Review of Funchal cruise, Octo 2014

[Host Sharon]

As Funchal is not an option in the proper reviews site I will post this here in case it is of interest/use to readers. I should start by saying that the vessel was under charter to Cruise & Maritime for this and one other cruise so we had a mixture of Portuscale and CM crew on board.

Tuesday 21st October

 

 

On the night before our cruise we checked where Funchal was on Marine Traffic.com, as we always do out of interest. My friend suddenly noticed her destination was listed as Liverpool! Errr – what happened to Avonmouth?? Starting to panic now, I eventually phoned CMV to ask what was happening and was told we had to turn up at Avonmouth on the Tuesday as planned but that we would be taken by coach to Liverpool. The reason was that severe winds (tail end of Hurricane Gonzalo) was preventing the ship from reaching Bristol but she was listed to dock at Liverpool at 9pm that evening. We duly boarded our booked car to go to Bristol and were met by someone from CMV who asked us all to wait for a bit in the terminal café. At around noon we boarded our coach only to be given a letter to say we would be put up in a hotel that evening with dinner on CMV, and hopefully board Funchal the next day – Wednesday. The letter went on to say that the lost day would mean dropping La Coruna and Madeira from the cruise - two of the four ports total! At this news, many people got up and walked off the coach saying that if they weren’t going to Madeira they didn’t want to continue to travel. Those wishing to go home now could have a full refund but if we travelled to Liverpool before cancelling we would have to make our own way home. After some discussion we decided to carry on and have an adventure – little did we know then quite what an adventure it would be become! It was a three-hour journey to Liverpool with a short break at Sandbach services to buy a sandwich. The coach was comfortable and I had room to stretch my legs – my biggest fear of a long coach trip is squashed knees! Fortunately for us – although not for them - there was a couple on the coach who had travelled down from Liverpool the previous day and were able to direct the driver to the cruise berth as some roads had been closed due to the high winds causing damage to buildings. Once at the cruise terminal someone from CMV came on board and asked us all what kind of accommodation we required – twin, single etc. – before we were taken just across the road – the one that was closed! - to the Atlantic Tower Thistle Hotel and given our ninth-floor room. It was a nice twin room with a view of the Liver Building from our window. At least we thought it was a good view until we heard a sound like thunder and saw a panel ripped off the block behind us and literally fly across the road and land on a roof! This was a bit alarming!! Still we were in Liverpool – we later discovered many passengers had been put up for the night in Chester.

Dinner was obviously hastily prepared for the CMV influx – a choice of chicken, chicken or chicken, after which we retired to bed and hopefully good news in the morning.

 

Wednesday 22 Oct

We headed down for breakfast in the hotel and were relieved to spot Funchal in the distance heading for her berth! As the wind had dropped and rain ceased for the present, after breakfast we went for a walk along the waterfront of Liverpool - I had never been there before. We first went to see the ship and take a few photos of her. She did indeed look very small but has lovely lines – like a miniature QE2 in my mind. We then headed up towards the Museum of Liverpool, Beatles Experience and finally the Maritime Museum where we just had time for a quick look around before heading back to the hotel for a coffee and to find out what was happening. There was no news however regarding the promised revised itinerary until we were boarding the coaches to take us to the ship around midday. We had accepted the loss of two ports but had hoped for longer calls at Tenerife and Lanzarote as they were quite short – half a day in one case, and afternoon and evening in the other, and even possibly an extra new port nearer to the others. It was not to be however and when we got our letters the itinerary remained the same as we had been told in Bristol. This meant we faced four straight sea days down the Irish Sea and Bay of Biscay before arriving in Tenerife. The coaches dropped us off at the “terminal” where we quickly checked in and walked across the road, down a tatty covered walkway to a pontoon against which the ship was berthed; then up a rather rickety stepped gangway and onto the ship. Once inside a steward took both our cabin cases and led us up two flights of spiral stairs to Navigator Deck and our cabin 102. This was a six-level upgrade from our original booked cabin on the lowest Estoril Deck. Maybe not such a good idea I thought in view of the weather but on later seeing the stairs down to our original deck, I think I may have felt very claustrophobic down there. There were two single beds at right angles to each other (so my feet were in my friend's face!) and a third upper berth folded up against the wall. There was a separate fridge, dresser with four very small drawers, a small single wardrobe with interior drawer at the bottom and another double version of the same, with a safe in one side. That was all the storage there was. The, obviously refitted, bathroom had a wall-hung basin and toilet, both of which gave a little as you put any weight on them – rather alarming in the case of the loo!!! It was effectively a wet room with the shower in one corner with a slightly recessed floor level and a curtain. The biggest problem with the bathroom was the total lack of storage anywhere- not a shelf or cupboard to be found, meaning we had to live out of our spongebags the whole cruise. The other problem we discovered later was a shortage of grab-rails – just one small one in the shower, which meant a couple or more days when we dare not even risk showering in the rough seas. Back in the cabin. there was a small elongated porthole with one-way glass out onto the upper promenade deck, plenty of continental style sockets and excellent reading lights on flexible stalks. The position was great – straight out of our door and onto the upper prom deck and right next to the port bridge wing.

Our cases soon arrived and we unpacked and set off to explore the ship from top to bottom with our cameras as is our norm for a new vessel, until it was time for muster drill at 5pm. We had to wear our life jackets and sit through the usual routine and three different-sounding alarms, before being led out to our boat station and counted.

We were on table no 11 for 8, second sitting (8pm). It appeared we had to keep to our table for lunch as well as dinner. However due to the low number of passengers, this was soon changed to a single 7pm sitting. The problem was that for our new 7pm table allocation we had to queue to see the Maitre d’ and make our requests – this time we were allocated table no 28. A nice group of people but with whom we had nothing in common. When we mentioned this in passing to the Social Hostess, she found us a new table the following day – No.6. – but because we didn’t have a card for this table, we asked where it was at lunchtime but were directed to table 5! This caused the maitre d’ to nearly have a heart attack as we were messing up his detailed numbered table plans. Clearly this was an issue between CMV staff doing something without reference to the Portuscale crew. He was getting very cross indeed but as we tried to explain it wasn’t our fault he seemed to realise he may have gone a bit far and was effusively friendly from then on! It was all finally sorted and we stayed at table 6 for dinner (lunches became open seating|) with a couple from South Africa and a lady on her own from Bristol.

After dinner we went to the Welcome show – there was a very good team of dancers plus the three CMV entertainment officers and CD who sang as well.

 

Thursday 23rd October – Sunday 26th October

During the first four sea days, it was immediately apparent that MV Funchal rolled incessantly and severely, even when we reached Madeira and flat calm conditions. The only time we could relax was when she was tied up ashore. We soon found our way around although it was a bit confusing that we had to go down one flight of stairs from our cabin and then along and down again to the MDR. I loved the 1960s style that was evident around the ship - particularly in the chairs in the Gama Lounge and the tapestries in the Lisboa restaurant. I discovered these were original to the vessel, which was built in 1961.

 

The days passed with breakfast in the MDR – a buffet with separate areas for hot food, juice, breads, muffins and cereals, and fruit. There were quizzes in the morning followed by games such as beanbag bowls, bucketball and hoopla (called quoits). Outside was shuffleboard – played regardless of weather conditions! And later in the morning was a Wii game such as tennis or bowling. We always ate lunch in the MDR as well. The Lido Buffet wasn’t opened until around Day 3 or 4 as it was open on one side to the elements, although hot drinks were available there most of the day. There was a craft lecturer making Kusadama flower wreathes and cards and two lecturers – one on photography and one on footballers!! Sometimes there was a demonstration such as how to make cocktails. I managed to walk in on that one just as he was asking the question who sang the song The Rose (Bette Midler) and won the cocktail to drink! Afternoon was served in the Lisboa Restaurant with rolls, sandwiches and cakes. They also had scones and jam and a strange bowl of pink goo that may have been supposed to be strawberry cream? As we were eating early (for us) at 7pm, we usually did the 5.30pm quiz and then go and shower etc before a cocktail in the Porto Lounge. There was a very good pianist and singer Luisa Maio, who sang in the Portuguese Fado style. Then dinner and the show. The eastern European dance troupe was excellent and were often followed by a different show by the entertainment officers. There were two or three special themed dinners, including a wonderful Indonesian show with music one night, where the MDR was decorated with masks and musical instruments and Portuguese and Spanish themed dinners. One highlight was seeing a whale not too far from the ship.

On the evening of Saturday, when we back to the cabin to find our pillow chocolate, latest towel animal and the following day’s programme, we noticed it said that the ship's clocks were put back one hour the previous evening. That was the ONLY notification – no announcement, no card in cabin etc, and many people didn’t spot it in time so got up an hour early!

 

At dinner on Sunday evening 26th October, as we were still heading for Tenerife, we heard an announcement over the ship’s tannoy. It was not loud and it was a while before everyone noticed and went quiet. The gist of it was that due to Funchal experiencing strong currents there was no way we were going to make it to the Canaries and the decision had been made to turn 90 degrees and head for Madeira after all, followed by Portimao in Portugal on the 29th. Although we were pleased to be going to Madeira, Portimao was disappointing as we were there in August! This came as a complete surprise. A letter was waiting for us in our cabins that night with the re-revised itinerary and the offer of 40% refund on our cruise.

 

Monday 27th October

Land!!! I don’t think anyone was so glad to see the lights of Madeira as Funchal's passengers that morning. Sadly the highlight of going to Madeira for me was to have seen the brand new Regal Princess there on her maiden voyage, but now we were there on a different day that was not possible. I was up to watch us berth in Funchal. It was a stunning sunrise and I got some lovely photos of the reflections on the ship. There were no other ships in aside from a ferry which left as we arrived. After breakfast we waited for the free shuttle take us into the main street just back from the sea front. We then set off wandering, accompanied by a table mate as far as the information bureau. We looked in a few shops and I bought a pretty fish pendant before it was time for a drink and custard tart! After a rest we set off again, visiting the flower and fish markets and then walking along the waterfront to take photos of Funchal. She looked so tiny against the quayside against the “normal” cruise ships like Oriana. Walked out, we got the last but one shuttle back to Funchal in time for afternoon tea. We were of course on deck for sailaway and to watch stores being loaded using one of the two cranes on the foredeck. The stores were on pallets which were hooked to the crane with webbing straps and lowered onto the deck. As we sailed they were using the crane to lift the stores and lower then into a hold through hatches on the foredeck. We were very pleased to see stocks of Vinho Verde among them! After dinner we went to the show which tonight was Lawrence Robinson, a tenor. There was also a tropical deck party in the Lido but we were too tired to stay up for that.

 

Tuesday 28th October

Another day at sea in lovely calm waters – and still we rolled! Some of the highlights of this cruise were the unusual entertainments- a class of Portuguese folk dance for example or the waiters at dinner giving a concert of bamboo instruments, which we all later tried!

 

Wednesday 29th October

Woke up and pulled open the curtain to find we were nearly at Portimao - an hour early! After a few photos on deck and breakfast we waited for our excursion to Carvoeiro and Lagos. We had only been here a few weeks ago in August so were a bit disappointed to be here again so soon, hence the tour to see somewhere different and have more time in Lagos. We did spot that storks were now nesting on the tall red-brick chimneys that are dotted around the town - remnants of the sardine-canning industry!

We drove out into the countryside over the bridge to the pretty seaside town of Carvoeiro. We had just half an hour of free time to walk down the shell-scattered sands to the water, past a few fishing boats hauled up to the road. The high cliffs lining the bay were pock-marked with caves and were a beautiful golden colour with white houses lining the hilltop. After a walk around we drove to the stunning view point over the cliffs outside Lagos before driving into the town itself. Here I detached myself from the walking tour and explored alone a little, walking up the narrow pedestrianised streets lined with cafes etc. We had an hour here so I walked up as far as the big square with the old Slave Market and church before doubling back along a parallel street towards the market. Me being me, I popped into a jewellery shop, where the two assistants were both looking down behind the counter. Looking to see what they were talking to I found a tiny puppy. He was very nervous but eventually crept forward for a scratch. I think he was maybe a Great Dane - he had huge feet! Wandering back to the small square near where we had been dropped off, I found a delightful craft shop with beautiful carved stone birds on rocks - sadly too heavy to buy given our flight home! I then met up with Caryll again and we wandered over to the river frontage and sales stalls where I bought a couple of scarves for 3 Euros each. Then it was time to board the coach back to Portimao.

 

As we both wanted better shots of the ship and also the nesting storks, we both got off the coach and straight back onto the shuttle into Portimao. We still couldn't get good views though and after half an hour returned to the ship. We were on deck as it is always an interesting sailaway from Portimao, although unlike previous visits, the sun was setting when we left. Then it was time to change for our last dinner on board.

 

Thursday 30th October

After all the confusion and conflicting advice yesterday as to when or if to put out our luggage, we had packed and put it out at midnight last night. We woke up just as we were sailing up the Tagus River. I was soon out on deck to take photos of the Belem Castle and Monument of the Discoveries as this time it was from a very different angle being so comparatively low in the water. Caryll joined me and I spotted a ship following us in to Lisbon - Oriana! We waited to see where we were berthing - the terminal near to the bridge and Container Terminal and just across from Azores - being refitted before joining Cruise & Maritime Voyages next year.

We had breakfast and then pottered around on deck waiting for permission to leave. We saw our cases waiting on the quayside, so around 9.45am said our goodbyes and went to go ashore. As they were scanning our cards at the gangway, my friend was denied shore leave due to a so-called unpaid bill! As she had cleared her account last evening this was a complete surprise and a bit embarrassing. I continued down the gangway to claim our cases while she sorted it. She soon joined me and we walked out through the terminal to the car park expecting to see a car and driver with my name - nothing! After10 mins, I phoned the company and eventually was told it would 10-15 mins. By the time 10.30 came we were starting to panic and I called again. This time I was struggling to make myself understood, finally resorting to a phonetic language I thought he might understand - P for Portugal, O, O L for Lisbon, E for Estoril! One of the taxi drivers burst out clapping! Just as I was starting to lose it the car arrived - he had gone to Oriana! He quickly loaded our cases and we sped through the outer roads to the airport where we arrived at around 11.00 - just time to check-in our bags and then head through security. It was straightforward and we didn't have to show phones and cameras switched on. Into the departures lounge to wait for around an hour. When the time came to check in at the gate our passports were checked and we then had another wait. Apparently they had switched aircraft and ours needed refuelling etc. Finally we were able to climb the steps and find our seat. It was a bit cramped but I had room to stretch my legs out. We took off about 10 mins late but still arrived early.

 

In conclusion - Funchal is small and an old ship - we knew this and this was the attraction in booking her, BUT we enquired beforehand on various forums and no-one said she rolled so much. It may have been that her stabilisers were damaged while waiting out the storm in the Irish Sea. It never occurred to me that the retrofitted lifts didn't go up as far as our deck meaning we had to use the stairs, regardless. The crew were pretty much universally friendly and service was good. The food was tasty and interesting and often ethnic, although not always to my taste. I love fish, but the few I tried were very bony - which I hate. The cabin was small and storage limited but fine for our 8 days on board. The décor was a mixture of modern (to meet new SOLAS regs) and 1960s - fortunately a period I love. Daytime activities were limited and often childish but fun if you joined in with the right spirit. I loved the shows which were very different from mainstream lines - the dancers were balletic and the final show depicting the history of Portugal, captivating. Would I go again - probably not!

[Conte Di Savoia]

Well, I have to say that I really enjoyed your review of Funchal. After all it isn't so often that you can travel in a time machine back to the world of 1961! Travel can sometimes be more of an adventure than we bargained for and that was what happened here. I've never experienced, or hope to experience departing for one city with the expectation of meeting up with the ship only to be diverted elsewhere. I feel your anxiety over that circumstance.

 

I sometimes wonder if I were able to reboard the Leonardo Da Vinci, my first liner in July, 1961, what would I think? Would it be as great as I remember?

As much as I love the old ships, the one thing I don't miss are the cabins. That has certainly improved over the years. When we sailed on Saga Rose, at the beginning of the original thread, I warned the DH that this stateroom would be like no other he experienced. Two non-movable berths and one chair, no sofa, two portholes and just a small bath. Wonderful, but not arrangements that any current cruiser would find in anyway acceptable.

 

Still, the ship has a certain sense of a specific ethnic milieu. Was the staff Portuguese? I had the chance to see her on our last two trips to Lisbon, where she was idle at the pier, awaiting her fate. Luckily she is still sailing, but of course, she was never a deluxe liner, even in her prime. Still, it's great to see that much of her midcentury interior is still intact. I would travel on her if she were sailing from a nearby port, but sadly I doubt that we will ever see her on this side of the Atlantic.

[Host Sharon]

Hi Conte - yes the staff were mainly Portuguese and delightful. They all spoke good English. The ship was designed as a liner operating between Lisbon and the Azores, but had a brief life as the Portuguese presidential yacht! Fortunately I don't need all the bells and whistles of modern cruise ships entertainment wise and she had deck space galore. Photos will follow soon.

 

Portuscale Cruises is a new company who took over four of the five the old Classic International ships - Princess Danae (renamed Porto), Funchal, Athena (now Azores) and Arion (now Porto). Azores is going on longer charter to Cruise & Maritime next year.

[balf]

Hi Sharon, thanks for you very much for an excellent report.

 

Obviously this is not 5 star cruising (though we could say where is nowadays) but I wonder if you thought it good value, obviously leaving out the many itinary changes, compared with, say, the now ageing Oriana.

 

I was surprised that you were not told of the change fron Avonmouth to Liverpool. An e mail or phone call would normally be expected.

 

Also re your transport to the airport. Why did they send taxis rather than a coach, as would be normal. How many passengers were disembarking?

 

I only ask as I have been looking at the new "flagship" Magellan as a future possible although that is 30 years old, but the CM customer service seems to be not of the best.

 

David.

[Host Sharon]

Hi Sharon, thanks for you very much for an excellent report.

 

Obviously this is not 5 star cruising (though we could say where is nowadays) but I wonder if you thought it good value, obviously leaving out the many itinary changes, compared with, say, the now ageing Oriana.

 

I was surprised that you were not told of the change fron Avonmouth to Liverpool. An e mail or phone call would normally be expected.

 

Also re your transport to the airport. Why did they send taxis rather than a coach, as would be normal. How many passengers were disembarking?

 

I only ask as I have been looking at the new "flagship" Magellan as a future possible although that is 30 years old, but the CM customer service seems to be not of the best.

 

David.

 

I guess it was good value originally and I do prefer smaller ships, although Oriana is my favourite for her quiet elegance and ample public rooms and deck space. We didn't get tickets from CMV until four days before sailing which was stressful and they said they contacted everyone who booked direct and the agents of those using a TA (us). I am waiting to hear back from them as to whether or not they were contacted. The transfer and flight were independent as we wanted to fly back to Bristol airport. The CMV flights were the following day (no flights to Bristol on a Friday) and to Gatwick. As Funchal was staying in Lisbon there was a choice of whether to disembark Thursday or Friday. I guess the only way to know whether CMV suits you or not is to try them. This was our second CMV cruise (did Discovery last year and was a day late getting home then!) and I have to say I am still not impressed by the general experience - mainly daytime activities, events for solo travellers and extremely limited buffet areas. Even breakfast on both Discovery and Funchal was chaotic as people had to walk right across the MDR depending on what they wanted. Both times I went to see and experience the ships themselves rather than as a relaxing cruise.