Viking Neptune-Paris & The Heart of Normandy Review

[kart97]

Hi Everyone,

 

I have never written a review before so please bear with me. If I leave things out it is because I don’t want to bore people with details. That said, if anyone has questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to fill in any questions.

 

The cruise we took was the Viking River Cruise known as Paris and the Heart of Normandy. If you go to their website you can get all the details and the itinerary. As others have said in the past… the cruise was fantastic. In the past 5 years my wife and I have been on 13 other cruises with NCL… a line we also love. The two lines are so vastly different to try to compare them would be insane.

 

The first thing we noticed was that we were one of the younger couples on board. This cruise was geared to an older more sophisticated crowd… and I am not trying to take away from any other lines passengers. The tours are all planned to perfection and are very all encompassing. There were only 2 optional excursions for the entire cruise. These were a side trip to Versailles and a side trip to the Louvre. We didn’t take either excursion so we can’t comment on them… but we heard nothing bad from other passengers who went. We didn’t go as we saw those places on our own prior to boarding the boat.

 

Our trip actually started by arriving a few days early to stay at a Disney Vacation Club timeshare. While we spent one day in the parks so my wife could enjoy her inner child… we mainly used the timeshare as a base to run into Paris each day on the Metro. If you have the time to go early or stay after the cruise take advantage of it. There is so much to see in Paris and never enough time. If you are spending the extra time I have a couple of suggestions… If you are staying in Paris within the first three zones of the Metro… get a Paris Pass for the number of days you will be there. If you are staying further out like we did at EuroDisney which is in zone 5 get a Metro Pass for the number of days and a Museum Pass too. I know they sound similar but the Paris Pass is a combination of the two other passes but it doesn’t cover travel to the outer zones for places like Versailles… so you would need to by individual trip tickets. Both the Paris Pass and the Museum Pass allow you to bypass any lines waiting to get into the museums. When we went to the Louvre… the line to get in was over 2 hours.

 

If you decide to do the Metro to travel I highly recommend 2 free apps for your smart phones… I have an iPhone but I think the apps are also available for Android systems. The first is Umon Paris… this is an offline map system so you don’t need to have a data plan in France. This lets you search for places you want to go to and it also works as a GPS system to help you find your own location. They have another app called Umon Maps to Go… but I didn’t use it because it has a cost and it doesn’t have a key feature included in the free app. That key feature is the ability to click on an attraction or your own location and have it show you the distance to the 3 nearest Metro stations. The second app is put out by the Metro people and is call Paris Metro. With the info from the first app you can enter both the starting location and the ending location and it will tell you what trains to take and where to make your transfers. Those two apps saved us a ton by not having to pay for taxis. There is a third app everyone should get and that is by Rick Steves… he has done a number of audio walking tours which are free to download and he also has a book with great suggestions for your trip.

 

Now for a description of our whirlwind tour of France… both with Viking and on our own.

 

Day one was at the Disney Parks… For all the similarities with the parks in the states there are as many differences. The castle is a great change from the US parks and includes multiple levels with stained glass story windows and a dragons lair under the castle. The parks also stay open late for fireworks, etc. After about 8 PM you can essentially walk onto any attraction with no lines. The parks include Paris Disneyland, Hollywood studios and the Disney Village which is a smaller version of Downtown Disney and all of it’s clubs and eateries.

 

Day two we took the Metro to Paris (about a 30 minute ride on RER A). Once there we went to Pont des Arts… also known as the Bridge of Locks where lovers attach their locks and throw the keys into the Seine after professing their love to each other.

Be very aware of the pickpockets. They are typically young attractive gypsy girls who approach with clipboards. They touch their mouths and ears and the clip boards have donation sheets for the deaf and mute. They tend to work in pairs and get very close and use the clipboards to hide their actions. We were saved by an older Parisian woman who chased them away from us and gave us a warning of what they were up to. Later, we saw the same deaf mutes talking and laughing at the end of the bridge. On our cruise we met three people who were victims of the pickpockets… They are very good at what they do and they hang out at all the tourist locations.

From the bridge of locks we took the short walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral… and then on to the Louvre. If you pick a Metro station close to the attractions you want to visit… you can walk to each attraction as we did. We spent at least 4 hours in the Louvre and could have spent much more time. I don’t know how accurate the following info is… but I was told that there are 16 km of hallways with art exhibits and if you spent only 30 seconds at each it would take over 3 months to see everything. We did see the Mona Lisa from about 75 feet away over a bazzilion people then we were able to walk up to numerous DaVinci paintings which we found more attractive. The place is an amazing display of culture. After the Louvre we were going to take a taxi to the Moulin Rouge… but after being told it would be 50 Euros we decided to just use our Metro Pass to get there… it was only 20 minutes via Metro. At the Moulin Rouge we enjoyed the Toulouse Lautrec dinner and the show. We booked these tickets via the online service known as Viatour as we kept having trouble with the Moulin Rouge site… I think there was only about a $10 price difference. The show and dinner are a bit pricey but it was a once in a lifetime trip so we splurged on a few select events. For the men I can honestly say that every girl in the show was at least a 9 and most were 10s. The only nudity was the showing of breasts. The show was a combination of Vegas type show with a small amount of Can-Can added to keep the show original. After the show we traveled back to Disney… we were in bed by 2:30 AM… it was a long day.

 

Day three was a relatively easy day. It started with a tour of the Eiffel Tower… again booked through Viatour. Our guide was a young man by the name of Ben who spoke both English and French fluently… he was originally from the states and transplanted as a child to Paris. The tour included all three levels. From the top we could actually see where Viking docks it’s boat at Port De Grenelle… it is only about a 1/2 mile walk. For those who take the Metro to the boat… the Javel station is probably the closest Metro station.

After our tour we asked for lunch recommendations from Ben… we ended up eating at a small cafe called Rendezvous de Tour a few blocks from the tower. After lunch we hopped on the Metro to Versailles. It is about 30 minutes west of Paris. To say that it is impressive doesn’t do it justice. They show photos of a beautiful garden… but it is just one of many. If you have time to walk the grounds or take the tram ride to different areas you will be amazed at all the gardens.

 

Day four we checked out of Disney and took the Metro to the boat. The boat was the Viking Neptune… but from what I understand there are a couple of boats doing the same itinerary that leave on different days. As mentioned above we got off the metro at the Javel station and walked about a 1/4 mile to the boat. If you take the Metro when you leave the station take a hard right around the building and walk down the hill into the port area… it will keep you away from traffic with your luggage… which hopefully has wheels. Arrival and checkin at the boat was truly painless. There was a red carpet and they asked us our names. Once they checked them off on the clipboard they took our luggage and walked us to our cabin and gave us a quick tour of the boat. We didn’t need to show passports or give a credit card. There is no security as we have in the states… it was actually a pleasure. As people arrive through the day they had setup a buffet style lunch for everyone. Wine is free during meals but not in between. While the drinks were reasonably priced some people choose to do the all inclusive drink package which we were told is 300 Euros per cabin for all your alcohol including the top shelf brands.

During the afternoon we were given a walking tour or the Grenelle area shops and they also explained how to use the Metro as well as the local ATMs. Be aware that our credit cards use a magnetic strip while all of theirs use a chip and pin system. While most tourist based shops can handle your credit cards the Metros usually can not and you will need to find an attendant to purchase a pass with your credit card.

Dinner was a 2 1/2 hour experience that most Americans have to experience. The food is based on local cuisine and the portions are very reasonable. You are free to sit at any table you wish either for the company of friends you meet on board or for the wait staff of your choice. The meal has multiple courses and is served at a pace that allows for easy conversation with people at the table. If the local food isn’t to your liking they also have New York Steaks, etc on the menu at all times. I can promise you won’t go hungry. During our stay on the Neptune we had 2 members of the wait staff that deserve a call out… they were Manuel from Portugal and Simone. These two people made every meal an experience. They both had a great sense of humor and gave there all for everyone they took care of.

After dinner… we sat on deck with some friends and watched as the Eiffel Tower went into sparkle mode each hour for 5 minutes. A number of people went into town. At no time during our trip did we feel unsafe in any way. The people of France were friendly and always willing to help you find your way. All it took was a simple “Bon Jour”. Anyone who says the people of France are not friendly to Americans either has not experienced the country or was probably in a rush and forgetting that they speak English as a second language and need to think how to give the info you want.

 

Our Day 5 but Day 2 on the Neptune. After breakfast we hopped on a tour bus for a tour of Paris. This involved a stop at the Trocadero and at Notre Dame. If you are spending time in Paris after your time on the boat this is your opportunity to make a list of places to visit. The bus tour takes the morning and then after a return to the boat and lunch you are on your own. Some people chose the tour of the Louvre which was optional… I believe it cost 59 Euros each… but as we had been there before we chose not to go. We instead spent the afternoon going to Sacre Couer and from there to the Musee d’Orsay. As we had our Passes there was no additional cost. After we returned to the boat it left Paris at about 6:30 PM for the town of Giverny. Another fine dining experience as we watched the scenery go by. I know I forgot to mention it before… but every evening there was a get together to let us know about the following days activities and there was some form of entertainment in the form of singing or a pianist.

 

Day 6 and Day 3 on the Neptune. We awake to the city of Vernon… to call it a city is almost a joke as it is just one of the many villages in the countryside of France. Again we hop on a bus… but this time for a short 10 minute ride to Monet’s home and gardens in the next village of Giverny. If you love art… you will love this place. I can’t even begin to describe the beauty and color of the gardens or Monet’s home. We spent the entire morning here and then after returning to the boat we had a beautiful lunch and the afternoon was free. We went to the local church which was holding a baptism for one of the local children. After that my wife spent her time attending a seminar on Impressionist art and a class on watercolor. I enjoyed some free time.

 

Day 7 and Day 4 on the Neptune. This morning we spent the morning sailing to Rouen. It was a foggy morning but it made the trip interesting with the play of lighting and going through locks, etc. The swans are everywhere on the river. they are beautiful to watch. After lunch is a walking tour of Rouen. If you don’t enjoy walking this boat trip isn’t for you… We don’t mind and find it quite fascinating. Rouen is where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. It is also a seaport although it is quite a distance from the coast. During the walking tour we visited the Notre Dame Cathedral where they put on a spectacular light show each evening. This is not the same cathedral as the one in Paris… Like many of the Catholic churches in the US the names are the same. You might have a St. Mark’s or St. Mary’s in any city or town. Rouen is a small city with an old town section that has architectural as well as artsy and religious sites. We also took the time to visit a local department store. The products are quite different as most people live in small apartments.

 

Day 8 and Day 5 on the Neptune. Today we took a bus trip to Normandy. It was a very moving experience. To think of the bloodbath that took place in such an idilic place. Our guide, who at one time was a guide for the state department showed us a number of headstones for important people like the father and son who are buried side by side or the brothers from Saving Private Ryan. We walked on Omaha Beach and also took in the D-Day museum amongst other places.

 

Day 9 and Day 6 on the Neptune. This morning we sailed from Rouen to Les Andelys. It was a nice quiet sailing on a beautiful sunny morning. After lunch we got off for a walking tour up the hill to Chateau Gaillard. They use the term Chateau… but it really means castle. It is kind of like going to the Berkshires of Massachusetts where you find mansions that are affectionately known as cottages. This Chateau was the castle for Richard the Lionheart. They told us about how it was built as well as it’s downfall.

After our return to the boat we did a galley tour with Chef Sebastian and then a wheelhouse tour with the Captain of the boat. My wife was thrilled to be able to sit in the Captains seat to drive the boat as we again got underway to sail to Conflans.

 

Day 10 and Day 7 on board. This is our final full day with the boat… it all happened so fast. After breakfast the guests were given a choice of going to Versailles for a 1/2 or full day tour or going on a walking tour of Conflans. We chose the walking tour as we had already been to Versailles. When that tour was over we chose to take the Metro back into Paris to hit a few more of the places we wanted to see. The boat was sailing back to Paris for the afternoon so it would be easy to meet up with them again.

When we arrived in Paris our first goal was to see the Musee de l’Orangerie… this is where Monet’s water lilies paintings are on display. Since we had been to his home and gardens this was not to be missed.

Next we were off to Napoleon’s Tomb… It is at the Musee de l’Armee. Like everything else in Paris the ornateness is overwhelming.

On to the next cathedral… Saint Sulpice. This cathedral is known for its pipe organ. But, like all the other cathedrals, has splendid architecture.

And again… on to another cathedral… Sainte Chapelle. Sadly, this one is no longer what I will call a cathedral. While it has fabulous stained glass that they are working to restore… it has become a money making operation where they charge you for admittance and it is full of vendors booths.

Finally, our last stop before returning to the boat was a stop at the Shakespeare Book Store. It is a quaint little shop that is popular as a place to stay for budding authors.

 

Day 11 and our final day in France. This morning we said goodbye to the friends we made and the beautiful country we grew to love. At about 10 AM we hauled our luggage to the Metro for the final ride to the airport. But even that ride had an interesting happening. On the trains second stop a girl boarded with her luggage… after a few minutes she commented on us speaking English. It turned out she was American and headed back home after 5 years of living and teaching in Paris. She was on her way to buy a wedding dress as she was getting ready to marry her French fiancee. We would be traveling back to the states on separate airlines. But as it turned out… she was heading to the same small town in western Massachusetts that we were headed to. Can you say small world.

 

Was it a good trip… absolutely… Was it cultural… no doubt.

Would we do it again… on Viking… In a heartbeat.

I hope this review helps anyone planning a trip… if you have questions drop us a line and we will do our best to answer them.

 

As they say in France… Bon Jour!!! :)

[CWRob]

We will be on the Viking Spirit sailing Oct 5/14. We did buy the 2 day Paris Pass for our 3 day pre cruise in Paris. We will do Vikings palace of Versailles tour because of time. Have tickets for dinner at the Eiffel tower. As Canadians, I am interested in the Juno beach landing area. Does the tour take that in? We went with Viking last year on the Grand European tour........ it was all very good with great service

 

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[jacksonnh]

Thanks for the review. My wife and I took this cruise in April 2010 after spending a week in Paris pre-cruise. It brings back many memories.

[rjscott]

Kart97, thanks for the great review. We are considering this itinerary for our next Viking cruise, and your details provided a lot of background info.

 

Becki

[kart97]

For the tour at Normandy we had a choice of the American landing area or what I think they called the Commonwealth area. I know it was geared more toward the British and Canadians.

[Phila2men]

Curious Kart 97, when did you take this cruise? Did you just get home?

[czst17]

Kart97 thank you so much for the review. Hubby and I are booked for the same cruise on the same ship next May and can't wait. I have tried to read all I can about the trip and your review confirmed what I've read. There have been few recent reviews so I was really glad to see yours.

Could you comment on the Neptune please? I know it is an older ship and I would be interested in your observations.

Thanks again for taking the time to post.

[rcaruso]

Question, was Chef Sebastian red headed? If so he was the sous chef on the Spirit two years ago. Was Maja at the front desk?

 

We did this cruise two Christmases ago, and enjoyed it.

 

Thanks for the memories!

 

 

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[kart97]

Curious Kart 97, when did you take this cruise? Did you just get home?

 

We were on the August 29th sailing a couple of weeks ago. :)

[kart97]

Question, was Chef Sebastian red headed? If so he was the sous chef on the Spirit two years ago. Was Maja at the front desk?

 

It is kind of hard to tell if he was a red head as he has no hair... I will try to attach a picture.

As for Maja... I would have to say no as the name wasn't familiar.

[rcaruso]

That is the Sebastian on the Pride, Christmas of 2012. So glad to know he is head chef of the Neptune. Maja (pronounced Maya) was his fiancé. Thanks for the picture. Glad you had a great time, we will be on the Kara at Thanksgiving our 5th Viking cruise and 7th total.

[kart97]

Kart97 thank you so much for the review. Hubby and I are booked for the same cruise on the same ship next May and can't wait. I have tried to read all I can about the trip and your review confirmed what I've read. There have been few recent reviews so I was really glad to see yours.

Could you comment on the Neptune please? I know it is an older ship and I would be interested in your observations.

Thanks again for taking the time to post.

 

The Neptune itself was a very clean and well kept boat. It is smaller than the new boats that they are building but it was very nice. I can’t speak for the fancy cabins as we were on the bottom deck… but I can say that the cabin was well maintained… the room stewards would make up our cabins around our schedule and turn down the beds every evening. Being at the bottom of the boat we were obligated to take our turn rowing the long ship. I have added a picture to give you an idea of our location vs the crew.

 

While I mentioned in an earlier post about the lack of security… there was always someone from reception or the crew watching the ramp onto the boat… No one who didn’t belong there was going to get on the boat. They have a system of giving you a pass as you got off the boat… which you returned as you got back on the boat.

 

Some of the amenities for everyone was a Juice/water/tea/coffee bar just to the left of the reception area. This was always well maintained except for a 24 hour period when the coffee maker broke. Someone was trying to maintain it and something popped. They put a sign on the machine that they were waiting for someone to put the blue smoke back into the machine. Afterwards it worked fine for the rest of the cruise.

 

There is a main dining area at the back of the boat where all 3 meals are served. If you get up early and only want a snack there is also a lounge area at the front of the boat that has a small buffet for breakfast. It was also available for lunch. All the areas were kept clean at all times.

 

The boat has no elevators for handicapped access. You will need to be able to climb stairs or walk up and down a ramp. In some of the cities like Rouen there are some stairs to climb to get to city level… there is an elevator to the one end of the dock area… but from what we were told it rarely works.

 

The captain doesn’t speak English… so most of the talking when he is around is done by Guillaume, the program director. Most of the remaining staff speak English with no problem. If you take the time to get to know them… they will tell you about their families, etc… and many will offer little tidbits about the destinations.

The cabins always had a large bottle of complimentary water and anytime you went off the boat there was usually a table near the ramp that had free bottles of water to take for the excursions. If it wasn’t there it was available by asking.

 

The upper deck was almost always open for sitting and had canopy shaded areas. There were a few times where you couldn’t be on the upper deck as they had to go under low bridges… but that wasn’t the norm. If you look at the wheelhouse when you are on board… you will see that it goes up and down for the same reason.

 

Just off the reception area is a small library area for the readers… they also have a few games… but not too many. We brought a travel version of Scrabble… a game we play all the time.

 

During the evening… most entertainment was kept at a level that allowed for easy conversation… no ear plugs were required. There was also someone always asking if you would like a drink or some snacks… but not to the point of being annoying.

 

The boat is not huge so you can get from one end to the other in a very short time. There are no hot tubs or swimming pools… so if you want a dip they offer a complimentary toss into the Seine from the galley area. And for an extra 5 Euros they will even toss you a life ring when you want to get back on the boat.

 

I hope this info helps.

[kart97]

That is the Sebastian on the Pride, Christmas of 2012. So glad to know he is head chef of the Neptune. Maja (pronounced Maya) was his fiancé. Thanks for the picture. Glad you had a great time, we will be on the Kara at Thanksgiving our 5th Viking cruise and 7th total.

 

He did mention that he was going to be taking a vacation shortly and that Maya had just gotten off the ship the week before... They were having a problem with how their vacations fell.

[czst17]

Kart97- thanks again for the postings. We are one deck up from the bottom but will be happy to row if asked. We are not big on ship pools so we will not miss that at all. So glad you had a great trip.