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Artemis in Norway, almost live


capnpugwash

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The day continued to be flat calm but with bright uninterrupted sun with a cool wind across the deck, perfect weather really. The water was beyond calm it looked to be oily and viscous, marvellous really. We were visited by a small school of dolphins in the distance, but they could have been Minke Whales although they were moving faster.

 

 

Strictly speaking they are correct when they tell me that we will not see the midnight sun, but last night the sun set close to midnight and the resulting twilight with great vision continued through the night. So basically it didn't get dark although we could not see the actual sun. Good enough for me I think.

 

 

Tonight we will be at the North Cape and will have midnight shuffle board on deck. Awesome.

 

 

We won the Syndicate Quiz on Monday night and collected our bottle of what is colloquially known as “paint stripper”, last night starting off with a one point handicap we made the tie break and won again. Who knows when those little gems of knowledge will come in handy. The first meeting of OPEC was in 1960, if you care.

 

 

I woke early this morning and the warmth yesterday and sods law has combined in thick mist/fog and we have the mournful sound of the Artemis fog horn as our background music. I do hope that it clears as yesterday afterrnoon we could see 26 miles as we cruised past the Lofoten Islands, which we will visit later on our itinerary.

 

 

We are due into Honningsvag at lunchtime today and the main attraction is the trip to the North Cape, It is only a three hour round trip and P& O are charging £48 per person which equates to £192 for the four of us, sadly too much I think. I am told that the trip is quite good, not worth the money and you can get just as good a view from the ship as you can from the land.

 

 

We did move to our third dinner table last night and our companions actually held conversations with us and each other, It made all the difference and we only made the 10.30 quiz by the skin of our teeth.

 

 

I will try to post this later this morning but because we are above 70 degrees latitude and 300 odd miles inside the Arctic Circle the satellite connectivity is a little hit or miss.

 

 

 

 

The satellite didn't work so I can report on the North Cape, it is falsely reported to be the northernmost point on mainland Europe and although it is close the actual place is ple of miles higher but with an unpronouncable name with lots of v's and a's in its' name. Hence the deception.

 

 

The cape is the bluff end of a long cliff with a height of about 1000 feet or 300 meters, it is certainly an anticlimax, or was to us. The Captain took us within 200 meters at midnight and the twilight was still so bright as to be like daylight, that was an interesting treat which I suppose we could achieve due to the small size of Artemis.

 

 

I am trying not to sound negative about the North Cape but I am finding it very difficult. In truth I think that the southern part of Norway contains the beautiful tall fjords that I certainly think of when imagining this country but this far north in the Arctic Circle there isa certain majesty but it is a combination of granite and slate cliffs, crystal clear water and bright sun at all hours.

 

 

Today we spend the day at Hammerfest which is the world's northern-most town apparently. The tours available today are limited to a visit to a Sami village. Sami is the “new” name for

Laps and these folk tend vast herds of reindeer as nomads. The village is p aermanent ant we can visit them in their national dress. This sounds depressing enough but the other tour is a town tour culminating in a visit to the 45 year old Polar Bear Club. You can join this club for a vast amount of money and receive a pin and a certificate. I shall remain on board or perhaps stroll through the town; although there is 7 euro shuttle fee. I object less here I suppose as the town is poorer and smaller than Trondheim, but it still irks.

 

 

The sea continues to be relatively flat and the sun is currently shining, not sunbathing weather really, although that doesn't stop the few lobster look-alikes. The big thing now that starts around 6am is jogging and deck walking. Our cabin is on the Promenade Deck and every minute, all day long people are flitting by in all garbs, from sweat bands and lycra to home knitted cardigans. Still it stops me dwelling on the shuttle bus fare.

 

 

We survived Hammerfest and to be fair, the Town is quite attractive with some painted houses but the grey concrete buildings and the Gas production works do detract. They did hand out several hundred copies of coffee table books of Norway with beatiful pictures and interesting facts and articles, so maybe the shuttle bus fee is ok.

 

 

The Sami visit was a surprise with the man of the house speaking English with an Oxford accent taking a breather from his college lecturing job, his wife who is a school teacher and their 3 children, the eldest of which is studying Law. Not your standard family and certainly not your normal nomadic reindeer herders. The father does go off for some months from October to handle his herd. All very idyllic.

 

 

As is the weather, bright sun most of the day although fairly cool, clear skies and flat seas. Glorious sunsets with sunrise no more tham 2 to 3 hours later. More twilight than darkness. Although the nightly fog rolls in around 4.30am and the mournful foghorn starts.

 

 

We are heading south now and will call at Tromso today, hopefully the internet will be back in operation soon.

 

 

I woke at 3.30am as the sun was reaching greater strength and it was beautiful, our portside cabin gave a view of small hills bathed in the glow of the sun with strands of mist painted across them. An hour later and the mist had become inpenetrable fog and I could just see the Ship's handrails. The sea remains calm and it was 10am before the fog burned off to reveal a grey day in a grey town. We were moored in a very unappealing commercial dock that was less than attractive. There were some tours and others paid the £7 fee for the shuttle bus. As I have spoken of before, I think that this is a poor show, I have today changed my mind now that the truth has emerged. This fee actually allows you to travel all day on any of the public buses in the town, which I think is great value, I don't think that P&O realise this as they haven't once mentioned it.

 

 

We sailed about 6pm and the fjord leaving Tromso was absolutely fantastic, we had the towering cliffs that I wanted and then some. Magnificent.. it has changed my entire view of this area. I do hope that it might continue.

 

 

We are currently steaming towards the Lofoten Islands which stretch for 70 miles south west of Norway and start about 70 miles off the north west coast. All tours have sold out for today especially the trip to the Ice Bar.

 

 

***

 

 

People had mixed reactions to the Ice Bar, the main reasons seem to include the ratty fur jackets that they were given to wear, the white cotton gloves that were far from clean and had obviously been worn before and were stained and discoloured but the main concern voiced was that the drinks were served in an ice container like a glass and having drunk the contents the “glass” was taken, stacked and then refilled to be served to another person. It seems very odd to me and not particularly healthy.

 

 

There wasn't much at Lofoten, it was described to me as a a one horse town where the horse had left. Speaking to passengers there seems to be some discontent with the quality of the P&O arranged tours. I think that other than scenery there is little to see and the scenery can be easily seen from the Ship.

 

 

We were delayed sailing as one tour bus broke down and the passengers were transferred to reindeer drawn sleds to get them back. Just kidding, there was a breakdown but they were an hour late under their own steam.

 

 

Today is a sea day and the Internet is still unreliable although we are south of the Arctic, so there is no real reason. The man is working on it and they have promised that tomorrow they will have an engineer fly in to Bergen to fix it, if it is still unresolved.

 

 

We have a Force 3 wind with slight seas so it is a little livelier than it has been. It also gets dark at night till around 4am, so we are certainly heading home. Rats!!!

 

 

The day proved unevenrful but the ship seemed very crowded with all the passengers on board rather than being off on tour, and how they dither. When the lift doors open – they dither getting on or out, as the get to the stairs – they dither, as though some mighty force is going to lift them up and transport them up or down the flight, when ordering coffee, when selecting the correct piece of lettuce in the Conservatory, when choosing a seat in the theatre – they dither. And before you accuse me of ageism, I assure you that this is not an age thing, it is an attitude. Maybe they have never needed to make decisions, I wish they would learn to do so.

 

 

We had a little more sea action with 1.5 meter swells and a force 2/3 blowing but come the afternoon we were back to calm.

 

 

We have just arrived in Bergen and the sky is slightly cloudy but they are thin and seem to be the type that will clear early giving a nice sunny day. I certainly hope so, if only to empty the ship and restore peace.

 

 

more later

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Pugwash as only given us the bare facts, there is no indication to what his state of mind was at that all important first evening meal. I remain firm and true in my belief that one evening meal is not enough to form an opinion.

 

Stopgo, I am perfectly capable of making that assessment within a two hour period, perhaps I am harsh but it is our holiday and the social aspect is very important to us. If every conversation has to be started by you and there is no social intercourse resulting, it ain't rocket science to realise your table companions do not fill our bill of requirements. Our current table companions are responsive witty and good fune and that is what I want and will continue to insist on. I don't apologize for moving because it is my right.

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Stopgo, I am perfectly capable of making that assessment within a two hour period, perhaps I am harsh but it is our holiday and the social aspect is very important to us. If every conversation has to be started by you and there is no social intercourse resulting, it ain't rocket science to realise your table companions do not fill our bill of requirements. Our current table companions are responsive witty and good fune and that is what I want and will continue to insist on. I don't apologize for moving because it is my right.

But Pugwash starting every conversation, is forcing the conversation, you should let it flow naturally, otherwise its like an interrogation.

What was wrong with the first night, with the two couples ? That sounds like your criticsm only in reverse, with you and Mrs P being unresponsive and not trying to make conversation.

Again my opinion is that two hours is not enough to make an assessment on a persons personalty. I think most people are reserved at the start of a holiday, and by the end more outgoing and a lot more sociable.

I also think the dressing for the formal evenings restricts people. I myself have found that people are more relaxed and chatty at breakfast and at lunch and at afternoon tea. Its a lot easier striking up conversations at those times, with fellow passengers that you have never met than on any other occasion.

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Well said Capn!!!

 

A most interesting report, making my daily visit to this forum worthwhile.

Looking forward to the next instalment.

 

How is Artemis looking? She was in need of quite a few gallons of paint when we were on her in February.

She is actually due in my home town on Saturday 15th.

 

Caryl

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But Pugwash starting every conversation, is forcing the conversation, you should let it flow naturally, otherwise its like an interrogation.

What was wrong with the first night, with the two couples ? That sounds like your criticsm only in reverse, with you and Mrs P being unresponsive and not trying to make conversation.

Again my opinion is that two hours is not enough to make an assessment on a persons personalty. I think most people are reserved at the start of a holiday, and by the end more outgoing and a lot more sociable.

I also think the dressing for the formal evenings restricts people. I myself have found that people are more relaxed and chatty at breakfast and at lunch and at afternoon tea. Its a lot easier striking up conversations at those times, with fellow passengers that you have never met than on any other occasion.

 

Were you there? If not, I suggest you leave the OP to make his own decisions about his own holiday. As I said earlier, we did not swop tables on a cruise earlier this year, and by the end of a fortnight fervently wished we had: it was like being a cross between an investigative journalist and a court jester, trying to get anything other than 'yes', 'no' and 'maybe' out of them. For whatever reason, some peope lack social skills...

 

Mary

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Were you there? If not, I suggest you leave the OP to make his own decisions about his own holiday. As I said earlier, we did not swop tables on a cruise earlier this year, and by the end of a fortnight fervently wished we had: it was like being a cross between an investigative journalist and a court jester, trying to get anything other than 'yes', 'no' and 'maybe' out of them. For whatever reason, some peope lack social skills...

 

Mary

I guess that would be the Balmoral, at least you gave it more than two hrs. Its all about being comfortable with your fellow diners, if your not at ease then they won't be ether. I don't like the phrase " lack social skills " it's too judgemental. If somebody wants to swap tables fair enough, I just think two hrs isn't long enough to judge anybody by. The fact that Pugwash swapped three times in five days might say more about him than his fellow diners.

The answer would be to go Freedom Dining, then you can have a different dining companion every night.

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Does anyone else feel like screaming!!!!!!!!!:eek:

 

On our last cruise we gave up going to the restaurant for lunch. The 3 attempts we had left me almost losing the will to live because of the table companions!

One day we went to the Tapas buffet in the other restaurant (not usually used at lunchtime) and we were placed beside 2 other couples who had their plates piled high with a bit of everything off the buffet (hot and cold mixed up). No conversation took place even though we made an attempt at "polite". They were shovelling the food into their mouths as fast as they could - hot sardine heads and all!!! I started feeling unwell and looking at my husband I knew he felt the same so we finished our cold starter plate and said "excuse us please" and got out of there fast.

We then went up to the self-service place to get a main course. We got our food and went round the seated area 3 times but couldn't get a seat -outside was also impossible. By this time our food had gone stone cold and we reluctantly handed our trays over to the waiters who were at the service area. We hate waste, but there was no other option.The officer in charge there just smiled and said "give us a try another day!"

We then tried to get a table at Cafe Jardin but the waiting time for a table was 45 minutes minimum.

Then it was off to the main restaurant for a sit down with 2 other couples. The place was so busy and we had to sit while they had starters. We eventually got our main course and a whole lot of painful conversation and finally got out of there at 2.55pm. I was laughing by this time. Heard of a pub crawl but had never been on a grub crawl!

We made so many friends on that cruise and our dinner companions were the best.

It's just luck who you get to sit beside on a P&O cruise and life is too short to be unhappy. 2 hours a night soon adds up!

Caryl

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I am lying in a darkened room. The medical team should be here shortly to take me away:eek:. I do hope it's not the same team who released our little friend far too early...

 

Mary

It's a really interesting topic, and not something mentioned a great deal. It seems to bring out phobias in certain people on the Messageboard. I must say I am learning something new about Pugwashs character with every post.

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It's a really interesting topic, and not something mentioned a great deal. It seems to bring out phobias in certain people on the Messageboard. I must say I am learning something new about Pugwashs character with every post.

 

Anyone else got the faintest idea what this post means?

 

Sir Martin

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I guess that would be the Balmoral, at least you gave it more than two hrs. Its all about being comfortable with your fellow diners, if your not at ease then they won't be ether. I don't like the phrase " lack social skills " it's too judgemental. If somebody wants to swap tables fair enough, I just think two hrs isn't long enough to judge anybody by. The fact that Pugwash swapped three times in five days might say more about him than his fellow diners.

The answer would be to go Freedom Dining, then you can have a different dining companion every night.

 

 

ummm, but there is no freedom dining on Artemis Stopgo so not really a option, is it ! DOH!:rolleyes:

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LOL!!! I'm sure the good captain will never take a cruise again without taking the advice of stopgo!!

Can't wait till the book is published so we can all get it right - any ideas for the title?

I suggest "Stopgo's Guide to The Perfect Cruise"

Can't you just see the shiny new copies in waterstones!:)

Caryl

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LOL!!! I'm sure the good captain will never take a cruise again without taking the advice of stopgo!!

Can't wait till the book is published so we can all get it right - any ideas for the title?

I suggest "Stopgo's Guide to The Perfect Cruise"

Can't you just see the shiny new copies in waterstones!:)

Caryl

 

 

I'd buy a copy, can you imagine how hilarious it would be?

 

I work for a Publisher, I'll put in a word if you like Mrs. Stopgo!

 

 

:D :D :D :D :D

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There's a lot of interest in this part of the thread, what makes a good dining companion ? when is the right time to swap tables ? is there a way doing it with out appearing rude ? should we make face value judgments ? are regular P.O.s becoming more intolerent.

Yesterday there was over 150 views to this thread from 9-30 to midnight, which was a third more than any other topic. Which tells me that a lot of people are finding this topic and the views posted of great interest.

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LOL!!! I'm sure the good captain will never take a cruise again without taking the advice of stopgo!!

Can't wait till the book is published so we can all get it right - any ideas for the title?

I suggest "Stopgo's Guide to The Perfect Cruise"

Can't you just see the shiny new copies in waterstones!:)

Caryl

 

How I laughed...

 

Mary:)

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Yesterday there was over 150 views to this thread from 9-30 to midnight, which was a third more than any other topic. Which tells me that a lot of people are finding this topic and the views posted of great interest.

 

Did you sit up all evening counting them? Mind boggling.

 

Sir Martin

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