tennisbeforewine

P. S.  Thanks for the photo, Pete.  Hope your flight went as smoothly as ours.

Not only were we on that flight, but the night before we exchanged miles, some $$, and our firstborn for business class seats.  Not only were we extremely comfortable, but the "pod" seats kept our "social distancing" in effect. 

The 13 hours flew by!  I'll be writing a final post as soon as all the paperwork gets finished.   

Saturday, March 21, 2020

Fremantle and Perth, Australia

Although we were scheduled to arrive in Fremantle on the 22nd, we actually arrived at 8:00 this morning (March 21).  We had booked the Doubletree Hotel in Perth for two nights, allowing one day as a "sea day" to hang around the pool, walk the neighborhood, and just relax.  

Well . . . . that wasn't quite what happened.  This morning, our VERY highly placed source told us that Fremantle would NOT allow any passengers to go to a hotel, but had to go directly to the airport for their flights.  That would mean that we would spend two more nights on the ship and go directly to the airport on the morning of the 23rd.  This information was not made public, and when I asked about it at the front desk, the officer there said, "I think you know more than we do."  Finally the announcement was made by the captain (because people really listen to him) that only those people going to the airport would be disembarked - and the groaning and complaining rose to a crescendo.  John was a nervous wreck, but my "What?  Me Worry?" attitude just made me look at tonight's menu and say, "Wow, there are all kinds of things I'd like for dinner."  

An hour later, the captain came on again and told us he had good news.  Apparently Canberra, the national capital, had overridden the earlier decision and we could not only leave the ship, but go to a hotel.  Within a half hour, we had our carry-ons in hand, walked off the ship and onto a bus headed for Perth.  One of the nicest things was that Captain Jonathan, who has become a good friend, was on the open area outside the bridge waving at us.  I blew him a kiss and he blew one back. 

Half an hour later, we arrived at one hotel, took a taxi to our hotel, and here we are, sitting at a sidewalk table of the hotel's bar, drinking a beer and a cider.  As much as I love the ship, this does have a very relaxed feeling, and this evening we're meeting one of John's former students/tennis players for dinner.  Tomorrow is a lovely free day, and mid-day Rich and Ginni will join us here.  

On the 23rd, we'll fly Virgin Australia (which is operating domestically) to Sydney, and on the 24th we head HOME!  We're on United Airlines non-stop to San Francisco, where our rental car will await us for the four-hour drive to home sweet home.  I've always believed that "everything will always work out for the best," and although we're not home yet, things are looking good.  

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

At Sea en route to Fremantle (for Perth), Australia

We thought we'd arrive in Fremantle on March 24, but because we were not allowed to stop at "in-transit" ports, we'll be arriving earlier than expected - on Sunday, March 22.  After waiting with bated breath (and in the middle of a lot of griping and moaning), Captain Jonathan came over the intercom with HAL's updated information for us on the cancelled cruise.  Here are the main points that he communicated:

• If you have HAL air service (Flightease), you will be flown home.
• If you don't have Flightease, you need to make your own travel arrangements.
• If you had either four or unlimited baggage shipment, that will apply now.  Apparently the luggage will be tagged, left on the ship for the 28 or 29 days necessary to get back to Ft. Lauderdale, and then it will be shipped to our homes, for a total of nearly six weeks.  If you did not have a cabin category that included free luggage shipment, you may leave your suitcases and they will be shipped to you at FedEx rates.
• Travel change expenses will be reimbursed up to $1250.00.  (I'm not quite sure what that covers)
•  There will NOT be a 14-day quarantine period for disembarking passengers, since we have had medical clearance already.  This is John's favorite part.
• For compensation, we have two choices:  1.  Based on the full fare you paid, you may have a 50% credit and a 50% future cruise credit.  2.  You may have a 125% future cruise credit.  So . . . if you paid $100,000 (just because it's an easy number to work with), you may choose between a $50,000 (credit card) credit and a $50,000 future cruise credit OR you may have a $125,000 future cruise credit.  Of course most people paid a lot less than that, but that's the way it works out.

Of course this was all over the intercom system while I took notes, and we haven't yet received it in writing, but I'm sure that will be here today or tomorrow.  

So . . . what are WE doing?  We'll stay one night at a Perth hotel, then fly to Sydney on the 23rd, where we'll stay for (probably) four nights before flying to Los Angeles and thence to San Luis Obispo.  We're just hanging out on the ship while a lot of people are packing and just staying in their rooms.  Since we only have five days left of our "128 day" cruise, we plan to enjoy them.  Tonight is Ginni's birthday dinner, which also includes Woody, whose birthday was yesterday as well as Will, who will have his actual birthday in two days.  Our travel agent is hosting a cocktail party tomorrow evening, which follows two separate free happy hours yesterday afternoon and evening.  Sometimes I feel like people think we're sailing on the Titanic and have to pack everything into the next five days.   

If there's any other news, I'll write about it, but it seems pretty calm here right now.   

NEWS BULLETIN:

THE WORLD CRUISE WILL BE TERMINATED IN FREMANTLE (FOR PERTH) AUSTRALIA ON MARCH 24.  THERE IS NO INFORMATION YET AS TO HOW WE'LL GET HOME, REFUNDS, CREDITS, ETC.  

We know about the other cruise lines' decisions, but we also realize that we are as safe onboard this ship as we would be at home - probably more, and no one has to worry about people hoarding toilet paper (although I still don't understand that, since coronavirus is a respiratory disease).  If we have to return home mid-cruise we'll do so, but in the meantime we're certainly enjoying our current location.  In fact, my next activity is choosing what to wear for this evening's gala night.  

Thanks for your concerns and we'll keep you updated - except that you'll probably hear it before we do.

3/13/20

UPDATE:

I guess today's post was appropriately timed, because in his midday update, Captain Jonathan read a message from HAL's head office in Seattle.  In it, we were told that even though some other cruise lines are cancelling cruises, the Amsterdam is going to continue our cruise as planned, making changes as necessary.  I think almost everyone was glad to hear that, since that's what we signed on for, no matter how much the itinerary has changed.  We feel like anyone on a world cruise should be grateful for the opportunity, no matter where the winds  (and viruses) take us.

Friday the 13th of March, 2020

At Sea en route to Darwin, Australia

Today is supposed to be “Scenic Cruising of the Great Barrier Reef,” but there really is nothing to see, since it’s cloudy, which obstructs any ability to get a glimpse of the reef.  I don’t hear anyone complaining, though, since a sea day is a sea day, and now we get three of them before Darwin.

What are the words of the old song?  “Shall I stay or shall I go?”  That could be us, after today’s announcement from the president of Princess Cruises that all Princess ships are being called in and cruises cancelled.  In addition, the Seabourn world cruise was terminated in Perth, after which all passengers were flown home.  So . . . will we soldier on or just call it a day?  I mentioned that Seychelles and Reunion were cancelled, both at their request, but that information was on the news and has not been announced onboard ship.  I figured that they were just deciding which ports to use instead, but now I think they’re deciding whether to continue or just scrap the whole thing.

Our 3/4 circumnavigation of Australia is scheduled to end in Perth, after which we have seven days across the Indian Ocean.  Our last hope, I believe is South Africa, but their numbers are increasing and I know that countries are terrified of cruise ships, even though everyone onboard here has been on far longer than 14 days.  We’re a bit torn on the subject, but we, like almost everyone onboard, feel very safe and healthy, except for the colds and coughs that always plague a world cruise.  

Anyway, I shall keep you updated on our progress (or lack thereof), and I just hope that if we get cancelled, we hear about it before Facebook!

Thursday, March 12, 2020

Cairns, Australia

I am convinced that the most beautiful sunrise and sunsets in the world are seen from a ship in the middle of the ocean.  I’ve included one of each so you can see what I mean.  We just oooh and ahhh every time we see one or the other.  

John and I spent three days in Cairns a few years ago, flying up from Sydney and enjoying our own “shore excursions” here while waiting to rejoin the ship.  We took the beautiful old train to Kuranda, spent a day in Daintree Rain Forest, and snorkeled on the Great Barrier Reef for a full day.  We loved the town and enjoyed everything we did.

Today we’re here again, but the weather is entirely different.  Previously, we had three days of sun, to the point that I developed quite a sunburn on my back while snorkeling, but today was rain, rain, rain.  The forecast said that it would stop between 10:00 AM and noon and then come back with a vengeance in the afternoon.  So what did it do during that two hour “break?”  It rained, rained, rained.  Luckily for us, last night’s “pillow gifts” were collapsible umbrellas which are black outside with a light blue map of the world inside.  Even more than the aesthetics of the gift, however, it was perfectly timed.  

When we were here last year, we found a lovely little coffee shop, so the first search was for the same one.  We’re not sure it was the same, but it did have really delicious cappuccinos.  After that, the next stop was Woolworths for a few items.  First, of course, were Tim Tams, but in addition we wanted to pick up a few things to send home for our granddaughter’s Easter basket.   Having found that, John saw some particularly tasty looking crackers, two boxes to keep in the room and a box to take to Rich and Ginni’s next “suite party.”  

Passing an open-front tour office, we struck up a conversation with a lovely young lady named Beth, an American from Montana, who thinks she’ll go back to the States sometime, but not to the Montana winters.  Coincidentally, one of her best friends is one of the newscasters on our local news station, so we’ve been assigned to contact her friend and tell her hello.

On Beth’s recommendation, we went to a small Greek restaurant for lunch.  John had what turned out to be a deconstructed lamb gyro, which he was nice enough to share, and I had pita bread and tzatziki, a dip that was as good as what we had in Rhodes a few years ago.  I washed it down with a cider, and we were happy campers.

I’d intended to save time this afternoon for a pedicure, but when I stopped at the salon, they told me that their nail lady was out for the day, so no luck.  By then it was time to come back “home” to the ship so that John could have a nap and I could do a bit of writing.  I’d looked forward to seeing one of the new entertainers tonight, since they all changed out here, but it turns out that the evening’s entertainment is Bombshell, the movie about Roger Ailes and three female newscasters at Fox.  I really want to watch it, but it doesn’t begin until 9:30, so I guess I’ll wait until tomorrow and watch it on TV.  

We now have three sea days coming up, even though two of them are labeled “Scenic Cruising - Great Barrier Reef.”  I just hope the weather clears up a bit, since heavy grey skies make it really difficult to see what’s under the water.  We’ll just have to wait and see - and that seems to be the theme of this cruise!

P. S.  the four-masted ship is a Windstar cruise.  

Wednesday, March 11, 2020 Townsville, Australia At home, it’s very strange for us to have rain and 85 degree weather at the same time, but that’s what it is today in Townsville.  This is a beautiful little tropical town, with more friendly people and hundreds of palm trees.  We were here last year and enjoyed it just as much then.   Since the rain was pouring down, we waited until about 9:30 to disembark the ship.  By then the rain was light - just enough to ruin one’s hair and create puddles to skip over.  We’re docked a bit of a distance from town, so our complimentary shuttle took us right into the city center, where our first job, as usual, was to find a post card and get it in the mail.  After that was taken care of (with international stamps at $3.40 Aus), we decided to head down to The Strand, a blocks-long park that runs along the sea. On the way, however, we were waylaid by a friendly little coffee shop.  When I opened my wallet to pay for our cappuccinos, the cheeky young man working there commented that I had a really nice “California accent.”  I asked him exactly what that meant and he replied that you can just hear it.  Finally he admitted that he had caught a glance at my driver’s license, and we both had a laugh over that.   Coffee stop complete, we walked the rest of the way to The Strand, a beautiful part of Townsville with grass, tropical trees (I love the banyans), children’s play areas, war memorials, and a large swimming complex which is being renovated.  Sidewalks line both sides of the park area, so we just walked and walked, John taking photos while I read every historical marker. Finally we arrived at our destination:  Longboard, a bar and grill which sits right on the ocean and is somehow connected to Longboard on the Big Island of Hawaii.  In fact, their most popular beer is Longboard Lager, which we’ve enjoyed in Hawaii.  This time, however, I stuck to pear cider while John had a local draft beer.  We had agreed to meet Rich and Ginni there at 12:30, but since we were there at 11:45, we texted them so they’d be early.  Once they arrived, it was time for calamari, fish and chips, and a good time.  Whenever we’re at Longboard, we always run into shipboard friends and today was no different.   When lunch was over, we began the trek back to the shuttle and managed to fit in 4 miles for the day, which was good considering we didn’t even go to the gym this morning.  Between the shuttle and the ship there is, of course, a large building with a bit of a local market inside, so I was able to pick up a couple of things that I’d been looking for, including a loose cotton tropical dress and a “fake gold” necklace so I can have something around my neck and not worry about someone stealing it. It’s been a good day and we find Townsville a lovely stop along our “tour of Australia cruise.”  Tomorrow is Cairns, where there’s more rain forecast, but heck, that’s what umbrellas are for.  

Tuesday, March 10, 2020

At Sea en route to Townsville, Australia

It’s our second sea day, and it seems as though we are crossing the Atlantic.  There are sizable swells, gray skies, high winds, and occasional rain.  Here we thought we were supposed to be in Australian late summer - I guess not.  I really don’t mind, since it just keeps me inside to read or write, but John and company were rained off the paddleball court yesterday.  I think he’s going to give it a break for awhile, since his tennis elbow has returned with a vengeance.

Last evening our friend Martha invited us to join her in The Pinnacle Restaurant to enjoy the “A Taste of Tamarind Restaurant.”  You probably know that Tamarind is a permanent restaurant on Koningsdam and Nieuw Statendam (and probably others), but on other ships, it appears as a “pop up,” and on this cruise there will be three chances to enjoy it.  They did the same thing last year, but we didn’t enjoy it then nearly as much as we did last night.  We think they’ve really upped their game.  

We were a group of seven:  Martha, Will, Nancy, Greg, Heo, and the two of us.  Although we were crowded into a corner table, it just made things more interesting, as when we had to decide whose silverware and water glass was whose and then laughed about it.    

Tamarind calls itself a “pan-asian” dining experience, and it’s fun to decide which asian dishes to enjoy for the courses.  Most people choose two starters, a main, and a dessert, but I limited myself to one starter before I realized everyone else had ordered two.  That was OK, since I got to share some excellent choices from others’ plates.

I had the satay sampler, which included lamb, pork, beef, chicken, shrimp and pickled vegetables set off with two dipping sauces, sweet and sour as well as peanut sauce.  It was delicious, even though I couldn’t tell the difference between the lamb, the pork and the beef.  Maybe I just used too much sauce.

The other choices were shrimp tempura, spring rolls, Thai beef salad, a dragon roll (somewhat like a California roll, but with a “tail,”) and a veggie rainbow roll.  The soups were laksa and “Jewels of the Sea” with shrimp wontons.  I tried John’s dragon roll and I think I’ll have it next time.  Everyone’s reports were “two thumbs up” and then we were ready for main courses.

The mains are divided into four of the Chinese elements:  water, fire, wood and earth.  I had the ginger and garlic seared lobster (water), which was fantastic.  John and Martha had the Penang red curry coconut chicken (fire), which came in a large bowl - it was really too much for one person.  Will enjoyed the wasabi and soy crusted beef tenderloin (wood) , and Heo had the Korean duck breast bulgogi with sticky rice cake(also wood).  The other choices were barramundi, lamb with mint, sesame udon noodles, and sweet and sour vegetable tempura, the last two from the “earth” category.  Along with our mains, there were several side dishes, including rice, garden vegetables, bok choy and mushrooms.  If we’d had three thumbs, they would have all been up.

Even though everyone said they were full, it was dessert time and no one would pass it up.  There were three choices:  chocolate mousse in a dark chocolate shell, Thai mini donuts, and a huge “fortune cookie” with a chocolate ganache filling.  Since it’s still Lent, I had a delicious plate with strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries.  It’s nice to have that option, especially since our friend Ginni is seriously allergic to chocolate and she’d have to have something besides the menu offerings.

We were, as usual, the last people to leave the dining room, so we spent time chatting with Tina, the Pinnacle manager and taking silly photos.  It was a wonderful evening, and now we have the sommelier dinner on Friday to which we can look forward.  

Saturday, March 7 and Sunday, March 8, 2020

Sydney, Australia

What a place!  The excitement began at about 6:00 in the morning on our first day when we had one of the world’s best sail-ins, past the world-famous opera house and under Sydney Harbour Bridge.  We’ve done this sail-in several times, but it never loses its fascination for us.  We also love the fact that this is one of the most beautiful harbours in the world, but I imagine the English convicts who saw it didn’t think so.

Australia requires that every passenger, crew member, and officer go through a “face to passport” check with an immigration officer, much like we have to do when we return to the United States from overseas.  After we did that, we hopped on the ship’s shuttle and headed to Darling Harbour (doncha just love that name), the center of a lot of Sydney’s excitement and nightlife.  It was named after Ralph Darling, a British Lieutenant General, who was kind enough to name it after himself in 1826.  

We didn’t stay there long, but headed along Sussex street, which led us right into the middle of Chinatown.  As we had been warned, the area was very quiet, with few residents and even fewer tourists.  After a stroll through that area, we went directly to Paddy’s Market, a square-block building with small, indoor markets selling almost everything.  I’m not a shopper, so we just wandered through, enjoying the wares on display.  Slightly later, our friends Ginni and Leslie went through the market with serious shopping on their minds - and apparently they were very successful at it.

We left the market after having lunch at the third floor Asian food court, enjoying teriyaki chicken, fried rice and curried chicken.  We knew that George Street would lead us directly to Circular Quay, where we used to dock, right in the middle of the city.  If you haven’t been to Sydney, it’s the place from which you can take the best photos of the bridge and the opera house, and it’s also the ferry headquarters for the city.  Along the way we walked through Queen Victoria Building, the home of incredibly upscale shopping as well as lovely restaurants and tea rooms on the top level. It also has some beautiful stained glass along the walls and ceiling of this wonderful historical building. We kept wandering until we reached the Quay and then bought an Opal Card, similar to London’s Oyster Card, which is used for any public transportation in and around Sydney.  The first use of the card was to hop a ferry back to Darling Harbour and then board the shuttle back to the ship.  

A quick shower and a nap later, we met Rich and Ginni to take the shuttle back to Darling and our ultimate destination:  Baia Restaurant, one of our favorite places to eat Italian food.  As we were eating, the rain began just sheeting down, so we were fortunate to be under cover and just able to watch.  The pizzas and calamari were delicious (as usual) and it seemed like it was expensive, but when converted to US dollars (1 dollar = 1.5 Aus dollars) it wasn’t so bad.  

We finished dinner at about 8:00 and the regular Saturday night fireworks didn’t begin until 9:00, so we went on a Tim-Tam hunt.  If you’ve never had Tim-Tams, you should check out the cookie section of a large supermarket.  They’re one of Australia’s prize products, and we usually buy them in whatever Australian port we find ourselves.  The interesting thing was that the cookies we bought in 7-11 were $4.50 a package, but when we got to Woolworth’s (yes, they still have them here), they were on sale for $1.76, so that’s where we stocked up.  

By the time we returned to Darling Harbour, the fireworks (and the rain) had begun.  We 

watched what we could and then it was time to return home to the Amsterdam.  As an aside, whenever we’re in port, there’s a large sign raised on the side of the ship which says “Welcome Home,” and it really feels like it.  When we returned to our cabin, I checked my IPhone and it said that I had walked 7.8 miles - just reading that made me tired.  

* * * * * * *

Sunday was almost as busy as Saturday.  We met our usual partners in crime, Rich and Ginni, took the shuttle to Darling Harbour, the ferry to Circular Quay, and then a ferry to Manly Beach watching the beautiful sailboats as we crossed.   I know that it’s Bondi Beach which gets all the press (and the tee-shirts), but we much prefer Manly (and not just for the name).  We love the incredibly long stretch of pristine white beach, the surfing contests (one was going on yesterday), the Corso, a super-wide pedestrian-only street which leads one from the harbour to the beach, and Hugo’s, our favorite harbour-side restaurant.  That was our first stop, where we had pretty much a reprise of last night’s dinner.  We shared pizzas and calamari and enjoyed a beautiful view.  The place was packed, as it is almost every Sunday, and we were lucky to get a table without a reservation.  

Then we proceeded down the Corso, peeking into the restaurants, grocery shops, pharmacies and surf shops as we continued toward the beach.  That’s where we discovered that, like last year, the annual Manly surfing contest was going on, so we watched for awhile before heading back to our ferry.

Since we had a 5:30 all-aboard and a 5:00 last shuttle, we hastened aboard the ferry to Circular Quay and then the shorter one to Darling Harbour, where we found our shuttle back to the ship,and arrived in plenty of time.  We were even early enough to get ready for the 5:30 sailaway, where the hors d’oeuvres consisted of about six different kinds of cheese as well as almost unlimited oysters.  I’m not a fan, but those around me were really happy with the shellfish and gobbled them down.  

It was nice to be back at the table for dinner, and even nicer that it was a “set the clocks back an hour” night.  We skipped the show and went to sleep early, doing our best to make up for two incredibly active days, miles upon miles, and meal after meal.  Now, as I sit at the table in the library across from my library friend Frances, it seems as though I may actually have recovered.  

Friday, March 6, 2020

At Sea en route to Sydney

At last year’s Captain’s Dinner in The Pinnacle, we were fortunate enough to be seated with the captain and, since this particular dinner was the last of twelve, we offered the opinion that Captain Jonathan must be quite ready to be finished with this particular part of his responsibilities.  He agreed wholeheartedly, at which time John suggested that it might be a good idea to have one big, elegant dinner in the dining room, call it “The Captain’s Dinner,” serve wonderful food and include lots and lots of free wine.  I guess there was conversation with Seattle about how much money was lost in The Pinnacle ($90,000) and, presto change-o, the Captain’s Dinner this year was held last evening in the Dining Room.  We don’t know if it had anything to do with John’s suggestion, but I’d like to think so.  

It seemed as we entered the Crow’s Nest before dinner that everyone had worn their very best outfits, from ball gowns to Armani tuxedos to colorful kilts.  Since there were dinner seatings at 5:30 and 7:30 (and we were to attend the latter one), we all headed for the dining room where there was a 15-minute delay while the first seating finished and the tables were reset.  One thing we noticed was that all of the ladies who host in the Dining Room wore beautiful black dresses.  We knew from Josephine, the evening dining room hostess, that she had gone shopping in Auckland to find “the perfect dress.”  Isn’t that what every woman looks for?

We were fortunate enough to have Henk Mensink, the Hotel Manager, host our table.  He and his beautiful wife Crystal are friends from our first WC in 2008 and we always get along well.  Henk usually sits with us at least once during the cruise, and we were quite honored that it was such a special night to have him join us. 

The dinner began with a cocktail called a Pear Blossom Martini.  My first glance at the glass made me think of a lava lamp, because there were small green bubbles floating up to the top.  Henk told us they were pear-infused vodka inside of an edible “skin.”  The rest of the drink consisted of lychee nectar, sugar syrup and a topping of sparkling wine.  For someone who doesn’t usually have cocktails, this one was pretty good.  

The two wines chosen for the dinner were Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and Decero Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina.  Jacques had told us that these were new wines that were previously unavailable on the ship but had been ordered specifically for the Captain’s Dinner.  I stuck with the Sauvignon Blanc and found that it quickly went to the top of my “favorites” list.  

Since all elegant meals must have an amuse bouche, and since ours was even better, we had three.  There was a little glass container with asparagus panna cotta, a thin slice of cucumber filled with crab, and a “mojito sphere.”  That last one was interesting.  It was another one with a “skin” around a liquid that tasted like a mojito.  

For our first course, there was a choice between tiger prawns and a “sprouting salad of baby beets.”  Since the second involved goat cheese, I opted for the prawns.  A green pea soup was the next course, followed by a choice of “New Zealand Sea” or “New Zealand Land.”  The first had a fish filet, scampi and oysters, while the second had a rib-eye filet, crispy sweetbread, and short rib terrine.  I had the fish, but the “Land” looked great too.  For the vegans among us, there was an option of fava bean-stuffed mushrooms.

As a dessert course, the choices were Manuka honey custard with ice cream and lemon curd or New Zealand artisan cheeses.  Since it’s Lent and I’m not eating sweets, I opted for the cheese plate, which was delicious.  

We loved the entire experience, and felt like we had dined in a five-star restaurant.  Virtually everyone we spoke to said pretty much the same thing, and I think that almost everyone thought this was a dinner worthy of being called “The Captain’s Dinner.”  

Tomorrow is Sydney, and everyone’s pretty excited about it - especially as it’s the beginning of our two-and-a-half week tour of coastal Australia.  There’s rain forecast, but what the heck - it’s going to be warm rain!

Thursday, March 5, 2020

At Sea en route to Sydney

After the announcement of our itinerary change eliminating Indonesia and Singapore, I heard that some folks were running a pool to bet on what, if any, further changes would

be coming along.  Well, today we had the answer.  The captain made his usual mid-day announcement of speed, temperature, water depth, and so on.  Then he added information that got everyone’s attention:  the newest changes in our itinerary. 

Apparently the government of Sri Lanka is refusing to let any cruise ships dock, so that knocks out Hambantota and Colombo.  Then, since HAL was unable to have the Indian government secure a “blanket visa” for a three-day visit, the Mumbai stop was also cancelled.  The question, of course, is “where do we go now?”  We’re now going to have an in-depth cruise around Australia.  After Darwin, instead of heading to Sri Lanka, we sail down the West Coast, visiting Broome, Exmouth, Geraldton, and Fremantle (for Perth) in Australia.  

After visiting more of Australia than any of us have ever seen, we then enjoy seven sea days across the Indian Ocean and stop at La Possession, Reunion, a French territory that we enjoy because of the wonderful food.  Then we continue on our previously scheduled changes, to Praslin and Victoria in the beautiful Seychelles.  

So, folks, that’s the current update.  After these new changes, we hope that will be it, but we’ll just “go with the flow.”   We’re looking forward to seeing places in Australia that are new to us, and even Greg and Heo, our Aussie friends, said that it will be great to see parts of their own country to which they’ve never traveled.  

Wednesday, March 4, 2020

Waitangi, (Bay of Islands), New Zealand

New Zealand continues to enchant.  Today we called at the “birthplace of New Zealand.”  In 1840, representatives from the British Crown and over 500 Maori chiefs met in Waitangi and signed the Treaty of Waitangi, which ceded rights to the land over to the British.  Unsurprisingly, this treaty is still controversial today.  The Treaty Grounds is a fascinating place to visit and a beautiful place for walking.  The attractions there include a meeting house and an ornately carved shelter holding a Maori war canoe.

This is a tender port (not my favorite), but riding across the bay does let one see and appreciate the beauties of the aptly named Bay of Islands.  The skies were raining down on the area just before we went ashore, but the locals welcomed it, since they had seen no precipitation in 40 days.  Sounds almost biblical, doesn’t it?  

We boarded the tender just as the rain stopped and the sun came out, leaving some beautiful clouds in the area.  We landed in Waitangi, where a shuttle bus took passengers to the town of Paihia, but we decided that we’d just walk there, about a half hour stroll away.  Halfway through our walk, we were very sorry we’d dressed for rain, since the sun raised the temperature into the high 70’s, but we soldiered on.

Paihia is a lovely little town and apparently a popular vacation spot for people from other parts of New Zealand.  This, of course, is another place I’d be happy to live, and the water views from the houses and condos on the hills are spectacular.  However, it’s not to be, but I can certainly appreciate it while I’m here.

On ship days, the village green hosts a craft market where passengers can buy anything from merino wool-knitted items to Maluca honey to cute little outfits for one’s favorite grandchildren to some lovely jewelry.  We walked up Williams Road, the main street of the town and ended at a very small storefront which sold coffee and ice cream.  That made both of us happy, as I had a cappuccino and John had a Hokey Pokey ice cream cone.  In case you’re curious, that particular flavor is vanilla ice cream with chunks of honeycomb.  I guess it’s quite popular here, and we’ve even had it on the ship a time or two.  

Then it was time to walk back to the tender, since the last one was at 3:30 and sailaway was at 4:00.  The temperature had climbed into the 80’s, so we were very glad to get to the ship and its air conditioning.  We’ve enjoyed a lovely day but after three port days in a row, we’re more than ready for our two sea days en route to Sydney.

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Auckland, New Zealand (Day 2)

Not only do I love New Zealand, I am particularly fond of Auckland.  It’s a city of about a million (but, sadly, no sheep), and everyone I’ve come across is friendly and willing to be of help to a poor, uninformed tourist.  There is one thing I particularly like here.  At least two major intersections have something that I think should be found more often:  cars first drive from one direction, and then cars may drive from the other direction, and then a little green “walking man” appears and pedestrians may walk in any direction, including diagonally to reach the other side.  I know, simple minds, simple pleasures, but it does seem to be an excellent idea.

Our goal this morning, and it seemed a simple one, was to take all the loot for the “care package” to the post office, box it up and send it to our kids.  Simple it wasn’t.  The locals in the terminal told us that the post office was up Queen Street (the main shopping street) and then to the left.  We walked up and down that “left” for awhile before we popped into a souvenir shop, where the young lady behind the counter told us that it was actually several blocks up Queen Street, and then would be found behind the municipal theatre.  We’re pretty good at following directions, so we walked all the way up, as directed, turned right, walked behind the theatre, and found the post office - with a sign in the door that said February 29 would be its last day.  I walked around back to see if I’d missed anything, and found a gentleman loading mail into a truck.  When I asked him if there was a new location, he told me that we should walk back down Queen Street and turn on Victoria Street (which I knew well from the Starbucks on the corner).  

I realized as we walked away that he hadn’t told me which way to turn, so after about a quarter mile in one direction, we went the other way and almost gave up until I went into a 7-11 store.  The clerk told me we were going in the right direction and that we needed to walk four more (loooong) blocks, turn right, and we’d find it.  Eureka!  It worked, but I didn’t know if my legs would.  This “simple” task had taken us two hours and about two and a half miles.  You’ll be happy to know that the “care package” is on its way and should arrive early next week.

After a quick trip to a small supermarket, we headed back to the ship to stow our goodies, and then headed out for lunch.  We do love to try new restaurants in ports, and today John was dead set on going to a Mexican restaurant.  Usually we have a rule that good Mexican food cannot be found outside of California, the Southwest, and Mexico, but he insisted on trying Frida, a new restaurant on the harbor which had only opened three months ago.  Surprisingly, it was excellent.  We had tacos, John with fish and mine with chicken, along with chips and salsa (they weren’t complimentary like they are at home).  John enjoyed a Paloma, which we were told is more the Mexican national drink than the Margarita, and I enjoyed Sangria.  

It was finally time to head back to the ship, since all-aboard had been changed from 5:30 to 4:00 to accommodate the monthly safety drill.  Our friends Oliver, Josephine, and Joel were in charge of welcoming any new passengers or crew, and then to take their temperatures.  They wore masks and were very serious about their jobs.  It was a wonderful two days in Auckland, and tomorrow is another New Zealand port, Waitangi, sometimes called The Bay of Islands.  We’re really looking forward to it.  

Monday, March 2, 2020

Auckland, New Zealand (Day 1)

I love New Zealand and I could move here in a nanosecond.  Unfortunately, the government prefers immigrants who are under 55, and we haven’t been there for quite some time.  We’ve been to several NZ ports and driven around the countryside, and it really reminds me of where we live in Central California - except with a lot more sheep.

There are slightly more than four million people here and twenty million sheep.

After we docked today, our merry band of travelers met to take a ferry to Devonport Village, a ten-minute ride away.  Since the ferry terminal is right next to the ship, it didn’t take a lot of effort to get there.  We’ve been going to Devonport for three visits now, primarily to visit The Patriot, a charming pub which serves wonderful green-lipped mussels.  

When we arrived at the village, we split up, John and I to find a tasty cappuccino and the others to stop in at the Salvation Army store and then the art supply store which we had discovered last year.  Our coffee stop, Manuka (named after the local honey)  enabled us to actually access real internet, and I was able to take care of a couple of errands on my phone.  

After the coffee stop, we headed to Mt. Victoria, which is called a mountain but is actually more of a hill.  It provides a good hike, though, and once at the top we enjoyed some beautiful views of the harbor, the ocean, and a few of the islands nearby.  

We all met at the pub at noon to sit in the back garden and have some great food.  John and I shared fish and chips, while Rich, Ginni, and Leslie shared fish and chips, an order of cheesy bread (delicious!), and an order of calimari.  Later we were joined by Greg and Heo as well as Alan and Sandra and, as usual, a good time was had by all.  We missed our friends Bill and Jane, though, since they were here with us last year.

Then it was time for us to get the next ferry back to the city so we could go on a hunt for the proper band to alleviate John’s tennis elbow pain while he plays paddle tennis.  We found a couple of possibilities, so we’ll check them out online and make a decision tomorrow.

On last year’s cruise, we met Tim, the Sanitation Officer, and the three of us really got along well.  This year, as a response to one of John’s FB posts, Tim’s wife Sharon replied and asked if we could get together while in Auckland.  We were pleased to do so, and at 3:00 this afternoon we met up with Tim, Sharon, and their two kids as well as Robert, one of the engineers on board.  After chatting for a bit, we headed down to a harbor-front pub (we do spend time elsewhere sometimes) for a beverage and a nice long chat.  It turns out that Tim was supposed to board today, but apparently there was a glitch and he’s still waiting for his assignment - with suitcase packed.  

After a bit of a rest, we headed out for dinner and ended up at (wait for it . . . ) a pub named O’Hagan’s, where we’ve visited a few times in the past.  It’s quite casual, right on the water, and the food is great.  After eating, we walked some more and, as of right now (at 9:00 PM) I’ve put in 10 miles today, according to my I-Phone app.  

Tomorrow’s activities are yet to be decided, but I’ll fill you in on them later.  

Sunday, March 1, 2020

At Sea en route to Auckland, New Zealand

These two sea days have been an interesting transition from our time in Polynesia.  The temperature and the humidity have been decreased while the ocean remains beautiful and the sky contains just enough clouds to make it photogenic.  The sunrises and sunsets are gorgeous, including the photo I’m going to (try to) upload of an incredible sunset.  

I’m being optimistic and trying to include a few photos from Tonga, as well as Mardi Gras and last evening’s formal (whoops, gala) night.  We’re all being hopeful that the internet will improve, and today’s post will show me whether it will or not.  

Today was a Sunday at sea, and that means Sunday brunch.  I understand that there are four rotations of menu, and today it was back to number 1.  Each of three plates has six or seven tiny little bites of heaven, one plate cold, the next hot, and the last dessert.  Six of our group of eight met, and it’s funny to watch us trade little bites.  While I love deviled eggs and don’t like smoked salmon, Ginni is just the opposite, so we traded.  Speaking of (grilled) salmon, I’ve been ordering it at dinner about twice a week and it has been wonderful.  Indy, our waiter, told us that HAL switched suppliers and whoever they use now gets two thumbs up.  

We have few specific plans for Auckland for the next two days, but one visit we always enjoy is the town of Devonport, a short ferry ride away.  Ginni has an art supply store that almost makes her salivate, and after wandering the streets for awhile, we head to The Patriot, a wonderful pub where we can sit outside and order “heaven in a bucket.”  They have the most delicious green-lip mussels which put our West Coast mussels to shame.  They’re called that because the dark shell has a green border at the top, and the size of each mussel varies from huge to enormous.  Can’t wait!

P. S.  Only two would upload - so much for optimism.  I'll try the rest at Starbucks in Auckland tomorrow morning.  

Friday, February 28, 2020

The Kingdom of Tonga

Get yourselves comfortable, because there’s a lot to write about.  First I’ll start with our activities in Tonga.  We’ve been here a few times before, once to take a taxi tour around the island and usually just to wander the town, the last time discovering a nail salon which did pedicures without a drop of water - really!  Needless to say, it wasn’t my favorite pedicure.  This time we decided we wanted to get off the island, and the tourist office’s suggestion was a small motu (not quite an island) about 7-8 minutes offshore.  It turned out to be almost a  two mile walk to the “ferry” which would take us there.  The ferry turned out to be a small wooden boat with a row of seats on each side, some of which actually were padded.

The tourist office fellow told us that “ferries” left at 9:00, 10:00 and 11:00 and returned at 1:00, 2:00, and 3:00.  I guess there was an error in communication, because when we arrived at the boarding spot, it said that the boat left at 11:00 and returned at 4:00.  With a 4:30 all-aboard time, that wasn’t what we wanted to hear.  John and I and our new friend Lori hung around for more than an hour and, when the pilot showed up, we negotiated to have him bring us back at 3:00 (for only an extra $5.00 per person).  The transportation, which included lunch on the motu, cost $60.00 each (Tongan), which turned out to be $24.00 US.  We thought that was a pretty good deal, so we signed up.

There was no way that this could be called a resort; it was a tropical building with a covered “dining area” and a short dock over some beautiful blue-green water filled with colorful fish. About a hundred feet from the dock is a shipwreck which was named Pangaimotu (the name of the motu), and subtitled “Big Mama Yacht Club.” We spent the time swimming, lying in the sun, chatting, and having lunch - a choice of fish and chips, cheeseburger, or grilled teriyaki chicken sandwich.  After John walked the circumference of the island, which took about 45 minutes and I had a bit of a nap, the three of us decided we really wanted to return about 2:00, which in island time turned out to be about 2:30.  It was a wonderful, relaxing day, and the transportation, lunch, and three beers (one for me, two for John) cost the grand total of $71.00 US for both of us, a whole lot less than the kayak trip over with lunch that the ship sold for $139.95 each.  

When the little boat unloaded us at the dock, we decided to walk back to the ship, and what had been a nice warm walk at 10:00 was a hot and humid walk at 2:30.  A short nap prepared me for a lovely sailaway at 4:30, and then the fun began.

A few days ago, someone (who shouldn’t have said anything) told us that the Indonesian ports and Singapore were going to be cancelled because of coronavirus (COVID-19) and our itinerary would be significantly changed.  During sailaway, Captain Jonathan made that announcement and told us that we would receive letters in our cabins explaining the situation and providing the new itinerary.  

At this point (and we’d be willing to bet there will be more changes), we will finish our Australian ports at Darwin, on the north coast, and then proceed directly west for seven

sea days (oh my!), before calling at Hambantota, Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon).  We’ve been told by a friend that there’s basically nothing there but a container port, but the captain told John and I that it’s close to the largest leopard sanctuary in the world.  Then we proceed to Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka, before having two sea days en route to Mumbai (Bombay), where we’ll spend three days.  I do love Mumbai, but John’s already talking about contacting our Indian travel agent for an overnight at a nearby spot - but we don’t know where.  

Since the Maldives will no longer accept cruise ships, it was cancelled, and we’ll have another four sea days to Praslin, Seychelles.  We’ve been told by friends who’ve been there that it is an absolutely gorgeous spot with one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.  Then we proceed to Victoria, Mahe, Seychelles (where everything is beautiful) for two days.  

The other port which will be eliminated is Mombasa, Kenya, because of serious threats of terrorist activity toward western tourists and safari groups.  Because of that, after Victoria and two sea days, we’ll have two days in Zanzibar and then resume our prior itinerary.  

Most passengers seem to be quite understanding about the changes, realizing that with a disease on the verge of becoming a pandemic, the safest place to be is on a cruise ship (unless it’s quarantined) and there really is no choice about places that have to be cancelled.  However, there are always the angry few who are incredibly resentful and act as though their plans are more important than the health and safety of about 2000 passengers and crew.  Apparently some of that latter group started talking about just flying to Indonesia and/or Singapore, after which we received a card saying that anyone who left the ship to visit those places would NOT be allowed to rejoin the cruise.  That’s all we need:  someone to go off the ship, pick up the virus, and return to infect many of us who remained.  It seems the height of selfishness to me.  

The group for whom I feel the most sympathy is the Indonesian crew, most of whom had planned to see their families during our port calls.  The Balinese crew had been especially looking forward to an overnight call there, allowing them to go home for a longer visit, but it is not to be.  Since Auckland is the end of the second segment, we plan to be especially generous with our segment tips.  

For the two of us, we’re just glad that our health and safety are foremost with HAL, and while I will miss Singapore, It’s far more important that we’ll all be healthy and cozy on our beautiful little ship

P. S.  The upload gods are with me, so I posted the photos from Papeete.  The two ladies with me are the mayoral candidate and her campaign chair.    

Thursday, February 27, 2020

At Sea en route to Tonga

Well, it happened.  We went to bed on Tuesday, February 25 and woke up on Thursday, February 27!  It was just like magic and suddenly it was “Ash Thursday.”  Really, though, it’s always fascinating to me how the International Dateline works.  As Captain Jonathan explained, when Ferdinand Magellan’s crew arrived home after circumnavigating the globe (without Magellan, as he had been killed somewhere along the way), they discovered that they were a day “off” on their calculations and that began the realization that there were what we now call “time zones.”  The earth, as you probably know, is divided into 24 time zones, but at one point, which we just crossed, they back up to each other and we lose a whole day, or conversely, if we’re sailing eastbound, we gain a whole day.  

In 2010, on our only eastbound world cruise, our friend Rene, the spa manager, had her birthday on the day that was repeated.  She was soooo excited about having “two” birthdays, but at the end of the second day, she said, “I don’t think I ever want to have another birthday.  I’m exhausted from all the celebrating!”  She and I were talking this morning about the people on board whose birthdays are on February 26 and who didn’t get a birthday at all this year.  

Last night was Mardi Gras, and everything was green, gold, purple, and sparkling.  The dining room waiters wore sequined vests in those colors as well as jesters’ hats.  At each place at each table we found beads and sequined masks.  We wore the beads, but masks at dinner aren’t terribly comfortable, so they were put aside for our “care package” to send to our granddaughter from Auckland.  

After dinner, instead of going to the show, we headed up to the Crow’s Nest, where there was a “bead party.”  In addition to the beads from the dining room, we were treated to several more strands, until I felt like I could hardly hold up my head.  The Station Band was playing great rock and roll dance music, the room was crowded, and hors d’oeuvres were being passed by crew members.  We chatted with friends and danced.  When the band played “Play That Funky Music, White Boy,” John’s favorite dance song, he was a happy camper.  Unfortunately they skipped my favorite, “Old Time Rock and Roll,” but perhaps another night.  

Since today was “Ash Thursday,” there was an ecumenical service at 10:00 in the Mainstage.  The room was almost full, and the minister and priest conducted a moving service, followed by the application of ashes to our foreheads.  Congregants left quietly, feeling, I think, like they had had a significant beginning to the season of Lent.

Today has given us absolutely perfect weather and seas.  It’s about 80 degrees, there are light winds, and the sea is so calm as to almost look like little hills when we look at it.  When John and company played paddle tennis, he said that wind was basically non-existent.  This is one of those days when you hardly feel that you’re on a ship.

Tomorrow is Tonga, a port we’ve visited and enjoyed a couple of times.  The people are friendly, the ocean is warm, and we’re really looking forward to it.  

P. S.  The photos are from our Pitcairn Island Day.  They loaded quickly - one of the great mysteries of life.  

Tuesday, February 25, 2020

At Sea en route to Tonga

It’s always nice to have guests at dinner, and last night was no exception.  Our guest was a young Dutchman named Denis (yes, that’s the spelling) who happens to be the son of Philip Stolte, the Restaurant Manager.  Denis, who is studying hotel management in Holland, usually sails a segment of the world cruise with his dad, and his mom comes on as well, but often their schedules don’t allow them to come together.  We’ve known Denis for a few world cruises, and last year when he mentioned that he and a buddy would be driving through the United States, including most of the California coast, we invited him to stop and stay with us.  He called  one day and said that their schedule was rushed and they wouldn’t be able to stay the night, but they’d like to come by on Saturday to say hello.  Coincidentally, that was the day that John’s family reunion was taking place in our backyard, and even though we warned Denis, he came anyway.

Denis and Sven (a nordic name for a Dutchman, right?) came by and spent most of the day.  They charmed everyone and had, according to their account, a wonderful time.  They finally left at about 5:00, headed to San Francisco.  John suggested that they not miss a chance to drive up Highway 1, and if you’ve done that, you’ll understand why.  It’s one of the most scenic highways in the country, sitting atop cliffs that go down hudreds of feet into the ocean.  Because of their route, they didn’t get to San Francisco until almost midnight, but Denis told us last night that it was the most beautiful part of their entire trip. He’s a delightful young man and we always enjoy his company.  

Today is Mardi Gras, or “Fat Tuesday.”  That means that tomorrow will be Ash Wednesday, right?  Wrong!  We’re in that part of the world where we cross the International Dateline, so we lose Wednesday and skip directly to Thursday.  In church on Sunday, the minister announced that Ash Wednesday services would be held on Thursday, at which point everyone directed puzzled looks at him.  He explained that this would be a once in a lifetime experience, since Ash Wednesday didn’t happen, so we would celebrate Ash Thursday.  An interesting concept, but I’m sure many will be there.  

Regardless of the absence of Wednesday, today is still Fat Tuesday, and there will be a “bead party” in the Crow’s Nest after dinner.  I’ve just spent some time speaking with Thomas, the Assistant Cruise Director, and he promised that even though we’ll arrive late, he’ll save some beads for me.  With that to look forward to, how could anything be better?  

Monday, February 24, 2020

Rarotonga, Cook Islands

Yesterday was John’s birthday, and considering that he really doesn’t like birthdays or to be the center of attention, he was a very good sport.  After I posted a picture of him in his Cub Scout uniform to wish him a happy birthday, Facebook filled up with greetings from near and far.  Friends stopped him during the day to extend greetings, and Rich and Ginni hosted a birthday cocktail party in their suite, where I think a good time was had by all.  By John’s request we just had dinner at our regular table, but when the birthday cake arrived, it came accompanied by about twenty waiters who sang our favorite Indonesian birthday song.  I always sing along, but one of these days I’m going to have to learn the actual words.  

The South Pacific continues to enchant.  What’s to complain about when you’re on an island surrounded by a sapphire-blue lagoon and centered by a dormant volcano dressed by nature in vibrant green.  The weather here is warm year round, and those characteristics draw visitors from all over, but primarily from New Zealand and Australia.  

If you want to take a look at the whole island, as we did, you just jump on the bus and, in 55 minutes (more or less - island time, you understand), you have circled the whole thing.  

The people are extremely friendly and anytime we had a question, they were happy to give us directions, send us to the local Vodaphone for an internet card, or whatever we needed.  We wanted to go to the beach, but first we were going to see the whole island, so we bought our $5.00 NZ (about $3.50 US) tickets for the whole trip.  The foliage was beautiful, the houses were simple (but don’t need to include heaters), and in front of most houses were granite or marble graves of their family members.  The bus is very casual and it was fun to watch our driver wave at or shake hands with friends.  

When we returned to our starting point in the middle of town, it was time to call home to talk to our granddaughter, but after about 15 minutes we had to end the call fairly abruptly because our next bus was ready to leave.  We rode for about 25 minutes until we arrived at Muri Beach, more specifically the Muri Beach Resort.  I really don’t much like beaches because of the sand (sounds silly, I know), but if I get to a resort, as opposed to a public beach, there’s always a pool and a restaurant.  Generally, no matter how elegant the resort, if you go to the restaurant and buy lunch, they don’t mind if you use the facilities.  We’ve found this true (several times) at the Moorea Intercontinental Hotel, other resort hotels, and today at Muri Beach.  

We set ourselves up on the beach lounge chairs and then wandered into the almost body temperature water.  The only problem was that there were lots of rocks under the water and we’d forgotten our beach walkers.  Oh well, it was wonderful anyway.  Then we were getting hungry, so we wandered up to the bar/restaurant and had adult beverages and bar snacks (grilled calimari and chicken skewers) while we waited for time to catch the return bus.  

By the time we got off the bus near the tenders, it had begun to rain, but we ignored it and headed to the supermarket across the street where we bought treats to go with thank you cards for birthday gifts. Then we hopped on the tender and very shortly found ourselves back “home” on the ship.  It’s great that port nights are quite casual, but after the salt water and the rain, I’m really in need of a shower and hair wash.  I’d have loved to spend a week here, but that’s one of the only drawbacks to a cruise - only staying one (or two if we’re lucky) day in a place.  It does, however, show us where we’d like to re-visit, and this is one of those places.   

P. S.  I WILL get photos posted - hopefully in Tonga in a couple of days.  

P. S.  There was not an overnight in Tahiti (such a pity), and the Asian ports are still rather "iffy."