Grandcruisevirgin

My heart breaks for the people in Kiev. If you haven't done your cruise yet, you can't imagine how beautiful the downtown area is....was....

You can't imagine what the older people there, such as the city tour guide, Lila, have gone through in their life - war, starvation, communism, freedom for the past 20 years, and now to be going through all of this again.

Lila was in her late 70s and lived in a 7th or 8th floor apartment with her husband. Officially 'retired' - meaning too old to teach school, she found a job with Viking and that salary and tips - for which she was extremely grateful - supplemented her 'pension,' which wasn't much, since most of that was earned under the USSR, not Ukraine.

I wish I had gotten her email address, so I could contact her now.

I also used Olga from Odessawalks and would recommend her.

She had given me a quote of $265 for a trip to my grandparents' village, about 60 miles outside of Odessa, and I didn't book that trip, which I regretted. Now, I'm going to have to go back, just to do that! If I can get to London, there is a 'city break' trip to Odessa, and from there I'll go to my grandparents' village. Some day...

A mother and daughter on my cruise flew from Odessa to Lviv after the cruise and met a tour guide who took them to her grandfather's village and even to the cemetery where her great-grandparents were buried. He arranged lodging for them in the area, and then I think he drove them out of Ukraine through Poland or Romania, I can't remember which. She said the Carpathian mountains were completely different from the Dneipper River area and Crimea, and there were a lot more people using horse drawn wagons and carts in that area. She found the driver and company on the internet. When looking for tour companies that way, be sure to check reviews on Tripadvisor.com

Heritage travel is very big in Ukraine and growing. I hope the current political situation stabilizes soon.

FYI, if you like Ukrainian food - you will see Vareneki on the menu on the ship exactly once during the cruise, so be sure to read the menu carefully and order it then. You will see strudel on the menu once, so if you like that, get it when it's offered. I thought the Vareneki and strudel were just like my mom made them. The night they had strudel, I just ate that for dinner...:o

FYI, the DVD of the Black Sea Fleet Singing & Dancing Ensemble didn't work in my 2 (American) DVD players, but I can watch/listen to it on my computer.

I know that Peregrina thought the show was a tad expensive, but I thought it was wonderful.

The show they put on for Viking is just for the people on the cruise, but this ensemble has toured through most of Europe and won several awards.

True, the show was only an hour, but it came at the end of a long day - included city tour plus optional Chersonese tour & it didn't need to be 2 hours long - and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Some of the dances reminded me of dances my great-uncles and uncles used to do.

The balalaika player in particular was amazing, he had a way of strumming the balalaika by just shaking his hand that I had never seen before

The DVD was 200 UAH, a little less than $25 US. They also sell an audio CD, I don't remember what that cost.

Made it home last night, after my 'forced night' hotel stay in Vienna - very nice hotel with a bathtub! I took a long bath Thursday night, then a shower Friday morning.

The Kiev pre-extension - The Radisson Blu was very nice, my room faced a courtyard and the breakfast buffet was excellent. I ate at the bar the first night and had Chicken Kiev in Kiev and a figs and brie appetizer, which were enough for me (you can't go wrong with bar food! The people who were trying borscht for the first time ever did not look happy...) Despite the rain, the walking tour the next day was great. Our guide was Lilla, who was very knowledgeable and she dropped us off in downtown Kiev, after pointing out her favorite restaurant, which a group of us tried for lunch. I had cherry pierogies (forgetting the Ukrainian name right now and too jet lagged to get up and look) with sour cream: delicious! A few others and I made our way back to the hotel and stopped at St. Michael's cathedral, which was not on the tour the next day. We also went to St. Sophia's Cathedral, but could not get in, as they were using it as a set for some filming. While walking around it, some actors rode by on horses, dressed in Russian Army uniforms from I guess Tsarist times.

That night, I ate in the Italian restaurant connected to the Radisson that night and had a wonderful meal.

The next day I went on the optional tour of the Ukrainian folk visit and that really gave me a peak of what life was like in 19th century Ukraine. I bought a hand signed plaque in the shape of an apple, in the black lacquer style, but with a burgundy background.

Then, there was the transfer to the ship, which was a low point of the trip, as all of the luggage did not fit under the bus and it was jammed around the front of the bus precariously. Fortunately there were no sudden stops.

Life in my 4th floor single cabin was good, with more square footage than the lowest priced double cabins, a bedspread on the bread, complimentary fruit plate, a robe and slippers. Throughout the trip, the other 3 solo travelers and I were treated as well as the other 4th floor travelers. I tipped my housekeeper Natalie accordingly, as she was wonderful.

Let me stop and put in a good word for the entire housekeeping staff, who were constantly cleaning and polishing and were the first line of defense for stopping infection. (There was a cold going around in a group of Canadian women, who had taken the Trans Siberian railroad and/or the Czar cruise before this one, but it didn't spread outside of that group, who also played cards, which also facilitates the spread of germs.)

The next day was the included city tour and I found myself on bus 1D with Natasha as the tour guide and Alexander as the driver. They were the best tour guide and driver on the cruise and were usually assigned to drive/lead some of the optional tours, such a the bridge tour. Natasha is very positive and upbeat and extremely knowledgeable and funny. She made the long drives entertaining.

I then went on the Jewish Kiev tour, again with Lilla as the city guide, which included a stop at Babi Yar, a place I never imagined I'd see. The stop at a Kiev synagogue, where the rabbi hit us up for a donation and even suggested an amount, after first determining how many American Jews were in the group, ended that trip on a low point.

Well, this has been a long post and does not begin to cover everything.

Alyona did a fantastic job as Program Director.

The food had its high and low points: the cheese pierogies, just like mom used to make, although she called them 'kreplachs,' were a high point, I almost cried after eating them! I did go to the Ukrainian lunch and the recipe for the dough was printed in the Viking Daily, so someday, when I can get some farmer's cheese, I'm going to try to make them on my own. The Chateaubriand was a low point, as I had asked for it well done and they gave me an end piece, which was not edible. I sent it back uneaten as I did with some veal which I had ordered for lunch one day and a strange vegetable entrée with a fried egg on top, which I had ordered for dinner one night. No one ever asked me if there was something wrong with those meals and/or offered to bring me something else, which I noted on my evaluation form. May as well get all of the negatives over with at once - the waitresses were constantly flirting with the male travelers and at times it was hard to get their attention. The dining room on the fourth floor was loud, and I never got used to the waitresses shouting 'Soup?' unexpectedly behind me at times.

For me, the most emotional points of the trip were the visit to Babi Yar, the stop at the scene of the Charge of the Light Brigade, where a chill ran down my spine, just like it did when I had visited Antietem (US Civil war battle scene) and Gettysburg, and the private Jewish Odessa tour that I had booked, which came together at the last minute and included the Holocaust Memorial in Odessa. After seeing that and Babi Yar, I know I could never handle a trip to an concentration camp, and I'm not sure I could visit the US Holocaust Museum either.

I am so glad that I did this trip when I did. The rain was daunting, and the cold unexpected. I thought I'd tough it out with my London Fog raincoat and a light sweatshirt and umbrella, but on the last day, I broke down and bought a Viking fleece and a hat and mittens at a store in Odessa. These purchases made the day doable.

For anyone considering this trip, I think the best time to do it as far as it being not too hot and not too cold would be the Kiev to Odessa trip that starts in late August. :)

Ann and I have recruited a new member, Quack82, but his membership is awaiting moderation.

Can we vouch for him and speed up the process?

P.$ the countdow clock has said I sailed, but not true, we are still at the hotel waiting for the bus to the ship.

Well, I know I haven't been that active lately.

I packed. Sort of. This is the most disorganized packing I've ever done. I just threw things into the suitcase as they came out of the dryer. I know the suitcase is way under 40 pounds because I can lift it and I can't lift 40 pounds. I packed some clothes that I'll leave on the ship, if I need extra room on the way back.

As for the carry-on...

My purse fits into my carry-on, the cute little travel case Viking sent doesn't quite hold the Kindle, which already had a case/protector, but I'll make it work.

I thought that since my grandparents left Europe on German ships, I'd return on a German plane, but unfortunately, Lufthansa got code-shared into United. I downloaded a Frankfurt app, unfortunately the terminal map is in German. Well, I'm not above playing the clueless American, a role I've perfected over the years!

I obsessed about coats long enough (as Silkismom knows!) that I finally bought myself a new one with a zip out lining.

I'm sure I forgot something, but I still have tonight and tomorrow to remember.

Thanks for all of the tips and advice from everyone over the past year and a half.

Lots of practical advice, the funniest of which I thought was that the pork loin was actually port butt!

I actually like pork loin, and I make a delicious pork loin Picatta, from a Weight Watcher's recipe, but I'll be sure to not order that. :rolleyes:

I wonder if the falling apart nature of this sailing is due to a lot of the staff leaving to go back to school?

I'm not sure I understand the tipping policy explained in my documents.

$15 day for the ship staff, I get that part.

I don't understand the $10 day for tour staff. Do I just count cruise day where there are tours I go on? Do I feel delete the day the cruise starts, the day it ends and the one day there are no stops?

If I'm taking a private tour one day, not a Viking tour, do I delete that day too?

Blue Angel -

What's the chatter on the ship regarding potential US airstrikes in Syria?

Is anyone (staff, guests) concerned about this?

If you get CNN World or BBC in your cabin - what have they been saying? I've noticed that when I travel, I get different news overseas than that shown in the US.

Thanks,

GCV

Well, your blog has set the bar pretty high, Blue Angel, but it has motivated me to start my owned long planned travel log of this upcoming trip.

http://noborschtforme.blogspot.com/

I'll be doing more posts in the days leading up to the trip, but probably very few on the trip itself, and then more when I get back.

Creating this was surprisingly easy, let's see if I can keep it up and it will end after the trip.

Did you stay at the Radisson Blu? I've enjoyed reading your trip report.

I just received my departure package I'm at the Radisson Blu.

Time to start packing.

1 old long black skirt from Chicos is in the suitcase, as are the new slacks from R E I that have legs that zip off to make capris then could zip off higher to make shorts. New comfortable jeans from NYDJ outlet - $20 on sale, are in there. Scarf/shawl is in there.

Time to hit the gym and walk 1.5 miles today on a slight incline, then further and steeper tomorrow.

I was going to write a journal, focusing on my reasons for taking this trip, but it won't be written until I get back, as I'm not taking a computer.

Sounds like we may be on the same cruise. We leave California on August 28 to Kiev and off to Odessa. If that's your cruise, email me (basykes@gmail.com) and maybe we can connect before we sail.

Hi Blue Angel,

I'm on the Sept. 22 cruise, I guess that's 2 cruises after yours ends, so we won't even meet in Odessa. Have fun. I hope you enjoy the Turkey extension. I was going to do that, but decided that it seemed too unstructured. I'm doing the Kiev pre-cruise extension instead, equally unstructured, but at least it will give me a chance to catch up on my expected jet lag and do things such as exchange currency before the actual cruise starts.

GCV :cool:

 

Similarly, in Kiev, someone in an earlier post discussed a private tour that could take you to the evaluated nuclear zone, if you were cleared ahead of time, but failed to discuss the names of the tour operators. Also if there are any independent, english speaking tours in Kiev that folks recommend, I would love to hear about it.

 

Again wonderful thread. Thanks to all who contributed and those who started it!

Hi, welcome to our thread.

I googled 'Chernoybyl tours' (I know I spelled that wrong...) and found the names of two companies offering tours. I don't have them at hand, but if you can't find them, post again and I'll search again.

If you haven't picked a cruise date yet, I would suggest going in the Spring or late summer/fall, when the temperatures there will be more moderate. One of the people who did the trip this summer mentioned high temperatures and people fainting from the heat. I think the prices are a little better at those times, if that is a consideration.

Thank you for the information. Do you happen to know the cost of the optional tours? :)

I just realized that since I'm arriving in Kiev on Friday, Sept. 20, the optional Jewish tour of the pre-cruise extension will also be on a Saturday.

Is this optional Jewish Kiev tour also run on the first day of the cruise? (That would be Sunday, Sept. 22 for me.) I'm so confused.

I'm back to thinking about doing the Chernyobyl tour on that Saturday, Sept. 21, but it seems like that (9 hours) would be a very long day. Maybe I should just do the walking tour with Viking that Saturday morning and take it easy the rest of the day, as I most assuredly will still be jet-lagged. :confused:

Hi all, does anybody remember what symbols are on the atms? The card I hope to use is in the following networks: plus, co-op, allpoint and star.

Thanks

Now that I have it scanned into a jpeg file, I'm going to print it and bring the printed pages with me. I'm sure someone on the ship will be able to translate the other pages.

My grandparents were supposed to have been from Beresovka, but maybe they had to go to Kherson for the passport, maybe Kherson was the province capital. Knowing this makes that part of the trip more exciting.

Just checked my little map again - Kherson seems to be the name of the province and also the city. Well, that seems to be the area my father's people are from. Beresovka seems to be about the same distance from the city of Kherson as it is to Odessa.

I have not been too active here lately.

I have my adaptor and my flat sink stopper in my suitcase already. :) In two months and one week, I leave.

I recently connected with someone who may be a 4th or 5th cousin on my father's side. I told her I had my grandparents' passport that they used to immigrate to the US in 1914. Today I scanned it into a jpeg file, and am attaching the German/French pages of it. Alas, I do not speak/read either language.

But, tell me if I'm imagining things or if it really says that it was issued in Kherson on May 14, 1914?

:confused:

Well, I tried to insert it above, but it seems I have to put it online somewhere and link to it.

It says in French: Kherson and in German: Cherson.

Very excited about this!

Is this the right one?

http://www.amazon.com/OREI-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B004SY5O5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372885203&sr=1-1&keywords=adapter+for+europe

Because this is the one I bought.

Figured it out - you have to go to the Luthansa site, not Austrian Air. I got my window seat, all is good! :cool:

Grand--we are still "request" for the Vienna hotel also. For your air, I assume it has been ticketed by now--I paid extra for early ticketing. Go to United or whomever and if you don't already have a frequent flyer number, get one, sign in and enter your locator (found on your booking info from Viking) you can choose your own seat that way. Same way with Lufthansa--don't need frequent flyer number with them, just find with "name and locator" it will be under the Austrian air on 3 Oct. Can't get seats for the short flts. I've changed ours around several times.

Aghhhhh.

I am a Miles & More member.

I went to Austrian Air, put in my last name, Miles & More number and whatever that 6 character alpha-numeric reservation number thingie is. My reservation comes up. My seat on Luthansa from IAD to Frankfurt is confirmed. Austrian Air will not let me pick a seat on the Vienna - IAD leg of the trip.

I'm done worrying about this for the day. Viking has my request for a window seat, perhaps when we get closer, they'll tell me what this is.

I am still puzzled how to spend Viking’s $200 onboard credit? Btw, do they calculate it in hryvnias?

I would guess that you could use the credit to cover tips, optional excursions, at the bar, etc.

I was wondering about the trip to Chekov's summer home - is that still offered, and if so, has anyone done it? What about the ballet in Odessa, I'd much rather see that than an opera?

I was thinking of organizing a cabin crawl/poker game on the Sept. 22 trip, if there's enough interest. If there are any 'lurkers' here scheduled for that cruise, bring a deck of cards and $5.00 US to put into the pot. There's a free afternoon after leaving Yalta. We can start in my cabin, I'll lay out a deck of cards on my berth, everyone drops their $5 into the pot and picks a card. Then we move on to the next cabin - let's try to get a range of cabin classes, and everyone looks at that and picks another card. At the end of the crawl, the person with the best poker hand wins the jackpot. This is a good way to see all of the different cabin types.

I just got my 'final' itinerary this week - I'm still in the 'hotel requested' stage regarding the Vienna hotel on the trip back, and 'window seat request.' So, how can that be final? :confused:

$50 US is a lot to pay to go somewhere to shop.

Thanks for the tips on the Kiev and Odessa tours. I may try to book my own tour in Odessa, may even try to visit my grandparents city

I'm wondering if it would be helpful to bring an empty styrofoam egg container from home to carry the real eggs back...

How much are the 'real' eggs vs. wooden ones?

HaS ANYONE BOOKED THE ROUTE OF THE COSSACKS RECENTLY? I AM NOW A LITTLE WORRIED ABOUT GOING BECAUSE IT IS EXPENSIVE WITHOUT MANY AMENITIES?

I booked this cruise more than a year ago for September 2013. I talked to a travel agent and Viking has a good reputation.

I did a trans Atlantic cruise last year on a big ship with a spa, hair salon, and gym I didn't use and I was bored on the sea days.

This itinerary suits me, to each his own. Plus, Ukraine interests me as that's where my family is from. I'm excited about this cruise.

Hi poster before me. Contact Altiva of odessainterpreters.com about tours in Odessa. He may know of an agency in Kiev also.