Review of Land Cruise to NOLA

[Kathyh1313]

This is a review of our 4 day land-cruise to New Orleans from May 11 to May 17. WE spent 4 days in NO and 2 days in Lafayette out in Cajun Country visiting our daughter. I hope you are able to gain some help from our experiences. This is my 4th time to NOLA and DH’s 1st.

 

We arrived at the airport at 10:30AM and took a cab to our hotel in the FQ for $29. It used to be $28 but there is now a $1 fuel surcharge which IMHO is justified given the price of gasoline. Our room was not yet ready at this early hour so they bellman held our luggage so we could get out and explore. We stayed at the St. Louis on Rue Bienville a wonderful hotel in a great location on a block between Royal and Bourbon. At $75 a night it was quite a bargain! We had a very large room overlooking the central courtyard, which was lovely. 2 Queen beds, a comfortable club chair, desk with chair, large armoire with 27” TV. The bathroom area was very large. Shuttered doors to an area which had a large closet on the right and a large marble topped sink/vanity with plenty of storage, drawers and cabinets. The main bath was to the left with a door. Toilet, bidet and bath/shower combo. Only complaint was the water pressure in the shower was very weak, so it took a while to rinse!

 

Out into the FQ to explore. We walked down the river past Jackson Square to overlook the Mississippi River on one side and Jackson Square on the other. Café du Monde is right there. This is a very great location to get a view of the FQ and some wonderful pictures. We then went walking the quarter, stopping at Pat O’s for a Hurricane, very potent! I only drank half, DH finished mine! Then to the Gumbo Shop for lunch. This is hands down the best gumbo anywhere on the planet! We have eaten quite a bit of gumbo as DD attends the University of Louisiana, Lafayette and we have traveled in that area at least yearly. The Gumbo Shop used a lighter roux than most, so the soup is more delicately flavored. Plus they use a lot of okra which both DH and I love. Some gumbo’s are very dark with almost a burnt, muddy water taste, but not at the Gumbo Shop. Simply scrumptious! I got a free Cosmo using a coupon from the Good Times Guide.

 

Back to the hotel to rest for a bit and take a much needed shower. Then out for a pre-dinner cocktail. We went to the Bombay Club on Conti St. They have a martini bar, it was a bit of a wait for the bartender but the wait was worth it. The martinis were well made. Then a quick cab ride to Emeril’s on the corner of Julia and Tchopitoulous St. This was hands down the best meal we have eaten in our lives! Everything was perfect. Service is of a team philosophy and there is such situational awareness, not a thing is missed. The best Cosmo of the trip! I had Barbequed Shrimp for an app, yum, and Fried Quail on a bed of Corn and Chorizo, delicious. DH had Gumbo, very good and a signature Redfish entrée which he loved. WE shared a very reasonably priced bottle of wine. Split Peanut Butter Chocolate Pie with Homemade Marshmallow for dessert, yummy. Plus a pot of French Press coffee which was the best cup of coffee I have had in my life! Dinner was very reasonable priced considering the superior quality and excellent service.

 

 

 

The next morning we went to “Breakfast at Brennen’s”. I have never done this before and have always longed to experience this New Orleans tradition. Unfortunately, we were disappointed. We started off with “eye openers” of a Brandy Milk Punch for me and a Spicy Bloody Mary for DH. Well made cocktails, a bit pricey. We live in Boston which is an expensive city, so when I say pricey, I think I am a fair judge. DH had Turtle soup to start which was delicious. He had a Cajun Omelet with Andouille, very taste. But it came naked on the plate, not home fries or grits or even a piece of toast! Granted there was a small loaf of French Bread on the table, but at $19, overpriced. I had always wanted to try Grillades and Grits. So I did. This is a veal dish with a light tomato based gravy served with grits. It was delicious. However, for $37, the portion of meat was small. Even at half that price this would have been an overpriced dish. We had to share a Banana’s Foster for dessert. Banana’s Foster was invented at Brennen’s. It was delicious. The ice cream was super frozen, which is good and bad. Good, it would not quickly melt from the hot bananas, bad; it was so frozen it was hard to get a spoon of ice cream to have with the bananas. The waiter was just ok, nothing special. Glad I did this once, but would not go back again.

 

We spent the day walking the FQ and then took an afternoon (2:30PM) cruise on the paddlewheel Steamboat Natchez. This was a very nice sightseeing tour along the Mississippi. On the cruise back, they had a buffet lunch for $9. Ok, nothing special. And a jazz combo playing, which was fun. This was a very nice way to spend the afternoon. After the cruise, we went to Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville. Watch out! The drinks are super strong, 2 Jimmy’s Perfect Margaritas and I was blotto! LOL We enjoyed some apps, conch fritters and a spicy crawfish dip with taco chips. The walk back to the St Louis was tough for me given my inebriated state! We had to sit and soak up the atmosphere at Jackson Square!

 

That night we dined at the Louis XVI in our hotel. Again a coupon from the Good Times guide gave us one free entrée, this saved us $32! Dinner was very elegant and delicious. I had a mixed seafood in puff pastry app and Rack of Lamb as entrée, both were very good. DH had Escargot and Filet Mignon au Poirve cooked table side. Crepe Suzette again cooked tableside was excellent. A great bottle of wine and another wonderful evening.

 

Next morning we checked out and drove to Lafayette to visit our daughter. We rented a car and drove across Lake Ponchatrain. We crossed the longest bridge across water in the world, 24 miles, fun.

 

We returned to NOLA on Sunday evening and this time stayed at the Maison Dupuy on Toulouse at the back of the FQ between Burgundy and Rampart. Very quiet area which required a bit more walking, but not a problem. Again a very nice hotel. Room was a large king bedded room overlooking the courtyard. Table with 2 chairs and an small backless settee. Bathroom was tiny with sink, toilet and bath/shower in one very small

 

room. I prefer the sink in a separate room, makes it easier for us both to get ready at the same time. But the water pressure in the shower was great! This hotel was $130 per night. DH had wanted a hotel with more amenities such as pool and work out room, which the Maison Dupuy had, St Louis did not. However, given all there is to do in NO, we never used these. I would stay at either hotel again but I preferred the St Louis.

 

For dinner that night we had made reservations at Emeril’s Delmonico in the Garden District on St Charles. I had been before and really had not enjoyed at much as his flagship restaurant, but DH had wanted to try it. I have to say I was right, in comparing these 2 restaurants, Emeril’s flagship wins hands down. The service was stuffy and lacking. We ordered cocktails and asked to look at the wine list. This list is very imposing and expensive. There was not a single reasonable priced bottle of wine! If you wanted to pay upwards of $500 to over $2000 a bottle it was great, but nothing good in the $50 range. This is poor. When we ordered DH decided to skip an app as he felt we were overeating! This is a given in New Orleans! Hah! I had a roasted beet salad with goat cheese which was delicious. We had not been offered bread, so Dh called the waitress over to ask for some and she said, Oh, you want some MORE. And walked away. I was not at all happy with her tone and attitude. NO, we wanted our first, not SOME MORE. We waited quite a bit of time before the assistant waiter brought bread. For entrees I had hickory roasted duck with cheesy grits and collard greens, very delicious. DH had Sockeye Salmon on mashed potato with crispy arugala. His portion was small and just good, nothing special. He finished my duck, which he said was much better than the salmon. We split a chocolate pecan pie for dessert which was amazing! No French press coffee here, the regular coffee was good, not great. Overall, the dining experience here was not nearly at good as at Emeril’s flagship. The staff were not attentive at all, there were delays and waits and attitude. We witnessed the man at the ext table drop his napkin from his lap and the napkin sat on the floor in plain sight as several waiters and assistants walked right by, time and time again. Not the very attentive, situationally aware team approach we experienced at Emeril’s. Delmonico’s disappointed me the first time as well as this time, I will never return.

 

We then walked the FQ along Bourbon St. Fun, but a bit noisy for us 40 something’s. We went to the Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone. Fun and then over to the Bombay Club for a dessert Martini. Great! We had just missed the Food Network filming a

segment for a new show called Rachel’s Tasty Adventures with Rachel Ray. We were disappointed in the DH and I enjoy her shows. Oh well, such is life!

 

Back to the hotel for a good nights sleep.

 

On Monday we drove out to visit the San Francisco Plantation. I enjoyed very much, DH was less enchanted. Then we returned the rental car. It is not necessary to have a car when staying in the FQ and parking in expensive. We went to the Bourbon House for lunch. Another of the Brennen family restaurants. We enjoyed this meal tremendously. Another spicy Bloody Mary for DH and a Frozen Bourbon Milk Punch for me, yummy. Red Snapper Pecan for DH and a Catfish Po’boy for me. Again, delicious.

 

We then rode the St Charles Streetcar through the Garden District all the way to the end along Carrollton. Past Loyola and Tulane, past Audubon Park. And all the way back, we then transferred to the Canal St line and down to the World Trade Center for a view from the top. Wonderful. We then hopped on the Riverside streetcar for a ride down to the French Market for souvenir T-shirts. Then to Fiorella’s for the world famous fried chicken, super yummy. Then back to the Maison Dupuy for a nap! We had reservations at the hotel’s restaurant, Dominique’s but decided to cancel. Instead we went to K Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen and had a fabulous meal! Corn Crab Bisque for me and Gumbo for DH. We then split the Filet Mignon with Debris Gravy, OMG; this was the best gravy I had ever eaten! Tasted like the best pot roast in the world cooked down into liquid form. MMMMMMM, came with side of mashed potatoes had to have a pound of butter and carrots and green beans lightly sautéed. The waitress was delightful. She had the kitchen plate our shared entrée on 2 plates and even had the chef prepare each of the 2 petit filets to our individual specifications. For dessert we shared the signature Sweet Potato Pecan Pie, to DIE for. Home to bed.

 

Room service for breakfast, pack and back to the airport for our flight home.

 

New Orleans, we will return.

 

Sorry this is so long, but I hope you can find some help for your New Orleans trips.

 

Happy cruising, Kathy

[mrmrscheese]

Kathy - Thanks for the great review. DH & I only live 6 hours away and we go on an annual trip each fall to NO, however this year were cruising out of NO for 25th wedding anniv! So we are somewhat bypassing the annual trip with just one night the day we return. We were going to try the Gumbo Shop this trip, and of course I can't not go to Court of Two Sisters it remains one of my favorites. We always stay at the Alexia right at the corner where Burbon st / FQ begins.

[Cotton]

Kathy, what a wonderful 'review' of my hometown! Thank you.:) I agree that Emeril's is amazing, the service cannot be beat, and also that Delmonico is just so-so. I enjoy having lunch at Emeril's other more casual restaurant, NOLA, but my very favorite of all time for lunch is Gumbo Shop. I have never been disappointed with food nor service. Brennan's is probably one of my least favorite restaurants. Have you had dinner at Commander's Palace? Best of the best of the best!... (the only five-star restaurant in N.O.)

 

Seeing 'my' city through your eyes made me feel SO good! Y'all did SO many interesting side trips, which I also love doing. I hope you and your DH will come back often. She's truly...."like this place, no other".:D

[Kathyh1313]

New Orleans is a fabulous city. I think what we enjoyed the most was just strolling through the Quarter, holding hands and soaking up the atmosphere and lovely architecture. Or maybe it was riding the streetcar through the Garden District with our arms around each other. Oh wait, then there is all that delicious food! New Orleans is such a sensual city, we will be back.

 

I have had lunch and brunch at Commanders Palace, but never dinner. That is on our must do list for next time. I have also had dinner at NOLAs. We had thought about going there for lunch, but when we walked by the Bourbon House and they had Red Snapper as a special, DH wanted in!

 

Mrs Cheese, I also have enjoyed the Court of Two Sisters on several occasions. Alas there are only so many hours in a day and so many meals to be eaten. Perhaps another time.

 

I also forgot to mention that the first day we went walking we stopped at Cafe Gumbolaya in the French Market across from the French Market Cafe, where there was live music. I had a Frozen Pink Ya Ya Lemonade that had Strawberry Vodka, this was so refreshing after walking in the heat. We had a few apps as well, fried crawfish which were light with not a drop of grease and Fried Green Tomotoes with Shrimp Remoulade. Both were excellent.

 

An interesting side trip we took when we were in Lafayette was a drive to Avery Island. This is about 30 min or so south of Lafayette. We visited the Tabasco Factory and Jungle Gardens, which were beautiful. On the drive back to Lafayette we stopped on Rt 90 West in New Iberia for a meal at RW Boiling Point. If you ever get down to New Iberia, please treat yourself and have a meal at the Boiling Point. It is a small, white, non descript building, looks like nothing at all, but OMG the seafood! We had fresh boiled crawfish, which were so sweet and succulent, also fresh boiled shrimp. Now boiled shrimb may sound kind of bland, but let me tell you, these were FRESH Shrimp from Louisiana, boiled with the heads and shells intact in Zatarains Crab Boil, YUMMY! Served with corn and boiled potatoes, kind of like our New England Lobster boils.

 

DD, hopefully, will graduate in December. So we may be back then. I certainly hope so for all of our sakes!

 

 

Best to all, Kathy

[Cotton]

Thx for the additional comments, Kathy. I was born and raised in the Garden District. One of my DD's lives in, and works in, the Quarter. She has a lovely apt. with a balcony full of plants hanging over. (Possibly y'all passed by it), and I visit there at least a couple of times a month.

 

I've taken many visitors to Avery Island. Quite a place, with so many great spots between there and N.O. I love to cook, and had a catering business, plus worked as F&B director for hotels in N.O. for many years. Yes, I love my cajun heritage, and as you can see, I didn't move TOO far away!:D

 

Congrats to your DD on her upcoming graduation.

[jgmpuma]

Cotton: Just out of curiousity, how did you end up in Gulfport?

[Cotton]

:D Married a guy from Bay St. Louis, and he wouldn't leave the coast! At least, I got him to move a bit further east.:D

[jgmpuma]

That's what happened to me too, about 33 years ago. Met a New Orleans girl on a blind date.

[susancruzs]

Thanks for that wonderful review! Next May I'm going to be there 3 days prior to being on the American Queen and the restaurant tips are great. I've been to NO before but with a friend. Deciding where to dine when I travel by myself is always hit or miss, easier for me if I already have some places picked out!

 

I haven't been back for awhile, and I'm anxious to ride the streetcar again, last time my friend was too hot and didn't want to do the whole trip. The riverfront stuff is new to me, too so I'm looking forward to a fun time!

 

Susie

[Cruisin Rick]

Great review Kathy. We did a land vacation to NOLA last year. We stayed at Homewood Suits three blocks from the French Quarters. There is much to do there. I have some pictures of some of the sites we visited including Oak Alley Plantation, LA Swamp Tour, The Natchez Riverboat and other pictures around the city if anybody is interested.

[bcurran2003]

kathy great tips and review. we were there in april with the kids and they just have a blast walking around new orleans. took them to smith and wollanskey for their first white table cloth steak house and they had a seafood pyramid for an appetizer special. kids tried oysters, little necks crab, crawdads, smoked salmon it was great seeing them try this. looking forward to when i can get them to eat some food with sauces other than marinara LOL

 

also went to mulates which everyone talks about i thought food just average so it is a place you want to go to for the atmosphere not the food

[Kathyh1313]

Glad you have enjoyed and gotten some tips from my review. We certainly had a fabulous time.

 

I have been to the original Mulate's in Breaux Bridge. Loved that one, food was very good, music is outstanding (I LOVE cajun music!) and atmosphere fun! Have never been to the one on New Orleans. If you ever are in Lafayette, LA, one of the best restaurants is a place called Prejean's. Outrageously good food and cajun music nightly. It's just off Rt 10, exit 103 Rt 49. I have to go there every time I visit Lafayette.

 

I can't wait to return.

 

Happy cruising, Kathy

[Sassy Chassis]

Great review! I'm considering driving down to NOLA for a long weekend and am always open to recommendations :)