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  #1  
Old April 8th, 2011, 03:46 PM
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buffcurmudgeon buffcurmudgeon is offline
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Default Viking Mekong Review

This is an unvarnished subjective review of my recent Viking river cruise on the Mekong on the RV Tonle. Viking is the most recent of a number of tour companies that contract the Pandaw river boats for their vacation packages. We had taken Viking cruises in China and Russia and enjoyed them very much, so we had no qualms about booking this one. We had to work with the Viking travel agent (TA) for several days before we finally obtained a sailing date that fit our schedule, although we put ourselves on a waiting list for several others. At this point communications with our TA ceased, as he no longer returned my phone calls or answered my emails. Other TA’s could not, or would not give me any information about the wait lists, so I finally gave up and resigned myself to the March 19 sailing. The Generations visa service was expensive but efficient and I had no complaints. The air booking person was very helpful and made some modifications for me so I could leave Hanoi a day earlier due to a commitment here at home. I was also able to use some frequent flyer miles to upgrade to business class on the trans-pacific flight to and from Tokyo. By the time we landed in Saigon, it was 1030 PM and we were escorted to the hotel by our Viking representative and checked in by midnight. Thus, the first day of the tour was already over. The good news was that the Sofitel Saigon Plaza hotel in Saigon was wonderful, as were all the hotels on this vacation. Viking always does a great job in picking top-notch lodgings. We were escorted to the hotel by one of our two guides (Tom and Kong). Our guides were superb, spoke excellent English and did a good job in looking after our every need. There were 62 of us on the cruise. I would guess that the average age was about 70. Most were well-heeled, well- traveled, and well- educated. There were a few that should not have been on the trip due to mobility issues. Many of the tours require physical dexterity and good balance. The American Disabilities Act standards do not apply in Vietnam and Cambodia. I assume that they either did not read the caveats in the brochures or chose to ignore them. They ended up being a burden for our guides. Potential customers should use some common sense before booking a cruise such as this. My recommendations are as follows:
If you use a cane to walk- Don’t go.
If you can’t go at least 2 ½ hours without going to the toilet-Don’t go.
If you have balance problems or vertigo-Don’t go
The Saigon tours were interesting, and included the Reunification Palace, Chinatown, a lacquer factory, Notre Dame Cathedral, and the central market. As expected, there was some force feeding of Communist propaganda during the excursions. The war museum was completely one-sided, as expected and featured some former South Vietnamese Air Force aircraft that had been repainted with USAF insignia. I failed to mention that I was the only Vietnam War combat veteran on the trip, having flown as a navigator in AC-130 Gunships, primarily in Cambodia. Since I had been based in Thailand, I had only seen Cambodia from the air. When we ceased operations in August 1973, we knew it was only a matter if time until the Khmer Rouge took over the country, but we never foresaw the genocide that was to come under Pol Pot. At that time no one even knew about Pol Pot. Our guides tried to tip-toe around the politics, but had to toe the party line, at least in Vietnam. That evening, we were transported to the Rex Hotel for a nice fixed menu dinner and cultural dance presentation.
After a sumptuous breakfast, we were transported to the ship via bus and greeted by the friendly crew of the RV Tonle. The accommodations were comfortable, but not luxurious. Bottled water was freely dispensed for drinking and tooth brushing. The dinner and lunch menus varied between quite good to acceptable. The French influence was quite evident in the baguettes and other breads. The most memorable dinners included lamb, salmon and fried chicken. The breakfast buffet was wonderful, with many options. I think they did the best they could with the products that they could obtain. Local beer and well drinks were always free and complimentary South African wine was liberally dispensed at dinner. The Vietnamese and Cambodian beers were quite good, as was the white wine. I thought the red wine was dreadful, but my fellow passengers seemed to like it very much. The house liquors were mainly Philippine products. I only tried the house Vodka once and felt that it would have been more appropriate as a paint thinner. There were also reasonably priced premium beer, wine and liquor options. In the evening, there were history lectures and classic movies that were related to some of the sites we visited. Complimentary Wi-Fi was available once we crossed into Cambodia, but you had to be in the library lounge to connect. I just used my I-pod to get my web mail, rather than bringing a laptop.
Regarding tipping, the guides suggested that we pay $100 per couple up front for all the tips for the local guides, bus drivers, small boat operators, etc. so we wouldn’t be nickeled and dimed throughout the cruise. Most thought this was a good idea and went along with it. I also gave extra tips to the Cambodian and Vietnamese local guides who were very good. The ship tips come to around $150-170 per couple for the cruise, which you can put on a Visa or Mastercard . AMEX is not accepted onboard. Also I tipped my tour guide (Kong) about $170 at the end of the tour. It’s also a good idea to bring 50-100 one dollar bills for souvenirs. High end shops and hotels take all credit cards. The dollar is the preferred currency in Cambodia and Vietnam, so there is no need to ever exchange dollars for local currencies. ATMs even dispense dollars in Cambodia. The bottom line is that you should bring about $500 cash with you. The ship and hotels all have room safes and crime seems to be almost non-existent.
The tours along the Mekong were pretty much as advertised in the brochure. We were able to see and appreciate the daily lives of Vietnamese and Cambodian farmers, brick makers and fishermen. These people work very long hours for almost nothing, live in squalor, yet seem to be as happy and dignified as any millionaire on the boat. Smiling, friendly children abound everywhere. Some are looking for a hand-out, some are selling stuff, and some are just curious. Along the way, we were able to experience a variety of transportation methods, including Rickshaws and Tuk-Tuks . Many of the tours required tricky transfers onto small skiffs. During the seven days on the ship, we saw a lot of villages, Wats, orphanages, and markets. Our tour guide had worked at the notorious S-21 torture center in Phnom Penh as a small child after his parents were executed by Pol Pot. Over 2 million Cambodians were killed in the genocide. The visit to the killing fields was powerful and emotional. The bones of victims continue to surface all around the area. We could see them everywhere. I now have no regrets about my role in fighting the Khmer Rouge in 1973, other than the fact that we didn’t finish the job. Perhaps, the most poignant moment for me was at Wat Hanchey in Cambodia where I saw a Buddhist monk ring a gong that was made out of the bomb casing of an unexploded US Mark 82, 750 lb bomb. Now I knew the war was really over.
After disembarking, we took a five hour bus ride to Siem Reap with only one “happy house” rest stop. Fortunately, we were warned by the guides, so I was able load up on enough Immodium and lomotil to keep my “Ho Chi Minh’s revenge” under control for the journey. Quite a few of the passengers had some intestinal distress that seemed to be exacerbated by the anti-malarial medication, which I stopped taking after a few days. Mosquitoes were few and far between and I think that frequent applications of DEET 30 lotion is enough protection against Malaria and Dengue fever for this tour.
At Siem Reap, we checked into the stunning Sofitel Phokeetra Royal Angora Golf and Spa resort. This is one of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels I have ever seen. The rooms, service and food were outstanding. Tours of various temples including the famous Angkor Wat were amazing but the tours required quite a bit of agility to complete. Safety is not a high priority here, although the guides did their best to make sure we didn’t get hurt. We also saw the mysterious Taprohm Temple which was featured in the Tomb Raider movie.
Reluctantly, we finally checked out of the hotel to fly to Hanoi. Unfortunately, the flight didn’t arrive in Hanoi until about 1100 PM so we didn’t get to the hotel until after midnight. Once again, poor scheduling meant that we only had a few hours of sleep in the Sofitel Metropole hotel before resuming the tours. The Hotel was wonderful and the tours were good, except for the Hanoi Hilton, which was just a propaganda event. We also went to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, but I was the only passenger to decline viewing the long deceased and stuffed dictator. We had a nice farewell dinner the last night, bid adieu to our new group of friends, jumped into a cab the guide procured for us, and headed to the Hanoi airport.
This was the trip of a lifetime and we are still trying to process everything that happened. I know that I glossed over a lot of details about the food and tours, and I think I really shortchanged the hardworking crew of the RV Tonle. The only English word they didn’t seem to know was “no”. I highly recommend this to those who prize adventure over luxury. Despite the minor problems encountered, we remain loyal Viking customers. I’m just getting a different travel agent next time.
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  #2  
Old April 8th, 2011, 09:26 PM
sdianem sdianem is offline
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Default Thanks for review

Thanks for the review - very appreciated. We are going on AMA next December. We also are loyal Viking customers having gone on 4 of theirs but AMA does a great job too. Appreciated your comments on the money situation especially that the preference is for US dollars.
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  #3  
Old April 8th, 2011, 10:59 PM
shoshona2 shoshona2 is offline
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Smile Great review

I enjoyed reading your great review -- especially since you are a Vietnam combat veteran. We were in South Vietnam when the Americans first started visiting there many years ago and heard from our driver how awful North Vietnam treated them after the Americans left. They were starving. We even got to see the American Embassy still standing after the last helicopter left. It was later torn down. The Saigon we saw then was different with the only hotel being the Rex. When we returned about 8 years ago, we stayed at the 22 story Sheraton and couldn't believe the changes. Now, I hear there are hotels even taller. On our first trip, we saw American tanks and other war salvage in the fields. The people were so warm and welcoming. We went back 8 years ago so we could see North Vietnam and Cambodia. Thanks for your review. I'm sure it will inspire people to go and see this fascinating area.

Sheila
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  #4  
Old April 9th, 2011, 02:48 PM
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Thanks for a great review as this is a trip we want to take with Viking in the future. Was there any discussion while on the trip about what times of year one might want to avoid? Sounds like March is a good time.
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Old April 9th, 2011, 03:09 PM
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I think that Jan, Feb or March would be good, although Hanoi is chilly in Jan or Feb. The rainy season starts around the beginning of April, so the Mosquito issue may become more of a factor.
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Old April 9th, 2011, 06:11 PM
CincyAL CincyAL is offline
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Default Excellent review

Thanks for the insights & advice. Well Done!
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Old April 10th, 2011, 01:10 AM
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Thank you for the review. We were on AMA in February & the RV Tonle was docked next to us in Phnom Penh. I posted my review on member reviews if you are interested in reading about the similarities and differences between both trips. I agree with your comments on the mobility issues involved in this trip. Luckily, there wasn't anyone on our trip that had too much difficulty. You're candid discussion of your experiences as a Vietnam Vet and your perspective about Cambodia now are very interesting and much appreciated. We both agree that this is a true adventure. I highly recommend it as well.
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  #8  
Old April 10th, 2011, 07:29 AM
EJRIVER EJRIVER is offline
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Thanks for the great review. We are going with Viking in September 2011. We have been reading the AMA thread and just waiting for someone to report on their Viking experiences. We are also going on the extension trip to HaLongBay for a couple of days. We have been on the Grand European and China Cultural Delights with Viking in the past few years. Looking forward to the adventure!
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Old April 10th, 2011, 07:38 AM
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Thanks for the review.

Kirk
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Old April 10th, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Default Thanks

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback. I'm going to look at AMA more closely for my next River cruise. I think I'm going to stick to luxury or semi-luxury ocean cruises for awhile. My wife took a lot of notes, so if anyone has any specific questions, we will be happy to try and answer them.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 12:31 PM
shoshona2 shoshona2 is offline
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Smile Ama

We've been hearing good reports on AMA and will be on their new AMA Katarina river boat doing St. Petersburg to Moscow in September.

Sheila
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Old April 10th, 2011, 06:28 PM
alidor alidor is offline
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I would be leary of the weather in September in Vietnam. I haven't looked at the prices but I would guess they would be low at that time of year - it is a very stormy season in South Vietnam but I don't know how North Vietnam is affected.

There are often reports of very heavy flooding and tornados in Vietnam in September.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 07:50 PM
shoshona2 shoshona2 is offline
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Smile Vietnam and Cambodia Travel

To alidor,

You are absolutely correct -- Monsoon weather starts in August in Asia and September would not be a good time to go to Vietnam and Cambodia. We went the end of October and didn't have any mosquito problems.

Sheila
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Old April 20th, 2011, 12:28 PM
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In the interest of technical accuracy, the Mark 82 is a 500 lb. bomb, not 750. Thanks to one of my friends for pointing out the error.
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  #15  
Old April 20th, 2011, 12:46 PM
Riverroad Riverroad is offline
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I would not recommend taking this trip in March. We went in March last year and it was unbelievably hot and humid everywhere, especially in Siem Reap. Touring the temples was extremely uncomfortable and there is no shade anywhere. April is supposed to be the hottest month in Cambodia. Plus, if you go during the dry season (Jan.-April) you will have the five-hour bus trip from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap instead of being able to cruise all the way there. You'll be happy to be in the air-conditioned bus but it's a pretty boring trip. We were told by our guides that November was the best time to make this trip.

Don't worry about being cold in Hanoi. In March, a light fleece jacket was all we needed and then it suddenly turned hot the day we left.
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Old April 20th, 2011, 01:50 PM
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Thanks for posting your review, and to everyone else for all the helpful info on timing. I am looking at AMA for this trip, but I truly had no idea at all as to what would be the best time of year, other than I knew middle of summer would be bad.
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Old April 20th, 2011, 11:07 PM
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We took the AMA trip in February and it was hot in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. I think that December or January would be cooler and also dry. Our tour manager said the worst months are April & May due to the heat and no rain. All that being said we live in Florida so we know how to deal with the heat and it really wasn't that bad. The temperature from November-March does not vary that much-it's the humidity that is the most oppressive. The key is sunscreen, light clothes, a hat and lots of water.
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  #18  
Old May 22nd, 2011, 09:58 AM
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Default Buffcurmudgeon..!

Thanks so much for your review! We are on the Viking Emerald - China - this year and I've had a wonderful TA with Viking. I'd be happy to pass his name along to you, but don't know if it's proper in this venue..? He has absolutely gone beyond the call of duty and answers my e-mails within hours.

The Mekong is on our agenda for November 2012 or 2013. Vietnam vet here - Navy just up IH35 from you!

Cheers!
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Old June 5th, 2011, 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the offer, fellow Texans but I am not planning any more river cruises for a couple of years. We are taking the Celebrity Eclipse transatlantic in October for a more relaxing adventure.
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Old July 17th, 2012, 10:41 PM
Cruisin'WithMom Cruisin'WithMom is offline
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Default Thank You!

Thank you so much for this great review. My mom and I are booked on this and are so excited. Yours is one of the only detailed reviews I've found online.
Happy Travels!
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