Wine Tasting on Rhone - Viking Portraits of S France

[pontac]

As a winelover and someone who has visited many wineries on four continents I thought I’d make a post specifically about wineries on the Viking Portraits of Southern France cruise on the Rhone, from Chalon sur Saone to Avignon

I took this cruise in July 2015.

 

 

This is not a cruise dedicated to wine, unlike to Bordeaux cruise, but we travelled through great winelands and we had two included wine tasting and one optional.

 

 

As tastes differ, I will not give tasting notes.

 

 

1) Beaune wine tasting, included.

Beaune is the heart of the Burgundy wine business. The included tour had a short walk through the walled city, a visit to a cellar for a tutored tasting and a guided visit to the famous impressive Hospice de Beaune, a 15th Century mediaeval hospital.

 

 

The tasting took place in the brick vaulted atmospheric cellar of a wine merchant ‘Le Cellier de la Cabiote’. The tasting was well presented, aimed to novices but well able to answer more detailed questions. The majority of people were wine novices and were understandably bemused by the intricacies of the Burgundy appellation laws, quality classifications and that the law required red wines were Pinot Noir and the whites Chardonnay.

 

 

The white wines were

Domaine Fichet

Mâcon-Igé 2012

Château London

12 Euro

 

Domaine Larue

En Montceau

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2012

24 Euro

 

The red was

 

Domaine Michel Juillot

Clos Tonnerre

Mercurey 1er Cru 2010

26 Euro

 

I thought the tasting was a good introduction with one unwooded and one wooded white and an informative enthusiastic and knowledgeable presenter in an atmospheric setting.

 

 

We finished with the local liqueur

Maison Briottet

Creme de Cassis

(20%abv) 15 Euro for 500ml

 

 

Pieces of tasty crusty bread and ‘Gougere et Pain’ (choux pastry stuffed with cheese) accompanied the tasting.

Wines could be bought there and/or shipped to US.

 

 

Note: In 2016 this cruise changes to visiting Beaujolais instead of Beaune and will have a Beaujolais tasting.

 

 

2) Included wine tasting in Tain L’Hermitage.

 

 

I have read two derogatory comments about this tasting in CruiseCritic and I don’t understand why, for IMO this was the best by far. It was to Domaine du Murinais, the only visit that took place where the wine was made, among the vines, this informal winery is a small family owned operation. Luc Tardy, seventh generation winemaker/owner greeted us and was there to answer questions and his wife Catherine poured the wines after we’d toured his winery in the 1774 farmhouse where they live.

 

 

The wines were

Crozes Hermitage

Cuvée Marine 2014

17 Euros

A white blend of 50% Marsanne and Roussane

 

 

Crozes Hermitage

Les Amandiers 2013

13 Euros

100% Syrah (aka Shiraz), as was

 

 

 

Crozes Hermitage

Villes Vignes 2013

17 Euros

From 75+ year old Syrah vines, all wines wild yeast naturally fermented.

I saw the second wine in a shop in Avignon priced at 38 Euros!!!

 

3) The optional trip ‘Chateauneuf du Pape Tour & Tasting' (49 Euro) went to ‘Pavillon des vins Skalli’ a visitor centre owned by major wine company Skalli on the outskirts of Chateauneuf du Pape. Two Viking coachloads attended some seated at tables, overflow on benches behind. Large barrels lined walls, but there was no indication that this is a working winery.

 

 

 

We were given a fast and well-worn presentation with three wines poured. Chunks of cheese with crackers were passed around.

 

 

White wine was

Chateauneuf du Pape 2008

25 Euros

 

Blend of Grenache blanc, Clairette, Roussane, Boubelenc

Chateauneuf du Pape

Special Edition NV

28 Euros

 

 

Blend of 5 varieties, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Terret Noir. Blend of three vintages 2009/10/11

 

 

Chateauneuf du Pape

Maison Bouachon

Reserve Dedication 2010

55 Euros

Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre.

 

Then plenty of time in huge shop with wines and tourist gifts. Wines can be shipped to US.

 

I felt this was a cynical conveyor belt money extraction routine after

Domaine du Murinais.

 

 

We then had a drive through vineyards with a photo-stop and then stopped in the centre of Chateauneuf du Pape where we had about 15 minutes free time. Here there are many little wine shops, many owned by local wineries and selling just their wines and all offering free tastings.

 

I would have preferred to have spent time in these places. Their wines were very much better quality and much better priced than the overpriced stuff at the tourist tasting place IMO.

 

 

 

According to the Pavillon des vins Skalli website, individuals can book a tasting of three wines for between 3.5 and 8 Euros per person, and so I thought a 49 Euro charge for this tasting and short coach trip was not good value. (60 people paying 49 Euros means that Viking took almost 3,000 Euros from this one ship. With four ships travelling this route this trip must be very profitable, and with the amount spent by Viking guests in the tasting venue I expect Skalli charge them a most advantageous price, if they charge Viking a cent.

 

A note about the wine on the boat.

 

I thought the standard house wine, ‘Elegante’ brand Merlot and Chardonnay were the poorest wines of the five Viking tours I’ve been on. I didn’t like the Merlot and so sourced my own wines when these were shown on the menus. They are appellation Vin de France, which has replaced Vin de Table. The waiters tell you they are from Bordeaux, but that’s where they were bottled by the anonymous LPT at 33560 who I can’t find on the web. The wines can come from anywhere and be a blend of any French wines. Vin de France wines are not necessarily bad, but they are not IMO to the standard of other Viking wines. However, most passengers were perfectly happy with them – from the number of bottles were opened.

[Host Jazzbeau]

Thank you for this detailed review. Your expertise and interest give it a depth I haven't seen before in any river cruise reviews. With your background, you would be an ideal candidate for one of the wine-themed river cruises.

[pinotlover]

I agree that the tasting in Beaune was a very novice experience. It was like going to Napa and being taken to Sutter Home for a tasting!

 

Tain - With Chaputier and Paul Jaboulet right in the mid section of town, that make outstanding wines from the region, I was extremely disappointed with the drive out to the Chateau to drink unmemorable wines. Again a second class effort by Viking.

 

CdP - they would be better off just dropping the passengers off in CdP and allowing them to roam and sip on their own. With the new Chateau Beaucastel tasting room open in midtown, along with other delights, the stop Viking makes looks stupid, except as a money grab.

 

The whites and reds served aboard this cruise was phlonk. The Rose was fairly good. Yes, some people enjoy phlonk, and am glad they were happy. By the second night of our cruise most all tables had between 1-5 cruiser supplied bottles brought in to enjoy with each meals. Viking was probably happy in that it cost them nothing, so the "no corkage fee" policy only makes them money.

 

Any one up for a bet Viking doesn't go to any of the seven classified villages of Beaujolais but the visitors end up at a phlonky local serving the same?

[pontac]

I agree with you about Chateauneuf du Pape, but we'll have to agree to disagree about Tain.

 

Chapoutier and Jaboulet are both huge producers whose wines are distributed and available widely. I doubt on an included tour we'd get to taste their most prestigeous wines.

 

I preferred to visit and meet this small artisan grower/maker.

[pontac]

With your background, you would be an ideal candidate for one of the wine-themed river cruises.

 

I was wondering that, with 5 rivers under my belt (all in wine producing regions, you'll note ;) where to go next.

 

But I would return to the Rhone if there was a specific wine related cruise, for example instead of visiting Roman ruins and churches we went to visit wineries and have talks by winemakers.

 

I see in my gardening magazine several cruise lines run specific garden cruises, why not a wine tour?

 

Viking boast of having their own exclusive winery in Austria that produces their own labelled Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt but not only was there no orgajsed visit to it when we cruised the Wachau Valley, but the concierge couldn't arrange a private visit for me.

[Host Jazzbeau]

I was wondering that, with 5 rivers under my belt (all in wine producing regions, you'll note ;) where to go next.

 

But I would return to the Rhone if there was a specific wine related cruise, for example instead of visiting Roman ruins and churches we went to visit wineries and have talks by winemakers.

 

I see in my gardening magazine several cruise lines run specific garden cruises, why not a wine tour?

 

Viking boast of having their own exclusive winery in Austria that produces their own labelled Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt but not only was there no orgajsed visit to it when we cruised the Wachau Valley, but the concierge couldn't arrange a private visit for me.

 

AMA does wine-themed versions of most of their itineraries: Danube, Seine (Normandy), Rhine, Douro and of course the Rhone. They also do a Beer-themed cruise at Christmas time (Danube). These cruises cover the standard itinerary, but add lots of extra wine-tasting activities.

[pontac]

Thanks, I'll look at their website and alos see if I can find any reviews on Cruisecritic

[pinotlover]

Pontac;

 

Unless one lives in a major metro area of a handful of States, one never sees Jaboulet in the US. It's distribution here is actually fairly limited. They are a wonderful producer and for many passengers this visit would represent a first glimpse of their wines. The same can be said of many of Chapoutier wines, especially anything higher than their basic lower tiered wines.

 

We will just have to agree to disagree.

 

Any of the cruise companies could make this area an incredible wine tour.

 

Macon; Do a tour out to Pouilly Fuisse and/or a trip up to one of the cru villages in the Beaujolais area such as Morgon or Moulin-a-Vent.

 

Vienne: Go across the river to Ampius, home of Cotie Roties, and/or to Condrieu and the world's greatest voignier.

 

Tain: visit the areas best Hermitage producers as outlined above.

 

CdP: The options are incredible and need a couple days at the least, especially if they took the lovely drive out and visited the lovely town of Gigondas , St. Cosme, and as an extra treat do Beaumes-de-Venice. If one wanted to do the Pont to Gard, include a trip to nearby Tavel to sample what is probably the best roses in the world.

[mwoodrowe1]

would you recommend going off on our own in Beaune for wine tasting? how long was the included tour?

 

what would you recommend as an alternative to the L'Hermitage tour to do on our own? it looks like the ships sails from Tournon at 1PM. so doesn't seem like very much time.

 

i am already planning to buy wine to have with dinner. it makes no sense not to drink the best wine of the region.

 

we are sailing on southbound on Sept 23 on the Heimdal. trying to plan now as we may want to go off on our own.

 

thanks in advance for the advice!

[pinotlover]

You are lucky with 9/23 a Wednesday, which will put one in Beaune on a Thursday. One could set up an appointment with a local producer and have a great tasting there. One could catch a cab and go to Puligny and hit several of wineries there for tastings, then skip up to Meursault (Chateau Meursault for example) and have a wonderful day, then back to the boat.

 

To be honest, Beaune was one of Vikings overall better tour days. They do a very good tour at the Hospice of Beaune, and give the cruisers a nice drive through of the village and Montrachet vineyards of Puligny. It is just sad that Viking chooses such a subpar producer in Beaune for their tastings.

 

We went over early and stayed in Puligny a couple of days at the Hotel Montrachet and had incredible tastings and dinners in several of the establishments in the surrounding area. We actually started a land trip in Avignon and worked our way, for over a week, north through Chat du Pape, Tain-Hermitage, Condrieu, Ampius, and Puligny. Incredible wine trip! We did final tastings in St. Alban and had lunch in Puligny at one of the wineries, picked up our suitcases and made the short drive to Chalon to meet the boat.

 

As stated in an earlier thread, Paul Jaboulet and Chaputier in Tain are the easiest and best stops for wine there. Jaboulet is right in the village center and about a 10 minute walk from the boat. Chaputier is two blocks away just around the corner. One has the opportunity to taste wines from the Cote Rote to CdP with these two great producers. Spending one's time there is far better, imo of course, than: eating chocolate samples, visiting a so-so museum, and a ride out into the unremarkable countryside where Viking does its wine tasting.

 

The most scenic section of the river, for this cruise, is the stretch from Lyon to just south of Condrieu, and most importantly from Vienne to Condrieu. One passes the incredible terraced vineyards of Cote Rote and Condrieu on the west bank of the river. This is just a short stretch of river but depending upon your actual departure time from Vienne (our boat ran late) and the early setting of the sun in late September, you may miss part of the scenery. My advice is to get a good seat and take in the countryside. In 2014, we struggled with high water levels, this year is seems to be the opposite, so the upper sundeck was closed during almost all our sailings! One had to maneuver to get a good seat to view the river, or do as we were often forced to do, and do it from our balcony , with wine in hand of course.

[mwoodrowe1]

You are lucky with 9/23 a Wednesday, which will put one in Beaune on a Thursday. One could set up an appointment with a local producer and have a great tasting there. One could catch a cab and go to Puligny and hit several of wineries there for tastings, then skip up to Meursault (Chateau Meursault for example) and have a wonderful day, then back to the boat.

 

 

wow thanks so much for all your advice. it seems to me the boat leaves chalon sur soane around 2PM. if we wanted to make a whole day of it, we would need to hook up with the boat again after it sails. decisions decisions

[pontac]

 

i am already planning to buy wine to have with dinner. it makes no sense not to drink the best wine of the region.

 

There's a good wine shop in Vienne a very short walk from the mooring spot, and you'll pass it if you take either of the included tours,Vienne Walking & Mini Train, or the alternative Roman Architecture Tour.

 

Shop faces the Temple of Augustus & Livia. It's called

La Cave du Temple à Vienne

and there's a video of it here

 

Just pick up a map from boat reception, its at Pl du Palais, marked in red No. 12 on map.

[mwoodrowe1]

There's a good wine shop in Vienne a very short walk from the mooring spot, and you'll pass it if you take either of the included tours,Vienne Walking & Mini Train, or the alternative Roman Architecture Tour.

 

Shop faces the Temple of Augustus & Livia. It's called

La Cave du Temple à Vienne

and there's a video of it here

 

Just pick up a map from boat reception, its at Pl du Palais, marked in red No. 12 on map.

 

wonderful thank you! i will get back to working on the trip this afternoon.

 

thank you Pontac & Pinotlover for all your tips!