TanTien

9 hours ago, sr71_1 said:

Just bought the new ZEISS SFL 10x40's.  The big draw for me is the low weight at 22.6oz combined with a decent field of view & 90% light transmission.   We'll see. 

   

You got a really nice pair of bins! I've had my eyes on Zeiss for a while but couldn't afford them. And now I have too many. My best ones are Vortex Vipers 8x32 and Nikon SEs 8x32s. 😁

Enjoy your shiny new bins! 

On 3/27/2024 at 11:16 AM, Heidi13 said:

 

When dealing with binoculars with only a 32 mm objective lens, the "Exit Pupil" size becomes a potential issue, especially with higher magnifications.

 

The "Exit Pupil" is the binocular's virtual aperture, which restricts the light entering the eye. Exit pupil is calculated by dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification. In the case of 10x32 binoculars, the Exit Pupil is 3.2, which is well below the optimum level, unless using binoculars in bright conditions.

 

A higher Exit Pupil is recommended, with 4 often considered the minimum, but personally, I prefer a minimum of 5, which is why I prefer 10x50 binoculars on cruise ships, which also have a wide field of view. 

Agreed: a larger exit pupil is better and brighter; however, it will come at a cost of size and weight. I used to have USN 7x50 binoculars and believe me when I say that they were very large and heavy. Bright, yes, but because I had to use them at night on bridge watch. When I am cruising, I don't use my binoculars much at either early dawn or late in the evenings or for astrological events, so a good pair of 8x32 MM objectives (EP=4.125 - what I have and recommend) might well be enough. 10 x 32s exit pupil will depend on the quality of the optics, what you need them for and how old your eyes are. When you get older, you eye muscles will not be able to accommodate a smaller exit pupil, so you will need to calculate that ratio to see how your eyes can handle both the smaller exit pupil and the other factor of the eye relief. I have a 10x40 pair of near Alpha bins that are terrific, but they are also heavy and not something I enjoy traveling with as much as my smaller 8x32s. 

9 hours ago, RN_Prof said:

If this is a one-time-use item, why not rent or borrow a pair?

Because rentals may be low quality and hard to come by. If you can borrow a decent pair, you can try them out before going to your cruise. My earlier recommendations still are good guidelines. Smaller, waterproof, at or under 10 x and probably 32 MM objectives will be bright enough and compact enough for traveling.

Nice! They should be great! 😊 The trade-off between optical power (10x vs 15x) will be apparent but this is what you gain at the lower power: Wider field of view (makes things easier to sight in and find), brighter image, much easier to hold for long periods, especially if you are tracking an animal or bird. Finally: the shake factor will be much reduced so your eyes don't need to jump around trying to follow the image. I have a pair of 10x42 Zen-Rays (now defunct, unfortunately) that I've brought on other cruises. These are "near-alpha" in quality and they are bigger/heavier than most of my other binoculars but also crystal clear and bright. I can better control the shaking because of their weight. So your Vortex Vipers should be excellent as well.
Vortex remains an excellent company and stands by its products. 

3 hours ago, LEMJMcC said:

Well, I spent $330 on the Vortex Diamondback 15X56 binoculars.  I played around just a little with them last week, but will give them a good try when we go camping over Labor Day.  I have until 9/19 to return them.  Main use will viewing wildlife or landscape features from a distance.  I plan to take a monopod with me on the ship.  I have a pair of 10X42 Bushnell, but I'd like something with a bit more power.  I'll know more after camping in a couple of weeks.

Thanks.

I hope they work out for you and that you have a return window. In any case, they will be a quality set of binoculars. A monopod will definitely help with their weight. Let me know if you have any questions. 

Note about 

On 8/13/2023 at 6:18 PM, Heidi13 said:

 

Just looked at the specs and they wouldn't be my choice of binoculars.

 

In addition to the high magnification, which is basically double the recommended magnification for use on ships, I have issues with:

 - They have a very small Field of View - 230' at 1,000 yds, whereas your 10x42 Bushnels are 341'. The smaller FoV makes it way more difficult to locate small objects at a distance.

 - Eye relief - if you wear glasses, the eye relief of 15.6 mm may be too low, which can cause loss of viewing at the edges.

 - Weight - they are about 40% heavier than the 10x42. 

I agree with this. More power is not better and the stability will be negatively affected unless image stabilization is used. I have a Canon 12x36 Image Stabilized pair and I cannot get the image at 12X to steady without the stabilization.
 

For sightseeing/birding/wildlife watching, 8X is the maximum I would recommend. More light transmission (brighter with a larger exit pupil) and a wider field of view are all benefits.

These 15x56 binoculars are best used for stargazing with a tripod, will be heavy (34.8 oz/2.175 lbs), and will be very large for casual wildlife and scenery. Even the Vortex site says for these particular bins: "Note – Recommended for use with a tripod. Tripod adapter included."

What is your budget and use case? I can help with a recommendation if these don't work out for you.

This will depend on your budget, but there are a few things that may help: travel with compact binoculars: 8x32s are probably the best balance between size, power, and the shaking that an Alaskan boating excursion might force you into.
- Waterproof/fog proof because you don't want to worry about them in the rain or dunked in a lake. Fogproof so you don't end up in Alaska with fog inside your optics.

- 8X power (not 10X or higher because they cause too much shake).
- 32 MM Objectives let in enough light and are smaller/less bulky to carry.

In order of preference (and because I know people like to have options) but I wanted a good lifetime warranty and a cost that would not break the bank:

1. Vortex Diamondback HD 8X32 ~$260 
2. Celestron – TrailSeeker 8x32 ~$198 or Opticron Discovery WP PC 8x32 ~$200
3. Vortex Optics Crossfire 8x32 ~$140
4. NIKON PROSTAFF P3 8x30 ~$107

Better brands are Vortex, Nikon, Zeiss, Pentax, Vanguard, and Swarovski but they are well over $300 (up to a few thousand) per pair.
You get what you pay for. The higher cost is a higher quality build (tougher), better optics, and a brighter image. Heavier means more glass and metal and less plastic. It should also last you a lifetime of cruising.

If you have a bigger budget, I recommend anywhere between $300-600 which is the sweet spot for great quality and value--above that price range it becomes much harder to see the jump in clarity and brightness. Example: the Vortex Viper HD binoculars (below, discontinued) I have are my go-to pair for cruising. They were ~$550 and were wide-angle, under 21 ounces, and very compact. 

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any questions.

Update from about an hour ago. https://www.washingtonpost.com/travel/2020/03/27/four-passengers-have-died-zaandam-cruise-ship-where-two-people-tested-positive-covid-19/

See the following for a list of binoculars that work well with glasses..

 

http://www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/binocular-eye_relief-16-longeyerelief.html

I'm not sure about this non-mainstream brand of binoculars that this article recommends, but the advice is solid: "In most cases an eye relief [ER] of 14 to 15mm is adequate for most people who wear eyeglasses to be comfortable. Ideally though you should look for binoculars that have an eye relief of 16, 17 or even 18mm"

This becomes important when you get into the compact versions of the binoculars: many have ERs of only 10-12 mm, so may not work well/at all for eyeglass wearers. So make sure you look for the eye relief measurements and be sure they are within the recommended range.

After several people told me it is impossible to see whales from the ship without binoculars I started looking at them on Amazon. It's a PITB: Nobody uses "wide angle lenses" or "X zoom" to describe them; instead I have to look at jargon no first-time buyer can understand. Stuff like "8x42" means absolutely nothing if a shopper has never had binoculars before. Can someone help me?

 

:confused:

 

BTW the binoculars must be lightweight whether they fit in purses or not.

Hi CruisingSince2012,

I hope this binocular thread may help that I started a while back:

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?p=43661906

Wide angle lenses: means a wide field of view (less panning around trying to look for your target). If you can find a number on the specs, anything over 7 degrees is considered wide angle.

"X zoom": stay away from anything calling itself a Zoom binocular. they are all fragile and compromised optically in some way

"8x42" is sometimes called the "power" of the binocular, where the first number (8) is the magnification (how many times larger your image is over your naked eye) and the 42 is the measurement of the big light gathering end of the binocular (called the "objective") this means 42 mm in diameter.

When you go shopping, 7-10 is the range of magnification you should stay within, if you are just starting. 8 is more common now and will be less shaky when you're looking through them. Don't get a 10X unless you have very steady hands.

The Objectives should be 42 MM or below, and I recommend 32 MM to keep the overall size of the binoculars down. Remember that the smaller the objectives, the less light they will gather, so are less effective at dawn and dusk, but should make little difference in daytime for most.

Weight ranges anywhere from 29 ounces (heavy) to about 8 ounces (very light) and will depend of the quality of the glass inside as well as what the body is made from (polycarbonate or aluminum or magnesium will make them lighter)

For best size and portability and bang for the buck I recommend a waterproof reverse porro binocular like this one from Vortex(12.7 ounces).

If you can afford just a little more for some added brightness, this is one from Opticron (17.5 ounces) that I can also recommend.

Your budget will determine where you land. Let me know if this helps!

Happy viewing!

Glenn

I have three sets of excellent binoculars and given the choice between taking a camera or binoculars on a trip I would opt for binoculars, and I am a very enthusiastic photographer.

 

Go to a good camera/binocular store and try out image stabilized binoculars - they should cancel out both hand movement and ship movement and give you a very clear image. I tried a set of Canon stabilized and compared them with the very good Vortex that I own and the difference was amazing. If I did not need a waterproof set, I would have gone with the image stabilized. Not cheap but the results are impressive.

Let me second airheadfan's recommendation: I have the Canon 12x26 IS's and love them. That magic image stabilization button makes a HUGE difference in how you see things; makes for very happy eyes and terrific viewing.

My caveat's are: they are not waterproof, they are a bit bulky, and they are on the expensive side. But, of all the binoculars I own, they are the ones that really make my eyes less stressed when I look through them and I can spend time actually looking at the whale, goat, seal, otter, eagle, rather than trying to calm the jumpy image down.

I realize what I have is expensive, but I want to let folks know how pleased I am with what I have ... especially in Alaska. I purchased Canon Image Stabilizing (10 x 30) binoculars. Once you focus, you simply hold down the button on top and the image "locks" in. No shaking or bouncing around like you get handholding other binocs. It's great for panning the ocean for whales or scanning across the shoreline looking for animals! I realize they're not for everyone ... but I'm really happy that someone told me about them. So, I thought I'd pass the info along.

Let me second BigGuy's recommendation: I have the Canon 12x26 IS's and love them. That magic image stabilization button makes a HUGE difference in how you see things; makes for very happy eyes and terrific viewing.

My caveat's are: they are not waterproof, they are a bit bulky, and they are on the expensive side. But, of all the binoculars I own, they are the ones that really make my eyes less stressed when I look through them and I can spend time actually looking at the whale, goat, seal, otter, eagle, rather than trying to calm the jumpy image down. :)

I have a cruise to Alaska in June and would like binoculars for the trip but the truth is I will probably never use the again. I have read the posts on good types and really appreciate them. I have decided because I have so long till I go to start looking in some pawn stores hoping to find a Great deal maybe even a deal in a new camera.

 

My questions is because I am getting a used pair is there anything I should be careful to look for. Is there a down side to buying used binoculars or cameras. Basically I am hoping to use your experience to avoid buying a broken or damaged item because of m inexperience with them. Thanks in advance.

My advice is don't do it for the reasons Bruin Steve said. Go instead to a place (Eagle Optics, CameraLand that sells "Demos" or just order from Costco (they've got a nice Alpen Optics Shasta binocular 10x42 for $100).

These demo models are used, and they are backed by the company that sells them. Pawn shops? Not at all! And the optics they'd sell you may be badly out of alignment or worse.

Binoculars can be used not only for cruising but birding and sight-seeing generally so don't cheap-out and get a pair of throw away (or used) binoculars. Buy them for a lifetime of use (and cruising)!

Hi All,

As a binocular-obsessed owner with at least 10 pair, ranging anywhere from $30-$800, I started a thread on this some time back and the information is applicable here.

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?p=43661906

Depending on your budget, the best bins will be what you use them for. Don't go by price alone and don't cheap out on your first pair. If I had bought good, solid binoculars to begin with, I would now have less and spent less overall.

Cheaper binoculars (like the inexpensive ones they sell on the ship) are cheap for a reason: they won't last. They will not survive bumps and drops, or will loosen up or will fog up or any number of problems that, if you buy a reputable brand with a lifetime guarantee, like, Vortex, Alpen, Eagle Optics, they will be ones you'll use for many many cruises, looking at wildlife and views of all sorts.

If you're an older cruiser, anything with an objective of over 42 will probably be a waste because the exit pupil (the shaft of light that hits your eye) will be larger than your pupils will accommodate, so, unless you are into stargazing and have strong arms, don't waste your money and the size on anything like 50 mm objectives, they are large, heavy, bulky, and don't add that much to your viewing pleasure.

There are plenty of solid binoculars that are in the $100-$300 range that offer great performance for the price and. Anything under $100 is typically going to disappoint you in the long run.

Always happy to provide advice and feedback.

Can anyone confirm the brand of T.V. on the Ruby? Are they Viewsonic Monitors? And can anyone recommend a universal remote that actually worked to change the input? Thanks in advance! The wife and I enjoy watching videos we shoot, and, a night watching an adult movie sounds interesting!

Secretservices: the Princess Grand classes were all some form of Viewsonic monitor. But I've never used a remote, always the manual method (see my reply to Mark on this thread).

Thanks for the picture Mark.

The TV's that I've seen on the Princess Grand classes are actually not TVs but computer monitors from Viewsonic, which explains the DVI & VGA connections.

The buttons for changing the inputs are actually high up--at the top of the monitor and unfortunately are almost unreadable (black letters on black plastic). There's a menu button, channel + - buttons, volume + - buttons and other buttons for Entering/exiting your choices. After you press the menu button, you use the channel and volume buttons to move within the menu choices.

I've had luck changing the video aspect with this method as well as changing the inputs but it is still tough if you cannot see and are doing it by feel.

As for connecting the device to the computer, I've not tried it, but there are HDMI L-connectors that might make it easier if the monitor is to close to the wall. (I'm bringing mine this next cruise!)

So thanks for your tips here--I just wanted to contribute my experiences to the thread.

I always hook my computer up to the TV in the Cabin, and have never had a problem. I do bring my own connection cables. I have not YET been on one of the ships with the newer on demand TV Systems such as the Royal and Regal, but I have read that people can still hook up by disconnecting the ships box and connecting their computer in that TV input. I sometimes will play movies if we just want to relax, plus sometimes I will show off some of the pictures and movies that I captured that day as well! It is your cruise, so enjoy it any way you like!!!

 

To give a little visual, attached is a sample of the rear of one of the ship's TV. (Missing from the right side of the picture is a Component Video Connection of RGB plus audio RCA Jacks.) It is a little tight hooking up in the back most of the time, so I suggest doing what I do and taking a flash picture so that you can study the layout to make for easier hookup.

 

Happy Cruising!!! :D

 

Mark

Another "ease of use" vote for the Canon SX50. I've had it for almost a year and found it to be an outstanding camera. It's what I'll be taking to Alaska in May, but I've found it incredibly versatile and excellent even at full zoom.

 

If you do get it, I highly encourage you to sit down with the book a little and sort out some of the options. There are a lot of very easy to use functions that do NOT require knowledge of manual settings that make huge differences in your pictures. Particularly in Alaska, and particularly near the glaciers, if there's a lot of sunlight, a few simple features can be the difference between a pretty picture and a gorgeous picture.

 

I'd also encourage you to think about a UV filter. They're not expensive, but also make a big difference, particularly with blue skies and scenery.

This is indeed a great camera! My wife has one and it has been an excellent choice in a fairly small package, considering the features and the huge optical zoom! And yes the UV filter really will replace the lens cap which keeps falling off, and doubles to protect the lens and enhance the colors.

I want to make a strong second to the recommendation for motion stabilizing binoculars. We took a pair on our first Alaska cruise 7 years ago and they were a game changer. With the stabilizing function you can go to a 10 power binoculars and the ship motion, plus your unstable grip will be eliminated. And if your target is moving! like wildlife! you really appreciate the difference. We would let others use these for a few minutes and everyone was blown away by the difference. There is one big caveat though - they are quite expensive. I just bought a new set from Canon (strong reviews) and they cost $500+

I too have left my trusty compact 8x32 binoculars at home for my Canon 12x36 Image Stabilized. And yes for the price they should be water-proof, not just water resistant. But OH do my eyes thank me when I press that magic button! :)

All the shakiness is virtually gone and so if you're trying to catch a closeup on a whale or a pod of dolphins or even a grizzly on a rock, these really do the trick. Yes they are bulky (get a harness, please) and funky looking but boy they really come through for distant viewing. I've even taken them birding and they do very well.

If you can afford them, your eyes will thank you!

Just curious, what do you use the binoculars for on a deep sea fishing trip?

As long as they are waterproof and fog-proof. and below 10X (to reduce the shakiness), they should be fine. 7X50 are classic for marine use but they tend to be very bulky and heavy.

Best = Steiner Marine 7x50

Cheap but decent = West Marine 7x50.

 

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Just be aware that 7x50s are heavy. The West Marine's that Flatbush recommends are nearly 2 lbs. So if you get these, get a harness instead of a neck-strap to take the weight off of your neck.

I have purchased many of my binoculars from Eagle Optics and like them for their service and policies and especially their expertise. They will gladly talk with you and ask about what you need. They also have an excellent return policy.

For the selection below, I made some assumptions: that you are an eye-glass wearer, that you want waterproof binoculars, that your magnification is up to 9X (8X and 9X is great for cruising because of the stability issues above this level).

If I had to make more recommendations to this listing, it would be to physically try them if you can. Get a sense of if you'd like something smaller (which might mean less light at dawn and dusk, but they are lighter) or if you prefer a full sized pair (fitting your hands, brighter but also heavier). I would also suggest getting an "ED" grade of glass if you can afford it--more light, less distortion, truer colors.

Let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.eagleoptics.com/binoculars?price_min=200&price_max=300&magnification_max=9.0&magnification_min=8.0&waterproof=yes&eye_glass_wearer=yes&per_page=24

I'm sorry for hacking the camera threads, but I wasn't sure where else this topic would go. Do any of you have recommendations for binoculars that don't cost a fortune (or that do maybe that I could find on eBay lol).

 

I don't really understand how the description of binoculars work and I want something I can use to see islands and other ships off our balcony. I'd appreciate any advice and tia <3

Here's a general purpose link I put together for questions like this.

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1869022&highlight=binoculars

To recommend something for you it would be helpful to know your budget. There is a large difference between $50-300 binoculars and another tier at $300-800.

What is the maximum you are willing to pay for a pair of binoculars for cruising, OnePsychLynne?

The only time I'll use them is on the cruise or deep sea fishing. That's why I didn't want to invest a lot of money, but I did want something that would work good enough to use :)

Your budget will define what quality you will get. What's the most you would pay? Do you want compact or are full sized binos OK? Remember: This is one investment that you'll probably be using for years.

Glenn

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We got these binoculars last week, just in time for a weekend day trip to Angel Island. They worked great...just what we were looking for! Perfect for daytime sightseeing. Thanks again for the suggestion!:)

You're so welcome! So glad I could help.

Glenn

Go with a small one, but try them out first. Remember the weight.

If you go small (like an 8x21), try reverse-porro models for the best light transmission because they will not be as bright in the dawn or at dusk. But they will be very portable and travel-friendly.

I love mine but do not expect them to perform as well as the bigger models.