useful. Since she indicated that she is on a budget I tried to honor her requests. For a good article on choosing a flash see the article.

http://speedlights.net/canon-speedlite-flash-270ex-ii/

I've heard good things about the 55-250.

 

I second the suggestion on the 430ex. it is a little more expensive, but it gives you room to grow (as you can turn the flash head, and bounce flash). The 270ex faces forward only.

 

If money is a concern, you can look at 3rd party/generic flashes. A lighting forum I often read has many people suggesting Yongnuo 565ex or 568ex flashes. These are 580Ex clones that offer all the same functions at ~half the price. I believe they are maybe $30-40 more then the 270ex suggested...

I have the 580ex and can vouch for it. Half the price of the Canon 430, and more powerful.

When it comes to off brand, though, don't try to go cheap. You need a flash to have ETTL, and the lower end Yongnuos don't have that, they are all manual.

Meredith

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a 420EX and when the 580EX II came out I bought one 5 years ago. It is the bomb. It works with wireless on my T4i and remote with the IR transmitter I also bought. I keep 2 sets of AA's for it and have the External Battery Pack with a spare battery tray and more sets of AA packs. This is what you need for Flash Range! I have yet to use the Pop Up flash on my last 3 cameras! Unless you are shooting a big Gig, you will only need the flash and not the extra battery packs and batteries.

The OP mentioned wanting to blur the background. I think you have some trouble doing this with the cheap kit lenses. You really need to get out if auto mode and into aperture mode and need a much faster lens than what has been sugested. A 70-200 (about the zoom range mentioned) with a max app of 2.8 or 4 will start around $1000 and go up from there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Forums mobile app

You can actually get some degree of background blur with the 55-250, even at f/5.6. But you have to focus close. It can be challenging to get in close, and it might not work in all situations, but in some cases you can be at least somewhat successful.

Take an afternoon and practice with taking photos at different distances away from you, with different focal lengths, then look at the results.

There are three things necessary for background blur.

The longer the focal length, the more background blur.

The closer the focus distance, the more background blur.

The larger the aperture, the more background blur.

... in diminishing order of importance.

Also, if you can increase separation between the foreground and background, that will also help.

Here is a photo I took with a 18-200mm lens; 200mm @ f/5.6:

And a similar photo at a focal length of 40mm.

Photos: Stacking Stones at Andicuri Bay (Natural Bridge) - Aruba

While it is always a good idea to have a fast aperture for the best background blur, you can substitute a long focal length if you don't have a fast aperture... at least to a degree.

Other suggestions:

Try eBay, you will have 100 percent money back with PayPal purchase and should save around 1/3 off new. Just buy from someone with a high rating.

With flash, use the bouncy option. It will give you much higher quality images.

Also, don't be disappointed if you do not see dolphins.....

One thing about Amazon. Over the years, I have purchased a lot of stuff from them, but occasionally I'll get in a product that looks like it was a previous customer return, or even borderline on used.

Also, many of their items are sold via Amazon Marketplace, which is really not much different than eBay's "buy-it-now" where any 3rd party company - or even an individual can sell.

While Amazon holds these vendors to high standards, you still have to be a bit careful. And some of the vendors are from China, and you will not know that until you find delivery takes a month.

I use it as #3, only if I cannot get what I need from Adorama or B&H.

The OP mentioned wanting to blur the background. I think you have some trouble doing this with the cheap kit lenses. You really need to get out if auto mode and into aperture mode and need a much faster lens than what has been sugested. A 70-200 (about the zoom range mentioned) with a max app of 2.8 or 4 will start around $1000 and go up from there.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Forums mobile app

Background blur is a function of depth of field, not price.;) Admittedly it is easier to get a shallow depth of field with a larger aperture (and therefore price) but as awboater showed, a little creative positioning can give the effect you want.

Not an extreme blur, but it had the effect I wanted and it was shot with my HX5V at a focal length of 4.25mm at f/8

NEX kit lens at 50mm f/5.6:

I agree that getting out of P mode is a must. A mode with a little creativity can boost the results from any lens.

Isn't the most important part of any camera the person holding it? :D

Dave

Agreed with Dave - though fast lenses with a nice wide aperture are best, and longer focal lengths make it easier, background blur is possible with almost any lens even at small apertures with a little effort and the right distances. Focal length, distance to subject, and subject distance to background will all determine how shallow the depth of field is, and how narrow the focus area. Even with cheap kit lenses, getting close to the subject and increasing subject distance to background can produce pretty nice blurred backgrounds. These are with a cheap 18-55mm kit lens:

These with a cheap 55-210mm F3.5-6.3 consumer zoom:

And this with an 18-250mm ultrazoom lens, at a zoo:

Are they as easy to nail supercrisp detail and gorgeous bokeh with beautiful blurred backgrounds full of perfect circles? No...but with a little work on distances and angles, even the el-cheapo kit lenses can do OK. Though I agree getting off Auto would probably be the best path to take a little control!

Wow, thank you all so much for all the great feedback! Some of it is over my head, but that's okay, I like to learn. I've taken a 3 hour photography course that I thought would help me at least get off auto, but it wasn't all that helpful unfortunately. I try and play around with the settings myself and read tutorials, so hopefully I'll slowly wean myself off one of these days.

As far as the flash, I'm leaning towards the 270EX II. I have a long way to go before I would know what to do with an adjustable flash. And plus, the price. I'd rather spend a little more a lens if I was going to do so. And regarding the lens, I'm still a little confused between the 55-220 and 75-300, something that was recommended to me by a photographer friend. She also recommended getting a light scoop as opposed to a flash, but I'm not sure that would give me the crisp, bright pics I'm going for. Any thoughts on those?

Thanks so much again!

You can actually get some degree of background blur with the 55-250, even at f/5.6. But you have to focus close. It can be challenging to get in close, and it might not work in all situations, but in some cases you can be at least somewhat successful.

 

Take an afternoon and practice with taking photos at different distances away from you, with different focal lengths, then look at the results.

 

There are three things necessary for background blur.

 

The longer the focal length, the more background blur.

The closer the focus distance, the more background blur.

The larger the aperture, the more background blur.

 

... in diminishing order of importance.

 

Also, if you can increase separation between the foreground and background, that will also help.

 

Here is a photo I took with a 18-200mm lens; 200mm @ f/5.6:

 

 

And a similar photo at a focal length of 40mm.

 

 

Photos: Stacking Stones at Andicuri Bay (Natural Bridge) - Aruba

 

While it is always a good idea to have a fast aperture for the best background blur, you can substitute a long focal length if you don't have a fast aperture... at least to a degree.

This was very helpful, thank you! I have been able to blur backgrounds using the lens that came with my camera, but it's usually by accident. As I said, I'm very much a beginner.

Check the weight of your lenses. I don't take my 50-200 f2f.8-3.5 on cruises, because it is too heavy to hand hold. Also check out Bryan Peterson's understanding exposure for how to take your camera of auto.

Sent from my KFJWA using Tapatalk HD

Check the weight of your lenses. I don't take my 50-200 f2f.8-3.5 on cruises, because it is too heavy to hand hold. Also check out Bryan Peterson's understanding exposure for how to take your camera of auto.

 

 

Sent from my KFJWA using Tapatalk HD

This is right on the money.

For a beginner, The Canon "Fantastic Plastic" is a fabulous lens for less than $100. It's the 50 1.8; Not a zoom. It give you great Bokeh as we seasoned photographers call that blur. When you are new using a fixed lens is a very good way to learn. You can learn exposure and not worry about focal length.

Bryan Peterson's book is exceptional. Also the KISS Guide to Digital Photography is a course unto itself.

The 55-250 is a better lens then the 75-300. You won't miss the extra 50mm. There is a 70-300 that is decent, I had this before I got my 70-200.

The 50 1.8 is another good lens. It was a wide aperture which let's in a lot of light and also gives you a shallow depth of field. It will take a little getting used to the shallow depth of field as you need to be accurate on what you're focusing on. I.e. if you focus on someone's nose their eyes maybe blurred. As a previous poster said, eliminating the zoom variable taking a picture will help you concentrate on composing the shot and adjusting your settings.

YouTube is a great resource. Adorama and BHPhoto have great educational series. I believe Bryan Petersen the author of the book the previous poster recommended (I highly recommend it too) does instructional videos on the Adorama channel. The videos are relatively short and informative. Most run less then 10 mins.

The 75-300 has a pretty bad reputation among Canon shooters I know. I'd recommend the Canon 55-250 is, or the Tamron 70-300 usd.

Background blur control is mostly about taking it off auto and into A mode.

At 200+ mm, you will easily get background blur as long as you're close enough to the subject. Sometimes the issue becomes a depth of field that is too narrow and too much is blurred!

Play with any lens in A mode, getting closer to your subject. A small A number will give more blur. A larger A number will cause less blur.

In terms of a flash giving bright SHARP pictures -- remember, photography is all about light. In auto mode, the camera is always compensating settings to get enough light for the exposure. It may decrease the shutter speed leading to blur. It may use a small aperture number (which is actually a large aperture, confusing I know), which leads to unwanted background blur.

So a flash gives that extra boost of light allowing for a faster shutter speed (eliminating motion blur) and/or closed aperture (getting rid of unwanted background blur).

Which is why flash pictures look so sharp.

But when not used carefully, a flash really takes away from a picture. The light may be too harsh. You may lose the background entirely (the effect where your subject is well lit and sharp, but the background becomes just dark shadow).

If you're going through the trouble of investing in an external flash, get one that is adjustable, that allows you to "bounce" the light. And learn to use it.

Otherwise, IMHO, you may as well stick with the pop up flash. The only advantage of a really basic external flash is slightly increased range.

Learning to use a bounce flash is easy -- as long as the ceiling in the room is white, tilt the flash up at about a 60 degree angle, and take the picture.

It creates a much more natural looking light, compared to a head on strong flash.