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Almost live heading through Panama Canal


capnpugwash

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I have never experienced weather like that which we are currently experiencing. Visibility is down to 40 or 50 yards and there is light rain falling. We are in what can only be described as Hot Fog. The air temperature is 84 degrees, it is unpleasantly sticky but at least the A/C is functioning normally.

The wind has now increased to Force 5, lowered the temperature to 78 degrees and blown away the fog, the sea has 8 foot swells, we are running parallel to the Isthmus of Panama and there is a very low dark smudge on the port horizon which I believe is land, this is supported by the presence of a few lumps and bumps which are small islands. The forecast is for squally showers which I believe is the standard daily forecast in this area. It is quite pleasant sitting on deck but not really swimming weather. Mrs P who is also working whilst away wants to go shopping for a laptop case on wheels, she really wants one that has a small suitcase section but will still fit in an overhead. We are considering going ashore to the shopping centre which is a cab ride away but we are getting mixed reports on the wisdom and safety of walking around the town. I think that Central and South America are all tricky areas with quite high kidnap and robbery exposure so we may wait for Acapulco, which is probably just as dangerous but we have to get off there to fly home. We have a few hours to decide. One strong argument against going is the Wales vs France rugby match that we hope to have satellite signal for. Wales is well represented by about 300 passengers so I may have to be controversial with my support. Allez les bleus!! In truth it would be very unusual for the Welsh to support England or for the English to support Wales. During the British Lions tour a few years ago in South Africa I found great conflict when Jenkins the Boot was kicking for goal, I really wanted him to score but there was just that little niggle.

Apparently we pass the Artemis tomorrow in the Canal, so lots of hooting and waving will be the order of the day, time to dig out the Union Jacks.

We are just approaching the entrance to the Canal Area, if that is the correct term. It is signified by a tall, pole-like structure either side of a 200 yard gap in what could be described as a low but long harbour wall, the rain has started again, they say that it is warm rain as though that makes any difference, it is still wet rain, and nothing changes that! The wall is better described as a six or ten foot tall breakwater constructed from big rocks and man-made concrete interlocking shapes like the Mercedes badge but without the circle. Once through, the poles are just that but they have big radar reflective mesh affixed to them so they can be identified at night. Within this safe and strangely flat calm haven are about 40 ships, all cargo of all sizes, all anchored awaiting the transit or to depart for some exotic foreign port. Because they are all anchored from the bow, they have all swung to face in the same direction. They could be a flight of ducks or geese flying overhead. They appear so beaten up and rusty, nobody looks after them; they are work horses and are probably only still when loading or unloading. There is what looks like a tramp steamer in the distance and it is sitting at about 40 degrees from the vertical where it has been beached, perhaps accidently in the past. It looks like it could have been yesterday or two years ago. No-one is doing anything to or with it. It might have been impounded for non payment of fees or some other nefarious reason, alternatively the anchor could have dragged in an overnight storm and it just washed up on that particular bit of beach. We will never know.

We are to moor before the canal and are just pulling into our overnight berth, we have been met by all the workmen waving at us, then there was a band with twenty members playing drums, guitars and maracas accompanied by 12 dancers spinning around with dresses that looked circular and patterned as if they were made of the same paper that is used to wrap those little round almond Amaretti biscuits. Very welcoming I must say. We are now tied up and they have announced that we are free to go ashore. With that welcome I think we should go and try to find this suitcase. If you hear no more from me you will know that we made the wrong decision.

The announcement has just been made that the shopping Centre is only a $5 cab ride each from the ship and it is called Quatros Altos so the chances of getting lost are halved now we have to work out if the Spanish for port is porte or whether that is a door. I do know that boat is a barca so how hard can it be. I am waiting for Mrs P, she has gone to email the kids and collect her washing from the two machines in the launderette on our deck. She is in her element and is truly never happier than being in the laundry, honestly. So as long as she is happy I am happy too.

It was an unqualified disaster, typical Latin America. There were plenty of taxi-vans available but none of them wanted to take any small fares and the fare to the shop is set at $5 each. We thought that we would take a city tour at $40 but that didn’t interest the driver and the people handling matters were just kids so it was hopeless. About 150 people floating around wanting go somewhere, 20 taxis looking for work and no-one could put the two together. No wonder they have a welcome band, which may be all they can do.

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Thank You for your daily reports, sorry to hear about your change to schedule

Watching you entering canal just now, weather does not look good

We are joining the ship for the return from Acapulco.

 

We were advised there were 4 Formal nights, are you saying that there are actually only 2 now

 

JC:)

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Paul Daniels, the Magician has a son and he is performing tonight and I was told that he is well worth watching and the best on board. In order to attend the show and not miss out on the quiz we had to have an early dinner which we had in Café Jardin, the restaurant of the 3 star Marco Pierre White. There is a £5 supplement payable and it is very pleasant. We had a bit of a disaster as Mrs P ordered a Blue Cheese Soufflé which was as heavy as a dumpling and when she put a spoon to the Tarte Tatin, the underlying puff pastry was almost raw. Lots of apologies but there was no cash reduction or even the offer of a cognac or something. The Head Waiter in fact said that cheese soufflés are always heavy?? He couldn’t say that pastry in tarts is always raw though. Very unconvincing. My Foie Gras and Fruits de Mer were excellent. This obviously helped the situation a great deal. I am considering writing a letter to protest about it, disgusted of the High Seas. I am certain that Mr White would not be happy to serve raw pastry or stodgy soufflé.

 

The show was excellent; most of the humour was new and modern with just a couple of jokes stolen from other comedians. They were funny anyway and he was very good working an audience. Definitely worth seeing I think.

 

Slept well in anticipation of today’s transit and I woke at about 4.30 which was our scheduled departure time, we ultimately backed off the berth at 5.30 and we are now heading down the river/channel that will lead to the first lock, Gatun. The sun is just rising and the sky is high with wispy clouds, anywhere else I would predict a nice day, here I think it will be very warm and rainy, we shall see.

 

The channel is about 100 yards wide with a row of green flashing lights every 50 yards in the centre to divide the traffic. We arrived at Gatun Lock as scheduled at 6.45am and were assigned to the West Channel. In the other one is a big RORO car transporter which is one of those ships with a vertical stern that looks as though it has been cut in half. It is truly massive. Immediately behind that is the Zuiderdam which is doing a partial transit where the ship comes through this lock and moors in Gatun Lake where passengers are able to get off and go on tours and things. It is rather like sitting in a steam room, very humid indeed and about 82 degrees and it is not 8am yet. No wonder so many men died constructing this edifice. The rain forest is only a yard beyond the security fence and I am sure that it would re-establish itself within a couple of months if it were allowed to.

 

We are at the top level of the Gatun Lock just waiting for the level to rise to allow us to exit into the Lake. This lake has a coastline of 1100 miles and was created by flooding a valley to provide water for the locks. There are a number of islands dotted about the lake and of course they are the tops of hills that existed prior to the flooding. When constructed it was the largest man made lake in the world and that record was only broken by Lake Mead when the Hoover Dam was built. The ship’s decks are packed and people are being very territorial even allowing anyone access to take a photo. The truth is that having been in one lock, all the rest are identical until we reach Miraflores lock when we enter at the highest point and then descend in two steps to the Pacific level.

 

We have come back to our cabin and can see perfectly well. On that point if I were repeating this trip I would definitely book a portside balcony as we have had the best views of things consistently, and if I were on this ship I would get a cabin forward of the forward stairs as everything that we have wanted seems to be accessed from this stairwell.

 

The rain has just started again and although it does look like a shower, but rain is rain. The lake is absolutely silent and so very peaceful.

 

A little canal trivia is that it runs north to south rather than the logical east-west, and the lock gates stand eight storeys high which makes them the largest in the world.

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We have seen Martin Daniels (son of Paul) four times now ...twice on our Transatlantic on Oriana late last year...and he is far funnier than his father ever was...one of the few performances that actually made tears flow down my cheeks !!

 

I am really enjoying reading your blog as a Panama Canal trip is on our list of 'must dos'....

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Hope Mrs. P wasn't too disappointed with her souffle and tart in Cafe Jardin. The supplement paid should be reason enough for them to respond in a more appropriate fashion than what they did. Who ever heard of a heavy souffle referred to as typical, blue cheese or not? A letter sounds like the best course of action for you to set things right. Good news, though, that it appears the show made up somewhat for what sounds like an inferior dining experience.

 

I am watching the webcam now of both the Oceana and Artemis as they approach one another in the canal. Have you got your Union Jacks ready for the rendezvous?

 

Oceana webcam: http://www.pocruises.com/Cruise-Ships/Oceana/Ship-Webcams/

 

Artemis webcam: http://www.pocruises.com/Cruise-Ships/Artemis/Ship-Webcams/

 

Note: We will be meeting a sister ship too on our upcoming Panama Canal cruise when the Celebrity Millennium will rendezvous in the canal with the Infinity on April 20. But I think the US flag will be more appropriate in this situation!

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Hi Thank you for your daily report.

Sorry to hear about your altered schedule

 

I was watching the ship on the Panama Canal webcam,

can't wait to do the transit.

 

We are joining the ship at Acapulco for the return cruise and were advised there were 4 formal nights, are you saying there is actually only 2

 

JC:)

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Hello Capn & Mrs P

It is a joy to read your blog & since the start of your recent voyage, I have been an avid follower; indeed, an update on your adventures is now time-tabled into my evening schedule. I hope that Mrs P is 'having a ball' & buying 'rings 'round her' in port! while the 'other lalf ' relaxes, is still on the go, so I hope she is getting time out!

Keep up the blog, please ... It is so good.

Take care & safe home

Anamaria

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(There are 4 formals, we have had two with two to come)

 

Panamax maximum measurements are Length 965 feet, Beam 106 feet and Draught 39.5 feet. New locks are planned and under construction which will increase these. Plan is to be ready by 2014 and whereas currently the water is moved by gravity, the new ones will be pumped and so be quicker and use much less water.

The rain has now gone and we are just reaching the Pedro Miguel lock which is a single lock rather than a series of steps. So we are about two thirds through. It is 1pm now, the Rugby was on and Ireland beat England. We have entered the lock and the gates are shut behind us, now the water level will fall and we will be 30 feet lower and will sail into the Miraflores Lake. We are moving out and the sky has gone black as a tropical rainstorm starts, I can hear it approaching as great drops of rain hit the concrete roads and tin roofs. It is wonderful especially as I can look out through my balcony door and see it from the dry. A minute in it would soak you to the skin.

Our preconceptions about the canal and its’ environs was that it was bound to be shabby and run down because of its’ location and use. To the contrary, it looks like a well tended military type establishment with white walls and red roofs and no rubbish at all lying about on the well tended lawns. There are stores and cable but it is all neat and tidy. This might be due to the $10m that it earns everyday of the year, 40 ships at $250,000 each which must be paid by certified payment to an agent in Panama 48 hours in advance regardless of who you are.

We are fast approaching the final Miraflores locks, well we are doing just around 4 knots but we are not far away. Trouble is that the rain is falling vertically and to see forward involves leaning out which involves contact with the rain and it is heavier if anything than anything that I have ever seen. The rain did ease as we entered the lock and we went down the stepped locks smoothly and without incident. There is a large six storey building which is the Visitor Centre. As we passed it the balconies on each floor and every covered area was filled with about 600 people shouting and waving to welcome us. The Captain sounded the horn half a dozen times which raised more cheers. It was a really pleasant end to our transit.

We sailed further towards the Pacific and as we approached Panama City we offloaded the two pilots and their 12 assistants. These are called linesmen and they hook up the steel cables that connect the ship to the mules to ensure the safe passage in the centre of each lock. They operate at the front, middle and stern of the ship.

We have had the benefit of an on board narrator since we started the transit and he has made it much more interesting as he is very knowledgeable, he was put off at the same time.

We sailed under the Bridge of the Americas into the ocean. This bridge is the route for the Pan American Highway that runs almost uninterrupted the length of North, Central and South America. It is interrupted strangely in Panama by a stretch of jungle and this is called the Darien Gap. I have no idea how a driver negotiates this anomaly but they obviously manage to do so. My bet is that the gap won’t last much longer before a highway is pushed through.

We are in a sheltered bay and have dropped anchor and are being refuelled by a bunkering service. We have been here for over two hours and I have no idea how much longer we will be here. We have two sea days beginning tomorrow as we head for Puerto Quetzal in Guatemala.

I am going for a pre dinner drink now as I have had a busy old day.

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CapnPugwash said:

 

Our preconceptions about the canal and its’ environs was that it was bound to be shabby and run down because of its’ location and use. To the contrary, it looks like a well tended military type establishment with white walls and red roofs and no rubbish at all lying about on the well tended lawns. There are stores and cable but it is all neat and tidy.

 

I believe that there were expectations that when the Panamanians took over full operational of the canal from the Americans in 1999, thigns would deteriorate. In fact under Panamanian control the canal has remained in good order, and on certain measures of performance, e.g the time taken to pass through it, management of the canal may have improved since 1999. The enhancement of the canal, with wider locks so that it can take larger ships, has been undertaken since the Panamanian takeover.

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(We saw the Artemis as we passed in a lake but we no sooner saw her than she was gone, we passed at about 40 knots.)

 

Dinner was quite nice although 2 of our number didn’t turn up but had left information that they were eating elsewhere. Last night Mrs P telephoned the Maitre D’ at 6.15pm to advise that we were going to eat at Café Jardin and asked him to pass the message on. We find out tonight that he didn’t do it so the table waited 5 or 10 minutes for us, I hate keeping people waiting but this guy let us down, now tonight no-one knows anything about it.

 

We are still at anchor as midnight approaches and the sea is very calm and the air quite balmy. The refuelling has just finished as they are now recovering their lines and the oiler is pulling away. So six hours to refuel makes my weekly trip to the petrol station insignificant. I wonder if P&O shop around for the best pump price if the Captain takes the Nectar Points on his credit card.

 

At some time during the night we started our northerly track up the West Coast. It feels strange to have crossed from the east to the west coast of the USA by travelling less than 50 miles, but that is precisely what we have done. In the past I have driven a borrowed car from Dallas to San Francisco and made the journey by plane more times than I care to remember. This one is extra special; we have been through the Panama Canal. The Pacific is being just that, no big waves or swells and not much wind. I don’t know what to expect from the weather, should it be similar to the Caribbean, or is that heat all in the past, I hope not. I just looked at the Navigation Screen on the TV and it shows showers later but with 82 degrees, so that’s not bad. Weirdest thing is that we are just leaving the Bay of Panama and heading just north of west. I had expected to have made the turn North by now but we are still under the heel of Costa Rica. This is where our favourite coffee comes from, Terrazzu or something very similar, smooth and satisfying to the last drop.

 

The newspaper is full of activities to offer diversion but I feel that I may adhere to my usual daily practice plus I might give Deck Quoits a go, I have tried Shuffleboard before and in a very wimp like display I was unable to push the block up to the target area with the paddle. I just didn’t have the knack so I will preserve my dignity and play quoits with the old ladies. I expect to be soundly beaten

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Thanks Captain for your daily blogs, I have just read the whole thread at once, the tip about choosing a portside balcony for this cruise has been written down in anticipation of the day we get round to doing this cruise....

I have booked a nice 5* in Madeira this year for my holidays..... a week before the floods and mudslides!! Serves me right for having a year off crusing for our main holiday!:rolleyes:

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Reference the Panama Canal - I still think Jimmy Carter was wrong to give it back to the Panamanians.

 

After all, we stole it fair and square - and had we not built it, the country of Panama would not exist - it would still be a province of Columbia.

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I had coffee with the solo travellers and decided that I would try my hand at Quoits, they are rather like thick New York style bagels, about six inches in diameter, but made of a soft rope and the aim of the game is to pitch these rings over a line marked on deck and then for them to slide and come to rest within a circular bull’s-eye target which is also marked on the deck. The quoits nearer to the centre score, if you have any quoits nearer than your opponent each of yours will score. And the points each quoit scores is dependent upon how close it is to the centre of the target and it goes 3, 2, 1 and 0. You play to a team score of 11, 15 or 21 and it is great fun. I played well in the first game so we got to the semi final and my luck deserted me and out we went. The finalists were great and one team led 18 – 10 got caught and got to 20-18 and the opponents scored 3 in the last round. They were so disappointed, as would I have been, more so because the prize was a P&O pen and Key ring set which I humbly submit is the best currently offered P&O prize. They used to offer nice bags like a small messengers bag in today’s parlance or a tote bag in my age, also wheeled kit bags and umbrellas but cuts have affected everything.

 

The weather is lovely with the lightest of clouds in the sky, real sun burn weather and it is about 86 degrees, quite humid and the ship is rolling a bit in the choppy sea. I am told that Oceana doesn’t sail particularly well as she has a flat bottom. I would agree with that statement.

 

We are thinking of missing lunch which will allow Mrs P to perhaps go to the Chocoholics Buffet this afternoon, it is exactly what it sounds like. The restaurant has tables laid out and they are piled high with all manner of things made from chocolate, gateaux, buns, sweets, biscuits and fancies. I admit that I went once and I was so horrified with not only the amount of food that the guests could interleave and pile onto one plate, but also with the half full plates left on the tables when these guests found that even they couldn’t eat all that they had taken. They could be compared to locusts. It is quite disgusting really.

 

I went up to the pool but it was back to being packed so there was no chance of moving, let alone swimming and the area surrounding it was full as well so the sensible escape plan took me to the bar for a cocktail of the day which was a cooling Planter’s Punch, the Bahama Mama that I followed it with was much smoother with the same rum but also the addition of Banana liqueur, a vast improvement. We are playing whist this afternoon which should be a bit of fun.

 

Ask me who won the whist this afternoon and I would have to confess that I did and the prize was the pen and key-ring set of which I have several already but I really like them and more to the point I use them.

 

Mrs P and I went to the individual quiz this afternoon and without collusion I tied the lead at 16 out of 20 so I was in a tie break. The question posed was how many children did the world record holding Russian lady have in the 18th century and the nearest guess would win. My opponent guessed 32, I guessed 67 at which the room exploded in laughter and horror, and the answer was 69, so I won another pen and key-ring set. That made my day!

 

Tonight was the third formal evening and I hit the wall with the menu, there was lamb, beef, fish and a vegetarian main course but nothing really appealed to me at all. I had cold ham and chips and it was lovely, it would only have been improved with the addition of two fried eggs but I cried off from ordering them. The head waiter then came round and we discussed it and he said that it would be no problem at all for the chef to do that for me. It was too late for tonight but I said that I will bear it in mind down the week. Can you imagine a chef not being upset at having to fry two eggs when he is busy plating up 500 dinners. I can’t so I will let it go.

 

We also won tonight’s quiz with 18 correct out of 20. It was a pretty good day today.

 

Tomorrow is another sea day; I hope that the humidity is lower as it is reminiscent of a steam room. Mrs P is having a very tough time with a bad hair week, apparently humidity equals frizz, big frizz. She has stopped believing me when I say it looks fine.

 

It is almost 6am and our clocks went back a further hour at 2am so it feels like 7am. There is a slight 3 to 4 foot swell, with 20% white horses perhaps with a Force 7 wind. A nice light sky with no rain forecast but it should get to 84 degrees.

 

I believe that the entertainment provided on cruise ships ought to be top drawer, sadly too often it isn’t and I think this cruise is a good example. We had Mr Daniels who to us was excellent, but we had never seen his act before. Speaking to other passengers who had seen him several times before as he features regularly on UK ships, they say that his act is always the same. I have often had this criticism of other acts. Now tonight we have Bobby Crush who is headlined as “another sensational show” and an alternative of Cheryl Baker who you may recall was part of Bucks Fizz back in the Napoleonic War, winning the Eurovision Song Contest. She left the group or was forced out and she now is an after dinner speaker describing her vast experiences and I am sure quite a lot of the back biting between her and her replacement. I won’t be attending either show. It seems that Cruise Entertainers are either at the beginning or end of their careers. I wondered if the budget for these folk was tight because of the additional expenses incurred in doing the canal transit. I don’t think that it is a coincidence.

 

I made an error yesterday I have been told, I should have mentioned my quoit playing plan to Mrs P as she has always hankered after playing on the deck with the crew. In my defence I had no plan, I was just in the right place at the right time and I had no idea that this ambition burned in the heart of my hammock mate. Now I know and we are due to try it out today. It is good to do things together, she always tells me!

 

We bumped into our quiz partner yesterday and he was very unhappy, he had just completed an actual tour of the bridge. Not a virtual tour but an actual one. He was so disappointed, the trip was organised by the photography department. This apparently is a new thing and each person who goes gets charged the princely sum of £20 each, the P&O are seeing Michael Ryan of Ryan Air get away with things like this all of the time.

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