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Dinner at the grill a la parka. As I was afraid we might ignite in our polyester thinsulate, the chef cooked for us. A few hardy souls were there and actually the heat lamps made it warm enough. The experience of hot rocks is so different. While the food is similar we miss the live music. Bruce and other canned music played in the background. And the times they are achangin

Now on our way to Uunartoq Island, where pax may get off, take a short hike, and swim or bobble in a thermal spring. Lunch at the grill was quite popular even with the cool temperatures. Plenty of blankets to be had and heat lamps. As always the crew are attentive and personable. I asked for a poke bowl and was told i would need to give 24 hours notice, then to my surprise, the chef made it for me anyway. Kudos to the chef.

Nanortalik. Charming and colorful and cold.

Greenland is not for sale, note to some who are trying to buy it. While one may buy real estate the land does not come with it. There is no private property ownership in Greenland. The island is considered part of the realm of Denmark but is an autonomous nation. Eighty-eight percent of Greenlanders are Inuit or mixed Danish and Inuit( Kalaallit). The rest of the population are of European descent. The population of Greenland in 2021 was about 56,653. There is a race to exploit the natural resources of Greenland, as there are light and heavy rare earth elements, as well as zinc,lead,iron ore,gold,copper and oil. No roads exist to connect settlements to each other, travel is by plane,boat,helicopter,snowmobile or dogsled.

Nanortalik, Greenland. The fog has lifted. We wended our way in threading the needle past some rocky islands. We are anchored and the first zodiacs are going to shore, an anticipated dry landing. It's windy and cold. Activities in the village include an open air museum and the opportunity to hear a choir. There will be handicrafts for purchase, no bartering allowed, as it is bad form.

Morning from Greenland. And then after I took a few more photos, the dreaded fog arrived from the direction of our stern, moving forward and obliterating the view.

At our debriefing today we learned that Hurricane Lee may pose a threat to our itinerary but there are alternative plans in place. We don't know yet what they are as any changes will be contingent on the trajectory of the storm. The weather has been sunny with blue skies and little wind. It is cold, right now 33.8F or 1C. As we leave the Sound and head into the Labrador Sea, the winds are 38.2 knots, picking up. The passengers are upbeat and enjoying all that the Cloud has to offer. The expedition crew are wonderfully energetic and knowledgeable.

Sun is lower in the sky as we make our way to Nanortalik.

The water is blue.

And around us it seems there are castles with turrets stretching, rising to the sky, starkly forbidding and dramatically imposing to all who dare venture here. Protecting inhabitants and warning others. This is a land that will conquer you if you cannot adapt.

It really is amazing

Still in transit to the Inuit Village, and its really cold for us.

Some of the terrain. I like the mountain with the big circular dent. Doesn't look like a volcanic cone but more that something came out of the mountain, maybe we will find it up ahead. We continue forward, quietly.

Just before we entered the Sound were many icebergs, waiting for their chance to enter the sea.

On our way to Aappilattoq, Greenland via Prince Christian Sound. Aappilattoq is a small village of about 100 inhabitants, named for a sea anemone in Inuit language. At the village we will anchor and zodiac to a dock for a dry landing. Some pax will take a strenuous hike, others a medium hike and there is a opportunity for a meander. We have been warned not to venture too far out on the tundra. A church choir will give two performances, as the church only holds 100 parishioners at a time. On side of the passage are towering mountains, and there are frequent icebergs as at least two fjords feed icebergs from a glacier into the sound. One can see snow at certain elevations. There are no trees, just rock and some green mosses and lichen at times. Below is the weather station located at the beginning of the Sound.

Like snowflakes no two alike, they are inhabitants of the sea, some bobbing up and down, others just gliding soundlessly by. Others stationary, enormous and as we know, menacing. I am told that just under the surface of the water, they are often twice the size of what one observes above.

In the company of icebergs, the sea and mountains. Greenland, unspoiled.

Witnessing this small iceberg undulate in the sea made it seem alive, it was showing off its wares. We are being followed by some seabirds but they are a bit camera shy or I am not quick enough to capture them. 20230910_145435.mov

Today there were no wet landings, those will be coming up. There really wasn’t anywhere to “land”, other than the drink. Boarding the zodiacs today was a good practice session.

there are so many enormous icebergs, it boggles the mind.

Lunch outdoors at La T

Yesterday was a sea day, partly devoted to some lectures on safety and zodiacs as well as respect for the fragile arctic environment. We also had our gear inspected to be certain that we were not bringing any foreign substances to the shore. Many pax were tired because the first night of our cruise leaving Iceland was quite rough, rainy and blustery. The ship is full. And full as well, of energy and anticipation of exploring this part of our amazing world. And this day has not disappointed. The sky was bright by 5 am or perhaps a bit before. Nor wind or clouds, blue sky and perfectly calm waters as we approached the entrance to the fjord around 7 am. The expedition leader Gert, pronounced differently, advised that the first group of three zodiacs would leave the ship around 1030 ish and get close to the glacier. The next group would follow around 1230 pm. There will be no landings today. We are anchored close to the top of the fjord. The water is a blue green and some surrounding cliffs drop steeply to the water. Some of the mountain sides have greenish brown moss or lichen. Snow caps are high up on the mountain tops. Valleys have been carved by retreating ice, which we have seen as we came to this place. There is a large landslide directly opposite the port side of the ship, and the kayakers cane be see exploring it from the water. The glacier itself is in front of the ship, and the water is littered with its bits. In short, magical.

Thrum glacier