What a fun topic!  Italy to me is the best for food,  sorry France,  but the simple fresh ingredients just make it such a Delight if you avoid the tourist traps.     Agree about avoiding the bright pistachio, that’s kind of a bellwether of the not so good.  We like Giolittis, but have had really good gelato nearer Campo di Fiori that looks like a tourist trap.  So if in doubt give it a try!  One year I only had Pesca,  and it was amazing how different it could be.      We have a fa
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