Buenos Aires Hop On Hop Off Self Tour and Tango Shows

[aquafemme]

My sister and I are doing a South America/Antartica Tour in February and will be spending a few days in Buenos Aires before sailing. Looking for some feedback on places.

 

We'll also be doing the Hop On Hop Off city bus tour one day there and I'm hoping to get feedback from anyone who has recently done it.

 

Regarding Hop On Hop Off City Tour Bus:

Is one day enough to see most of the sights?

How were the headsets--was the tour information audible and clear?

How was the comfort and ease of Hop On Hop Off?

Any tips/advice about touring this way?

 

We still haven't decided which Tango dinner show to see. We're thinking of either "Cafe de Los Angelitos" or "Esquina Carlos Gardel". Any feedback on these dinner shows would be appreciated.

 

Are there any afternoon Tango shows? Best places to see some street tango?

 

Don Julio or La Cabrera for Asado?

 

Eduardo Sívori Museum -- is it a Yea or Nay?

 

Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

[4774Papa]

We did not use the HoHo bus since the Metro system is so good and it is easy to walk the city.

 

We did take a great free walking tour.

 

www.bafreetour.com/english-home

http://buenosairesfreewalks.com/?gclid=CLPj-bP_trkCFS1p7Aodel8AKQ

 

We saw the Tango Porento show and it was fabulous. We had dinner before the show as well.

 

 

Tango Porteño

Cerrito 570, El Centro (next to Teatro Colon)

Tel 011 4124-9400

Dinner: 20.30 Show: 22.15 (90 mins)

http://tangoporteno.com.ar

[aquafemme]

We did not use the HoHo bus since the Metro system is so good and it is easy to walk the city.

 

We did take a great free walking tour.

 

www.bafreetour.com/english-home

http://buenosairesfreewalks.com/?gclid=CLPj-bP_trkCFS1p7Aodel8AKQ

 

We saw the Tango Porento show and it was fabulous. We had dinner before the show as well.

 

 

Tango Porteño

Cerrito 570, El Centro (next to Teatro Colon)

Tel 011 4124-9400

Dinner: 20.30 Show: 22.15 (90 mins)

http://tangoporteno.com.ar

 

 

Tango Porteno was another show we were considering. Good to know it was Fab and you enjoyed it.

 

The walking tour looks good too. Thanks for including the link. Much appreciated. :)

[dr__dawggy]

Don Julio or La Cabrera.

 

I have been going to Argentina regularly since August 2001. There have been several noticeable changes in food since then--restaurant offerings are more varied and many of the newer restaurants offering everything from Peruvian-Japanese fusion to Mexican food are surprisingly good. Traditional parrillas get mixed reviews--the wine is better and the meat is not as good on the whole

 

Wine. In the wake of an economic collapse in 2002 and a decision to drop the 1:1 peso to dollar, Argentine wine became more competitive on the international market. This helped transform the Argentine wine market, which had previously produced mostly average and below average wine for the domestic market. Wine for export required a better product. Many locally owned wineries were bought by international wine makers and the remaining locally owned wineries rethought their product....the result has been an across the board increase in quality of Argentina's wine, particularly its signature Malbecs.

 

Meat. For a host of reasons related to poor government policy regarding tariffs for export/imports, as well as changing international markets, the number of acres available for grazing has gone down as ranchers/farmers have switched from cattle production to tillable acres for crops such as soy. This has resulted in more beef finished in feed lots and less grass-fed beef available for domestic consumption. Argentina's renowned steaks now taste remarkably like steaks from most everywhere in the United States...except for the exceptions.

 

Last I heard both la Cabrera and Don Julio, along with a scattering of other parillas, still serve traditionally finished rather than feed lot beef. Now , which restaurant to try? Well, in my opinion both are very good. Unfortunately, while they are both good, neither is the "well kept secret" they were just a few years ago so both are likely to be crowded and difficult to get into....and you are as likely to hear customers chatting in English as in Spanish.

 

On my last visit, Don Julio's waiters had managed to retain their traditional high quality service....whereas la Cabrera's waiters had not. The word snooty comes to mind--impatient, rude and condescending. Maybe it was just a bad night, except I have heard the same thing from others.

 

On a plus note for La Cabrera (as well as its two twin restaurants in the same area), there is an 'early bird special" discount of 40%....early in Argentina means 7PM...the usual dinner time is after 8PM and some restaurants don't even open until 8 or 9.

Edited September 23, 2015 by dr__dawggy

[tartanexile81]

Another vote for walking in BA. We had an overnight there this year and spent our first day doing a tour with Buenos Tours and our second day just walking and re-visiting what we liked/ visiting some of the places our guide recommended. It is perfectly feasible to walk from the ship to the main square with the Pink House, Cathedral etc.

[karoo]

Don Julio or La Cabrera.

 

I have been going to Argentina regularly since August 2001. There have been several noticeable changes in food since then--restaurant offerings are more varied and many of the newer restaurants offering everything from Peruvian-Japanese fusion to Mexican food are surprisingly good. Traditional parrillas get mixed reviews--the wine is better and the meat is not as good on the whole

 

Wine. In the wake of an economic collapse in 2002 and a decision to drop the 1:1 peso to dollar, Argentine wine became more competitive on the international market. This helped transform the Argentine wine market, which had previously produced mostly average and below average wine for the domestic market. Wine for export required a better product. Many locally owned wineries were bought by international wine makers and the remaining locally owned wineries rethought their product....the result has been an across the board increase in quality of Argentina's wine, particularly its signature Malbecs.

 

Meat. For a host of reasons related to poor government policy regarding tariffs for export/imports, as well as changing international markets, the number of acres available for grazing has gone down as ranchers/farmers have switched from cattle production to tillable acres for crops such as soy. This has resulted in more beef finished in feed lots and less grass-fed beef available for domestic consumption. Argentina's renowned steaks now taste remarkably like steaks from most everywhere in the United States...except for the exceptions.

 

Last I heard both la Cabrera and Don Julio, along with a scattering of other parillas, still serve traditionally finished rather than feed lot beef. Now , which restaurant to try? Well, in my opinion both are very good. Unfortunately, while they are both good, neither is the "well kept secret" they were just a few years ago so both are likely to be crowded and difficult to get into....and you are as likely to hear customers chatting in English as in Spanish.

 

On my last visit, Don Julio's waiters had managed to retain their traditional high quality service....whereas la Cabrera's waiters had not. The word snooty comes to mind--impatient, rude and condescending. Maybe it was just a bad night, except I have heard the same thing from others.

 

On a plus note for La Cabrera (as well as its two twin restaurants in the same area), there is an 'early bird special" discount of 40%....early in Argentina means 7PM...the usual dinner time is after 8PM and some restaurants don't even open until 8 or 9.

 

Like-excellent informative post. What does the Argentinian wine approximately sell for in US dollars? (I'm not from the US, but I can mentally convert US dollars or euros more easily than any other currency.) I'm think of taking wine on board and just paying the corkage fee. (I apologise if I've gone off thread.)

[4774Papa]

Like-excellent informative post. What does the Argentinian wine approximately sell for in US dollars? (I'm not from the US, but I can mentally convert US dollars or euros more easily than any other currency.) I'm think of taking wine on board and just paying the corkage fee. (I apologise if I've gone off thread.)

We purchased some good table wine at a small grocery store in BA for about $4 a bottle. Wine is not expensive.

If you cruise on Celebrity, you can take two bottles at no charge when you embark.

[karoo]

I'm on Norwegian where you can take as much as you like, but you have to pay $15 corkage per bottle.

[dr__dawggy]

Jumbo is a local grocery store with a huge wine selection. They show prices on line. I just checked their selections.....

 

Most of the wines I have tried and enjoyed previously range from 132 to 375 pesos (on the blue market 1 dollar = 15 pesos). so the range is from 8 to 20 USD. As the previous poster noted, you can buy decent wine for less.

 

Among my preferences: Luigi Bosca Reserva, Achaval Ferrer Malbec, Catena Malbec DV, Saint Felicien Malbec or the Cab-Merlot blend, and Carmelo Patti Malbec (their champagne is very tasty too). If you can find virtually anything by Angelica Zapata on sale, go for it. One of the few wineries that actually does a good job with whites as well as reds.

 

For under 8 dollars a bottle, i like Santa julia Malbec Roble. Its a very drinkable table wine with beef. price is probably around 5 bucks. Postales del fin de Mundo is another inexpensive wine you might enjoy.

 

Even if you add a 15 dollar corkage fee you won't find comparable wines on board for the same price.

Edited September 24, 2015 by dr__dawggy

[Merlinite]

using blue dollars we bought some decent wines for under US$2-

 

it goes up from there, so for US$5+, you get better wine, or so they say, i wouldn't know ;)

[pickypicky]

"Last I heard both la Cabrera and Don Julio, along with a scattering of other parillas, still serve traditionally finished rather than feed lot beef. Now , which restaurant to try? Well, in my opinion both are very good. Unfortunately, while they are both good, neither is the "well kept secret" they were just a few years ago so both are likely to be crowded and difficult to get into....and you are as likely to hear customers chatting in English as in Spanish."

 

Thanks Dr. Dawggy for your well informed posts. Would you venture a suggestion for an up and coming (not so frequented by tourists) place that serves traditionally finished beef? We saw Don Julio on Andrew Zimmern last night...

[dr__dawggy]

"Last I heard both la Cabrera and Don Julio, along with a scattering of other parillas, still serve traditionally finished rather than feed lot beef. Now , which restaurant to try? Well, in my opinion both are very good. Unfortunately, while they are both good, neither is the "well kept secret" they were just a few years ago so both are likely to be crowded and difficult to get into....and you are as likely to hear customers chatting in English as in Spanish."

 

Thanks Dr. Dawggy for your well informed posts. Would you venture a suggestion for an up and coming (not so frequented by tourists) place that serves traditionally finished beef? We saw Don Julio on Andrew Zimmern last night...

 

I tend to go back to places I have tried and liked over the years, so i am less familiar with newer "up and coming" places. This article provides a pretty good overview of the meat scene in Buenos Aires. Two places not mentioned in the article that I especially like:

 

1880 Parrilla in San Telmo. Defensa 1665. A very traditional place with knowledgeable waiters and good grilled meat. The grilled provelta appetizer is excellent. Very crowded with local families on Sundays. I have been going there off and on since 2004 or 05 and never had a bad meal. Inexpensive yet tasty wine list. This is also a favorite of pmacher, who lives in BA and posts here regularly. I've never had it here but he raves about the suckling pig (not always on the menu).

 

El Establo Downtown, corner of Paraguay and San Martin. Sit downstairs for a more historic feel. Upstairs is more like a 1950's cafe, except for the hanging hams around the bar. Simple, good green salad tossed with olive oil, excellent steak and fries...or for an alternative, puree de calabaza (mashed pumpkin squash). Try a half order of steak unless you have a huge appetite. Servings are enormous here.

 

http://therealargentina.com/argentinian-wine-blog/meat-greet-the-best-steak-restaurants-in-buenos-aires/

Edited September 25, 2015 by dr__dawggy

[dr__dawggy]

using blue dollars we bought some decent wines for under US$2-

 

it goes up from there, so for US$5+, you get better wine, or so they say, i wouldn't know ;)

 

Brings back memories of 2 buck chuck at Trader Joes. :)

 

I checked on line prices at Jumbo. Call me a wine snob, but I could not find much for under two bucks that I would recommend. Now, if you could spring for between 3 and 4 dollars (45 to 60 pesos) there are some very decent table wines....and even more options between 4 and 5 dollars.

 

I am not sure what the wine list is like on other cruise lines but finding anything decent on Princess for less than 30 bucks a bottle is a challenge....and their wines go up quickly..so whatever price point you choose, you will get better wine for the money, even after the corkage fee.

[pickypicky]

Thank you for your recommendations...we will check at least one of them out!

[pmacher61]

Dr Dawg is a knowledgeable and well mannered fellow, but if I am not mistaken (and I often am), I think he has made one slight misstatement. Grass fed animals are typically put in feed lots about 30 days prior to being trucked to Mataderos for sale and butchering. In those 30 days the animal fattens up almost a kg/day so that the weight and price is that much higher at auction. That was how grass fed cows were "finished" until 15 years ago. I don't know if things have changed.

And, yes, fewer animals are raised on grass these days. They are shipped to feed lots at an early age soon after they don't need mama.

[dr__dawggy]

Dr Dawg is a knowledgeable and well mannered fellow, but if I am not mistaken (and I often am), I think he has made one slight misstatement. Grass fed animals are typically put in feed lots about 30 days prior to being trucked to Mataderos for sale and butchering. In those 30 days the animal fattens up almost a kg/day so that the weight and price is that much higher at auction. That was how grass fed cows were "finished" until 15 years ago. I don't know if things have changed.

And, yes, fewer animals are raised on grass these days. They are shipped to feed lots at an early age soon after they don't need mama.

 

You are right. Even back in the day cattle raised on grass were finished for 30 days or so in feed lots to add wght. This type finish also helps to marble the meat and to produce a better flavor meat. We have been buying grass fed beef here in the US from local ranchers(We live in Texas), and much prefer grass fed/grain supplemented beef to straight grass fed beef....better taste, not as tough....This flavor is still very distinct from cattle who spend longer periods of time in feed lots, where grain is often supplemented with hormones to further stimulate weight gain, a practice that further changes the flavor of the meat.

 

Sorry if we have hijacked the thread. Didn't mean to go so far afield into discussions of food and wine....

 

PMacher, do you still recommend 1880? Any thoughts about tango shows? I made the rounds to various shows a long time ago, but have not been in awhile now so I don't feel current enough to comment.

 

I agree with the earlier comment about bafreetours. They do a good job. Also whether from the HoHo bus or another guide, I like the idea of getting an overview, then going back to locations where you want to spend more time.

Edited September 26, 2015 by dr__dawggy

[pmacher61]

Last couple of tango shows I've attended within the past year were in Tango Porteno on Cerritos http://www.tangoporteno.com.ar/eng/index.html# and one of the shows offered at Centro Cultural Borges in Galleria Pacifico. Both were excellent, very strong dancers (many obviously had ballet training). Without the dinner package option these shows are very reasonably priced (US$15-20). Caveat: there are several different shows at the Borges center depending on the day of the week. I believe the one I saw was entitled Bien de Tango. It was the only one that had a large cast of dancers and singers. http://www.ccborges.org.ar/indexi.htm

 

Madero Tango in Puerto Madero was also good especially on the weekends when headliners like Raul Lavie perform. Drink package is about $US 25.

http://www.maderotango.com/en/

Occasionally, Torquato Tasso on Ave Defensa has interesting shows, more oriented to music and singing than dancing. http://torquatotasso.com.ar

At any of these 4 venues, one can enjoy a fabulous tango show without the paying the high prices of the typical tourist tango dinner show.

 

In all cases, when a dinner package is offered, one should opt out and buy the show (with drink) only. It's hard to screw up a steak, but dining out at one of the many good restaurants near these tango venues will result in a better evening's experience. Just don't miss the curtain.

[dr__dawggy]

Back to wines for a moment. The lower the cost, the harder it is to find good wine. To help out, here is a list of decent table wines currently selling in supermarkets for under 4 dollars a bottle and under 8 dollars using blue market pesos. All prices are for Malbec. Other reds may vary slightly, but since Malbec is Argentina's signature win, that's what I use for this list. App prices in pesos.

 

Under 4 dollars or 60 pesos

 

Goyenechea 59.89

Santa Julia 56.50

Postales Del Fin Del Mundo 56.19

Vino Norton 51.38

Trapiche 50.45

Benjamin Nieto Senetiner 57.25

 

Here is a short list of wines for between 4 and 8 dollars (120 pesos). Some really good table wines in this category.

 

Finca la Linda 105.99

Doc Norton 102.99

Santa Julia Roble (oak) 82.69

Don David 99.99

Terrazas Altos 99.99

Pascual Toso 104.99

Los Cardos 89.99

Fabre Montmayou 68.19

[aquafemme]

All the great links and info are much appreciated. I'll look into 1880 Parillo and El Establo Downtown, thanks for the suggestions.

 

I thought we might have asado/parillo one night which are reasonably priced and, because of the European influences in Buenos Aires, splurge on a Italian or French meal the next night. Any feedback on L'adesso or La Bourgogne? They both look fantastic but they are a BIG splurge for us (good thing I don't drink). Any feedback on these places would be welcome as would any suggestions for a really good Italian or French restaurant in Buenos Aires. I read Mexican restaurants are few in BA but that Maria Felix was one with good food though not spicy hot like US Tex-Mex. Okay by me -- I dislike the flavor of jalapenos. Any feedback on Maria Felix?

 

I'd rather eat elsewhere and just see the Tango shows since we are there just a couple of days and don't want to waste a dining experience on a so-so meal. But its not solely my decision. I am so looking forward to seeing Tango. Tango Porteno is now leading the list though the show at the galleria sounds good too as I'd love to see the building and take the class (it seemed so relaxed in the pix). I see there are discounted tickets available online through Tango Tix and BsAs4U -- has anyone used these services before and are they reliable?

 

The suggestion of Torquato Tasso was an excellent one. Just my cup of tea. It seems like great place to go to after dinner and listen to some music. I have a feeling we'll end up there one night.

 

Teatro Colon -- the Feb '16 schedule isn't up yet but I hope to see a ballet there. Anyone have advice on seat selection, arrival time, or buying tickets?

 

The more I look into BA the more I wish I had more time there.

[pmacher61]

If you are looking for an alternative to a typical Argentine parrilla, (my new go to parrilla is El Estrebe), you could do worse than Centro Vasco Francais. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Centro-Vasco-Frances-82. Not French or Italian, but great seafood. The shrimps ajillo and mariscos/zarzuela dishes are fab. The tortillas (espanol) are also fab. The clams ala Vasco are fab. You get the idea? (Disregard the low marks on http://www.guiaoleo.com

- I smell a rat).

The prix fix meal deal at Tomo I (about $40-45 pp) comes with 3 flights of wine and is easily priced at half or 1/3 what you would pay in No America/

Europe for the same meal.

[aquafemme]

If you are looking for an alternative to a typical Argentine parrilla, (my new go to parrilla is El Estrebe), you could do worse than Centro Vasco Francais. http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/restaurantes/Centro-Vasco-Frances-82. Not French or Italian, but great seafood. The shrimps ajillo and mariscos/zarzuela dishes are fab. The tortillas (espanol) are also fab. The clams ala Vasco are fab. You get the idea? (Disregard the low marks on http://www.guiaoleo.com

- I smell a rat).

The prix fix meal deal at Tomo I (about $40-45 pp) comes with 3 flights of wine and is easily priced at half or 1/3 what you would pay in No America/

Europe for the same meal.

 

 

Thanks for the suggestions -- they look good and I like the basque influence since some of my ancestors were basque. And seafood is always yummy. :)

[pochito]

Ola everyone.If you have already booked for a tango show always pay in Arg pesos cash. at around 9 pesos to the Dollar it is a very good deal!

 

Taso is a good option,but if you want to see non-touristy tango you can visit a milonga--ballroom tango--where you can see old and young couples showing off their skills.Admission is cheap and you can sit by the dance floor drinking a decent house wine. A throwback to the 1940's Confiteria Ideal is nearby with short taxi ride back to the pier.

 

Teatro Colon: The site is in Spanish but hope it helps

 

http://www.teatrocolon.org.ar/es/temporada/2015/ballet

 

Enjoy your stay in my native city!

[pmacher61]

Ola everyone.If you have already booked for a tango show always pay in Arg pesos cash. at around 9 pesos to the Dollar it is a very good deal!

 

Hmm...the blue (easily available) exchange rate is now about 16 pesos to the USD, not 9. No one trades USD for the official rate.

[mcohen5463@gmail.com]

Can anyone recommend a 5 hour tour and or an English speaking tour guide of Rio Feb 8th? We will be on the Celebrity Infinity. We are also 4 adults. Maybe the outskirts since it is Carnival and want to avoid traffic.

 

Open to suggestions.:)

mcohen5463@gmail.com

[Skitara]

My sister and I are doing a South America/Antartica Tour in February and will be spending a few days in Buenos Aires before sailing. Looking for some feedback on places.

 

We'll also be doing the Hop On Hop Off city bus tour one day there and I'm hoping to get feedback from anyone who has recently done it.

 

Regarding Hop On Hop Off City Tour Bus:

Is one day enough to see most of the sights?

How were the headsets--was the tour information audible and clear?

How was the comfort and ease of Hop On Hop Off?

Any tips/advice about touring this way?

 

We still haven't decided which Tango dinner show to see. We're thinking of either "Cafe de Los Angelitos" or "Esquina Carlos Gardel". Any feedback on these dinner shows would be appreciated.

 

Are there any afternoon Tango shows? Best places to see some street tango?

 

Don Julio or La Cabrera for Asado?

 

Eduardo Sívori Museum -- is it a Yea or Nay?

 

Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Hi,

 

This will be our 4th season in South America. Hop on hop off bus is a great way to see such a large city. Ticket per day is around 27 USD per person.

I will be glad to share more info about the ports of call, especially BA :-)

Let me know what are you interested in:-)

 

Cheers,

 

Jelena Richardson

Jelena@skitara.com

Edited October 29, 2015 by Skitara