Live from the Koningsdam - Alaska Inside Passage - June 3-10, 2023

[nw gardener]

Going south just north of Ketchikan and Ward Cove. Saw humpbacks in Glacier Bay and also passing Hoonah yesterday too.

[nw gardener]

Also saw 3 bears on the shore in Glacier Bay, lots of sea lions, seals, sea otters, and mountain goats in Glacier Bay.  Highly recommend bringing binoculars on the cruise if you have them. 

[decrepit old man]

48 minutes ago, nw gardener said:

Also saw 3 bears on the shore in Glacier Bay, lots of sea lions, seals, sea otters, and mountain goats in Glacier Bay.  Highly recommend bringing binoculars on the cruise if you have them. 

Did the Rangers announce these while in glacier Bay? The only wildlife announcement the Rangers made on our cruise was for one bear way off in the distance

[nw gardener]

Yes they did advise of where to look for the bears, whales,  and mountain goats. The whale sightings outside of the park were on our own and looking at the right time and luck.

[HappyInVan]

3 hours ago, decrepit old man said:

Did the Rangers announce these while in glacier Bay? The only wildlife announcement the Rangers made on our cruise was for one bear way off in the distance

 On my cruise, we were fortunate enough to sight a bear being followed by 3 wolves. On the same section of shore, a moose and its calf were making their way along, before climbing up the hillside into the trees.

 

Ohhh, there were these 5 mountain goats grazing on the cliff-like slopes.

 

 

[visagrunt]

Okay.  You want whale sightings, read on...

Ketchikan is always my favourite port on this itinerary (Is that a fair superlative after only six Alaska cruises?)  The town is a real town (unlike Skagway) and a nice town (unlike Juneau).

Today was the usual SE heading into Ketchikan.  Being on the port side of the ship, merely disturbing the curtains caused my poor husband to be propelled back into the bed with the force of the dawn sunlight.  Fortunately tea was available to soothe his injuries.  Armed with polarized lenses I ventured forth on the first balcony-friendly morning to engage my caffeine curls (with an almond croissant to balance in my off hand).

The vast number of people in the Thermal Suite (by my count, 6) made the entry into Ketchikan lovely.  My ceramic bed next to the window allowed a careful assessment of the Captain's careful maneuvering to the pier.  We passed some poor, lamented Norwegian vessel back in Ward's Cove and one of the pretty, pretty Princesses was stranded in the middle of the harbour.

We, on the other hand, were tied up directly opposite the departure point of our Misty Fjords excursion.  Unfortunately it was also the departure point for Princess' Misty Fjords excursion.  But the tour operator had clearly been through this rodeo before and handled it with aplomb.

Okay.  Misty Fjords excursion.  Six out of five stars, today.  As we made our way towards Rudyerd Bay, my husband (the wildlife whisperer) spotted a pod of Orca who decided to make our afternoon.  Being a resident of the lower mainland of BC I have regularly been treated to the view of a pod of orca in my ferry journeys across the Salish Sea.  But never--NEVER--have I ever had an orca show me her belly as she swam upside down and waved her pectorals at me.  In what seemed like an eternity (but which my rational brain tells me was ten minutes) a pod of mothers, calves and hangers on treated us to leaps and breaches and playfulness.  I said to my husband, "the rest of this excursion is gravy."  Little did I know.

Shortly before we reached New Eddystone Rock our skipper pointed out a humpback.  He had the species correct, but the number wrong.  Several humpbacks delighted us with repeated breaches--a dozen would be an uncharitable estimate.  And after all of that extraordinary expenditure of energy, a young adult treated us to repeated waves of their pectorals as if to bid us a fair journey.

Not 15 minutes later, my husband spotted another humpback, who treated us to more pectoral waves (though, no breaches).  After all of this cetacean entertainment, how could the static monoliths of Misty Fjord (well, not-so-Misty-as-last-September Fjord) compare.  Most majestically as it turns out.  To see the sources of a 500+ m waterfall is no small matter.

At this point the skipper prepared to turn us around to head back to Ketchikan, remarking that we would return by 1845--if we spotted no further whales.  He seemed to me to direct that comment somewhat directly at my husband.

A Tsimshian-Haida artist regaled us with stories and history during our return visit, and soon enough we returned to the pier, directly across from Koningsdam.  Honestly the 30 m walk from small boat to large ship was the most strenuous part of my day.  Thus far.

An unplanned dinner at Canaletto followed.  This is really the unsung hero of specialty dining on HAL.  Thursday's special is the Veal Saltimbocca.  Take an extra hit of your hypertension meds and do this one anyway because it is the stuff that dreams are made of.

We finished the day with the Oranje Partij.  There were plenty of token efforts.  The party accessories for sale were (pardon the gay sterotype) fabulous.  The themed cocktails range from good (Orange Vesper) to great (Orange and Tonic).  The husky mascot in an Orange Party shirt was fun, and the BB King Blues Club band were nothing short of phenomenal.

The only sobering note to a fantastic day was the presence of a disembarkation package in our mailbox and the reminder that soon will some a sad, sad, sad, sad, sad, sad day.  (The number of "sad"s is prescribed and the rhythm mandatory).

[nw gardener]

Last day...😪. SB on the inside.  Will do a separate quick review after a few days at home.  In short,  nice cruise!

[visagrunt]

The penultimate day (depending upon your arithmetic).

By now you need not be reminded that coffee appeared promptly (perhaps too promptly, in view of the hour lost to the time change) nor that breakfast was its usual delicious self.

An early journey to the Thermal Suite presented the most pressing crowds of the entire voyage--there were fully six people in the thallasotherapy pool with me at one point and during my visit there was a brief moment where every ceramic lounger was occupied.  This phenomenon lasted mere moments as someone elected in that moment to vacate their lounger as the hour for luncheon approached.

Today was a glorious day for the Retreat as the sun made its presence felt.  However, trivia beckoned as I had been neglecting it for the entire cruise.  A valiant effort delivered us 16 of a possible 22 points which earned us a creditable second place.  This was only slightly diminished by one of our travelling companions' immediate recall of the answer to the 4 point bonus question which would have put us over the top.  This is what comes of insufficient team building.

A hot stones massage rounded out the afternoon before we repaired to the Tamarind Bar for the long delayed Shiso Sour.  Most of my companions were lifting Wasabis.

Tamarind was the only annoyance of the cruise for I heard a phrase I don't think I have ever heard from a HAL crew member:  "we don't allow..."  This was in relation to starters.  Our server was quite emphatic that they provided a three course dinner with a starter, a main and a dessert.  When pressed on the question of ordering multiple appetizers we were not offered an upcharge, but a flat out refusal.  So we can order an extra main course for the published upcharge of $10 but we can't order an extra starter?!  Pinnacle Grill has the unmitigated gall to charge $7 for those who wish to indulge in a soup and a salad, but at least they permit it.

The inhospitable response was mitigated with an offer to bring some extra starters for the table to share (which was, frankly, all we had been wanting) but it was handled in such a cack handed fashion that it rather soured the evening.

This is compounded by the fact that we remember what Tamarind was like with the old "Elements" menu.  The current offerings include some pretty anodyne offerings which are about as Asian as Panda Express--just better prepared and presented.  Our next HAL cruise is on Westerdam and I might not miss Tamarind so much as I thought.

It really is a shame to end the last full day on a sour note, and I shall endeavour to have much more positive reports of our last breakfast in CO and our disembarkation experience to finish this report off!  This cruise has been excellent in all other respects and deserves a much finer send off that this!

[oakridger]

Enjoy the last evening and morning!  I'll be back to read your final thoughts.

 

~Nancy

[ConnieTact]

I’ve enjoyed reading your live review. We are in Alaska next May and loved looking at your photos. Thanks for sharing them. All the best for your disembarkation and have a safe journey home.

[visagrunt]

Quick note to say a new personal best:  off the ship and into a cab in under 10 minutes.

[visagrunt]

Sorry for the delay in concluding this report, but it seems that I brought a stowaway back with me from the ship.  Two negative covid tests, so I'm thinking it's RSV.  

I solemly undertake to finish this (and post photos/videos) once my symptoms abate.

[oakridger]

@visagrunt Please take care of yourself and don't push it to finish the review.  We can wait!!!

 

 

Feel better,

~Nancy