Amsterdam to Istanbul, Aug 2008 on “Sound of Music” Part 1 - Long

[Emma Chisit]

Cruise marketed by well-established Australian company Australian Pacific Touring (APT) as a 26 day tour; a 21 night cruise on the Rhine, Moselle, Main and Danube Rivers from Amsterdam to Rousse, and a land portion including Gallipoli and Istanbul. “Sound of Music” owned by River Advice, Basel, Switzerland and APT charters it. APT Amadeus Waterways operates the ships Amadagio, Amalegro, Amacello and Amadante.

Hope review is useful, CC forum has been very helpful to me in planning, but I haven’t contributed before. Have concentrated on - time in port, docking location, and notes of general assistance. Times are taken from daily schedule, they stuck pretty close to these. Please ask if there is anything else you would like to know.

 

Sat 2 Aug 2008. Embark cruise Amsterdam (Docked Westerdoksdijk). Arrived Schiphol 7am, airport transfer to “Sound of Music” to leave luggage. Shuttle to city. Westerdoksdijk further from centre than docking area near railway station. Walkable, maybe not with luggage. Check-in not until 3pm. Pre-dinner entertainment Dutch folk dancing. After dinner visit to Red Light District with Cruise Director Elke for some of group.

 

Sun 3 Aug. Amsterdam. Chose Van Gogh Museum tour rather than canal boat tour. Departed 8.30am, museum opens 10am. Sunday quiet, viewed housing developments on the reclaimed islands – interesting. Also saw a windmill (less interesting). Time allowed for museum 1 ¼ hours, too little if hadn’t visited previously. Afterwards to Dam Square. Return to ship approx 12.30, lunch 12.45, depart for Cologne 1pm (309 km away). Afternoon safety briefing by captain, cruise briefing by CD; evening Welcome Cocktail party & dinner.

 

Mon 4 Aug. Cologne (Docking Konrad Adenauer Ufer , 15 mins walk from centre). Morning sailing to Cologne, early lunch 11.45 am. Noon arrival. Tours start 1pm. Cathedral tour (60-90 mins) plus free time. Buses return 3.30pm, all aboard 4.45pm, ship sails 5pm. Easy to walk back instead through medieval streets. Beautiful classical music after dinner (“La Strada”). Through a number of locks during the night, slept on regardless.

 

Tues 5 Aug. Cochem, Koblenz. Arrived Cochem 7am, city tour 8.30am. Bussed to castle (very steep to walk). Afterwards walk through interesting old town, free time, easy stroll back to the ship. (Docked Pier 3, across bridge). All aboard 11.45am, sailed 12 noon. Afternoon sailing Mosel River. Commentary by CD. Beautiful. About 2 hours delay waiting to go through a lock, our ship did not have a reservation (!?). Initially scheduled to arrive Koblenz about 5.30, with walking tour from 5.30pm to 7pm, then dinner onboard 7.30 pm. (Docked Peter Altmeijer Ufer, close to centre). Late arrival Koblenz meant tour changed to after-dinner tour. Attractive old town, would have liked to see it in daylight, perhaps even have dinner there. Many restaurants. Docked overnight.

 

Wed 6 Aug. Mainz.Sailing the Rhine, lucky with lovely weather, impressive section of river. (Lorelei Rock underwhelming).Picturesque castles and villages, vineyards, legends, robber barons - it has it all.Arrive Mainz (Dock I/B) after lunch (round 2 pm?). Walking tour of Mainz, meanwhile ship sails for Frankfurt. Left guided tour to ensure enough time to walk uphill to St Stephen’s Church to see Marc Chagall windows (not included on guided tour). One of the highlights of our trip (comparable to the Matisse chapel in Vence), best thing we experienced in Mainz. Other highlight was the organist in Mainz Cathedral – but our guide did her best to talk over him. Rejoined the group for 45 minute bus trip to Frankfurt to meet the ship. Bus very hot due to inadequate A/C, guide wittered on the whole way. Ship sailed overnight to Miltenberg.

 

Thurs 7 Aug. Miltenberg, Wertheim. Cruising the Main.Arrived Miltenberg about 8.30am. (Docking “Rose”, close to centre of town). Scheduled Walking tour 60-90 minutes, majority opted to be independent. Town very quiet, shops opening towards end of visit. All aboard 10.15am, sailing 10.30am. Entertaining on-board glass-blowing demonstration by Wertheim man. Another delay with the locks, an hour later arriving in Wertheim than scheduled time of 2pm (Dock “Alter Kran”, close to centre). Departed later also. No scheduled tour, easy to walk around small town and visit shops (especially glass shop), have a drink in attractive town square, climb up to the castle. Some cycled from Miltenberg to Wertheim (28km), including one man 80 plus. Impressive! Top sundeck closed until Passau, due to low bridges; front sundeck toward wheelhouse open, be prepared to lie down on deck if necessary when going under a low bridge. “Duo Karfunkel” after dinner – “Flutes of the Andes” style music. Pretty listening while drifting towards the locks, with the odd thunk as we hit the side. Cruising through the night.

 

Fri 8 Aug. Würzburg. Early morning arrival (approx 6am). Also early start for Residenz tour (8.15am), before officially open. No photos allowed inside. Tour about an hour. Then walk short distance (15 mins) down to old town to admire the bridge over the Main; attractive produce and flower markets; bought local wine in its distinctively-shaped bottle (Meinzinger-Muller Thurgau – Spätlese 2006. Sweetish.) Bussed to and from the Residenz. All aboard 11.45am, sailing 12 noon for Bamberg (135km). Ship docked at Alter Hafen 11, about 30 mins walk from town if you wanted to skip the Residenz tour and sightsee independently.

 

Sat 9 Aug. Bamberg. Arrival approx 7am in pretty Bamberg. Tour start approx 8.30am. Short ride from dock at Hafen (on Main-Danube Canal) to “Am Kranen” starting point of walking tour (60-90 minutes). Skipped tour to maximize free time in Bamberg, very quiet at that early hour. Quite enjoyed the free smoked beer, Rauchbier. (Tastes like bacon.) Met bus again about 11.30 am. (11.45am all aboard ship, 12 noon departure). Would have liked longer here. Note that some streets are steep, especially up to the cathedral. Don’t miss lovely rose garden, view from Neue Residenz near cathedral. Very tall locks during afternoon sailing, and low bridges to duck. After dinner arrived Nuremberg (Dock: Hafenstrasse). Strolled along shore where other river boats were docked. Nothing to see, area seemed deserted.

 

Sun 10 Aug. Nuremberg. Took Medieval Nuremberg tour, rather than World War II tour or train excursion to Munich. Driving tour of the old city. Two stops, one at amusing “Marriage Carousel” fountain and one at Kaiserburg. Looked at exterior only and splendid view of city below. Walked down to the old town, tour finishing about 10.30am. Free time till meeting the guide again at noon beside the Beautiful Fountain. The World War II tour also visited the medieval city (were not told in advance this would happen when making our choice), and it arrived back at the fountain at noon. (Felt a bit short-changed). Both groups had very nice lunch at Bratwurst Röslein (included). More free time afterwards. Nuremberg quiet on Sunday, shops closed, except a few souvenir shops. No market stalls in Hauptmarkt square on Sundays. Handwerkerhof (craft market) also closed on Sundays. Visited the Toy Museum (Spielzeugmuseum), well worthwhile. Dock about 15 mins drive (4 miles) from city centre, return shuttle buses 2pm, 2.30pm, 3pm. All aboard 3.45pm, sail for Regensburg 4pm (185km). The Munich group had a long day as they left the ship at 7am. Interesting afternoon lecture on the Main-Danube Canal. After dinner passed through the tallest lock of all, extremely impressive. Then they got smaller again. Also crossed the Continental Divide about 9.30pm, noted the occasion but did not celebrate it!

 

Mon 11 Aug. Regensburg. Approx 8.30 am arrival (Dock: Donaumarkt). Old town only a short walk from docking area nearSteinerne Brücke (Stone Bridge), easy to explore independently on foot. Early lunch at famous Historische Wurstküche (Sausage Kitchen) near bridge. All aboard 11.45am, noon departure for Passau (152 km). Pretty scenery on the Danube, a joy gliding down the river watching it unfold. Interesting lecture after dinner by CD Elke on the EU. Arrived in Passau closer to 11pm than 9pm as originally scheduled, too late for an evening excursion. (Docked Pier # 13)

 

Tues 12 Aug. Passau, Linz (or Salzburg). Did Passau walking tour and scenic cruise to Linz instead of Salzburg tour. [salzburg tour a long day (9am to 6.30 - 7pm, involving two hour bus ride each way, plus 2 ½ hours guided tour and then free time.)] Walking tour of Passau left at 8.30am, all aboard 11.45am for 12 noon sailing to Linz (91km). Docked close to the centre of Passau, explored independently. Climb the 132 stairs to the Pilgrimage Church for the magnificent view. Dom interesting, very disappointed our 12 noon departure prevented us hearing the 12 noon organ recital. Also missed the interesting-looking Glass Museum, only open in the afternoon 1-5pm. Spectacular departure given the situation of the city at the convergence of three rivers. Pretty scenery to Linz , but those who haven’t been to Salzburg before should probably take that tour instead. Arrived earlier in Linz than scheduled 7pm, docked close to the centre, walked into town and had dinner in Sflieglbrau zum Klosterhof on Landstrasse 30, beer garden under trees. Nice except the Linzertorte. Evening’s entertainment onboard was “Sounds of Austria”.

 

Wed 13 Aug. Melk, Dürnstein, Krems. Arrived about 7am, docked Pier 9, bus trip to Melk Abbey at 8.45am. Return 11.45am, ship sails 12 noon for Dürnstein (28km). Option to walk back from Abbey through town centre of Melk, about 30 mins. Intrepid group did 28km bike ride to Dürnstein. Everyone else sailed to Dürnstein, arriving about 1.30pm. Wachau Valley very beautiful. Easy walk from ship’s dock (Pier 22) to the town. Dürnstein small, very crowded. Mostly with shops selling apricot wine, apricot chocolates etc. Where do the real people live? Sailed 4.15pm for Krems, one hour and 8km away.(Dock Pier 23). Bussed to a local co-operative for 1 ½ hour (approx) Wachau Valley wine-tasting tour. Evening entertainment Passenger Talent Show.

 

Thurs 14 Aug. Vienna. Arrived 8am.(Docked Handelskai Pier #1). Chose Hundertwasser House tour rather than sightseeing tour of Vienna's main sights. Latter more popular. Both tours included a Ringstrasse circuit. Docked about 15 -20 minutes’ walk from subway. Alternatively, taxi fare to centre approx 10-15 euros one way. Enjoyed tour, especially Hundertwasser Museum with his paintings. Post tour coffee and Sachertorte at Hotel Sacher, with every other tourist in Vienna. (Coffee and cake for two, 20 euros). At leisure in afternoon, visited Leopold Museum. Highly recommended for the Schiele and Klimt paintings, and the building. Evening’s entertainment a trip highlight, Mozart and Strauss concert in lovely Golden Hall of the Vienna Philharmonic Concert House. (50 euros each). Hot room, dress accordingly. Driven around Ringstrasse to see the illuminated buildings.

 

Fri 15 Aug. Vienna, Bratislava. Last chance to get euros (need some for Turkey). Free time or optional tour to Schönbrunn (Coach leaves 8am, palace 30-45 mins away). Took subway to Albertina Museum for a wonderful exhibition of Monet, Picasso, Chagall, Matisse etc. (Private collection). Public Holiday, all shops closed, museums open, but not till 10am. Had to fill in waiting time with coffee and sachertorte at Hotel Sacher again. Scrambled to get back on board by 11.45am, sailed for Bratislava 12 noon (58km). Arrived 4 pm approx (Docked Huma 3 opposite Hotel Danubius, close to centre). Tour of appealing Old Town in small train, free time after. Easy town to walk around, appealing shops, cafes, quirky statues. Aphrodites (four attractive young ladies playing popular music) on board at 6pm. 7.15pm Captain’s Cocktail Party and Dinner to farewell the 18 passengers leaving at Budapest. 8.45pm all aboard, 9pm sail for Budapest (120km).

[newnanna]

Thanks for the review.

We are 2 girlfriends in late 40's traveling ( husbands have to work)

We have been trying to decide about going on the Salzburg option, after

reading your report I think we shall go to Salzburg.

I have another girlfriend and her hubby travelling with Apt next June.

I will pass your report onto her. She is also North Brisbane based.

Thanks again for the comprehensive report.

[webfoot]

We also had Aphrodites play on our tour. The music was fun ... not typical classical but lots of show tunes!! Hope you enjoyed them!

[Emma Chisit]

Thanks newnanna and webfoot. Yes, Salzburg is the better option if you haven't been there (we had). Did enjoy the Passau-Linz cruise though. As for Aphrodites, we thought they were great fun too, one of the better acts.