Civita di Bagnoregio (from Civitavecchia)

After years of watching Rick Steves, we have finally planned to visit Civita di Bagnoregio on our next port stop in Civitavecchia.

 

I've seen its website and the recent article in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine.

 

Can anyone tell me if we should plan on spending the whole day there or if our visit is combinable with another great place in the area. We like to walk around, explore, take a lot of photos, and have lunch featuring the local specialties.

 

The shore excursion offered by the cruise line goes to Tuscania, Villa Lante, and Lake Bolsena (but not to Civita). Any feedback on these other places?

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Ilene

I do love your spirit of adventure. You don't say how you are planning to get to Civita, but I assume you are going to rent a car or hire a private guide/car. Personally, we love to drive in Italy and this is a good option from Civitavecchia where there are a few car rental dealers in town (we usually use Europcar). I cannot say how long you might want in Civita, but I suspect it will be no more than a couple of hours. Another hilltop town in the area (a lot larger and more commercial) is Orvieto. Putting these two towns together as an itinerary might make for a fun day. Another possibility is to make a short stop in Viterbo (its on the way) which has some charm (we drove through Viterbo in May...but did not stop).

 

Hank

Civita ... no more than a couple of hours. Another hilltop town in the area is Orvieto. Putting these two towns together as an itinerary might make for a fun day.

Hank

 

I agree with Hank on both points.

 

The facade of the Duomo at Orvieto is the most fascinating one in Italy - you can see that the scenes of hell and damnation would scare the daylights of the faithful and into virtue!

 

The Capella Nuova inside contains outstanding frescoes by Luca Signorelli that were studied by Michelangelo for his own Last Judgement fresco in the Sistine Chapel.

Thank you both for your comments. Yes, we plan to drive ourselves if we can arrange an after-hours drop off for the car. We will be there on a Sunday when Europe Car is closed, but Hertz is open until noon.

 

Since my previous post today, I have discovered the town of Pitigliano. See http://www.pitigliano-toscana.com. One look at the opening photo on that website and I've added it to our itinerary. Hank, have you been there?

 

Ilene

Thanks so much for your inquiry, as we have similar thoughts as to how to spend our day in Civitavecchia.

 

However, I've having difficulty in finding out which car rental companies have offices near the port. So far, Europcar and Argus are the only ones showing availability. And only Europcar provides an actual address in Civitavecchia. Are there others? Also, for a single day rental in April 2007, Europcar shows 122 Euros for a Golf, and Argus shows 128 Euros for a Fiat Panda. Is this normal? (Seems high to me for a single day rental, but what do I know?)

 

I would really appreciate any helpful advice! Thanks!!

We're in port on a Sunday when Europe Car is closed. Hertz is open half a day so I sent an inquiry about after-hours drop off. I haven't researched other companies yet.

 

The cost of the car for a day plus gasoline is still well below the cost of the ship's shore excursion. The full day ship's excursion for 4 people is $500, so even if the car costs $200 (160 Euros), you are still way ahead of the game.

 

Even a car and driver/guide for the day (400 Euros), split among 4 people, is the same cost as the ship's excursion and you are able to plan your own itinerary!

Hi!

Visiting this with Orvieto and Cit....would be a long day. Pitigliano is a very unvisited and interesting place.

A note...

Rick steves books are very popular and some of the "Undiscovered sites" he discusses I have found to be very very touristy due ti his promotion.

Still the hill towns of Umbria are spectacular...highly reccommend.

Oh my goodness! I thought I had been everywhere (big smile) but Pitigliano has never been on our itineraries. In fact, until it was mentioned here I forgot that place even existed. You are going to be limited by your time in port (its why we also love to spend weeks in Italy with a car) and Pitigliano is somewhat off the beaten path (I had to get out the ole Michelin map book). I would still vote for Civita and Orvieto...and if you have a few extra hours perhaps you could get to Pitigliano but I am very skeptical. You certainly should take some time for a nice lunch (Orvieto has plenty of cafes) and you should keep your flexibility and modify your plans as the day progresses (this is my creed). As to Rick Steves, although I enjoy his books (and web site), and think he is great, I do sometimes disagree with his recommendations. There is nothing like a "hidden treasure" that is published in books read by millions. We have been to "treasure" kind of places in Italy (Monteriggioni comes to mind) where 15 minutes was more than enough to sample the charms. By the way, we almost always avoid restaurants recommened by Rick Steves because they are sure to be full of tourists with "dog eared" Rick Steves books :)

 

Hank

We just returned to the ship after the most fantastic day! We were able to visit both Pitigliano and Civita di Bagnoregio the same day, in a rental car, with time to spare!

 

Pitigliano was fascinating - of special interest to the Jewish traveler because of its rich Jewish heritage. There is a museum and synagogue. The town is on the border between Lazio and Tuscany. It sits atop a high cliff.

 

Civita (Rick Steve's favorite) is unbelievable to see in person. I didn't think I could make it up there, but I had to! (Huffing and puffing). His restaurant recommendation was fabulous.

 

If anyone wants more information on how to do this independent excursion, please E-mail me at variousmail@bellsouth.net AFTER November 16 when we arrive back home.

 

Ilene

We’ve returned from the May 25th Millennium sailing tired but happy, so I'm writing to highly recommend Civita de Bagnoregio. Oh my heck, it is AMAZING and did not disappoint, despite our high expectations. We visited Tuscania, Civita de Bagnoregio, and Bagnaia during our port day during a private driver. The highway from Civitavecchia to Tuscania (we also passed Tarquinia but did not stop) would be very easy to do on your own. This is a 2-lane highway with lots of pastures and farm scenery with very little traffic. The drive from Tuscania to Civita de Bagnoregio takes you through some lovely villages overlooking a large lake, but I think it’s definitely do-able on your own too. Bagnaia was approx a 20 minute drive from Civita de Bagnoregio, and then we were approx an hour from Civitavecchia for our return. We were glad that we had a driver because it is so much more relaxing, so FYI.

 

Our driver was Bruno with http://www.montitours.com/eng/about_us.htm (recommended in the Rick Steves Italy guide). Please note that Bruno is a tour guide in Rome and did not know much about the places we visited for this tour, but we hired a driver only so were satisfied with his services (I’ve written separate messages on these boards regarding the differences between guides and drivers so don’t want to create any misunderstandings). With this car service, the price for the van is 450 Euros, so you can fill with 8 passengers for a total of only 56 Euros per person.

 

My husband and I have traveled extensively in Europe, and I'm glad to add my hearty endorsement to the comments of others above to visit this wonderful village.

 

Happy travels to all,

Donna

I was fascinated and chagrined to see that people coming to visit this lovely area of central Italy choose a bus company located over 100 kms away (making it more costly) and a guide from Rome who does not know the area to bring them to Civita, Pitigliano and Bagnaia in the Province of Viterbo.

I lam a college prof and guidebook writer and have been living here and writing about the area for years-in English and Italian. Several people on the cruisecritic board have been to visit and have enjoyed the local festivals with us. Perhaps they will chime in later.

I was surprised to see that Hiltner, whom I considered an expert, did not even stop in Viterbo when he was passing through. Happenings for the next few months include an opera festival, Baroque music , numerous festivals in the 60+ towns of the area.There are local bus companies and guides of the Viterbo province who speak dozens of languages. Check out the province of Viterbo or Lazio region websites who have chosen my cultural website (the only one in English) to represent the area elegantetruriadotcom

From Civitavecchia, are these places accessible by train? I don't think we'll be renting a car when we dock in Civitavec'ia---don't care to do Tarquinia....

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I was fascinated and chagrined to see that people coming to visit this lovely area of central Italy choose a bus company located over 100 kms away (making it more costly) and a guide from Rome who does not know the area to bring them to Civita, Pitigliano and Bagnaia in the Province of Viterbo.

We were very pleased with our visit, and this was the best method for us during this trip. Our precruise ground stay was on the Amalfi Coast and Lake Como, but we hope to be able to stay in Umbria on a future ground trip (have also stayed on ground trips in Tuscany). These are great options for those who have spent time in Rome and are looking for alternatives. I have been to Viterbo as a day trip from Rome and think that it's great too. Thanks for the link for future reference.

 

Donna

From Civitavecchia, are these places accessible by train? I don't think we'll be renting a car when we dock in Civitavec'ia---don't care to do Tarquinia....

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I don't think so, but perhaps the professor knows how you can go by public transportation from Civitavecchia during a port stay.

 

Have a great trip,

Donna

Vetrella, Its great to see you active on this board again and we remain a great fan of your advice. Yes, we did pass through your lovely town last year and we plead guilty to not stopping. In real life (as opposed to these boards) we are the shy type and didn't want to be too forward and invite ourselves to visit and it would have been impossible to stop in Viterbo without looking for your interesting home (we do have your e-mail). You have nothing to fear (smile) this year since we just returned from Europe (we were not in Italy) and will probably not get back to Italy until next spring.

 

Hank

Hank,

I've enjoyed reading so many of your posts. We have adopted your philosophy and are arranging all of our tours ourselves... and with others on our cruise.

We will be visiting Europe for the first time in April and spending 3 nights pre-cruise in Rome. I cannot wait. I don't think I've ever been this excited about a vacation.

I am a research freak so I'm sure I will have memorized every fact regarding our ports by the time we cruise.

 

BTW, I feel like I should know you--I grew up in New Cumberland. :D

My parents still live there.

 

Jill

From Civitavecchia, are these places accessible by train? I don't think we'll be renting a car when we dock in Civitavec'ia---don't care to do Tarquinia....

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Could we get there by train?

Give me a few hours to plod through the piles on my library table and I'll come up with the bus schedule...I picked it up last time I was in Tarquinia, thinking of you people.

Check back later, as there is a procession tonight (third one in two weeks, its the season) and I have to hang out the drapes and light the candles as my windows are on the main street where the procession passes.

Tonight its in honor of St. Anthony and it finishes with fireworks. On Sunday it was Corpus Domini and the streets were decorated with designs made with flowers-beautiful but ephemeral.

Jilly, April is the perfect time to be in Rome. In fact, its possible we will be there next April depending which transatlantic cruise we decide to book. You know I am a big fan of pre-trip research and have always thought its part of the fun. When you know all your options it gives you a lot of flexibility to make the best trip decisions that suit your own interests rather than having others dictate you itinerary, wants, needs, etc. If you are real interested in the Vatican, be sure to check into the Vatican Scavi tour which is a short tour (less than an hour) that takes you on a walk through some excavations that are right below St Peters. This tour is booked by sending a request directly to the Vatican,,,and is limited to only a handfull every day (tour groups are less than 15 and they only have a few English speaking tours per day). Although there is nothing "earth shattering on this little tour" its one of those fun things that you do so you can say you did it!

 

Hank

Hank,

I did actually look into the Scavi tours but I'm still trying to figure out what we will realistically have time to do. Of course, I want to see as much as we can but don't want to set a 'death march' sort of pace. I'd like to linger at a cafe and people watch a little too.

Also, I've read posts where people have seen "X" number of sites in one day but did they just stop and take a picture and move on or did they spend time at the site. That's what I'm trying to figure out.

My initial plan is:

Day 1: touring the Vatican, St. Peters and Castel De Angelo.

Not sure how much more we will do this day as this is our arrival day and we will be jetlagged from the overnight flight....

Day 2: Collesium, Forum, Palentine, Capitol possibly Domus Aurea 8 hours?

Evening --Trevi Fountain, Pantheon & Piazza Navona

Day 3: Galleria Borghese & Villa Guilliana 4 hrs (time limits at G Borghese 2hrs) remainder of day walking around looking at Bernini creations.

I am currently fascinated with Bernini and the Etruscans. :D

Does this sound reasonable or have I tried to see too much? It's so hard to tell.

Thanks for any advice.

Jill

I just wanted to say that we rented a car in Civitavecchia and drove to Civita di Bagneregio on our own. I had not pre-arranged the car, but rental was quick and easy. The drive was lovely, and the hilltown (as others have said) was just wonderful. IMHO it is a great way to spend a day in Civitavecchia!

http://www.civitavecchia.com/uk/servizi/extraurb.shtm

Since you asked, I'm sending the link that will show you all the bus services going out of Civitavecchia to numerous small towns in a range of 10 min. to 2 hrs. away. For the adventurous types its a gold mine of tiny towns, Etruscan sites,("Affreschi: Exploring Etruria" was the title of a previous book I wrote about the area) : hill top towns with castles, places usually never visited by cruisers thus very unspoiled and authentic. Don't expect lots of English speakers unless you find your way to my town which has many expats and a lovely town center . Amazingly the town is an English protectorate since the days of Henry VIII..that's another story, and another book that I've written after I discovered the history of the town. Happy to answer any questions about the area.

The train that stops at Civitavecchia goes on -opposite direction of Rome- to Tarquinia with its Etruscan tombs and lovely town, but the bus is preferable since it brings you in to the town center.

Look at a map and you'll see why Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio, as well as Pitigliano are impossible by train and best only by car.

I was fascinated and chagrined to see that people coming to visit this lovely area of central Italy choose a bus company located over 100 kms away (making it more costly) and a guide from Rome who does not know the area to bring them to Civita, Pitigliano and Bagnaia in the Province of Viterbo.

I lam a college prof and guidebook writer and have been living here and writing about the area for years-in English and Italian. Several people on the cruisecritic board have been to visit and have enjoyed the local festivals with us. Perhaps they will chime in later.

I was surprised to see that Hiltner, whom I considered an expert, did not even stop in Viterbo when he was passing through. Happenings for the next few months include an opera festival, Baroque music , numerous festivals in the 60+ towns of the area.There are local bus companies and guides of the Viterbo province who speak dozens of languages. Check out the province of Viterbo or Lazio region websites who have chosen my cultural website (the only one in English) to represent the area elegantetruriadotcom

Who would you recommend I contact for a full day excursion out of Civitacchia next June?

Thanks - Donna:)

Vetralla

Perhaps you should know a bit more to make a recommendation.

We will be 6-8 (of 60ish age) :) women, interested in a visit to the Roman hill towns, including a nice luncheon, and perhaps a stop a a winery ( if we could see the workings of it a bit). We have all day - our ship will stay docked in Civitavecchia overnight on Thursday 6/26 til we disembark the following morning.

Thanks

Donna

wrong topic

Edited November 28, 2015 by SUBnet192