Cezanne's studio tour in Aix is it worth it?

[guidance lady]

Can any cruisers who have been to Cezanne's studio tell me whether or not it is worth a visit? I hear conflicting things. I am artist and admirer of Cezanne but some have suggested that the studio does not have much to offer the visitors, just a few paintbrushes, etc. We are planning a private tour of Aix and perhaps the Mt St Victoire mountain that he painted so often, I had also hoped to schedule a visit to his actual studio. Thanks for your input I will consider alternative suggestions. We do not get to Toulon until 10 and ship departs at 6, so we cannot go too far off.

[AngloinProvence]

I've visited all three major Cezanne sites in Aix. I found them all extremely interesting --- but it very much depends on what you're looking for. The studio is just one room, with paintbrushes, easels, memorabilia, but no paintings. I went in winter, but it might be a bit crowded in summer. You can walk up the hill from it to a favourite spot where PC went to paint the Mont Sainte Victoire.

 

I loved the Bibemus quarries, the brooding landscapes which inspired the artist - if you have a good guide s/he will bring them to life. The Jas de Bouffan is charming but only one room is open to the public at the moment (it's being restored). There's a much more detailled report on all three sites here: http://www.marseille-provence.info/aix-en-provence/paul-cezanne.html

[moyaroo]

As with most tourist attractions, your question is a difficult one. The Cezanne atelier would be interesting to me but only if it was a part of something else. On the other hand I was fascinated with the Cathedral of Saint Sauveur and could explore it for a long period of time, others might well walk in one door and out the next proclaiming, "another cathedral they all look alike to me". What I would not do is drive out to Mount St. Victoire (again) I love my print and find it vastly superior to the reality!

[guidance lady]

I've visited all three major Cezanne sites in Aix. I found them all extremely interesting --- but it very much depends on what you're looking for. The studio is just one room, with paintbrushes, easels, memorabilia, but no paintings. I went in winter, but it might be a bit crowded in summer. You can walk up the hill from it to a favourite spot where PC went to paint the Mont Sainte Victoire.

 

I loved the Bibemus quarries, the brooding landscapes which inspired the artist - if you have a good guide s/he will bring them to life. The Jas de Bouffan is charming but only one room is open to the public at the moment (it's being restored). There's a much more detailled report on all three sites here: http://www.marseille-provence.info/aix-en-provence/paul-cezanne.html

Thank you that is a very helpful link, I am definitely going to the studio if nothing more, then to stare at the props he used and his views. I didn't expect paintings but I have seen plenty of them in NY and other places. I hope to see the Bibemus quarries too, they do feature prominently in his paintings. Again thanks for the response and the excellent link.

[guidance lady]

As with most tourist attractions, your question is a difficult one. The Cezanne atelier would be interesting to me but only if it was a part of something else. On the other hand I was fascinated with the Cathedral of Saint Sauveur and could explore it for a long period of time, others might well walk in one door and out the next proclaiming, "another cathedral they all look alike to me". What I would not do is drive out to Mount St. Victoire (again) I love my print and find it vastly superior to the reality!

Thank you for taking the time to respond, I plan to visit the studio and the Cathedral too. The tour guide was pushing the drive to the Mont St Victoire but I think I'd rather see the studio. She said it would be either or due to time constraints. So much to see!

[Hlitner]

Places like the studio are interesting if you have a personal interest in the Impressionists and Cezanne. However, Giverny it is not! That being said, we really enjoy Aix (and Provence) and have spent quite a few weeks in the area. But we think the real charm of Aix lies more in the overall atmosphere of the city then in the so-called tourist sites. We would consider our favorite activity to simply have a nice long lunch in one of the restaurant/cafes that line the Cours Mirabeau. Many cities of the world have tried to duplicate the wonderful atmosphere found in French outdoor cafes, but in Aix you get the real mccoy.

 

Hank

[guidance lady]

Places like the studio are interesting if you have a personal interest in the Impressionists and Cezanne. However, Giverny it is not! That being said, we really enjoy Aix (and Provence) and have spent quite a few weeks in the area. But we think the real charm of Aix lies more in the overall atmosphere of the city then in the so-called tourist sites. We would consider our favorite activity to simply have a nice long lunch in one of the restaurant/cafes that line the Cours Mirabeau. Many cities of the world have tried to duplicate the wonderful atmosphere found in French outdoor cafes, but in Aix you get the real mccoy.

 

Hank

Thank you Hank, we plan on having a leisurely lunch too in Aix, any particular recommendation or should we leave it to the guide? Cezanne has been one of my "guiding lights" in art since I first studied him in college, just a few decades ago. :rolleyes:

[moyaroo]

FWIW I would see the studio as well :-) But as Hank says the real action in Aix is sitting in a sidewalk cafe and watching the world walk by.

[AngloinProvence]

For lunch, the iconic cafe of Aix is Les Deux Garcons on the Cours Mirabeau, where Cezanne, Picasso and a host of other luminaries hung out. It's a lovely old building, historic in its own right, but a tourist attraction, and priced accordingly. http://www.marseille-provence.info/gastronomy-food-gastronomie-drink-wine-cuisine-bars-restaurants-bistros/bars-bistros-cafes-brasseries/152-aix-en-provence-les-deux-garcons.html

 

For good food, locals recommend Le Poivre d'Ane in the Old Town, which is cited in the new Michelin Guide, though I've not tried it personally yet.

[Hlitner]

I would not necessarily let a lunch choice up to the guide although you should certainly consider his/her recommendation. Keep in mind that some guides get a kick-back for taking you to certain restaurants which may, or may not, be in your best interests (it is the same with some shops and stores). My recommendation is to eat in a well-placed cafe along the Cours Mirabeau (there are quite a few). As to which one, here is what DW and I like to do when in Aix or most places in France. The best deals (and often best food) are the daily specials which are usually on chalk boards outside the restaurant. They will usually have serveral menus du Jour which often consist of several courses and sometimes even a carafe of house wine. We will usually stroll along the main restaurant part of the street and browse all the menus or carte du jours. In the end we end up at the place that just feels right at the time.

 

Hank

[guidance lady]

I would not necessarily let a lunch choice up to the guide although you should certainly consider his/her recommendation. Keep in mind that some guides get a kick-back for taking you to certain restaurants which may, or may not, be in your best interests (it is the same with some shops and stores). My recommendation is to eat in a well-placed cafe along the Cours Mirabeau (there are quite a few). As to which one, here is what DW and I like to do when in Aix or most places in France. The best deals (and often best food) are the daily specials which are usually on chalk boards outside the restaurant. They will usually have serveral menus du Jour which often consist of several courses and sometimes even a carafe of house wine. We will usually stroll along the main restaurant part of the street and browse all the menus or carte du jours. In the end we end up at the place that just feels right at the time.

 

Hank

Sounds like a good plan to me, we will be a group of 8 but I don't know if we will eat together or not, we don't know each other. We have often ended up dining with others from our group but some prefer a quick bite. I am so looking forward to the Toulon stop. Thanks again Hank.

[guidance lady]

For lunch, the iconic cafe of Aix is Les Deux Garcons on the Cours Mirabeau, where Cezanne, Picasso and a host of other luminaries hung out. It's a lovely old building, historic in its own right, but a tourist attraction, and priced accordingly. http://www.marseille-provence.info/gastronomy-food-gastronomie-drink-wine-cuisine-bars-restaurants-bistros/bars-bistros-cafes-brasseries/152-aix-en-provence-les-deux-garcons.html

 

For good food, locals recommend Le Poivre d'Ane in the Old Town, which is cited in the new Michelin Guide, though I've not tried it personally yet.

Ok, I knew I could count on CC's for good restaurant recommendations, we will definitely look into it. I can't wait.

[guidance lady]

FWIW I would see the studio as well :-) But as Hank says the real action in Aix is sitting in a sidewalk cafe and watching the world walk by.

I plan to do that, I know my husband would like nothing better while I visit the Cathedral.

 

Are you an Aussie by the way? You seem to know Sydney and gave a good recommendation as to Sailor's Thai. We lived in Sydney for several years and remember when it opened. Our first restaurant in Sydney was Darley Street Thai, David Thompson's original restaurant we were sad when it closed. We even went to his restaurant in London, Nahm, in the Halkin hotel. I bought his cookbook, but couldn't possibly assemble all of the ingredients you would need to make something.

[moyaroo]

I plan to do that, I know my husband would like nothing better while I visit the Cathedral.

 

Are you an Aussie by the way? You seem to know Sydney and gave a good recommendation as to Sailor's Thai. We lived in Sydney for several years and remember when it opened. Our first restaurant in Sydney was Darley Street Thai, David Thompson's original restaurant we were sad when it closed. We even went to his restaurant in London, Nahm, in the Halkin hotel. I bought his cookbook, but couldn't possibly assemble all of the ingredients you would need to make something.

 

Not an Aussie but, next to France OZ is our favorite travel destination. The Moyaroo came years ago when Yahoo was new and my daughter put my middle name, Moyar, and Yahoo together. the rest as they say is history.

[Grannycb]

Check for local holidays and closings before you decide. Cezanne's studio was closed the day we went to Aix.

[guidance lady]

Check for local holidays and closings before you decide. Cezanne's studio was closed the day we went to Aix.

Thank you, I will. There have been many good recommendations on this thread.