Progreso/Merida - thanks to HDAWSON! - also Dzibilchaltun Mayan ruin.

[terryde]

We were just in Progreso/Merida May 26 on the Carnival Glory - you should listen to HDAWSON! He gave great advice, great pix, etc. Here is what we did: we left the ship as early as we could, and went to wait for the "free" shuttle bus. Well, they told us it would be 40 more minutes or so, but they would give us a cab to the end of the pier for $6 US. Another couple split it with us and we asked to go to the bus station. No-one spoke english there, but we got a bus round trip to Merida for $2 each US! (That's about 25 miles each way, I think). It was a great, air-conditioned bus and we could watch the scenery as we went along. The rest of the passengers were very quiet local folks, but every time we tried to ask a question (in my very minimal Spanish) they were very friendly and helpful. In Merida, we were very close to the main square, but this is a city of almost a million, so very busy. No-one there spoke english! We had a map from the internet (very imp!) and walked to see churches, parks, museums, bookstores with books in english, and even up a beautiful avenue (Paseo de montejo) with beautiful buildings, sculptures, and the Wal-Mart! We did walk to the Fiesta Americana hotel and asked for a cab to Dzibilchaltun and on to Progreso, one way for two of us. We had the concierge get a cab for us, and negotiated the price to $35. (There were buses to that place, but we thought we wouldn't have time to get there, back to Merida and back to Progreso - no buses from Progreso straight to Dzibilchaltun, but some took cabs there). The cabby spoke english fluently and answered a million of my questions along the way. He waited for us to tour the truly great museum and the grounds - there are perhaps a dozen buildings there, a sort of "Sculpture garden", and even very reasonable gift shops that do haggle on the prices. We really recommend this Mayan ruin and it is perhaps 13 miles from Progreso. We went back to Progreso with about an hour to shop - there is the Corona with a lanyard to hold it around your neck for $1 total, and a outdoor market with lots of stands very close to the pier, as well as lots of tables set up right by the beach. Some just spent the day on the beach and ate and drank.

 

Too bad carnival will not be using this port - maybe they will work it out after a while. There are a lot more things we would like to do there!

[hdawson]

Terry. It's so gratifying to get this kind of positive response about such an interesting area. You'ld be surprised how many don't even acknowledge receipt of the pics and effort to help them enjoy this port. It's been alot of fun introducing folks to the real Mexico. I will be going back in Oct for two full weeks and visiting a couple of smaller rural towns in the area. Travel insurance policy arrived today. Air is purchased and now the long count down. Some really think that Cancun and Cozumel are Mexican. So glad you enjoyed your port day. It's an area that is mostly undiscovered by folks in the US, but many Europeans go there. Even Aussies. Welcome home. Time to start planning another trip.

[terryde]

Yes, you are right! What we do is to tell everyone we meet on the ship and in our "real" life - so they know that adventure is good! We took that other couple with us to Merida and then they struck out on their own there - once they knew that they could get there and back, then they were fine. We do plan future trips there - we just scratched the surface of what there was to see and do!

[hdawson]

Terry. I can't tell you how relaxing it was to visit Merida as a land vacation. Especially after so many cruises. Still love them and hope to do many more.

In Merida's plazas there are the evening concerts and folklorics (free) and of course the Sat evening and all day Sun street fair. Coffee bars, sidewalk cafes, good restaurants and hotels and so many very pleasant plazas just for people watching. And lots of photo ops. Of course many mayan ruins in easy reach and the seashore just a half hour bus ride away. By the way, I'm a big coffee drinker and never had even a marginal cup of joe. Always very good.

[Nana45]

Can you give me the name of a cabdriver/tour guide? Is it safe to just get a cab from the taxi stand? Does anyone know how to contact a taxi company to arrange for a cab in advance?

[hdawson]

Nana45. I've always found this area to be very safe. You should try to find an English speaking taxi driver, if there are some, but I would feel safe with any of them. In negotiating, remember the exchange rate is about 10 pesos to one US dollar. Carry small denominations of currency.

[darsben]

We are going to try getting off ship in Progreso and taking a bus or collectivo to Merida.

What I cannot find out is where the bus leaves from in Progreso to get to Merida. Can anyone tell us the place or address it leaves from. I have a map, but directions from the wharf would be nice.

[hdawson]

Darben. Two choices. You can get a bus from the plaza in Progreso where the courtesy bus drops you for $8.00 RT. Orrrrrr you can ask directions to the main bus terminal three blocks away and pay $3.00 round trip. The bus terminal in Merida is just three blocks from the central plaza in the historical area. About a 30 minute ride.

[darsben]

Great now one last question. In most Latin American towns there is a central market where people bring their fruits/veges and handicrafts to sell. where is that in merida and what is it called?

[hdawson]

Darsben. There is a central market on Calle 62 on the way from the Merida bus terminal to the central plaza. There is another, I believe named the Mercado on Calle 64 in the same neighborhood. Very interesting to walk through or even do some shopping. If I were you I would email your question to http://www.yucatantoday.com They have been very responsive to such questions.

 

Correction. The second market is on Calle 56 or 58 not on 64. At about cross street Calle 67.

[darsben]

You know I tried Yucatantoday and they gave me the tourist info. IE taxi from progreso or cruise ship bus to Merida but I want to do more natural stuff and I believe that they want to push the more $$$ stuff. Anyway those were the last two questions I needed answered. I will enjoy trying to be a part of the area instead of a spectator. thanks

[LeslitaKayita]

Thank you, H. Dawson, for all the pics and info you sent me. I had another question.

 

You had mentioned taking a bus to Merida, or, taking a taxi from Progreso to Dzibilchaltun then onto Merida after touring the ruins. I do want to see ruins, and think a taxi would be fine, but others had recommended Uxmal. What say you? Which ruins would you recommend? Uxmal has come highly recommended. Looking at the map, Dzib. looks much closer, which would leave more time for sightseeing in Merida. I just want to 1) be sure we will get back to the ship on time; 2) see some of 'authentic Mexico in Merida; and 3) see Mayan ruins that are hopefully not too crowded.

 

I will email this question to you directly, as well. Just wanted to post here in case others were trying to plan Progreso. Thanks for all your help!

 

Leslie

[RizzoLee]

You had mentioned taking a bus to Merida, or, taking a taxi from Progreso to Dzibilchaltun then onto Merida after touring the ruins. I do want to see ruins, and think a taxi would be fine, but others had recommended Uxmal. What say you? Which ruins would you recommend? Uxmal has come highly recommended. Looking at the map, Dzib. looks much closer, which would leave more time for sightseeing in Merida. I just want to 1) be sure we will get back to the ship on time; 2) see some of 'authentic Mexico in Merida; and 3) see Mayan ruins that are hopefully not too crowded.

 

We were in Progresso back in March-had a fantastic time!

 

Words of advice:

 

We wanted to do the Dzibilchaltun Ruins but didn't want to pay the atrotious (sp?) charges from the ship. We walked around for half the day buying souvenirs, and met up with a gentleman from Canada who retired there. (He recognized our Canadian accents, lol. I'd love to hear what i sound like!) He recommended that we go to Merida, but since we only had 4 hours left in port, he convinced us to go to Dzibilchaltun. I know some Spanish, but he grabbed a cab for the 4 of us, and off we go to the ruins for 2 hours. The cabbie waited for us, and it was only $40 round trip, I can't remember how much it was to get in, but less than $10? seems right. So, $20 max was much better than what the ship charged.

 

We toured by ourselves and found the cenote (a fresh water 'pool')! Bring a bathing suit-it's gorgeous. :D

[marco1tx]

Terryde, you mention at the end of your post that it's too bad Carnival isn't using this port (Progreso ?). We have a trip booked for September that's supposed to stop there - can you share some more info on your comment ?

[Traveler353]

This thread is from 2005. Very out dated. Carnival has been going to Progresso for some time now.

[marco1tx]

Thanks, Traveler353. I suppose it would have helped if I'd looked at the date !!

[hdawson]

The details about Progreso and Merida are still valid.

[Texas-Ben]

Thanks, hdawson, for all your input here. I just booked my cruise for September. At first I was not all that excited about the Progreso port stop and figured I would just book the CI trip and eat up all the stop by finally going there. After reading this thread and some of your advise I'm going to change my plan completely! You compared Merida to Colonial Williamsburg which is one of my favorite vacations. Can you elaborate on your comparison? I'm thinking of doing exactly what terry did on his port stop. Hoping that there might be time for a quick beach massage before boarding again.

 

Hdawson I would alos enjoy seeing your pictures. You can email them to FWFBen@aol.com and I would greatly appreciate it. I'd love to do Uxmal but I think Merida and the D ruins is a pretty full day! I want to get a good look at Merida as I might want to set up a trip with Merida as the base of operations so I can then get to CI and Uxmal. Any suggestions on places to stay in Merida so I might be able to take a peek at them on the cruise stop?

 

Thanks to all who post here, it has been very informative!:D

[hdawson]

Ben. Correct your email address. It doesn't work.

[Texas-Ben]

The correct email is FWFCBen@aol.com My Bad!:(

[texasmomo3]

Terry, I love the way you did this and after reading all hdawson's posts, I would like to thank him as well. I can't wait to get to Progreso on our July 25th Ecstasy cruise. We will have our three girls 6 to 13, and I am sure they will love it. Hdawson, I was wondering if you also enjoyed yucatanliving.com? I have just discovered it, and it is such an insider look to life in Merida. There is a great article on a "secret" cenote near Chichen Itza, called Yokdzonot. It was just developed for tourism in 2007 with the addition of steps and handrails, restaurant, snorkeling, etc. Wonderful video on the site. I would love to have time to go there! Have you been?

[Texas-Ben]

Could you post here after your cruise? I always appreciate hearing about other's trips! I'll be heading there in Sept and my plan is to replecate terryde's trip exactly.

 

Thanks!:)

[WilliamLawson]

Yucatanliving is a great resource! YucatanToday.com is another, more oriented towards tourism while the first is geared towards potential and actual residents of Merida and the Yucatan. I write a blog as well on driving the Yucatan.

 

For places to stay in Merida, there is quite a selection, from the Luz en Yucatan and Medio Mundo hotels downtown to opulent haciendas like Xcanatun on the outskirts that will make you feel like a king!

 

Cheers :)

[terry&mike]

My favorite Merida hotel is Casa del Balam - love it's historic charm and elegance.

[1123mrk]

Hdawson, you seem to be an expert on the area of Merida, so may I pick your brain? There are 7 of us who will be stopping in Progreso and Cozumel in December. While I have been to Mexico several times (primarily central and western coast), this is the first trip to Mexico for my brother and his family. I am fluent in Spanish and would like to give them a taste of "real" Mexico as opposed to the touristy things. The ruins are certainly a valuable attraction, but I think we just want to explore, shop, people-watch, etc. on this trip. How shall we spend our day in port? Is it worthwhile to spend time in Progreso itself, should we head straight for Merida, or should we spend time in both? In either place, is there a main market that you recommend? Any suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated!