John and Diane's Amazing Adventure - Part II

[Johnny B]

January 10 – Day 5

 

Do you like Chinese food? If you do, one of the best places to find it, strangely enough, is in Costa Rica! Yesterday we docked in Puerto Limon, Costa Rica, a small port town about two hours from San Jose. It was warm and sunny (finally!) and we skipped shore excursions to just wander around town. Limon could be any small town in Latin America: people are friendly and laid-back and the shops are small and open to the street. A beautiful tropical park with banyan and kapok trees is the border between town and the ocean. In the middle of town there is a market with incredibly attractive produce, meats and other products.

 

We had agreed to meet Woody, Susie and Barbie for lunch in town, and when we received our walkie-talkie message, we headed to the restaurant across from the park with the “Internet” sign in front. The dining room was open to the street and the first thing we saw was tables full of crew members enjoying a leisurely lunch. Later we learned that if you want to find the best Chinese food in town, you ask a crew member. Whether Indonesian or Filipino, crew members know where to eat. We ordered beer and a large plate of seafood fried rice to share. It was delicious, and it was ever so much fun to dangle squid tentacles in front of Woody, since he can’t stand the things. Lunch was great.

 

I think anyone who has traveled by ship knows that most ships’ cabins are, shall we say, limited in space. Even our verandah cabin is only about 300 square feet. Last night’s cocktail party, given by Greg and Heo, was in their suite, which is exactly twice the size of ours. The seventh floor is really cruise heaven. The cabins are spacious, they have walk-in closets as well as balconies twice the size of ours, with two lounge chairs, a snack table, and a table and four chairs. In the middle of the seventh floor is the Mariners’ Lounge, where breakfast, snacks, soft drinks and newspapers are freely available. There is also a concierge who is happy to look after your every need. When asked what they would do after winning the lottery, most people would buy a house or an expensive car; I’d book a seventh floor verandah suite for a world cruise.

 

There was a choice of beer, wine, or soft drinks as well as the hors d’oeurvres that are complimentary in suites. There were about 16 or 18 people there, but it wasn’t crowded. Had it been in our cabin, we would have had to put people in the bathroom and closets!

 

Today was our transit of the Panama Canal, always an exciting event. One of the joys of having a verandah cabin is that it’s possible to watch the morning transit of Gatun Locks in a bathrobe. I know that I always believed that the transit was east to west (or vice versa), but it’s actually north to south (like today) or south to north. For those of you who haven’t done this, the ship sails into the first set of locks at Gatun and traverses those for about an hour, then entering into Gatun Lake. We sailed through the lake for almost four hours before entering Pedro Miguel Locks , which only take about 40 minutes. A half hour later we entered Miraflores Locks for another hour of transit, and finally, about a half hour ago we left the Panama Canal.

 

At 7:00 PM we shall drop anchor off Amador, for Panama City, where anyone who wishes may go ashore by tender. Our merry band of friends, however, is planning a “sail-in” (rather than a sailaway) party for one of the aft decks at that time. It will be the same fine group that gathered last evening in the suite, but this time we will have a slightly less imposing, but still wonderful location. Life is good.

[Kween Karen]

I will be following along on your wonderful adventure...........this is one I would like to do some day........need to get the shorter ones done first!!

Hope the journey is MARVELOUS!!

[Johnny B]

January 12 – Day 7 (I love those low, low numbers)

(This was supposed to be posted yesterday but we stayed up too late)

 

When I looked out the window yesterday morning, I thought we were in Manhattan. The skyscrapers were incredibly tall and there were dozens and dozens of them. I remembered from our last cruise, however, that this was Panama City, with almost half of the city built of skyscrapers on fill land.

 

After the crowds had finished lining up for tender passes, we heard the announcement we’d been waiting for: “There is no wait for the tenders now.” We hurried down seven floors to the boarding area, took the 10-minute tender into Amador, and we were at the “front doorstep” of Panama City. Thinking we would take a cab into the “Old City,” we found one, but when offered the chance to have the taxi driver take us the considerable distance into the city, show us both the old and new cities, and then drive us back – all for the price of just the taxi ride – we took him up on it.

 

Old Panama was charming. The streets were, as expected, small and winding, and the buildings were brightly colored and attractive. The cathedral, in the middle of Old Town, was huge and open and its walls were decorated with paintings and then photographs of the bishops who had served it since the 1600’s. It was interesting for two people from San Luis Obispo to see pictures of, for example, Fr. Juan Carlos Donastera, secondo Obispo de la Ciudad de Panama.

 

The new city was interesting too, and while we thought the skyscrapers were business buildings, it turns out that they are primarily condominiums purchased by people from North America as retirement homes. The attractions are the weather and the low cost of living. We even had a stop at a supermercado to pick up a 12-pack of Diet Coke.

 

Panama is an extremely multi-cultural city, with people of all colors, nationalities and religions. There is even a large mosque in the middle of town, and our guide told us that many people from other South American nations come to Panama because of the large amount of construction going on.

 

We were back to the ship in time for lunch, a nap, and a great deal of reading. My new Kindle is keeping me occupied and I’m almost done with Wolf Hall, a novel about England in the time of Henry VIII.

 

This morning was set aside for packing. Tomorrow we leave the ship for four nights – an independent overland to Quito, Cusco, and Machu Picchu. The weather reports are all over the place so we don’t really know what to pack, but we do know that this is the rainy season, so our rain jackets are tucked away in our one (shared) suitcase. We’ll let you know how it goes.

[Kween Karen]

I hope you enjoy your 4 night overland. I have never done anything which involved totally leaving the ship. It should be an adventure for sure.

[I&J Cruisers]

Looking forward to hearing about your overland trip. Sounds exciting. How much space did you save by taking your kindle? How many books did you load for this trip? When I used mine out of the country last spring and you couldn't use the whispernet but I've read that that has changed. Are you getting service? Enjoy.

Irene

[Johnny B]

If we´re on vacation, why are we getting up at 5 AM? Oh yes, we´re on our way to Machu Picchu - but it´s still dark out!

 

Since there were no taxis available, we hitched a ride to the airport on a tour bus. We learned quite a bit about Ecuador on the 15-minute ride to the airport: it´s the world´s largest supplier of tuna and a major supplier of shrimpñ there are the obvious problems of being on Columbia´s border; and it will one day be the doorway to Brazil, across the Andes.

 

After a 30-minute(!) flight to Quito, we arrived to sunny skies and a warm day. We were met by Antonio, our driver-guide for the day and headed directly out to the equator. In the 19th Century, a Frenchman erected a monument on the ´equator´, but when they checked it by GPS about 15 years ago, they found out where the REAL equator was. That was the one we visited, and it was fascinating. It was more of a cultural park fashioned after an indiginous village. We went into a hut whih was built before the Spanish conquest and it´s still intact. It even has a corner to keep that Ecuadorian and Peruvian gourmet treat: guinea pig (or cuy, as it is called locally). We have been told they taste like rabbit (what? not chicken?), but I don´t know if I´ll try one or not.

 

We then went outside to the actual line of the equator and performed experiments. Our favorite was watching water in a basin go out the bottom. On ´the line´it flowed straight out, six feet to the south it went clockwise, and si feet north it went counter clockwise. We had heard it, but today we became believers. The best thing about the exact equator is that the gravity is different there, so one weighs a full KILO less. I wanted to stay, but, oh well.

 

Antonio drove us all over Quito, but our favorite was the old city and its beautiful churches. One that we visited was Quito´s youngest, at 155 years old. The most spectacular was Compania, or "The Golden Church" where virtually every surface was covered either with gold leaf or just plain gold. It must be worth a fortune!

 

We had to get to the airport 2 and a half hours early, but it allowed us to read, write, and meet James Robertson, a congenial Englishman from Kent, who has so much jet lag from flying here from London via the US and then turning arund to go home before he´s over it that I don´t know why he doesn´t just curl up in a ball on the floor and sleep. (Hi, James)}

 

Now we´re on our 2 hour flight to Lima and all I can think about is that I hope they feed us! We spend the night and then on to Cuzco tomorrow. Can´t wait.

[vino100]

Thanks for sharing your trip .Looking forward to your Machu Pichu report.

[Johnny B]

Another early morning. After leaving Quito, which we were told was the very first World Heritage City, we flew to Lima last night. Early, early this morning we headed for our usual two-hour airport wait and then a flight to Cuzco, the early capital of the Quechua (not Inca - more later) empire and then, for awhile, the Spanish.

 

We were taken to Monasterio, our wonderful hotel which used to be the monastery behind the cathedral. Now it has a marvelous location a block away from the main square in the city center. We were told to get lots of rest because of the altititude, have lunch and look around the hotel - and we had an hour to do it!

 

Our tour took us first to the cathedral (in the rain) where we were told that the culture and people were Quechua and that Inca meant only the king. We saw some beautiful (what we thought was) European religious art, but it had been painted by Quechua artists. My favorite painting was "The Last Supper." It was distinctive in two ways: Judas had the face of Francisco Pizarro, and the main dish, on a platter in the middle of the table, was cuy, or guinea pig. (Who knew?)

 

<i wore a rainjack over a tee-shirt and nearly froze to death, but the real health problems belonged to people who had altitude sickness. Cuzco is over 11,000 feet, and it causes several effects: headaches, lightheadedness, disorientation and nausea. Two kids on our tour passed out cold and had smelling salts administered. Afterward, they had to chew coca leaves and breathe pure oxygen. Chewing the leaves and drinking coca tea are the usual preventative measures, but because our brother and sister-in-law had terrible problems with altitude when they came to M. P, we opted for altitude sickness pills, two a day, beginning two days before flying into the mountains. We had slight headaches, but nothing even remotely troubling. Better life through chemistry again!

 

Our tour continued to a Quechua temple with a Catholic church built atop. The Quechua stonework, without mortar, withstood six centuries of earthquakes, but the church tumbled in the first one.

 

We drove out of town to what would have been amazing places, had I not felt like a popcicle, and toward the end, I just wanted to go back to my lovely hotel and have a hot bath - which I did. Pizza(!) finished out the evening and tomorrow is Machu Picchu, the whole reason for this four-day, sleep-deprived trip.

[Johnny B]

Today was the earliest day of all at 4:30 AM, but do you hear me complaining? Absolutely not. Machu Picchu made every early second totally worth it.

 

Our ride to the train station, 20 minutes out of town, came at 5:50, and our train left right on time at 6:53. We took "The Vistadome" train, unwilling to settle for "The Backpacker," but not ready to pay several hundred more dollars for "The Hiram Bingham." Heck, we even had a continental breakfast partway to Machu Picchu.

 

The scenery en route was, as can be imagined, spectacular. There were bright green seemingly sharpened mountains reaching into the clouds. The river, responding to the recent rains, looked like liquid mud jumping and attacking itself. Small thatched huts formed villages near the river, and the numbers of Quechua stone buildings increased along with our altitude.

 

After three hours, we arrived in Aguas Calientes and found the ever-present placard with our name on it. I guess "St. John" is difficult, because it`s been "Smith John," "John John," and closest of all, "St. Jhon." Our two small bags (there´s an 8 kg. limit on the train) were taken from us to be delivered to the hotel, and we boarded a small bus and headed 30 minutes up winding switchbacks (is that redundant?) to the entry of Machu Picchu. Our small group met Paul, our guide, and we entered an area with small stone thatched huts surrounded by fog. I wondered, "What`s the big deal?" but then we came out the other side of a hut and it was indeed a big deal. We were literally stopped in our tracks by the view. We`ve all seen the standard photo of Machu Picchu, but when you`re standing there watching it, with fog swirling around the mountains, it really takes your breath away (especially at this altititude). We saw terraces, homes, temples used as astronomical devices, and lots and lots of llamas, including one three days old and about two feet tall. We walked up steps and down steps and, even as a wannabe runner, it really took it out of me. Because it`s the rainy season, sunshine was more a threat than a reality, but the rain created greens deeper than Crayola ever imagined.

 

After our two-hour morning tour, we were tired and hungry, so we decided to check into our hotel, Sanctuary, not 50 feet from Machu Picchu`s entrance. When we found out that not only was breakfast included, but also lunch and dinner, we did the "happy dance." The nicest thing is that these folks make you feel like you DID pay - a lot.

 

After lunch it was naptime and then back into MP (a ticket is good for a whole day with multiple entrances). We climbed to the very top (huff, puff) for more spectuacular views. We found that the crowds really thin out in the afternoon. Many people suggest going back for sunrise, but we´ll be able to see it out our window (!) - if indeed it`s visible. Our guide said that it probably wouldn`t be this time of the year. My watch is set for 5:30 - just in case.

 

After we found out that three meals a day were included, we also found out that most bar drinks, wine, beer and soft drinks were also included, even including one I had wanted to try called "InKa Cola." Such a deal! We had pisco sours before dinner and the waiter even brought me the famous Inka Cola to try. It smells just like bubble gum and tastes a lot like cream soda - not exactly my cup of tea, so to speak.

 

Our dinners were superb. I had the salmon special, but the news flash is that John had the filet of alpaca. Before you throw up all over your computer screen, it tasted like a cross between lamb and pork. It really was good - and I just had a little taste.

 

Tomorrow is a sleep-in day unless there`s a spectacular sunrise. I`ve got my watch alarm (which John never hears) set for 5:30, so if it`s disappointing it will be right back to bed for a couple more hours. A sunrise update will be forthcoming.

[2552phxcrzr]

John and Diane: Sounds like you're having a great time in the "Land of the Warm Valley People." We were there for two weeks in April last year and really enjoyed Andean Peru. Glad to hear you did not have any adverse effects from the altitude, especially considering the short time you had in country.

 

For those who want to see the "Last Supper" painting John and Diane mention in their post, go to photo #45 in this album http://eenusa.smugmug.com/South-America/Peru/CuscoStroll-Around-TownPart-I/9046190_fsUFr#602382909_SMH7R. There are links at the top of the gallery to specific places in Cusco, including the Qoricancha, the Inca tample with the Church of Santo Domingo built on top that they mention.

 

Machu Picchu photos can be found at: http://eenusa.smugmug.com/South-America/Peru/Machu-Picchu/10082576_YPQLH#695831582_7FN3j. The site is truly worthy of being known as one of the new seven wonders of the world.

[Cruisergal1208]

John and Diane,

You certainly have a way with words. I am enjoying your blog so much as I have wished to do a WC for a long time. Do not think we will ever get to M P as my husband has heart problems and has a pacemaker. Eagerly await your next posting.

Mary Ann in Georgia

[Johnny B]

January 16

 

Our guide was right. It took only a brief peek out the window at 5:30 AM to notice two things: I couldn´t even SEE the mountain (you know, the one in all the photos), and there must have been a couple hundred people huddled in the cold, drippy morning waiting to get in at 7:00. What are they thinking? I think most of them are waiting for the sunrise that they sure as heck weren´t going to see today!

 

As promised, I hid under the covers again and we got our best night´s sleep since we left the ship. The loss of sleep was WELL worth it, though. We´d do it again in a second, including staying at Sanctuary Lodge, the only hotel at Machu Picchu´s doorstep. I know it´s more expensive, but how many times are you going to be there? Besides, you have to remember those pisco sours, Inca Cola (I spelled it wrong last time), and all the other things that are included.

 

We stayed on the (free) computers for awhile this morning, posting and catching up on email and Facebook. It was still impossible to see anything, so we didn{t go into Machu Picchu today. Our train was scheduled to leave Aguas Calientes at 3:20, so John, who thinks "on time" means ten minutes early, decided we should take the 11:00 bus down the hill. It does take 25 minutes, you know. The road is so windy and steep, and I´ve heard way too much about mountainside bus accidents in South America, so I refused to look outside the bus all the way down.

 

Aguas Calientes is the location of almost all of the hotels and hostels for people going to Machu Picchu. It is also THE shopping destination in the area, with dozens of booths run by people who don´t bug you. We found what we thought were great gifts for the kids (no hints, Courtney) and, after a lovely two-hour interlude reading at the station, we were on the train and on our way to Cuzco (which, by the way, is spelled Cusco in Spanish).

 

Before we arrived in Peru, I wondered how we´d fill three hours each way on the train. I needn´t have worried. The hour nearest Machu Picchu is beautifully verdant rain forest, with trees that have vines that would make Tarzan proud. Speaking of heroes, the discoverer of Machu Picchu, Hiram Bingham, is said to be the model for Indiana Jones.

 

After we leave the rain forest, we continue along the wonderfully wild muddy river (which eventually feeds into the Amazon). There are trees with orchids growing on them, gigantic mountains, varieties of flowering cactus and hundreds of other plants, including eucalyptus. I´m not a botanist, but I am impressed. My friend Keri, who IS a botanist, would go nuts over this place.

 

There is also entertainment on the train. First they fed us, and then just as everyone (well I was, anyway) was dozing off in a little nap, the music began blasting and someone in a white knitted traditional mask and colorful custume danced up and down the aisles, carrying a baby llama (or its toy counterpart). After that, there was a fashion show of knit alpaca clothing, followed by a sale of said clothing. Never a dull moment.

 

We arrived safely back in Cuzco, were delivered to our hotel, shared an $18.00 club sandwich (ouch!) and so to bed.

[cruz chic]

I really enjoyed hearing about your tour of Machu Picchu. I decided against going there last year when my cruise was docked in Lima for 3 days. I did not want to take the chance of missing the cruise by booking my own tour. I heard the transportation is not very reliable. I think I recall you saying you arranged your own tour. If so is the ship docked for more then 3 days. HAL also wanted $3200 per person for the trip and I thought the price was way too steep. I had a knee injury before I went on the cruise and didn't want to take the chance this would be wasted money.

[Johnny B]

Hi Lorekauf - We did plan our own trip through a company called LatinAmerica4Less.com. We left the ship in Manta, Ecuador and are rejoining today (second of a two-day stay). The tour cost us each about $2500, but we stayed at the best hotels available and, for the most part, had private drivers and guides. You can do it a lot cheaper, but I doubt if we´ll be back, so we wanted to do the whole 9 yards. Hope this helps.

[Johnny B]

We were asked about our Kindle (electronic reading device from Amazon), and basically, this is how it has affected us. Last WC, we brought about 30 books (and one or both of us actually READ them!) This time we brought about 10 actual books, but we´ve got 15 books on the Kiindle - it will hold up to 1500 (says the literature.) I think it´s a great idea for a long cruise or vacation of any sort. It saves all kinds of luggage space and weight and it´s really easy to use.

[Deb C.]

Do the local children still race the bus down the winding hills from Machu Picchu? It was entertaining to say the least. Of course they met us as we disemarked our buses with their hands open for a tip!!!:D Deb C.

[janmcn]

My husband and son will be going to MP in June. Where did you get "soles" and if so, where/what did you need them for? How much did you need for this little trip (theirs will be short, too...but will be staying at the Sanctuary, taking the Vistadome, etc.)

LOVE your descriptions of everything! Next...your book!

[cruz chic]

Hi Lorekauf - We did plan our own trip through a company called LatinAmerica4Less.com. We left the ship in Manta, Ecuador and are rejoining today (second of a two-day stay). The tour cost us each about $2500, but we stayed at the best hotels available and, for the most part, had private drivers and guides. You can do it a lot cheaper, but I doubt if we´ll be back, so we wanted to do the whole 9 yards. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it:).

[Johnny B]

January 18 – Day 13

 

The most common question we get from people who find out that we’ll be on board ship for 114 days is, “Don’t you get bored?” I think it’s like asking someone who’s retired, “What do you do with all your time?”

 

If anything, there’s more to do than anyone has time for. Of course, one does have the option of doing absolutely nothing, and I’m sure some people take advantage of it, but most are seen scuttling around the decks, asking questions like, “Is the beginning bridge lecture in the Wajang Theatre or the Hudson Room?” I guess a good way to illustrate a day is to tell you about ours.

 

We usually get up around 7:00 and head directly for the gym for about 45 minutes - have to do something to work off the food. Then we go to the Lido for breakfast. After showering, we have several choices: we can go to Tai Chi with Robert and Bronwyn (who are very funny Aussies), a Bible study class with the Protestant minister, take a watercolor class, play onboard sports, attend a program on the building of the newest HAL ship, the Nieuw Amsterdam, go to a bridge lecture (somewhere), play paddle tennis or volleyball, listen to the Exploration Speaker, a woman who had written three books on Latin America and received three Fulbrights for study, get digital help from Jeff, or learn “The Art of Napkin Folding” with the cruise hostess. As you can see, there is an amazing variety of activities, and that’s only in the morning.

 

At 12:00, it’s Trivia! Our team of six includes Barbie, Eloise, the two of us, Hannah (who has degrees from Harvard and Cambridge) and a rotating sixth member. Bruce, the cruise director, is in charge this year and his questions are HARD! We are asked fifteen questions and then a “genius” question. Scores are tallied, prizes given, and a grand prize will be given at the end of the cruise for the highest total.

 

We almost always have lunch next to the indoor Lido pool, with musical accompaniment by the ship’s band. Afterwards, the choices begin again: digital workshop on editing your cruise photos, “Ask the Rabbi” with Rabbi Mintz, Martini Mixology, a movie in the Wajang Theatre (complete with popcorn), duplicate Bridge, dance class, arts and crafts, Barbershop and Sweet Adelines, afternoon tea, Friends of Bill, and various sports on Deck 9. Phew, I get tired just writing about it.

 

If you haven’t read anything here that interests you, then maybe this cruise isn’t for you – but I doubt it.

[janmcn]

Whew! I'm pooped!

[Johnny B]

January 19 – Day 14

 

I imagine everyone has a mental picture of a desert: dry, sandy, and filled with dunes. Arica, Chile (pronounced a-REE-ka) is at the edge of the Atacama Desert, arguably the driest place on earth, but doesn’t fit my mental image of a desert. This area looks a lot like Baja California. As we docked at 7:00 this morning, we could look out our windows and see absolutely barren hills and a smallish town, guarded by a huge rock called “El Moro.” We live near Morro Bay, California, so we have our own Morro Rock, “Morro” meaning “headland.”

 

We found a small market in the main town square and then walked out of the square into a church designed by – of all people – Gustav Eiffel (of Tower fame). He never saw Arica and actually designed the church for another city, but when it was shipped, this is where it arrived. It is called San Marco and it’s like a cross between a Hawaiian missionary church and an English country church. Inside, the beams are held up by curving metal pieces reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower. It really is quite lovely.

 

There is a large pedestrian area in the downtown area which encourages almost an Italian passagiata feeling. There are local shops as well as the requisite McDonalds and Blockbuster. The only cute thing about the Micky D’s is the little hut in front of the restaurant which serves their ice cream cones. There were a few tee-shirt shops, but most stores catered to the local people. There certainly seemed to be a lot of banks and pharmacies. The local currency is the peso, and there are 500 to a dollar. It reminds me of Italy in the lira days.

 

After a couple hours of wandering and sightseeing, we returned to the ship in time for lunch, since nothing onshore caught our eye (or tastebuds). As we ate lunch, we were gradually joined by three or four shipboard friends, and some new friends we met in Cuzco wandered by to chat for awhile. That’s one of the great things about being onboard for an extended cruise – you meet new people, or re-meet (is that a word) old friends, and such good friendships develop and you learn lots more about the people you’re traveling with.

 

It’s almost 3:00, and that’s shore-day trivia time. At sea, trivia is “serious” (rather an oxymoron, don’t you think?) and at 12:00 Noon, but on shore days it’s just fun, with no scores kept and it’s not until 3:00.

 

I think we’re both just about recovered from Machu Picchu, and we’re looking forward to our Cruise Critic luncheon tomorrow, organized by HappyGlobeTrotter, who has taken the leadership of this particular group. We’re both looking forward to it.

[Johnny B]

January 20 – Day 15

 

A few unrelated ramblings:

 

One of the best things about ports is having sailaways. All Aboard time is usually 30 minutes before departure, and then people tend to gather on the aft Lido deck and watch the ship pull up the gangplank and, after “tooting its horn,” the ship pulls out of the harbor and heads for open sea. There is always a “drink of the day” and waiters pass hot hors d’oeuvres. I guess in order to do this cruise one must love the sea, and it’s always rewarding to set sail yet again.

 

Today was the first Cruise Critic luncheon. We had had a “meet and greet” but this was a good opportunity to sit with a group of people you didn’t know before and get to know them a little better. We sat with six very nice new people and had a great lunch.

It was funny to watch people scamper from table to table setting up shore excursions and making other plans. It’s a great way to get to know people.

 

Today we’re between Arica and Coquimbo, Chile. It’s pretty dreary outside, even though it’s full summer here. This morning we got cappuccino and headed to the Crow’s Nest for an hour or so of reading. It was a perfect day for a nap, so that was the order of the afternoon. Tomorrow we have scheduled a shore excursion with our “Specialist” cruise agents to a winery and then somewhere reportedly charming for lunch.

 

And last, but not least, Charlie and Betty asked to say hi to their kids.

[Johnny B]

January 21 – Day 16

Coquimbo, Chile

 

One of the nice things about this long a cruise is that you get to learn about places you never even heard of. I tried to get a weather forecast for Coquimbo, Chile and the New York Times had never even heard of it. Nevertheless, we sailed in early this morning to what looked like California coastal fog – and sure enough, by noon it had burned off.

 

Coquimbo is a port about 6 hours by car north of Santiago, and it sits at one end of a perfect little bay which provides excellent shelter for shipping. This is the port out of which a great deal of Chile’s mined minerals are shipped, as well as almost all of their grapes for export. On the other side of the bay is La Serena, a beautiful little beach town and resort.

 

We weren’t quite sure what to do today, so when we heard our “Specialists” had a shore excursion which involved wine tasting, we said, “Where do we sign up?” The two main activities of the tour were to be a tour of the Tabali winery and luncheon at a hacienda. We took off at about 8:30, deep in the fog, and drove about an hour and a half to the winery. It looked so much like one of the wineries near us on the Central Coast it was scary. It seems that this particular winery is owned by a man who had way too much money, and he really wanted another “toy,” so he built Tabali in the valley in which his mother had grown up. The other claim to fame of the valley is its petroglyphs, one of which is the symbol of the winery.

 

We had the tour of the big metal containers (I know they have a name; I just don’t know it) in which the juice ferments, and then into the room with the oak barrels. They don’t like their wine terribly “oakey,” so they only leave it in the barrels for a comparatively short period of time.

 

We then went into the cellar of the building and saw the most amazing mural. Eight years ago, an 18-year-old local boy with incredible talent spent eight months painting a mural about 150 feet long. It illustrates the history of the valley and the people who lived there, but the faces of the indigenous people in the mural are those of the local people who work at the winery. The young artist is now studying at the Ecole de Beaux Arts in Paris. One of the faces in the mural appeared when we walked upstairs for wine tasting – she was serving the wine!

 

Once we were finished there, we headed to Hacienda Santa Cristina, a beautiful ranch house with manicured gardens, guest houses and a pool. We were greeted with pisco sours and sat outside in the sun, which had finally appeared. Lunch was a series of tasty finger foods, including deep fried goat cheese, mozzarella empanadas, chicken skewers, fish skewers, beef and shrimp skewers (do you see a trend?) and finally, fruit skewers.

It was the perfect lunch, and those pisco sours had most of us ready for a nap on the way back to the ship.

 

Instead of heading right back to the ship, John and I got off in the middle of town to wander through the market. There were the usual things for sale, but the most interesting part was the huge fish market and restaurant. Both were jammed with Chileans and the food looked great, but we were still full from lunch, so no food for us. It was wonderful to meet with so many local people and to practice high school and college Spanish in the bargain. At the market we both commented that this would be a great place to bring a tour group for lunch and shopping but that most tour groups wouldn’t like it. Too many people want to get off the ship, onto a tour bus, go see something, be fed familiar food, and be returned as close to the ship as possible. It’s sad, but true.

 

Oh well, tomorrow is Valparaiso, the port for Santiago. We’re going to practice what we preach and just take ourselves around Valparaiso, seeing as much local “color” as possible and even practicing some more of that Spanish. We’ll let you know how it works.

[Cruisergal1208]

A few years ago on our cruise around S.America, when we stopped at Valparaiso, we did the wine tour and lunch at a hacienda. Wonderful day. Enjoying your blog and look forward to it each day.

Mary Ann

[Fairport]

The next time you are looking for a weather forecast try intellicast.com, I typed in Coquimbo, Chile and the auto complete kicked in, giving a 10 day forecast.