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5/22-6/1 Alaska Cruise (Radiance) & Land Tour, LOTS of Photos (L.J. & Bev Part II/I)


WalleyeLJ
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So, it turns out that the radio call was letting Capt. Harv know that back towards the area we watched the Orcas earlier, there was a frisky Humpback that was putting on an aerial show, breaching repeatedly. Capt. Harv said it had been going on for some time, and that the show could stop before we even got there, but that if we wanted we could take a run down and see, but that we wouldn’t have time to do that AND run back up in the other direction to see the Sea Lions. We took a vote and headed for the breaching whale, crossing our fingers and hoping the show would go on! 10 minutes or so later we came up on a small group of whale watching boats, and low and behold, the energetic whale was breaching and rolling and splashing away – it was awesome! Who knows how long the whale had been active, but it must have breached another 7 or 8 times after we got there – and I would have been thrilled if we’d just been able to see one! Clouds had rolled in pretty thick, and there was just a little bit more of a chop on the water. Coupled with having no idea where exactly from the water the whale would erupt, for all the show the whale put on, I was only able to get one breach sequence in focus, but it turned out pretty well!

 

 

The takeoff

 

 

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Perfect form!

 

 

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Nailed the landing – 10.0!!!

 

 

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Unfortunately, time was up and we had to head back to Auke Bay. But it was an amazing day by any measure, and as sad as we were to go, we were looking forward to our next adventure. One nice thing with Harv & Marv is that they do a swing by Mendenhall Glacier on their return trips to the cruise pier if you want. They’ll spend 10-15 minutes there if you just want a quick look and then finish the run back into Juneau, or you can stay longer if you want and make your way back on one of the shuttle buses. We were planning on spending some time there and taking one of the shuttles back so we didn’t have rush – it was going to be our first glacier viewing! Before we headed up to the van, we grabbed a quick photo with Capt. Harv. We had such a great experience with them that on our return trip in 2012 we went out with them twice!

 

 

 

Bev & I and Capt. Harv

 

 

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L.J.

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Mendenhall Glacier was a neat experience. We got dropped off in the parking lot closest to the glacier, and it’s pretty much in sight as soon as you step on the path towards the Visitors Center and the walking, hiking and viewing trails. There are ADA accessible options for viewing the glacier, helping support its claim as one of the most accessible in all of Alaska. While it is located across Mendenhall Lake, it’s an impressive sight, rising hundreds of feet from the lake back into the Juneau ice field. Icebergs do the lake as they calve off the face of the glacier, and there is a nearly constant drone of helicopters flying from Juneau up over Mendenhall into the ice field and back, ferrying visitors on glacier and hike and dog sledding tours. It’s a busy place, at least around the main access points, as buses of visitor’s cycle in and out at a decent clip. That said, there’s plenty of room to navigate and the main trails from the parking area have plenty of room. If you pass on the Visitor’s Center, there are interpretive signs along the trails that give a good overview of the glacier, how it’s formed, the impacts on the surrounding landscape, etc. Here’s a few shots traveling from the parking lot out to photo point.

 

 

 

The edge of the parking area looking towards Mendenhall Glacier

 

 

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Heading down the trail towards Photo Point

 

 

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Main points of interest map

 

 

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Taking the off road beach path out to Photo Point

 

 

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One of the education stations along the trails

 

 

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Looking back from Photo Point along the paved access path to the Visitors Center

 

 

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L.J.

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Mendenhall’s got a lot of things to see and do if you have the time and you’re interested. We only spent an hour or so there, but we could have spent a lot longer. There are many trails to try out, some which go high into the hills above, some which continue out at lake level to other areas like Nugget Falls, a huge waterfall tumbling out of the mountains off to the right side of the face of the glacier and into the lake. There are also a number of excursions that take place on Mendenhall Lake such as kayaking and canoeing. Here are a few shots of these options.

 

 

 

The face of Mendenhall Glacier

 

 

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A couple shots of Nugget Falls – look how tiny all the people look!

 

 

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Kayaking Mendenhall Lake

 

 

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Check out the traditional canoe excursion set against the face of the glacier (lower left)

 

 

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Iceberg – dead ahead!!! Alaska – everything seem to have a sense of scale!

 

 

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We wanted to spend some time in downtown Juneau before we had to leave, so we walked back up to the parking area, found where the shuttle bus stop was, and waited for the next shuttle. 20 minutes or so later, the bus came by, we hopped on, and made our way back to the cruise pier.

 

 

 

L.J.

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LJ and Bev,

 

WOW! You guys are the best! Thank you for your awesome reviews. I enjoyed every minute I spent today reading about both your 2009 and 2012 adventures. Loved all your photos, but especially the ones of the bears, the breaching humpback, and the eagle catching the salmon.

 

Wife and I and possibly another couple will be going to Alaska next year, June or July. I'm planning a cruise and land tour. Your reviews have helped me immensely by giving me great ideas of what to do. Thank you so very much! :D

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Thanks! I feel bad about having left this thread hanging so long. My shoulder actually started bothering me last spring well before I hurt the knee, but once I did that, the knee took priority. I have some bone spurs and arthritis to take care of, but the two biggest issues are a small rotator cuff tear, and a partially tear of one of my right bicep tendons where it attaches into the shoulder joint:eek::(. So once the surgery happens, I'll likely be limited on being able to even move it enough to work on a keyboard for the first few weeks from what I understand (never mind take photos for a couple three months). So I figured I need to get cracking before if was 6 months between posts:D!

 

L.J.

 

Sorry about the shoulder! But I benefitted from the delay - because you started posting again in 2014 I was able to find both of your trip reports - amazing photos!! I read the 2012 one first - it matches our Southbound itinerary. Makes me very excited to be going in 3 months.

 

Thanks so much for all the details and commentary - and for being so patient with other posters....I really had to laugh at how many times you had to answer the camera/gear/lenses question!:D

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By this time we were starved! Since I’m not a seafood person (love to catch it just not eat it), we wanted to check out the Red Dog Saloon. We had meet up with Ellie, one of our CC members from the M&M and we all had lunch together. The Red Dog Saloon has been a fixture in Juneau since the gold rush days, and the interior of the saloon is like a time capsule of Juneau & Alaska, filled with furs, mounts, and all sorts of historic items. One of the cool things about it is that the entire place is covered in notes, messages and “we were here!” notes all over every surface of the saloon. After a bit of a wait we were seated upstairs. We couldn’t find any room left on the wooden beams and walls, we left our mark on one of the metal lamp shades/reflectors!

 

 

 

A line out the door – usually a good sign!

 

 

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The view of the main floor form the 2nd floor loft

 

 

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Bev & Ellie at our little table

 

 

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One last look at the Red Dog!

 

 

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Yes, many may consider it a tourist trap, but that was half the fun, plus our burgers were terrific! Once fed, we worked our way back to Radiance, checking out a few shops along the way. Juneau was a long port day (which was great), so we got back on the ship around 5pm, napped for about an hour and headed back out to explore downtown a little more. I’m always on the hunt for fun t-shirts, and we wanted to grab some snacks for our ride up into the Yukon the next day in Skagway. Back on board, we made it through dinner, skipped the shows, and headed to the room to get some sleep for the next big adventure!

 

 

 

A bit of downtown Juneau

 

 

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Our little buddy waiting for us back in the room!

 

 

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Next stop – Skagway!

 

 

 

L.J.

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Just what I need for my July 6th Northbound sail on Ncl Sun. Planning to reach Seattle 3rd night, spend a day there and next two and half in Vancouver before cruise. Looks like I can follow your trail most of the time:-). Looking forward to reading more and noting your photography skills. It's a lovely hobby that makes any vacations lot more fun.

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LJ and Bev,

 

WOW! You guys are the best! Thank you for your awesome reviews. I enjoyed every minute I spent today reading about both your 2009 and 2012 adventures. Loved all your photos, but especially the ones of the bears, the breaching humpback, and the eagle catching the salmon.

 

Wife and I and possibly another couple will be going to Alaska next year, June or July. I'm planning a cruise and land tour. Your reviews have helped me immensely by giving me great ideas of what to do. Thank you so very much! :D

 

RoobyDoo - GREAT name! Will this be your first trip to Alaska? If so you're in for a treat, whatever you choose to do. I had a blast reading other folks reviews like this, and got a lot of great ideas from them - I'm glad you've enjoyed ours as well. It's great you'll be adding some land touring time on in addition to the cruise itself. We've loved our adventures in both parts of Alaska - and they each offer plenty of different things to do and see - have fun and soak it all in!!!

 

L.J.

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Thanks LJ and Bev for your time .

 

I am extra excited for my July cruise. What size telephoto lens do you use? Your pics are awesome!

 

 

Laura

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Laura - it's our pleasure - it's fun to share our wonderful times in Alaska. AS for the photos, most of my shots in this review were taken with a Canon 50D DSLR and a Canone 100-400mm L IS (image stabilized) lens. The bear photos in our 2012 review were taken with a Sigma 150-500mm, and a Canon 70-200 f2/8 IS L lens for the closer shots of the bears and the eagle fishing. The rest of the mid range shots on both trips were taken with a Canon 18-200mm IS lens - my main workhorse for regular landscape and people shots. Hope that helps!

 

L.J.

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Laura - it's our pleasure - it's fun to share our wonderful times in Alaska. AS for the photos, most of my shots in this review were taken with a Canon 50D DSLR and a Canone 100-400mm L IS (image stabilized) lens. The bear photos in our 2012 review were taken with a Sigma 150-500mm, and a Canon 70-200 f2/8 IS L lens for the closer shots of the bears and the eagle fishing. The rest of the mid range shots on both trips were taken with a Canon 18-200mm IS lens - my main workhorse for regular landscape and people shots. Hope that helps!

 

 

 

L.J.

 

 

Thanks so much, for answering another/same camera question! While reading your first review/second trip I found that you answered this several times. I also found that on several posts the camera talk was way over my head! I have the entry level CanonDSLR T1i and have a telephoto lens think it's 55 -150....was just wondering how to mange as I don't want to be switching lens all the time. Guess I will have to decide based on the excursion which lens goes on the camera and stick to it! We will also have a point and shoot with us.

 

Thanks again!

 

OMG! The Orcas....incredible!

 

 

Laura

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Sorry about the shoulder! But I benefitted from the delay - because you started posting again in 2014 I was able to find both of your trip reports - amazing photos!! I read the 2012 one first - it matches our Southbound itinerary. Makes me very excited to be going in 3 months.

 

Thanks so much for all the details and commentary - and for being so patient with other posters....I really had to laugh at how many times you had to answer the camera/gear/lenses question!:D

 

Linda,

 

I hope you all have a wonderful time! We have to wait until next year for your next journey north, so we'll be living through you all this year:D. I love answering the questions - camera or otherwise - as often as I can if it's of help to others.

 

L.J.

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Linda,

 

I hope you all have a wonderful time! We have to wait until next year for your next journey north, so we'll be living through you all this year:D. I love answering the questions - camera or otherwise - as often as I can if it's of help to others.

 

L.J.

 

Really looking forward to our trip. And thank you for being so helpful. It was just a little funny reading the older thread straight through...

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Just found this thread - what a find! My husband and I are considering a trip to Alaska; your photos and commentary are making our decision much easier! Looking forward to more... :)

 

Thanks Michele - hopefully you all are leaning towards going - odds are you'll love it!

 

L.J.

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Just what I need for my July 6th Northbound sail on Ncl Sun. Planning to reach Seattle 3rd night, spend a day there and next two and half in Vancouver before cruise. Looks like I can follow your trail most of the time:-). Looking forward to reading more and noting your photography skills. It's a lovely hobby that makes any vacations lot more fun.

 

kitsVA,

 

It sounds like you've got a great trip set up! We loved Seattle and could have easily spent more time there, but at least we did get to see some of it. We've now been to Vancouver twice, and scheduling just didn't allow for us to explore the city at all either time. I know most folks love Vancouver, and I hope we get to return again and have a few days like you have to really get out and see the sights. We'd love see you your review when you get back! As for the photography, I do have to remind myself to get out from behind the camera and just enjoy the moment sometimes, but the moments captured also let me more clearly relieve the fun adventures we've been on - I only wish I'd started sooner:).

 

L.J.

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This morning brought low, thick clouds and dampness. It had rained overnight and it still showed on the decks and railings of the ship. Plus, the air was still heavy with moisture and the promise of more rain to come today. Nonetheless, it couldn’t dampen the excitement for today’s adventure – a drive out to Emerald Lake and some horseback riding in the Yukon! As usual it was quiet and I was alone out on deck – actually pretty much completely alone. I felt like to only person on the whole ship for a while! I think we were now a few days into the cruise, and with such along port stay the day before in Juneau, and a gray sky morning, folks were sleeping in. I, however, coffee in one hand and camera in the other, enjoyed out troll northwest along the fjord known as the Lynn Canal – the gateway to Skagway and the Alaskan gold rush. Watching the towering mountains and tumbling waterfalls as we eased up towards Skagway, it was cool to think that the views I had that morning were essentially identical to the ones that the folks seeking their fortune on steamboats over a hundred years ago saw.

 

No significant wildlife sightings were in cards this morning, but plenty of geology topography. One of the neat things this morning brought was a spot off the starboard side where a decent sized river was rushing out of the mountains and emptying into the Lynn Canal. The Lynn Canal was filled with dark, dense sea water, and where the glacially fed fresh water met with the sea, there was a clear demarcation between the coffee and cream colored freshwater, and the dark blue/green sea water. You could see a clear separation as the two water sources did not readily mix together right away, which was an interesting thing to see.

 

Waterfalls were everywhere as well. Similar to the run into Juneau, they slid down the nearly vertical faces of the mountains lining the fjord, crashing into the sea below. Whereas the majority of waterfalls were on the starboard/right side of the ship heading into Juneau, this morning they were predominantly found on the port/left side of the ship. Some long and thread like Juneau, but some were noticeably bigger and more powerful. I love taking photos of waterfalls when I can, especially when I can set up a tripod and do a long exposure to get the wispy cotton candy look, but that would work so we on a moving ship. I’m not sure what it is about waterfalls, but I love them – they’re both primeval and wild, and yet relaxing and calming. I can just sit and watch and listen to them for seemingly ever. No such luxury this morning, but I did get to see a lot of the tumbling down for parts unknown above!

 

 

 

The early morning view off the fantail on Deck 11- thick clouds, cool temps and rain – the order of the day along the coast

 

 

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Two worlds colliding – glacially fed, silty freshwater from the surrounding mountains meets the dark, cool seawater of the Lynn Canal

 

 

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Four on my favorite waterfalls from the morning (all on the port/left side) heading into Skagway

 

 

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Before long, it was time to head down and grab some breakfast so I could get off the ship quick and make the run to the Avis office to pick up our rental car for our run into the Yukon…

 

 

 

L.J.

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So, ahead of schedule for once, I was able to grab a few photos as we pulled into Skagway before getting off the ship. Skagway is what you would call the end of the line. The Lynn Canal terminates here, with the small town of Skagway wedged in between the mountains looming above. With a population listed under 900, it’s not very big, but the town is laid out in an easy to navigate grid. For arriving ships, there are four main docks. When arriving in Skagway, the docks, from left to right, are the Ore Dock, Broadway Dock, the Ferry Dock (for the Alaska Marine Highway System ferries), and the Railroad Dock. We ended up berthing at Ore Dock. It was a nice spot for the first visit because we could see all of the harbor and downtown off the front and right of the ship, and the Temsco heliport on the left side of town right down by the water. For folks who didn’t go glacier trekking in Juneau, the heliport offers another opportunity to get up into the Juneau Ice Field from another direction. The big attraction for many visitors to Skagway is the White Pass & Yukon railroad. They have trips of varying lengths up into gold rush country, including train only and train and bus or van combo trips (take the train up into the Yukon and the roadway back, or vice versa). They make it super convenient for cruise ship passengers as there are rail line spurs leading to all three main cruise ship docks, so as soon as you get off the ship, you can get on the train. It’s nice if mobility is a concern.

 

Today, however, we were passing up on this classic excursion to take the drive out pass Carcross in Canada’s Yukon Territory to Emerald Lake for a horseback riding adventure at Emerald Lake Ranch. The Avis rental office is only a few blocks into town – but the walk from the cruise dock into town took a bit longer than I anticipated – remember that when you’re trying to squeeze in some last minutes shopping before leaving town (more on that at the end of the day)! One of the things I learned when researching what to do in Skagway and then booking with Avis was that many of the discount codes and coupons that work for other Avis locations will likely not work for or be honored in Skagway. Make sure you double check your rate and that you’re happy with it. Despite clearly finding that in my pre trip research, a few people were unhappy this morning because they didn’t get the cost break they thought they would. Also, while I’m not an early riser at home, I seem to be on vacation, and it often pays off. In this case I we were due into port at 7:30am, and I was off the ship by 7:40am to go get the car. I was one of the first two people in line, and it was a good thing because it’s a small office (1-2 people), and there was a pretty good line by the time the office opened. I got in, got the car, and headed back to pick Bev up near the Ore Dock, and we were off! We had booked a 10:30am trip with Joni of Emerald Lake Ranch, and she knew we were going to be pushing to make it in time, but we wanted to make sure we had some time to come back at a leisurely pace. So, with me set behind the wheel and Bev with the ultra-handy Murray’s Guide to the South Klondike Highway in hand, we headed up the pass and into Canada in search of adventure!

 

 

 

Two Princess Ships – Golden Princess (front) and Sapphire Princess (back). Most people can’t parallel park a car – imagine parking one of these?!

 

 

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A wide shot of the Sapphire Princess

 

 

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The Temsco heliport to our left as we pulled into Ore Dock

 

 

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A look at the ore loading system that gives the dock its name

 

 

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One of the railcars on the White Pass train patiently awaiting passengers

 

 

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The colorful engines of the White Pass railroad

 

 

 

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L.J.

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LJ - have just finished your 2012 report and am current with this one - they have kind of merged in my mind! THANK YOU for sharing your great story telling and amazing photography skills! You've gotten me so excited for our Alaska cruise coming up this June!

 

A random thought, not even sure which of the two threads it's coming from:

 

I saw a mention of a snowy owl on your photo bucket list. As a fellow NCer (I'm in Wilmington, loved your Port City Java shout out!), you may know that this year we have several snowy owls hanging out between you and the OBX. Ornithology prof at UNCW says they are juveniles chased out of the arctic by older owls after a very successful breeding season - lots of arctic mice meant more babies than usual survived. Anyway, if you google for sightings, you might be able to bag one, photographically speaking, without a big trip investment.

 

Can't wait to keep following along with your adventures!

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Given the time crunch to make our ride, we didn’t dawdle on our way out to Emerald Lake. The Klondike Highway from Skagway through British Columbia for a few miles and on to Carcross in the Yukon is a very easy drive. The road is in great shape, especially considering how much snow it receives each winter (and spring and fall). When we left Skagway it was misty with occasional rain and the upper 30’s, low 40’s. As we reached and passed the White Pass summit, it dropped down to around 29 degrees and the rain turned to snow for a few miles (I was wondering how the roads would be coming back but fortunately we were in the clear). We continued along NW into British Columbia and then into the Yukon.

 

 

 

Welcome to the Yukon!

 

 

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Once in the Yukon, the weather took a turn for the better, with clouds giving way to breaks of sunshine and climbing temperatures. We saw and passed Carcross and knew we only had a few more miles to go to get to our destination. A few minutes later, we saw the entrance to the Emerald Lake Ranch on the left…

 

 

The sign certainly was hard to miss – which was great. Nothing worse than looking for a tiny sign on the side of a strange road…

 

 

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We pulled in and parked and meet Joni, the owner and our guide for the morning. We arrived with a few minutes to spare and found out we were the only folks scheduled for our trip! So, while I do hate getting up early on vacation, it often pays off going on early excursions – better weather, smaller crowds, less heat, or in this case a de facto private excursion without asking or paying for one. So, in short order we met our horses, saddled up, and headed out in short order on our adventure. Joni had her horse, Trooper, Bev had a horse named Rosie, and I had a beast of a horse named Carolina. That was key for me when we were looking at the excursion since I’m a large guy, and I often exceed the maximum weight restriction for many horseback riding options, and I was relieved when Joni told me during our email conversations that she would have no problem accommodating me. Our first leg of our ride took us through some scattered forest and open trail as we headed toward the overlook to Emerald Lake, and Joni let us know that we were firmly in Grizzly bear country. In addition to Joni’s firearms, Joni had two even better weapons – her trusty dogs!

 

 

 

Better than bear spray

 

 

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Joni explained to us that the dogs were a great early warning and defense system for bears in the woods, and that with them around bear encounters were rare. Plus, they had a ton of energy and were quite entertaining during our ride. As we rode along, we asked Joni about life in the Yukon, and she shared all sorts of stories. Being just three of us it was easy to chat. Joni had a pretty colorful background, so the stories were numerous. A licensed guide, she was born in nearby Whitehorse, was the first woman to be president of the Yukon Fish & Game Association and was very active both in politics and community outreach. Before we knew it we came up over a hill, and there before us was Emerald Lake…

 

 

 

Joni & Trooper take in the view

 

 

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Emerald Lake and the mountains beyond…

 

 

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After we spent a few minutes drinking in the views of Emerald Lake, we set off on our second leg towards some whitewater runs/waterfalls that we along the river which of below us and off to the right as we looked at the lake. Along the way we got terrific views of the valley as is sprawled out before us and towards the distant mountains…

 

 

 

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We worked our way in and out of little forested areas and open spaces as we made our way from on top of the hill down to the river below. Before long, we made it to our second stop where we got a chance to get off the horses and stretch our legs and take in the beautiful surroundings…

 

 

 

L.J.

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LJ - have just finished your 2012 report and am current with this one - they have kind of merged in my mind! THANK YOU for sharing your great story telling and amazing photography skills! You've gotten me so excited for our Alaska cruise coming up this June!

 

A random thought, not even sure which of the two threads it's coming from:

 

I saw a mention of a snowy owl on your photo bucket list. As a fellow NCer (I'm in Wilmington, loved your Port City Java shout out!), you may know that this year we have several snowy owls hanging out between you and the OBX. Ornithology prof at UNCW says they are juveniles chased out of the arctic by older owls after a very successful breeding season - lots of arctic mice meant more babies than usual survived. Anyway, if you google for sightings, you might be able to bag one, photographically speaking, without a big trip investment.

 

Can't wait to keep following along with your adventures!

 

Fa-Li - thanks so much! I had no idea that we had snowy owls in our area - that's great news! It's probably too late for me this year, but I'll keep an eye out for them next season...

 

L.J.

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Ok folks,

 

Unfortunately this run is over for the moment as I'll be having surgery tomorrow. Hopefully it'll heal quickly and I'll at least be able to get back on the keyboard and mouse sooner rather than later. To folks planning and getting ready to travel to Alaska this summer - it'll be here before you know it - enjoy!

 

L.J.

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Hey LJ,

 

Good luck with the surgery.

 

Thankyou for your reviews. I read the 2012 last year and then found you were doing this one. Your previous review was the one that made us decide to bite the bullet and book an Alaskan trip.

 

Whilst we won't be doing Alaska on Radiance (we are going HAL), we will be cruising on Radiance from Vancouver back to Australia after our Alaska cruise.

 

All the information you have supplied has been incredibly helpful for us planning what to do in all ports plus in Seattle and Vancouver where we will be spending a few days.

 

Thanks again, good luck and we look forward to reading more when your up to it.

 

Kirrarne (Australia)

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