Odyssey - Santorini Caution

[cello44]

I'm writing this from the Odyssey, now en route to Rhodes from Santorini. I've decided to simply tell my story and see what the far more experienced travelers here have to say.

 

This morning, my wife and I took the tender to Fira's port. Once on land we walked to the cable car and found that the line of people waiting to ride up the hill to Fira was quite long. Some locals were touting a speedboat to Oia that would be leaving "in ten minutes"; we, and at least a few others at the end of the cable car queue, took the bait. For 15 Euros apiece (iirc), we bought tickets for the speedboat ride to Oia, a bus ride up the long steep hill from Oia's port into the town, and a bus ride back from Oia to Fira. We found out later that Seabourn recommends this service.

 

We boarded the speedboat and sat with other increasingly angry passengers as ten minutes - one couple who boarded shortly after us was told the boat would leave in "4 minutes" - became 45 minutes. When the discussion of demands for refunds became loud enough, a boat full of unhappy people left for Oia.

 

The boat ride to Oia is relatively short and pretty. Unfortunately, docking space in Oia (Ammoudi) is very limited, so we sat in the sun and waited another 10-15 minutes before being released.

 

With no direction from the crew, we wandered uphill from the port and eventually found a group of people with tickets that looked like ours. A man working with another travel group kindly told us that our bus would arrive soon. We all waited in the sun for 5 minutes or so, then the bus appeared and transported us to a lot located an easy walk from the center of town.

 

Time elapsed since the tender: well over an hour.

 

Oia itself was hot and mobbed. My wife bought a pair of shoes and then, after perhaps half an hour, we decided we'd had enough of beautiful Oia.

We'd noticed long lines for the buses back to Fira, so we looked for a cab as we walked back to the bus lot. There were no cabs to be found anywhere. We finally reached the bus lot and joined a group of people trying to elbow and push onto a bus. We didn't quite make it, but were told another bus would arrive 20 minutes, and so it did.

The bus operator made no effort to establish a line for the bus; soon we were part of disorganized mass of people jockeying for position. When the bus arrived, the mass crushed up against its door. The driver began yelling at the crowd to stop, to watch out for children, to stop pushing, etc. An all-out elbowing and shoving match broke out anyway; my wife and I were fortunate to make it to the bus with minimal damage. The situation IMO was borderline dangerous.

The trip back to Fira was uneventful. Having had our fill of Santorini, we made our way to the cable car, only to find a huge line of people waiting to return to the port. We decided to walk down the hill rather than wait for the cable car. The path down to the port is not well marked, but kind store clerks gave us directions and we advanced slowly. Once past the last of the stores the descent truly began. The steps were uneven and slippery ... and then we encountered the donkeys.

One can ride a donkey up, and I believe down to the port. There were many, many donkeys. The aroma of donkey was overpowering. There was much evidence of donkey traffic all over the path to the port. The donkeys were not inclined to change their path for anyone; we encountered a number of tourist donkey riders hanging on for dear life and repeating, apologetically, "I have no control." On a more serious note, we saw a woman slip on some of the aforementioned evidence of donkey traffic and take a hard fall. She was alive the last time we saw her.

After much pressing against walls to avoid donkeys and many deft steps to avoid donkey droppings, we finally reached the port, only to find yet another mob. The Seabourn tent was nowhere to be seen, so we headed in what we thought was the right direction. A very long line had formed for another ship's tender. We had to pass repeatedly through the line until at

last we saw the Seabourn shield, and were whisked away to comfort.

Why am I writing this? First, as a warning: if you cannot avoid visiting massively overrated Santorini, then visit only in the shoulder or off seasons.

Second, when I returned to the ship and spoke to several Seabourn employees, it became clear to me that Seabourn is well aware that Santorini is overwhelmed when invaded by the passengers of even a relatively few cruise ships. They're aware of the resulting serious transportation difficulties. They apparently recommend the crooks who run the speedboat to Oia. They're aware of the long wait for the cable car and the perils of the walk back to the port.

And yet they do little to warn passengers. We met many other passengers who had unpleasant or frustrating experiences in Santorini.

The port information sheet did not mention crowding or transportation difficulties or any such issues

.

Here's what the Herald said that's relevant:

"Santorini is no secret and draws crowds for most of the year,

yet it wears its tourism well

and its offerings make it worth the bustle."

One employee told us that crowding was mentioned during the port meeting; I did not attend, so I can’t speak to that. But IMO given the seriousness of the problems on Santorini, they need to provide a prominent warning to passengers in the Herald and port information sheet.

My discussions with Seabourn employees left me with the conclusion Seabourn doesn't care.

Thank you in advance for your replies.

 

 

 

 

 

[Tillylovesseabourn]

Santorini is well known for being crowded, heading out very early is the only way to see it for a short while before it gets busy.Usually SB runs its own tours to the other areas around the main port of call, I always find their excursions to be very well run. I find it difficult to believe they would recommend charlatans who would rip off their passengers.

[Pavovsky]

Completely agree it is too crowded. The queue down from the cable car was ok when we used it. Also used that service - had a far better experience than you did although my wife was not feeling great on the boat trip.

 

But reading this - may just stay on board the ship on our cruise this August.

 

 

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[Azulann]

First time we were in Santorini, our ship was the first in the caldera. We took cable car to Fira, had a wonderful morning and lunch.

The cable car line was blocks long by early afternoon. We too walked down the donkey path. Saw at least two people fall on the switch backs. It was in Sept and the temp was 95F. Finally made it back to the ship.

The next time we had Santorini as a port of call, we stayed on board and had a relaxing spa day.

Not my favorite GK island.

[marazul]

If you have the time, the best way to visit Santorini is to fly in, stay there for 2-3 days and rent a car.

[Isklaar]

Santorini for me would be a stay on the ship port. The volume of cruise traffic makes it overcrowded and unpleasant, as a lot of people are aware. On the other hand a land based holiday there can be quite enjoyable, as long as you're located far from Fira and Oia. I'd recommend the south east of the island.

[ravenclaw]

On a Qwest cruise a few years back, based on our travel experiences, we decided to stay on board during the Santorini port call. The best Greek islands are the ones Greeks vacation on and cruise ships infrequently or never visit.

 

 

" Nobody Goes There Anymore, It's Too Crowded ". Attributed to Yogi Berra and anonymous others.

[wesport]

Thanks for the heads up. We will be there on the Odyssey on July 25th. Having been to Fira several times, I guess get off at the crack of dawn , do a ships tour, or stay on board.

[Miss Merry]

Ditto Wesport, we are on a back to back leaving for Athens tomorrow. Just had an email from Delta saying there will be probable delays or cancellations because of the JFK weather.

Did Santorini on Silversea last year, no other boats, it was wonderful but after the OP's experience we'll maybe have a "sea day".

MM

[ab21au]

It is always worthwhile in these ports to check what other ships are in port and what time they arrive. We had 2 others in Santorini, a Windstar (few people) and Ruby princess with mega people.

 

Because we arrived an hour before the Ruby we were ok getting the cable car. We were also leaving before the others so had no problem getting down the cable car back.

 

Ps. It was very hot the day we were there and very crowded, particularly the bus was ridiculously crowded.

[English Voyager]

Santorini should rethink it's daily cap of 8,000 visitors which, by all accounts, is too high for the summer period.

[wesport]

Just checked the calendar for the day (7/25) I am there on the Odyssey. 7132 people by 8 am in the am. Hmmm. Sounds like a day at sea for us.

[Pavovsky]

Just checked the calendar for the day (7/25) I am there on the Odyssey. 7132 people by 8 am in the am. Hmmm. Sounds like a day at sea for us.

 

 

 

If you think that is bad - check out 22 August - looks like 14000 in port that day.

 

 

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[turtlemichael]

I remember going to Santorini on a ferry from Athens in 1977. We were backpacking, as was nearly everyone else and we were met at the port by a large number of women dressed in black trying to get us to stay in their spare rooms. This was the style of the place and it was one of the best vacations we ever had.

 

Those days are long gone. The line can be incredible just to get on to the cable car (2 hours waiting is nothing in peak season) and when you get to the top it is tourist trap of overpriced shops and crowds.

 

The charm has long gone in this prime example of tourism gone mad. I'm glad I experienced it in its heyday and now just stay on the ship and reminisce over what once was. Fortunately, no one can destroy the best thing about it now - the incredible views from the deck of your ship.

 

It seems to me that it is well past time that the luxury lines considered this as an appropriate destination.

[vistaman]

i recently was twice on Santorini - in early May on board the ms Europa - it was not so crowded and of course not too hot

 

and in June on board the ms Europa 2 + some other ships - very crowded !!

 

despite it is a beautiful place i find it the biggest tourist trap in Greece - starting that cruise ships are not allowed to use own tenders .

however for a lot of people it is a must when sailing around Greek isles !

i do not like the place - as i do not like venice in tourist season :o

[Les Picantins]

Thanks for the heads up regarding the unscrupulous tour operators. We have had luck in going up the cable car but ended up walking down the donkey trail due to the long line to get back down.

 

Your experience sounds like a nightmare. I hope you had a nice shower and then a giant cocktail once back on board.

 

We return to Santorini next summer. Thanks to your post we will either take an excursion or stay on board.

 

Did you at least enjoy the sail-in to the port? All the little white buildings make it look like snow capped mountains.

 

Enjoy the remainder of your cruise.

[Haworth]

We enjoyed a trip to Akrotiri, you tender to a different area and avoid the initial queue for the cable car, our trip then took in a couple of other stops before leaving us for free time in Fira, at some point to have to go down the hill to the port, either by walking, donkey or cable car and then join the crowds for the tender back to the ship, the tenders are local and not the ship ones.

[arzz]

Your experience, unfortunately, rings true. We have been to Santorini twice. The first time was about 25 years ago - I used the cable car, DH and son used the donkeys and we had a nice day.

 

Our second visit was about ten years ago (we were on Oceania at the time). We used the cable car going up - but we did have a wait for it. Once at the top we wandered the residential areas which were quiet and beautiful. At lunch time we waited for the Costa ship to leave, heaved a sigh of relief and had a nice lunch and walk through town.

 

We decided to walk down rather than wait for the cable car - we found the hike smelly, the donkey handlers rude and willing to spout almost any lie to try to get us to ride down - but we survived the hike. I recall, however, that I had to clean my shoes and air them for a few days before I dared wear them again.

 

We found Santorini enchanting - once the thousands from the Costa ship left. I cannot imagine what it would be like with 14,000 in port.

[cello44]

Thanks for the heads up regarding the unscrupulous tour operators. We have had luck in going up the cable car but ended up walking down the donkey trail due to the long line to get back down.

 

Your experience sounds like a nightmare. I hope you had a nice shower and then a giant cocktail once back on board.

 

We return to Santorini next summer. Thanks to your post we will either take an excursion or stay on board.

 

Did you at least enjoy the sail-in to the port? All the little white buildings make it look like snow capped mountains.

 

Enjoy the remainder of your cruise.

 

 

We have loved the cruise. Great crew, great food, great suite.

 

It’s funny you mention the “snow capped mountains.” My wife and I had exactly the same thought.

[Pavovsky]

Your experience, unfortunately, rings true. We have been to Santorini twice. The first time was about 25 years ago - I used the cable car, DH and son used the donkeys and we had a nice day.

 

Our second visit was about ten years ago (we were on Oceania at the time). We used the cable car going up - but we did have a wait for it. Once at the top we wandered the residential areas which were quiet and beautiful. At lunch time we waited for the Costa ship to leave, heaved a sigh of relief and had a nice lunch and walk through town.

 

We decided to walk down rather than wait for the cable car - we found the hike smelly, the donkey handlers rude and willing to spout almost any lie to try to get us to ride down - but we survived the hike. I recall, however, that I had to clean my shoes and air them for a few days before I dared wear them again.

 

We found Santorini enchanting - once the thousands from the Costa ship left. I cannot imagine what it would be like with 14,000 in port.

 

 

That many passengers ends up as a lose lose. Or at best a short term gain with long term damage.

 

Land based tourists have to deal with the crowds although presumably some respite at night. Spoils things a little/lot.

 

Cruise passengers experience a crowded place which will not entice them to come back.

 

Expect the daily cap will need to be looked at again.

 

 

 

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[Kevnzworld]

This, is why I don’t go to Europe in the summer. Yes, I’ve waited in that cable car line. Yes, I’ve marched down the smelly donkey path in the heat. Best chance is to catch the first tender, and leave early. Otherwise it’s every tourist for his or herself!

[cariad1000]

Could I please ask anyone visiting Santorini to spare a thought for the poor donkeys who are treated notoriously badly. Just google it if in doubt. Please do not ride them!!!

[Bobtails12]

Could I please ask anyone visiting Santorini to spare a thought for the poor donkeys who are treated notoriously badly. Just google it if in doubt. Please do not ride them!!!

 

 

to be honest riding and using any animal for transportation is cruelty. with the exception possibly of well managed and kept horses in a good stable( personally not my thing but from horse friends who love horses i can see how they are well cared for).

 

the number of people who boast about riding elephants in asia on holidays disgusts me - and they don't seem to understand the elephants are disciplined and managed with a hook.... and when you look at the damage on the animals in real sanctuaries - you see how they are damaged by tourism ( note if you are visiting an animal sanctuary - really research they are a sanctuary as some are really animal shows with the animals being treated badly) no real sanctuary will offer rides on the animals.

 

how a 20stone tourist thinks it's acceptable to ride a small donkey up steps in 30plus degree heat really makes me angry.

 

there's a lot of talk about dress code on these boards - perhaps cruelty and ignorance should be banned in the dress code all the time.

[lincslady]

A possible tip when wanting to to go ashore on Santorini if there are other ships in- ask at the desk when they depart. We went ashore in the morning, at the same time as a huge crowd from a Costa ship, who did not believe in waiting in line for the lift - we waited in the heat for a long time, to discover later that the ship sailed at 1, and we could have gone ashore in the afternoon in comparative peace and quiet.

[wripro]

A possible tip when wanting to to go ashore on Santorini if there are other ships in- ask at the desk when they depart. We went ashore in the morning, at the same time as a huge crowd from a Costa ship, who did not believe in waiting in line for the lift - we waited in the heat for a long time, to discover later that the ship sailed at 1, and we could have gone ashore in the afternoon in comparative peace and quiet.

This is good advice as most of the large ships depart no later than 2PM. Of course, that cuts your time in Santorini but I'd rather spend my morning at the pool on the ship than on long lines and you'll probably get to see the same amount of sights anyway.