First cruise to Antarctica

Hi,

We are planning our first trip to Antarctica late this year & would appreciate some feedback on peoples' experiences to narrow things down for us:

1) Which month is best? Late December would probably be best for us, but is Jan or Feb, etc better?

2) Our first step is to narrow down which cruiseline to use. When searching for possible cruise options it is quite hard to see which ones actually do landings. It appears our choices are Quark, Lindblad, Fram, Silversea & Seabourn. What are the pros & cons of each of these? (Eg number of landings). Are there any other cruiselines worth considering?

We currently like the idea of Seabourn (possibly the Dec 20th cruise) & they stop at some interesting places down the coast of South America & finish in Buenos Aires to allow some post-cruise sight-seeing. Of course we understand they are new to the area and it's possible to visit these other places separately anyway.

We really appreciate any thoughts & suggestions on everyone's experiences.

Cheers,

Gary & Mo

Perth, Australia.

I like that you are planning your "first" trip, meaning you think that maybe it's not going to be the only one! ;) Good for you!

As for the "best" month, it's difficult to say. Best for what? At the beginning of the season (Late november/December) you will have more ice (sometimes too much, but more dramatic landscape) and penguins eggs will be still incubating. At the end of the season (February), less ice which will allow to go further south, and grown-up penguins chicks. It also depends on whether you want to include South Georgia in your journey or not (I'd say go for it, it is a pretty special place). The weather is too impredictable to use general weather predictions as a factor in choice.

Companies that advertise "expedition-style" cruise will do landings. It should be clearly stated in the cruise description (and the price will give you a hint as well). Cruise ships with more than 200/250 passengers will probably not do landings. I think the number of landings depends more on the ice/weather conditions than on the ship. A ship with less than 100 passengers will give you more time ashore, since only 100 people are allowed to land together, so ships with more than 100 passengers will do rotations.

Given the reviews and discussions on this board, I believe there is no bad choices when it comes to expedition cruises in Antarctica. All companies are professional and reliable. Since a majority of people only do one trip, and come back happy because Antarctica is magic, they will recommend their company, but I don't think I read someone that was disappointed with their Antarctica trip.

I'm not helping you much here. The bottom line I guess is : pick a period that suits you, look at your budget, figure out roughly where you want to go (Antartic peninsula only? South Georgia? Or maybe a trip leaving from your side of the world? - although not maybe for your first trip, maybe for the second one? ;) ), if you want a ship with less than 100 passengers or not, and then go for the company that will offer you the longer trip for your money.

I have been in Antarctica with Hurtigruten's Fram in Feb2009, and then, although at the time I didn't think it would be a "first" trip, I went back this past December, with MS Fram again. First trip was an expedition to the Antartic Circle (which we were lucky to cross, but we chose this trip mainly because it was longer), second trip was Falklands/South Georgia/Peninsula. Both trips were completely different but equally astonishing (and I'm still very happy with Hurtigruten).

I'm going to pretty much echo what SarniaLo has said.

Our first trip was Hurtigruten's Fram's last Antarctic trip of the season in February 2012 which meant that we sailed from Ushuaia to Antarctica and then returned to Buenos Aires via South Georgia (you must go if you can!) and the Falklands (also a 'must if you can'). We preferred to go at that time of year as we would see chicks rather than eggs and we were more certain (though absolutely nothing is certain in Antarctica) that there would be fewer problems with ice than at the start of the season.

As for Seabourn's itinerary, I would put my time and money into Antarctica , South Georgia and the Falklands, and leave the coast of Chile for another time. Having done the Chilean coast and the Horn several years before Antarctica, I would find the coast something of a disappointment if I had done the trips the other way round.

Fram operates a couple of landings a day (sometimes three) and, as there are around 190 passengers the boat groups are rotated. This caused us absolutely no problems at all as there's always plenty to see from the ship and we never felt rushed or short changed when ashore. It also meant we could have a slightly more leisurely start to some days when our boat group was one of the last in the rotation!

We, like SarniaLo, are more than happy with Fram and are going back to Antarctica with her in two weeks time: this time, hopefully, to beyond the Antarctic Circle. This should complete quite a 'cold climes' 12 months for us with earlier trips to Iceland, Svalbard (on Fram) and the Norwegian coast as far as Kirkenes!

Finally, be prepared to want to go back... it really is a very special place!

I like that you are planning your "first" trip, meaning you think that maybe it's not going to be the only one! ;) Good for you!

 

As for the "best" month, it's difficult to say. Best for what? At the beginning of the season (Late november/December) you will have more ice (sometimes too much, but more dramatic landscape) and penguins eggs will be still incubating. At the end of the season (February), less ice which will allow to go further south, and grown-up penguins chicks. It also depends on whether you want to include South Georgia in your journey or not (I'd say go for it, it is a pretty special place). The weather is too impredictable to use general weather predictions as a factor in choice.

 

Companies that advertise "expedition-style" cruise will do landings. It should be clearly stated in the cruise description (and the price will give you a hint as well). Cruise ships with more than 200/250 passengers will probably not do landings. I think the number of landings depends more on the ice/weather conditions than on the ship. A ship with less than 100 passengers will give you more time ashore, since only 100 people are allowed to land together, so ships with more than 100 passengers will do rotations.

 

Given the reviews and discussions on this board, I believe there is no bad choices when it comes to expedition cruises in Antarctica. All companies are professional and reliable. Since a majority of people only do one trip, and come back happy because Antarctica is magic, they will recommend their company, but I don't think I read someone that was disappointed with their Antarctica trip.

 

I'm not helping you much here. The bottom line I guess is : pick a period that suits you, look at your budget, figure out roughly where you want to go (Antartic peninsula only? South Georgia? Or maybe a trip leaving from your side of the world? - although not maybe for your first trip, maybe for the second one? ;) ), if you want a ship with less than 100 passengers or not, and then go for the company that will offer you the longer trip for your money.

 

I have been in Antarctica with Hurtigruten's Fram in Feb2009, and then, although at the time I didn't think it would be a "first" trip, I went back this past December, with MS Fram again. First trip was an expedition to the Antartic Circle (which we were lucky to cross, but we chose this trip mainly because it was longer), second trip was Falklands/South Georgia/Peninsula. Both trips were completely different but equally astonishing (and I'm still very happy with Hurtigruten).

I'm also planning my first cruise to Antarctica (finally). I am keen on MS Fram, because I like and trust Hurtigruten.

I will be cruising with my elder daughter who has cruised the longer voyage on a small ship, so she obviously loved that experience.

Because of her work close down period, we're looking at Dec.

As there is a 30 year age difference, I'd appreciate your opinion on whether MS Fram would meet her more adventurous wants, such as kayaking. (She loved Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage also.)

I'm also planning my first cruise to Antarctica (finally). I am keen on MS Fram, because I like and trust Hurtigruten.

 

I will be cruising with my elder daughter who has cruised the longer voyage on a small ship, so she obviously loved that experience.

 

Because of her work close down period, we're looking at Dec.

 

As there is a 30 year age difference, I'd appreciate your opinion on whether MS Fram would meet her more adventurous wants, such as kayaking. (She loved Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage also.)

We were not offered kayaking on our previous Antarctic trip on Fram, though it was available on our Svalbard trip. Without wanting to be a killjoy, you (she) should bear in mind that a 'misadventure' may well mean an early return home for you, and missed landings for the rest of the passengers.

You are aware, I hope, that your daughter's previous trip with Hurtigruten qualifies her (and you!) to a useful 5% discount on future trips like your proposed Antarctic trip...

We were not offered kayaking on our previous Antarctic trip on Fram, though it was available on our Svalbard trip. Without wanting to be a killjoy, you (she) should bear in mind that a 'misadventure' may well mean an early return home for you, and missed landings for the rest of the passengers.

 

You are aware, I hope, that your daughter's previous trip with Hurtigruten qualifies her (and you!) to a useful 5% discount on future trips like your proposed Antarctic trip...

Oh, I wouldn't go kayaking, if available, just my daughter. She is aware that everything depends on the weather conditions, at the time.

Thanks for that information. I had just sent off an email to Hurtigruten asking them whether we got a discount, being past cruisers.

Oh, I wouldn't go kayaking, if available, just my daughter. She is aware that everything depends on the weather conditions, at the time.

 

Just fyi, kayaking is a regular offering (at no additional charge) on Nat Geo/Lindblad Antarctica trips (weather permitting of course). My account of my humorous kayaking adventure in Antarctica is in this post on my journal of our expedition (the main link to the journal is in my signature below):

http://antarcticjourney.wordpress.com/2013/08/17/day-six-part-two-penguins-a-paddle-and-a-plunge/

(photo by turtles06)

Gary and Mo: you've already gotten excellent advice above, so I won't repeat what's been said. I just wanted to underscore that there's no "best" time to visit Antarctica, as everything is extraordinary. Depending on when you visit, penguins will be in different stages of their life cycle. Whales and seals may be more numerous in late January and into February. You'll likely have more ice in December, etc.

If you actually have flexibility in your schedule, you might consider whether there are things that you would like to try to see (chicks running around the rookeries, for example), but with the caveat that every season is different and things don't happen on schedule in Antarctica. :)

In my signature below there's a link to my detailed account (with photos) of our expedition a year ago to Antarctica aboard the National Geographic Explorer, in case this is of any help to you in planning what will be the trip of a lifetime.

Enjoy whatever you do!

Just fyi, kayaking is a regular offering (at no additional charge) on Nat Geo/Lindblad Antarctica trips (weather permitting of course). My account of my humorous kayaking adventure in Antarctica is in this post on my journal of our expedition (the main link to the journal is in my signature below):

 

http://antarcticjourney.wordpress.com/2013/08/17/day-six-part-two-penguins-a-paddle-and-a-plunge/

 

 

 

(photo by turtles06)

Beautiful photo.

Thanks. I had already read your enjoyable journal, which is probably how I knew kayaking in Antarctica was available. Otherwise, I would have thought "Kayaking where?".

Gary and Mo, If you read past threads, which are a priceless source of valuable information, you will get a good idea of which type of cruise appeals to you most. I have been reading them forever!

As there is a 30 year age difference, I'd appreciate your opinion on whether MS Fram would meet her more adventurous wants, such as kayaking. (She loved Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage also.)

I went kayaking in Antarctica! ;) Contrary to Turtle06's account for Nat Geo, it is unfortunately not free of charge (950 NOK if I remember correctly, for 1.5-2h tours). I don't think there is any risks involved as the kayaking occurs only in very good weather conditions, and Hurtigruten provides all the necessary gear (warm and waterproof) and security is very well handled. It was an absolutely amazing experience.

On some landings there were also some hikes offered (also ice and weather depending).

I actually think of an trip to Antarctica as an aventure in itself, so not sure I can answer adequately to your daughter's concern, but there were many young (30-40 yo) passengers in my trip and they didn't seem to be bored. But I don't think this is specific to Fram actually (although if your daughter is very active and needs to spend some energy, there is a nice fitness room onboard Fram with all the necessary gear, with wonderful views to the outside ;)).

To add a bit on the subject "it's very difficult to plan ahead the things you will see", Turtle06 mentions "Whales and seals may be more numerous in late January and into February." While this it true in theory, I saw I think 2 whales (far in the distance) during my first trip in February 2009, and dozens of them, including many humpback whales right under the bow of the ship, this past December. You never really know.

I went kayaking in Antarctica! ;) Contrary to Turtle06's account for Nat Geo, it is unfortunately not free of charge (950 NOK if I remember correctly, for 1.5-2h tours). I don't think there is any risks involved as the kayaking occurs only in very good weather conditions, and Hurtigruten provides all the necessary gear (warm and waterproof) and security is very well handled. It was an absolutely amazing experience.

On some landings there were also some hikes offered (also ice and weather depending).

I actually think of an trip to Antarctica as an aventure in itself, so not sure I can answer adequately to your daughter's concern, but there were many young (30-40 yo) passengers in my trip and they didn't seem to be bored. But I don't think this is specific to Fram actually (although if your daughter is very active and needs to spend some energy, there is a nice fitness room onboard Fram with all the necessary gear, with wonderful views to the outside ;)).

 

To add a bit on the subject "it's very difficult to plan ahead the things you will see", Turtle06 mentions "Whales and seals may be more numerous in late January and into February." While this it true in theory, I saw I think 2 whales (far in the distance) during my first trip in February 2009, and dozens of them, including many humpback whales right under the bow of the ship, this past December. You never really know.

Thanks for your comments. Nice to know that kayaking is an optional extra.

My daughter wouldn't get bored, as she loved following all the activity on and off the ship. Her concerns are twofold. One, that a ship, bigger than the one she cruised on, wouldn't be able to go to as many places as the smaller ship. Two, that she wouldn't be able to go on all the landings each time, because only 100 passengers can land at one time.

My daughter wouldn't get bored, as she loved following all the activity on and off the ship. Her concerns are twofold. One, that a ship, bigger than the one she cruised on, wouldn't be able to go to as many places as the smaller ship. Two, that she wouldn't be able to go on all the landings each time, because only 100 passengers can land at one time.

Fram isn't particularly big, and I'm sure she is able to get into the same places as the 'small' ships. A little 'size' can help if you, for example, experience Drake Shake as opposed to the Drake Lake we were happy to be presented with last time!

As for landings, all groups go on all landings unless the weather or something unexpected gets in the way, or if there's an alternative activity. Like kayaking!

My earlier caution, by the way, wasn't aimed at kayaking in particular. On Cuverville Island I climbed up a short rise to get some better pictures. It was only on the way down that I realised just how slippery and treacherous the route was and how easily I could have slipped, broken a leg and brought my trip to an early end with a trip to the nearest airstrip for evacuation to Chile: a trip which we did actually make when a passenger fell ill and needed hospitalisation in Chile. We sailed overnight and all morning to Frei base from where the passenger was flown out. She missed most of her trip, everyone else missed a number of planned landings.

I won't be climbing on our coming trip: less than two weeks until we leave!

On a ship the size of the Fram, everybody gets to go ashore at every spot, its just that they have to do it in groups and so at some (but not all, such as Port Lockroy) places they will have less time ashore (but also, not necessarily only half as much time ... it could be 2/3 because there is usually not a big rush. More important is the exact ice class in determining getting places.

Now for ships much bigger than Fram (i.e. over 199 passengers) then things get worse rapidly. I was on a 134 passenger boat and we had zero problems.

I had just sent off an email to Hurtigruten asking them whether we got a discount, being past cruisers.

You (your daughter) needs to register for Hurtigruten's '1893 Ambassador' scheme.

Fram isn't particularly big, and I'm sure she is able to get into the same places as the 'small' ships. A little 'size' can help if you, for example, experience Drake Shake as opposed to the Drake Lake we were happy to be presented with last time!

 

As for landings, all groups go on all landings unless the weather or something unexpected gets in the way, or if there's an alternative activity. Like kayaking!

 

My earlier caution, by the way, wasn't aimed at kayaking in particular. On Cuverville Island I climbed up a short rise to get some better pictures. It was only on the way down that I realised just how slippery and treacherous the route was and how easily I could have slipped, broken a leg and brought my trip to an early end with a trip to the nearest airstrip for evacuation to Chile: a trip which we did actually make when a passenger fell ill and needed hospitalisation in Chile. We sailed overnight and all morning to Frei base from where the passenger was flown out. She missed most of her trip, everyone else missed a number of planned landings.

 

I won't be climbing on our coming trip: less than two weeks until we leave!

That is a big attraction for me, also the panoramic lounge for viewing from inside.

Thanks for your advice re being careful climbing, under slippery conditions.

I have now registered with Hurtigruten - thanks.

Bon Voyage for your next cruise. You must be excited!

On a ship the size of the Fram, everybody gets to go ashore at every spot, its just that they have to do it in groups and so at some (but not all, such as Port Lockroy) places they will have less time ashore (but also, not necessarily only half as much time ... it could be 2/3 because there is usually not a big rush. More important is the exact ice class in determining getting places.

Now for ships much bigger than Fram (i.e. over 199 passengers) then things get worse rapidly. I was on a 134 passenger boat and we had zero problems.

Thanks. Good to hear you had zero problems on a 134 passenger ship.

I agree the ice class is the most important feature for venturing further afield.

I have now registered with Hurtigruten - thanks.

5% off Antarctic prices will certainly be useful!

To get the very best value make sure you book as soon as the brochure is released. The same day, if possible! Hurtigruten have adopted 'fluid pricing' which means that the first cabin is available at the very lowest advertised price and then the price climbs as availability reduces.

Bon Voyage for your next cruise. You must be excited!

Thanks: we are, though I've just spent several hours double checking itineraries and bookings as we are doing Antarctica, Quito, Galapagos Islands and Rio all in a 34 day trip!

5% off Antarctic prices will certainly be useful!

 

To get the very best value make sure you book as soon as the brochure is released. The same day, if possible! Hurtigruten have adopted 'fluid pricing' which means that the first cabin is available at the very lowest advertised price and then the price climbs as availability reduces.

 

 

Thanks: we are, though I've just spent several hours double checking itineraries and bookings as we are doing Antarctica, Quito, Galapagos Islands and Rio all in a 34 day trip!

Thanks for explaining the fluid pricing policy.

Wow - that is some itinerary. Which line and which ship?

Fram isn't particularly big, and I'm sure she is able to get into the same places as the 'small' ships. A little 'size' can help if you, for example, experience Drake Shake as opposed to the Drake Lake we were happy to be presented with last time!

 

As for landings, all groups go on all landings unless the weather or something unexpected gets in the way, or if there's an alternative activity. Like kayaking!

 

My earlier caution, by the way, wasn't aimed at kayaking in particular. On Cuverville Island I climbed up a short rise to get some better pictures. It was only on the way down that I realised just how slippery and treacherous the route was and how easily I could have slipped, broken a leg and brought my trip to an early end with a trip to the nearest airstrip for evacuation to Chile

I agree with everything you say, actually. I would pay at least as much attention to the ice-rating of the ship than to its size (among the expedition ships, I mean), and to its "sea-worthiness" (if there is such a word?).

One of the big plus of Fram for me also is the "zodiac" they use for landings, which are not Zodiac per se but "Polarcirkel boats" which are real boats made of solid plastic (not inflatable rubber) and I think they are able to do landings and cruisings in "rougher" ice conditions than other zodiacs. For instance, to land at the Vernadsky station (south of Lemaire Channel) the Polarcirkel boats actually had to break through sea ice (recent one, so not very high - 50cm -, but still) and I don't know if any kind of zodiac can do that. (In the picture they are mainly pushing the ice floes, but earlier in the day they had to physically break the ice).

And yes, everybody goes to every landing (weather permitting), it's just that when there are more than 100 passengers there will be group rotations and as a consequence you spend less time ashore.

As for your concern for safety, I fully agree, I think it was one of your earlier message on that subject that got me thinking about some activities, particularly hiking, because I'm not an experienced hiker and although I think I could have handled a hike in Antarctica (and would have enjoyed it), I was concerned that I could actually hurt myself because the conditions are not always easy. But I just wanted to point out that I don't think there is any risk involved with kayaking in those conditions (they require that you know how to swim).

Thanks for explaining the fluid pricing policy.

For our upcoming Antarctic trip I received a standard advertising email from Hurtigruten to announce the new brochure. It had been sent at around 06:00 that morning. I waited for my (excellent) travel agent to open at 09:00 and, by that time, the lowest priced cabin had gone!

I forgot to say previously that the fluid pricing policy means that any fare quoted is only good for that phone call. Put the phone down and call back and it's a new, possibly higher, quote.

Wow - that is some itinerary. Which line and which ship?

Hurtigruten's Fram to Antarctica, Celebrity's Xpedition in the Galapagos.

As so often happens after we have been travelling, we'll probably feel that we need a holiday afterwards! But it will be worth it.

One of the big plus of Fram for me also is the "zodiac" they use for landings, which are not Zodiac per se but "Polarcirkel boats" which are real boats made of solid plastic (not inflatable rubber) and I think they are able to do landings and cruisings in "rougher" ice conditions than other zodiacs. For instance, to land at the Vernadsky station (south of Lemaire Channel) the Polarcirkel boats actually had to break through sea ice (recent one, so not very high - 50cm -, but still) and I don't know if any kind of zodiac can do that.

We had an amazing ride in a Polarcirkle in front of Monacobreen on our Svalbard trip. The boat just crunched its way through the broken ice in front of the glacier at a more than sedate pace. Something a soft-hulled 'zodiac' would be unlikely to attempt. Wonderful!

For those who might be less agile, a further plus is the ease of getting in and out of the Polarcirkle: it's about as easy as it could be.

As for your concern for safety, I fully agree, I think it was one of your earlier message on that subject that got me thinking about some activities, particularly hiking, because I'm not an experienced hiker and although I think I could have handled a hike in Antarctica (and would have enjoyed it), I was concerned that I could actually hurt myself because the conditions are not always easy.

Part of the South Georgia 'experience' is the option to recreate part of Shackleton's trek to safety which involves traversing some scree. Although the scree isn't difficult (the expedition leader wouldn't consider going anywhere near it if it was even slightly dangerous) a couple of the hikers did slip. Thankfully, they suffered no injuries but it does illustrate that some realistic thought on activities and abilities is required...

... My account of my humorous kayaking adventure in Antarctica is in this post on my journal of our expedition (the main link to the journal is in my signature below):

 

http://antarcticjourney.wordpress.com/2013/08/17/day-six-part-two-penguins-a-paddle-and-a-plunge/

 

 

(photo by turtles06)

Was the scopolamine patch useful/needed outside of Drake's Passage?

Thanks,

Bob

Was the scopolamine patch useful/needed outside of Drake's Passage?

Thanks,

Bob

Not Turtles06, but we had a couple of hours in Antarctic Sound where we felt the motion. Not outrageously bad, but enough to want to vacate the higher decks and move down to midships on deck 4 or our cabin on deck 3.

We also had some movement during dinner one evening that wasn't too pleasant. But we were in the dining room at the stern and so it was kicking up and down quite a lot as well as rolling a little. I found it quite 'interesting', especially when the propellers could be heard to race a little when they were lifted out of the water!

Now you've got me thinking about Drake Passage and which version, Shake or Lake, we'll get in two weeks time...

But it's all part of the experience and I wouldn't miss a minute of it.

Was the scopolamine patch useful/needed outside of Drake's Passage?

Thanks,

Bob

I don't get seasick and I wasn't using a patch, so I can only report on my spouse's experience. She does get seasick in rough seas, and so she had a patch on for our initial crossing of the Drake. She took it off as soon as we were out of the Drake, and did not miss it in Antarctica. She put another one on for the return trip through the Drake. The dry mouth caused by the patch was sufficiently annoying that she was happy not to have the patch on for most of the trip. (Dry mouth was a common complaint from the patch-wearers.) I think some folks had a patch on the entire time, but then again, you see people wearing a patch on big cruise ships for the entire cruise.

Of course, as is clear from digitl's comment above, everyone's experience with the seas will be different.

Was the scopolamine patch useful/needed outside of Drake's Passage?

Thanks,

Bob

We did the Drake one way, and used the patch then. We also used it on the way from Ushuaia to the Falklands as we encountered a storm. Aside from that, we had no need for the patch.