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I used to carry at least 50 lbs of camera equipment. 2 bodies and lots of lenses and stuff. this changed with advent of digital cameras. i could not afford the top of the line slr types so made do with a point and shoot. on the way to our last cruise I broke my latest digital camera ...fuji 10 megapixel and 15 times zoom. taking the bag with the camera in it out of the back seat and it fell out...so looked at the rebel and some other slr type digital. very nice but back to carrying more than one lens. decided to go for a newer fuji with 12 megapixels and 18 times zoom. does video. does panorama shots. all this for $229 and it fits nicely into the hand. great camera for the price

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Canon Ti1 and TI2 are really good DSLRs, that combined with the best lineup of consumer and high end zooms/primes makes it a smart choice.

You can find reviews here:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/WB/WB.HTM?view=dp_slr_consumer

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/T1I/T1IA.HTM

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/T2I/T2IA.HTM

For 90% of my candids a 200-400 dollar compact P&S for sharing on web or printing 4x6 you can't tell any difference.

 

Think thru what you really want. DSLR excel in giving you the most in performance. Performance as focus speed, frame rate, low light, flash options, and extreme focal length lenses ( IE super wide or super telephoto) and printing poster size prints. Really for most of us we rarely need or push our cameras to that limit. But those that do need that you are going to carry something much bigger, heavier,and spend a lot more to. For those that love the act of shooting as much as the result a DSLR can be very satisfying for others the latest P&S could be all you need.

 

If you get serious both lense and body are important, but what you choose depends a LOT on what you plan to shoot and what performance do you expect from it. People say buy good lenses as they never depreciate, but these better lenses always cost a lot, sometimes more than the bodies and if you don't need the performance becomes both a drag on your body and your pocket book.

 

My first SLR....interested in the Canon Rebel...

Can anyone recommend which one? Is it the megapixels or the lens that is most important when purchasing?

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated...

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Anything over 10 MP will produce prints suitable for enlargements large enough for wall display... provided you hold the camera still and have a lens capable of producing sharp well focused results.

 

Any of the current crop of sub-$1000 entry level cameras with their image-stabilized kit lenses (Sony, Olympus and Pentax don't offer stabilized lenses since their in-body stabilization makes all lenses attach stabilized) will fill these criteria. Obviously, if you want the advantages of the more pro-oriented lenses (large, constant aperture, increased sharpness, lower distortion), you can pick one up when you buy the body or later. Keep in mind that a top-end 24-70 f/2.8 zoom from any of the top manufacturers will set you back around $1500+ and the same lens from a third-party manufacturer like Sigma or Tamron, though much less, still costs as much as an entry-level DSLR body.

 

The bottom-line answer is that between MP and lens, the lens is the most important of the two with the caveat that modern kit lenses are pretty darn good.

 

Dave

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I have an XSi from Canon and really love it. It was my first SLR and I got Canons L glass to go along with it. Personally I would buy the cheapest Canon body you can find and pick up some high quality glass!

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Not trying to start an argument but lens is NOT most important! Its like saying the speakers are most important element in a stereo system. The situation is far more complex.

 

The safe rule of thumb is that $ spent on glass doesn't depreciate much and L glass can often be resold for 90% to 110%+ of their purchase price. That in itself is no reason to say go out and spend lots of money on L / 2.8 glass and less on the body. For outdoor shooting and many vacation situations a P&S, DSLR coupled with a consumer lense shooting at F5.6 or F8 would be hard pressed for a pro looking on the web or at 8x10 to tell it apart from same DSLR shooting with a 4x the cost and 2x heavier 2.8 zoom or smaller prime.

 

Its an age old debate do I spend $ on glass or body. The downside to body is they depreciate. If pixelpeeping for corner sharpness is part of the joy then get the most expensive glass, if shooting to get the best picture one can see get the right glass ;)

 

By this argument one should pick up a 40D used on CL and use the extra dollars saved on glass. Actually a good idea but not for everyone. Most are actually well served buying consumer body and consumer zoom and only move up when they have the need. Of course if one has the dough then they should just get the 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8 and F4, and a few primes to go with their 5DMKII and a 7D while they are at it :D

 

Cheers

 

Like said earlier, lens is most important.
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I have a Rebel XT, so I can't advise you on which of the current models to purchase... but, I did not buy the latest model out when I bought this one. I chose to purchase a lens! Any of the lenses that come with the camera (unless you get some kind of a package deal) are going to be basic, dare I say "crappy" lenses. Any supplementary lens you purchase will likely be far better. My advice would be to spend the money on lenses (or save for future lenses). If and when you upgrade your camera body in the future, you can keep and use all the lenses you have with your new camera (given it's the same brand and they'll fit). Good luck! I have been very happy with my Rebel, although I must admit it is often bulky to carry around and I choose a P&S for most things.

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I got a t1i when it came out and I pretty happy with it. Would love to upgrade to a t2i, mostly because of the video upgrade, but I would say that if you are not used to shooting with SLRs you will be pretty happy with the lens that comes with t1i. As a general rule you don't need a lot of megapixels unless you are planning on printing big.

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I went to a camera shop ready to purchase a Nikon D90 after about a year of reading great reviews. I walked out of the store with a Canon T2i instead. I'm sure both are equally capable of taking excellent pictures, but the salesman showed me the pros and cons of each and I went with the Canon instead. It had more megapixels and Full HD video capabilities. I also spent extra money on some excellent lens to go with my camera.

So far, I'm absolutely in love with my purchase and can't wait to devote more time to learning how to take advantage of all the features.

I think the best advice for purchasing a camera is to go to a camera store with knowledgable staff and let them show you the features of comparable cameras that are in your price range. then you can choose for yourself which camera is the best fit for you.

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The Canon Ti2 is an excellent camera and the 'best' entry level camera DSLR IMHO. BTW, I don't mean "entry" in any bad way. With what is a esentially a 7D sensor its class leading and more value than the D90.

 

But comparing to a D90 and choosing it because of pixels or HD is well.. kind of like going in to buy a E class mercedes and coming out buying a 3 class BMW because it had more HP and faster 0-60.. sorry not exactly the perfect analogy but there is so much to 1080 versus 720 versus pixels versus menu, body build etc. etc.

 

Happy shooting

 

 

I went to a camera shop ready to purchase a Nikon D90 after about a year of reading great reviews. I walked out of the store with a Canon T2i instead. I'm sure both are equally capable of taking excellent pictures, but the salesman showed me the pros and cons of each and I went with the Canon instead. It had more megapixels and Full HD video capabilities. I also spent extra money on some excellent lens to go with my camera.

So far, I'm absolutely in love with my purchase and can't wait to devote more time to learning how to take advantage of all the features.

I think the best advice for purchasing a camera is to go to a camera store with knowledgable staff and let them show you the features of comparable cameras that are in your price range. then you can choose for yourself which camera is the best fit for you.

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Be prepared, it is an addictive hobby. I started about 2yrs ago with an XSi and kit lens. Now I have 2 bodies, and 6lenses ranging from 10mm-400mm, most of which are Canons 'L' series lenses. It can become very costly, but is an extremely rewarding hobby. Happy Shooting!!

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I had planned on going SLR a few months ago but ended up with a Canon SX20 is. It's really the best of both point and shoot / SLR. I try to not use digital zoom but with it activated I can get up to 80x, 20x without it. I would have to look at the barrell to see what that converts to m wise. I can do full manual but lean towards AV mode most of the time. DOF is huge which makes it a little tricky to do bokeh shots but I figured out how. It has a 52mm lens but I bought a step up so I can use 58mm filters. I leave the UV filter on at all times and switch between a ND filter and a PL filter as needed. I'll be ordering a macro filter in the near future for it. I also purchased a Nissin Di622 flash. It's a big heavy gun but does a good job and links really well with the ettl.

 

It's a great unit, I think it was around $350.

 

A friend of mine just picked up a T2 with the kit lens and a 55-200m lens and while a beginner, is getting stunning shots out of it.

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Be prepared, it is an addictive hobby. I started about 2yrs ago with an XSi and kit lens. Now I have 2 bodies, and 6lenses ranging from 10mm-400mm, most of which are Canons 'L' series lenses. It can become very costly, but is an extremely rewarding hobby. Happy Shooting!!

 

You got that right. I have more $ invested my bag ( Tenba Messenger) than my wife has in her camera ( Nikon L20)

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The Canon Ti2 is an excellent camera and the 'best' entry level camera DSLR IMHO. BTW, I don't mean "entry" in any bad way. With what is a esentially a 7D sensor its class leading and more value than the D90.

 

But comparing to a D90 and choosing it because of pixels or HD is well.. kind of like going in to buy a E class mercedes and coming out buying a 3 class BMW because it had more HP and faster 0-60.. sorry not exactly the perfect analogy but there is so much to 1080 versus 720 versus pixels versus menu, body build etc. etc.

 

Happy shooting

 

Actually, there were alot of reasons I picked the T2i over the Nikon- but mainly it was a knowledgeable salesperson who showed me an abundance of features that I liked better. I have soo much to learn though- I confess to being a total newbie in the DSLR field and can't wait to learn how to take professional quality pics. I'm hoping to take some classes as time allows [and always welcome advice from the more experienced:)].

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I suggest picking up a copy of Understanding Exposure. It's an excellent read. READ READ READ at

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php

It's a great forum

 

And if you want to learn some easy yet neat "trick" skills check out

http://www.dslrtips.com/workshops/DSLR_workshops_tutorials_tips.shtml

 

And if you're into putting together your own rigs, check out

http://www.diyphotography.net/

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I suggest picking up a copy of Understanding Exposure. It's an excellent read. READ READ READ at

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php

It's a great forum

 

And if you want to learn some easy yet neat "trick" skills check out

http://www.dslrtips.com/workshops/DSLR_workshops_tutorials_tips.shtml

 

And if you're into putting together your own rigs, check out

http://www.diyphotography.net/

 

Thanks so much for the tips- I've been browsing online looking for some good how-to sites. POTN was one of the first sites I found and have already found my new favorite message board [next to CC of course].

I'll check out the other sites as well.

 

The next thing I'd love advice on is which computer program I should use to get the brillant colors and other development ideas for my pics. What program does everyone like or use? Do I have to shoot in RAW format to take advantage of these programs. Thanks!

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Thanks so much for the tips- I've been browsing online looking for some good how-to sites. POTN was one of the first sites I found and have already found my new favorite message board [next to CC of course].

I'll check out the other sites as well.

 

The next thing I'd love advice on is which computer program I should use to get the brillant colors and other development ideas for my pics. What program does everyone like or use? Do I have to shoot in RAW format to take advantage of these programs. Thanks!

 

Photoshop Elements is a good place to start. Many who have purchased Elements have never found the need to upgrade to Photoshop CS. It will handle RAW, but will also do a great job on JPEG straight out of the camera.

 

Paint Shop Pro X3 from Corel is another good, inexpensive editor.

 

I personally use Picasa to organize and do small edits and Photoshop Elements to do the heavier lifting when needed. I may return to Photoshop and upgrade to CS5, but only for some specific special effects I need for a project. Truly, Elements does 98% of what most people ever need to do to a photo.

 

Dave

 

 

Dave

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Thanks so much for the tips- I've been browsing online looking for some good how-to sites. POTN was one of the first sites I found and have already found my new favorite message board [next to CC of course].

I'll check out the other sites as well.

 

The next thing I'd love advice on is which computer program I should use to get the brillant colors and other development ideas for my pics. What program does everyone like or use? Do I have to shoot in RAW format to take advantage of these programs. Thanks!

 

I agree with pierces that Photoshop Elements 8 is probably a good next step for software for processing your photos.

 

If you really get into photography and end up taking lots and lots and lots of pictures, you'll need a more efficient way of organizing and processing them. You can try looking at either Lightroom or Aperture. I actually do about 90-95% of my post-processing in Lightroom, so about 5% (maybe up to 10%) of my photos get additional work in Photoshop (or Photoshop Elements). It's not uncommon for photographers to have both Lightroom (or Aperture) and Photoshop (or Photoshop Elements).

 

So all the things you talk about (ex. getting brilliant colors, other development ideas), I do all that in Lightroom.

 

You should be able to do all you post-processing on RAW and JPEG files, regardless of whichever software you end up getting. You're not limited to only RAW files.

 

Hope that helps. :)

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Thanks Dave and Picsboy for all the tips- I think I'll start out with Photoshop Elements and see what I can do!

 

I think that's a great idea. If you're going to invest in Photoshop Elements, you should also probably get a book about how to use that software, too. I really like Scott Kelby's Photoshop books, so I'd recommend his The Photoshop Elements 8 Book for Digital Photographers book (link to Amazon).

 

Photoshop Elements is already pretty overwhelming if you don't have any previous experience with post-processing. Scott Kelby does a great job making it very easy. His books are written step-by-step and include LOTS of pictures and LOTS of screen captures. If you get a chance, stop by your local bookstore to browse through this book, and you'll quickly see what I'm talking about.

 

If you're going to buy a book, you might as well also add Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson (link to Amazon). It's one of the most-recommended books to help you understand the very basics of photography (ex. aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc). There's a new version of this book coming out in August 2010.

 

Hope that helps! :)

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To be perfectly honest...

 

For most editing I use Windows Live Picture Viewer's "Fix" mode. It has several features ( Windows 7) and I do a lot on there. Depending on what exactly I want to do, small things I just use Photoscape, it's a free download. I also use PaintShop Pro and I'm trying to learn Gimp ( another free program)

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To be perfectly honest...

 

For most editing I use Windows Live Picture Viewer's "Fix" mode. It has several features ( Windows 7) and I do a lot on there. Depending on what exactly I want to do, small things I just use Photoscape, it's a free download. I also use PaintShop Pro and I'm trying to learn Gimp ( another free program)

 

Good point re: gimp

 

It is a free, very powerful image manipulator. Gimp has a unix background but has been ported to Windows (and,, via a kludge, to OS X). You can do some very serious work with it. If one is interested in "graduating" from Adobe Elements or a similar program but doesn't want to spend the big bucks for a full Photoshop or the medium bucks for Corel Draw, gimp is a great way to go.

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I think that's a great idea. If you're going to invest in Photoshop Elements, you should also probably get a book about how to use that software, too. I really like Scott Kelby's Photoshop books, so I'd recommend his The Photoshop Elements 8 Book for Digital Photographers book (link to Amazon).

 

Photoshop Elements is already pretty overwhelming if you don't have any previous experience with post-processing. Scott Kelby does a great job making it very easy. His books are written step-by-step and include LOTS of pictures and LOTS of screen captures. If you get a chance, stop by your local bookstore to browse through this book, and you'll quickly see what I'm talking about.

 

If you're going to buy a book, you might as well also add Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson (link to Amazon). It's one of the most-recommended books to help you understand the very basics of photography (ex. aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc). There's a new version of this book coming out in August 2010.

 

Hope that helps! :)

Thanks- I just ordered two books and am going to shop around locally for Photoshop first, but will probably end up ordering it as well. I'm taking a trip to Costa Rica this summer and want to learn as much as possible for I go!

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