Dec 11 Seabourn Antarctic Cruise #2

Before we left for our Dec 11 Valparaiso-Buenos Aires cruise, I read with interest every morsel of information about the prior cruise. The following is offered in the assumption that others on later cruises may be watching for information as well. I may error in the direction of unnecessary detail…..if so, apologies.

The first nine days of this excursion have been nearly perfect.

We have been very fortunate with weather….sunny days for our stops in Ponte Montt, Castro, Chacabuca, Punta Arenas, and Ushuaia. The first day at sea out of Valparaiso was quite choppy/rough, but the seas of course calmed in the fjords. The “sight-seeing” days in the fjords were mostly cloudy with occasional showers, but pleasant viewing…..including the Amalia Glacier.

We were independent in Ponte Montt and Castro, but went on the kayak trip from Chacabuco (very good), the speedboat to Magdalena Island (excellent), and the catamaran at Ushuaia (very good).

Shortly after leaving Valparaiso we were informed that the itinerary had been changed—one less day sight-seeing in the fjords so that we would be in Ushuaia one day early, and therefore depart for Antarctica a day early as well.

We had wonderful smooth (by Drake Passage standards) seas yesterday and made better than expected time down, catching sight of the South Shetlands at about 4:00am this morning, the second morning out of Ushuaia, much earlier than expected. We had been told that today would be at sea, but shortly after 6:00am announcement was made in suites that the decision had been made to do our first landing immediately, while conditions were good. The landing site was Half Moon Island, a tiny island next to Livingston Island in the South Shetlands.

All passengers are assigned to one of five color groups….and it was announced that Purple would report at 7:30am, Green at 8:45, Red at 10:00, etc. Zodiac procedures were very smooth; and although the schedule was moved back a bit as the day progressed, announcements were frequent and kept everyone well informed. When our color was announced, we left the room fully clothed for shore. In the Club, we were helped into our lifejackets, and then went into the boot storage area on the back deck to put boots on. Twenty minutes from leaving the room, we were in the Zodiac, and ten minutes later we were on shore. Very smooth process.

The areas we could explore were clearly marked on shore, and members of the expedition team were positioned throughout to answer questions, direct us across penguin “highways”, etc. Chinstrap penguins were abundant, and very entertaining. Three Weddell Seals were lounging on the “beach”….not as entertaining. We were on shore for an hour and fifteen minutes; our GPS indicated our roundtrip walk totaled a bit over 2 miles. Skies overcast, some snow, light winds, 33 degrees. We were not cold, except for hands which too often had outer gloves off to take pictures. The entire walk was on packed snow, icy in spots. Walking sticks were helpful. (I would guess that a considerable part of the walk might be on rock or gravel later in the season, after some snow has melted or been worn off by visitors.)

The process of lifejackets, Zodiac, and return to ship was similarly smooth. We were back in our suite two hours and 30 minutes after we had left it.

Bottom line: Day #1 Antarctic experience was wonderful!

Thank you so much for an interesting informative report.

Kind regards,

Tony

I too am on the Quest now, and found your description spot on. I was very excited that we had a landing today -- a day earlier than we expected. I also was very impressed with with how smoothly the process of getting passengers geared up and into the zodiacs was.

This morning I started reading the previous very-long thread about the new upcoming Seabourn Antarctic cruises and got overwhelmed by the back-and-forth between 2 Cruise Critics, sometimes quite nasty. Good to be able to read some real time data and review info. Have a terrific time!

I think we have been doing the same as you GeneBK about finding information about these Antarctica cruises as this cruise is nothing like anything we have ever done

Thank you and the others of the last cruise very much for taking the time for these updates

Look after the Quest for us and we will see you when you get off at BA :)

GeneBK, lucky you to be having such good weather and to be able to get on the ice a day early. We found the Captain and the expedition crew did all they could to give us as much time possible on the ice - weather was our major problem. It really is a wonderful experience and to be honest, I can't wait to do it again. Is the ship full this trip and if so, do you find it crowded? Hope you continue to enjoy the trip.

How are you finding the parkas for warmth and also how bulky are they re fitting into a suitcase?

The parkas aren't terribly bulky, and shouldn't be too hard to fit into a suitcase.

There are two pieces. There's the inner quilted jacket, which is is extremely warm can be worn separately. It's much less bulky than the typical puffer jacket. Then, there's the orange outer jacket, which isn't bulky either.

During our landing yesterday, it was easy to tell people apart by the colors of their outer jackets: expedition team members wear yellow; Seabourn staff wear blue; and guests wear orange.

On another equipment topic: I encourage you to bring trekking poles. They collapse for packing, don't take a lot of space, and really help with stability when walking on slippery surfaces.

Antarctica Day #2---December 22---

As said in my earlier post, our first landing was yesterday at Half Moon Island. As I now understand it, after Robin West’s evening recap and briefing yesterday, it was an unexpected bonus landing for us. We had been assigned five landings, the first of which was scheduled for today. Half Moon Island was assigned yesterday to the Lindblad/National Geographic Explorer, which was in Ushuaia when we were. However, their departure from Ushuaia was delayed when 33 passengers had delayed luggage…..so they were unable to make their schedule and they offered us the landing “reservation”. A bonus for us.

Today, we again had excellent weather, and a smooth succession of all color groups going ashore in rotation. Sunny and warm (40 degrees)….layers were quickly removed and most ended up with bare hands and no hat. The site was Yankee Harbor on Greenwich Island. A flat site surrounded by mountains, the walking area was partly snow (crusty top which sometimes broke through, the foot sinking into the snow to the knee), and partly small stones and rocks. Covering the full circuit proved to be 2.3 miles of walking (some more difficult than yesterday), total time about one and half hours. Gentoo penguins and elephant seals were the attractions, as well as the sunshine and fresh air. The weather made the day very enjoyable, but for me the site had a bit less of the drama and feel of Antarctic character in the terrain.

Re: specific questions---parkas are comfortable, not bulky, and warm enough for the weather we've had so far. If we get a colder, windy day, extra layer beneath should do the job. (Although I say “not bulky”, I must admit that once fully clothed, hat on, hood up, and Zodiac life jacket on, I feel about as graceful as a penguin.)

We have a total of 434 passengers including the expedition team. It has not felt crowded, although many linger at breakfast and lunch, and table hunting for empty tables is sometime a challenge. This has eased on landing days, since the Zodiac rotation alters everyone’s schedule.

GeneBK, thank you so much for the information you've shared. I appreciate knowing how loading the zodiacs and handling of the landings and walks are done. Have you noticed if there's opportunity to join a group that does a bit less walking than the usual? I plan on taking trekking poles when we go, but it would be nice to know if there are some options.

Continue to have a wonderful cruise.

Dec 23---Day #3 Antarctica

At last evening’s Recap/Briefing, we were told we were leaving the South Shetlands, heading for the Antarctic Sound, where we would arrive by midnight. The Captain and team would then evaluate the ice condition to determine our options for Day #3. It was hoped that we would make landing at Brown Bluff. Weather forecast was for clear skies, early calm, with winds likely to develop in the later morning. Thus, an early schedule was announced---first color group to assemble at 5:30am, second at 6:45, etc.

We were also told that the ice in the Antarctic sound and the prospect for clear skies meant a memorable sunrise would be worth getting up early. Early indeed…..sunrise would be about 2:30am. (I can’t report on the beauty of this…..the days have been delightfully long and active, and we chose to sleep until 6:00am).

Upon arising, we were greeted by a beautiful blue sky, brilliant sunshine, calm winds, and gorgeous views. However, we learned that there was too much ice in the Sound to permit safe landing at Brown Bluff, and the ship had relocated to Hope Bay. We would not have a landing today, but were instead being given Zodiac tours around the ice formations, on the same schedule of rotation. The first three color groups accomplished this, but shortly after the fourth group had begun, it was announced that the winds had increased, and the ice was closing in on the ship. All Zodiacs were called back and passengers boarded the ship as quickly and safely as possible. We were in the fourth color group, and were awaiting our Zodiac when the announcement came, so we did not make it off the ship. Those in the earlier groups reported it was an enjoyable experience.

Once the passengers were on board, the loading platform and the Marina (where most Zodiacs are stored) were raised, and we quickly moved away from the rapidly approaching ice. The Zodiacs were still in the water, and moved beside the ship in a small flotilla as we relocated. Once safely relocated, the Marina was again lowered, and the Zodiacs came on board.

We then proceed across the Sound to come close to a huge tabular iceberg….an opportunity for excellent pictures.

We then left the Sound and re-entered the Bransfield Strait, heading southwest along the Peninsula towards a position where the team could assess our options for Day #4. The afternoon provided distant views of the Peninsula, along with innumerable passing icebergs.

LoveBora---shore activity is entirely independent, not a group thing. Once we exit the Zodiac in the "wet landing", an expedition team leader explains the area that is available to explore, and there are flags marking paths and expedition team members distributed over the flagged paths and area, mostly to answer questions and tell you where you can't go. One can walk a little or a lot....linger long for particular pictures (like at a penguin rookery), or snap a couple and move on. Once you've had enough, you return to the Zodiac landing point, and wait for the next available Zodiac back to the ship (usually only a 5-10 minute wait). Some passengers have returned after only 20-30 minutes....others remain for the full 75 minutes (or maybe a little more :)) Some have covered a lot of ground, others just a short stroll.

Thanks sooo very much for the wonderful comments about your experiences on the Antarctica Cruise. We are on the Jan 22 sailing. Just a question about dress code for MDR while you have been in the Antarctica, is it jeans & sweaters casual or regular "jackets suggested"?

Really appreciate your comments, very very helpful.

Thanks:)

GeneBK, I suspect that there are hundreds, like us, booked on the later Antarctica cruises who are hanging on your every word and can't wait for the next 'installment'. If you have time and could add a little "life on board" background, that would be great. -Only if it doesn't interfere with your enjoyment of the trip, obviously.

Thanks again

I've had dinner in the MDR most nights on this cruise, and most people are following the suggested attire, which alternates between resort casual and elegantly casual. Haven't seen anyone eating dinner in the MDR wearing casual jeans.

So far, there has been one formal-optional night. I didn't count noses, but my impression was that about 1/3 of the men were in black tie, with the balance in a dark suits or jackets and ties. There will be a total of three formal-optional nights on this voyage.

Hope this helps.

If you are the delightful couple who were on our trivia team on Azamara Quest's Transatlantic in November, we would like to wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. We talked about you going on this trip and how much we would love to have been able to join you.

Of course, we send all of you who are enjoying what sounds like an amazing experience on Seabourn Quest our very best wishes - and we are so envious! Antarctica is most definitely on our bucket list.

Elaine and Ray

Dec 24---Day #4 Antarctica

Another good day. The ship was positioned in Paradise Harbor, off Waterboat Point, where Chile’s Gonzalez Videla Station is located (small summer-only research center manned by 12 members of the Chilean military). Weather was overcast, light winds, calm harbor, temperatures mid 30’s. First color group called per schedule at 8:00am, with the other four groups following at 75 minute intervals. The site is a bit cramped, but once on shore there was a short walk past several penguin groups, and the glorious Paradise Harbor was a perfect photo backdrop in all directions. At present, most of the site is still snow covered, slippery in narrow high-traffic paths, mushy where the snow was deeper and less disturbed. We could also look into most of the buildings, as well as a museum/“souvenir shop”. The site itself did not provide a sense of Antarctic adventure, but it was interesting, the scenery in all directions was spectacular. The Zodiac rides in and out were highlighted by some wonderful iceberg “sculptures” which the Zodiacs would weave through slowly.

Dec 25---Day #5 Antarctica

At the evening briefing after Day #4, Robin West mentioned high wind forecast for this day…..and there were worries that we wouldn’t be able do landings. But, Mother Nature gave us a real Christmas present. Light winds, high clouds with the sun trying hard to break through, and calm waters next to Cuverville Island. This, for me, was by far the best of the landings. There was a marked path, at beach level, in both directions to view penguin rookeries, but there was also a vast uphill area which we were free to explore. We hiked upwards for nearly a mile, and reached an elevation of 400’….doesn’t sound like much, but satisfying work in knee deep snow for part of the way. The expedition team had created a footstep ladder which helped on the early steep stretch, and later the snow was more wind packed and one could walk on top. Many guests didn’t go up the hill, some went partway, some higher. Again, independent options. The views in all directions were breathtaking. Our color group was the last in rotation, so there was no way to stretch on shore time a bit….the last Zodiac was the last Zodiac! This was the one time I felt a bit frustrated to not have more time ashore, but the day was glorious and I could only be thankful for what we had. The final piece of fun was sliding down the steeper part of the hill, toboggan style (but without a toboggan). Snow made it into several layer of clothes, but it was lots of fun.

Keep in mind—our experiences are based on Dec 20-25 conditions. As the “summer” progresses, conditions will undoubtedly change, in many ways……less snow, many penguin chicks (we still mostly see nest-sitting), etc.

Dec 26---

On the original itinerary, this was to be our fifth day of Antarctica, but as previously posted we got here early and had the good fortune of making an unscheduled landing on “Day #0”. Going into the evening wrap-up/briefing Dec 25, we still expected that we were heading back to the South Shetlands for one more landing or Zodiac tour. And, that had indeed been the plan throughout the day. However, at the meeting, Robin announced that he and the captain had come up with a last minute change in plan. Having had five successful days in Antarctic, we would bypass the South Shetlands and speed onward to arrive at South Georgia Island a day early. This will give us three days in South Georgia, rather than the two scheduled. (Our itinerary is the only one this winter making the South Georgia call.) They strongly believe this change provides better variety.

So we are presently at sea for two days, and our Antarctic Experience common to all itineraries, is concluded. It is an absurd understatement to say----we have been most fortunate….the experience has been wonderful....more than we dared hope for.

Re: life on board. The usual mix of standard activities....dance lessons, bridge, trivia, etc. etc. In all honesty, we've never done much of this sort of thing, so I don't know the level of participation. Fitness room has been well utilized, but there has always been at least a machine or two available when I've gone there. There are three to four lectures from the expedition team throughout the day.....photography, wildlife, science/geology, etc. Add the constant camera grab to go outside at Seabourn Square or the Observation Bar. I certainly haven't heard any complaints of boredom!

Once again GeneBK thank you very much for taking the time to write your updates. We have been looking forward to each one and hope the rest of your cruise goes well for you

We're long time cruisers and fans of Cruise Critic. Friends Ed and Buffy from DC are aboard and having a wonderful time so we're checking in from time to time. Are you following the stranded Russian 'cruise ship' Akademik Shokalskiy ? Just wondering if they are anywhere near you all. How nice if you could pipe them aboard for some hot cocoa and brandy!

Cruisecritic001 -- I'm afraid we weren't the couple you met on your Azmara cruise. Thanks for the holiday good wishes, however -- best wishes to you as well.

FYI - the Quest arrived at South Georgia Island this morning. It's absolutely spectacular, and once again we've been fortunate to have excellent weather. We did a zodiac tour around Cooper Bay this morning -- the area teams with wildlife and the mountain scenery is outstanding. So far, this has been -- for me, anyway -- the highlight of the cruise.

In recent days, I learned that "brochure cruise" is a term used describe a voyage on which the stars align to deliver an experience that matches the glossy travel brochures. The Quest experience in Antarctica and South Georgia Island (SGI) definitely qualifies. While the experience is still fresh (I'm writing en route to Montevideo), I thought I'd share some thoughts.

The expedition team is superb. Robin West and his group have extensive experience bringing people to Antarctica and it really showed. Every step was well thought-out and executed. All of the expedition staff were very friendly, patient with us newbie guests, and really seem to enjoy what they do. Members of the team were stationed on around the ship to answer questions, identify wildlife, provide information about islands we passed, offer tips on digital photography etc. They were also stationed around landing sites to answer questions.

There was a pleasant, laid-back atmosphere on the ship. On sea days and in Antarctica and SGI, many passengers spent their days on deck with their cameras and binoculars (FYI - Seabourn provided a pair of loaner binoculars to each cabin for use during the voyage -- a nice touch). When there were major sightings (e.g., a mother whale and calf beside the ship), an announcement was made over the PA.

At the outset of the voyage, Robin West emphasized that everyone must be flexible when visiting this region due to rapidly changing weather/wind/ice conditions. West, his team, the Captain, and his crew, did just that. They did a great job taking advantage of favorable developments (like our extremely rapid crossing of the Drake Passage, which got us to Antarctica and SGI a day early) and less favorable ones (when weather conditions forced a planned landing at Brown Bluff to be cancelled, they moved the ship to a different site and were able to offer zodiac tours).

Ours is the only Seabourn voyage that visits SGI this year - the others visit the Falklands instead. My husband and I had initially been inclined to select a Falklands itinerary (in part simply because we'd heard of the Falklands). But, as we read about SGI, we became quite excited about visiting there.

We're very happy we decided to go with the SGI itinerary. Granted, we were blessed with unusually fine weather, and that definitely colors our views. But our time at SGI was absolutely magical. I urge readers of this board who are considering an Antarctic cruise not to focus exclusively on the Falklands. SGI is definitely worth considering.

In sum, this trip has exceeded our expectations. My husband and I weren't interested in an expedition trip -- we wanted more creature comforts. But we also wanted to get some on-land experience -- we didn't want to be limited to scenic cruising. This cruise is a great fit for us.

It's great that this has worked out so well for you. Keep enjoying.

Many thanks for all your posts and I am glad that you have enjoyed the cruise. We are at the airport en-route to Buenos Aires and join Quest on January 4th (please leave some champagne). Your comments have certainly added to our sense of excitement and expectation.

We are booked on the Jan 4 Seabourn Antarctica departure and getting detailed descriptions of experience from the trips preceding are very valuable. I hope to be able to provide some information to this board once our Antarctica trip #3 gets underway. Overall it sounds like great cruise.

Thank you DC traveler. We are waiting for you in Buenos Aries and excitement building. So good to hear such encouraging reports. After booking the Falklands trip, I read other accounts of the spectacular SGI and wished I'd taken that cruise. Next time, maybe

Currently in Santiago awaiting our next leg. Quite a few on board our flight on the cruise