Traversing the Sea of Cortez Aboard the Amsterdam: Our Experiences

[ironin]

schoolinmy3:

 

Diane, here's hoping your tours turn out to be as fun and interesting as ours were. A good guide really can make a difference. Or at least can for me: a guide who knows when to occasionally shut up and let us enjoy the passing scenery is worth his or her weight in gold to me. ;) Thanks for commenting. (BTW, history has been a life-long interest for me as well.)

 

Aussiemick:

 

Thanks again for the compliment. I'm surprised anyone is still reading as this is taking much longer (both in time and verbiage) than even I thought it would, and I thought it would be too long when I started! I'm sorry to hear about the impact on your small village. It's a shame that even people likely to go to such out-of-the-way places aren't differentiating between what's been happening recently in the major drug cartel-infested cities (largely along the Texas border) and other areas.

[ironin]

From the Always-Forget-to-Mention-Something Dept::o

 

Some time ago, I mentioned that the three ports that infrequently host cruise ships rolled out the red carpet to welcome us. While the Topolobampo port facilities may have been the most rudimentary of our trip, they didn't just roll out the red carpet, they draped the dock and then some.

 

In the morning, we were serenaded by a mariachi band as we disembarked down the gangway. In the afternoon, amateur and professional dance troupes of different ages provided entertaining performances. A dance band followed in the evening. We weren't there during the day, but know that there was non-stop entertainment of one sort or another scheduled from morning until our departure at 11PM that night.

 

We just happened to be looking down that evening when someone finally succeeded in smashing open the giant colorful piñata that had been on display most of the day, and candy and small prizes flew in all directions. While it may be true that the day-long entertainment and activities didn't achieve Disneyesque production standards, the down-home/ straightforward/ honest simplicity of what we saw and heard was ultimately much more enjoyable and memorable than any highly-polished professional presentations would be.

[Ine]

Ports:

 

Despite the international press attention given to Mexico's serious ongoing problems with drug gangs, we never once felt uncomfortable much less unsafe. As a reassurance measure, every port we visited had an ample, very visible, and beefed-up police presence in tourist areas.

 

Contrary to the popular misconceptions propagated by those whose sole foray in Mexican territory usually amounted to a drunken evening of bar-hopping in Tijuana, everywhere we went was also remarkably clean. Sidewalks may occasionally have been as uneven as they were in many places in Great Britain, but there weren't masses of cigarette butts crammed between tree limbs (much less in the gutters) as the were all over Paris.

 

 

Thanks for the great review. We were on the same cruise and I still enjoy your very detailed descriptions of the ports we visited. I especially appreciate your words about personal safety. As a resident of Mexico, I am saddened by the large number of Americans who believe all of the media hype and are afraid to visit here. My little village is experiencing a slow death as tourists don't come, spring break tours are moved elsewhere and fishing groups cancel. And the only drug incident we have ever had was a cartel boss being arrested in his race vehicle on the Baja 250 route.

 

Thanks for that great report. We did this cruise 2 years ago and loved it. I can only second your and Aussiemick's opinion re Mexico. We are back in PVR since 1 month and will stay a few months more. (Just like we did last winter and the year before that).

We feel very much at home here, shop, eat and drive around, never had any problems. Anybody is friendly.

It is so sad that due to bad press and TV people get the idea that all of Mexico is unsafe and many tourists stay away or donot even leave the cruiseships. That is a shame for many mexicans who are having problems making an income.

[ironin]

Mazatlan is the only port that one of us had previously visited. As the plane began its final approach to General Rafael Buelna International Airport, the pilot came on the PA system and asked that I raise my hand. I did. Side-long glances ensued. A stewardess approached and asked that I remain onboard until all of the other passengers had deplaned. More side-long glances, accompanied by raised eyebrows, ensued. Once everyone else was off the plane, the pilot came back to my seat and asked me to follow him.

 

The pilot personally escorted me through the airport until we reached someone waiting for me at the entry to a dark, windowless room. My new escort accompanied me through that room and then led me up a long flight of stairs at the top of which was waiting the friend who I was visiting. I had arrived at the top of the airport control tower. My friend was the controller responsible for providing visual guidance to arriving and departing flights. Once his shift was finally over a few hours later, we went back down to the darkened room, where I was given an unforgettable tour of the international air traffic control operations inside, before heading for town. That was in 1984, when the Golden Zone wasn't terribly golden, about one flight an hour arrived or departed, and the port itself was far more basic. (Can you imagine being able to do that today? I can't)

[CowPrincess]

Ironin, thanks for the port reports. We are really looking forward to getting back to Topolobampo! Glad to hear the dancers were there :)

[MACPC]

Ironin, I enjoyed your thorough review and, like you, I'm amazed at the time and effort it actually takes to put one together. Well done!

[ironin]

MACPC:

 

Thanks for reading thus far, and for the compliment as well! After I finally finish this one, I'm not at all sure that I'll ever want to try this again.;) If I do, I'll be sure to write in Word beforehand. (Or hire an editor/copyreader :D) The many typos and grammatical errors caused by incomplete editing-on-the-fly are a mild source of embarrassment.

 

Although there are still three ports to go, I do hope to finish the review when I return later today. CowPrincess may be interested in the Mazatlan review, as (IIRC) we took the same tour as she did on an earlier voyage. Our experience and hers were almost polar opposites. (Aside to CP: Like you, we'd be happy to go back to Topolobampo anytime. Thanks, also, for continuing to follow my long, but not too tall, tale.)

 

Ine:

 

As you spend so much time there every year, your comments about Puerto Vallarta are much appreciated. Whatever I ultimately write about our port call won't begin to match your expertise. Feel free to chime in!

 

As Douglas MacArthur said when evacuated from the Philippines during World War II, "I shall return!" Unlike MacArthur, however, I shall not be accompanied by countless marine divisions and half the US Navy when I do so, nor shall it be years before I do. At least I hope not.

[ironin]

Mazatlán:

 

Having booked a tour up to the nearby Sierra Madre mountains, we spent little time in Mazatlán itself. Although the road to our ultimate destination was largely a two-lane highway, it did take some time to get out of the city and then travel over 30 miles east while climbing 2000 feet to Copala. IMO, the guide can make or break a tour like this one. Our guide, Maria, nearing retirement from her full-time job of 25 years at the district attorney's office, was outstanding. Maria was enthusiastic without being a cheerleader, informative without being a bore, and assisted passengers with vendors along the way without overstepping the boundary between helpmate and tout. Best of all, while Maria was a joy to listen to, unlike many guides on similar tours, she allowed ample time for silent appreciation of the passing scenery.

 

Our first stop on our HAL tour ("Sierra Madre, Concordia & Copala") was a field on the outskirts of Mazatlán where a family was making adobe bricks in basically the same way as they have been made for centuries. Every step of the process, from the dirt itself to the forms to the formed bricks baking in the sun to the kiln built with the formed bricks and about ready for firing, was on display. Maria did an outstanding job explaining the process, answering questions and interpreting for those who had questions or comments for the family members. The time alloted for this stop seemed ample to us.

 

Further down the road, our next stop was a potter's home and store with small wood-carving and furniture-making business attached. The emphasis here was on the craftsmen going about their work, not just the results on display and available for purchase. Maria deftly balanced her job explaining or interpreting the on-going work with helpful advice and pricing assistance for those who did wish to make purchases. (There was absolutely no pressure to buy anything on display.) Once again, we thought the time allowed for this stop was about right.

 

After climbing up into the Sierra Madre, we reached Concordia, a small city dating from colonial times. San Sebastian Church, built in the late 1500's was alone worth the stop. The Municipal Palace (a former hacienda), the town square and the surrounding buildings and side streets were charming. Although tourists do visit Concordia with some degree of regularity, the numbers must not be large as there were virtually no stores specializing in tourist items.

 

Our final destination was Copala, a four-centuries old silver mining town hugging a mountainside near its peak, thus commanding some lovely views. A century or more ago, Copala was a thriving mining town of 10,000. Today, it is a quiet village of about 600. Nature has effectively reclaimed much of the area, rendering the remaining cobblestone streets and surviving buildings built in both more, and less, prosperous all the more picturesque. A small amount of silver mining still goes on nearby, but tourism is said to be the major source of income. That comes as some surprise, because most of the stores (and there weren't that many as it is a small village) were not specifically tourist-oriented.

 

Next to the town square was a gallery of unusual masks made from fish and animal skins. Although Maria was enthusiastic about the artist and the gallery as we approached Copala, I didn't expect to be impressed, or frankly, more than mildly interested. I was wrong. The masks were outstanding. Alex, the artist, was as engaging as his work. We were shocked to discover just how reasonable the prices were as well.

 

As the streets were too narrow for our bus to enter, someone from the restaurant we eventually dined at kindly offered rides to and from the main square those with mobility issues. The restaurant was a rambling affair with some nice views. I thought the food was OK but not anything worth writing home about.

 

The return trip was quiet and uneventful. As all these particular tours apparently do, once back in Mazatlán, we stopped at Diamonds International in the heart of Mazatlán Golden Zone. We personally had zero interest in this particular destination. In fairness, passengers were not required to enter the store. Restrooms and free drinks were available to those who did. We wandered in, had our refreshment and then out and about the area. We neither observed nor heard anyone else complain about high pressure sales tactics. It was all relatively low-key. A few people did purchase silver jewelry and seemed quite pleased with their experience and their purchases.

 

Once back at the port, we took time to check out the stores both inside the fine modern cruise terminal, around the courtyard next to it and in the nearby marketplace before catching the little shuttle back to the ship (It might have been our mood at the time, but we thought the outdoor cafe in the courtyard made the best margaritas we had on the trip.)

 

NOTE: As I mentioned in an earlier post, others have had a very different experience than we did on this tour. IOW, Caveat Emptor & YMMV. I hope not, though.

[Aussiemick]

Aussiemick:

 

Thanks again for the compliment. I'm surprised anyone is still reading as this is taking much longer (both in time and verbiage) than even I thought it would, and I thought it would be too long when I started!

 

Wow, what great detail. HAL should hire you as shore excursion director. I don't know how you remember all this stuff, at my age a week ago is a long, ong time ago. Thanks again.

[ROZO'SBEAU]

We took that same ship's tour back in 2004 and your description mirrors our experience exactly. We did not feel pressured to buy (or not to buy) just as you described.

However, there was cranky curmudgeonly man in the front of the bus who loudly complained about the stops where goods were for sale and he said he was going to demand his money back. Different strokes, I suppose. You can't please everyone. What is it about seniors?? The world owes them, I guess. I was 64 back then and didn't feel that way.

[CowPrincess]

ironin, so glad you enjoyed the Concordia/Copala tour :) I don't know how to link a single post -- could you post a link on the thread where I had my comments to your comments? Or copy your post? It would certainly more than balance our experience :)

 

Am enjoying your reports!

[ironin]

Aussiemick:

 

LOL! I know what your mean. I do seem to be enjoying a temporary respite from the CRS syndrome which has been, in my case, rapidly progressing in recent years. :D

 

ROZO'SBEAU:

 

Nice to know someone else had a similar experience. I just noticed that the HAL website now has shore excursion reviews. The two reviews posted there described this one as boring. Oh well, as you say, "You can't please everyone." The last part of your comment, What is it about seniors?? The world owes them, I guess. I was 64 back then and didn't feel that way., gave me a good chuckle and brought back a fond memory:

 

Years ago, after my then-82-year-old grandfather went on at some length about "these old old folks" being dangerous drivers who ought to have their licenses taken away, my dad couldn't resist asking, "How old is old, Dad?" "Well, older than me!" was his reply. :D

CowPrincess:

 

I'll be happy to. In case you were wondering how to do it yourself in the future:

 

Every post to a thread has a # in the upper right-hand corner. (For example, your most recent post is #86 on this thread)

 

Click on that number. Depending on how your browser is set up, that post alone should pop up in a new tab or a new window.

 

After that, follow the same procedure you use to link any other web page.

[ironin]

Puerto Vallarta - Day 1:

 

As might be guessed by the post title, we went zip-lining our first day in Puerto Vallarta. HAL-sponsored zip-line tours end up at the Canopy Adventure Park, coincidentally also the current #1-rated PV attraction on TripAdvisor.

 

Our group of 15 was the first to depart, and ranged in age from early 20's to one couple celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. After hopping aboard a skiff conveniently tied up a short walk from the ship, a leisurely ride to the Vallarta Adventures office at the other side of the harbor took us past yachts of varying sizes and value, condos and private residences, and a couple of floating bars as well. Once there, we piled into a 4x4 for the trek to the park. Our route took us through Ixtapa! (OK, it wasn't the scenic Ixtapa on the coast, but an otherwise nondescript suburb of Puerto Vallarta.:D)

 

Neither of us had gone zip-lining before. I won't bore you with details. Suffice to say that both of us had a blast and we'd do it again in a heartbeat. All of the employees at the park were outgoing, encouraging and helpful as needed, while never once forgetting the mantra, "Safety first!"

 

As I recall, there were 4-5 zip-lining groups scheduled that day and one or two the second day in port. Each group was limited to 15 people, so the ship-sponsored zip-line tours apparently sold out quickly. There are quite a few independent operators to choose from, however (see a previous post above). Were we to do it again, we'd go zip-lining on the second, shorter, day in port, leaving more time to ramble around Puerto Vallarta itself.

 

After the skiff dropped us off next to the ship, we explored the port area shops. We never made it to the giant mall or the Wal-Mart just across the street, although almost every crew member we met that day did. We did sample the margaritas at one of the temporary stalls set up right next to the ship. After giving us so many tips about what to see and do the next day that we began losing track, our friendly waiter took it upon himself to go looking for someone who had a local map, found one, and then marked it up with his suggestions.

 

During the first twelve days of December, Puerto Vallarta celebrates the Festival of the Virgin of Guadaloupe. We missed out on the colorful processions but, as Dynaglyde/Roadqueen mentioned earlier in a response here, watching the fireworks that evening was a magical moment and a marvelous way to end an outstanding day in port.

[ironin]

Puerto Vallarta - Day 2:

 

While we were still port-side deciding on our options, a cab-driver, Carlos Inda, who was standing nearby, offered some few suggestions. After a few minutes of conversation, I complimented Carlos on his impeccable English spoken without a trace of accent. That's when we learned that Carlos grew up in Klamath Falls, Oregon, having moved there at age 3. Twelve years ago, at age 18, he returned to Puerto Vallarta, where he met his wife and elected to remain.

 

After we hopped in the cab, Carlos gave us some background on the areas we were passing through, the road system, and "must-sees" near our destination and beyond. Not content to just drop us off at the municipal market (our selected destination), Carlos accompanied us inside to point out which shops he thought provided good-quality merchandise. As virtually every one of them wasn't open yet, there definitely wasn't a hidden financial incentive in his unexpected but greatly appreciated service-above-the-ordinary!. We returned later and found his recommendations reliable.

 

While we were in the cab, we asked Carlos if his cab was available for hire by the hour or day. He said yes, that he did tours to Gringo Gulch, the locale where Predator was filmed, Chico's Paradise, and other places off the beaten track or at the direction of the customer. IIRC, his quoted rate starts at $20/hr. Saying he wasn't pushy is an understatement: when many might be shoving a stack of business cards in our face given our conversation, we had to ask Carlos for one as he was leaving. (FWIW, anyone interested can email Carlos at: Carlosalexxis_420(at)hotmail.com )

 

On Carlos's recommendation, we made our way across a couple of more-difficult-to-cross-than-they-looked rope bridges strung across the river before ambling around the Zona Romantica, where we ran across a neat little shop on a small street where they silk-screened their own t-shirt designs on-site. (The equipment took up most of the store.) The designs were imaginative and we picked up a couple to give to friends at home. Walking up one street, we saw a sign for a fund-raiser for the local SPCA, figured "Why not?" and joined in the fun with the people and the dogs for a while.

 

Once back on the other side of the river, our wanderings this way and that eventually brought us to the doors of the Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe while mass was being said. As luck would have it, we arrived just moments before noon and were treated to as complete a ringing of the church bells as one could ask for. The crown atop the bell tower was unique. Considered a symbol of the city, the crown was virtually destroyed by an earthquake in 1995. Materials used during the repair work done then caused some controversy and are apparently not standing the test of time. A fund-raising campaign for a proper restoration is underway.

 

Walking along the malecon was a very pleasant way to end our time in Puerto Vallarta, the numerous works of art by world-renowned sculptors gracing the area adding just that much more to our enjoyment.

[ironin]

Cabo San Lucas:

 

Due to our unusual departure day (a Thursday) and our 12-day itinerary, Cabo San Lucas was not only our final port but also the only one visited by another cruise ship at about the same time. A Carnival ship arrived about an hour after we set anchor.

 

We scheduled a three hour tour for the day, but our boat looked nothing like the S.S. Minnow.;) After tendering to shore, we were led a short way to the Cabo Adventures building, where our "America's Cup Challenge" sailing tour began. After the welcome and preliminary instructions, we set out for our yacht-for-the-day, the New Zealand defender of the America's Cup Challenge in 2003, where we were given our final instructions.

 

As our competitors who were to sail an Australian entry in a previous America's Cup race were still aboard the Carnival ship, we ended up with about an hour of care-free sailing more than usual, giving us plenty of time to admire landmarks such as Lover's Arch and beaches accessible only by boat. Once the other team finally arrived, the race started. Our yacht held the advantage throughout and crossed the finish line well before the other vessel. Yay, team! :D Our captain and crew leader were top-notch. While this was our most expensive tour, the odds of either of us ever again having the chance to set sail in an America's Cup competitor are slim-to-none, and we enjoyed every minute of it.

 

After a victory celebration back at headquarters, we walked around the port area and looked into some shops before catching one of the last tenders back to the ship.

 

(Final comments later)

[Ine]

Thanks again for thie great report, it must taken you quite some time to write it.

I am glad you liked your trips in Mexico, of course especially in Puerto vallarta since we are here during winter...

The Sea of Cortez sailing is one of the nicest itinaries, a mix of bigger and smaller Mexican places. We did it 2 years ago and loved it.

I was so sorry to see that HAL will not offer this again coming winter, hopefully they will do it again in the near future.

Also glad that you made excursions as on the Mexico Riviera board some people state to stay on the ship because they think all of Mexico is dangerous.

 

Of course I pointed out that those killings take place among drugsdealers and is not against tourists. Referring at the same time to killings that took place in Canada and the USA, also not against tourists, but nobody is afraid to go to those places. ...Much to my surprise my postings (no bad words in it) and also from another positive poster about this are deleted, without any explanation or without any possibility to ask why. Very disappointing...

[ironin]

Just a few things I forgot to mention earlier, or that others may find helpful:

 

ATM Machines:

 

Whenever possible, use a bank ATM. Unless traveling in a country with significant black market foreign exchange activity, Visa/Mastercard exchange rates will almost always be the best. There were independent U.S. Dollar ATM machines at almost every port we visited. While they were very convenient, they were far from cheap to use. Although they do dispense U.S. Dollars, the transaction is actually conducted in Mexican Pesos using a a conversion rate about 10% higher than the going bank rate. Add in the on-site ATM usage fees plus any usage and conversion fees for converting the transaction back to U.S. $ by one's own bank or card issuer, and those convenient U.S. dollars cost upwards of 15% more than stopping at a bank.

 

Insect Repellent:

 

As recommended, we brought some along for use on the zip-lining tour. It didn't occur to us to bring it on the "Zorro & Native Cultures" tour, however. Anyone who didn't who also sat in the shade under the trees while watching the native dance in the Indian village sure wished they'd had. We lucked out by accident, as we chose to stand in the sun for a better view and had few bugs pestering us. After seeing the results for some who did, we were glad we elected not to wear shorts that day and decided not to wear them while zip-lining either.

 

Cruise Critic Meet & Greet:

 

As Iceman93 had already graciously invited everyone to a wine tasting party in his penthouse suite on our second sea day, Shannon (furluvcats) organized the Cruise Critic members' "Meet & Greet" for the next sea day, the 8th. There weren't any formal invitations or RSVP's required. The wine tasting party probably served the purpose of a "meet and greet" for most people, as about 70 people attended the wine tasting and about 15 made the official party. We planned to go but got so involved with something else that afternoon that we forgot about it until it was too late. Those who did attend the latter did tell us it was great fun, especially as drinks were "on the house." Many thanks to Shannon for agreeing to be the organizer.

 

Luggage:

 

Having read so much about the onerous luggage restrictions imposed by airlines these days, I decided to keep track of what I put inside mine and how much it ended up weighing. My bag itself, an older version of the Eagle Creek Tarmac 28, weighed 11 pounds.

 

Contents of bag: 1 tux, 1 suit, 6 short-sleeve shirts, 2 long-sleeve shirts, 3 dress shirts, 2 t-shirts, 1 sweater, 1 sweatshirt, 2 pairs of jeans, 1 pair of Dockers, 2 pairs of shorts, 1 swimsuit, 1 pair of dress shoes, 1 pair of tennis shoes, 6-8 pairs of socks, 8 pairs of underwear, 3 ties, cumberbund, toiletries and other miscellaneous items.

 

Weight: A tad shy of 40 pounds! Imagine that! And I over-packed this time, just because I had a bigger bag. The bag I normally use, Costco's 22" model, can handle either a tux or a suit and only one pair of shoes.

[ironin]

LGBT Passengers:

 

While writing this overly-long review, a thread debating whether or not HAL crew members and passengers are "gay friendly" was brought to my attention. Like so many "debates," it seems to me this one revolves around a few singular incidents and hearsay extrapolated by the easily outraged into rampant undeserved stereotyping of the kind that those engaging in it are among the first to decry when others do the same.

 

With that in mind, our own experience while aboard the Amsterdam was 100% positive, as we expected. While we aren't ones to worry about such things as "What will the neighbors say?," we aren't oblivious to the odd remark, although neither of our egos is sufficiently fragile to be either temporarily or permanently damaged by one. The closest thing to an "odd remark" we heard during the cruise was odd only because, given our respective ages, we rarely get compliments on our looks. Two very sweet people actually came up to us and said, "You are such a cute couple!" *LOL*

 

Regularly scheduled LGBT get-togethers were announced in the official daily program delivered to all cabins. Although we planned to attend at least one, we invariably had something else already scheduled, or just plain forgot about it. As things turned out, an organized meeting wasn't needed for us to meet many of the fine gay men and women who also happened to be aboard ship. As far as we know, those we met were having a marvelous as time as well.

[ironin]

Disembarkation:

 

Oops! I Completely forgot about disembarkation when composing the Odds & Ends post, probably because it was so easy and everything went as planned. As one of us had a car still sitting in the Hilton Airport parking lot, we didn't sign up for connections through HAL. Luggage Direct wasn't an option, as the other was flying home via Southwest, which doesn't participate in that program at this port.

 

We selected the first of three disembarkation time periods offered for those with independent arrangements. Our bags weren't big or bulky, but we didn't feel like lugging them off-ship, so we left them out as directed the night before.

 

After a nice breakfast on the upper level of the dining room, we returned to our cabin just in time to hear our color & number being called, walked down to the gangway, and were off the ship in less than 5 minutes. After easily finding our bags inside the port building, we handed our customs declarations cards to the officer on our way out the door. With plenty of taxis available, we were on our way away from the port about 15 minutes after our number was first called.