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Fogging of camera lens


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I love to take photographs, but am not a photographer. I have checked out different blogs, and reviews from people who have taken Antarctic cruises, but I have yet to find an answer to my question. People talk about running outside to take photographs because of the amazing sights that they see on the cruise. I have found that my camera lens, or whatever is affecting my photo clarity, becomes fogged up when I go from the indoors to the outdoors quickly. Is there something that others have found, or some technique that I should use, that would allow me to capture the moment? Alternatively, should I just enjoy the moment without a camera? Thank you for any assistance you can provide.

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Lenses will fog when going from a cold environment to warm and humid. This is a problem when in the tropics and going outside from the air conditioning.

 

When it's cold outside you will be ok taking the camera out from where it's warm into the cold. The fogging will occur when going back inside. It has been known to cause problems with electronics when the boards get wet. To prevent this you can take an air tight bag and put the camera into it and sealing it before bringing it back inside. I have also heard of people leaving their gear in a cold area and just bringing the memory cards indoors.

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I have used Repti-Therm reptile tank heaters for years to keep my gear warm while in the cabin. It is a low-wattage heating pad designed to keep pet reptiles' terrarium tanks at a livable temperature and is perfect for keeping camera equipment above the dew point.

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCKA

 

I set it in my bag, plug it in and close the flap. When I take the camera or lenses out in the morning, everything is 85°-90° and immune to condensation.

 

 

Dave

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I have felt the heartache and anguish of fogged lenses. I've found wrapping lenses in laundry usually provides enough insulation to keep lenses close enough to the outside ambient temperature that they don't fog. At night, I pile up the unused blanket around my rig.

 

For a quick(ish) solution, I've tucked lenses under my shirt or between my legs if I'm seated. Sure, you'd look ridiculous and may draw some looks, but it works.

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In a pinch, I have used the hair dryer. I hold the camera in my hand to make sure the heat isn't too intense. It doesn't take much of a rise in temperature to match the outside temp but make sure you heat the back of the camera to warm the sensor. If you don't, it may fog as soon as you zoom the lens and it sucks in the warm, moist air.

 

Still, the reptile heater stuck in the bag has been the best method yet.

 

Dave

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I do like the idea of a bag heater. Must look into those and see if they are available locally. I assume that they are 110V and I would require a 240V model.

 

Back to tho OP, who says ;

 

I have checked out different blogs, and reviews from people who have taken Antarctic cruises, but I have yet to find an answer to my question. People talk about running outside to take photographs because of the amazing sights that they see on the cruise.

 

If cruising in Arctic or Antarctic waters there will not be a problem going outdoors as you will be moving into cold dry air. This will not cause condensation. Before going inside, place your camera/lens in a hermetically sealed plastic bag. The condensation will settle on the bag and will disappear when it has reached room temperature. Inside the bag, the air coming from the outside is drier. As a result, condensation is limited and the evaporation time is much faster.

 

The other tips above are great for going out into warm and humid places.

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I do like the idea of a bag heater. Must look into those and see if they are available locally. I assume that they are 110V and I would require a 240V model.

 

http://www.mypetwarehouse.com.au/urs-heat-mat-10w-15x25cm-small-p-15279

 

Seems to be a popular chain down under.

 

Keep in mind that while cruising, 110V is widely available in the cabins.

 

Dave

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Thanks for that Dave.

 

Not an expensive accessory. This cruise was my first and am not planning any more at present, but never say never. Most of my travels are in places where 220-240V is the standard. The ship was the first place I have been where it's 110V. Luckily with switch mode power supplies now most gear will use either standard and 50hz or 60hz too. These being a resistive load would be voltage sensitive.

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Thanks so much for the information provided. I will definitely use some of these suggestions.

 

The issue I had last year, was from going back and forth from inside (warm) to outside (cold) in cool temperatures. It was the going back and forth from inside, where it was warm, to outside, where it was cold, that created an issue. After a couple of trips back and forth, my camera seemed to fog up, and the photographs were reflected that problem.

 

In the past, I learned how to work with going from the air conditioned ship to the warm, and humid outdoors. I just have not figured out how to go back and forth from the warmth of the indoors, to the cold of the outside. From what I am reading here, I think it is bringing the camera indoors that creates the problem. Thank you for all of the great suggestions.

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Thanks so much for the information provided. I will definitely use some of these suggestions.

 

The issue I had last year, was from going back and forth from inside (warm) to outside (cold) in cool temperatures. It was the going back and forth from inside, where it was warm, to outside, where it was cold, that created an issue. After a couple of trips back and forth, my camera seemed to fog up, and the photographs were reflected that problem.

 

In the past, I learned how to work with going from the air conditioned ship to the warm, and humid outdoors. I just have not figured out how to go back and forth from the warmth of the indoors, to the cold of the outside. From what I am reading here, I think it is bringing the camera indoors that creates the problem. Thank you for all of the great suggestions.

 

I do a lot of outside photography in very cold weather. It is easy to handle that problem. You just bring a large ziplock bag and but the camera inside of the bag while it is still outside. Then when it warms up, you take the camera out of the bag. Now if I could just figure out an easy way to keep my hands warm when I have to change batteries in the cold.

 

DON

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  • 4 weeks later...

Works every time:

 

take the towel from the Bathroom. And lay it down, overlap the cameras in there. I do this every time I head to bed when I grab my camera's they are ready for any shot, no fogging at all. No need for a heater, no need for special bags, I would never run a Hair dryer anywhere near a glass lens.

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...I would never run a Hair dryer anywhere near a glass lens.

 

That's why you hold it in your hand while warming it...glass is much more resilient than skin (or hair covered with volatile lacquer for that matter). ;)

 

Dave

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Has anyone tried putting silica gel in the camera bag to keep the moisture down? Does that work?

 

It works for storage and is a good idea if you live in a humid part of the country. The fogging when you exit a cool cabin into the steaming hell that we all tend to cruise in comes from the atmospheric moisture condensing on the cool surfaces of your camera. It's the temperature of your camera that is the culprit, so if you warm it to close to the outside temp before exiting, condensation won't occur.

 

Dave

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I do a lot of outside photography in very cold weather. It is easy to handle that problem. You just bring a large ziplock bag and but the camera inside of the bag while it is still outside. Then when it warms up, you take the camera out of the bag. Now if I could just figure out an easy way to keep my hands warm when I have to change batteries in the cold.

 

DON

 

Yes; what Don said usually works.

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