South America notes from 1/24/2005 sailing

[Blackrobe]

This certainly isn't a review but a quick overview primarily directed at excursions. The weather was very hot at the beginning and the end. It ranged from the upper 80s to the mid-90s. Obviously, it cools as you proceed South and then warms as you proceed North. The coldest weather was at Cape Horn when it was very windy, a very low cloud ceiling, it was difficult to know if it was raining a little or it was spray from the water. The temperature was in the low 40s. I used a a pretty good rain jacket with a light sweatshirt and a long sleeved shirt. I was comfortable. I had long underwear to put on if I needed it but I didn't use it. The weather at Cape Horn was rough but fairly mild compared to the severe weather that often appears at the Cape.

 

Once on the ship we had very few sunny days. However, we had no days of inclimate weather. Virtually every day was overcast with the threat of rain. There was a lot of wind. We made it into Stanley in the Falkland Islands but had to leave early because of projected high winds in the afternoon. We pulled into the bay at Puerto Montt but the seas were too rough to tender to shore so we skipped that port. This meant we had 5 straight sea days which became a little tedious.

 

We happened upon a guide who doubles as a driver in Santiago. His English is very good and his prices seemed fair. His name is Herbert Brasche and he can be reached at mbravo@cpt.cl or through his cell phone up to 7:00 p.m. Santiago time at 08-209 6680.

 

We didn't get there because we didn't land in Puerto Montt but Gail and Veronica Stein are a husband and wife team who were extremely accommodating and seemed to have an excellent tour at a very reasonable price. Their web site is www.gvtours.com. They respond very quickly to e-mails at gvstein@surnet.cl.

 

In Punta Arenas we took the Princess excursion to Estancia Fitz Roy. It was okay for what it was. If you are looking for a working estancia this is not the place. It is more like a living museum that is kind of interesting, touristy and schlocky all at the same time. It is a long ride to get there and there is way too much dead time. At one point we were standing around watching others on the excursion ride horses. For this I paid $120.00! It is not all bad. My criticism is that it was too long and too expensive. Punta Arenas has an interesting city square and some excellent restaurants for King Crab but there isn't much else in the town.

 

The Beagle Channel is simply outstanding!!! We were blessed with very good weather for cruising the channel.

 

Ushuaia (pronounced ush as in push without the "p", why, ahh) is pretty neat. It is a mix of town, tourist destination, and jumping off point for expeditions to Anarctica. We took the Princess excursion "Scenic Ushuaia & Mountain Drive". This excursion was exactly what it sounds like. We enjoyed it as we got to see the Southern Andes. The two other excursions we heard about from others were the wildlife cruise on the Beagle Channel and the excursion which took individuals to the train at the end of the world. It used to be an old prison train (Ushuaia used to be the Chilean equivalent of Alcatraz) but has been converted to a narrow gauge tourist train. Everyone I spoke to seemed to enjoy their excursion.

 

In Port Stanley we took the Princess excursion "Bluff Cove Penguin Rookery". You take a bus about 17 kilometers outside of town and each four people get into a 4 wheel drive SUV. There is a driver to take you across the bogs to get to Bluff Cove where the penguin rookery is located. The rookery had King and Magellanic penguins. We enjoyed the tour. By the way, there is a little trailer at Bluff Cove where some very nice ladies serve tea and coffee and have fantastic baked goods which they distribute without charge. They simply ask for a donation.

 

Puerto Madryn sits in a very desolate area. The guide we had arranged before hand through Cuyun Co Tourismo never appeared. We made alternate arrangements on the pier for a tour of Peninsula Valdes. The drive was forever with nothing much to see. We saw some native wildlife on the way - guanacos and rheas - but they didn't make up for the long, boring ride. We saw a small rookery of Gentu penguins and some seals that were sleeping on the shore. There may have been some elephant seals but we couldn't tell because they never lifted their heads. We turned around and drove back the same way we came. Others went to the Welsh village of Gaiman and enjoyed their time in the village. They also commented on the bleakness of the countryside. Puerto Madryn seems to be in the early stages of discovering itself as a tourist destination. We didn't have enough time to shop but there did appear to be a serviceable shopping district.

 

We took the Montevideo highlights tour due to the short time we were in port (7:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.) We were quite surprised by the size and sophistication of the city.

 

I hope this helps. I will be preparing a full review of our cruise after we get settled. We embarked in Buenos Aires. It was by far the worst embarkation we have ever experienced after 12 cruises and 9 of those on Princess. It was totally deplorable. Hours in line, total chaos, no one in charge and no one available to give any guidance or information. Pushing, shoving and several times face-offs occurred which almost came to fisticuffs.

[spongerob]

Thanks for the comments. It's nice to read about some of the unusual and exotic itineraries that are available.

[Druke I]

Also, thanks for the comments.

 

We are taking the trip 'round the Horn, on Regal Princess, Mar 06, and looking forward to it.

[DSavard]

Hi Bill. You always find the cool shore tours. Have you talked to Marv and Edie lately? What a wonderful couple! Cindy and me are leaving Feb. 27 for a week in AZ and then off on the Diamond March 5th. Can't wait!

 

So when's the next cruise?

 

Dave

BTW The glasses made it home safe and sound.

[pmcrusta]

Goes to show you how things can change from cruise to cruise. Last year we Boarded there and it was one of the best embarkations I'd ever had. Did the forms and the normal stuff. And we were on the ship in a half a hour. Never heard one complaint from others either. Had a experience like yours at San Francisco a couple years ago.

[c-ruisedaddy]

We did the reverse of your cruise on the Royal Princess back in 1999. Enjoyed the Falkland Island stop. We also took the bus trip to see the penguins at Punta Arenas. We had much better luck with the penguins then you did. Saw thousands of them and they didn't seem too concerned with humans. On the return trip we had a nice lunch at a ranch.

 

 

On one of our formal nights we rounded the horn. Funny thing, at such a unique spot most of the people chose to eat dinner rather then be out on deck between the tip so South America and Antarctica. The weather was wonderful (clear and around 65 degrees) made a nice photo-op in formal ware. The mountains of Ushuaia reminded us of the mountains of Modhar (sp) from the Lord of the Rings.