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Port stop time-lapse


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I am posting this in case anyone is interested or finds it useful -e.g. to get an idea of what to expect etc.  It features leaving Dubrovnick and the ins and outs of Valletta, Messina, Taranto, Corfu Town and Kotor.  It was filmed from the Marella Explorer 2 and also shows the Norwegian Gem.

 

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I just saw the first video, and loved the entry to Kotor!  Can you share any details about how you took them? The journey into Kotor is quite a long one; did you just set up a tripod and take the time-lapse while standing there (for a long time!)? The entry to Kotor looks like it's from the very front of the ship, and I don't think there are any cabins with that view - or maybe there are! Also, what device did you use, and did you do much post-processing to get the time-lapse to look the way it does in this final product?

 

Thanks in advance! 

 

Edit to Add: I just saw the comments on the youtube site; you used multiple cameras to handle battery issues, and you mentioned the sail into Kotor was long. There was also a mention of having cameras on both sides of the ship for some sequences; did you just set up cameras on tripods and assume no-one would mess with them? What cameras are you using?  On my ship, most if not all of the front-facing public areas have glass 'shields' so it's hard to find a place to take a picture; just small gaps in the glass you can fit a lens through. 

 

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On 10/23/2022 at 6:37 PM, Steerpike58 said:

I just saw the first video, and loved the entry to Kotor!  Can you share any details about how you took them? The journey into Kotor is quite a long one; did you just set up a tripod and take the time-lapse while standing there (for a long time!)? The entry to Kotor looks like it's from the very front of the ship, and I don't think there are any cabins with that view - or maybe there are! Also, what device did you use, and did you do much post-processing to get the time-lapse to look the way it does in this final product?

 

Thanks in advance! 

 

Edit to Add: I just saw the comments on the youtube site; you used multiple cameras to handle battery issues, and you mentioned the sail into Kotor was long. There was also a mention of having cameras on both sides of the ship for some sequences; did you just set up cameras on tripods and assume no-one would mess with them? What cameras are you using?  On my ship, most if not all of the front-facing public areas have glass 'shields' so it's hard to find a place to take a picture; just small gaps in the glass you can fit a lens through. 

 

I just saw this - for some reason I didn't get a notification?  Thanks for asking and hope this helps.

Yes I use multiple cameras - a nikon key mission 170 and a go pro hero 9.  I was able to get up early and clip the cameras onto the glass shields you mention. - tip - I tie cord to them then anchor them to the bannister first in case they slip.  This means they are in front to the glass and lower down so people on the deck don't get in the way.  I then set them to time-lapse mode as appropriate.  I then move from one to the other with a handheld dslr which I can use to catch any other features I might miss.

I bought the go pro recently when on a Baltic cruise with OBC but was quarantined in my cabin for the entire time.  Going into Stockholm was also wonderful and took much longer than I thought.  Sat on the balcony in just pyjamas at 3.00am for over 3 hours with batteries failing was a learning curve - far to long to show all of it even with time-lapse but -

 

The practice of using two cameras can mean that I can film for longer times but also means I can get more flexibility - the scene of leaving Kotor was made with one camera on one side and one on the other then a dash to the rear.  It also enabled me to experiment with some split screen silliness -

Hope I have not bored you too much.  The other thing I would add is that when filming sail aways I find that a large single malt makes the filming much nicer 😉

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Not boring at all - I've been a photography nut for a long time, and have dabbled in time-lapse in the past, but back then it was a tedious process and I gave up (had to take multiple jpeg images then convert them to movie). I've been tempted to get a GoPro for a while and this looks like the excuse I need!   So - the GoPro is nice and small, and I can see how you could just clip it to the glass and let it rip.  Sounds like the GoPro has a 'timelapse' feature built in; I'm surprised you would run into battery issues if it's just popping a frame every 30 seconds or so.  What 'frame rate' do you use for these sequences (1 second, 30 seconds, etc)? Also, what resolution are you using? Is it easy these days to just 'capture' the sequence, and produce a video file? 

I hadn't heard of the Nikon Keymission 170; is it better than the GP? I think I'd like to start off with a GP as it's pretty mainstream. 

My favorite timelapse experiments in the past were 'road trips' in a car, and full-day (sunrise to sunset) captures of interesting weather events (stormy days).  In both cases, reflections and sun flare were the biggest challenges - at some point during the sequence, you have to deal with direct sun shining on the camera (or windscreen, if in a car) and that caused all manner of issues. I guess, with the GP being waterproof, you can just mount it outside and not worry so much about shielding it. 

I think I'll pick up a GP this weekend - new toy! 🙂

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15 hours ago, Steerpike58 said:

Not boring at all - I've been a photography nut for a long time, and have dabbled in time-lapse in the past, but back then it was a tedious process and I gave up (had to take multiple jpeg images then convert them to movie). I've been tempted to get a GoPro for a while and this looks like the excuse I need!   So - the GoPro is nice and small, and I can see how you could just clip it to the glass and let it rip.  Sounds like the GoPro has a 'timelapse' feature built in; I'm surprised you would run into battery issues if it's just popping a frame every 30 seconds or so.  What 'frame rate' do you use for these sequences (1 second, 30 seconds, etc)? Also, what resolution are you using? Is it easy these days to just 'capture' the sequence, and produce a video file? 

I hadn't heard of the Nikon Keymission 170; is it better than the GP? I think I'd like to start off with a GP as it's pretty mainstream. 

My favorite timelapse experiments in the past were 'road trips' in a car, and full-day (sunrise to sunset) captures of interesting weather events (stormy days).  In both cases, reflections and sun flare were the biggest challenges - at some point during the sequence, you have to deal with direct sun shining on the camera (or windscreen, if in a car) and that caused all manner of issues. I guess, with the GP being waterproof, you can just mount it outside and not worry so much about shielding it. 

I think I'll pick up a GP this weekend - new toy! 🙂

The key mission 170 was my first one which I got because it was cheaper plus easier to use.  The advantage of the key mission is that it has 2 buttons, 1 for video and the other for still.  this means you can swap between the functions very easily.  However, it also has a fisheye effect.  The GoPro has more flexibility and better power management (part of my battery problems was bad charging plus the key mission doesn't hold charge that well.)  frame rate is interesting and I change it depending on how long I need to last for - I try to keep it to a minimum and then speed things up in post edit.  often filming at 4X speed then increasing by another 4 - 8 X post edit.  The other thing with frame rate is I do try and keep to the same in movies - 25 fps/ 24fps sometimes more - the thing being trying to keep all devices on the same rate or you can get some juddering in edit if they aren't - I find this if I include any drone footage as well.  If starting now I would go for the GP but have a good look at the mount options as they are not compatible between the GP and Nikon and I have found the GP mounts to have limits on their movability.  I have clipped to he outside of the car before BUT always use simple cordage and a good knot to tether it as a back up.  Both cameras have time-lapse modes, the key mission also has a super lapse mode, and both also have a night sky mode so you can film the stars moving - which is cool.  My first attempt at that was before I had the GP and was in lockdown - not very good but fun doing.

 

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On 10/25/2022 at 12:02 PM, malted muse said:

... frame rate is interesting and I change it depending on how long I need to last for - I try to keep it to a minimum and then speed things up in post edit.  often filming at 4X speed then increasing by another 4 - 8 X post edit.  

I'm not understanding your terminology. I'm sure yours is well understood, but to me, I've always understood 'frame rate' to be 'frames per second', with a standard movie being 24 fps (which means, 24 unique pictures every second).  So when I did time-lapse, I would sometimes take 1 frame per second (1 unique picture per second), and process that as a 24 fps movie, so I guess that is 24x ? When you say, 'filming at 4x', does that mean, 6 frames/second, which when played back at 24fps becomes '4x faster'?  So '4x' means the original 'filming' frame rate is 24/4=6 fps? And then, if you 'increase by another 4-8x post edit', does that means you skip some of the original source frames?  Or - does 'increasing by 4x' mean you are producing a 96 fps product (I presume not - that would be a big waste of resources!). 

 

Are all the tools needed (video editing tools) provided by GP when you buy the camera (and/or, does eg YouTube include all the necessary features)? Features to set the 'target' frame rate, edit out bits, overlay text, add music, etc? 

 

Would you have a 'mount' suggestion I could look at? 

 

Costco beckons ... (they have good deals on GP's!). 

 

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On 10/30/2022 at 5:23 PM, Steerpike58 said:

I'm not understanding your terminology. I'm sure yours is well understood, but to me, I've always understood 'frame rate' to be 'frames per second', with a standard movie being 24 fps (which means, 24 unique pictures every second).  So when I did time-lapse, I would sometimes take 1 frame per second (1 unique picture per second), and process that as a 24 fps movie, so I guess that is 24x ? When you say, 'filming at 4x', does that mean, 6 frames/second, which when played back at 24fps becomes '4x faster'?  So '4x' means the original 'filming' frame rate is 24/4=6 fps? And then, if you 'increase by another 4-8x post edit', does that means you skip some of the original source frames?  Or - does 'increasing by 4x' mean you are producing a 96 fps product (I presume not - that would be a big waste of resources!). 

 

Are all the tools needed (video editing tools) provided by GP when you buy the camera (and/or, does eg YouTube include all the necessary features)? Features to set the 'target' frame rate, edit out bits, overlay text, add music, etc? 

 

Would you have a 'mount' suggestion I could look at? 

 

Costco beckons ... (they have good deals on GP's!). 

 

yes - when I use the fps I am talking about standard movies - when doing time-lapse it then can be done two ways.  The nikon allows you to choose the frame rate eg one picture every 2,5,10 or 30 seconds. Or you can do super lapse which is similar but rather than taking one picture every 2, 5, 10 or 30seconds it speeds up the motion by 2X, 4X, 6X, 10X or 15x - this gives a smoother but lower res result.  The GP is still new to me and might have features I have yet to master but you can set it to take images for either a series of still photos or video every 0.5, 1, 2, 5, 10, and 30 seconds, 1, 2, 5 and 30 minutes and 1 hour - which means you can do some mega time lapsing.  The nikon also allows you to film slo-mo but I have not tried that.  The GP also has such a feature but is more flexible (and complicated) called timewarp.  I have only used this a couple of times but basically you set the camera then film as normal but can press a button and get a section in slow motion, maybe sped up as well?  I have used this when birds fly past and catch their movements but also good for sports?

As for post edit changes - I use the free iMovie program that came with my mac.  This allows me to speed the motion (or slow it or freeze it) by multiples eg 2X turns a 4 second clip into a 2 second one.  I can also customise this easily.  So I will try and film as close to normal speed as I can - although still on a time-lapse - so I get the better res, then 'speed it up' as I feel best, sometimes to match the beat/change in music.

If you use iMovie a tip I do is to make sure the fist image I insert is as high res as I can, normally 4K.  This then sets the standard for the rest of the film.  You can delete the image afterwards and it should still stay at that setting - although 1080p seems fine for YouTube.

GP does a subscription thing that has stuff with it such as editing sharing etc but tbh I have never looked at it.  There seems to be resources for such things but I have got used to using the free IPhoto and iMovie on my apple devices and just stick to that.  Nikon does a similar thing called snap bridge which I have downloaded but never used - just lazy and set in my ways. It is the same for my drone (magic mini) that has editing software in an app - never used it.

The nikon can be paired to your phone - again I have never bothered and the GP can be voice controlled - which I have done a few times.  That can be useful when you are using multiple cameras or want to show off on deck.

Truth is I am just a little boy playing with toys - shame I am stuck in this old man's body.

 

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20 hours ago, Steerpike58 said:

Thanks for all the info!  I will definitely be playing soon. We are just now deciding what will be our next cruise so I need t get practicing! 

it's been a pleasure and if we ever bump into each other on a cruise we can bore everyone else talking about filming 😂

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21 hours ago, malted muse said:

it's been a pleasure and if we ever bump into each other on a cruise we can bore everyone else talking about filming 😂

Do you have a recommendation or suggestion for a 'mount' that would be appropriate for cruising (and possibly other uses) with the GoPro?  I recall buying several for my pocket camera years ago, with large suction pads. 

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On 11/4/2022 at 5:36 PM, Steerpike58 said:

Do you have a recommendation or suggestion for a 'mount' that would be appropriate for cruising (and possibly other uses) with the GoPro?  I recall buying several for my pocket camera years ago, with large suction pads. 

I have never felt secure with suction pads.  you can get packs that have different types but the ones I personally use the most are the hand held floaty which is useful for general hand held use, a tripod adaptor and a 360 degree quick clip mount for a backpack strap - this is the main one as you can just use it as a stand or clip it to a number of things such as tables, chair backs, the glass screens on deck or even a backpack strap (although it can give a jerky movement.  As I have said before I also back it up with a tie cord.  The other thing I would say is that the mount joins to the GoPro in a unique way that is fixed with a screw.  You can get metal mounts BUT as they are more sturdy than plastic the screw may not tighten the joints as much - in other words the cheaper plastic ones can give a firmer mount.  I bought a pack of mounts on board when I got the GoPro and the backpack strap clip and tripod adapter on amazon.  It all depends on what you want to do with it.

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On 11/4/2022 at 5:36 PM, Steerpike58 said:

Do you have a recommendation or suggestion for a 'mount' that would be appropriate for cruising (and possibly other uses) with the GoPro?  I recall buying several for my pocket camera years ago, with large suction pads. 

Thought I would share this with you - this is the backpack strap clip in use.  As a result of our communications I decided to experiment with filming a tree on a 1 image per hour Timelapse to see autumn changes.  You may notice that the other advantage of the GoPro over the Nikon is that you can use the GoPro when plugged into the mains (although not waterproof when you do so) so you can film for long periods.  This has been going for 26 hours so far.  Please let me know how you get on.

 

IMG_2678.JPG

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I was hoping to see the tree 🙂. I will eagerly await your example! 


I see that you are pointing the camera through the window. That was always problematic for me on two fronts; 1) the sun would invariably shine in through the window, causing reflections, and 2) reflections of the room inside would be an issue, especially if anyone turned on a light! I'm guessing you can set a 'schedule', to only film those frames during daylight hours? 

 

Regarding 'mains' power; I've just bought a new laptop that is 'USB-C-PD' compatible. This has opened up a huge set of options for power. With a USB-C-PD' (PD for 'power delivery), you can power the laptop with any USB-C-PD compatible source, and that includes nifty battery packs.  I just bought a couple of 100W/20Ah  portable battery packs, that plug into the laptop. I wonder if the latest GP's are USB-C-PD compatible ... (seems like they do). 

 

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20 hours ago, Steerpike58 said:

I was hoping to see the tree 🙂. I will eagerly await your example! 


I see that you are pointing the camera through the window. That was always problematic for me on two fronts; 1) the sun would invariably shine in through the window, causing reflections, and 2) reflections of the room inside would be an issue, especially if anyone turned on a light! I'm guessing you can set a 'schedule', to only film those frames during daylight hours? 

 

Regarding 'mains' power; I've just bought a new laptop that is 'USB-C-PD' compatible. This has opened up a huge set of options for power. With a USB-C-PD' (PD for 'power delivery), you can power the laptop with any USB-C-PD compatible source, and that includes nifty battery packs.  I just bought a couple of 100W/20Ah  portable battery packs, that plug into the laptop. I wonder if the latest GP's are USB-C-PD compatible ... (seems like they do). 

 

As for the reflection issue - no I don't have any timed schedule but what I have done, not visible on the photo, is placed a large black book behind it, close the curtain in the evening and just hope.  I am not expecting great results but am just experimenting.  I am figuring that at only one image per hour each image will be only 1 24th of a second so things like that may get smoothed out.  It is still going and I will see if the camera, my curiosity or my wife's irritation causes it to stop first.  As for battery packs - interesting and I don't know.  I have charged my iPhone from my drone's battery before but never tried the power pack option for a camera.  I was advised to buy extra batteries but haven't yet - it is something I considered for a trip to photo the northern lights (thinking that the cold would sap battery power quickly) but due to same sad news about one of my daughter's health I have postponed that trip so don't need to think about it.

I will let you know what the tree looks like either way just for the fun of it.  Hope you got yours at the weekend and are having fun.

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On 11/6/2022 at 10:06 PM, Steerpike58 said:

I was hoping to see the tree 🙂. I will eagerly await your example! 


I see that you are pointing the camera through the window. That was always problematic for me on two fronts; 1) the sun would invariably shine in through the window, causing reflections, and 2) reflections of the room inside would be an issue, especially if anyone turned on a light! I'm guessing you can set a 'schedule', to only film those frames during daylight hours? 

 

Regarding 'mains' power; I've just bought a new laptop that is 'USB-C-PD' compatible. This has opened up a huge set of options for power. With a USB-C-PD' (PD for 'power delivery), you can power the laptop with any USB-C-PD compatible source, and that includes nifty battery packs.  I just bought a couple of 100W/20Ah  portable battery packs, that plug into the laptop. I wonder if the latest GP's are USB-C-PD compatible ... (seems like they do). 

 

So, shortly after I last wrote the GP stopped recording - always worth playing around.  Yes the reflection was a problem and it did not do too great with the dark.  Part of the problem was the red light in the front. I will try again in a few days but at 30 min instead of 1 hour and maybe with a mask that covers the red light and shields the glass.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks @malted muse and @Steerpike58for the great convo. I shared this topic over on our Digital Photography forum which includes a board for videos, photo kit and other tech gear. I have a feeling they're going to enjoy it over there.

 

Thanks again for the wonderful content 🙂 

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6 minutes ago, Host Bonjour said:

Thanks @malted muse and @Steerpike58for the great convo. I shared this topic over on our Digital Photography forum which includes a board for videos, photo kit and other tech gear. I have a feeling they're going to enjoy it over there.

 

Thanks again for the wonderful content 🙂 

Thanks for that - it has been a pleasure - hope people find it some use 

 

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