The Story of our trip to Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador & Galapagos Trip 31.7 to 15.8.10

[caramelo]

And this one with the 2 lava lizards on his back!:

 

 

 

 

Finally we saw a flightless cormorant, also known as the Galapagos cormorant. It is a cormorant native to the Galapagos Islands and is an example of the unusual fauna inhabiting these islands. It is unusual in that it is the only cormorant that has lost the ability to fly. With a population of 1,500 individuals tested, is one of the rarest birds in the world.It is found only on two islands, Fernandina, mainly in the east coast, and in Isabela, on the northern coast and west coast. Population has experienced severe fluctuations, the El Nino event in1983 caused a reduction of 50% of the population, after that there were only 400. However, the population recovered quickly and in 1999 their number was 900 individuals. This species lives in the rocky shores of the volcanic islands it inhabits. They look for food in the coastal waters and they normally do not travel further than 1km of the area where it reproduces.

 

 

The Flightless Comorant:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although they can´t swim, I think that this is a comorant in the water:

 

 

 

 

It was a very full day and another of our favourite excursions of those offered by the ship.

 

 

 

Upon returning to the ship as always enjoyed a drink with canapés chatting with other passengers.This particular hour I always enjoyed.

TO BE CONTINUED, on the Santiago Island…………..

[caramelo]

Friday, 13th of August

 

 

 

 

 

 

At 8am we had a wet landing in Puerto Egas on the Santiago Island.

 

 

 

 

Puerto Egas is a black sand beach located on the west side of James Bay in the north west of Santiago Island. The island has an area of 585km2, which means that (in size) it is the fourth largest island in the Galapagos Islands. The Sugar Loaf Volcano is located on the south side of the beach, which has deposits of volcanic tuff, the same that have favored the formation of black sand beach. The crater located north of this site, has a salt water lagoon which dries up in the summer and turns into a salt mine.

 

 

 

 

These were the first images arriving:

 

 

 

[caramelo]

And as always, the first waiting for us were the sealions!:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The hike was about 2 km and was the weakest outing of the trip where we saw relatively little compared to other days.

Yes, we saw different types of birds, such as the Smooth-billed Ani (in Spanish they are called garrapateros) which is a large near-passerine bird in the cuckoo family. It is a resident breeding species from southern Florida, the West Indies, Costa Rica, Trinidad and Tobago, south to western Ecuador, Brazil and northern Argentina.

They are introduced birds. They compete with native and endemic birds for territory and food, feed on insects and lava lizards. The garrapatero was recorded for the first time in the Galapagos in 1960.

The Smooth-billed Ani has proved to have an exceptional capacity for adaptation in a new environment. The first report of their presence was made in the 1960’s. By the middle of the 1980’s they were widely distributed on the southern part of Isabela Island on Galapagos. Today they are almost all around the archipelago.

The Smooth-billed Ani is found in open and semi-open country and cultivation. The nest, built communally by several pairs, is a deep cup lined with leaves and placed usually 2 - 6 metres high in a tree. A number of females lay their chalky blue eggs in the nest and then share incubation and feeding.

Each female is capable of laying up to 7 eggs and nests have been found containing up to 29 eggs, but it is rare for more than ten to hatch. Incubation is 13 - 15 days, with another 10 days to fledging. Up to three broods may be raised in a season, with the young of earlier broods helping to feed more recent chicks.

The Smooth-billed Ani is about 33 centimetres long and weighs 95 grams. The adult is mainly flat black, with a long tail, deep ridged black bill and a brown iris. Their flight is weak and wobbly, but this bird runs well and usually feeds on the ground. The Smooth-billed Ani is a very gregarious species, always found in noisy groups. The calls include a 'whining ooo-leeek'. The Greater Ani feeds on termites, large insects and even lizards.

The Smooth-billed Ani will occasionally remove ticks and other parasites from grazing animals. There are records of several of these birds ravaging into finch nests for either the eggs or the chicks.

This common and conspicuous species has greatly benefited from deforestation.

This species is called 'El pijul' in the Venzuelan folklore. It is mentioned in the popular Venezuelan song 'Son Jarocho'.

Smooth-billed Ani:

 

 

 

 

A Galapagos Mockingbird, a bird native to the Galapagos Islands which is included on the red list of endangered birds:

 

 

We also saw a White Heron. The white heron is slender and elegant, wearing a long neck that, in general, remains folded in an "S ". The plumage is entirely white, soft and plentiful, and the beak is long, pointed, yellow and sharpe nough to easily thread a fish and its iris is pale yellow.

The white heron:

 

 

[caramelo]

 

This time, as a change from the sea lions we saw the Galapagos fur seals. The main differences between them is the change in the type of skin or hair which you can notice in the following images:

 

 

 

 

 

And a fur seal together with an iguana:

 

 

 

The Striated Heron also known in some parts of the world as the Little Heron, is a fairly common sight in Galápagos tidal pools, mangroves, ponds and rocky shores. Similar in size to a Lava Heron, the Striated Heron is also rocky gray in color. They can be easily differentiated, however. The Lava Heron’s coloring is uniform, whereas the Striated Heron has a black crown and dappled wing feathers.

They usually perch on a branch or rock near the water’s edge, head back, waiting for a small fish or crustaceans to swim by. They then lunge forward, trapping their prey in their sharp beak and quickly gobbling it. The Striated Heron is a clever bird, occasionally dropping a leaf into the water and snapping up fish that come to look at

Sealions have small, cartilaginous external earflaps; seals lack external earflaps.

 

 

 

We saw some very nice natural bridges with some sally lightfoot crabs:

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

And the crabs with some iguanas:

 

 

 

And some marine iguanas, the first one looks as if he is waving to us!:

 

 

 

 

What nails! :

 

 

 

[caramelo]

And introducing his girlfriend to us:

 

 

Afterwards those who wanted had the chance to do some snorkling:

 

 

The last images before returning to the ship:

An iguana swimming:

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

At 3:30 pm we returned ashore with a wet landing at the place called Cerro Dragon on the Santa Cruz Island.

 

 

 

 

 

The Santa Cruz Island is an Ecuadorian island in the Pacific Ocean, part of the archipelago of the Galapagos Islands and is the second largest group of islands after the Isabela island, situated in the center of the islands. It has an area of 986 km².

We walked by a salt water lagoon behind the beach, where occasionally you can see flamingos. We didn´t see them, and only saw the lagoon:

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

Everything looked so green:

 

 

 

We saw a Black-Necked Stilt:

 

 

 

 

 

Again we saw a den or nest of the land iguana.......... so we knew that they couldn´t be very far away!

 

 

 

 

And exactly so……… very soon we found one:

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

And after we saw a brown pelican:

 

 

 

And the brown penguin with the Cerro Dragon or Dragon Hill in the background:

 

 

Just at the end we saw the sun set and a blue-footed booby:

 

 

 

We returned to the ship where we enjoyed another pleasant evening aboard.

TO BE CONTINUED ……… with the last day of excursions in the Galápagos ……… with more of the Santa Cruz Island

[Jazzbo]

Carmelo -- this is the best review I have ever read on Cruise Critic. I assume that English is a second language for you because you said at the beginning of the review that you had to translate it from Spanish. What beautiful English you write! As someone who once spoke Spanish fluently, and now "hablo solo un poquito de Espanol," I am impressed with your fluency and your ability to make me feel the wonder and joy of your fantastic journey. Your photos almost make me feel that I am there. I think I will have to add this trip to my "bucket list." Muchisimas gracias!

[fleckle]

Caramelo, I just want to add another big Thank You for sharing your wonderful journal and photos with the rest of us.

As others have stated, they are among the best we have ever seen and they are greatly appreciated.

Edited December 29, 2010 by fleckle

[May B]

What natural and man-made wonders you have introduced to us, Caramelo. I add my sincere thanks for taking so much time and care in showing us so much!

 

I am so glad you are a penguin specialist. You are also a special kind of teacher. I look forward to having my entire family read your posts.

[brazilgirl]

Caramelo...

 

Wow!!!The Galapagos photos are amazing!I can´t tell you how much I am enjoying the details , it makes me so excited about my upcoming trip.

 

We also booked our own flight to Baltra. Did you have any problems hooking up with the Celebrity land group?

 

Were there any children on the ship? If so , did they enjoy the experience?Were there any excursions which allowed "beach time" , just to be lazy in the water with the creatures?

 

Thanks again for the marvelous review.

 

Kim

[caramelo]

Thanks again all of you, Jazzbo, Fleckle, Maybo, Brazilgirl, etc. for your comments.

 

Jazzbo, I must confess that I am actually Irish, but have lived in Spain for more than 25 years, so I first did this travelogue in Spanish for a travel forum here in Spain, and now I have to translate it into English, and I am cheating using the Google translater and as I am trying to do it quickly as I don´t have too much free time after work, so I haven´t taken much care to check that the English is correct........ and after being 25 years away unfortunately my Enlish is now a bity "rusty"!!!! ;)

 

Brazilgirl: We got our own flights to Baltra but had no problem what so ever meeting the Celebrity Group. Celebrity have their own stand at the airport and as the airport is small well you can see their sign and meeting point very easy. We were lucky as our flight arrived in before the rest of the group so we just waited for them...... maybe only 30 minutes difference between our and their flight. However if your flight will arrive later than theirs then I assume you provide Celebrity with your flight & arrival details and you will have no problems.

 

There were at least 2 families with 3 or 4 children each, aged between maybe 8 and 15 and all seemed to love the trip.

 

For those who want to enjoy the beach, you will have to use the time they offer to those who want to go snorkling......... maybe about an hour or 45 minutes on at least 4 or 5 different ocasions.

 

You´ll have a great trip as it really is something special, and although I am maybe spoiling some of the surprises with my story and photos but no two trips are the same but I have heard that all trips are fascinating, so I´m sure you will really enjoy it.

 

I´ll be back soooooooooon with some more!

[caramelo]

Saturday, 1st of August

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first images arriving ashore:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

And this time it was the brown pelican who welcomed us to Santa Cruz:

 

 

In the Santa Cruz Island are the headquarters of the National Park of the Galapagos Islands, and the Charles Darwin Research Station.

The Charles Darwin Foundation conducts scientific research, biological and conservation projects for the conservation of species of the Galapagos for the last 47 years. Nearly two hundred people work there including scientists, educators, research students and volunteers. 90% of staff working in the foundation are Ecuadorian. This Foundation is an non-profit organization that depends entirely on donations from individuals, foundations, corporationsand governments around the world

The National Park Service operates a tortoise breeding center where they are prepared for reintroduction into the wild.

 

 

 

 

 

 

First we saw the following, and I was surprised to see that their necks were so long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

Then we learnt a little about the conservation of turtles, first about the incubation

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

The highlight of this trip was to see the famous Lonesome George.

 

 

 

Lonesome George, weighing 90kg (14st 2lb), is the last known individual of the Pinta Island Tortoise which is one of eleven extant subspecies of Galapagos tortoise, all of which are native to the Galapagos Islands.

Tortoises on the Galápagos have been hunted for their meat by sailors and fishermen to the point of extinction. Charles Darwin, when he arrived in the Galápagos in 1835, described how he and the crew of the Beagle lived entirely on tortoise meat. Also, the habitat of the tortoises has been eaten away by goats introduced from the mainland.

George was first seen on the island of Pinta on 1 December 1971 by American Joseph Vagvolgyi. Relocated for his safety to the Charles Darwin Research Station, George was penned with two females of a different subspecies, but although eggs have been produced, none has hatched.

Scientists have been trying to get George to mate since 1993, when they introduced two female tortoises of a different subspecies from the neighbouring island of Isabela into his pen, but he has been in no hurry to procreate.

On July 21, 2008, it was reported that George had unexpectedly mated with one of his female companions. A total of thirteen eggs were collected and placed in incubators. However, on November 11, 2008, The Charles Darwin Research Station reported that 80% of the eggs showed weight loss characteristic of being inviable. To the disappointment of the Darwin Center, by December 2008 the remaining eggs had failed to hatch and x-rays showed them to be inviable.

On 21 July 2009, exactly one year after first announcing George had mated, the Galapagos National Park announced that a second clutch of five eggs had been laid by one of George's female companions. On December 16, it was announced that the incubation period for the first 5 eggs had ended and the eggs were shown to unfortunately be inviable; also a second batch of 6 eggs laid after the first batch by the other female but also ended up being inviable.

I had read a lot about Lonesome George before going on this trip and I felt very sorry for him thinking that, because of his name “lonesome” that he must be very lonely and sad, but I was very happy to see him because he is quite the opposite, as it looks like George lives like a king in the Tortoise Breeding Center in the Galapagos National Park, surrounded by two females of the subspecies similar to his, and he is neither lonely nor sad but just so far has failed to give the offspring to ensure their continued type. I even had to laugh a lot.....because when we were looking at him...... he became “active” and climbed on top of one of the females who accompany him......but with his years he soon got tired and the funny thing is that he did not get down again, but stayed there with all his weight crushing the poor female below, and I think that he just went to sleep as he did not move any more after that!!! ha ha ha!!

 

 

 

 

I present you to Lonesome George:

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

This last photo is not a good one…….. but just for you to imaging Lonesome George “sleeping in action” on top of the poor female!:

 

 

When we had finished this visit we went back down to the center of Puerto Ayora.

These images were taken just walking through the streets of the village:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We could not miss the tree with the giant tortoise:

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

And I found the following image amusing, the Church of Hope (Iglesia de la Esperanza) next door to the discotheque Panga or Bongo!!!:

 

[caramelo]

But the funniest images were certainly those which we saw in the local fish market with the sea lions and pelicans waiting for their share, ha ha ha........and right next to this sign warning not to give foodt o the animals:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We returned to the ship and after a buffet lunch we saw a typical Ecuadorian Folkloric Show of the Galapagos on board the ship, and I really enjoyed the girls' dresses with the pictures of the Galapagos animals:

 

 

 

 

In the installment / chapter on La Paz, Bolivia, I explained that the instrument which the girl in the picture above is playing is called a charango:

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the afternoon we returned on land where we have had a walk through the Highlands of Santa Cruz Island and went to the place where you find the famous giant tortoises.

The road up to the Highlands was like this:

 

 

We saw some tortoises in the far distance:

 

 

 

 

 

[caramelo]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And it was funny to see this bird travelling on the tortoise´s back:

 

 

[caramelo]

That night......it was sad because the cruise had come to an end and it was time to say goodbye to everyone, the passengers and the staff:

 

 

 

 

These were the Naturalists or guides who explained everything to us each day on land:

 

 

 

 

And we could not be without the Bakes Alaska Cake to say farewell on the ship:

 

 

 

TO BE CONTINUEd WITH THE LAST INSTALLMENT ……… LEAVING THE SHIP IN BALTRA AND OUR DAY IN GUAYAQUIL, EQUADOR…………………