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Going to Alaska next month. Camera questions


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Going to Alaska next month spending 3 days in Seward, 1 in Talkeetna and 3 in Denali. Going on a Kenai Fjords day cruise and taking the bus into Denali 3 days. I'm probably what you'd call a novice at photography and would like to get some good wildlife shots.

 

I have a Canon T1i with the 2 kit lenses (18-55 and 55-250). I'd like to bring a lens that would add more length.

 

1. Looked into renting the Canon 100-400mm for about $160 or National Camera Exchange has the Tamron SP 70-300mm on sale for $400 now. I'll be traveling a bit more in the future so buying may make more sense. Is the Tamron a good deal? Will I regret not having the extra length in Alaska if I buy the Tamron instead of renting the Canon?

 

2. Like I said, I'm a novice and usually just use the auto setting. I dont know enough about the manual settings yet, however my pictures seem to lack some crispness to them. Is there any suggestions on what I can do to take better shots for the Alaska trip? Considering it will more than likely be gloomy and cloudy out.

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I would lean towards the 100-400L if it were me. The push pull design is a bit different to get used to, but it is a nice lens. I think the quality of the Canon L series lens will really help. Also, the difference between 250mm of what you have and Tamron 300mm is really not that big IMO. If you are looking at spending in around $400 to buy a lens I'd look at the Canon 70-300mm IS lens, you can buy them directly on Canon USA refurb pretty cheap. I have had it and it is a great lens! At times you will find that 400mm still not big enough! Also, I wouldn't necessarily count on it being gloomy, more often than not on our 3 trips to Alaska it was beautiful. Maybe we were just lucky! But, from what I have heard they have had a pretty good season so far.

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The Tamron if it is the new 70-300 is a good deal and a good lense. The Canon "L" carries all the snob of the "L" Only you can decide what $, performance, weight you want to go with. 50mm on the long side isn't much as 5mm on the wide side. IMHO you want a super wide as well as something to the 300mm side too. Unless you must have the iconic close up wildlife picture you might find more usage of the getting a wide angle than extending your reach beyond 250mm

 

Unless one is blowing up to 10x20 size pictures the differences will be small IMHO between the two lens you are taking for the conditions you are likely to face.

 

Nothing is for free, with higher end lens you have cost, weight and bulk for IQ. The only time I go big / heavy is more for the focus speed and light gathering than IQ. The reality is the IQ of most lens and sensor combinations exceed the need of how 99% of us view and share pictures.

 

As to renting, a good efficient way to get shooting flexbility for a focal length you may rarely use. Just remember that its tempting to get great IQ but as I said it always come with weight and bulk. My favorite lens is one I shoot only spottingly for that reason, 200F2.

 

Going to Alaska next month spending 3 days in Seward, 1 in Talkeetna and 3 in Denali. Going on a Kenai Fjords day cruise and taking the bus into Denali 3 days. I'm probably what you'd call a novice at photography and would like to get some good wildlife shots.

 

I have a Canon T1i with the 2 kit lenses (18-55 and 55-250). I'd like to bring a lens that would add more length.

 

1. Looked into renting the Canon 100-400mm for about $160 or National Camera Exchange has the Tamron SP 70-300mm on sale for $400 now. I'll be traveling a bit more in the future so buying may make more sense. Is the Tamron a good deal? Will I regret not having the extra length in Alaska if I buy the Tamron instead of renting the Canon?

 

2. Like I said, I'm a novice and usually just use the auto setting. I dont know enough about the manual settings yet, however my pictures seem to lack some crispness to them. Is there any suggestions on what I can do to take better shots for the Alaska trip? Considering it will more than likely be gloomy and cloudy out.

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I don't think a polarizer will help with sharpness, but it will help with bringing out the 'blues' in the sky and 'greens' in the trees etc. It will help cut glare also.

 

Now, the size of the filter is not determined by the camera, but by the lens. You will have to decide which lens you are going with and then get the correct size filter ( example for the 100-400mm lens I believe it is 77mm filter). If you are going to rent a lens it may not be worth while to buy a CPL filter. I would however get one for your kit lens and the 250mm, they should be 55mm or something like that (it'll be on the front of the lens).

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Will a polarizing filter help bring out some of the crispness of my photos?

 

I doubt if the polarizing filter will help other than reflections and the bring out color and detail in the sky.

 

However, if you are going to be in Alaska with the glaciers, snow etc., you might consider getting a neutral density filter (preferably 4x) if you want to bring out the blue in the ice.

Also it will give you much more detail in the snow/ice type pictures otherwise the white will wash the detain out.

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If you do end up renting the 100-400L make sure you spend some time practicing with it, and you may do better switching your camera over to one of the "less automatic" settings. Holding the camera steady becomes more important at the focal length increases. Using a tripod/monopod and getting accustomed to bracing against something solid when taking shots at 400mm will really help. When using the longer focal lengths getting a faster shutter speed can be a big help in getting a clear picture. Sometimes this requires you manually setting the ISO higher or opening up the aperture (lower number).

 

I have the 100-400 and love it. It is my "go to" travel telephoto lens but if you are accustomed to kit lenses it's size and weight may be a shock to you. It requires a minor commitment to allocate the luggage space and weight.

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The difference between a 250mm and 300mm lens is not very significant, and even between 250 and 400mm it's not a huge difference.

 

Lens focal lengths a logarithmic relationship, and anything less than 2x is not a significant difference.

 

Here is an experiment you can try that will illustrate my point. Take your 55-250mm lens and take a photo of the same subject from the same point (use a tripod) at 55mm, 100mm, 200mm, and 250mm.

 

Although to be a true representation, the first photo should be 50mm, but 55mm is close enough.

 

So compare the 55mm, 100mm, and 200mm photos. Notice that there is a noticeable difference between the three photos - distance wise. And also notice that the difference between 55mm and 100mm and 100mm and 200mm are roughly equal.

 

This is because from 50mm to 100mm its a 2x change, and from 100mm to 200mm, its also a 2x change (even though in numbers, 50mm to 100mm is 50, and 100mm to 200mm is 100).

 

Following that example, the next 2x distance from the 200mm point would be 400mm. In other words, when to have the same degree of change when going from 100mm to 200mm, it would require a 200mm to 400mm lens.

 

This can be confirmed by now looking at the 250mm photo to the 200mm photo - not much difference is there?

 

This was Chip Master's point in that a 10-20mm lens will offer the same amount of change as a 200-400mm lens, because they both have a 2x relationship.

 

Remember that old story about asking your dad for an allowance, starting out with a penny on day one, two pennies on day two, and so on for 30 days?

 

That is a logarithmic, or 2x relationship, not unlike lenses. As you increase the focal length, it takes an increasingly larger lens to get the same effect.

 

So my long-winded point is that if you already have a 250mm lens, a 300mm lens is not going to get you much. Even going from a 250mm to a 400mm lens is still under a 2x relationship, but it will at least be noticeable.

 

If it were me, If I were going to upsize, I would not spend any money for anything less than a 2x improvement, or a 500mm lens - which of course is going to be pretty expensive. So at that point, rental might be the best choice.

 

Just my thoughts.

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I am taking my first cruise to Alaska in August, and I have been examining my equipment as well. I shoot with a Canon 50D and have a 18-135mm IS, 70-300mm IS, and the 50mm 1.4 prime.

 

I've read many posts that recommend the 100-400m L for Alaska and I had been seriously considering it until this weekend. That lens is a heavy "son of a gun". A friend of mine wants to loan me his for my trip, so I have been "lens sitting" it this weekend. It gives me beautiful images on a tripod, but I cant handhold that thing to save my life. I just can't see myself using it successfully on the whale watching excursion, as much as I might practice. I would like to take it along on our drive to Emerald Lake just in case we see some wildlife in the distance, but I can't justify the weight for the bit of extra reach it would give me. I strongly recommend visiting your local camera store and trying it out before you rent it. YMMV

 

I have done some testing of my 70-300mm IS, and the tests confirmed my thoughts. It is a good lens for the price and I feel very comfortable with it. So, long story short, I will not be borrowing the 100-400 L. I will, however, be renting a fast wide angle L zoom because my 18-135mm IS is less than adequate. (I believe your 18-55mm performs better).

 

Have fun on your cruise. Be sure to write a review and dont forget to include pictures!

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I sometimes carry around a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 - which is a pretty heavy lens. While you don't care about that lens, it weighs in at almost 50oz - pretty heavy to use handheld all day.

 

What I found really helps is using a Black Rapid style shoulder sling camera strap. Anyone using heavy lenses should have one of these (either the Black Rapid or one of the knock-off brands).

 

The advantage is you can hook the strap up to the lens tripod mount, then carry the lens/camera around using your shoulder rather than your neck. That is if you can even carry it around on your neck. I see some people just carry the lens in their hands without using a neck strap.

 

So if you can cut down on the neck strain and other effort to carry the lens, that means you only need to heft the lens for the few seconds of each shot - it will be a lot less physically challenging.

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.....What I found really helps is using a Black Rapid style shoulder sling camera strap. Anyone using heavy lenses should have one of these (either the Black Rapid or one of the knock-off brands).

 

The advantage is you can hook the strap up to the lens tripod mount, then carry the lens/camera around using your shoulder rather than your neck. That is if you can even carry it around on your neck. I see some people just carry the lens in their hands without using a neck strap.

 

So if you can cut down on the neck strain and other effort to carry the lens, that means you only need to heft the lens for the few seconds of each shot - it will be a lot less physically challenging.

 

Thanks for sharing this tip!

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If you don't want to spend the $50~$70 for a Black Rapid brand strap, eBay has Quick Rapid brand straps from several vendors for under $20. Search on Quick Rapid Camera Strap.

 

To keep from infringing on any patents, the Quick straps have a slightly different camera mounting plate, but it's as good or perhaps better than the Black Rapid straps.

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If you are whale watching, your 55 to 250 should give you reasonably good results if you are in a boat with a good captain that anticipates the course the whales are on and intercepts it well. Anything over 400 will be unwieldy and you are more likely to miss the best shots!

 

Wild life on shore from your ship, 400 or higher would probably be better. If you are renting a lens, make sure you are getting an image stabilized lens for your camera as it will make it easier to eliminate your camera shake at the longer focal lengths.

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