A Warm Caribbean Wind: Bridgetown to San Juan, 21 November to 1 December 2019

[Unibok]

How time flies! The Muse in Alaska seems like only yesterday 😉

 

Anticipating a stressful fall, I booked this while on the Muse for Thanksgiving break. It was too good to pass up: a Venetian sailing, inclusive of airfare and excursions, minus on-board booking, minus early booking. Heck, it practically paid for itself. Now that DD lives elsewhere, it seemed a good time to try a new Thanksgiving tradition. I left home with a foot of snow on the ground, and arrived in steamy Barbados by early afternoon, greeted with rum punch on the tarmac. Thank you, 6-months-ago-me, for thinking this was a good idea.

 

 

Arriving a day early, I checked into the Bridgetown Hilton, which sits on a tip of coastline that gives you the option of direct waves from the beach, or a gentler surf along the other side. If you don't fancy the beach, choose from 2 adult pools, a kiddie pool, or the not-so-hot hot tub (which, while beautiful, was rather tepid). Ensconced in my ocean-facing balcony, I started to unwind and give thanks in this new way. An avocado salad, some maduros (fried, sweet plantains), and a "secret recipe" rum punch later, I was filled to the brim with gratitude. This is what Thanksgiving was meant to be!

 

About that secret recipe: the server and I teased that the name sort of gives it away: rum + punch. In two day's time I would learn otherwise, but it made a good joke in the short run.

 

You can see in the picture that it wasn't exactly sunny. Indeed, this voyage was just past the hurricane season, but still very much in the rainy season. Each day, we were treated to a bit of rain (sometimes far more than a bit!), a bit of sun (sometimes far more than a bit!), and because of that alchemic combination, daily rainbows wherever we went. Quite magical.

 

Fun facts:

Captain: Tuomo Leskinen (not Italian! from Finland!)

Hotel Director: Alicia (the 1st female in this position at SS, having worked her way up through the ranks)

Cruise Director: Colin

International Hostesses: Ana and Katerina

Venetian / Future Cruise Consultant: Emma-Lee

Shore Concierge: Clive and Marina

Maitre d': Djeordje (may not the right spelling?)

 

I didn't write down the specific numbers, but the ship was not completely full. There were ~50 US citizens on board, mostly likely because Thanksgiving is a traditional time to be with family. That gap was more than filled by UK travelers, who were the vast majority of the guests onboard. First-timers outnumbered Venetian Society 2-to-1, despite the Venetian discount. One woman received her 100 days milestone, while the top 3 had ~300 days or fewer (#3 was only in the 100s). It was a gorgeous 10-day itinerary, so I have to wonder if we were experiencing some residual effect of the Cuba shuffle.

 

[Stumblefoot]

1 hour ago, Unibok said:

Heck, it practically paid for itself. 

 

I have certainly always enjoyed your writing style Ms. Unibok.  But now, I see, I enjoy your comedic qualities as well!

 

Glad you and DD had a very nice voyage.  Even with such a small contingent of Americans on board, did SS provide a proper Thanksgiving meal?

 

Enjoy what remains of your semester and preparing for the holiday season.  Sure wish we could get you on our Moon transatlantic sailing next fall!

[zqtchas]

"Heck, it practically paid for itself." ditto!

Hey Unie, same here. We're on 1-16-20 with a b2b.

Get on the Moon for a good time. 

We were on the crossing on the W & that was yukkie too ( hurricanes you know!).

Supply stops were limited & running low on some things.

 

Edited December 5, 2019 by zqtchas

[Unibok]

Stumble: Thank you for your kind thoughts and words. Yes, Silversea did make quite a nice effort for a proper Thanksgiving -- longer story to follow when we get there.

 

zqtchas: So sorry to hear your crossing was rough. I've so enjoyed sailing with you and Elaine in the past, but even good company can't make up for wild seas. Please give her my best.

 

Both of you: I'm actually working on a few ways to get myself on that Moon crossing with you. Fingers crossed!

[Stumblefoot]

24 minutes ago, Unibok said:

I'm actually working on a few ways to get myself on that Moon crossing with you. Fingers crossed!

Woohoo... Party on!

[Unibok]

Embarkation day: Bridgetown, Barbados

 

After a simple breakfast of coffee and local bananas on my balcony, I was in no rush to leave the hotel even though I knew better things awaited on the Silver Wind. The sun shone brightly above, waves lapped the shore below, and all was right in the world. The 10-minute cab ride to the pier could wait.

 

Perhaps I waited too long. During that 10-minute drive, dark clouds accumulated and the first few drops pinged our windshield. The rain was soft and steady as I paid the driver and walked towards the cavernous human processing center at the pier. There were at least 4 large ships at dock (Celebrity Stupendous, P&O Preposterous, Aida Giant Eyeball, and MSC Something-or-Other) in addition to our tiny Wind -- which meant a lot of humans to be processed all at once. Gratefully, I walked toward the Silversea sign, where I found a line that circled in on itself and nobody else with luggage. I probably cut the line; who can tell when it is a continuous loop? I picked up my room key and somebody took my luggage. (Who? Where were they taking it? My confidence in the system was shaken, given the apparent disarray of the operation.) Apparently I then rejoined the same line I had already been in, and somebody gently guided me out of the circuit and toward the security entrance. 

 

It was an omen of things to come, and a fitting welcome to the Caribbean way of life. I would need to relax and trust -- which is, really, is precisely why I needed this trip.

 

The Celebrity Stupendous passengers were shuttled to their ship in a little circus train, while Wind guests were directed to wait for green busses. One was just leaving as I approached it, and the SS guy noted that it was odd that it left early and with not many passengers. Hmmm, unfortunate timing.

 

And then the clouds released their offerings, full throated and with abandon.

 

Circus trains came and went, soggy passengers in tow, but no sign of a green bus. The rains, already heavy, doubled down. The Silver Wind line behind me grew ever longer and ever more impatient.

 

Through the curtain of the downpour, something green shimmered. Our bus! Wind passengers thrummed to get inside until it was well past capacity. Someone assured those who weren't able to squeeze in that the next shuttle was right behind. (Remember the one that left early and with few pax? Yeah, that one.) Our driver, quite the character in a green sequined vest and matching hat, opted to turn the bus around so that we would have more direct access to the gangway in the driving rain. Let's just say that that his 5-point turn at the end of the pier in a long bus filled to the gills was not for the faint of heart.

 

Every Silversea embarkation I've experienced has been smooth and stress free, in part because Silversea paces out when guests arrive so that there is rarely a huge crush in reception. Because I was sitting near the front of the bus, my check-in experience was as lovely as usual, with warm greetings and cool champagne. I suspect the soggy hordes from the rest of the bus might not be able to say that same.

 

My simple banana-and-coffee breakfast was no longer sufficient, and all I wanted was a plate of housemade pasta in the quiet and peaceful Restaurant. Perhaps the duo, I pondered. I dreamed of it in line waiting for the green bus, I imagined it as we drove past the mega-ships, I nearly tasted it in all 5 points of that crazy U-turn, I could smell it as I handed over my credit card at reception. This was a much anticipated plate of pasta in a calm setting. When I arrived at the Restaurant, salivating openly, they had just closed their doors. I was too late.

 

Quiet and peaceful was not to be. Given the choice of The Grill or La Terrazza, I chose the latter. The service and food were excellent, but on the way out I made a reservation for dinner. I had to have that mellow pasta experience I craved before the day ended.

 

2:00, no luggage. 3:00, no luggage. 4:00, no luggage. 4:30, no luggage. Folks were getting nervous. 5:00 -- all the luggage arrives in a huge rush. Relief all around. 

 

With so many first-timers on board, the muster was awkward with anxious buzzing throughout the Panorama Lounge. "Surely they aren't putting everyone in here?" "How will we all fit?" "And now we have to put on our lifejackets?" "There's no room!" Of course, it was fine, but I'd had the benefit of experiencing previous Wind musters. It's disorienting at first, and then it all makes sense. And then it's over.

 

Bottom line on embarkation day: the Barbados aspects were a good-natured mess, but the Silversea aspects were crisp and professional as usual. For a truly stellar experience, both need to run smoothly. If I embark in Bridgetown again, I will have a better sense of what to expect. However, if I have the choice between San Juan and Bridgetown, I'll likely choose San Juan.

 

We wouldn't set sail until the following evening, giving us an overnight and another full day in Barbados. The day ended with perfection: the La Terrazza antipasto board and that much-anticipated pasta at a cozy table outside, and limoncello for the finish. My wonderful butler had already stocked my room with the amaro I had requested, so I settled in for the night. Tomorrow would be a fresh start.

 

Edited December 6, 2019 by Unibok

[Unibok]

Adding a visual, for those who can't picture the giant eyeball. It leered at us several times throughout the journey.

 

[Unibok]

Day 2: Bridgetown, Barbados

 

A beautiful day in Barbados, with an afternoon Photo Adventure excursion. Taking us to various photo-ready spots, our guide showed us how much of the island used to be sugar plantations, and did not shy away from talking about the history of slavery on the island. Indeed, the first photo stop was a village with intact "chattel houses" -- easily disassembled homes on a slab from when slaves (and later share-croppers) needed to move quickly to a new location. Many of us left donations for the owner of the house to defray the cost of keeping it so nicely painted for tourists. This shot shows a) how it grew with additions over time, and b) how it sits within the village.

 

 

We then ventured to the "Scottish District," so called because it is the closest thing you can find to the Headlands in the Caribbean. The geology is completely different from the rest of the island, with a ruggedness and lack of stability unique to the area. We were treated to a medley of greens as the sun poked through the clouds.

 

 

One of our final stops was at a very photogenic beach, where we also enjoyed rum punch and local bananas. I enjoyed watching this surfer.

 

 

 

Now about that rum punch: it turned out to be far more interesting than just rum + punch. Even at the hotel, I could discern there was nutmeg and some other spices in it. Our guide gave us the recipe: 1 sour, 2 sweet, 3 strong, 4 weak. Sour = lime, sweet = simple syrup, 3 = Barbados rum (spiced or plain), 4 = juice (often grapefruit). Finish with a shot of bitters and grated nutmeg. There you have it. I plan to make it at home for the right occasion.

 

Barbados rum punch was so good that it spoiled me for the rest of the voyage. The farther north we sailed, the less complex the concoctions, until at the end it was literally just rum and punch. I'm surprised to say I've become quite the rum punch snob. Lesson of the day: don't miss the rum punch in Barbados, but opt for something else on the other islands. 

 

Sailaway was at 6:00, followed by the Captain's Welcome and Formal Night. I was feeling fancy, so I dressed up and dined at the Solo table with one of the international hostesses. There were so many solos on this sailing that they actually split us into 2 groups. The conversation at ours was rather bit off-putting (slinging insults about the Royal Family and Brexit), so I steered clear of the solos for the rest of the journey. That's the beauty of having a choice, and there certainly are plenty of other ways to make friends on the Wind.

 

I was very glad to see that the front page of the menu includes a thematic/local special menu for the day, in addition to other specials of the day. I had enjoyed that feature on the Shadow, and am glad it seems to have been implemented fleet-wide on ships with an MDR. The meal was fantastic -- overseen by a female executive chef from Mexico whose name I should have written down.

 

Voices of Silversea performed "Showtime," a musical revue that featured songs I'd not yet heard on the Voices stage. One of my main complaints with the Voices is that the operatic singers stick out too much and don't blend with the musical/pop singers. This was the first voyage that was not true: by the end of the show, I could not have told you which two were the classically trained singers. This team blended beautifully, shared the stage with one another, and also had the most elaborate choreography of any Voices I've seen so far. I later learned that they had been working together for 5 months, and this was the final sailing for one of the singers. It was a far cut above the other Voices I've seen, with just one slight disappointment that one of the singers didn't project enough to be captured by her microphone. If the Voices had been that cohesive on my other voyages, I would have gone to more of their performances. Do more of this, Silversea!

 

Even at this early stage of the voyage, it seemed that we had a dream team from the Captain all the way down. There was clear camaraderie among them, and they ran a very tight ship. 

 

Edited December 6, 2019 by Unibok

[Stumblefoot]

Love the descriptions of the big ships!  And, of course, now I feel I must aspire to become a rum punch snob, like you. 😀

[Master Echo]

Dear Unibok

 

Catching  up on SS threads, I have only just found your posts, whilst sitting at the airport for the last leg of my journey home from Silver Whisper.  I must admit to laughing out loud at your mammoth ships' description!!  I do so enjoy your expressive writing.

 

Although  Captain Arma has ' jumped  ship' and is now the Master of the Shadow, I note Colin Brown is still wedded to the Wind, I wonder where he will go when the ship is  expeditionised.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

[Unibok]

8 hours ago, Master Echo said:

I note Colin Brown is still wedded to the Wind, I wonder where he will go when the ship is  expeditionised.

 

Dear Master Echo, thank you for your kind words; I always enjoy your trip reports as well.

 

You ask an excellent question about Colin. He takes such pleasure in his virtuoso piano performances, and I'll say more on that topic later in this thread. The Whisper and Shadow still allow CDs to perform, so I've wondered if he will move to one of them, or stay on as an expedition CD, or (please, no!) retire. He is so beloved.

 

He was in his civvies on disembarkation day, leaving for a 1-week stretch during which Hostess Ana would fulfill his CD duties. Indeed, she called out our luggage colors, signaling a temporary passing of the torch.

 

Does anyone out there know his plans?

[Unibok]

Day 3: St. George's, Grenada

 

Rocked by the gentle waves on our first night at sea, I slept like a baby until waking in Grenada. 

 

The morning's excursion focused on nutmeg. Just as sugar cane grew easily and rapidly in Barbados, nutmeg found beneficial growing conditions in Grenada. We began at a spice plantation, learning about the various flavors that grow well here. Some were indigenous, but most were brought from South Asia by the colonizers. These spices have since become a cornerstone of the island's economy and a part of its flavor -- literally and metaphorically. From the plantation, we headed into town for a factory tour, and then back into the country for a visit to the island's largest waterfall. Guests on our tour were reading aloud messages from their partners on other excursions about the heavy rains, but somehow the moisture missed us. You just never know in the Caribbean, do you?

 

 

At the waterfall, we received some pretty good rum punch (almost as good as in Barbados) and the opportunity to jump in the pool pictured above. Only three of us did, including myself. It was deep, and cold, and so refreshing. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

After that, I enjoyed a fairly quiet evening, dining alone at the Grill and reading until bedtime.

Edited December 7, 2019 by Unibok

[jpalbny]

Awesome, Unibok! I think we embarked in Istanbul with those same four behemoths...

 

We haven't been on a Caribbean cruise in almost 20 years. Your writing is making me think we have to go back some day. But there are too many other exciting places to see!

[Unibok]

JP: I feel the same way! In fact, I hadn't planned on a Caribbean cruise this year, but it is such an easy jaunt down from the east coast, and the deal was too good to pass up. I won't go to the Caribbean instead of somewhere else, but I sure will go there in addition to somewhere else 🙂

[brimary]

On 12/7/2019 at 8:57 AM, Master Echo said:

Dear Unibok

 

Catching  up on SS threads, I have only just found your posts, whilst sitting at the airport for the last leg of my journey home from Silver Whisper.  I must admit to laughing out loud at your mammoth ships' description!!  I do so enjoy your expressive writing.

 

Although  Captain Arma has ' jumped  ship' and is now the Master of the Shadow, I note Colin Brown is still wedded to the Wind, I wonder where he will go when the ship is  expeditionised.

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

From recent cruise with Colin on the Wind got the impression retirement was being considered.The departure of he Wind to the Iceberg fleet is the final nail in the coffin for us after 22 great SSyears.Best wishes to Colin a fabulous CD.

[Unibok]

Day 4: Bequia, St. Vincent and Grenadines

 

Two important transitions happened today: it heralded a string of smaller, lesser visited islands; and it also marked the end of my camera-toting excursions. I was on and in the water from this point forward, so daily reports will be sans illustrations.

 

Bequia, "Island of the Clouds," was a lovely tender port for us, and provided a welcome relief from other ships. I opted for the "Sailing Bequia" excursion, which took us out on a catamaran for swimming and snorkeling. I was grateful for my prior experience, as they gave us no instructions beyond "don't step on the sea urchins or I'll have to urinate on you" (an unfortunate recurring theme throughout the week) and "don't get too close to the rocks." The current was strong, and they provided masks with mouthpieces but not flippers, so most of us stayed in safer areas where there was less to see. Frankly, it felt so good to be in the water that I didn't mind seeing just a few fish and some aquatic plants. I floated happily, assuming the snorkeling would get better throughout the week.

 

Back on board, I had considered going to the lecture, but the topic seemed to have nothing to do with the Caribbean. This, too, would be an unfortunate recurring theme. Instead, I enjoyed an unhurried Informal night in the company of new friends.

 

 

Day 5: Fort-de-France, Martinique

 

Another day, another quiet island -- today at dock. There was a small farmer's market at the pier, with dazzling fruits, vegetables, and spices, as well as home-made spiced rum. As Martinique is a French territory, EU travelers were delighted to find that their phones worked, and that they could use Euros on land.

 

Today's excursion was a long one: the "North Discovery by Catamaran," clocking in at 7.5 hours. It was a smorgasbord of everything I could have wanted: several good snorkeling spots (again with no flippers -- what is up with that???), substantial time under sail, a delicious local lunch on board, time ashore in St. Pierre under the looming presence of Mt. Pelee, and excellent company. Our highlight was sailing with the dolphins -- an enormous pod that jumped and rolled and played in our wake. I happened to be sitting out on the bow netting, and the dolphins skipping across the water right below and beside me. What a thrilling ride!

 

Back onboard, Colin and the classical singers treated us to an excellent pre-dinner performance of "Voce dell'Opera," the most enjoyable iteration of this production I've experienced. I particularly appreciated how Colin and the soprano (Eleanor) provided context for the pieces they performed. From there, we all enjoyed a Casual dinner, and a later performance by the other four Voices, the duet-driven "Simply Divine." I had seen the same set on the Muse just a few months prior, and generally speaking it's good fun -- with the notable exception of the ever cringe-worthy "The Doggone Girl Is Mine." 

 

All in all, quite a fine day in the "Paris of the Caribbean."

 

[Unibok]

26 minutes ago, brimary said:

From recent cruise with Colin on the Wind got the impression retirement was being considered.The departure of he Wind to the Iceberg fleet is the final nail in the coffin for us after 22 great SSyears.Best wishes to Colin a fabulous CD.

 

He has certainly more than earned a restful retirement if that is what he chooses, but he will be sorely missed by so many. FWIW, I felt the same as you when I heard about the Wind's pending Cloudification, but I'm considering giving her a chance in the British Isles in 2021. 

[jpalbny]

33 minutes ago, Unibok said:

FWIW, I felt the same as you when I heard about the Wind's pending Cloudification, but I'm considering giving her a chance in the British Isles in 2021. 

 

Do it, as long as you like the itinerary.

 

We have been on Cloud 3x as a classic ship, and 1x as an expedition ship. She is still the same great ship, and we can't wait to get back on board Cloud in 27 days. It's the best of both worlds.

[brimary]

On 12/8/2019 at 4:48 PM, Unibok said:

 

He has certainly more than earned a restful retirement if that is what he chooses, but he will be sorely missed by so many. FWIW, I felt the same as you when I heard about the Wind's pending Cloudification, but I'm considering giving her a chance in the British Isles in 2021. 

Thanks for your superb and informative reports.We never say never so we may give our favourite Wind a go as an Expedition experience.