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Altun Ha, Lamanai, Xunantunich?


Palehose13
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When my husband and I did our first cruise we did the DZIBANCHE MAYA RUINS. Much closer than most of the ruins as far as the drive goes (approx 45-60 min) and the ruins were amazing. The ruins were very interesting but got tired of our guide always talking about his family so after a 1/2 an hour we broke off from the tour and explored on our own. (You can always read ahead of time about these ruins). It's one of the few ruins you CAN climb on everything. But the best part of this was that the have a beautiful cenote that you can swim in and cool off. So glad we broke off from the tour. We had about 45 minutes in the water compare to the rest of the group that had only 20 minutes. We have recommended this tour to everyone and they were all glad they took this tour. Good luck with your choice and you can also YouTube this info to check out each site. :o

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How do we choose? Any recommendations or should we go to ruins in Mexico (Costa Maya and Cozumel) instead? We're 2 adults with no physical limitations.

 

Pick a couple of ruins that you think you would enjoy. Google them. You'll fine lots of pictures and reviews. It gives you an excuse to go back to the Western Caribbean route - to see more ruins!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lots of info on the sites you've asked about as previously stated. I've only experienced Xunantunich and was not dissapointed. The site was magnificent. Our guides were very informative on all aspects of belize and never were bored with them wether during the long bus ride to and from or during the visit to the site. Explore all avenues that each would offer........then go for it!! :D

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How do we choose? Any recommendations or should we go to ruins in Mexico (Costa Maya and Cozumel) instead? We're 2 adults with no physical limitations.

 

My wife and I have been to Uxmal, Tulum, Chitchen Itza, Lamanai, and Kohunlich. They are all magnificent and worth your time if you really want to see them.

 

 

We took ship sponsored excursions in all the locations to have peace of mind just knowing the ship would wait for us. In two of those locations, our excursions were very late in getting back.

 

Looking at pictures may help you decide what to do. My wife made slideshows from the pictures she took on our cruises and posted them on her website. If you are interested in seeing them you can click on the links below. Each slideshow will play as soon as the page opens, but you can also go through the pictures by clicking on the thumbnails one at a time.

 

Happy Sailing.

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  • 5 weeks later...
How do we choose? Any recommendations or should we go to ruins in Mexico (Costa Maya and Cozumel) instead? We're 2 adults with no physical limitations.

 

Sorry for the re-post, but it seems relevant:

 

This question about which ruins to see in Belize comes up frequently, thus it might be appropriate to settle this question. I have been studying Maya archeology, history, and culture off and on for about 20 years (just as an enthusiast, not as a professional) and have travelled to various Mayan sites many times, including the three sites in Belize to which the cruise lines sent their passengers. We have visited these three sites in November 2011. Several notes:

 

(1) The Ancient Maya have lived throughout the entire area of what is now Belize, and one can find archeological evidence everywhere. There are hundreds of sites of various archeological quality and significance throughout the whole country. Of these hundreds of sites, there are about 5 major sites in Belize: Altun Ha, Lamanai, Xunantunich, Caracol, and Lubaantun.

 

(2) When it comes to picking Ancient Maya sites for Belize, the cruise lines did an excellent jobs in selecting the appropriate ones. All three sites (i.e., Altun Ha, Lamanai, and Xunantunich) that the cruise ships picked are major sites for Belize. There are dozens of smaller sites that are just as close or closer to the ship, that the cruise lines have correctly ignored. This can’t be said for site selections in, for example, Cozumel, where the cruise lines offer excursions to even some third rate archeological sites, from which cruise passengers invariably come back disappointed.

 

(3) All three sites that cruise ship excursions visit in Belize have been partially excavated, and pyramids have been consolidated (i.e., rebuilt by archeologists). You and your kids are able to climb pyramids and other structures on all three sites. A few portions of pyramids are off limits, but generally there are no official restrictions on climbing on structures. This is not like Chichen Itza where climbing is forbidden, or Tulum, where everything is roped off and people are herded on crushed gravel walkways. Whether the excursion guides will allow you to do so (for liability reasons) is another question.

 

(4) The sizes of the three sites are comparable. All have multiple pyramids to climb. None of them are huge (like Chichen Itza or Copan or Tikal), and within a few hours you will see pretty much the whole site. It is also not so small like so many of the sites in Puuc Hills. I have no idea how long the excursion last, but guidebooks that specialize in visiting Mayan sites, and which I have found to have good estimates, recommend spending 1.5 hrs in Altun Ha, 2 hrs in Xunantunich, and 3 hrs in Lamanai.

 

(5) If you are looking to take photos of your family members or friends each standing on a different distant pyramid, then go to Altun Ha or Xunantunich. Specifically, if you are looking to put your friends on different pyramids across a wide field of view, then Altun Ha is best; if you are looking to put your friends on different structures in a row, then Xunantunich is best.

 

(6) If you are looking for an overgrowth of a jungle, then Lamanai is the best. The pyramids in Altun Ha and Xunantunich are around plazas of lawn. On the other hand walking between structures in Lamanai the paths generally wind through a jungle (except for one open plaza, P2). The nice thing about walking in a jungle is that you are walking in a shade. If you are visiting from a cruise ship, you will be visiting the site during the hottest part of the day, thus walking in a shade does make a big difference.

 

(7) If you are looking to climb a tall pyramid, go to Xunantunich or Lamanai. El Castillo (structure A-6) in Xunantunich measures 127 feet. El Castillo (structure N10-43) in Lamanai measures 108 feet. Though the Lamanai’s El Castillo is a little bit shorter than the one in Xunantunich, it appears higher from the ground, because you have to climb is straight up holding onto a chain as you climb. El Castillo in Xunantunich is easier to climb for people who are afraid of heights. However, because of the vast grassy plaza in front of El Castillo in Xunantunich, when you are at the top, it does appear that you are significantly higher than from El Castillo in Lamanai which is most surrounded by treetops. (The tallest pyramid in Altun Ha is Temple of the Masonry Altars with 59 feet).

 

(8) If you want to include in your excursion a visit to unconsolidated and overgrown structures where tourists generally do not wander, where your kids can feel like Indiana Jones, and where you can see how the structures looked like before archeologists consolidated them, then go to Xunantunich or Lamanai. In Xunantunich there is a path leading westward from the southern edge of the ball court for about 500 feet to about 7 structure of “middle class residences” called “Group B”. In Lamanai there is a path heading further north from the Mask Temple looping around a huge unexcavated, unconsolidated “Structure P9-25” (it is about 90x110 meters, reaching heights of 28 meters, making the most massive structure in Lamanai). Note that P9-25 is not on most tour books (except for Lonely Planet) and not on maps posted on the bulletin boards at the entrance to the site. It will take more time to go off to hike to P9-25 in Lamanai, then to hike to Group B in Xunantunich.

 

(9) If you are looking for the best way of getting to the site, go to Lamanai. All or a portion of the trip to Lamanai is on a speedboat on a river. This is generally the preferred way of getting to Lamanai. You’ll see monkeys getting into the boat, and you’ll see crocodiles, etc.

 

(10) If you are looking for the closest site to Belize City, go to Altun Ha. However, about half of the road from Belize City to the turn off to Altun Ha is on an old potholed road.

 

(11) The road from Belize City to Xunantunich, is fast, goes through a picturesque country, but it is a long drive. You are essentially going across the whole country, almost into Guatemala.

 

(12) If you want to visit a site on your own, and want to rent a car to get there, then go to Altun Ha. This is the easiest of the three to drive to and see.

 

(13) If you want to rent a car to visit Xunantunich on your own, the drive is long (130 km or so) but the road is in a relatively good condition. The trickiest part is getting though Santa Elana/San Ignacio; you should study maps of this twin town to save yourself the time.

 

(14) If you want to rent a car to visit Lamanai, then you need to be early enough to make it to the bridge across the New River from underneath which speed boats take off for Lamanai. There is usually someone hanging around the bridge who could take you to Lamanai for a reasonable fee if you miss the boat. It is also possible to drive all the way to Lamanai, going across the bridge crossing the New River, and then turning south on a packed gravel, unmarked, road through Mennonite farming communities. Note that both ITM maps (250K Belize and 500K Yucatan) differ from each other and from reality, thus you should rely on Google Earth. If you get lost, try out your German language skills.

 

(15) At the entrance to any of these sites will be locals who you can hire to be your guide.

 

(16) If you want to visit Caracol, which is a little bit more impressive Mayan site than Altun Ha, Xunantunich, or Lamanai, then it will be very difficult to do it on a daytrip from a cruise ship. To get there, you’ll need to drive on Western Highway almost to Xunantunich, then head off south into jungle covered mountains for about 2 1/2 to 3 hours on a deeply rutted jungle tracks (4WD drive is preferred, but we did it during dry season in a front wheel drive car), and then you will need to report by 9:15 to the military outpost in Douglas da Silva, from which you will join a convoy of cars protected by military escorts for about another hour to reach Caracol. At 14:00 you will head back, and reverse to process.

 

 

In summary, I don’t think that you can go wrong with either Lamanai, or Xunantunich, or Altun Ha; all have plusses and minuses, all are very good sites, but none is a world-class site. I hope that this has helped.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for such a thorough review! I went to Lamanai last month and LOVED it. My parents now want to go so we are going on the same cruise next Spring Break. I think my son (13 yrs old) is kinda like "Meh. Been there, done that" in regards to returning to Belize, but I would love for my parents to see the ruins. I was considering Xunantunich for next year. But think they'll appreciate the shade factor of Lamanai.

 

Thanks again for sharing!

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  • 2 weeks later...

@pdmlynek Thank you for that very thorough review. It was extremely helpful. I've been stuck on the decision of which site I want to visit, and after reading your post, I'm siding with Xunantunich.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post that!

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Thanks for the detailed comparison of the ruins. We are trying to decide between Altun Ha and Lamanai, so I will share this description with the rest of our group. As we will be traveling with my Dad (80 years old) and two in our group are not very active, I'm thinking that the shade of Lamanai will be the deciding factor.

 

Can anyone tell me how prevalent mosquitoes are at Lamanai and Altun Ha? Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

Thank you so much for this! You helped me make the decision to go with Lamanai and I'm really looking forward to it!

 

 

Sorry for the re-post, but it seems relevant:

 

This question about which ruins to see in Belize comes up frequently, thus it might be appropriate to settle this question. I have been studying Maya archeology, history, and culture off and on for about 20 years (just as an enthusiast, not as a professional) and have travelled to various Mayan sites many times, including the three sites in Belize to which the cruise lines sent their passengers. We have visited these three sites in November 2011. Several notes:

 

(1) The Ancient Maya have lived throughout the entire area of what is now Belize, and one can find archeological evidence everywhere. There are hundreds of sites of various archeological quality and significance throughout the whole country. Of these hundreds of sites, there are about 5 major sites in Belize: Altun Ha, Lamanai, Xunantunich, Caracol, and Lubaantun.

 

(2) When it comes to picking Ancient Maya sites for Belize, the cruise lines did an excellent jobs in selecting the appropriate ones. All three sites (i.e., Altun Ha, Lamanai, and Xunantunich) that the cruise ships picked are major sites for Belize. There are dozens of smaller sites that are just as close or closer to the ship, that the cruise lines have correctly ignored. This can’t be said for site selections in, for example, Cozumel, where the cruise lines offer excursions to even some third rate archeological sites, from which cruise passengers invariably come back disappointed.

 

(3) All three sites that cruise ship excursions visit in Belize have been partially excavated, and pyramids have been consolidated (i.e., rebuilt by archeologists). You and your kids are able to climb pyramids and other structures on all three sites. A few portions of pyramids are off limits, but generally there are no official restrictions on climbing on structures. This is not like Chichen Itza where climbing is forbidden, or Tulum, where everything is roped off and people are herded on crushed gravel walkways. Whether the excursion guides will allow you to do so (for liability reasons) is another question.

 

(4) The sizes of the three sites are comparable. All have multiple pyramids to climb. None of them are huge (like Chichen Itza or Copan or Tikal), and within a few hours you will see pretty much the whole site. It is also not so small like so many of the sites in Puuc Hills. I have no idea how long the excursion last, but guidebooks that specialize in visiting Mayan sites, and which I have found to have good estimates, recommend spending 1.5 hrs in Altun Ha, 2 hrs in Xunantunich, and 3 hrs in Lamanai.

 

(5) If you are looking to take photos of your family members or friends each standing on a different distant pyramid, then go to Altun Ha or Xunantunich. Specifically, if you are looking to put your friends on different pyramids across a wide field of view, then Altun Ha is best; if you are looking to put your friends on different structures in a row, then Xunantunich is best.

 

(6) If you are looking for an overgrowth of a jungle, then Lamanai is the best. The pyramids in Altun Ha and Xunantunich are around plazas of lawn. On the other hand walking between structures in Lamanai the paths generally wind through a jungle (except for one open plaza, P2). The nice thing about walking in a jungle is that you are walking in a shade. If you are visiting from a cruise ship, you will be visiting the site during the hottest part of the day, thus walking in a shade does make a big difference.

 

(7) If you are looking to climb a tall pyramid, go to Xunantunich or Lamanai. El Castillo (structure A-6) in Xunantunich measures 127 feet. El Castillo (structure N10-43) in Lamanai measures 108 feet. Though the Lamanai’s El Castillo is a little bit shorter than the one in Xunantunich, it appears higher from the ground, because you have to climb is straight up holding onto a chain as you climb. El Castillo in Xunantunich is easier to climb for people who are afraid of heights. However, because of the vast grassy plaza in front of El Castillo in Xunantunich, when you are at the top, it does appear that you are significantly higher than from El Castillo in Lamanai which is most surrounded by treetops. (The tallest pyramid in Altun Ha is Temple of the Masonry Altars with 59 feet).

 

(8) If you want to include in your excursion a visit to unconsolidated and overgrown structures where tourists generally do not wander, where your kids can feel like Indiana Jones, and where you can see how the structures looked like before archeologists consolidated them, then go to Xunantunich or Lamanai. In Xunantunich there is a path leading westward from the southern edge of the ball court for about 500 feet to about 7 structure of “middle class residences” called “Group B”. In Lamanai there is a path heading further north from the Mask Temple looping around a huge unexcavated, unconsolidated “Structure P9-25” (it is about 90x110 meters, reaching heights of 28 meters, making the most massive structure in Lamanai). Note that P9-25 is not on most tour books (except for Lonely Planet) and not on maps posted on the bulletin boards at the entrance to the site. It will take more time to go off to hike to P9-25 in Lamanai, then to hike to Group B in Xunantunich.

 

(9) If you are looking for the best way of getting to the site, go to Lamanai. All or a portion of the trip to Lamanai is on a speedboat on a river. This is generally the preferred way of getting to Lamanai. You’ll see monkeys getting into the boat, and you’ll see crocodiles, etc.

 

(10) If you are looking for the closest site to Belize City, go to Altun Ha. However, about half of the road from Belize City to the turn off to Altun Ha is on an old potholed road.

 

(11) The road from Belize City to Xunantunich, is fast, goes through a picturesque country, but it is a long drive. You are essentially going across the whole country, almost into Guatemala.

 

(12) If you want to visit a site on your own, and want to rent a car to get there, then go to Altun Ha. This is the easiest of the three to drive to and see.

 

(13) If you want to rent a car to visit Xunantunich on your own, the drive is long (130 km or so) but the road is in a relatively good condition. The trickiest part is getting though Santa Elana/San Ignacio; you should study maps of this twin town to save yourself the time.

 

(14) If you want to rent a car to visit Lamanai, then you need to be early enough to make it to the bridge across the New River from underneath which speed boats take off for Lamanai. There is usually someone hanging around the bridge who could take you to Lamanai for a reasonable fee if you miss the boat. It is also possible to drive all the way to Lamanai, going across the bridge crossing the New River, and then turning south on a packed gravel, unmarked, road through Mennonite farming communities. Note that both ITM maps (250K Belize and 500K Yucatan) differ from each other and from reality, thus you should rely on Google Earth. If you get lost, try out your German language skills.

 

(15) At the entrance to any of these sites will be locals who you can hire to be your guide.

 

(16) If you want to visit Caracol, which is a little bit more impressive Mayan site than Altun Ha, Xunantunich, or Lamanai, then it will be very difficult to do it on a daytrip from a cruise ship. To get there, you’ll need to drive on Western Highway almost to Xunantunich, then head off south into jungle covered mountains for about 2 1/2 to 3 hours on a deeply rutted jungle tracks (4WD drive is preferred, but we did it during dry season in a front wheel drive car), and then you will need to report by 9:15 to the military outpost in Douglas da Silva, from which you will join a convoy of cars protected by military escorts for about another hour to reach Caracol. At 14:00 you will head back, and reverse to process.

 

 

In summary, I don’t think that you can go wrong with either Lamanai, or Xunantunich, or Altun Ha; all have plusses and minuses, all are very good sites, but none is a world-class site. I hope that this has helped.

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I am thinking/planning the Altun Ha & river tour the Carnival has... Don't want to miss the boat. The tour does a bus thru the country, then a boat up the river, then the ruins then lunch and back again. And it is only 5.5 hours not 7+.

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  • 1 year later...
I am thinking/planning the Altun Ha & river tour the Carnival has... Don't want to miss the boat. The tour does a bus thru the country, then a boat up the river, then the ruins then lunch and back again. And it is only 5.5 hours not 7+.

 

I am looking at this one also, for the same reasons.

 

I do want a little time to poke around the pier area shops, either before or after the tour, since this is my first time in Belize.

 

Can someone who has taken this ship excursion comment about that please?

 

Thank in advance.

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