Trip Report: ALASKA. Northbound Hubbard Glacier. Millennium. June 22, 2018.

[Anita Latte]

Trout fishing is always catch and release on the Kenai. All seasons. Year round. They are a protected fish.

 

The salmon return year after year. Regulations change frequently…even throughout the year. It’s recommended to double check with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, even on the day of fishing, to be sure you know the current regs…because regulations are dynamic. I recently read that the bag limit had increased on the Kenai on July 3…no idea what it is currently.

 

The idea is that the salmon population, by nature of their lifestyle, can be managed through limits. With the popularity of fishing on the Kenai though...the only way to manage the native trout population is to not allow any fisherman to keep any.

 

While we were on our small river island…Jake set DH up on a fly rod. DH was able to do some fishing with a more normal kind of fly fishing technique. Fun for DH…he hasn’t been fly fishing for trout in years and years.

 

He did catch one.

 

Jake set DS and I up with a different rod and reel…we would be doing a sort of reverse trolling technique.

 

You don’t cast your line…you let it out. The reel is a new to me style…you flip the locking thing like normal, but then you put your thumb on the reel on the line and slowly let the line out. You are letting it out into the current of the river…the current pulls on a fairly large lure…and that’s what draws the line out. When you’ve let out however many revolutions of the reel…you lock it again and wait.

 

The current makes the lure jig and bob and flash, attracting the attention of the trout. Your rod tip will be dancing a bit with this movement…but it’ll be a rhythmic and consistent movement. When you see your rod tip dance become erratic…then you know you have a fish on line and can reel it in like normal.

 

The thumb on the reel when you let it out is very important. The pressure from your thumb keeps the line spooled on the reel taut…prevents tangles. If you don’t apply enough pressure, then your line gets all jacked up. Not fun. Jake had to fix DS’ line…

 

I gave DS my rod while Jake performed his magic on that snarled line…and that’s how I ended up with the GOLD lure.

 

That lure is GOLDEN…it was the hot lure of the day!

 

Once the line was untangled…we hopped into the boat again and took off down the river aways. Jake at the helm!

 

 

While in the boat, Jake would do one of two things. He might throw down an anchor to keep the boat stationary while we 3 each let out however many revolutions Jake would tell us to. OR he would row against the current to keep the boat in place.

 

This is how it’s a bit of a reverse troll. We are letting out line and letting the river current do the work…trolling is usually letting line out the back of the boat and moving the boat through the water…letting the boat do the work. I don’t recall if that was the name Jake gave to the technique or if there’s a better title.

 

It’s a pretty relaxing way to fish. You don’t even have to hold your rod. Jake’s boat had rod handles on the sides…let out your line…put the rod in the rod handle thing…

 

 

Then you lean back…and wait. Wait for it…

 

 

Soak in the scenery…admire the view…have an inactive moment where you feel thankful to be where you are. The sun shining. The sound of the river...the rushing water is so relaxing. It’s a chill afternoon following a more active morning.

I didn’t catch a salmon…but I caught 5-6 trout…

 

 

AND a Dolly Varden!

 

 

And that’s how we learned what kind of fish that silver one was that DS caught in Juneau!

 

We stopped several times along the river to let out our line. Jake knew where the trout were. We caught fish in each stop.

 

Jake has had this gold lure for years. It is discontinued. Jake said the new ones don’t perform quite as well as the old ones. He is so sad…he scours eBay and the internet looking for it. And here I am…wishing I could remember exactly what it was.

DH and DS had the same lure in silver...but today...the gold was the producer.

The sun was more consistently out…you can see the blue of the river well in these photographs.

 

That blue river is surreal. It’s like a coloring book. Water is blue…so you grab a blue crayon and color in the river. Rivers NEVER look like that IRL. I’ve become quite accustomed to muddy rivers…literally BROWN rivers. I’ve seen dark rivers in the mountains…reflective rivers…but I’ve never seen a BLUE river before.

 

I try to avoid saying generic descriptors like “gorgeous” and “beautiful” because they aren’t helpful picture making words. But I can’t help it here. The Kenai River is one of the most beautiful rivers I’ve ever seen.

[Anita Latte]

Just wanted to say I am loving your review! We were engaged on Herbert Glacier during a short excursion from the Millennium! This brings back so many memories!

 

Thank you so much! That's a great engagement story! I'm so happy to help you revive your own memories!

 

I really need a like button! Your salmon are gorgeous (& I’m allergic to salmon [emoji22])

Sent from my iPad using Forums

 

That is so sad Melody. I can't imagine being allergic to salmon...I enjoy it so much! They are gorgeous fish.

[Anita Latte]

Earlier in the day…we had fished in the shadow of the one eagle overhead.

 

As we moved down the river…we saw more and more eagles…So. Many. Eagles.

 

Jake said that he had taken a family out earlier this year...the boy was on the autism spectrum. He was fascinated with the eagles and counted them all day. He had counted 68 eagles…

 

They were everywhere…all throughout the day.

 

While floating down to our gravel island stop…we floated directly under a juvenile eagle. I didn’t know that it takes a few years for the eagles to develop their bald coloring. The first picture is a bit blurry...I was in the boat for all these photos!…but you can see the eagle’s face…

 

 

 

Further downstream…we floated directly under a mature bald eagle.

 

 

 

The eagles are all over Kenai River. Occasionally…we would see them fly…but most of the ones we saw were hanging out. We saw this one land on this gravel island. Look directly up from the ground eagle in the photo…there is another in the trees in the distance.

 

 

There was an area where you couldn’t even count all the eagles hanging out. This photo has 6 eagles in it. Three mature eagles are easily seen with their white heads. There are also 3 juveniles…It’s like Where’s Waldo? Can you see them?

 

 

One is at the top of the bushy cucumber-shaped evergreen. One is directly above a white-headed bald eagle in the branchy tree in the middle of the photo. One is to the lower right of that same bald eagle. They are the brownish bird like shapes and silhouettes.

 

Seeing them is fun…HEARING them is exhilarating. Something about the cry of an eagle…

[Anita Latte]

We pulled out of the river around 3:30 PM.

 

I highly, HIGHLY recommend Jake. Not only is he a great guide…he is a patient teacher. He’s good company…someone you can enjoy just hanging out with.

 

You have to be licensed to be a guide on the Upper Kenai River. Jake may have said that there were about 25 licensed guides for the Upper Kenai?

 

He is working while we are fishing. He is so well prepared that everything he does seems effortless during the day.

 

One last shot looking upriver…the path we had taken:

 

 

We put out at Jim’s Landing.

 

http://www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=viewinglocations.jimslanding

Our boat for the day:

 

 

Jake hiked back to the Sportsman’s Access to get his truck and trailer. We stayed with the boat and had the opportunity to use the restroom at Jim’s Landing.

 

With the boat loaded…we took off our waders and wading shoes…and changed back into our own hiking boots.

 

We had a conversation regarding the fish…having a slight concern for the possibility of fish smell in our rental. Alaskan car rental agencies are quite clear about smell and blood in their rentals…you will be fined $500 in the event of either.

 

Jake had recommended a fish processor and that person was along his way home…so he dropped us off at our car and we followed him down the road to the fish processor.

 

We kept one whole fish filet side to eat for dinner that night. We processed the other seven.

 

We had 9.5 pounds to process!

 

The cost was under $2 per pound to portion, vacuum seal, and flash freeze our fish. Their small box was designed for up to 10 pounds. They would box up our fish in their airline approved box and packing. We could pick up the fish on Monday when we would be driving back to Anchorage from Seward.

 

Sweet.

 

The day couldn’t have gone any better…

 

We were ready for a shower!

 

I had scoped out a public shower at Wildman’s in Cooper Landing.

 

http://wildmans.org

 

The first order of business was a hot LATTE. You betcha.

It was raining a bit when we first arrived. There is an indoor dining area...a side room with a couple of long tables with benches.

 

Then showers. $18 for three showers and three towels. They also provide a floor mat. You get a token for the shower. The token will give you 10 minutes of running water in the shower. There are two showers. Each shower is in a wall-in closet like room with a 4-foot shower at the end.

 

A retired couple in line behind us were there to take showers too. We opted to let them take turns using the one room, while we 3 took turns in the other. There is a protocol posted for how they clean the showers…but since the people taking turns with the rooms were all family…we didn’t have them clean the showers in between. I took the first turn. The room was clean.

 

The shower was HOT. Gloriously HOT.

 

And it was the best water…it was the best shower I had had since Vancouver.

 

Ship water is awful. I never quite remember how hard it is. I hadn’t dug out my own toiletries…I had used the ship provided ones. My hair didn’t respond well to that combination. THIS shower had softer water. Myself and my hair felt the cleanest it had in over a week…

 

Our last order of business in Wildman’s was purchasing provisions for cooking the salmon. We had two pots. Both were more for boiling water…not at all suited for cooking salmon. We opted to buy a roll of aluminum foil…deciding on a parchment paper technique with foil. We also bought a locally made seasoning blend.

 

It was about 6:00 PM when we were ready to head back to the cabin.

 

 

Looked like no rain for our evening…a cooler night…and a really warm tomorrow.

[Anita Latte]

There wasn’t much traffic on the Sterling Highway at 6:00 PM.

 

Nor was there any construction until after mile 58…the eastern junction of the Skilak Lake Road and the highway. There were signs indicating construction ahead…but thankfully, Skilak Lake Road was our turnoff…so we didn’t have to deal with any consequences of construction.

 

I don’t know if the construction is ongoing or temporary…nor do I know if it causes any traffic delay. Something to research and take into account for those wanting to travel to Homer or any other coastal Kenai Peninsula town further along the Sterling Highway.

 

Skilak Lake Road is a good dirt road. Wide…well maintained. No need for a 4-wheel drive vehicle…our Chevy Malibu handled it fine.

 

 

It was in a tree dense area like above that we had sighted the bear this morning.

 

Our approach to our cabin was less intense than the previous night. We were a bit more leisurely with the drive…taking our time to view the sights. When we barreled along the road the previous evening and earlier this morning, we planned for this evening’s return to be the “Sunday drive.”

 

We paused at the Hidden Creek Overlook. A sign reads:

 

“When Hidden Creek and the Kenai River enter Skilak Lake, the water slows down and sediments are deposited at the lake inlet. As these sediments build up, a delta is created. This delta gradually shifts as water volume and sediment loads fluctuate.

 

Hidden Creek and the Kenai River are spawning grounds for red and silver salmon. When young salmon emerge from gravel beds, they swim into Skilak Lake and ultimately travel downriver to Cook Inlet.

 

Hidden Creek, Kenai River, and Skilak Lake support a diverse food web. Algae and plankton are eaten by insects and young fish. Gulls, cormorants, and waterfowl are attracted by juvenile salmon. Eagles, land otters, and bears rely on abundant migratory salmon.”

 

A labeled picture identifies the terrain of the overlook:

 

 

This is my own photo:

 

 

Panning to the right of the above photo…seeing the mountains sheltering Skilak Glacier and ultimately showing the end of the Harding Icefield which stretches to Exit Glacier and the other glaciers along the Kenai coast near Seward.

 

 

A sign at Jim’s Landing had given information about the different salmon species. For Sockeye Salmon (Red), what we had caught, it said:

 

“Sockeye salmon also return to the Kenai River in two distinct runs. The first run enters the Kenai River in early June and migrates through Skilak Lake to the Russain and Kenai River confluence, where they remain for approximately two weeks before continuing their migration up the Russian River. Late-run sockeye enter the Kenai River in mid-July and spawn in several locations, including the tributary streams, the mainstream Kenai River, and in Skilak and Kenai Lakes. Young sockeye emerge from the gravel in late spring and move into Skilak or other lakes, where they feed on plankton for up to two years before migrating to the ocean. After one to four years at sea, they return as adults to spawn.”

 

Skilak Lake is a large lake…the overlook is of the narrowest area at one end. It's much bigger than these photos would suggest.

Skilak Lake Road is touted to be “the premier wildlife-viewing area on the Kenai Peninsula, and you'll get spectacular views of lakes and glaciers.” Alaska.org is a really good website…full of information that is easy to read. There is a guide to Skilak Lake Road:

 

http://www.alaska.org/guide/skilak-lake-road-map

 

The contrast of the above road photo and the following show how quickly the weather can change. This is Upper Ohmer Lake. The sun has reappeared from cloud cover. We have left the tunnel of trees and entered a wider vista. This photo is only 12 minutes past the first road photo…but it could be a different day.

 

This is why layers are always recommended for Alaska. Conditions change constantly…you could feel warmer or cooler with more or less sunshine…with a smattering of rain or lack thereof…with wind or sheltered from the wind. Expect to adjust layers throughout the day to accommodate changing conditions and also your own variants in activity.

 

 

I realize now why some cars were driving so slowly into the area when we, heading out of the area, had passed them at a clip in our hurry to make our fishing date. The following webpage offers this Helpful Hint:

 

“To maximize your chances of seeing wildlife and avoiding traffic, drive the road slowly at 10 to 15 mph early in the day (before boaters start driving the road with trailers), or late in the evening. If you hike, go during daylight hours, with company, and be bear aware.”

 

http://www.kenaipeninsula.org/kenai_guide/Skilak%20Lake%20Road.htm

 

Oops.

 

Note: You can still see bears when driving at a normal pace…

 

Reading these links again now…I wonder if we sighted the bear near where the road crosses Hidden Creek near the campground turn off?

 

The Alaska.org guide to this road is well done…reading it now from the perspective of having been there at all. As I thought we when were there…it would be so easy to spend more time in this area, especially if you are an outdoors enthusiast.

 

The campground was full when we returned to Engineer Lake. The teenagers were still there and it appeared that families had joined the campground.

 

We hit the trail to the cabin.

[Anita Latte]

This is the Seven Lakes Trail.

 

I turned around and looked back to the trailhead and parking lot:

 

 

In many places it’s an easy trail.

 

For the most part…the trail follows the lake shore with a decent buffer of trees and vegetation…you don’t feel as if you could fall into the lake…except for a very few spots where the trail itself is on the edge of the lake.

 

Numerous places offer tree framed views of the surrounding landscape. You can see cloud shadows contrasting with sun drenched hillside:

 

 

Wildflowers are in bloom.

 

 

 

There are places where the trail is more rugged…and there is a bit of terrain to break up the flat:

 

 

It’s much easier to hike along without a backpack!

 

Carrying backpacks was the primary reason for why we 3 wanted hiking boots for our Alaska vacation…maximum ankle support for the increased load. You could easily hike these trails without the hiking boots…but you would want waterproof sneakers…or have treated your sneakers to be waterproof. There were areas of the trail that were bog-like with standing water from the recent rains. You could avoid the puddles but were still stepping in damp vegetation.

 

The views from the trail are 100% nature. We couldn’t even see the cabin from any point along the trail.

 

[Anita Latte]

We arrived at the cabin READY for dinner.

 

The scones and the croissant were HOURS ago.

 

We were ready to start the campfire…start up the stove…and get cookin’.

 

First…mosquito repellant.

 

Where is it?

 

Oh no.

 

Oh no, oh no, oh no, oh no.

 

I had taken the mosquito repellant with us for the day on the river…uncertain as to whether or not we would need it. It had been placed in the day pack that DH had taken along for our fishing excursion…the same backpack that was left in the car for the hike back to the cabin. I thought I had transferred everything we needed from that pack!

 

Sigh.

 

I would have hiked back to the car myself…but DH aka Safety Man…could not in good conscience let his DW hike a mile alone back to the car…and then a mile alone back to the cabin. Not without cell service.

 

Not in a strange place.

 

Not when there are STRANGERS present in a strange place…no matter how normal everyone seemed.

 

Addams Family Values. DS and I can quote that movie, almost verbatim. It has been our packing movie in times past. Playing it over and over again because we find it entertaining…and we like ambient noise when we do other things…especially packing.

 

Where is your costume Wednesday? “This is my costume. I’m a homicidal maniac. They look just like everybody else.”

 

DH and his knee hiked to and back with the mosquito repellant to save our hides from the bloodthirsty high-pitched ear buzzers.

 

Best DH EVER!

 

Meanwhile…he expected that fire to get started at the least…and the stove to get started too, if possible.

 

The dead fall wasn’t plentiful…but DS and I gathered what we could to augment what someone else had left behind. We also found the smaller and medium sized sticks needed to grow a decent fire. When DH returned…there was a fire going. Hot coals on which to cook our fresh catch of the day were nearly ready.

 

The stove was a whole ‘nother story.

 

We had purchased a new stove that is basically a tiny raised and contained fire ring. Good oxygen flow. Safe burning. This ring sits in a metal housing that has a support on which you can put a small diameter pot or pan.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0125U36Q2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

We had watched a functionally similar stove in action on “Running Wild with Bear Grylls.” Thinking this would alleviate our need for dealing with fuel…the purchase and transportation thereof…we purchased this stove and were using it for the first time tonight.

 

Getting the fire going is tricky. It’s not easy to get it lit when it’s all enclosed in the stove…there must be a hack…to make it easier…because it was a PITA to get it going. Once we did get it going…it worked well.

 

We were eating around 9:00 PM.

 

Tonight’s menu: instant Pho soup appetizer with freshly caught Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon for the main and Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups for dessert.

 

 

The lakeside picnic table was a bit rough on the bum…but the view more than made up for the lack of backrest and the disposable plastic flatware:

 

 

Best camping meal EVER.

 

Much of our dinner conversation speculated as to the origin of the dead flower bouquets laying in bundles all over our campsite.

 

DS and I had debated using the dead long stem roses for kindling. While it would make for good fire starter…it was a sad prospect…burning flowers. We decided to leave all the wilted and brown stems in peace. Over dinner…we all conjured possibilities for why the dozens of dozens of flowers were strewn about…lying next to small holes and stakes were they must have edged the campsite in a stunning floral border.

 

Was it a proposal? Had a romantic heart decked out the rustic cabin to create a stage fit for popping the big question? Anniversary? Honeymoon?

 

The cabin has a guest book / journal that stays in the cabin. Therein are the stories that those who overnight in the cabin share…if they choose to do so.

 

It turns out that there had been a wedding at Engineer Lake Cabin. Deciding to marry where they had gotten engaged…the bride and groom had used kayaks to transport all the supplies for their big day. Their journal entry was a detailed passage describing their big day.

 

Fun.

 

Fun to read the stories of those that had come before. Some were more focused on the weather…others about their activities. Many were locals…many were from out of state.

 

After dinner time was chore time. Gather the trash (pack out all trash). Refill the water purifier. Stoke the fire. Gather more wood. Etc. Etc.

 

Then I decided to practice my flower picture taking…

 

The purple iris at the shoreline were in full bloom:

 

 

 

And yet, there were still so many buds yet to open. The water was so clear…

 

[Anita Latte]

Many of our best family talks happen around a campfire.

 

This evening was one that we had been anticipating for a long time. Getaway from our normal routine…break from it all…new surroundings where there was no pressure or thought of doing anything other than what we were doing. A whole lot of nothing. The ultimate time of relaxing and staring into a fire…enjoying nature…listening to the quiet.

 

And the not so quiet.

 

As I said…we weren’t alone.

 

One of the new arrivals had brought kayaks…which were used that evening.

 

We could hear music in the distance.

 

Laughter.

 

The unintelligible voices in conversation from the kayaks on the water…

 

Still…it was peaceful. Happy family time.

 

In the earlier part of the evening…I did remember to take photos to chronicle the light.

 

We were in awe of the light.

 

Scott had explained how the setting and rising of the sun is like a U. Further south…the sun obviously rises in the East…sets in the West. The sun can appear to be centered in the horizon in each direction. Not so in Alaska.

 

In Alaska, you can look to the horizon to see the sun set and rise in virtually the same line of sight. The sun sets over there and pops back up above the horizon just a little further over there. You can picture it dipping below the horizon in the path of a U-shape.

 

Prior to our trip, I had ordered a custom Topo Map. DH and I have never gone overnight backpacking without one.

 

http://www.mytopo.com/search.cfm

 

I was able to center Engineer Lake on my map in such a way as to include whatever surroundings I preferred. I could zoom in to my preference as well…AND select the size map I wanted.

 

Pulling out this map…spreading it like a tablecloth on the picnic table…finding the orientation of the map to the surrounding area and trying to pick out which mountain was which was a good time.

 

Of course, we have no idea if we were accurate in our assessment…we could see much further than the constraints of our map.

 

We THINK that the snow spotted mountains to the left of my sunset study is Russian Mountain at 4318 feet…and that the flatter snowless peak directly to the left is Bear Mountain at 3314 feet. Both peaks were seen from the Hidden Creek Overlook earlier.

 

9:30 PM. You can see the deepening shadows as the sun descends…and the intensity of the sun on the hillside as the lowered sun is closer to the land.

 

 

10:30 PM. One hour later. Wanting to provide some perspective…I framed the view with the tree and plants from my side of the lake. The shadows have grown longer and taller. The water is quieter…more reflective.

 

 

11:00 PM. Complete shadow. I can’t decide if I prefer the photo with more sky or more water…

 

 

 

Meanwhile…the view in the other direction.

 

10:40 PM…the intensity of the lowering sun shining on the hillside…and the beginnings of shadow…

 

 

11:00 PM…the sun hasn’t set yet. It was scheduled for 11:30 PM…only the snow-capped mountains remain in the light…

 

 

I know we were up past midnight…but I was more involved with family…less with picture taking.

 

When we finally did hit the hay…we were surprised by how light the cabin was compared to the evening before. Last night, the cloud cover was thick…but tonight the clouds were sparse and there was a LOT more light in the cabin.

 

DS and I had the brilliant notion to fashion a window shade for the door out of the aluminum foil!

 

We didn’t cover all the windows so it took a while to relax into sleep. We were tired but the light! Not so sleepy.

 

It didn’t help when we could start hearing the call of the dog owners…I thought for sure I would remember that name as it kept me awake for a while. Let’s call him Buster.

 

Buuuuuuuuuuuusterrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUsterrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Heeeeeeeerre Buuuuuuuuuuuusterrrrrrrrr!

 

We heard their approach up the Seven Lakes Trail…we heard them come down OUR trail toward our cabin. Safety man had to get ready…stand up and be alert…even though the door was locked.

 

There IS a lock on the door. A deadbolt lock only so you can’t lock yourself out…but you can lock yourself in to the cabin with four windows…one on each wall…and the door with a huge window…

 

There were no incidents.

 

The search and rescue continued…and eventually, we didn’t hear them any longer…

 

Eventually, we were able to fall asleep.

 

We had a portable charger that we had used to charge the phones that needed it. We did have an alarm set. We needed to pack up. Clean up. Hike out and drive to Seward the next day for a 2:00 PM excursion.

 

And for peace of mind…we did see Buster the next day in the parking lot…

[Joby]

Lovin' every minute of it!!! Anita, you're a real trooper and adventurer. I can hear your voice while I'm reading along, it makes it very personable for me :) What a fortunate family trip.

[Anita Latte]

Lovin' every minute of it!!! Anita, you're a real trooper and adventurer. I can hear your voice while I'm reading along, it makes it very personable for me :) What a fortunate family trip.

 

Thanks Kim! There was a lot of planning for this trip. I tried very hard to make the trip reflect US and somehow make it all work. I feel very fortunate that we were able to take this trip. It was a good one. It all added up to a great summer before DS starts his senior year.

 

Speaking of...classes begin tomorrow!!:eek: Didn't I JUST take him to Kindergarten?

 

This weekend has been all about the last weekend of summer and getting ready for the new school year. I'll be back to trip reporting tomorrow.

[Anita Latte]

Today is an exciting day! We are going kayaking in Seward. The half-day excursion on Bear Glacier Lagoon.

 

http://liquid-adventures.com/content/bear-glacier-kayaking

 

This is the excursion that DH…when he saw the graphic of a kayaker dwarfed by a giant iceberg in the background…said I want THAT! Pointing at my computer screen.

 

Rapids are not our thing. We toodle kayak. Toodle along a lake mostly. Our first foray into kayaking was in Georgia. George L. Smith State Park. It’s like kayaking in a forest…a forest in a lake.

 

Seriously…cypress and tupelo trees are IN the water. They are blazed with a couple different trails…so you follow along a lake TRAIL.

 

Let’s face it…kayaking in a lake can be kind of boring if you don’t have something to add a bit of interest to a big expanse of water. The trees created a whole different kind of world to explore.

 

Icebergs! We anticipated kayaking in the midst of icebergs to be a perfect toodle along.

 

We awake to gloriously, mostly blue sky. Warm weather. No rain.

 

It was a good night’s rest. We had adjusted to the creaks and groans of the wooden bunk beds. Our diligence with the door and smacking down trespassers was rewarded…fewer night time blood suckers. And it was blessedly cooler...

 

We awoke refreshed. A little stiff…but feeling like we had good rest.

 

Check out time is 12 noon. Our excursion begins at 2:00 PM…about 90 minutes away…nice timing.

 

We set water to boil for coffee and tea. We packed up…swept the cabin…made sure all was in readiness for the next occupants.

 

Had our continental breakfast (Lara Bars and fruit) with a view…such a calm day…not a ripple on the lake at 10:00 AM.

 

 

Hiking out…driving to Seward. Completely uneventful. We delighted in the sunshine and warmth.

 

The weather on the Kenai Peninsula…

 

 

I like to be early. I had it in my head that we NEEDED to be early to be outfitted for the excursion. We arrived around 1:30 PM.

 

Liquid Adventures is located in a funny little deck surrounded by 3 or 4 train cars. The train cars form a courtyard where there is outdoor seating…benches, tables and chairs. Liquid Adventures is in one of the train cars…The Train Wreck and the Smoke Shack restaurants are in the others. The air around the restaurants smells FABULOUS.

 

We had eaten beef jerky and other grocery store provisions along the ride…choosing to budget breakfast plus as a non-restaurant meal…but the mouth-watering aroma in the air was tempting…only lack of time was holding us back. In future…I might have to plan an earlier arrival to enjoy a more substantial breakfasty brunch at either:

 

Train Wreck

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Train-Wreck/253325028040302

 

Smoke Shack

http://smokeshack.four-food.com/?utm_source=tripadvisor&utm_medium=referral

 

Reviews on Trip Advisor look good…

 

Warm and sunny weather continued in Seward...I took this later that night...but you can see the high was 65:

 

 

It was a HEAT wave in Seward. The locals were wearing camis and shorts…basking in the glory of the sun and warmth…it was the day they had been waiting for…one of the first sunny and warm days of the season they said.

 

We were really early but it felt good to have the time to ask about what we should wear…it seemed too nice to wear tons of layers. We were in short-sleeved SmartWool shirts…and these were fine. We added fleece pullovers once we were underway…only because it was significantly cooler on the water. Our typical technofabric pants. SmartWool socks.

 

Libby was our paddle guide. Originally from Anchorage…her family has relocated to Southern California but she returns to Alaska each summer. She considers Bear Glacier HER stomping grounds…she has fun stories to tell about documentaries and filming and being asked to paddle in the lagoon for these things. She’s younger…full of energy…and SHE was excited about the weather…pumped up to be going out today.

 

She outfitted us in our dry suits. These are long-sleeved, long-pants “onesies” with a diagonal zipper from one shoulder to lower than the other arm pit. We’ll be riding for one hour in a boat to get to the lagoon…so we only put on the pants and tie the arms around our waists for the ride.

 

We get special neoprene booties and Crocs.

 

Libby talks of her conversion to Crocs…her initial resistance but now how handy she finds them.

 

I’ve never worn Crocs…I tried the originals on once…thought they felt kind of icky barefoot and never bothered to try other styles. They DO work well for cold water kayaking…accommodating the big neoprene booties with ease.

 

If you leave a photo ID as a security deposit, you can borrow a wet bag for your phone…the kind that is a lanyard style hanging around your neck. The kind that allows you to still use your phone through the bag.

 

We didn’t bother. This excursion was one major reason for why I bought the new Ricoh rugged camera.

 

We were also given a wet bag for whatever gear we wanted to take along.

 

We left our car rental keys in the office on their advice…they stashed them for us behind a locked cabinet. Shoes and other unneeded on the excursion items were simply left under the benches and chairs where we had changed out of the them.

 

All suited up…we were good to go.

 

There’s a maximum 6 persons for this excursion.

 

We all trekked down to the dock…an easy walk…to board the jetboat.

 

The jetboat is one of the fastest boats in the harbor. Capable of traversing in as little as one foot of water…it is the perfect boat for this excursion. Liquid Adventures custom ordered the boat to their specifications for the layout.

 

Bear Glacier now sits at the end of a lagoon. Once upon a time ago…Bear Glacier reached further to the sea. While the glacier has receded…the original moraine still stands…creating a sheltered bay of water called a glacier lagoon. The lagoon is accessed by a small break in the moraine of old, now more of a glacier silt sandbar…which provides the perfect launching point for the kayaks.

 

It’ll take about an hour to get to the lagoon by jetboat.

 

Excursions in Alaska feel so welcomingly casual. Unhurried. I’m sure they are on a schedule…and the guides and everyone will keep us on schedule…but I believe the excursions include a lot of what my family calls MARGIN. Margin for error…extra time…PADDING.

 

Walking down to the boat…we encountered one of the locals in the harbor. A retired man in his 70s or 80s who was fixing up a boat to go on the trip of a lifetime...a pretty small looking boat to my eyes for the sailing he was planning. I can’t recall the agenda but I do remember thinking…WOW…brave.

 

Anyway…he had a load of tools…a cooler…STUFF. Libby grabbed one side of his burden and helped him carry his stash of goods over to his boat. While she did this…the “driver” of our boat told us the story of this local character.

 

This is the prevailing attitude we encountered. Helpfulness. Friendliness. Unhurried. Mindful is a good word for it. Aware of the people and places around and pitching in…a sense of community. We LOVED it.

 

Safety briefing time.

 

We were warned that the seas were a bit choppy today…there’d be some up and down action on the water. Having experienced this in ISP…we were familiar. We were advised that the outside aft area would be have the least action on the water…being the most stable seat on the boat. We could sit out there…

 

OR we could sit inside the cabin. The cabin is a double wide…having a large center aisle with benches on either side.

 

We chose to sit outside…no glass between us and the view.

 

There are two seats…one in each corner aft…the raised seat is closer to rail height…it looks a bit precarious to me? Especially if we would be in choppy seas? We sat on the floor of the aft…which is bench like as the aft deck is a raised platform with steps down to the cabin level.

 

So our forward view was through the cabin. We sat staring at the closed doors once we were underway. This split view photo shows the interior of the cabin through the open door…and DH’s reflection as he puts on sunscreen. He’s sitting on the “bench” and the young lady behind him taking the photo was sitting on one of the actual seats.

 

 

We puttered through the harbor and out into open waters…

 

We looked to the sides for the view… Holland America Line ship in port today…

 

 

Marathon Mountain overlooking the harbor…

 

[Anita Latte]

Resurrection Bay is a long, deeper than wide Bay with the city of Seward near the end of the bay. The word on the web is that you need to take a day cruise of longer than 5 hours to get OUT of the bay and see nearby Kenai Fjords National Park.

 

We were hauling to get out of the bay and to the lagoon.

 

Ear plugs were available for the ride.

 

Sitting outside…we probably should have had ear protection. The motor is at the back of the jetboat and it was loud. DH used to wear ear protection when using our gas-powered trimmer...but Safety Man didn’t grab any ear protection for the ride so we listened to the very loud hum for an hour.

 

It was loud enough that I asked of DS how his ears were doing. He is a bit more sensitive to such things…and his hearing is so important with his music…but he was okay. Something to be aware of though.

 

We had a full excursion. We 3, another couple and a single younger woman.

 

The single woman had stayed in the cabin. She was on her day off…she normally is a tour guide with Major Marines.

 

The other couple was split, each sitting in one of the chairs at the aft deck corners. They were getting SOAKED. The water was splashing up and hitting them full on during the ride. They suited up fully…looking like they were having a blast. They thought it was hilarious. He was taking many pictures of her with the big sprays of water arcing beside her, behind her, and all over her…

 

We were staying dry…sitting low and closer to the cabin. Our seat’s downside? The aft deck is hard. NO CUSHION. All that wave action…the up and slap down…OMG. It wasn’t so bad in the beginning…but…it was like hot food that doesn’t hit you until multiple bites in. That heat build-up that starts to burn…this was like wave buildup that started to burn.

 

Easy enough to adjust your sit…and relieve some of the rear end “burn”. Lean this way. Lean that way…but if that ride were any longer? I would have retired to the cabin.

 

As it was…Libby regularly looked back and checked on us. We could have returned to the cabin at any time…we just needed to signal and they would have slowed to a safe speed to both open the door and walk.

 

Off the starboard side…looking to the shore…the RV park and campgrounds on the Seward side of the bay…

 

 

On the other side of the bay…between the green hillsides and the snowy mountains behind is Thumb Cove. This photo offers a poor view of what I’m pretty sure are four glaciers on those mountains: Porcupine, Spruce, Spoon and Prospect. You can clearly see them from the bay a little further along…I couldn’t get a better photo heading in this direction though…

 

 

Our first view of Bear Glacier in the distance as we came around Callisto Head…entering the sheltered area created by the old moraine.

 

 

We had boarded the jetboat via the aft deck on the dock. To deboard, we walked through the door in the windshield (watch your head!) and stepped down the ladder and into shallow water. Yay dry suit!

 

 

The morning tour was waiting for the jet boat to ride back to Seward…

 

Here we suited up fully. There’s a neoprene turtle neck in the suit. It’s a bit of a struggle to “birth” yourself through the opening… We also donned life vests.

 

My Ricoh WG-50 camera came with a sturdy strap with a carabiner. I could secure the carabiner to my life vest and tuck the camera so it didn’t swing around…but could be easily held for taking pictures.

 

We could take our wet bags onto the kayaks with us…or there was a locker they kept there with the kayaks into which we could store our dry bags.

 

Libby rowed a single kayak. The six persons on the excursion would ride in tandem kayaks.

 

We had decided that either DH or I would ride with DS…it would depend on the the odd person on our excursion. She was a girl…she naturally looked to me for sharing the tandem ride…so there you go.

 

DH and DS in their kayak. There’s a break in the land bar where you can just see the blue indications of the icebergs floating in the lagoon. That’s where we are headed…

 

 

It’s a bit of ways out there…these are my Crocs looking across that expanse of water to the lagoon opening.

 

[Anita Latte]

Besides the obvious difference in cost and tour length, the main difference between the Half-Day Bear Glacier excursion compared to the Full-Day excursion is how close to the glacier you will paddle. You need the full day in order to paddle the 2-3 miles it is from the entrance to the lagoon to a closer proximity to the glacier face. With the half day, the expectation is that you will play around in the icebergs and admire the glacier from a distance.

 

We 3 were well prepared in expectation. That is to say…we were prepared for the underwhelming view of the glacier in the distance. I admit to hoping that the wonderland of icebergs would make more of an immediate visual impact…but this lagoon landscape is ever changing.

 

The lagoon is a nest of iceberg filled water in a glacier-created depression cupped by mountains. It’s a wonder still.

 

 

I had asked Libby how long it takes for there to be a noticeable change in the appearance of the glaciers.

 

Depending on the weather…it can look different even later the same day.

 

The icebergs are in constant motion…it’s just largely undetectable. Wind and rain can significantly impact the location and shape of the icebergs. Sunshine...warmth...it all affects the seascape.

 

The icebergs are constantly shrinking. The SOUND of running water was very unexpected. It makes sense that the icebergs melt…but I was not prepared for waterfalls on glaciers and the resulting constant lullaby from the flow of water falling ALL AROUND.

 

My map identifies the tallest peak along the pictured range at elevation 3768 feet. My kayak-mate said that the pointed mountain peaks were above the glaciers and ice of years past…while the rounded peaks were covered in glaciers and ice, which is how they became rounded.

 

 

Close up of water falling off this iceberg…

 

 

I also wasn’t prepared to see CALVING from an ICEBERG. WOW.

 

My kayak-mate said that, on the Major Marine tours, she’s often asked how big the icebergs are in the lagoon. The Major Marine tour viewing of Bear Glacier is from even further back than our kayak tour…so several miles away. The answer is that the icebergs can be as big as a typical Costco.

 

This is my best perspective shot for showing how big any particular iceberg is…this is DH and DS:

 

 

For safety reasons, we are not allowed to paddle within a distance that equals at least the height of each iceberg if not double plus extra space for good measure. The large icebergs can break apart…which Libby said these had…

 

 

Libby paddled up to a small iceberg…above water it was similar in size to a chest style cooler. She broke off pieces of glacier ice for each of us to see and handle…and munch on if we desired.

 

The clearest ice I have ever seen.

 

 

And tasty.

 

DS liked it so much…he broke off another piece. It was the proverbial last straw…and with that loss of mass…that little iceberg flipped over.

 

We could all only imagine the magnified effect if one of the big ones should do the same.

 

From the variations in rate of melting, the icebergs take on fantastic shapes…they can be lopsided…top heavy…and otherwise unstable as their mass changes…they are floating in water, so they bob and dip and flip and respond just as you expect something floating in water would. The movement can be sudden and dramatic…so we keep our distance.

 

Paddling around and admiring the icebergs…I finally HEARD a glimmer of that glacier sound that so many talk about. One of the icebergs was quite active sound-wise…we steered well clear of that one as, to put it another way…that one was about to blow. Or do whatever it was going to do...

 

We paddled around the lagoon for about an hour or so. We pulled out at a beachy area. It was a far into the lagoon as we would paddle.

[Anita Latte]

It was a nice break. Stand up…have a stretch.

 

If you needed to hide behind a bush…this was your opportunity.

 

Libby had brought along a snack…homemade brownies! Ooey gooey goodness. And Capri Suns…which tasted awesome.

 

We had time to take photos. Capture the moment...everyone got a photo of themselves and their group with the glacier in the background.

 

Photos?

 

This is my artistic photo of Bear Glacier:

 

 

My favorite framed shot with a beachy shore in the foreground...I'm pretty sure that's a smudge on my camera lens...

 

 

My kayak-mate had brought a major camera set up. Tri-pod and everything. She set up and took many photos.

 

It wasn’t a short or long break…just enough to feel refreshed and ready to go again. It was time to head back.

 

Libby explained that we would not be setting a pace necessarily…we could continue to be somewhat leisurely but we would be headed in a more direct route back to “base camp”.

 

This is easy kayaking. The water is sheltered. On a windy day, this might require more effort…but overall…this excursion doesn’t require too much skill nor effort. The tandem kayaks make it much easier.

 

IF you are on the same page as your companion, of course.

 

My kayak-mate was taking a lot of pictures…and I was too…but I know that I was doing the lion’s share of effort. I know she floated along with me…for the majority of the excursion.

 

The difference when she decided to paddle was evident when she thought she saw a bear on the old glacier moraine…further down the glacier silt sand bar from our landing spot. SUDDENLY, we were HAULING…as she was PADDLING away…yelling for Libby, who was well ahead of us…trying to warn her and alert her to the…oh…DOG that was running down beachy shoreline scaring the seeming MILLIONS of seagulls into flight.

 

Like seriously…wear a hat and beware.

 

We had passed a couple tents that had been set up nearer to the entrance to this sort of barrier island like zone just outside the lagoon. The dog belonged to the campers…

 

And I got to feel what it might have been like if my kayak-mate had paddled more…

 

No matter.

 

The weather was outstanding…couldn’t have been better. My eyes had been amazed all afternoon…as had my ears with the lovely sound of the running water giving the day a peaceful ambiance.

 

The lagoon is otherworldly.

 

We likened the seascape of the lagoon to The Garden of the Gods in Colorado. If you have been there…you have seen the sculptural red rocks standing tall in sharp contrast to the greens and browns of the rolling terrain.

 

Photos from the day that I love…

 

 

 

 

[Sailor_Sally]

Those photos are absolutely gorgeous .They capture the beauty of Alaska .You will remember this trip forever .

[Anita Latte]

Thank you Sally! Alaska is beautiful. I definitely want to go back...though I don't know when we'll be able to. And you're absolutely right...I will remember this trip forever. This was a good one...many distinct memories.

[Italy52]

Beautiful excursion. I love seeing icebergs and the many shapes that they present.

[JerseyShoreGirl0732]

 

 

 

Anita, I also found the plant life in Alaska to be massive! I did find out that this plant with the giant leaves is Devil's Club. It supposedly has some great medicinal uses. I bought salve and lip balm made with it but haven't used either yet.

 

I'm catching up on your review. Your photos leaving Ketchikan and arriving in ISP are just beautiful!

[Anita Latte]

Beautiful excursion. I love seeing icebergs and the many shapes that they present.

 

I just didn't know! Logically, it makes sense that you see all the shapes but until seeing it, it didn't register how fascinating and interesting icebergs are! Where else have you seen icebergs?

 

Anita, I also found the plant life in Alaska to be massive! I did find out that this plant with the giant leaves is Devil's Club. It supposedly has some great medicinal uses. I bought salve and lip balm made with it but haven't used either yet.

 

I'm catching up on your review. Your photos leaving Ketchikan and arriving in ISP are just beautiful!

 

Nice. I bought a balm when I bought the insect repellent. I think it's cottonwood based...I'm going to look now and see if it has any Devil's Club too. Use your balm! I have a hoarding habit of keeping special things to use at special times...I'm working hard to break that, which is why I say use your special balm! Where did you pick yours up?

[Anita Latte]

We were the last excursion of the day…I think they normally run two…a morning and an afternoon. Chore time…secure the kayaks and related gear for the night. Everything stays at what I’ll call “base camp”. The large chest-style locker…where we had stored our wet bags while we were kayaking…keeps the PFDs and whatnot. Get the kayaks out of the water…cover.

 

It doesn’t take long. Libby and the jet boat driver make short work of the chores.

 

Meanwhile…we are stripping out of our dry suit upper…retying the arms around our waists, etc. Removing any other unnecessary extra layers. Taking our last photos of the area…

 

My artsy kayaks with Bear Glacier in the distance…the blue one is Libby's single...the yellow is a tandem we used.

 

 

 

This excursion is beginner kayaker friendly. You don’t need any previous experience…especially on a calm day like today. If the weather wasn’t as cooperative…if there was a bit more action in the water due to wind…then previous experience may be more helpful. If you’ve practiced your paddling technique, you may be more efficient in your rowing and able to row for longer without fatiguing as much.

 

Libby did give rudimentary instruction. Didn’t matter if you had paddled before…her methodology was very simple.

 

First, she had given everyone paddling gloves.

 

Coolest idea EVER for paddling…these “gloves” are more like hand protectors that are permanently attached to the paddles…fastened in a state of perma-grip to the paddle. Slide them to the middle and out of the way if you don’t need them. If you want to cover your hands…you slip your hands into the “gloves”…which have a neoprene cuff. They are more like paddle mittens than gloves.

 

After Libby attached the gloves…she had everyone follow her lead to find their proper grip placement.

 

A brief instruction on how to NOT tire your biceps…use bigger less fatiguing muscles by copying her stroke. It’s like preschool follow the leader…we all stand in a circle around her and it doesn’t matter if you have done this before or not…everyone participates and no one is singled out.

 

She helps you get into the kayaks and pushes you off.

 

She will also help you get out…dragging your kayak further up onto the shore…securing it so that you can brace yourself on the kayak when you get in and out without worrying about your kayak shifting under you.

 

Experience is not an issue here…though it may give more confidence. I think the couple with us were kayaking for the first time.

 

If you have never kayaked before, I would recommend doing just a bit of reading on proper stroke technique. Libby did talk about engaging your core but she didn’t mention using your legs.

 

I know that sounds odd…especially if you haven’t kayaked before…but paddling can be initiated in your legs…pushing forward with the one foot while relaxing the other naturally rotates your hips…engage your core and basically your arms and shoulders just move the paddle from one side of the kayak to the other, transmitting the power from your lower body movement. You really don’t have to use your shoulders or arms at all…they just hold the paddle.

 

There are instructions out there on paddling technique and getting that information into your head will help you not wear yourself out…especially if you, like me, have more power in your legs than in your arms.

 

Especially if your arms are just a bit tired because fishing all day…when you basically never go fishing…can be surprisingly fatiguing in the arms and shoulders.

 

Also…you aren’t paddling the entire time. There are times of rest. Just hanging out and taking it all in. Taking photos. It’s not a couple hours of constant, active paddling.

 

As a lower effort activity…this is well-suited for being toward the end of the vacation. We 3 really appreciated the sitting down aspect of this activity.

 

Everyone rode in the cabin on the way back to Seward.

 

The jetboat:

 

 

Libby asked everyone if we were up for some tunes for the ride back?

 

OF COURSE.

 

We cruised back along smoother waters to The Killers…Awesome.

 

The bay was just as interesting on the ride back. The view doesn’t get old…

 

There was also a large boat…like a tanker? being towed into the bay. It took 3-4 tug boats to tow that large boat. Libby shared the story about what had happened…it seemed like a local story…the latest gossip about boats in the area.

 

There are a lot of otters that like to hang out in Seward harbor. Easy pickings for food…so cute. Otters are good entertainment.

 

When we deboarded and headed up to the main dock, we saw that there was a big weigh in happening for a halibut derby. OMG…halibut are HUGE fish. A crowd was gathered around the scale...cheers and reactions all around as the different fish were weighed in.

 

A last look at the harbor…

 

 

We asked Libby and the other Liquid Adventure guides present where they liked to eat dinner in town.

 

Remove the dry suit, etc. Put on our own shoes. Recover the car rental keys...it was time to check into our hotel cabin.

 

I had called before we left for our excursion to confirm that we would be a late arrival as indicated on our reservation…we would be there around 6:00 PM or so. The manager appreciated the call.

 

A quick check of Maps for directions…and we were off.

[Anita Latte]

Our lodging for the night…Cabin 4 at The Exit Glacier Lodge. $143.17 for one night.

 

http://sewardalaskalodging.com

 

Affordable lodging in Seward during peak season is scarce. In town, you will pay a double whammy of higher nightly fees AND higher taxes (11% total).

 

Exit Glacier Lodge is out of city limits…taxes are only 3%.

 

Located on the road to Exit Glacier…it is convenient to town, but not walkable.

 

Looking at budget hotels similarly priced…the cabin at Exit Glacier seemed a good deal. A bit more privacy and isolation compared to a standard hotel room. Coming off the public use cabin…I had thought this would continue our more rustic, be around fewer people type accommodation.

 

When we checked in…the lady manager said…Ahhh, I see you’re staying with the moose and the bears tonight.

 

The hotel itself is quaint…having that Old West rustic charm.

 

The cabins too are rustic…but not in the cute log cabin style of our public use cabin. These are rustic in the wow-this-shack-has-running-water kind of way.

 

Located in the midst of mosquito harboring weeds and “natural” landscaping…these are FUNCTIONAL cabins. The four cabins are clustered together…each within a stone’s throw of the other. Cabins 1 and 2 are freestanding…Cabins 3 and 4 are like a cabin duplex. They are next to the parking lot for the onsite restaurant.

 

The parking map supplied at check-in is inaccurate. If you are staying in Cabins 3 or 4…you will think that you can park in an area that doesn’t exist. Good luck finding parking for any of the four cabins if the onsite restaurant is busy. You may have to find a more temporary space and then move your vehicle closer to the cabins after the crowd thins.

 

Cabin 4 has an occupancy of 3. Furnished with a queen-sized bed and a twin-sized mattress. The twin mattress was on a sort of platform in a recessed nook. I don’t recall if there were drawers or just storage space under that carpeted “shelf” upon which the twin mattress lay? There was a mini-fridge and microwave as well as a vintage, small, tube style television with Cable.

 

The bathroom is a shower only bathroom with a small sink.

 

Everything is clean but dated. The décor is aiming for quaint rustic touches in the midst of being functional.

 

There is a window-unit type furnace that could also blow cooler air.

 

There was one small window.

 

I’m hard pressed to say that I would ENJOY staying here for more than one night. For a single night’s accommodation…it does the job for a competitive rate. In contrast, the nicer Harbor 360 Hotel…on the water…in town…would have been about $390 after taxes for the night.

 

https://us01.iqwebbook.com/H360HAK651/

 

For longer stays…Harbor 360 is in cooperation with Major Marines. There are specials and discounts to be had seasonally if you combine your hotel stay with a Kenai Fjords day cruise.

 

Exit Lodge is definitely a bargain for a single night.

 

Touring plans would affect future cost benefit analysis to determine if I would stay here again. If I would be gone for most of the day…didn’t plan on hanging out at my hotel much…then I might stay here again for two nights.

 

More than likely…I would save up and try to stay some place nicer…but for a budget night…Exit Glacier Lodge did the job.

 

We were safe. We were in a convenient location. We had gloriously HOT water in the shower…we were able to lounge in bed, relax and watch some mind numbing tv shows before calling it a night…so…it was a good night.

 

For the first time since Vancouver…we had a squishy bed. The stateroom beds were hard…the bunk beds extremely hard...in other circumstances we might have found the mattresses in Cabin 4 to be awful in terms of support and comfort…way TOO squishy…but coming off the week plus of hard beds…we all kind of welcomed the squish.

 

But DH and I were also happy that we wouldn’t sleep on it again…there was a bit of center sag action happening…slight, but would likely become more noticeable with each successive night’s sleep.

 

We brought only a change of clothing into the cabin at this time. We were hungry but wanted to change clothes before dinner.

 

The onsite restaurant is Salmon Bake. The sign says “Cheap beer and lousy food.”

 

We were not tempted…we wanted to go back to town and try the Seward Brewing Company, as recommended to us by Libby et al.

[Anita Latte]

Seward Brewing Company is located kind of sort of across the street from the Sea Life Center.

Downtown reaches a bit of a dead end at the Sea Life Center. We were advised that the brewery was “right across the street”…which means that you find the Sea Life Center…then go up the STREET with businesses across from the Sea Life center…and at the end of the first block…you’ll find the brewery.

http://www.sewardbrewery.com

Street parking was pretty easy to come by…

The brewery is popular.

We had a bit of a wait…not especially long though.

The ambiance here is typical of a brew pub. A bit loud with all the hard surfaces and room full of people. Fun local décor.

We were HUNGRY. We hadn’t eaten much for brunch…after an afternoon on the water…we were ready for some FILLING food.

The menu seems to change seasonally. The brewery does specialize in locally produced food.

There was no thought of pausing at food service for pictures…

Our appetizer was HANGOVER HOMIES: Thick cut tweaked fries, bacon, tomato, chives, cheese sauce, crema, gorgonzola… OMG…yum.

The menu was all over the place…Korean flavor here…Mexican flavor there…beer batter fried fish… In the end…thinking to change up the thought of eating local seafood…we each ordered LOADED DOG: AK Reindeer hot dog, pretzel bun, slaw, cheese sauce, bacon, mustard, house chips.

Sometimes, you just get in the mood for a hot dog…

Like most brew pubs…you can sample of any beer before ordering. We tried a chile wheat beer…didn’t like it. I think we ended up with the Rockfish Red Ale. Whatever we had…we liked it a lot.

We liked it so much…we knew we would want more at the hotel room. The brewery offers two different types of to go beer. The common 64-ounce glass growlers and the new-to-me 32-ounce cancer CROWLER.

Biggest can of beer ever!!

We purchased one to share in the cabin.

After dinner…we headed back to the cabin for showers, lounging with the b00b toob, and falling asleep with a just in case we sleep later than 11:00 AM alarm set…

We were more concerned with being on time to check out than being on time for our helicopter excursion, which wasn't until 2:00 PM.

[Italy52]

I just didn't know! Logically, it makes sense that you see all the shapes but until seeing it, it didn't register how fascinating and interesting icebergs are! Where else have you seen icebergs?

 

We see icebergs on the way to Hubbard Glacier, Glacier Bay, College Fjords and one of my favorite places -- Tracy Arm. Tracy Arm by small boat excursion offers some of the most beautiful "berg" formations. We have gone with Adventure Bound and Allen Marine for our Tracy Arm excursions. In my photo link below my signature I have pictures of bergs -- I am still working on my 2018 pictures -- so many to sort through and so little time to do it in.

[Anita Latte]

We see icebergs on the way to Hubbard Glacier, Glacier Bay, College Fjords and one of my favorite places -- Tracy Arm. Tracy Arm by small boat excursion offers some of the most beautiful "berg" formations. We have gone with Adventure Bound and Allen Marine for our Tracy Arm excursions. In my photo link below my signature I have pictures of bergs -- I am still working on my 2018 pictures -- so many to sort through and so little time to do it in.

 

Ahh...Tracy Arm. When I have an itinerary that goes to Tracy Arm I will pick a ship that offers one of those small boat excursions. I've read such good things about those. I debated that Adventure Bound day cruise out of Juneau quite a bit when our Juneau plans were up in the air. Both of those are on my Alaska bucket list.

 

Yes on the so many pictures to sort through...I have a deal with my pictures goal before we move again next August. Going to get my photos out of the digital world and finally deal with my shoes boxes of photos. Going to create a schedule for myself and just get it done.

[Anita Latte]

Today we are going on a Helicopter Tour!

 

We had canceled our booking for hiking on Exit Glacier in favor of a less strenuous excursion to a glacier in a helicopter!!

 

Flight seeing wasn’t a thought for us originally. The idea of flying in any small aircraft was not appealing. It was scary and nerve wrecking and we didn't want to.

 

Through all my research and reading, I found a helicopter tour review written by a small airplane tour pilot. He hadn’t understood why helicopter tours were rising in popularity compared to small plane tours…until he took a helicopter tour with a helicopter pilot friend.

 

My take away from the review was first, how smooth a helicopter flight is…and second, how a helicopter’s ability to hover over interesting sights is superior to the fly-bys of planes. After hanging out above the mouth of Hawaii’s volcano, the airplane pilot understood the appeal of the helicopter for flight seeing.

 

Flight seeing is often suggested as a must do in Alaska because you just can’t appreciate the expanse that IS Alaska from the ground.

 

I didn’t research flight seeing for any cruise touring options because Mom had no interest and also because they are budget killers…at least the ones available through Celebrity were. Perhaps there are less expensive tours offered independently.

 

When this last touring day freed up with the canceled hike...motivated by the desire to get up close and personal with a glacier...I found a highly rated, highly recommended helicopter tour. The "highlight of our Alaska vacation" the reviews said. It's a very short flight tour...but it was affordable in its brevity.

 

My convincing arguments convinced DH that we would probably survive the flight...Safety Man approved.

 

Our flight was scheduled for 2:00 PM.

 

First order of business this day was to check out.

 

Next…LATTES. Caffeine please!!

 

There are many local coffee options. Thank you smart phones. Thank you to everyone who takes the time to write reviews…We ended up at Nature’s Nectars.

 

https://www.facebook.com/aknaturesnectars/

 

Nature’s Nectars is a walk-up window. There is no inside. This is a grab and go coffee fix…OR…

 

There are two wooden booths along the sidewalk…and maybe some other limited seating I don’t recall. A booth was available…that’s where we started our day. People watching with coffee flavored drinks. DS is looking like he needs some caffeine bad this morning…we are definitely nearing the end of vacation. DH is at the window:

 

 

Located on 4thStreet…the main drag along the water front…we were directly across from the harbor.

 

 

We could see a row of storefronts for various tours and excursions. If you’re wondering what to do in Seward…call up a map of the harbor area…research the excursion storefronts there.

 

We were next to the Breeze Inn…their gift shop was RIGHT THERE.

 

Inside was a mix of Made in China and locally designed and crafted merchandise. I love hats…I found a fleece hat with a graphic trim of Tlingit and Haida-style salmon.

 

https://www.copperriverfleece.com/aurora-hat-softshell-razzleberry-black-salmon-purple-trim/

 

I paid an $11.00 premium to buy the hat in person, but I didn’t pay shipping or sales tax. All the Copper River Fleece items are excellent quality. I wanted a vest but decided that I wanted to buy a different size than I currently wear…so I would hold off on the vest purchase for another trip…or mail order.

 

This morning’s weather is sunny and bright and warm. Beautiful day for flight seeing…but there was significant fog on the bay:

 

 

Memorized in grade school…the words came to mind:

 

The fog comes

on little cat feet.

 

It sits looking

over harbor and city

on silent haunches

and then moves on.

 

We decided that we didn’t need breakfast type food for breakfast…Ray’s Waterfront was RIGHT THERE…and it obviously had a view…so…

 

http://www.rayswaterfrontak.com

 

Right at noontime, we had no wait. We were seated in the harbor facing room. A room with a view:

 

 

 

This isn’t fast food…but the meal didn’t drag either. We each ordered the special…IIRC blackened fish tacos…EXCELLENT.

 

We had time for some more touristy shopping. We had noticed some fun shops across from the brewery last night so we headed further down downtown.

 

I found ANOTHER hat…a baseball cap style fleece. I was told that the mountain range silhouette trim is inspired by the mountain range the sewer sees everyday from her home:

 

http://www.mountainheather.com/home.html

 

I sew…this is a quality hat. As it should be, for the price. I did not pay a premium to purchase this hat in the store. Hmmm.

 

DS found two Alaska themed beanies…not locally made but whatcha gonna do? Still supporting a local shop keeper downtown.

 

It was time to head over to the air field for our helicopter tour.