The other thing that there has seemed to be a lot of discussion about is independent tours. We hired SorrentoLimo in Naples for a drive along the Amalfi coast and Pompeii. Gennaro was the person with whom I corresponded but we got Mario who was wonderful. He had suggestions and we picked what we wanted to do. The drive along the coast was wonderful and we want to go back there to see more another time. Pompeii was very crowded, parts were closed and it was.....believe it or not....rainy. Didn't really enjoy it but want to go back again under better conditions. The big tour groups kept getting in our way so that it was hard to use the phone guides we had rented. I had been there years before so know it can be better appreciated than it was on this trip. Will try again some day.
In Kusadasi we had a wonderful guide. We had arranged along with several others who read this board to have **********@yahoo.com take us to Ephesus and guide us through. He was very good. The only change I would make is to not stop at the carpet place on the way back. It took time away from our being able to wander thru Kusadasi. I don't know how the others felt, but we weren't interested in buying rugs. Other than that, it was a very worthwhile excursion....much better than a big group.
These were the main things I had questioned and thought maybe some of you might like to know. Oh, one other thing, we arrived at Rome a day early having flown in from a few days at Istanbul, and stayed at the Holiday Inn near the old Rome airport. They had a free bus to take us there and then we had to pay for a car to take us to the ship the next day. We knew we wouldn't have time to sightsee in Rome, so for 125E it was a good choice. Let me know if I can answer any other questions. Sue