MSC Magnifica picture heavy fun review -- 12 days British Isles incl. DIY port trips

spinnaker2 · October 28, 2014

Just tell them what my son always said that "dust is a protective cover".

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 29, 2014

Hey guys -- thanks for the supportive posts! All good with the agency. Another year to go until the next meeting. I'm pooped. But I have a damn clean house now...you could eat off the floor. I need a nap -- or I could start writing the beginning of the first Beauly post...mhhh...

Stef

denisey · October 29, 2014

Yay! on passing for another year! I am guessing the smile on Tarik's face and the weight he has gained since living with you would tell them how happy and well cared for he is!

Now, quick nap, and on to Beauly! :)

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 29, 2014

Beauly

Beauly is a quaint little town on our way back up north from Loch Ness. We liked three things about our upcoming stop in Beauly…

one -- it would give us a chance to eat lunch. We nearly starved in Edinburgh and we didn’t want to make that mistake again.

Two – they have a beautiful ruin of an old priory, which is located right in the middle of town (and right next to the food) and it doesn’t cost any admission.

Three– this stop would let us take another scenic route back up north, so we’d see more of this beautiful country on the way.

All that was important now -- was to be there early -because starting at 12:00 the tour busses from Invergordon stop here! And this quaint little priory with its cemetery around it, is only inspiring, if you get to enjoy it without the hordes. We got there sometime between 11:00 and 11:30. I forgot.

Anyway, the place was completely deserted. We were happy! So let’s check out the priory as long as it’s this empty before heading to lunch, okay?

First a few pictures to whet your appetite…I’ll wait with torturing you with a quick historic background until the next post.

The front gate.

The view right after entering past that gate.

This-, ladies and gentlemen, is THE largest elm tree in all of Europe! An amazing 800 years old.

Lol – I just watched a documentary yesterday about the oldest “Tanzlinde” in Germany…An awe-inspiring 1240 years old…beat that!

Lol – okay, okay…all you Giant Sequoia trees in the US and the Olive or fig trees in the more southern realms can only manage a weak smile at that, since you’re WAY older than that…but still. I think it’s a neat little fact and one heck of a tree.

Anyway, back to the priory.

This side of the facade is still standing pretty tall.

The other side…well a little less so.

Those stones sure looked sturdy though…especially those doorways…look at the huge slanted stones on top and those massive wooden beams (lol – not to forget the measly modern ones they added up front).

Stay tuned!

Stef

spirit8 · October 29, 2014

Steph

Thank you so much for such a thorough review. I was supposed to go on

that cruise, am a cruiser, and it would have been my first MSC cruise.

I plan well in advance also which kind of extends the cruising time. Changed

plans and went on the Preziosa. With so many different opinions having the time for research really paid off as I enjoyed the cruise a lot. This year going on Divina Med Cruise. Was on a British Isles cruise on Princess before and am looking forward to doing it on MSC but my bucket list consists of other cruises first.

Can't wait to see your other installments and again thank you.

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 30, 2014

Beauly priory continued

A semi-quick background on Beauly and the Priory until we continue with more pictures.

There is more than one explanation about where the term “Beauly” originates.

I like this one the best: Some French people came over and saw this place with the beautiful countryside and exclaimed: “Que beau lieu!” translated: “what a beautiful place” -- and beaulieu ended up as beauly.

Let’s stay with the French, since the monks who founded this priory in 1230 came from Burgundy, France and belonged to the order of Valliscaulians.

In case you wonder about that name: Vallis caulium is Latin for “valley of cabbages” – lol, and that was where they originally came from – the “Val des Choux” near Dijon, France.

When they got here, they found little more than the elm tree by the front gate and a small chapel dedicated to the celtic St. Cattan (St. Catherine).

This old chapel would become the south transept of the future priory church…therefore representing the oldest part of the construction. Until the year 1272 the records show large gifts to the order, which suddenly stop in that year, so one believes, that the church building was completed by that date.

Substantial improvements were added to the building in the early 15th century by Prior Hugh Fraser. His successor was Prior MacKenzie, who was the illegitimate son of the chief of the Clan MacKenzie. He died in 1479 and his tomb in the wall of St. Cattan’s chapel is the oldest of all the graves in Beauly.

The actual priory was once much larger than the remaining ruin of the church today. There was a square shaped building complex with an inner courtyard.. The monks lived and prayed here as Valliscaulians until 1510 -- then the order changed to Cistercian.

In 1531 Robert Reid was appointed Prior of Beauly. He was a very famous and influential man in Scotland. Not only was he a royal ambassador and secretary to the king, he also was Lord president of the Court in session and became Bishop of Orkney. He had been educated in Bologna, Italy and was a strong believer in spreading knowledge, wherever possible. He promised the city of Edinburgh a sum of 8000 merks for the creation of a university. (After his death in 1558 – he was poisoned in France – his nephew was sued for that promised amount…there was only 2500 merks left…but that proved sufficient to still found the university)

Following a lightning strike in 1541, Reid rebuilt the west front of Beauly church. Ever after that it remained the way you still see it today with the three large windows in the middle. His crest – a stag’s head and bishop’s crosier is carved just above the west door.

The reformation in 1560 was the beginning of the end for the monks. The last ones remaining dispersed to other houses in 1585.

The lands became private property and the church became a burial ground for the chiefs of Clan Lovat (Frasers) and the Mac Kenzie family. The other buildings where robbed of their stones until they completely disappeared …mainly to build local homes as well as a Cromwell fort in Inverness.

Beauly Priory has been under state care since 1909.

Yikes – that history write up took me a while.

Let’s relax with the second set of pictures until we head out to lunch.

Oh no – the first tour bus…see it? They’re just parking…Let’s get out of here!

Stay tuned!

Stef

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 30, 2014

Yay! on passing for another year! I am guessing the smile on Tarik's face and the weight he has gained since living with you would tell them how happy and well cared for he is!

Now, quick nap, and on to Beauly! :)

:pthanks:p

lol -- no smiles today -- Tarik used up his daily computer time already and is now bored -- not knowing what to do...how come teenagers never know what to do on school vacations? I keep shushing him away ... not my job to be sole entertainer today (don't get me wrong -- I made several suggestions...but none found his majesty's approval:rolleyes:).

Stef

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 30, 2014

Steph
Thank you so much for such a thorough review. I was supposed to go on

that cruise, am a cruiser, and it would have been my first MSC cruise.

I plan well in advance also which kind of extends the cruising time. Changed

plans and went on the Preziosa. With so many different opinions having the time for research really paid off as I enjoyed the cruise a lot. This year going on Divina Med Cruise. Was on a British Isles cruise on Princess before and am looking forward to doing it on MSC but my bucket list consists of other cruises first.

Can't wait to see your other installments and again thank you.

Hi spirit8,

Oh no -- you missed a fabulous cruise. I'm happy that the one on Preziosa turned out well for you too. Must be sooo nice to have several cruises to look forward to. Glad you're enjoying the review -- especially since you've done the British Isles cruise already! Feel free to add details whenever you feel like it!

Stef

windjamming · October 30, 2014

:pthanks:p

lol -- no smiles today -- Tarik used up his daily computer time already and is now bored -- not knowing what to do...how come teenagers never know what to do on school vacations? I keep shushing him away ... not my job to be sole entertainer today (don't get me wrong -- I made several suggestions...but none found his majesty's approval:rolleyes:).

Stef

A friend's mom used to put her and her brother to work (eg cleaning closets, garage, laundry) whenever they said they were bored.

They stopped being bored.

Maybe Tarik can learn how to not be bored. :) Great kid, but he needs to stop bothering you, because clearly you need to focus on this review! :)

Sent using the Cruise Critic forums app

spinnaker2 · October 30, 2014

Windjamming,did you know my Mom?

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 30, 2014

Lunch in Beauly

When we researched this town before the cruise, we found a little fish and chips place next to the priory.

Sadly, when we were there…it was still closed and wouldn’t open for another hour. Next to that there was the Priory hotel and restaurant. It looked nice, classy, but also a bit expensive. We decided to head into a side street next to it. And found:

A pub…with added bistro area.

When we entered - there was sudden silence.

The place was packed and the second before we entered there were lively conversations going on…but once we were spotted…you could have heard a pin drop. There were only men in there at the counter... the only female person was the lady behind the counter preparing the pints. To the right there was another room, somewhat secluded from this testosterone reeking cave, which showed a fresh, light and modern interior with tables to sit at.

We hurried over there, so the men could be at ease again…too bad…I would have loved to sit in this old, but cozy looking pub area, listening to the Scots and breathing in the atmosphere…but we didn’t feel welcome. Sigh – this was the only time in Scotland that we felt this way. Maybe we misunderstood something…but I really don’t see what we did wrong.

Is it not okay for women to enter a highland pub?

This sadly was our only Scottish pub… so I don’t have any others to compare it to. Pubwise we fell in love with Ireland later on in the cruise…but more on that later.

This “bistro” area next to the pub was empty. The gal behind the pub counter came over to bring us the menus. She was VERY nice – seemed somewhat amused --- no idea why --- but VERY friendly. I guess we looked a little intimidated at that point. But we got over it (somewhat). I was on a mission to try “haggis”. That was one of the things I desperately wanted to do in Scotland…and look – there it is on the menu!

so I bravely ordered some --- together with this local beer.

The beer was okay…nothing memorable, but not bad either…the Haggis however:

OH MY GOD!

This was absolutely delicious!

I have to admit – I thought I would probably get nauseous, or not be able to eat more than a few spoons full…talk about being prejudiced!

This stuff however was excellent! I swear I had to hold myself back to not lift up the plate to lick off the sauce afterwards.

Absolutely yummy!!!!

I do recommend this bistro besides the grumpy Pub- Scots! The food was inexpensive and REALLY great! To get to the restrooms you had to go through the door to the right --- (thank God not through the pub again)..it led to the inside area of the Priory hotel and restaurant….Oh – I guess this is one big place…no wonder the food was outstanding. Lol – just cheaper after using this side entrance and room…I would eat here again for sure! Maybe they reserve this for the locals? I would love to know where we failed.

Bellies filled, we got on the road again, heading north. The next stop would be Carn Liath.

Stay tuned!

Stef

Sanjam cruisers · October 30, 2014

Hi Steff

Thoroughly enjoying reading your review,the locals in Beauly were not being unfriendly. Until the 1970s most pubs in Scotland consisted of a Bar and a Lounge Bar, the Bar was traditionally for men only and the Lounge for Women and Couples some pubs only had a bar and were therefore by default Men Only.In this modern age the majority of pubs now cater for anybody of legal age and of both sexes, in a small town like Beauly you possibly went into the local men's watering hole.

Just for interest was that a Whisky cream sauce you had with the Haggis.

Looking forward to the rest of your review.

Jim.

oreosmile · October 30, 2014

I love haggis! The hotel we stayed at in Edinburgh had it on their breakfast buffet. What's not to love!

I lived in Lunenburg in Nova Scotia for 5 years - it was founded in 1753 (http://www.explorelunenburg.ca/18th-century.html) and a lot of the early founders were German. Lunenburg sausage and pudding (http://www.acanadianfoodie.com/2014/05/30/lunenburg-pudding-sausage-tancook-sauerkraut/) are two of my faves, and haggis reminded me of them.

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 31, 2014

you possibly went into the local men's watering hole.

Just for interest was that a Whisky cream sauce you had with the Haggis.

Looking forward to the rest of your review.

Jim.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Lol -- the "local men's watering hole" made me almost spill my coffee:D -- out of all the mixed sex pubs --looks just like us to find one of those old fashioned ones:rolleyes:.

I have absolutely NO CLUE what that sauce was all about. It tasted like nothing I ever ate before...but it was sheer delight! If it was Whisky -- it must have been a good one, because usually Whisky gives me stomach cramps:o. This sure didn't! In fact, my stomach starts growling right now -- in desperate want of more of that haggis.

Stef

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 31, 2014

I love haggis! The hotel we stayed at in Edinburgh had it on their breakfast buffet. What's not to love!

I lived in Lunenburg in Nova Scotia for 5 years - it was founded in 1753 (http://www.explorelunenburg.ca/18th-century.html) and a lot of the early founders were German. Lunenburg sausage and pudding (http://www.acanadianfoodie.com/2014/05/30/lunenburg-pudding-sausage-tancook-sauerkraut/) are two of my faves, and haggis reminded me of them.

Hi,

We live in lower saxony and we have a town called Lüneburg not too far away...I wonder if that's the town folks emigrated from when they settled "Lunenburg" in Nova Scotia. The sausage and pudding don't really look familiar...but then again the recipe has probably been mixed with others from other countries as well. Looks interesting though:).

Stef

Kreuzfahrtneuling · October 31, 2014

Hey everybody,

started the next post...but won't get it done today...oops. Going with Tanja to a concert from Max Raabe. Lol -- you probably won't know him. Will be back later tomorrow!

Miss me.

Stef

posso · October 31, 2014

You are bad for the British economy because everytime I sit down to start work, I turn my computer on to check if you've posted anything new -and if you haven't, I read the old ones again!

More please

Kreuzfahrtneuling · November 1, 2014

You are bad for the British economy because everytime I sit down to start work, I turn my computer on to check if you've posted anything new -and if you haven't, I read the old ones again!

More please

:DLol -- sorry about that...maybe it's my evil plan to ruin the Island's economy -- muhahahaha.

:)no, seriously, I love that you reread my posts:eek::p. I was a bit afraid that I was getting way out of hand with all the detail and that I would start boring you all into a deep sleep...but when you volunarily go back to read something again... it can't be so bad I suppose:cool:. Thank you for telling me that! I float a couple of inches above the ground right now because of that...thank you!

Stef

Lol -- more details coming up shortly...

Edited November 1, 2014 by Kreuzfahrtneuling
typo

Kreuzfahrtneuling · November 1, 2014

Carn Liath (post one of four)

Yeah, I betcha you’re surprised to see

four

posts coming up on a sight hardly ever mentioned. But we had a grand time here and absolutely recommend this … so I guess you’ll have to endure it…who knows, maybe you’ll end up as fascinated as we were.

What the heck is Carn Liath?

I sure never heard of it before and I’d place bets that many of you haven’t either. While I was researching for our day in Invergordon, I looked at a map from Historic Scotland, where they show you sights of interest as little pins on the map…once you click on them, it tells you further detail as to what is to be found there. On the way north to Helmsdale we had already flirted with the idea of visiting Dunrobin castle…that would be a wonderful bad weather option…and suddenly, about one mile to the north of Dunrobin castle I saw a little blip pop up on the map.

What might this be in the middle of nowhere?

Well, apparently something uniquely Scottish – a so called broch. Now you probably don’t know what a broch is either --- at least

we

had no clue. I’ll tell you:

A broch is a type of Iron age fortification found only in Scotland. There are over 500 of them across the country, mainly in the highlands and on the islands, but also as far south as the Dumfries. Most of them are about 2300 years old! They were drystone circular structures, usually strategically placed at some cliff or water passageway. They all have a single tiny low entrance area and a stone stair corkscrewing its way upwards along the inner wall to the top. They all have a hearth and some sort of hints for a former roof structure. Some have their own water well.

One still doesn’t know for sure about the actual purposes. Some say they were used as fortifications by the more wealthy ruling class, others say they were used for everyday living and as a shelter for humans as well as lifestock in those times filled with petty warfare.

One thing is certain however… in the times they were erected (remember we’re talking about the Iron Age here!), they must have been an awe inspiring sight for anyone looking upon them. The broch at Mousa in Shetland still shows an impressive height of more than 13 meters today! Were all brochs this high once? They definitely were successful in defending whatever was treasured inside…one story about this: The impressive broch at Mousa occurs twice in Icelandic sagas ... the most famous being this:

In the year 1153A. D. – so more than 1000 years after its construction, the broch at Mousa provided refuge for an aristocratic pair of lovers, Margaret and her suitor the Earl Erlend of Orkney, who were pursued there by Margaret's son the Earl Harald who disapproved of the match. Harald laid siege to the broch but the defences were still powerful even 1000 years after they were first designed, and in the end the marriage went ahead after some diplomacy. Sigh. I love happy endings.

But we weren’t visiting Mousa – duh – we were on mainland Scotland afterall, not on the Shetlands, but we were able to see a wee bit smaller example of one of those legendary brochs….Carn Liath. Let’s see what we found.

Getting there

You’re driving up north on the A9 and have just passed Golspie and the sign leading to Dunrobin castle…now you have to pay attention, because it’s really easy to miss this little sign leading to the parking spot for Carn Liath. Keep on driving for approximately one mile – not more!

This is where you have to turn left onto the parking spot…

The parking itself stuns with incredible views of the North sea and the beautiful coastline.

You walk on a little foot path to the south of the cars.

It leads you down to the A9.

View to the South…

View across the road ...

Be careful when crossing…it’s a highway afterall (although a cute tiny one).

Once you crossed you walk along this path…

Even for enjoying this path the stop would have been worthwhile… Nature is absolutely amazing here.

Stay tuned!

Stef

Edited November 1, 2014 by Kreuzfahrtneuling

Kreuzfahrtneuling · November 1, 2014

Carn Liath (post two of four)

Arriving

Way in the back you can see Dunrobin castle.

I just can’t describe, how impressed we were with the view…I tried by taking this panoramic picture …

only sort of captures it though.

Anyway, we had a happy kid along (lol – and well rested, since he slept all the way from Beauly to here – sadly I’m forbidden to post the cute as hell snooze pictures) and couldn’t wait to spot the broch.

Tadah!

You enter through that wooden gate in the front. It’s not locked.

I’m stoked … we found it!

The entrance is on the side facing the sea, so first you walk a half circle around it until…

Yay – let’s explore the broch, shall we?

Stay tuned!

Stef

Edited November 1, 2014 by Kreuzfahrtneuling

lorrdean · November 1, 2014

Stef, have you ever thought about being a history teacher, your attention to detail and times, dates ect is astounding. Hats off to you.... well if I wore a hat I would take it off for you lol :D I was born and raised in Scotland and I have learnt so much history about my own country from your posts. I can't wait to read more...so hurry up pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeee :p

Edited November 1, 2014 by lorrdean

Kreuzfahrtneuling · November 1, 2014

Stef, have you ever thought about being a history teacher, your attention to detail and times, dates ect is astounding. Hats off to you.... well if I wore a hat I would take it off for you lol :D I was born and raised in Scotland and I have learnt so much history about my own country from your posts. I can't wait to read more...so hurry up pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeee :p

Iiiks -- have I just said I float off the ground a couple of inches? Now you'll have to tie me down to keep me on the ground! A Scottish woman -- born and raised -- just seriously told me she learned a LOT about her own country through me? I think I might need to take off a week to digest that...

...of course not! you coudn't keep me from continuing this unless there was some sort of atomic fall out.

Thank you Lorrdean! I feel very honored! Glad you're still here, reading.

...and NO -- I won't be a teacher in this lifetime ... enough of having ONE teenager every day.... no way I can cope with more than TWENTY!

My very high regard to every teacher on this planet who manages that!

Stef

lorrdean · November 1, 2014

No more holidays until this review is finished. Ive always been here lurking in the background lol xx

Kreuzfahrtneuling · November 1, 2014

No more holidays until this review is finished.

:eek::eek::eek: but what about christmas? :eek::eek::eek:

lol -- and believe me -- I DO hurry up. No way I can accelerate even more. More posts heading your way tomorrow!

Thanks for keeping me company during all the time that this insanely long review gobbles up! I appreciate it!

Stef

Kreuzfahrtneuling · November 2, 2014

Carn Liath (post three of four)

Tanja just entered through that little entrance down there.

To the right side, there is a narrow room believed to be a guard’s post to watch the entrance.

I liked the way the light spilled in from the top.

This light also gave Tarik the opportunity to look for archaeological finds…

When he first came to live with us, his career wish was “paleontologist”… long gone … now he’s somewhere between no clue, photographer and confectioner. But still – who knows where he’ll end up. It’ll definitely be interesting.

Lol – all I know for sure is that he won’t inherit the vet practice… every time he sees blood (or even hears about blood) he nearly faints. But that’s totally okay.

Besides this single entrance on ground level, there is another opening to the top of the broch.

Tarik on the upper part of that passage

Tanja on the lower part of it.

From the upper rim of the broch you can see our rental car (the grey one in front of the red one) on the parking lot…see – it’s not really that far away of a walk.

Stay tuned!

Stef

MSC Magnifica picture heavy fun review -- 12 days British Isles incl. DIY port trips

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