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Nuku Hiva on your own


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On January 2nd our ship is tendering into Taiohae. I have researched on various websites to come up with this list of places to see. Our cruise ship is on this island from 8:00am-5:00pm. My question is, is this a good island to rent a car and drive to these places? Also is this the best use of our time on this island? Do you have any other suggestions of what we should do? Is there anything that you would leave off due to lack of time on this island?

Muake Hill

Hakaui waterfall

Anaho Bay-great beaches

Paeke-archaeological site

Temehea Pae Pae

Taipivai Valley

Te I’Poka-stunning ruins

Marquises Rando

Thanks for all of your advice!!! You are such a great help!!

Steph

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It's been a while that I have been been to Nuku Hiva and I heard some dirt roads are now paved. It is a wonderful island with minimal infrastructure. Large cruise ships are overwhelming. If you want to do it on your own, reserve a car way ahead and don't try to see everything.

 

There was no road to see Hakaui waterfall. We came on the freighter Aranui 2 and the people who went to the waterfall hiked from the beach inland. They had to ford the creek twice. There was no road to the valley.

 

You can drive from Taiohae up to the crater rim (Taiohae lies in a sunken crater) and have a beautiful view down on the bay, then continue on to Taipivai Valley. Some beautiful views down on the fjord.

 

Continue to Hatiheu. This is a nice bay with Yvonne's restaurant where you will meet all the people on the ship's tour.

 

From Hatiheu to Anaho Bay, you have to hike up the mountain on a really rough trail. You will have a beautiful view of Anaho Bay. To reach the water, you would have to hike down and later up again and down to Hatiheu.

 

There is an interesting archelogical site in the forest above Hatiheu, but you would need a guide to find out where the hole is for the prisoners before they were killed and on which rock the beautiful girls danced and why etc. By now it is 5 o'clock and your ship has left without you.

 

You still haven't seen the cathedral ...

 

I don't remember any signs anywhere. It was more like: Take the trail up there and turn left at the fork.... in French, of course. The Aranui provided a French and an American guide.

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Thank you for your recomendations and suggestions would you suggest I try to find a private tour rather than renting a car? I am wondering if its going to be hard to get around and difficult to find the different places of interest. I think we will skip the Hakaui waterfall especially since we can only get there by boat.

Steph

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  • 3 weeks later...

We were in Nuku Hiva last week - wonderful island. I could not find private tours in advance. The Statendam offered one shore excursion. Although we rarely take a ship's tour, we opted for this one. Basically, any local with a 4 Wheel Drive vehicle lined up and took four people for a drive up the mountain and over to the other coast. We drove out in caravan stopping several times. The views of the horseshoe bay with our ship in the middle were beautiful - from about 2,000 feet up in the hills.

 

Our driver only spoke French but since my wife is French she ended up being the translator for the other couple. When we stopped, one of the drivers who spoke "English" talked about what we were seeing. On the other side of the island we stopped at a beautiful bay where locals were selling crafts and there was a sampling of tropical fruits. Herman Melville lived in this village. Because the locals with vehicles were busy with two caravans for the day, it was my understanding that those who usually do private tours were booked through the ship.

 

There were many craft stands near the tender dock - they do wonderful carving. There are places to walk in the village from the tender dock - do not miss the Catholic Cathedral. Incredible carvings - a very elaborate pulpit. There were carvings of saints - Both Mary and St. Peter (with key and fishnet) were carved with Polynesian features!

 

This is not a beach island - one small beach near the tender dock and after the beautiful options on other islands, would not recommend a beach day.

 

We thoroughly enjoyed our stop - we were here from 7:30 to 3:30.

 

Doug

Edited by Cruising Boomer
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We were in Nuku Hiva last week - wonderful island. I could not find private tours in advance. The Statendam offered one shore excursion. Although we rarely take a ship's tour, we opted for this one. Basically, any local with a 4 Wheel Drive vehicle lined up and took four people for a drive up the mountain and over to the other coast. We drove out in caravan stopping several times. The views of the horseshoe bay with our ship in the middle were beautiful - from about 2,000 feet up in the hills.

 

Our driver only spoke French but since my wife is French she ended up being the translator for the other couple. When we stopped, one of the drivers who spoke "English" talked about what we were seeing. On the other side of the island we stopped at a beautiful bay where locals were selling crafts and there was a sampling of tropical fruits. Herman Melville lived in this village. Because the locals with vehicles were busy with two caravans for the day, it was my understanding that those who usually do private tours were booked through the ship.

 

There were many craft stands near the tender dock - they do wonderful carving. There are places to walk in the village from the tender dock - do not miss the Catholic Cathedral. Incredible carvings - a very elaborate pulpit. There were carvings of saints - Both Mary and St. Peter (with key and fishnet) were carved with Polynesian features!

 

This is not a beach island - one small beach near the tender dock and after the beautiful options on other islands, would not recommend a beach day.

 

We thoroughly enjoyed our stop - we were here from 7:30 to 3:30.

 

Doug

 

 

This is a great description of the HAL tour! Thanks

 

Do you remember if the crafts stands took USD?

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This is a great description of the HAL tour! Thanks

 

Do you remember if the crafts stands took USD?

 

They took US$. Since this was our last port in French Polynesia, we used our last Polynesian Francs plus some US$ for our first purchase...dollars for the rest of our buying. All of the vendors seem to have hand-made charts to help them convert. Although we were told we could bargain, we didn't because the crafts seemed so inexpensive.

 

I don't know if you are also going to Fanning Island in the Republic of Kirabati - but this remote atoll also had incredible crafts. It was much more primitive than Nuku Hiva and there are far fewer cruise ships that stop - definitely this atoll and Nuku Hiva were highlights of the cruise - at least for us. All of French Polynesia is incredibly beautiful.

 

Doug

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They took US$. Since this was our last port in French Polynesia, we used our last Polynesian Francs plus some US$ for our first purchase...dollars for the rest of our buying. All of the vendors seem to have hand-made charts to help them convert. Although we were told we could bargain, we didn't because the crafts seemed so inexpensive.

 

I don't know if you are also going to Fanning Island in the Republic of Kirabati - but this remote atoll also had incredible crafts. It was much more primitive than Nuku Hiva and there are far fewer cruise ships that stop - definitely this atoll and Nuku Hiva were highlights of the cruise - at least for us. All of French Polynesia is incredibly beautiful.

 

Doug

 

Thanks for your reply!

 

We got the impression the first time to Nika Hiva, that they wanted XPF only, so this is good news. Will likely run out of those by the time we get to Nuka Hiva.

 

I have to look up the HAL shorex and see if they are offering the same tour there as you did. It poured with rain when we were ther, so we didn't do much. Hoping for better this time.

 

We love the Fanning Islands. I plan to stock up there, hoping to duplicate some of the pieces I bought the last time. Really, really good prices, although a lot of the seashell items came apart. Good thing I brought good glue, as that made all the difference!

 

Since you are just off the Statendam, do you have any comments, advice, ideas to share? Would appreciate your views on this cruise on this ship.

 

Thanks a lot!

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Thanks for your reply!

 

Since you are just off the Statendam, do you have any comments, advice, ideas to share? Would appreciate your views on this cruise on this ship.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

We love the smaller HAL ships and have been on the Statendam a couple of times - it seems to have been refurbished. We loved the Cruise Director - Armen - few if any of the corny jokes so many of them love to tell and he was not on the PA every few minutes announcing bingo or art sales! :D

 

They had something new on this cruise called the On Location Program - at least we were told it was new. In addition to Kainoa the port lecturer (who was fabulous) there was a cultural team headed by Paki Allen - a Tahitian who was raised in Hawaii. He brought two women who assisted. All three danced hula and Tahitian style - usually every day at 4pm in the Crow's Nest. They gave classes in hula, Tahitian dance, lei making, ukulele, Tahitian drums, Hawaiian language, and other traditional crafts. My wife went to everything and was in the Ukulele Orchestra in the show at the end of the cruise! I have written the President of HAL praising the On Location program - because we would like to see this extended to other cruises. (BTW - can you believe the President of HAL's name is Stein Kruse? He HAD to work for the cruise industry!) :D

 

Kainoa also lectured on Polynesian and Hawaiian culture and history. This was all in addition to three lecturers - anthropologist, natural scientist, and an astronomer.

 

The only negative was not HAL's fault - due to weather we could not land on Moorea but it was due to wind not rain. Our weather throughout was quite good. We were told that previous cruises had missed both Fanning and Rangiroa due to weather so we felt pretty lucky overall.

 

We also thought that the Canneleto had improved - we ended up eating there 4 nights. In addition to what we thought was an improved menu they had a list of nightly specials. With our 4 Star 50% reduction, it was well worth the extra $5 per person, in our view. As you know, there is a lot of tendering on this cruise but again the 4 Star was nice since we could just go down to the tender any time.

 

Overall this was one of our favorite cruises - but, of course, we love sea days. I think I finished more books in 30 days than I usually read in 3 months!

 

Have a great cruise!

 

Doug

Edited by Cruising Boomer
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We love the smaller HAL ships and have been on the Statendam a couple of times - it seems to have been refurbished. We loved the Cruise Director - Armen - few if any of the corny jokes so many of them love to tell and he was not on the PA every few minutes announcing bingo or art sales! :D

 

They had something new on this cruise called the On Location Program - at least we were told it was new. In addition to Kainoa the port lecturer (who was fabulous) there was a cultural team headed by Paki Allen - a Tahitian who was raised in Hawaii. He brought two women who assisted. All three danced hula and Tahitian style - usually every day at 4pm in the Crow's Nest. They gave classes in hula, Tahitian dance, lei making, ukulele, Tahitian drums, Hawaiian language, and other traditional crafts. My wife went to everything and was in the Ukulele Orchestra in the show at the end of the cruise! I have written the President of HAL praising the On Location program - because we would like to see this extended to other cruises. (BTW - can you believe the President of HAL's name is Stein Kruse? He HAD to work for the cruise industry!) :D

 

Kainoa also lectured on Polynesian and Hawaiian culture and history. This was all in addition to three lecturers - anthropologist, natural scientist, and an astronomer.

 

The only negative was not HAL's fault - due to weather we could not land on Moorea but it was due to wind not rain. Our weather throughout was quite good. We were told that previous cruises had missed both Fanning and Rangiroa due to weather so we felt pretty lucky overall.

 

We also thought that the Canneleto had improved - we ended up eating there 4 nights. In addition to what we thought was an improved menu they had a list of nightly specials. With our 4 Star 50% reduction, it was well worth the extra $5 per person, in our view. As you know, there is a lot of tendering on this cruise but again the 4 Star was nice since we could just go down to the tender any time.

 

Overall this was one of our favorite cruises - but, of course, we love sea days. I think I finished more books in 30 days than I usually read in 3 months!

 

Have a great cruise!

 

Doug

 

Good to hear that you were so pleased with everything on this cruise.

 

Interesting to hear that the 4 star priority tendering went well. This seems to be up to the CD and the last time on this cruise, it did not work well. Hoping the new CD, Alex raven, is as good as your Armen.

 

We experienced the On Location Program last year on different ships to Alaska: it was an improvement, and the Tahiti cruise sounds excellent. I am taking notes about what to expect!

 

I hope the Tahitian bunch are on ours. This sounds great and we will look forward to them.

 

Did you get to the Pinnacle? We haven't been to Caneletto for a few years but will try the Statendam's on your recommendation. The new menu sounds interesting and I like the idea of nightly specials. Was this the "sharing" concept that I read about on the HAL board?

 

Thanks for the review. Hope you don't mind the questions!

Edited by SilvertoGold
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Good to hear that you were so pleased with everything on this cruise.

 

Interesting to hear that the 4 star priority tendering went well. This seems to be up to the CD and the last time on this cruise, it did not work well. Hoping the new CD, Alex raven, is as good as your Armen.

 

We experienced the On Location Program last year on different ships to Alaska: it was an improvement, and the Tahiti cruise sounds excellent. I am taking notes about what to expect!

 

I hope the Tahitian bunch are on ours. This sounds great and we will look forward to them.

 

Did you get to the Pinnacle? We haven't been to Caneletto for a few years but will try the Statendam's on your recommendation. The new menu sounds interesting and I like the idea of nightly specials. Was this the "sharing" concept that I read about on the HAL board?

 

Thanks for the review. Hope you don't mind the questions!

 

The 4 Star tendering priority is a printed benefit on the HAL website and in the information in the cabin so I would certainly complain at the front desk if they did not allow it. We also had a letter informing us of our priority in our cabin. The CD asked one time that Four and Five Star come to get a tender ticket - but we did not do this - our cabin on A Deck was only a few feet from the entrance to B deck and the tenders so we just walked down when we were ready. Our opinion is - it is either a benefit or it is not....a truth in advertising issue in our view.

 

Never had a problem - just showed our keys and said "Four Star." I never saw a full tender. Fanning was apparently a problem with hours of waiting for the tender tickets but this was for people who waited too late in the morning. However, we headed down the minute they said the tenders were ready and we were on the first tender and it was not at all full. Glad we went early...saw the islanders setting up their stands and saw the Post Office set up under a tarp!

 

We ate at Pinnacle one night and it was as good as usual - they do not have the flights of wine like in the past - that we liked.

 

Not sure what you mean by the "sharing concept."

 

The Canneleto staff was so nice - in some ways better and less stuffy than Pinnacle. Of course, we became regulars so they were always glad to see us. The manager who is also the Lido manager was doing things to attract business. He said that on longer cruises he adds the optional menu items to add variety. This was usually one additional appetizer, one added main course, and one new dessert. Canneleto was never full and we only made a reservation the first night we went. From then on, we just showed up - usually between 6 and 6:30.

 

To be honest, we have gotten a little tired of the main Dining Room - it takes so long and the stewards seem to have more tables than in the past. Although we now like the Anytime Dining, it is a juggling act for the stewards. We probably went to the Lido for dinner as often as the Main Dining Room - especially since we like to make our own salads and to pick several vegetables with a main course. Besides - there is always the sinful HAL cookies for dessert! :D

 

Something else that was new to us - the Evening Shows were at 6:30 - 8:00 - and 10:00. In the past, our HAL ships only had two shows. For the special local shows - Honolulu and in Papeete - there was only one show.

 

Doug

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The 4 Star tendering priority is a printed benefit on the HAL website and in the information in the cabin so I would certainly complain at the front desk if they did not allow it. We also had a letter informing us of our priority in our cabin. The CD asked one time that Four and Five Star come to get a tender ticket - but we did not do this - our cabin on A Deck was only a few feet from the entrance to B deck and the tenders so we just walked down when we were ready. Our opinion is - it is either a benefit or it is not....a truth in advertising issue in our view.

 

Never had a problem - just showed our keys and said "Four Star." I never saw a full tender. Fanning was apparently a problem with hours of waiting for the tender tickets but this was for people who waited too late in the morning. However, we headed down the minute they said the tenders were ready and we were on the first tender and it was not at all full. Glad we went early...saw the islanders setting up their stands and saw the Post Office set up under a tarp!

 

We ate at Pinnacle one night and it was as good as usual - they do not have the flights of wine like in the past - that we liked.

 

Not sure what you mean by the "sharing concept."

 

The Canneleto staff was so nice - in some ways better and less stuffy than Pinnacle. Of course, we became regulars so they were always glad to see us. The manager who is also the Lido manager was doing things to attract business. He said that on longer cruises he adds the optional menu items to add variety. This was usually one additional appetizer, one added main course, and one new dessert. Canneleto was never full and we only made a reservation the first night we went. From then on, we just showed up - usually between 6 and 6:30.

 

To be honest, we have gotten a little tired of the main Dining Room - it takes so long and the stewards seem to have more tables than in the past. Although we now like the Anytime Dining, it is a juggling act for the stewards. We probably went to the Lido for dinner as often as the Main Dining Room - especially since we like to make our own salads and to pick several vegetables with a main course. Besides - there is always the sinful HAL cookies for dessert! :D

 

Something else that was new to us - the Evening Shows were at 6:30 - 8:00 - and 10:00. In the past, our HAL ships only had two shows. For the special local shows - Honolulu and in Papeete - there was only one show.

 

Doug

Interesting post, great info!

 

When the Westerdam was doing this cruise, they had an unfortunate choice for CD. He made us wait and wait in the "designate 4 star area" until every last one of the shorex were off. The second time, he walked off and we were behind the last of the shorex and the first of the regulars with their tender tickets.

 

Caneletto is supposed to be rolling out a new menu, where you pick 2 appetizers per 2 diners, 1 pasta and 2 entrees. This would work better for groups, I think.

 

HAL seems to be going 3 shows a night, at least last year in Alaska they did. Love the local shows and will add this to my list of when to expect them.

 

Do you know I can't get your website. Do you still have one?

 

Many thanks. I am still thinking of questions for you!

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Interesting post, great info!

 

When the Westerdam was doing this cruise, they had an unfortunate choice for CD. He made us wait and wait in the "designate 4 star area" until every last one of the shorex were off. The second time, he walked off and we were behind the last of the shorex and the first of the regulars with their tender tickets.

 

Caneletto is supposed to be rolling out a new menu, where you pick 2 appetizers per 2 diners, 1 pasta and 2 entrees. This would work better for groups, I think.

 

HAL seems to be going 3 shows a night, at least last year in Alaska they did. Love the local shows and will add this to my list of when to expect them.

 

Do you know I can't get your website. Do you still have one?

 

 

 

Many thanks. I am still thinking of questions for you!

 

My travel blog is at http://www.travelswithmydoug.com

 

Actually, the Pinnacle had something like the Menu option you mentioned - a lot like you would find in a restaurant in France. There were several options in the three categories - appetizer, main course, and dessert. But - you could not pick one of the appetizers on this list, for example, and the rest of your dinner from the traditional menu.

 

That CD on the Westerdam would have gotten a strongly written negative comment from me...during the cruise! They either provide the benefit or they don't - but if they don't then they should stop publicizing it as a benefit. BUT - I just checked on the website and it is somewhat strange - they list the benefit plus priority disembarkation and check-in. There is an asterisk for the three benefits that says to check on the HAL website for more information. I have tried everything and find no additional information anywhere. I have found that calling HAL is somewhat useless - except for calling the Mariners' line. Since I am now curious about this, I may call them this afternoon.

 

Doug

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I just called the Mariner's phone line - really nice person who answered my questions. He said that the CD was wrong and that he would recommend sending a letter or calling them to let them know. As he said, they want to know about these things so they can fix them.

 

Of course, he had no idea what the asterisk referred to. I did find a list of FAQs on the website, and there was an explanation about the priority check-in and priority disembarkation but nothing on the tendering. So - who knows!!

 

Doug

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I just called the Mariner's phone line - really nice person who answered my questions. He said that the CD was wrong and that he would recommend sending a letter or calling them to let them know. As he said, they want to know about these things so they can fix them.

 

Of course, he had no idea what the asterisk referred to. I did find a list of FAQs on the website, and there was an explanation about the priority check-in and priority disembarkation but nothing on the tendering. So - who knows!!

 

Doug

 

Hi, Doug

 

Again, interesting!

 

I have contacted the Mariner Society in the past about the no-show of a 4 star benefit. They do want to know about these occurrences, but I don't think they have a clue how much it all depends on the CD or Hotel Manager, or whoever is in charge of a specific benefit, on any given ship. If they had a Mariner coordinator on each ship, things would likely be much different. I believe Cunard does this, maybe another line as well.

 

Do you know how many 4 and 5 Mariners there were on this cruise? Did they put on an Explorers Lounge party for handing out the medallions before the actual Mariner's Brunch?

 

I plan to read your blog for the cruise right now. I am sure I will be able to come up with more questions!

 

Thanks!!

 

My email: rentalrichmond@gmail.com

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  • 6 months later...
On January 2nd our ship is tendering into Taiohae. I have researched on various websites to come up with this list of places to see. Our cruise ship is on this island from 8:00am-5:00pm. My question is, is this a good island to rent a car and drive to these places? Also is this the best use of our time on this island? Do you have any other suggestions of what we should do? Is there anything that you would leave off due to lack of time on this island?

Muake Hill

Hakaui waterfall

Anaho Bay-great beaches

Paeke-archaeological site

Temehea Pae Pae

Taipivai Valley

Te I’Poka-stunning ruins

Marquises Rando

Thanks for all of your advice!!! You are such a great help!!

Steph

 

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We were there in April. It is a beautiful island with archaeological sites.

The roads are mostly paved. We made our way to Yvonne's stopping several times & then it was a good 1 1/2hr drive back to the ship. If you can see in one of the photos there is a horse crossing the road. We encountered horses, cows, bulls, chickens and dogs on the road during our drive, a good reason why I would not recommend renting a car, also your time is limited so a tour guide would take you from place to place more efficiently. Jocelyne offers a few tours in a larger van. jocelyne@mail.pf. We booked with Claude Gerard claudepua@mail.pf which was- every available 4X4 showed up at the dock and drove 4pers. around. You could ask for a private tour but they seem to prefer to travel by convoy.

I would not do a boat excursion for this island, best explored on land. I would book a tour ASAP , there are not many options and it is not a DIY port.

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  • 3 weeks later...

We are booked on HAL's cruise to Hawaii and French Polynesia leaving San Diego Feb. 2015. We'd like to know how to spend some leisure time in Nuku Hiva's tender port. We can walk any distance, and we like to walk just for the sake of doing it, providing it's safe, which we imagine must surely be the case in Nuku Hiva.

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We are booked on HAL's cruise to Hawaii and French Polynesia leaving San Diego Feb. 2015. We'd like to know how to spend some leisure time in Nuku Hiva's tender port. We can walk any distance, and we like to walk just for the sake of doing it, providing it's safe, which we imagine must surely be the case in Nuku Hiva.

Most of the interesting sites are not within walking distance. I strongly recommend an excursion, Nuku Hiva's inland is beautiful don't miss it. Save the leisure walking for another port!

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