Dream T.A. Dec 2013; PoC Part 2

Havana

Hoorah! This was the big attraction for us in doing this itinerary and the sun was shining!!! Last time we visited Havana it absolutely threw it down for much of the first day (not that it stopped us getting out and exploring!). After hearing some alarming weather reports whilst we were on the TA leg about torrential rain in Havana which had people paddling through several inches of water, closed the Malecon (promenade) and brought down roofs, we were fearful that we would fall foul of the weather again – to say nothing about conditions such as those described would surely have prevented us from berthing! Anyway, it couldn’t have been better – although speaking with some locals apparently they had had five days of rain before we arrived! So very, very lucky – and thankful!

As Havana isn’t visited by American ships, it doesn’t have so many cruise ships calling and it does seem to be quite an event – many locals line the waterfront and wave as you depart! The Brits are very warmly welcomed – we were often asked where we were from and the response was very friendly - they like us but they said they wouldn’t be speaking to us if we were from that large, English speaking country to their North(!) :eek: Seems to be a lot of antipathy – but the upside for us is that it hasn’t been over-commercialised or changed to cater for a flood of tourists and you still have a feel of its history and glamour – albeit very faded in parts!

We changed some money at the exchange in the terminal – a slow and rather tedious process but as you can’t buy in advance you have little option. We were told that you could get money changed at banks or in hotels but every bank we saw seemed to have queues outside with people being allowed in one at a time, and someone told me the exchange rate in the hotel they went to was very poor. So probably best to just get it at the terminal.

We’d been to Havana before but elected to just explore again. We did get the HoHo (equivalent of about £3) from just outside the port. It seemed to be more of a hotel service but it did give us an over-view of the buildings around the centre of the city which I found very interesting as well as an opportunity to see Revolution Square (worth getting there on the bus as it’s a long walk) and a view of the huge cemetery from the top of the bus. It’s crammed with ornately carved monuments and is so big I was amazed. We got off again at the port after about an hour and a half.

I think there are two different routes though (but we couldn’t understand the timetable they gave us) as we later saw a HoHO in front of the Capitolio, which is the grand government building where we would have got off had our bus gone that way round. But no matter – where we were dropped off outside the port is right on the edge of the old town so you are there as soon as you exit the terminal buildings. We wandered back towards the Capitolio along cobbled streets soaking up the atmosphere with a call at Hemmingway’s favourite haunt en route.

There are loads of transport options. Immediately outside of the port are taxis including the American vintage ones, horse and trap, Coco taxis (three wheelers with like an open coconut shell surrounded double seat in the back), Tuk-tuks – and of course it’s also easy to just walk around – it’s a very compact area, much of it pedestrian only. (Look out for the bollards to prevent vehicle access – they are cannon barrels!!!!)

There are some magnificent buildings and wonderful architecture. It must have been quite something in its heyday but we found it still fabulous to wander round and see such fantastic buildings, courtyards, windows, squares, bars, cafes and little shops with locally produced items like wooden musical instruments etc. We just love soaking up the atmosphere - the faded elegance of the city is quite different from anywhere else we've been. Even the near derelict buildings have a fascination and charm.

It’s very cheap to buy drinks in the cafes but be aware of those selling cigars on the street. We were warned that they aren’t the real thing and I think they said it was illegal to buy them. You have to have a receipt for any purchased to go through security on your return to the ship. The duty free in the terminal of course sells the ‘official’ stuff. Going by the price of the rum, I guess the cigars would be a good price there but I know nothing of what the going rate would be.

You do get offers of help from locals when a little recognition is expected – but it’s a poor country, or at least many of the people are, so I suppose you can’t blame them. We ended up buying a Mohito for a girl who took us on a route march to find a post box! All part of the culture of the city! (For future reference there is one in the square opposite the port entrance!) Note: rides in the horse and traps., American taxis were really cheap on the last morning – we left at mid-day so I think they were trying to get the last bit of revenue they could so were offering good rates.

Since we had an overnight here many people went out into the old town at night where the live music from the hotels and bars create a great vibe. That's what we did the first time we went so this time we booked the evening excursion to the Tropicana. Well what a trip!!! Not cheap but definitely worth it - a great experience. We were told that someone had costed DiY on the Internet before going and the entry charge was as much as Thomson's trip without the taxi to get there and back (or ‘extras’ once inside) so although quite expensive, it was very reasonable.

It was an evening of Cuban music and dance performed under the stars - a real extravaganza with colourful costumes and a live band. What a fab atmosphere! It was like an amphitheatre with a circular stage and tables radiating out from the stage creating a semi-circle for the audience. We had good seats close to the stage but we were really crammed in! But we soon forgot about that.

On arrival ladies were given a carnation and gents a Havana cigar. The excursion guide also mentioned that a glass of sparkly wine and a 'bit' of rum were included. Bit of rum? What a strange description! So we were intrigued to discover what that entailed. Well we soon found out! We were given a can of (Cuban) coke - not American brands of course - and then.......... a 1Litre bottle of Havana Club rum between four of us!!!!!!!!!! Well, we did our best but were pleased to learn that we could take any left over back to the ship. We spotted some with very little in the bottom of their bottles getting back on the coach (smiling quite a lot!). Definitely a recommended excursion. People also seemed to enjoy the Parisienne trip too - that was an indoor venue.

We thought Havana was brilliant, but did hear one or two saying they didn't like it. I'm not sure what they were expecting, or whether they had based their opinions on trips they had taken out of Havana, but almost everyone we spoke to was bowled over by it – and we would love to go again.

When we went to Havana before, the money exchange in the terminal would only change back multiples of £20 and the exchange rate was poor so when returning to the ship on the first day, we checked out what was available in the duty free there. If we had less than £20 left we thought we'd rather spend up than waste it. So on the second morning we spent up except for about 7$ worth of cash. Well......in the duty free they had 70cl bottles of rum based liqueurs at 3.10 pesos (more or less equivalent to US$) We bought two, one of which we drank on board and it was delicious! It was Café, coffee flavoured, very smooth and 36° proof. Not bad at all! So my tip would be if you have some Cuban money left over, consider using it up in the terminal duty free. 1L Havana Club @7.90 (£5.50 - I’ve just looked that up and it’s £19 for 70cl on Amazon!) or any of the variety of liqueurs at about £2!!!!! We're looking forward to trying the second bottle!

Cozumel

Last time we went to Cozumel we went to the Tulum Mayan ruins on the mainland which we enjoyed. This time we thought we’d do a beach transfer but suffered from indecision when confronted by the many taxi drivers offering us various tours with ever changing prices as the discussions progressed. Again, the absence of any other ships was to our advantage – there were 4/5 ships in most every day before and after our visit. As most of these are American ships with large passenger loads, clearly our experience would have been very different both in the shopping/duty free area around the port and at other visitor sites. Lucky!

Anyway we were persuaded to take a taxi tour of the island (our friends plus another couple from the ship) for about 2 hours with a stop at the beach for as long as we wished at the end – cost 20$ p.p. The driver was very informative and showed us a local development for local poor people who were given by the authorities a small plot with electricity and water. They have to do something to improve it within six months to show good intent to develop the plot. It was fascinating to see the primitive huts made from fruit crates/anything which indicates they are doing their best. Of course they earn very little so it’s a very gradual process but many had progressed to breeze-block buildings about the size of a garage so they now had a home! It was quite moving to see their commitment and how they were doing their level best to improve their lot, slowly and with a great deal of hard work and patience! Good luck to them. Wages could be as little as 6$ per day! Of course the tourist industry is now essential to their economy as working in the fields for incredibly poor pay has more or less disappeared in favour of service industries – so not many pineapples produced now.

Anyway, back to our tour – we were taken to a Tequila tasting place. It was a very attractive restaurant and garden and we had quite a few samples. Of course they were hoping you’d buy but bottles but these were very expensive, about £30, so we passed on that. But it was quite interesting.

Then he took us to the Mayan Ruins on Cozumel at San Gervasio. Although the roads on the island are good this was 5Km of deep pot-holed surface which did bounce you around a bit – correction – a lot! It is the only access so it might be worth anyone with a bad back knowing beforehand! We had to pay an extra 8$ p.p. to get in here but having arrived it seemed the obvious thing to do. It was well maintained and quite interesting but the ruins were no way as impressive as Tulum (and I believe the Chichen Itza ones are better still – we heard some glowing reports of this excursion although it was a very long day). However we did enjoy walking round – we had about an hour there. It is a pleasant site but beware it is swampy off the trails and we did get lots of bites! Put the Deet on before you go!

Our driver then took us to the beach and wanted to give us an hour there but as we’d wanted a beach transfer in the first place, we said we’d prefer longer and agreed on a time with him – about 2.5 hours I think. The beach he took us to wasn’t the one I’d researched and had intended to go to but there was no charge for entry or furniture but we did buy drinks of course. It had loungers, chairs under thatched umbrellas, a bar and toilets. But it was a little undeveloped and the attendants weren’t prepared to let us put loungers under the thatched umbrellas as they had small tables and upright chairs where presumably they wanted you to sit and drink. Anyway we found some shade under some trees and after some discussion were allowed to put loungers there. There were plenty of loungers in the sun though. It was fine and we grew to like it as it seems fairly authentic and unspoiled although there seemed to be lots of biting insects here too. It had a more ‘primitive’ feel but if you wanted to go to a beach where you are sure to be able to get a beach umbrella with your loungers then I think it would be worth researching or trying to pin down a taxi driver before you agree to their choice of beach. But all in all we enjoyed ourselves - it was good value and we’d seen something of the island too.

There are different berths here for cruise ships – some a ten minute taxi ride out of the town but we were lucky and the town was in wlaking distance. We didn’t go there settling for finding a beer (and free WiFi) at one of the restaurants around the terminal. This is very Americanised and rather more expensive for cocktails etc than we’d been paying elsewhere but the beer wasn’t bad though so we had a cooling drink whilst we made use of the Internet connection.

We enjoyed our stay although it didn’t come up to the same heights as our previous ports of call. If it’s a first visit I think perhaps the ruins on the mainland are the highlight. I’d be pleased to learn of a really nice beach here though for future reference.

Gr Cayman

This is a tender port and because of the wave height the Captain decided it wasn’t possible or safe to attempt tendering. So unfortunately we had to miss this port but we sailed on arriving in Jamaica by late afternoon.

Jamaica

The distance of the port from the town of Montego Bay meant that it wasn’t possible to walk into the town and in any case I don’t think many people felt they wanted to go having some security reservations. The Destinations team did arrange a shopping trip to a mall and Hip Strip during the early evening. Quite a few people went but we didn’t. Someone told me the shops only had the same things as those in the terminal building (there are a few souvenir type shops there) so I don’t know how good that was.

As we had arrived early we were able to have the choice berth by the terminal. We went into the terminal after an early evening meal and met some people who were returning from a trip out to a local bar [boat on the water – they said something about being pulled across in ferry and looking at lobsters through the glass floor(?)]. They were waxing lyrical about it. It sounded very tempting and we decided to go with another group of four people who were doing the same thing. But…………after leaving the security of the compound and security staff, walking along a road with no pavements in the dark I got jittery. It was taking longer to get there than I’d hoped and as I wasn’t sure how much further it was we turned back. I was just too nervous but wished we had gone especially since the next day I spotted the very kind people who had been very encouraging and welcomed us into their group to walk to the bar – so they’d got back safely after all! If they happen to read this – thank you so much you were so understanding and supportive. Sorry I was such a wimp!

We’d changed berth overnight to accommodate a Carnival ship so we had a complementary shuttle just as far as the terminal then we picked up the proper shuttle bus to the town and beach (5$) – or a tour. Take care! As you get on saying you want the beach they say ‘Yes, yes’ but once they are full they set off with a guide who does their level best to persuade you to take a tour – with the beach at the end. But as with other stops we had a relatively early departure so we wanted to go straight to the beach. You have to be very insistent!! We did get dropped off at Doctor’s Cave Beach but some friends found themselves almost hi-jacked and on a tour before they knew it so they got to the beach much later.

We’d been to Doctor’s Cave before so knew what to expect 6$ each for entry and 6$ for lounger, 6$ for an umbrella. So 30$ in total – but it is a lovely beach and having got there early we were able to find a spot by the water. The sea was glorious – I have never, ever seen such crystal clear water and cocktails were good but more pricey than elsewhere. There are good facilities there too with restaurants on decks which looked very attractive. It got busy later and noisier especially when some groups from the Carnival ship arrived.

Interestingly I was chatting to some American ladies in the sea and this was their first port of call. After that they had Grand Cayman and Cozumel – then home! They asked where we had been and seemed never to have heard of Madeira or Lisbon and looked glazed when I mentioned Havana and the other islands we’d visited. I think they’d been looking at out little ship and feeling sorry for us – no need to thanks! They didn’t show any interest or ask anything else.

Friends who did the Dunn River Falls said what an amazing experience that had been. I think we’d try that if we ever find ourselves in Jamaica again.

Aruba

Well the last island before Barbados. Again an earlier departure than ideal (that was a drawback of this itinerary – but given the wonderful places visited and the distances travelled, it’s the price you pay). We weren’t in the most convenient berth which was occupied by a Princess and Holland America ship but it is walkable – we walked to the bus station just across the road from where you exit the port access but there was a complementary shuttle bus from the ship to the port gates. The bus (L10) signed ‘The hotels’ cost 2.30$ to anywhere along the strip – Eagle Beach to Palm Beach. We’d paid $35 for loungers and umbrella at Palm Beach on our last visit so took some advice from on here to try the Holiday Inn at the far end of Palm Beach.

We found the hotel area fine but the hotel was full so we weren’t allowed to use the sun shades! Fortunately we were offered some loungers (10$ for four) and found some tree shade to put them. Facilities were good here, There was a nice pool just behind us and excellent toilets. It was a very windy day though – but not cold and we were a bit exposed. There was nothing behind us to break the wind. Had we been prepared to sit in the sun we could have found more shelter from the hotel buildings. Anyway, we were able to relax, had a swim and watched an agile iguana climbing in the tree above us. But given our experience, it might not be altogether straight-forward being able to secure suitable beach furniture here and you would have to weigh up whether Palm Beach (by the Radisson) although more expensive might be a safer bet. We had a relaxing time though and caught the local bus back to give ourselves about an hour in Oranjestad to have a wander. It’s certainly worth a look around but we’d been before and as time was limited just browsed around the market on the waterfront and walked around the pink wedding cake confection shopping mall which has lots of designer shops and is very photogenic.

Barbados

There were a number of trips offered by Thomson for the last morning if you wanted something to do and your flight times allowed. Some people headed off to Carlisle Bay (good beaches here) but we decided to walk to Brighton Beach in the opposite direction, passing the Mount Gay Rum Distillery on the way. It wasn’t a good walk but having got so far we pressed on. We got to the near end of Brighton Beach (not far from the ship as the crow flies but quite a trek by road) and it is indeed a lovely bay but without any facilities we could see or much in the way of beach bars/furniture. It satisfied our curiosity as we had wondered if we were in Barbados for a day whether it was a beach worth going to but I’d say Carlisle Beach is much better and Accra better still – but that is much further out of Bridgetown and not walking distance.

After lunch on board we had to say farewell to the Dream – she’d carried us thousands of miles on a most memorable trip so we were quite sad. :( We were quite unsure of doing a TA but after this experience, I would consider doing another. We had a great time. :) ;)

Thank you so much. Really looking forward now to my second Dream Caribbean experience. Latin Gems means Aruba will be one of the new islands for us, and we are on serious countdown. You've given such a great account of your experiences.

Mrs Red Scorpion and I went to the Travel Agent's yesterday to book two weeks in the Carribean in 2015 with two days in Havana. Very interested to read your review but from what you say it sounds as though I will have to get Mrs Red Scorpion to feign laryngitis whilst there so that they don't spot her American accent. Though I had heard that Americans were quite well received in Cuba. Lots of Americans go to Canada before flying to Cuba so that the US Government don't know they are going and I am told that Cuban passport control are quite obliging and don't stand their passports.

The night out in the Tropican sounds fabulous. Cuba is famous for being a very musical country. I am looking forward to it already.

Funnily enough I heard someone ask a young man where he was from and he said Canada!!!! :D Now I wonder if that had been a convenient answer to the question? Of course much of the posturing might have to do with trying to flatter us, the British tourists, and make us seem especially welcome - there's no doubt they try to 'work' us. Perhaps it's the Germans or Italians they love when ships from those countries arrive! I wonder just how long that apparent attitude would last if and when the American tourists with their Dollars start flooding in! :rolleyes:

But I'm sure you and your wife will love Havana - it's really iconic and has such a lively, colourful and exciting feel to it. Enjoy!

Thanks so much for the brilliant review, Kruzseeka :)

As I look out of the window at the wind and sleet, I wish all the more to be back in the wonderful Caribbean :cool:

Thanks for the port review Kruzseeka, brightened up a miserable January morning :)

We never got as far as Brighton Beach, only to Brandon's beach. We found the lack of facilities nice, just us, beach towels and the locals. As you say, the walk isn't the nicest though.

Havana is great isn't it, we only did a quick day trip flying in from the Cayo's and felt we could have spent more time there. It's a shame so many of the buildings are in disrepair.

thanks for this kruzsee...fantastic review...I so miss havana and am so looking forward to going back next winter and have cut n pasted your review for reference

when we were there we changed a small amount of us dollars with the taxi driver....not sure if it was good rate or not? but were happy that it was going into the pockets of the locals if it wasn’t...... if i remember correctly $50 was enough for a few mojitos, a coco ride around town...oh and a handmade lace tablecloth?......(great tip btw on the duty free rum to use up those leftover cuba dollars)...cuban rum is the best in the world imo:cool:

we are also trying to research a nice beach on cozumel??...but the tequila tasting sounds right up my street;)

shame about gr cayman but tbh i dont think you missed too much in the town there....quite a pretty town but just a high end shopping mall and some americanised bars (hard rock cafe etc) we didnt venture out of town when we were there last...I do suspect however, that there must be some nearby glorious beaches (will check that out next time)

oh dear...yes...dont so many other ships passengers always feel so sorry for us poor thomsons....little do they know (taps nose):p;)

oops! forgot to ask this

were thoms destination services doing any 2 for 1 offers on shorex (debacle) this year?

haven't heard anything recently on this issue? so am assuming not??

oops! forgot to ask this

 

were thoms destination services doing any 2 for 1 offers on shorex (debacle) this year?

 

haven't heard anything recently on this issue? so am assuming not??

Hi geo - good to hear from you.:) Yes Havana was just everything we'd remembered and more! I was rummaging through the cupboards before Christmas (as you do trying to find out what's in there!) and found some Kahlua. That £2 bottle of Cafe liqueur tasted just the same to me! (I paid nearly £20 for that in a local wine store!!)

Can't advise on a good beach at Cozumel - ours was ok but I'd definitely try to get some more reviews on others. There are loads of taxis outside the port and they were pushing different tours/beaches etc and ever decreasing prices! (may be a different picture if you have loads of ships in though). If you have a short list of which beaches are recommended with furniture available then you'd be able to haggle for exactly what you want. Most taxi transfers would include the Tequila place if you want it though I feel sure.

Yes went to Gr Cayman before - like you not too impressed with the town - Diamonds International reigns again! I'm not enamoured of the very Americanised shopping experience style ports - much rather head out for a beach. There are some good ones along Seven Mile beach where we went last time - might be worth checking those out on here and with Destination Services to find one offering what you want. I think we went on the local bus.

And speaking of Dest Services - no hint of discounts or offers. :rolleyes:

Happy planning :) I'd go back to Havana anytime. Such a fab,fab, place!;)

Hi Geo, good to have you back safe and sound. hope you get the tree problem sorted without too much bother.

oh dear...yes...dont so many other ships passengers always feel so sorry for us poor thomsons....little do they know (taps nose):p;)

We had a comment like that on the last P&O cruise:

"Oh you were on that little Thomson thing behind us in Dubrovnik?"

Reply: "Yes we were, and we had around 5 hours longer in Dubrovnik too... we managed to get all the way to Cavat as well as explore Dubrovnik"

Can't wait for your comparison with the Ventura.

Try the Santiago rum in Cuba, it's what lot of locals drink rather than the Havana Club.