My trip report: Serenade 12-night Western Med (Venice) with many pictures

[Steppy08]

Thanks for the great review so far! I'm on the June 22 sailing. Can't wait!

[mo&fran]

Great information so far...thanks. My wife and I will be on this cruise on August 21. Here's a random question: in Carrefour, did you happen to notice if they had alcohol sales?

 

Also, as a HUGE film fan, I'm jealous you were in Cannes during the festival. True, it must have made the place much crazier than usual, but I would willingly have put up with it.

Yes they do. In the same area as groceries.

[silentbob007]

Day 4: Civitavecchia (Rome)

 

BIRG by cmong, on Flickr

 

This was the port I spent the bulk of my time for planning. I thought that pricing for ship tours was simply insane, especially given the websites I'd read with details on how to travel to Rome on your own. Armed with the Internet (to look up train schedules) and my Streetwise map of Rome, I decided I would make a go of it. The worst part about our itinerary was that we arrived in Rome on a Sunday, and since it was not the last Sunday of the month, the Vatican Museum and Sisteen Chapel were closed.

 

Approaching St. Peter's by cmong, on Flickr

 

The ship was scheduled to dock at 7 AM, and I was ready to get off as soon as possible. I grabbed a quick breakfast in the Windjammer, returned to my room to grab my bag, and headed down to deck 2. I noticed the door open (though no announcement had been made), so I exited at about 7:10. I then boarded the port shuttle which waited a few minutes (7:15 or so) to get mostly filled. We were dropped at the bus stop at the front of the port, and following everyone else, I headed for the gates. Immediately after exiting the gates, a woman from a booth to the right asked if anyone wanted to go ahead and buy train tickets. I was the only person who stopped (having read about this previously), but a minute later, I had my BIRG ticket for 9 Euro. This ticket was good for all regional trains to/from Civitavecchia/Rome, as well as the metro and busses in Rome ... a great deal considering RCI wanted around $100 just to be dropped off in Rome via bus. With my ticket in hand, I hoofed it to the train station (following the coast to the right, then up to the higher level). Upon entering, there was a large line for tickets which I could avoid since I already had purchased mine. I instead went to the yellow validation machine, stuck my BIRG ticket in, then headed out to the platform where a train was waiting. Despite my urge to board immediately, I took a look at the track signs and realized that the train to Rome would be on track 3 instead of track 1. I took the stairs down, cut across to track 3, then helped an elderly British couple wrangle their bags up the stairs and emerged with the train waiting on the tracks. The conductor was motioning for us to hurry, so I boarded and grabbed a seat on the second level of the train about a minute-and-a-half before the train departed ... the 7:34 train (which was beyond my wildest dreams ... I had hoped for the 8:02 train).

 

Fountain in Vatican's Plaza by cmong, on Flickr

 

A few couples jumped onboard just before the train pulled away (they had been in the ticket line). I heard them discussing return trains, so I pulled out my printed schedule with times/numbers for them to reference. We shared some information and, in the end, decided to stick together for our day in Rome ... so I'm glad to say I found myself in a group of 5 instead of alone. We were a good complement to each other as I had the good map and times, while others were quickly willing to ask for help or to ensure our direction (something I tend to skip doing unless necessary).

 

Holy water container in St. Peter's by cmong, on Flickr

 

The train ride lasted a little over an hour as regional trains stop at most stops (more direct trains ... innercity trains ... don't make as many stops and are a little faster, but the BIRG tickets cannot be used on them). We exited at Station St. Pietro, then headed towards the dome of St. Peter's Basilica. After taking pictures in the courtyard area, we got into line go to into the basilica. We were so early that this line was only about 5 minutes long and was go through security (austerity measures were also in effect ... knees and shoulders covered, no hats). We toured the basilica and Treasury Museum (extra 7 Euro admission ... probably not worth it for me) for an hour and then hit the street and headed for Piazza Navona.

 

Inside St. Peter's by cmong, on Flickr

[silentbob007]

Day 4: Rome (continued)

 

After a bit of a walk, we arrived at Piazza Navona. It was fairly busy, but there were ample opportunities for pictures and to visit the church there.

 

Piazza Navona by cmong, on Flickr

 

 



Piazza Navona by cmong, on Flickr

 



Piazza Navona by cmong, on Flickr

 



Piazza Navona by cmong, on Flickr

 



Piazza Navona by cmong, on Flickr

[shopper77]

Thanks for all of the great info, and your pictures are fantastic.:) We are doing some of the ports in October, so this is a great help. We have never been to Europe before:eek:

[silentbob007]

From Piazza Navona, we moved on to the Pantheon. Unfortunately entrance was barred by the time we reached it because mass was being held. We grabbed some coffees at a nearby cafe, then headed off to the mass of humanity that occupied every bit of space around the Trevi Fountain.

 

Pantheon by cmong, on Flickr

 



Trevi Fountain by cmong, on Flickr

 



Trevi Fountain by cmong, on Flickr

 



Wrong shoulder ... whoops. by cmong, on Flickr

 



Trevi Fountain by cmong, on Flickr

[newcruiser1573]

I'm captivated by your review. I will be on the Serenade in August and your review is making me more excited. Thanks for the fantastic pictures and your attention to detail.

[silentbob007]

Once we were done taking pictures around Trevi Fountain, I felt the need for a gelato break. We then headed to an even greater mass of humanity ... the Spanish Steps. Yikes ... not the place for those who like having space. We climbed the steps for a picture of the piazza.

 

Spanish Steps by cmong, on Flickr

 



Piazza Espagna by cmong, on Flickr

 

We decided our next step would be the Colosseum. This seemed like a perfect time to use our BIRG ticket to ride the metro as there is a station right below the Spanish Steps. We actually used the entrance at the top of the steps, then had to take the elevator to the bottom (good to remember for those who want to get to the top and don't want to take the steps ... I spent the steps wondering about the Spanish Escalator anyway). This was quite a slow, smooth, and somewhat scary elevator ride. We got onto the very crowded train to the Termini, then switched lines and rode to the Circus Maximus. Definitely watch your belongings on the metro ... I got at least one "bump" from an accordion-carrying child begging for loose change, though with nothing in my pockets, I had little fear. These trains can be stacked tight, though, so you have to be especially on your guard.

 

Arch of Constantine by cmong, on Flickr

 

We decided not to tour the Colosseum as the lines were quite long by that point and our time was running short. A combo ticket for the Colosseum, Palantine Hill, and Roman Forum can be purchased at any of the sites, so if you want to go in the Colosseum, you might buy the ticket at one of the other sites to save an hour in line.

 

Colosseum by cmong, on Flickr

 



Colosseum by cmong, on Flickr

 

[silentbob007]

From the Colosseum, we traveled up the street along the Roman Forum. Museums and ruins were the main sights along this path.

 

Look back at Colosseum by cmong, on Flickr

 

By this time it was nearing 3:00 and we decided it was time to start heading towards the train station for our return. My original plan, traveling alone, was to grab a 2:45 train to ensure that I made it back to the ship in plenty of time. However, as a group, we felt a bit more confident traveling together, and we were shooting for a 4:20 train (5:30 arrival ... leaving one "back-up" train that would get us back to Civitavecchia by 6:00 for a 6:30 all-aboard).

 

Hail Ceasar by cmong, on Flickr

 

We headed in the direction of the Termini Station ... it was hard to miss as it is a huge place that is also where the bus lines and metro lines meet. With a bit of time, we grabbed some food at a neighboring restaurant (not the best eating around here ... I would suggest elsewhere if you have time). I had the train number on my printout, and when it finally arrived on the board, it was a train heading toward Pisa on track 28. I checked the printed schedule (sorted by times) hanging on the wall and confirmed that Civitavecchia was a stop for this train) and then we headed to track 28 which was way in the back of the station ... and when I say way in the back, I mean a 10-15 minute walk. We arrived at the track about 4:00 and found a train already parked there. We inquired and were assured this was the train to Pisa and Civitavecchia ... though it was already very very full. We headed about as far forward as possible and managed to find seats together, but by the time the train left, it was standing room only and continued to be through all stops until we reached Civitavecchia at about 5:30. From there I said goodbye to my companions who wanted to look around the port a little bit, and I walked back to the port, boarded the port bus, and went back to the ship.

 

Ruins by cmong, on Flickr

 

It was a very, very full day that I certainly felt in my feet and calves that night. However, I felt I definitely hit the Rome "highlights" for only 9 Euro in transportation costs ... I marked that as a win in my book.

 

Museo Centrale del Risorgimento by cmong, on Flickr

 



Museo Centrale del Risorgimento by cmong, on Flickr

 

[silentbob007]

Here are the Compass scans for Rome:

 

Day 4 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 4-1 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 4-2 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 4-3 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Statue in Shadow in St. Peter's by cmong, on Flickr

[CruiseWookiee]

Thank you so much for posting this review. This is great info. I noticed in the Cruise Compass that there is an ATM on the ship near guest services that dispenses euros. Are there excessive fees to use this ATM? Is that why you searched for ATM on shore?

[tanelicus]

Did you go to the Sistine Chapel?

[silentbob007]

Thank you so much for posting this review. This is great info. I noticed in the Cruise Compass that there is an ATM on the ship near guest services that dispenses euros. Are there excessive fees to use this ATM? Is that why you searched for ATM on shore?

 

Whenever I tried to use that ATM, it was not working. I believe it did have higher fees than what was ashore. You could also buy Euros from Guest Relations, though I don't think the exchange rate was the best.

[silentbob007]

Did you go to the Sistine Chapel?

 

Unfortunately no because it was closed as we arrived on a Sunday. It is only open the last Sunday of every month (when it is free and even more mobbed).

[silentbob007]

Day 5: Salerno (Naples)

 

Pompeii by cmong, on Flickr

 

By this point in the cruise, I was starting to get tired. Running around Rome all day definitely wore me out. For this stop, I had joined a RomeInLimo tour group shared on our Roll Call for this cruise. We managed to fill the tour, meaning we had 8 passengers. Evidently it was new that the Serenade would dock in Salerno as opposed to Naples, so make sure when you arrange these tours that you have the correct starting port. There did not seem to be a lot around the port, though honestly, I did not explore.

 

Pompeii by cmong, on Flickr

 

The directions for our tour were to meet at 8 AM. I exited the ship at about 7:40 and found our driver holding a sign with the group name on it. When everyone arrived (our first time meeting each other), we were loaded into a van with two benches for 3, with two in the front seat next to the driver. It was a little tight, but no tighter than any of the busses I had experienced.

 

Pompeii with Vesuvius crater in background by cmong, on Flickr

 

Our first stop was Pompeii, and we arrived very early (some of the first customers through the gate). Our private tour did not include ticket prices, so entrance was 11 Euro. I made use of the ATM on site to grab a few extra Euros for the day ... and this was by far the best time to do so as, when we had finished at Pompeii, the ticket lines were long as were the lines for the ATM. Several people offered their services as personal tour guides, which could be hired for about 100 Euro, but our group decided to strike out on our own. We were given two hours to explore, and for the most part, our group scattered. Since we were there so early, I found myself walking around the site quite alone ... at some points, going 15 minutes without seeing another soul. It was at times a surreal experience. I did not follow any guide or map ... I just went where my feet took me.

 

Pompeii baths by cmong, on Flickr

 

Later in the morning, the site got much more crowded as ship tour arrived. I gleaned a bit of information by listening to these tours as I passed, but for the most part, I tried to avoid the large groups. The walk around Pompeii was mostly on rough cobblestone, so I would not recommend it for those who have severe trouble getting around. I saw one older lady having trouble with her walker on the cobblestones ... it did not look like a fun time. After two hours, we met back at the entrance, found our driver, and then headed on to Sorrento.

 

Pompeii arches by cmong, on Flickr

[LBumb]

i am enjoying your review very much.

thank you for taking the time to post.

[silentbob007]

Day 5: Continued

 

Road to Sorrento by cmong, on Flickr

 

After leaving Pompeii, we headed to Sorrento along the coast. This was a pleasant drive with some nice views. Upon arrival at Sorrento, we were given an hour to explore before meeting to go to lunch. Sorrento was quite busy by this time as many tour busses and groups were dropping off passengers. The main shopping street was packed shoulder-to-shoulder. I made a gelato stop, but I noticed many others looking at local products such as Limoncello. There were also quite a few stores selling very nice inlaid wood items. Trying to escape some of the madness and find a place to sit, I found a very quite park just to the side of the main drop-off point.

 

Park in Sorrento by cmong, on Flickr

 

After meeting our driver, we were driven a few miles off of the beaten path and taken to our lunch stop: il Leone Rosso. I joined three others from the group at a table for four, and we quite enjoyed purchasing different food items and sharing them amongst ourselves. I purchased cannelloni as my main, but I also had to try their Focaccia Lardo as I've always wanted to try lardo after reading about it in a novel. I thought that everything was excellent and quite reasonably priced, with my food plus a large bottle of water coming to 14 Euro. The service was quite friendly and European-slow (ie, you are left alone), and I quite enjoyed this stop.

 

Amalfi Coast by cmong, on Flickr

 

After our lunch, we drove along the Amalfi Coast to Positano. There was some breathtaking scenery on this drive along narrow roads. Our stop in Positano was only 45 minutes or so, but I ventured down to the beach ... which also meant I had to venture back up to our meeting point. From there, it was back to the ship, which was about an 1.5 hour drive. In the end, it was quite an excellent tour and very reasonably priced at 75 Euro/pp plus expenses.

 

Positano from a distance by cmong, on Flickr

 



Positano from the beach by cmong, on Flickr

[silentbob007]

Here are the Compass scans for Salerno:

 

Day 5 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 5-1 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 5-2 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 5-3 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Focaccia Lardo by cmong, on Flickr

[tanelicus]

Unfortunately no because it was closed as we arrived on a Sunday. It is only open the last Sunday of every month (when it is free and even more mobbed).

 

I will have to keep that in mind when planning a trip to Rome.

 

There is no question it looked like you were having a great time. The pictures are great!

Edited June 3, 2012 by tanelicus
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[alohanails]

We're there 2 or 3 formal nights? So far it looks like day 2 and 5 were formal....is there one more to come? Great review so far....we are on this cruise in Sept. and cannot wait!

Thanks, bonnie

[silentbob007]

Three formal nights ... the last, I believe, was after Split, so should be upcoming.

[silentbob007]

Day 7: Venice

 

After a much anticipated sea day following Salerno, the Serenade had essentially another half of a sea day before arriving in Venice around 2 PM. Starting at noon or so, people started lining the deck for a good position for sail-in. I headed to the helipad, which is accessible forward from the outside promenade on deck 5. The helipad got quite a few people, but one could still find a spot on the rail as most on the ship did not seem to realize that the helipad existed or was accessible.

 

Coming into Venice by cmong, on Flickr

 

The arrival in Venice was quite nice ... and let you see how insanely busy St. Mark's Square was. The arrival was hyped over the PA by the captain and cruise director as one of the best arrival cities. It was pretty nice, though I'm not sure it beat Sydney. Anyway, the ship docked down by the bus and parking terminal, Piazza Roma. Royal Caribbean offered a transfer shuttle directly from the ship to St. Mark's for $20 (one day pass) or $35 (two day pass). Other options included walking, taking the Alilaguna Shuttle from the middle of the facing pier (11 Euro round-trip to St. Mark's, I believe), or walking to Piazza Roma and taking the Vaporetto (water bus) to where you wanted to go with various tiers of pricing (hourly, etc).

 

Crowded St. Mark's Square by cmong, on Flickr

 

Also of note ... passengers were required to take their passports ashore. This evidently came as a surprise to Royal Caribbean as no announcement was made about this until Serenade had docked and been cleared. Evidently people kept missing this announcement as it was made about 7-8 times by the international ambassador in various languages. For your information, passports were checked by Venice port security before reaching the ship's security, so it was definitely necessary to bring them ... and bringing copies only was not permitted. Venice also had another strange rule where most of the crew (depending on where they were from ... mostly Asian countries) had a curfew of 10 PM as Venetian officials would not allow them to be ashore after that.

 

Venice street by cmong, on Flickr

 

Having watched the ship pull in, I waited about 30 minutes after the ship's clearance before trying to head ashore in an effort to avoid line-ups. I exited the ship without issue (though I did have to flash my passport), walked to where the shuttle was running. The line was quite long by this point. I bypassed it, walked out of the port, then crossed the bridge to Piazza Roma. This was about a 10-15 minute walk once off the ship, though there was a 1 Euro people-mover from the port area directly there if you wanted to take a short-cut and avoid some of the port traffic. Once at Piazza Roma, I took the bridge across to Venice proper and started my walk to St. Mark's. Frankly, specific directions in Venice would be pretty worthless. I simply walked in the direction I wanted to go, took side streets when reaching dead-ends, and used the directional signs on buildings to ensure I was walking in the right direction (St. Mark and per Rialto were my landmarks). I thought that this walk was very nice in terms of seeing the "real" Venice, and throughout I came across various restaurants, shops, vendors, and sights. I crossed the Rialto Bridge and eventually found myself at St. Marks about an hour after I had left the ship. In my mind, it would be nearly impossible to make the walk much faster, especially given the crowds that clogged up the streets. At St. Mark's, I checked out the usual sights (Bridge of Sighs, etc). I also traveled past the far end of the square to find the Hard Rock Cafe and buy a souvenir there (in the tiny tiny tiny Rock Shop).

 

Waiting gondolas by cmong, on Flickr

 

After a bit of exploration, I returned to the ship. This took about an hour again, though the streets were getting much less crowded by this time. I followed directional signs to Piazza Roma that were written on buildings and, occasionally, in chalk on the sidewalk.

 

Gondolas under the Bridge of SIghs by cmong, on Flickr

[silentbob007]

Here are the Compass scans for the day of arrival in Venice. Note that dinner in the main dining room was open seating from 6-9.

 

Day 7 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 7-1 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 7-2 by cmong, on Flickr

 



Day 7-3 by cmong, on Flickr

 



RCI in Venice by cmong, on Flickr

[Poorplaya]

This is an amazing review so far, thank you for posting, i cant wait for the rest, glad you enoyed your trip

[vickiw0318]

You weren't the only non-bigshot in Cannes. My ex-pat son who lives over in Antibes right now took the train over to see who he could see.

 

I wonder if the confusion you mentioned with the bus ticket kiosks in Barcelona has to do with people trying to use credit cards that don't have the European chips in them. My son tells me that "normal" US credit cards are accepted in most places, but that one place they won't work are ticket kiosks. (Toll booths are another place.) You can buy pre-loaded "chip" credit cards here in the states, but the ones I checked out before my last visit really had a high "service fee".