Canon D6, D60, D7, D70 as upgrade from Nikon D5000

Looking to upgrade my Nikon D5000. Slow in taking shots, not great in low light, sometimes refuses to snap at all when focusing. Looking at the Canons. Do not like heavy cameras. I am sall and they pull on my neck. Like the articulating viewfinder. What lens alo? Are the Canon kit lenses as bad as Nikon kit lenses? Thank you everyone!

What are you looking to accomplish? What type of photography? What investment do you already have in Nikon lenses? What are you looking to spend?

Canon vs Nikon is kind of a religious argument, and I'm not convinced it's based in fact anymore. I do own a Canon Rebel, and keep debating on upgrading to either a prosumer or professional series. Maybe one of these days. I'll let someone with specific Nikon experience comment on Nikon.

You've listed a very broad range of cameras. The 6D is one of the current top of the line full frame cameras. Mated with a 24-70 f/2.8 or a 50mm or 85mm f/1.2 lens, you'll get extremely good low light performance. It'll also be amazingly heavy.

The 7D is an APS-C sized professional camera. Low light performance is good, but it's really known for action photography. And it's heavy.

The 60D and 70D are "prosumer" cameras; they're geared towards advanced amateurs and semi-professionals. They are APS-C cameras that are geared a little more to consumer friendly than the professional series. They are probably heavier than your D5000, but I'm not sure.

The 7D, 60D, and 70D will all accept APS-C lenses, which are typically significantly lighter than full frame only lenses. Kit lenses are kit lenses. There's nothing wrong with them, but they don't offer the wider apertures or faster focus you appear to be looking for. BUT, lenses that give you those features tend to be bigger and heavier.

A 60 or 70D paired with a 17-5X f/2.8 from either Canon or Sigma will give you decent low light performance at a reasonable weight. Adding a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 would give you very good low light performance. Adding the equivalent lens to your Nikon may well accomplish the same...

If you want to save weight and form, and are considering changing formats anyway, then you kind of have to cross shop the current crop of mirrorless cameras. The Sony Alpha 7 is a full frame mirrorless camera whose low light performance appears to be excellent. It will be lighter than most DSLRs, depending again on the lens (faster lenses are almost universally heavier than slower lenses). It's also not exactly cheap...

I would really encourage you to go to a full service camera shop and lay out what you want to do. Light weight, fast focusing, and good low light performance is hard to do, and you need to see, feel and touch your options to find what works. You show "New York" as your location; are you in or near NYC? If so, I would highly recommend a trip to B&H after the holidays. They carry all these cameras, and I've always found their staff outstanding.

Good luck!

What do you shoot? Landscapes and such might point towards the 6D. Action might point towards the 7D (older, rumor mill says it's due for replacement soon) or the 70D (newer, has some good features to it). 60D is a no-go in my opinion; it's been replaced by the 70D and was a bit weak on features when it was released.

The 18-200 lens might be a good all-purpose lens, in which case you're limited to the 7D/70D. I've heard reasonably decent things about the SL1 - small and light which are two things I think you're looking for.

Go try them at a nearby store, then tell us what you think after touching them.

There is a way to get the weight off your neck - look back a few posts and there is a discussion of camera straps. I bought the Canon 5d and even with a relatively small telephoto it is heavy. I am not small but I do have a problem with my neck and I thought I had made a huge mistake in buying such a heavy camera. After some online research I bought a Black Rapid strap and that moved the weight to my shoulder - it is very comfortable and allows me to carry binoculars with a neck strap. For me this is a great set up.

I cannot comment on your camera alternatives, but I can tell you I am thrilled with the 5d. In hindsight I think I might have looked at one with wireless built in, as it is an extra and expensive add on for the 5d.

As previously suggested, try out a bunch of them and find one that fits you best. I have huge hands and the 5d just fits best and I can carry it comfortably and securely without any strap attached. or you, it might feel like a big awkward brick.

The D5000 is a fairly old camera, there are much nicer cameras these days, especially when it comes to low-light performance. Unfortunately, Canon cameras, with their smaller sensors, do not tend to have very good low-light performance if you believe DxOMark sensor ratings. The DxOMark ratings consistently rate Canon cameras low light performance below in contrast to Nikon, Sony, and Pentax.

One thing you should know that most of the articulated flip screens on DSLRs result in a higher shutter delay, even if they are not used.

For example, Nikon's D3200 has a 0.12sec delay when in continuous shutter mode (typically used in sports and action photography), while the D5000 has a 0.25sec delay when the flip screen is not used, and a delay greater than 1sec when it is used.

The thing is, you should really avoid using the articulated screen in most cases.

1. the articulated screen promotes poor camera handling, which invariably results in blurry photos. You simply cannot hold the camera steady enough to get good results that way.

2. Using the flip screen (aka live view) adds over 1 sec delay in your shutter. If you can learn to use the camera without the flip screen, you will find the camera responds much faster. Consequently, using the flip screen is all but worthless for action and sports photography. This is true regardless of camera brand.

3. Flip screens eat batteries at a high rate. You will probably only get half the photos per charge when using live view and the flip screen.

4. Depending on the weather, you may have a tough time even seeing or composing your subject, depending on how bright the sun is.

5. Overuse of the flip screen will prematurely wear out your camera.

You should only use the flip screen/live view during video use or when the camera is on a tripod. If you are using it more than that, learn how to hold the camera by looking through the viewfinder. It will result in better (blur free) photos, a faster responding camera, etc.

I will guess that 90% of your dissatisfaction with the D5000 is over use of the flip screen. The reason most DSLRs do not have flip screens is that they are as much of a problem as a benefit.

The 18-55mm "kit" lens that comes with the D500 is no worse or better than Canon's entry level lens. I would not go so far as to call them bad, but there are better lenses available, such as the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. Neither Nikon or Canon make a lot of good APS-C lenses.

If you go to a website such as http://www.imaging-resource.com, which tests shutter lags among other things, you will find that the flip screens on all brands of DSLRs have the most shutter delay - even when they are not used. This is probably because they are optimized for video use, so in my view, that is an unacceptable compromise as you are losing action and sports performance. I would never own a DSLR with a flip screen.

Thank you everyone for such helpful input! I rarely use the live screen except to get into angles that I cannot see with the eyepiece. It does come in handy sometimes.

I will go into my local camera shop and look at all of them. I thought that with deep pre holiday discounts I could pick up a deal, but I should ave done my homework earlier. Oh well.

I take mostly landscapes on excursions, and also people. The low lights inside restaurants and buildings result in disappointing shots. The ships lighting is also problematic.

Have a wonderful holiday everyone!

I will go into my local camera shop and look at all of them. I thought that with deep pre holiday discounts I could pick up a deal, but I should ave done my homework earlier. Oh well.

 

I take mostly landscapes on excursions, and also people. The low lights inside restaurants and buildings result in disappointing shots. The ships lighting is also problematic.

 

Have a wonderful holiday everyone!

I've read in several places discussing holiday shopping that this is not the best time to shop for cameras, that there are better discounts early in the year after some big trade show (sorry, I forgot the name).

Also, and I apologize for asking this of you --- but when you are shooting indoors in low light, are you increasing your ISO? I have a Nikon D7000 and a D5100, and they do amazingly well in low light with high ISOs. Also on ships.

Ypu might consider looking at the Sony NEX cameras.

I had Nikons for a long while until age and the weight on my neck was getting too much.

Dave Pierce has a nice critique on the NEX camera(s) on his web page.

I've read in several places discussing holiday shopping that this is not the best time to shop for cameras, that there are better discounts early in the year after some big trade show (sorry, I forgot the name).

 

Also, and I apologize for asking this of you --- but when you are shooting indoors in low light, are you increasing your ISO? I have a Nikon D7000 and a D5100, and they do amazingly well in low light with high ISOs. Also on ships.

Yes, I ratchet up the ISO! I am going to handle each camera in the shop and check them out. I also will look at the four thirds mirror less camera. I know Olympus has a nice one. Soooo many choices, but I want to spend well. No sense in buying what I can get with my own camera, photo-wise.

If weight is an issue, I would seriously consider a mirrorless system. They are smaller & lighter than the entry level DSLRs. I'm a Nikon shooter & currently am using a D7000 & D90 & am very happy with them. Also, if you are considering another DSLR, you may want to consider an external flash unit & some fast lenses since you are shooting in low light situations. Kit lenses are pretty much the same regardless of manufacturer. The on camera flash isn't the greatest, it gets the job done but an external unit is much better & can be tilted & swiveled for bounce flash. Cranking up the ISO will eventually introduce noise at some point regardless of camera system. Although the newer cameras handle high ISO better, they still have their limits.

Also, the camera straps that are provided with the cameras tend to be extremely uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time. If you feel it's hurting your neck, consider purchasing a better strap. There are many available that are quite comfortable. I'm currently using a sling strap from Op/Tech & find it quite comfortable even on day long hikes with my heaviest lens attached to my camera.

I'm quite pleased with my new 70D, particularly the new servo system for dynamic focusing video (old eyes...).

I also had extremely good luck with the Speedlite 320EX working wireless remote off of the 70D aboard ship. I park it in a corner (has a little stand) and bounce light off of the wall. I really wanted it for sidelighting bronze friezes on the QM for best detail. The shots we brought back last time were with the built-in flash and just didn't do the bronze justice.

Also, the SCN setting on the 70D for Handheld Night worked wonders in no flash zones, like the Vatican museum on the last cruise. The 70D fires off 4 shots at the same settings and combines them like an HDR, but without the exposure differences. It pulled amazing detail out of some really dim scenes. In fact, our interior shots in Pompeii showed detail that were not really visible to the naked eye.

I imagine other systems have a similar setting.

If you're invested in Nikon, will the lenses, filters and such transfer over?

I also have the Canon GPS unit for the 70D. It proved unexpectedly useful in reviewing the pix from our Med cruise when that "if this is Thursday, this must be Athens" fatigue sets in (where in Rome was that statue?).

Flickr and other photo sharing sites will import the GPS info with your pix and place them on a map. You can also export to Google Earth. It will also map your route, if you turn it on. Great for the Amalfi Coast tour we did.

I wish GPS were built into the camera. Way more useful than the included "wifi" in the 70D. Not only details where you are, but also in which direction you are shooting.

BTW i retrofitted a PacSafe 100 strap for the camera. Has SS cable sewn into the strap and sleeves protecting the strap connectors. It was long enough I wore the camera slung across my chest, which reduced the strain of carrying it considerably.

you are saying the 5000 is bad and you are using a kit lens? a camera is only as good as the lens that's in front of it. buy a fast lens. Your low light shots are disappointing because that 18-55 isn't fast. m4/3 will not solve the picture issue either, with their small sensor.

Upgrade or change?

Upgrade decision will be based on how much you have invested in Nikon mount glass and what you are missing.

1) Slow to take shots? Is this on time to focus/shoot, focus delay, or low light slow to focus, or shot to shot? Unless you upgrade to the top of the line Canon / Nikon and the fastest 2.8 lenses you will likely not see a measurably improvement for any of the listed issues. You could downsize to a Nikon 1 which is small and has the fastest focus of the mirrorless and very fast FPS, but come with some ergo/setting and other issues.

2) Refuse to shoot, have to say that is likely a user issue and changing from Nikon to Canon won't fix that. What situation is it not focusing? One think you can change in the setting is from focus priority to release priority. Often failure to shoot is determined by locking focus and having a slow consumer lense in low light will cause that. Again, only way to fix that is go very high end DSLR and fast 2.8 lense = $$$$ and lbs around the neck.

3) Not great in low light, then you need to stay with Nikon. The very best dynamic range resides in the D4, D800, D600 sensors at the moment with the 1DMKx behind it. Again size matters for low light high ISO and that comes with big sensors. No question if you upgrade to either the latest Nikon or Canon you will see improvement here over the d5000. But again, only if you are already shooting fast 2.8 zooms or primes. If you are using variable aperture consumer zooms you will be better off buy a nice 35 and 50 1.8 lense

Happy shopping/shooting

Looking to upgrade my Nikon D5000. Slow in taking shots, not great in low light, sometimes refuses to snap at all when focusing. Looking at the Canons. Do not like heavy cameras. I am sall and they pull on my neck. Like the articulating viewfinder. What lens alo? Are the Canon kit lenses as bad as Nikon kit lenses? Thank you everyone!

Based on what you are wanting (or what I perceive as what you are wanting), I think the Canon 6D is a strong contender. Its excellent in low light and light weight (body wise...I think the kit lens is a bit heavy though).

http://intothenightphoto.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-canon-6d-is-low-light-winner.html

The kit lens that comes with it is good.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/24-105mm.htm

The D5000 is a fairly old camera, there are much nicer cameras these days, especially when it comes to low-light performance. Unfortunately, Canon cameras, with their smaller sensors, do not tend to have very good low-light performance if you believe DxOMark sensor ratings. The DxOMark ratings consistently rate Canon cameras low light performance below in contrast to Nikon, Sony, and Pentax.

 

One thing you should know that most of the articulated flip screens on DSLRs result in a higher shutter delay, even if they are not used.

 

For example, Nikon's D3200 has a 0.12sec delay when in continuous shutter mode (typically used in sports and action photography), while the D5000 has a 0.25sec delay when the flip screen is not used, and a delay greater than 1sec when it is used.

 

The thing is, you should really avoid using the articulated screen in most cases.

 

1. the articulated screen promotes poor camera handling, which invariably results in blurry photos. You simply cannot hold the camera steady enough to get good results that way.

 

2. Using the flip screen (aka live view) adds over 1 sec delay in your shutter. If you can learn to use the camera without the flip screen, you will find the camera responds much faster. Consequently, using the flip screen is all but worthless for action and sports photography. This is true regardless of camera brand.

 

3. Flip screens eat batteries at a high rate. You will probably only get half the photos per charge when using live view and the flip screen.

 

4. Depending on the weather, you may have a tough time even seeing or composing your subject, depending on how bright the sun is.

 

5. Overuse of the flip screen will prematurely wear out your camera.

 

You should only use the flip screen/live view during video use or when the camera is on a tripod. If you are using it more than that, learn how to hold the camera by looking through the viewfinder. It will result in better (blur free) photos, a faster responding camera, etc.

 

I will guess that 90% of your dissatisfaction with the D5000 is over use of the flip screen. The reason most DSLRs do not have flip screens is that they are as much of a problem as a benefit.

 

The 18-55mm "kit" lens that comes with the D500 is no worse or better than Canon's entry level lens. I would not go so far as to call them bad, but there are better lenses available, such as the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. Neither Nikon or Canon make a lot of good APS-C lenses.

 

If you go to a website such as http://www.imaging-resource.com, which tests shutter lags among other things, you will find that the flip screens on all brands of DSLRs have the most shutter delay - even when they are not used. This is probably because they are optimized for video use, so in my view, that is an unacceptable compromise as you are losing action and sports performance. I would never own a DSLR with a flip screen.

I think you mean touch screen. A flip screen does nothing different than a regular screen. I have a 60d and it has the exact same sensor as the 7d but the ability to rotate the screen allows me to take better macro shots. There is no lag or anything due to the screen being opened, closed, rotated or anything like that. Now a touch screen DSLR does lag if using live view but I don't know too many DSLR shooters that use live view instead of the viewfinder (I only use it on very hard to focus macro shots). If you're using live view you might as well get a micro 4/3s set up.

Now a touch screen DSLR does lag if using live view but I don't know too many DSLR shooters that use live view instead of the viewfinder (I only use it on very hard to focus macro shots). If you're using live view you might as well get a micro 4/3s set up.

Worth mentioning that the one exception to that rule has always been Sony DSLRs and SLT cameras...their live view and viewfinder shooting performance is the same, no lag, no delay, no difference. They're the only one that actually could be used for an action sequence, as they still function in full dedicated phase-detect autofocus and can shoot up to 7-10fps in live view mode. And all have tilting LCDs, going all the way back to the A300.

Otherwise, as mentioned, mirrorless cameras (M4:3, or NEX and other APS-C sensors) are designed to function in full-time live view mode, whether you're looking through the viewfinder or the LCD - so they would be identical in either mode.

I think you mean touch screen.

No, I mean flip screen. When you use the flip screen as opposed to using the viewfinder, you are also using live view. Live view is actually the main culprit as that adds 1 second to the delay in taking the photo.

However, if you look at the http://www.imaging-resource.com website - that tests things such as shutter delay - you will also find that most cameras with flip screens also have longer shutter delays than those cameras without them. The differences may only be 0.1sec, but it is pretty consistent that the delays are longer.

Therefore, I can only conclude that those cameras with flip screens are optimized for live-view, etc.

Worth mentioning that the one exception to that rule has always been Sony DSLRs and SLT cameras...their live view and viewfinder shooting performance is the same, no lag, no delay, no difference.

Ummm...

According to http://www.imaging-resource.com testing, even Sony's flagship A7R has a significant shutter delay, in the 0.360sec range, which is mediocre for a DSLR. Virtually all of the Nikon DSLRs have significantly less delays, down to 0.045sec for the high-end cameras.

Quoting from http://www.imaging-resource.com:

The Sony A7R's full-autofocus shutter lag (with the subject at a fixed distance) was 0.359 second in Single-area AF mode. This increased slightly to 0.362 second in Multi-area AF mode. That's quite a bit slower than the average pro DSLR and even slower than most consumer DSLRs, but only slightly slower than most CSCs.

While the live view of 0.360sec is significantly better than live view of other DSLRs, the overall 0.360sec shutter delay is unimpressive when compared to other cameras using the viewfinder.

Don't take my word for it - look it up here: http://www.imaging-resource.com/camera-reviews/sony/a7r/sony-a7rA6.HTM

Shutter delay is an often overlooked parameter for a DSLR as most people feel they are an improvement, but they are not. There are compact cameras that are faster than 0.360sec.

I thought I was going to upgrade my 2006 8MP Rebel XT to the Canon 60D. I had been eyeing the Canon 60D.....

that is, until the world's lightest compact DSLR was released! - Canon's SL1.

I think I am in love! Uses any of Canon's lenses.

Oh, how I wish everyone would agree on the BEST camera...oh well, (sigh), I am going to wait and try out several from my local shop and keep reading. Thank you thank you everyone!

The BEST cameras cost $3,000.

Next best option is the "best" camera for YOUR preferences.

for me, that would have been the 60D, but then I realized that I use my iphone for everyday pics with friends, and would love to use my DSLR more, but its so big, heavy and bulky.

I went to costo and felt the weight of the 60D and the SL1 and decided on sl1.

as far as I was concerned ANYTHING was an upgrade from my 2006 Rebel XT 8MP :D:D:D

Ummm...

 

According to http://www.imaging-resource.com testing, even Sony's flagship A7R has a significant shutter delay, in the 0.360sec range, which is mediocre for a DSLR. Virtually all of the Nikon DSLRs have significantly less delays, down to 0.045sec for the high-end cameras.

Also Ummm...you may want to note that the A7 and A7R are MIRRORLESS cameras, not DSLRs or SLT models. They use a different focus system, and the A7R even has a double-shutter actuation with no electronic first-curtain shutter, like other NEX models have...making it slower on shutter lag. The A7R is not designed to be a sports/action camera - but more likely with its full-frame sensor and huge resolution a landscape or portrait camera.

What I'm referring to are the Sony Alpha SLT models (which are essentially like DSLRs, except the mirror is fixed in place and partially transparent - but otherwise use the same type of shutter mechanism and PDAF focus array) and Sony's traditional DSLR models (which are no longer in production). All of Sony's APS-C Alpha body DSLR and SLT models can operate in live view mode with no additional lag or delay compared to viewfinder mode. There is no longer focusing either - they use the same PDAF array, not contrast-detection like many DSLRs, and don't have to flip the mirror down to focus, then back up again as most DSLRs do. So the combination of no focus delay, plus no additional shutter lag, make these Sony models significantly faster than other DSLRs in live view mode. I shoot with a Sony A580 DSLR - a true, optical viewfinder, DSLR model...and I can switch to live view, focus AND TRACK in PDAF with dedicated sensors, press the shutter and get one, fast, single click with no lag, and can even shoot up to 7FPS while operating in live view, for over 60 frames. It is a fact that no other DSLR can replicate that in live view. The SLT models do it differently, with the mirror permanently fixed in place and partially transparent, so light can always be routed to the live view display AND the dedicated PDAF focus sensors - allowing both to be in use full-time. I personally prefer the DSLRs, as I like optical viewfinders...Sony's unique approach was to utilize a separate smaller sensor whose job is to deliver the live view when the optical finder was not being used - obviating the need to send the light signal to the main sensor and therefore not requiring the mirror to flip up out of the way, and allowing light to continue to direct to the dedicated PDAF sensors.

Not even mirrorless models can do that - full, dedicated PDAF sensor focusing, with full-speed subject tracking in AF-C mode, while firing bursts, with no shutter lag or delay. DSLRs, in order to work in live view mode, have not only the shutter delay, but one also must factor in the FOCUS delay - until quite recently, the only solutions were to focus in CDAF mode off the main sensor, which was painfully slow on a DSLR with non-optimized lenses for CDAF...or having the mirror flip back down so the light could be directed to the PDAF array, focus, then move the mirror back up...the LCD blacked out during the operation, which usually took several seconds. Even now, with Canon using an on-sensor PDAF to focus in live view mode, which has reduced the need for mirror flipping and improved on CDAF focusing times, it still hasn't quite matched the speed of a DSLR using dedicated PDAF focus array without mirror movements, nor the ability to track focus on a moving target as well as dedicated PDAF focus sensors can. As yet, Sony was the only manufacturer making larger DSLR style bodies with mirrors capable of operating no differently in live view or viewfinder mode, continuing to utilize the PDAF sensors even when using live view.

BTW - I love my mirrorless camera - but I still shoot with a DSLR because I still need the speed advantage with moving subjects combined with the resolution and low light capability of an APS-C sensor. I will have a hard time replacing my DSLR specifically because of its very unique live view capabilities, which can come in handy when shooting at odd angles and in obstructed situations.

At risk of going off in a tangent about shutter lag, I will concede that cameras such as the A77 have a better "live view" shutter delay than cameras such as the A7R - but there is still a considerable shutter delay in DSLR terms (0.122 sec in continuous AF mode for the A77). And for some reason the A99 has an even slower 0.153sec lag in continuous AF mode. There is no such thing as zero shutter delay.

The best DSLRs are well under 0.1sec, and some cameras, such as the Nikon D4 are around 0.043sec.

Again, if you consider a 90mph fastball travels 13ft in 0.1sec, you want a low shutter lag camera for sports and action photography.

Not to belabor the point, but these days, shutter lags are generally overlooked when people are in the market to buy a DSLR. Manufacturers don't make it any easier as they rarely - if ever - publish shutter lag data.

The old notion that ALL DSLRs have improved shutter delay is not as true as it once was. Due to the cut-throat competition in the DSLR market, the performance of cameras - especially in the entry level segment - has gone down as manufacturers try to obtain a certain price-point.

True, Sony DSLRs have significantly less lag than traditional DSLRs when used in live view mode, but it is a moot point as in my view, you should not be using live view for anything but video anyway - and especially not for sports or action; you cannot possibly hold a DSLR at arm's length and not introduce significant camera shake.

The point I am really trying to make - and forgive me if I tend to waver - is that ALL cameras have some shutter delay, whether it be mirrorless, mirrored DSLR, transparent mirror or some other kind of thing. When shopping for a camera, if sports and action photography is important, those cameras with delays under 0.100sec should be considered best.

Oh, by the way, most DSLRs (at least Nikons) use phase detection focusing. Compact cameas typically use contrast detection. My D7100 for instance uses the Multi-CAM 3500FX phase detection focus module (same one as used in the D4 and D800).

Some cameras, such as the Nikon 1 series use a combination hybrid phase/contrast detection, which seems to give them an advantage.

The BEST cameras cost $3,000.

I did a search on Amazon and currently no camera of any type lists or retails for exactly $3000...;) There's a listing for a grey market D800 body only for a very close $2999 but without a lens, it's not much use.

I guess my point is, "best" for what? The best compact pocketable? The best landscape camera? Action shooter? Waterproof? For some people, the "best" camera is the one they got in their phone when they plunked down $49 with a 2-year contract with Verizon.

Buying a type of camera because it supposedly takes the best pictures or one brand over another because a celebrity endorses it or someone said it's a better "investment" is silly. Ashton Kutcher does Nikon 1 series commercials and Taylor Swift does Sony NEX. Since Taylor has over twice as many Twitter followers as Ashton, the choice of the best camera is clear! :rolleyes:

Camera shoppers should do some research, ask questions and if possible, get a hands-on moment with the camera before buying it. The "best" camera is the one that you will use to take the pictures you want to take. A $200 camera in the hand trumps a $3000 camera in the closet any day.

That's my rant for the year. Got it out of the way early. No more from me. Probably.

Dave