Live from Havana on Marina

Sitting in Terrace Cafe with peanut butter cookie and a cappuccino and thought I'd tell those who will be stopping here some helpful tips.

Arrived yesterday morning about 7 am but couldn't dock right away as pilot captain was ushering another vessel in. While we waited, the enrichment lecturer was on bridge giving commentary as we floated into the bay and cruise terminal.

I was officially the 5th one off (we had tour scheduled for Havana arts, yesterday, today and tomorrow). DH followed rules and got tickets and waited for us to be called for tour bus. I wanted to see Havana as she woke up with sleep still in her eyes. She did not disappoint. More on that in moment.

Customs, oh, customs. Probably the weakest link in Cuba's chain at the moment. As we walked into the terminal, it wasn't clear which numbered booth they wanted us to go into. Once in front of agent, it was ALL glasses off, do not smile barked at you, hats off too, one woman was even instructed to put her hair behind her ears. Then picture taken, some had visa's that we received upon check in at Miami, taken, others did not. Once through that, you then walked a ways and put everything in in for security viewing. At the end of the hall was currency exchange. For $100 US we received 87 CUC's. They take a 10% fee on top of the exchange rate. (When I exchanged today I received 87 CUC's and .15 cents.

Hint: ask for 1's, 5's and 10's. First day we got all 20's and we didn't want to give guide or driver that generous of tip. Then down the stairs and out the door.

First impression - classic cars, horse drawn carriages, busses, tour operators, the equivalent of tuck-tucks, all the sights and sounds of a vibrant city just coming into her own after a long absence. There is definitely an underground economy here. Asked many times for private tours, always politely, we had to say no as we were headed on arts tour.

Hint: flexibility is a must. Because of the customs delays, many of the tours departed later than expected. Guides didn't understand that a 3-1/2 hour tour needed to be condensed. They just knew what all they were supposed to show and by gosh they did.

Meals times on board were extended and stretched. They even accommodated guests who thought they were eating with the Nationical hotel evening tour but turned out not. I heard from several that they went to the hotel and sat waiting for show to start almost 2 hours later. We went to the Tropicana cabaret, eating the fabulous Cuban buffet served in Terrace before we left. When we got back on ship at 12:30 am, we were told they were serving late night buffet for those who might be hungry.

Postcards can be found for .70 CUCs with postage being .75 cent stamp for any international destination. Hint: kiosks will try to sell you whatever stamps they have including an .85 stamp. You can also use your shipboard account to mail them, they give to local agent to mail and add postage. Oceania charges $1 US, just have at reception by 4 pm as sometimes the agent leaves earlier than the ship. And you certainty don't want your Cuba postcards stamped from Ne of your other ports.

So, are the tours worth it? For the convenience and security that Oceania offers, maybe. For less expensive option, seems to be easy to go out the terminal and walk across the street and pick your horse or auto, then choose car color, convertible or cabriolet. Rates are 50 CUCs for 1 hour tour, 100 for 2 hours, etc. Hint: we found that late afternoon on first day was ideal - about 5 pm as everyone seemed to have gone home for the day and traffic was off peak.

We took the Tropicana tour that departed about 9 pm, took 30 minutes to arrive. You are out in groups of four for table seating. Venue holds 1000, it was 3/4 full. Ours was outside, wore short sleeve dress, took sweater but never used. Every four people will get a large bottle of Havana Club dark rum to share, 4 8 oz. bottles of coke, a bucket of ice and peanuts. We also received champagne with a strawberry in it just after we sat down. When we first arrived, men received a sealed cigar, the women a carnation. I protested to guide who obtained a cigar after the show. All this was included in the price of the tour. The table next to us were not drinkers at all and we received their full rum ration and brought it back to the ship. Do not try singing yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum when you return! Oceania staff dealing with crabby cruisers!

More later, my table is being cleared for waiting hungry diners. Please feel free to ask questions and I will try to answer.

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Thanks for posting your experience.

I've read only bad things about the experience of arriving to Cuba, whether by ship or plane.

I think I'll pass until they figure it out.

Thanks for posting your experience.

I've read only bad things about the experience of arriving to Cuba, whether by ship or plane.

I think I'll pass until they figure it out.

Don't wait! Their customs is no worse than the US customs, only different. Go now, NOT later as when more Americans start to travel to Cuba, it will loose it's unique ambiance. As a Canadian, eh, our Government can NOT stop us from travelling anywhere, hence we have been travelling to Cuba forever! You have a unique opportunity to visit Cuba now before the influx of Americans.

Enjoy!

Customs, oh, customs. Probably the weakest link in Cuba's chain at the moment. As we walked into the terminal, it wasn't clear which numbered booth they wanted us to go into. Once in front of agent, it was ALL glasses off, do not smile barked at you, hats off too, one woman was even instructed to put her hair behind her ears. Then picture taken, some had visa's that we received upon check in at Miami, taken, others did not. Once through that, you then walked a ways and put everything in in for security viewing.

 

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just to clarify

Does everyone have to get photos taken?

Do they return the Visa/tourist card to you so you can use it the next day??

Any problem leaving the ship day 2?

TIA

Lyn

Thanks for the info and keep it coming, please! I go in December.

Thanks! We're looking forward to your thoughts as we cruise there in May 2018.

Question: If you are a US citizen, we were under the impression you had to do a ship sponsored People to People Program excursion authorized by the State Department after you made it through Cuban Customs. I realize most non US citizens can do as they wish, but did you get the impression US citizens could go off on their own on a private excursion as well?

Sitting in Terrace Cafe with peanut butter cookie and a cappuccino and thought I'd tell those who will be stopping here some helpful tips.

 

Arrived yesterday morning about 7 am but couldn't dock right away as pilot captain was ushering another vessel in. While we waited, the enrichment lecturer was on bridge giving commentary as we floated into the bay and cruise terminal.

 

I was officially the 5th one off (we had tour scheduled for Havana arts, yesterday, today and tomorrow). DH followed rules and got tickets and waited for us to be called for tour bus. I wanted to see Havana as she woke up with sleep still in her eyes. She did not disappoint. More on that in moment.

 

Customs, oh, customs. Probably the weakest link in Cuba's chain at the moment. As we walked into the terminal, it wasn't clear which numbered booth they wanted us to go into. Once in front of agent, it was ALL glasses off, do not smile barked at you, hats off too, one woman was even instructed to put her hair behind her ears. Then picture taken, some had visa's that we received upon check in at Miami, taken, others did not. Once through that, you then walked a ways and put everything in in for security viewing. At the end of the hall was currency exchange. For $100 US we received 87 CUC's. They take a 10% fee on top of the exchange rate. (When I exchanged today I received 87 CUC's and .15 cents.

 

Hint: ask for 1's, 5's and 10's. First day we got all 20's and we didn't want to give guide or driver that generous of tip. Then down the stairs and out the door.

 

First impression - classic cars, horse drawn carriages, busses, tour operators, the equivalent of tuck-tucks, all the sights and sounds of a vibrant city just coming into her own after a long absence. There is definitely an underground economy here. Asked many times for private tours, always politely, we had to say no as we were headed on arts tour.

 

Hint: flexibility is a must. Because of the customs delays, many of the tours departed later than expected. Guides didn't understand that a 3-1/2 hour tour needed to be condensed. They just knew what all they were supposed to show and by gosh they did.

 

Meals times on board were extended and stretched. They even accommodated guests who thought they were eating with the Nationical hotel evening tour but turned out not. I heard from several that they went to the hotel and sat waiting for show to start almost 2 hours later. We went to the Tropicana cabaret, eating the fabulous Cuban buffet served in Terrace before we left. When we got back on ship at 12:30 am, we were told they were serving late night buffet for those who might be hungry.

 

Postcards can be found for .70 CUCs with postage being .75 cent stamp for any international destination. Hint: kiosks will try to sell you whatever stamps they have including an .85 stamp. You can also use your shipboard account to mail them, they give to local agent to mail and add postage. Oceania charges $1 US, just have at reception by 4 pm as sometimes the agent leaves earlier than the ship. And you certainty don't want your Cuba postcards stamped from Ne of your other ports.

 

So, are the tours worth it? For the convenience and security that Oceania offers, maybe. For less expensive option, seems to be easy to go out the terminal and walk across the street and pick your horse or auto, then choose car color, convertible or cabriolet. Rates are 50 CUCs for 1 hour tour, 100 for 2 hours, etc. Hint: we found that late afternoon on first day was ideal - about 5 pm as everyone seemed to have gone home for the day and traffic was off peak.

 

We took the Tropicana tour that departed about 9 pm, took 30 minutes to arrive. You are out in groups of four for table seating. Venue holds 1000, it was 3/4 full. Ours was outside, wore short sleeve dress, took sweater but never used. Every four people will get a large bottle of Havana Club dark rum to share, 4 8 oz. bottles of coke, a bucket of ice and peanuts. We also received champagne with a strawberry in it just after we sat down. When we first arrived, men received a sealed cigar, the women a carnation. I protested to guide who obtained a cigar after the show. All this was included in the price of the tour. The table next to us were not drinkers at all and we received their full rum ration and brought it back to the ship. Do not try singing yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum when you return! Oceania staff dealing with crabby cruisers!

 

More later, my table is being cleared for waiting hungry diners. Please feel free to ask questions and I will try to answer.

Thank you so much for taking the time to post. Some great tips. Forgot about sending postcards.

Did you enjoy the Tropicana show? It is pretty expensive through O but they do get you back.

Was getting off the ship on day 2 (hope you had a day2!) simpler? Were you just able to walk off. That is what we experienced in Istanbul, day 1 official, day 2 all cleared, no formalities.

Do not try singing yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum when you return!

Don't let the Customs formalities dissuade you - after all we non US persons suffer worse at the hands of your USA Immigration agents - we are fingerprinted AND have to take off glasses, tuck hair back etc for a photograph. Not great fun and neither are the US Immigration people - at least not to non Americans!

To LHT28 -

yes, everyone gets photographed the first time you go through customs. After that they just looked at your passport, remember to look grumpy or they look at passport, then you a couple of times!

The first time I came back through to the ship, I asked the clerk if he would stamp it. I honestly hadn't looked to see if they had done so when we arrived. (I had gotten a male clerk this time) who spoken broken English who called various colleagues over and in the end with great fanfare they stamped me out of the country. It was never mentioned while going on and off the ship by any of the customs people that I had the exit stamped already. Husband only has the one arrival stamp that says Cuba in his.

For the most part, they take the pre filled Visa and just look at your passport each and every time you go through. They do this under a counter, they sit low, you are standing at counter height and can't see what the do below except keep looking at you and your passport.

They don't always understand English, or pretend not to. Don't let customs be the reason you don't come, I think this is just a hitch in their growing pains. They have lifetime jobs whether or not they are good at them or even if they care. Once through customs you are free as a bird to go and do. Day 1 - very official and time consuming, day 2 a little less so but you discover you've adapted to the idiosyncrasies of Cuba. Going with the flow..

We didn't see many police and saw no military presence except the one bored soldier standing by the tank at the military museum across from the main museum. We waved, he waved back and then went back to examining his hands.

There was virtually no panhandling. They might have peanuts (for birds, not people) or handicrafts to sell, but you say no thanks, they are okay. Lots of artists who will do quick (under a minute!) caricature portrait for $5 or $10 CUC.

Many of the young women's uniforms are skirts - mini skirts in fact. This seems to be the way they express themselves, in their stockings. Always black, but think fishnet with patterns. Boring shoes, drab brownish uniforms but fun stockings! I think that is the dichotomy of Cuba.

Tropicana was worth the tour price for not knowing what we were getting. It is 30 minutes away ( there wasn't much traffic, so wasn't because it was close ). We had guide on board bus who gave good commentary, escorted us to tables down in front ( we were packed into the venue) so got great viewing which brought out the smartphones and cameras for pictures. Husband paid $5 CUC for picture taking privilege, other couple we sat with did not and he took pictures and videos with abandon. No one ever looked at receipt or came by to check. You could forgo that extra expense.

On second day walking tour of old Colonial Havana we had guide that didn't project well. Guide next to us did so we got to hear some of his. In the beginning all 5 walking tours ended up in square right across the street and we were given 10 minutes (remember they have tour instructions they don't seem to deviate from) and here are 120 Oceania guest milling about ready to move on to next point of interest. Fortunately we deviated down a different street. Eventually ended up near liquor/cigar store (small inside) for purchases. I bought a 35 cl (bigger than hip flask, same shaped bottle but bigger) of Havana club anejo reverse dark rum for $5 CUC. A 750 ml cost between $16 CUC and $22 CUC depending on age and light, medium or dark. At the cruise terminal the bottle I bought was $3 CUC. I had not checked before I went out because nothing was open when I had come through for tour. Cigars were $25 CUC for 4 coin as, approx. 5-6 in he's long. Diameter of US nickel. Didn't check terminal prices. We were told not to buy from street sellers as the leaves used would be inferior and to only buy from government shops.

Beautiful sail away at end of day. Exhausted but thrilled to be on Oceania's second sailing. Thank you FDR for rearranging the itinerary's to accommodate something in our backyard that has only been able to be viewed and not touched. Enjoy touching - the

memories that you take away are what it feels to discovers something unique that so few others have had the opportunity to do. Enjoyed it all. Viva Cuba!

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Sorry spell check got the cigar portion muddled. 4 Cohibas, 5-6 inches long

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Is the city within walking distance from the ship?

Terminal just across the stree

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I totally appreciate that the US customs experience for non-Americans is dreadful. If I weren't American I would avoid traveling here.

I'm often embarrassed by the "welcome" people get when they arrive to a US airport,

I totally appreciate that the US customs experience for non-Americans is dreadful. If I weren't American I would avoid traveling here.

I'm often embarrassed by the "welcome" people get when they arrive to a US airport,

To be fair, these are very different times we live in post 9/11. We all know about today's "airport experiences" post 9/11 vs how we could walk all the way to the gate to see our family off or welcome them home at the gate.

People arriving into US need to be vetted a lot more than those arriving to Uruguay, for example (or Cuba, for that matter). Today's potential for terrorism puts fingerprinting and picture taking into a different perspective.

You cannot tell by just looking at someone whether they represent potential threat to our security; checking their fingerprints and pictures against data collected for potential terrorists will reduce the chances of unwanted people getting into the country with a smile on their face and a false passport.

Meh.

I was here in NYC during 9/11 and witnessed it - so the gravity of the situation isn't lost on me.

It's no excuse for a lack of appropriate staffing and courtesy.

To LHT28 -

 

yes, everyone gets photographed the first time you go through customs. After that they just looked at your passport, remember to look grumpy or they look at passport, then you a couple of times!

 

Thanks for the information

Did you notice if the HOHO bus came to the port area??

Lyn

Thanks! We're looking forward to your thoughts as we cruise there in May 2018.

 

Question: If you are a US citizen, we were under the impression you had to do a ship sponsored People to People Program excursion authorized by the State Department after you made it through Cuban Customs. I realize most non US citizens can do as they wish, but did you get the impression US citizens could go off on their own on a private excursion as well?

I have read elsewhere that U S citizen can wander freely they need to keep a record of their movements so make sure they fall under the rule of visiting Cuba

I think all people that leave from a US port also have to do this not matter their citizenship

You can check under the link for Cuba for more info

https://www.oceaniacruises.com/faq/

Check the Cuba forum also

Great info, slw. Much appreciated. A reminder to everyone from U.S. headed to Cuba: If you exchange Euros or Canadian dollars for CUCs, there is no 10 percent fee. Visit a currency exchange shop before leaving home.

We did NOT have to keep any record of our movements. You are truly able to go wherever the mode of transportation takes you. Cruise terminal had limited number of maps, however it turns out to be a full sized country map and nothing specific to Havana. If you get lost, stop someone and they are most helpful to point you where you want to go.

Hoho bus stops just across from terminal next to the square. However, before you cross the street, you will get many guides asking if you'd like a taxi - this can be those tuck tucks, regular taxi or classic car. If you want to make your own choice, just cross at the striped section (mandatory for vehicles to stop on both sides, so don't hesitate - walk confidently) and turn right. 20 steps in front of you is the taxi que. walk 100 steps and there are quadruple more vehicles to choose from.

Just had cooking class, Cuban family table, with Chef Karlis.

He showed the Havana Club white rum bottle made in Puerto Rico and the bottle of Havana Club he purchased in Havana and made our mojito's with. A few of us stayed behind to do taste test (research just for cruise critic patrons!) of the two and the Cuban version was definitely not as smooth as the Puerto Rican version. However, we thought the mojito was better than what we get in US. The added ingredients helped smooth it out. Buy a bottle and try to see how refined your palate is.

The right to use the Havana Club name is currently in front of the international legal community - especially if Cuban embargoes are lifted in the world community.

Diverting to Cozumel for a medical emergency - passenger suffered heart attack in gym this morning.

Love these lazy sea days. General Manager onboard is Thierry Tholon, Executive concierge is Randall Abrahams, Captain is Luca Manzi, and brand new to Oceania is Paul Grant. Artist in residence is Geri Gventer and her husband, Mark is the Photographer in residence giving classes as well.

Off to lecture, then bingo. Love these lazy sea days.

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Thank you for all information. We travel in December and you have answered so many of our questions.

...cooking class, Cuban family table, with Chef Karlis. He showed the Havana Club white rum bottle made in Puerto Rico and the bottle of Havana Club he purchased in Havana and made our mojito's with. A few of us stayed behind to do taste test (research just for cruise critic patrons!) of the two and the Cuban version was definitely not as smooth as the Puerto Rican version. However, we thought the mojito was better than what we get in US. The added ingredients helped smooth it out. Buy a bottle and try to see how refined your palate is.

 

The right to use the Havana Club name is currently in front of the international legal community - especially if Cuban embargoes are lifted in the world community.

Here's a link to a July 2016 WASHINGTON POST article, about the competing Havana Club rum of Cuba and of Puerto Rico. The Havana Club rum now being made in Puerto Rico by Bacardi although that name appears nowhere on the label. Bacardi is not claiming their current product is the exact formula of the original Havana Club. At the least, the technology is different. However, Bacardi claims their product is more faithful to the original than the product currently selling in Cuba. The story behind this liquor is complicated and reading the article takes concentration, at the least because both products bear the name Havana Club. Here's the link to the article about both rums in the WASHINGTON POST.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/busine...

The WAPO did a taste test of the two Havana Club rums and included bottles of two other rums effectively serving as controls. If you aren't that interested in the legal backing and forthing and the history, skip down to the end to read the results of the tasting.

We have an overnight stop in Havana on our cruise next month and have a question concerning currency exchange. We are aware CUC cannot be brought back to the US. Do you have to exchange currency each time you disembark and re-embark?

We have an overnight stop in Havana on our cruise next month and have a question concerning currency exchange. We are aware CUC cannot be brought back to the US. Do you have to exchange currency each time you disembark and re-embark?

If you did not buy enough to last you for your time ashore you would need to buy more for next shoreside trip

We have an overnight stop in Havana on our cruise next month and have a question concerning currency exchange. We are aware CUC cannot be brought back to the US. Do you have to exchange currency each time you disembark and re-embark?

Clarification: We found we could convert our CUC back to USD for quantities in excess of $20. Anything less than that we were stuck with and we brought it back to the US. (We gave it to friends who had plans to visit Cuba four months after our return.)

In the US, we were asked bout Cuban rum and cigars, but no one asked us about Cuban money. (The rum and cigar restriction is no longer in effect.) I suspect the US authorities know about the Cuban $20 policy, assume many travelers will have $20 or fewer CUC, and simply aren't going to bother tracking down such small amounts of money.

When you're on the ship overnight, you're still "in" Cuba. You're in Cuban territorial water, but you're in Cuba. That means I'd be shocked if you will be expected to exchange your money each time you walk on or off the gangway. Boarding for the last time is a different story.

Thank you. This is very helpful.