The Story of our trip to Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador & Galapagos Trip 31.7 to 15.8.10

[caramelo]

We arrived at the airport in Quito at 15:15pm and everything went perfectly well, our bags were there waiting for us, and our new guide and driver Silvia and Carlos.

The first poster we saw at the airport reminded us that we were in the middle of the world:

 

 

 

 

 

This other image is of the colorfuls culpture that exists in the Mariscal Sucre airport in Quito, Ecuador, dedicated to the Amazon River, on the right side the text reads: "This is Gloria de Quito Discovery of the Amazon"

 

 

When we left the airport these have been some of the first images we saw of Quito:

 

 

 

 

 

And in this row of commercial premises we saw one that sold meat, kebabs etc., and even, I felt sorry, but there were also pigs:

 

 

 

Being very limited with time in Quito we started our tour directly at 15:30pm before it got dark.

[caramelo]

We thought that if we came to Quito and did not visit the place where the equator crosses the country and the world, it was like not having been in Ecuador.

 

 

We had to go 40 minutes north of the capital to San Antonio de Pichincha to find this, but there is not only one monument but two.

Our first stop was the IntiñanSolar Museum, a very interesting museum about the indigenous cultures of Ecuador and the properties of the equator line:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Among the attractions, you can see replicas of the Indigenous people and the items used by them, as well as the clothing of the prehispanic settlers and the type of housing and customs of the Wuaraoni race:

 

[caramelo]

 

We saw some original huts from the year 1875

 

 

 

 

 

A place of burial, the deceased is placed in a tight fetal position in a pot like the one in front of dark color (although I do not understand how you can fit inside as I don´t think even a cat would fit!) and the remaining artifacts are for them to have,and on the right hand there is a pot where they even put food for the deceased:

 

 

 

 

 

We even saw some guinea pig, which, as explained in the chapter of Cuzco, is typical of the area and originally from theAndes.

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

We saw some totems with different meanings, concepts and origins:

 

 

 

 

 

To demonstrate the properties of the line, the guide who had showed us the museum conducted a series of equatorial related experiments all of which fascinatingly work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the Ecuador, as well as weighing a little less, you do not have the strength that you have elsewhere, or you look like you´re drunk trying to walk a straight line with your eyes closed, I don´t have photos but it's true, I was unable to walk in a straight line, and I hadn´t even had a drink!

 

The next pictureis not me,but one taken from the Internet, but it serves to give the idea of the experiment and of one who can not walk a straight linealong the Ecuador line:

 

 

[caramelo]

Finally they showed that you can balance an egg on a nail, also due to the Coriolis effect. I did not manage it......it was too difficult but my husband did, and at the end he got a certificate!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

They also explained the Coriolis force and the effect is totally different within only a meter of distance depending on the point where you are standing and where you make the observation.

For example, when the basin is places directly on the equator line itself with one have on the left of the line and the other have on the right, in other words, in the middle of the equator line, then when the plug is opened and the water goes out, it just goes straight out and the leaves move neither clockwise nor anticlockwise but just goes straight down.

 

 

 

 

 

While in the northern hemisphere, the water goes down the drain in an anti-clockwise direction, but in the south it is clockwise. I have no idea as to how this can change so much in a total distance from one point to the other of 2 meters, but it works and I saw it!

 

 

 

 

The equator crosses through the museum and determines the latitude 00°00'00 mathematically calculated by GPS and by satellite. The native sages from the valley of Lulumbamba discovered, through solar and astronomical observations, that on the 21st of March and the 21st of September, the sun is falling directly onto the valley and there is no shade on Quito, the "land of the vertical sun, on a strip of hundred meters.

 

 

 

[caramelo]

Between the two dates of the equinoxes in March and September, the bodies do not cast any shadow because the sun is perfectly in the overhead, so the sun's rays fall perpendicularly on the equator (Ecuador). This phenomenon can only be appreciated in the parallel of latitude zero zero, at 12 noon on these dates for about 5min. This does not happen in Europe as it is outside of the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. In a complete cycle of sun a year, it moves from the Tropic of Capricorn to the Cancer and returns to Capricorn, then passes twice by Ecuador on the 23rd ofSeptember and the 21st ofMarch.

 

An accurate sundial, unique in the world, that contains both sides of the equator, a stone cropping calendar of the 4 seasons index which indicates the solstices of June 21 the longest day in the global North and the December 21 South and equinoxes of March 21and September 23 when the sun is perpendicular and no shadow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following image is the Monument to the Equator seen from the Solar Intinan Museum:

 

 

 

 

Between 1979 and1982 a monument of 30 meters was built the point where it was believed that the equator was going through the country at that time and over the years, countless tourists have photographed crossing the line. Residents say among other things, that putting one foot in the northern hemisphere and one foot in the southern hemisphere one weighs less! But really the whole structure is 240m south where the real Equator line actually is, and which was proven by the recent GPS technology (which now houses the Museum Intiñan which had previously visited.)

 

We then went to see the monument that marks the Equatorial Line at zero latitude 240m away from the Museum Intiñan.

These were our first images with the name Ciudad Mitad del Mundo, (town of the Middle of the World) the images should be next to each other, but here is one below the other:

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

And the Middle of the World Town scanned from a postcard:

 

 

 

And on the way to the monument:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And on the way we passed the planetarium and the signof the"Pacha Mama" or "Mother Earth " who is so respected and loved in these countries:

 

 

 

 

 

The monument is a pyramid with each side pointing to a cardinal direction, and is crowned by a globe of 4.5min diameter and 5 tons:

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

Inside the monument is a small museum that displays items from the indigenous culture of Ecuador, such as clothing, descriptions of the various ethnic groups,and samples of their activities.

The Middle of the World contains a sign for the latitude0° and a yellow line separating the two hemispheres: North and South, then, you just take a step from one to enter the other:

 

 

 

Having finished these two visits we went to the center of the city of Quito.

San Francisco de Quito, or simply Quito is the capital city of the Republic of Ecuador and the of the province of Pichincha. Its average altitude is of2850 meters making it the second highest administrative capital of the world (after LaPaz) and the highest official capital of the world. The population of the city for 2010 is calculated as 1,640,478 and 2,215,820 inhabitants if we include all the suburbs because the city is divided into 32 parishes,which are subdivided into districts.

We managed to arrive just before dark.From a height we saw these views of the city of Quito:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Silvia, our guide,explained that Quito was celebrating between the 1st and the 10th of August their festivals for the First Cry of Independence (August 10, 1809) and the establishment of the first Board of Governors of Quito.

 

 

Because of the festival all the roads leading to the centre of town were closed and traffic was chaos, but we were extremely lucky with Silvia, the guide, and Carlos the driver, who knew all the back streets to avoid traffic and when we arrived at the centre there was an important street where we wanted to go and if we couldn´t use this street then we would have lost about 30 minutes (and it was already nearly dark), but Silvia managed to get us through by telling the police that she lived on this street and had to get through, and it worked, ha ha ha

From the top coming down to the center we first saw the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus which is considered by its dimensions one of America's largest basilicas. It is one of the most important neo-Gothic architecture of Ecuador and its structure and style is compared with two of the great cathedrals of the world: the Basilica of Saint Patrick, located in New York and the Cathedral of Notre Dame,Paris. It is 115 meters high and consists of 24 chapels representing the different provinces of the county. The central nave of the church is 140 meters long, 35 wide and 30 meters high which there are14 bronze images that represent 11 apostles and and 3evangelists. This shrine was inaugurated and blessed by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Ecuador on 18 January 1985.

 

 

 

 

At the highest point of the main tower, one can see the city and surrounding mountains.

 

[caramelo]

 

Also from there you can see the Panecillo Hill which is a natural elevation of 3,000 meters above sea level, nestled in the heart of the city of Quito. Because of its location it has become the most important natural viewpoint with panoramic city views. The Panecillo Hill is the place where theVirgin of Quito is located, a giant aluminum sculpture there since1976 and it is said that everyone goes there to pray for their dreams to come true.

 

 

 

 

Then we came down to the historic center through these streets:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was now getting dark quickly.

We went to Independence Square or Plaza Grande (colonial name), around which stands the Archbishop's Palace, the Municipal Palace, the Hotel Plaza Grande and the Metropolitan Cathedral.

We saw the Statue of Independence, which was just what they were celebrating with their festival these days in Quito:

 

 

[caramelo]

You can see the Government Palace on the right of the photo with the stone columns and the front is the cathedral:

We saw the Government Palace when it was almost dark and the streets in the centre were crowded with people ready for the festivities. This building is the headquarters of government and official residence of the President of the Republic of Ecuador and was built between the 17th and early 19th century. The third floor of the palace is used as the private Presidential rooms where he lives with his family. The building has many hallways and reception rooms which are used for official occasions.Access to the upper floors is restricted and is only possible to visit the ground floor.

 

 

 

 

 

The construction of the Cathedral began in the sixteenth century but was completed in the nineteenth century. It has a beautiful atrium that opens onto the square, and several sculptured room doors which stand out in its facade. In one of these, Saint Peter shows the keys of the kingdom in his hand.

 

On the opposite side of the cathedral we find the Archbishop's Palace, one of the oldest buildings in the city which today is a commercial center, with cafes and restaurants, craft sales, in the central courtyard are made artistic performances such as dances, and Ecuadorian indigenous music on Fridays from 19:30pm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were some beautiful buildings, the photos are a little blurry but will just give you an idea:

 

 

 

 

[ronniemj]

Carmelo... We have a trip planned on the Xpedition in April and I just heard there are no bathrooms facilities on galapogos. How long was each tour? Did people have problems if the tour was three to four hours and have to go back to the ship to use the bathroom. I heard if you go back you cannot return until after lunch. Do you know if people experienced any problems because of this. Thank you. Ronniemj

[caramelo]

The facade of the Hotel Plaza Grande:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Saint Agustin Church:

 

 

 

 

The San Agustin Church was built in 1573 by order of the Augustinian fathers. In 1868 an earthquake caused much damage in the structure that had to be rebuilt. In 1987 another earthquake damaged the church and to date there are still repair jobs being done. The church, at the top, has a tower measuring 37 meters high, and 3 additional meters to the statue of St. Augustine, which enhances the presence and style of the temple.

 

We walked down the ‘Street of the Seven Crosses’, more officially known as Calle García Moreno, which runs north-south through the heart of the Old Town. Along this street there are still seven crosses which is why it is named so. These are found in Hospice and in the churches of ElCarmenAlto, The Company, El Sagrario, the Cathedral, La Concepcion and Santa Barbara.

 

 

The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus which we had seen from above and now we saw it again but this time from below:

 

TheTabernacle Church:

 

 

 

 

The oldest church in Quito and its monastery, SanFrancisco:

 

 

 

[caramelo]

Just weeks after the founding of Quitoin1534, began the construction of this church, which took 70 years to complete. Atruly imposing temple, its symmetrical facade fills the landscape, the white walls, dominated by its twin bell towers and its beautiful carved stone portico, the majestic entrance make this a huge religious complex. On the main altar, the famous Bernardo de Legarda made the famous winged Virgin of Quito which is covered by a spectacular dome of baroque carving. Excavations in the church of San Francisco have unearthed several artifacts from the aboriginal time to colonial times. The find included pre-Inca pottery. Some theories suggest that the church lies over the palace of Huayna Capac, the Inca emperor.

 

We also were able to enjoy some of the local customs of the festival, such as when they took out the horses decorated with ribbons and braids etc:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end we were very tired after so much activity these past few days and the early start this morning with the concern of the flight delay, etc.., so when we finished the tour, we returned to the hotel where we enjoyed a nice quiet and relaxing night just with our dinner in the room with room service and a nice glass of wine.

 

TO BE CONTINUED ……… IN BALTRA………. ON OUR WAY TO THE GALAPAGOS.

[caramelo]

Hi Ronniemy, don´t worry about the lack of toilets in the Galapagos. This is true and as it is total nature and wild they also don´t want anyone not to respect this or go behind a bush etc. As you know in advance, you go to the toilet just before leaving the ship to go ashore. Most of the shore trips were about 2 hours and maybe maximum 3 hours so people managed. Two of the stops we had free time and they were the only islands with inhabitants and in these towns you had bars with toilets. I didn´t hear of anyone finding this a problem. You will have a super time as it really is a wonderful trip.

[caramelo]

Sunday, 8th of August

Silvia & Carlos, the guides from yesterday, collected usa t 6am for the transfer to Quito airport.

On the way to the airport we saw the bull-ring of Quito:

 

 

 

At the airport in Quito we took our flight at 7:50am to Baltra, first stopping in Guayaquil (duration 40 minutes) without getting off the plane, and continuing to Baltra (one & a half hours) arriving at Baltra about 10am local time.

Images departing from the airport of Quito:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

Here again we could see the beautiful mountains with peaks covered in snow:

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then as we descended inGuayaquil, we thought that they had had a lot of flood damage but then they explained that it was not flooding, that this was normal, it was water from rivers but there had been no damage.

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were on the plane without being able to get off and who did we see getting on the plane in Guayaquil to have a connecting flight to Baltra? Well, yes, of course, again our friends from Malta. Coincidence or more than coincidence? ......it was the 4th time that we had bumped into them by chance!

Before leaving Guaquil they had to spray the plane for the strict regulations before reaching the Galapagos:

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

These were the first images arriving in the remote area of Baltra:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was happy to see that our plane was called "Solitario or Lonesome George" after a Galapagos tortoise suspected of being the last survivor of his subspecies, as we were hopeful to possibly see him during this trip.We'll talk more about him when we reach the chapter about the Santa Cruz Islands and PuertoAyora.

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

The airport is very small and I was amused to see the suitcases arrive with a tractor and a trailer:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Galapagos Islands are a small archipelago of islands belonging to Ecuador in the eastern Pacific Ocean. The islands are quite remote and isolated, lying some 1000 km (620 miles) west of the South American continent. The Galapagos archipelago consists of 13 main islands and 6 smaller isles, which together embrace some 50,000 sq km (19,500 sq miles) of ocean.

 

 

 

 

 

The Galapagos were born from volcanos erupting violently out of the sea. Plant and animal species traversed 1000km of ocean to colonize the islands, leaving species isolated and evolving independently on different islands. Observing this had a resounding impact on the formations of Darwin´s Theory of Natural Selection and the theory of evolution by natural selection.

The Galapagos Islands consist of 13 major islands and 17 smaller islands and some 40 rocks that make up the archipelago were born from a fiery volcano deep in the Pacific Ocean. These islands have never been part of a continent, and unlike other similar islands like Hawaii, the Galapagos Islands have only relatively recently been discovered by man and more recently had human inhabitation.

The Galapagos Islands can be divided into four different areas within the archipelago: Western, Southern, Northern and Central Islands. Each region of Galapagos has distinguishing features showcasing both the geological features and the wildlife that lives there. Many Galapagos Islands have their own endemic wildlife - species found there and nowhere else in the world.

The western islands take you to the youngest of the Galapagos Islands - Fernandina and Isabela. These islands are still in the process of formation and are home to the only active volcanoes in the Galapagos Islands. Stark black lava fields cover much of these islands only pioneer plants such as cactus and mangroves that require little nutrients or soil survive.

The Southern Galapagos Islands (San Cristobal, Espanola and Floreana) are the oldest of the chain. Born millions of years ago from the Galapagos Hot Spot. Over the millennia the plates shifted and the islands drifted further away. As years progressed the volcanoes became extinct.

Cruises which visit the north will make one of the most unusual island arrivals in Galapagos. Unlike the other islands with a looming central volcano at Genovesa the caldera has collapsed. The highest point of the island is now a mere 250 foot above the sea and your yacht sails into the island's belly. To protect the area cruises holding over 40 passengers are prohibited by the Galapagos National Park.

The Central Galapagos Islands are those surrounding Santa Cruz. These islands are younger than those to the south and older than those to the west. The central Galapagos Islands retains the dry rugged look similar to the western Galapagos while being able to support a more complex mixture of plants and animals similar to the southern Galapagos.

We went through the different controls for imigration, customs, the payment of the USD$100 entrance fee to the Galápagos, etc.

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

We saw this advert hanging in the airport which I found amusing, but it is entirely correct:

 

 

 

Once all the formalities were completed we went to the Celebrity ship meeting point at the airport. As we were almost the first to arrive (we had booked our flights independently and not through Celebrity), we had to wait a while with 4 other passengers and we talked with them until we were collected with a bus to take us to the point of departure of the zodiac boats, or as they call them, pangas, which would take us to our ship the Xpedition.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

We embarked on many different cruise ships up to now, but it had never been so funny as this time, watching the first crabs, sealions and iguanas, and then everyone getting on with his handluggage into the panga or zodiac boat.

Crabs: it is a species of decapodcrustaceans of the infraorder Brachyura, is one of the most common crab on the Pacific coast and islands of South America. It is one of the characteristic species of the Galapagos Islands, where it is known as cliff crab (in English known as the Sally Lightfoot Crab) and is very abundant and easily observed by marine iguanas. The pups are black, but adults have a characteristic brown or reddish color, which tends to be blue on the bottom. It feeds on algae andsmall animal remains:

 

 

 

 

 

The first marine iguana marina which we saw:

 

 

 

 

 

And a sea lion sleeping just below where we were waiting to board the panga boat:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And these were the first images taken from the zodiac boat on the way to our ship:

 

 

 

 

And as I love the song"Guantanamera" and it took me many years to learn the meaning (the people from Guantanamo), I could not resist taking a picture with the name:

 

 

[caramelo]

And then more pleasure……… the first sight of our ship the Celebrity Xpedition:

 

 

 

 

 

And now came time for the real embarkation and we took our hand luggage and boarded the Xpedition:

 

 

 

 

 

Just to the right you will see in the next photo a pelican in the water:

 

 

Galapagos pelicans have dark brown body and white collar. They have a long beak with a bag underneath.These seabirds fly gracefully above the ocean to feed and plunge into the water with their wings spread and beak open.

[caramelo]

 

Once on board we were welcomed on the Xxpedition with a glass of champagne

Then we were taken to our respective cabins.The cabin was better than ehat we had expected and after 8 days travelling and going from hotel to hotel it was a treat to unpack and hang the clothes in the wardrobe. You need to take into account that this trip is not a normal cruise but is an expedition trip and as we were once told by the Captain of a ship on an Antarctic trip "who has come to this ship looking for the exquisite meals or the luxurious cabin has chosen the wrong ship".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Normally we should have changed the time back an hour in the Galapagos but the ship kept the time without any change to take advantage of an extra hour of daylight in the evenings and to be able to be on land more time.

We went for lunch and the ship departed at 2pm and at 4pm we had the emergency drill: