Live from Bordeaux!

[nana541]

Would love to see pictures around the ship, a cabin or two also! Always great to see pics that are real and not artfully arranged for an ad campaign.

Thanks again

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums mobile app

Edited May 14, 2014 by nana541

[editor@cruisecritic]

FotoPeg, we had a fabulous day in Bordeaux yesterday with Paul Dawson, a local tourism professor who's worked with Viking River to help develop some parts of the itinerary. He gave us some fabulous tips for great pllaces to eat and shop in Bordeaux (as did our lovely concierge, Bastien) and I'll put a list together at some point.

 

Carolyn

 

Carolyn ~ once again Thank You for your details!! And of all things, Thank You for mentioning mustard!! Sounds silly but on our Rhine River Christmas Markets cruise we bought pots of mustard in Cologne. DH loved it SO much and is savoring the little left - even my Swedish chef SIL put his usual imported mustard aside for our gift from Germany!! I know we'll be visiting that little store on our cruise!!

 

Between your suggestions and Elizabeth mentioning wine store on Bordeaux our list is growing!!! Best part of CC - getting suggestions from past travelers!!!

 

So please, keep telling us about this fabulous cruise!!!!

[Bet & Peg]

Carolyn ~ was your day in Bordeaux a tour? or a talk aboard the ship? Either way sounds great to learn more about the area!

 

A list of restaurants and shops would help us all - especially ones you've personally visited - nothing like a "real" recommendation like for the shop in Pauillac! And as Nana says - "real" photos!! (although personally I'm sure the Forseti is much like the Rhinda - sisterships - which we were on last December and it was just wonderful! Of course that was with Christmas decorations! Wondering if it'll seem a bit bare without them! But otherwise, the ship and especially the crew were just fabulous! Now I'm hoping October will be warm enough to really enjoy the top deck! We were only on it during the sail down the "middle" Rhine and it was a chilly morning - really enjoyed the available hot chocolate! And this cruise we have a balcony - didn't seem worth it in December!! Should enjoy the extra room!!)

 

Thanks again for taking your precious time to keep is all informed!!!

[loge23]

I know you're the Editor, Carolyn, but your narrative of your trip is really showing the value of this terrific site!

Can't wait for our July sail!

[tipsygirl]

I haven’t read much about the town of Pauillac, which on our cruise was the first port we stopped in. That’s probably because it’s always on a Sunday, which typically in France means just about every thing – shops, supermarkets, even restaurants, etc. -- is closed. We actually had a fair bit of time to explore – just about three hours or so before the day’s chateaux spotting. But there was a lot going on, from a lecture on Bordeaux to lunch.

 

So most of my fellow passengers didn’t get off before it was time to head to Viking’s motorcoaches. And that’s too bad. Pauillac is delightful (even on quiet Sundays).

 

Lying on the Garonne estuary, it’s an amazing thing to see the disparity of the tides. When we arrived, it was starting to be low tide and you could see boats lying on the mud. You couldn’t see our ship from the town’s main street – it was that low in the water! By the time we headed back from our day exploring chateaux (and having a marvelous dinner at one), the ship was riding high on the water – and you could absolutely see at least three decks worth.

 

In town, Bastien, our concierge, told us about a couple of places that were open. One was Le Cellier Gourmand (2, Quai Lyon Perrier), right on the main drag that overlooks the waterfront. Domi Capel (owner of the shop, a delightful lady, is in our first photo) was so lovely and told us all about her products, from foie gras to hand-made soap and from local wines to flavored mustards. We got inspired to start to acquire items for a picnic (fortunately our cabins all have mini-fridges) and everything looked delicious – and was reasonably priced. It’s also a great place to pick up locally made gifts.

 

The other fantastic spot (also food-centric) was a patisserie up about half a block on Rue du Aristide. There was a line out the door of locals which we thought was a good sign. The specialty is the Choclatine, translated as chocolate bread (which was confusing to us because it turns out it’s really just a chocolate croissant!). Delicious…..

 

The reason we call at Pauillac is because of its proximity to Haut-Medoc (and what’s dubbed the “chateaux highway” – France’s D2 – because of all the famous chateaux/vineyards that lie along it).

 

Carolyn

Carolyn, thanks so much for your continuing detailed account. For our cruise, since we were required to move to Bordeux rather than remain docked in Pauillac we didn't get the chance to visit the town. Also, our rainy weather prevented us from touring the gardens at Chateau Kirwan. As a science person I was also impressed with the Garonne estuary and the dramatic changes as the tides moved out. Gave us an even greater appreciation for the need to be flexible and understand the need for itinerary changes in response to the forces of nature.

So you have me convinced that I just need to take this cruise again. So much more to see, and the probability that each cruise may provide some different experiences.

[editor@cruisecritic]

Thanks, nana541! I have to say -- it's hard to keep up with it! I think a bunch of members said they'd tried to do the same thing but it fell by the wayside. I can see why :)

 

Carolyn

 

What a lovely review and great information, thanks so much for taking the time!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums mobile app

[editor@cruisecritic]

One note: Internet's been really good on this ship. There are occasionally little bumps and such, but especially in the lounge and the atrium area, I don't notice it as much different from home!

 

Carolyn

[editor@cruisecritic]

So far, and we still have another day to go, the tours have been really excellent, whether included-in-the-fare or at an extra price. But here’s a quick rundown of the tours that have generated the most enthusiasm, praise and excitement:

 

*On our first evening, as part of our chateaux tour (that part was okay but not fabulous), we wound up at Chateau Kirwan, a winery with the most gorgeous L’Orangerie, for an off-site dinner. It was magnificent; logistically it’s a major accomplishment for the ship’s restaurant crew – they bring the food, we’re greeted by our waiters, etc. And we’re given the run of the grounds, which have beautiful gardens, some funky sculptures, and line up along one of its vineyards. The owner actually lives in the main house, the actual chateau, and his daughter is on hand to explain the wines to us. It was a bit nippy the night we were there so most of us didn’t spend much time in the garden, but on a nice warm evening: fabulous. The whole evening was incredibly special. There’s no fee to participate.

 

*Truffle hunting with dogs is an optional tour, and it’s a long day (this is the only tour in which the travel time is really long – it’s about 1.5 hours from Blaye – and was two hours each way from Bordeaux, because on this cruise we didn’t cruise to Blaye). So it attracted only about 16. But everyone who went loved it. You’re essentially greeted by the owner with his dog (and with another dog, who’s “retired”) and go out into an arbor or forest where you’re shown how it’s done. Afterward, you go to lunch, cooked by his wife, in which every course has truffles in it. Sublime. Beyond the drive, the only other reason the appeal for this tour suffers is….

 

*…that it’s the same day as the visit to Chateau Siaurac which is just … amazing. It was a big surprise for me – and frankly, I probably would have done the truffle hunting if so many of Cruise Critic’s members hadn’t already raved about this. It sounds simple: You go to a chateau, tour its winery, have lunch. But the host, who owns the property with his wife, is so genial and welcoming and enthusiastic. He’s got a colorful way of explaining basic winemaking, the grounds are exquisite, the lunch terrific, and we enjoyed the wine. Smart touch: The winery imports via a Sonoma, California distributor so we could buy in US dollars and, just as importantly, pay US, not European, shipping rates. (Canada was more problematic for the chateau – different provinces have different restrictions).

 

It would be great to hear from Cruise Critic members who have tried the Bordeaux trip (whether on Viking, Uniworld or CroisiEurope); please weigh in with your insights and advice!

 

Carolyn

[editor@cruisecritic]

That's a bummer re the weather, Tipsygirl! Yes, you probably need another trip. I'd say that like any European river itinerary, your best chances for positive weather are in high season (mid-May - early August, and then again September - October). Prices are higher then, too.

 

Our weather started out clammy, cold and rainy; mid-week it got much, much better. The ship provides umbrellas and I packed a light rain coat that has gotten a fair bit of use!

 

Carolyn

 

Carolyn, thanks so much for your continuing detailed account. For our cruise, since we were required to move to Bordeux rather than remain docked in Pauillac we didn't get the chance to visit the town. Also, our rainy weather prevented us from touring the gardens at Chateau Kirwan. As a science person I was also impressed with the Garonne estuary and the dramatic changes as the tides moved out. Gave us an even greater appreciation for the need to be flexible and understand the need for itinerary changes in response to the forces of nature.

So you have me convinced that I just need to take this cruise again. So much more to see, and the probability that each cruise may provide some different experiences.

[editor@cruisecritic]

The biggest question I've gotten re Viking River's Longships is "does it feel crowded." Most of the time -- the ship is just about at capacity -- it does not. The service has been superb, the food fantastic, and people are doing different things at different times.

 

The only time it seemed crowded was at the embarkation talk, the debarkation talk (where I am right now, sad), and the dining room at dinner (breakfast and lunch there's plenty of room to spread around.

 

Here are some ship photos, more to come.

 

Carolyn

[magellan2022]

Carolyn,

You have such a wonderful gift for sharing your experiences! I feel as if I am right there with you! I feel your sadness that the packed full week is almost over!

Can't wait for July 5th! We are ready to board and sign up for the Chateau Siurac tour immediately!

Thank you,

Jackie

[apuleius]

I'm enjoying this thread and am off to bordeaux next week with DH on croisieurope so will add my feedback on tours and cruise experience.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[Theresab1103]

Loving this. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I'm trying to decide which river I want to do

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[editor@cruisecritic]

Thanks for the nice words!

 

I'm debarking tomorrow (early, yikes) and will plan to post some additional impressions I haven't had time yet to do. In the meantime, on today's Cruise Critic blog, here are "hits and misses" of the itinerary. This focuses on the region because it's so new, rather than the ship itself. A lot of this I've shared with already -- but some of it might be fresh for you.

 

Carolyn

 

Link:

 

http://www.cruisecritic.com/blog/index.php/2014/05/16/live-from-bordeaux-hits-misses/

[nana541]

This has been a wonderful thread, Carolyn thanks for taking us along for the journey!

Looking forward to more pics of the ship...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums mobile app

[editor@cruisecritic]

Hi, apeleius. We can't wait to hear about your cruise with CroisiEurope -- it's a relatively new line for Cruise Critic to cover. Its Princess L'Aquitaine was in port next to us (not adjacent, but ahead of us), and I'd love to know whether the food is from the region, and what your tours are like. Any details, really.

 

I've toured one of Croisi's ships (when I was in Lyon in March), and my colleague Jamey Bergman has written a bit about the company, but we need to know more, and want to!

 

Safe travels.

 

Carolyn

 

"

I'm enjoying this thread and am off to bordeaux next week with DH on croisieurope so will add my feedback on tours and cruise experience.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[editor@cruisecritic]

Thanks, Jackie. You know what the biggest challenge about reporting from the cruise has been? Spelling Chateau Suirac properly! I notice a lot of us are bedeviled, but I've finally mastered it, I think. Now it's on to spelling St. Emilion with just one "l"!

 

Carolyn

 

Carolyn,

You have such a wonderful gift for sharing your experiences! I feel as if I am right there with you! I feel your sadness that the packed full week is almost over!

Can't wait for July 5th! We are ready to board and sign up for the Chateau Siurac tour immediately!

Thank you,

Jackie

[editor@cruisecritic]

Hi, Theresab1103. I'm definitely happy to help advise, based on my experiences (just about every Europe river except Portugal's Duoro, and the Elbe, which is on my bucket list). As well, there's probably a post out there from someone trying to figure out just that same thing. And if there's no post, start one! I'll bet you get some great responses from your fellow members....

 

Carolyn

 

 

 

Loving this. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I'm trying to decide which river I want to do

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[editor@cruisecritic]

Archachon, a tour to a seaside resort town (that also fronts a magnificent bay) is an optional tour that we tried yesterday. What intrigued was that it was different from the river-based tours, with their emphasis on wine, castles and terroir. This was all about getting out on a boat in a body of water that reminded me of America’s Chesapeake Bay (and a topography that was like northern California’s coastline, Monterey and such).

It was just the most delicious day.

 

You start an hour's bus ride to this seacoast resort town. It's got a lot of wealthy folks, and I enjoyed the drive around some of the nicest neighborhoods to look at mansions that were in the double digits (millions). But beyond that, Arcachon didn't appeal all that much (unless you really like to lie on a beach). The best part of the tour was a boat ride all around the bay. Much the same as other regions around here, the tides are extreme and it was fun to see how that played out here, in particular. Plus, the focus is on oysters and you see it all in action, passing oyster boats, oysterman out there working their tables (you’ll have to try the tour to learn more), etc.. After about an hour in the boat on the most gorgeous sunny day we stopped at a darling village called Canon that's out on the peninsula, and were treated to raw oysters, a perfect white Bordeaux wine, and a demonstration how they’re grown and caught and such. Even those among us who aren’t hardcore raw oyster fans (ahem, me) thought they were delicious.

 

The town itself is darling with lots of painted fisherman’s huts and shacks and houses, very cheerful, with a beautiful view across the bay and a handful of restaurants. I would have been content to stay here…forever! Had a moment of insanity that involved calling my husband (who’d stayed in Bordeaux) and telling him to pack our bags and meet up in Canon!

 

There was another quick boat ride to our restaurant, in what’s called the Vineyard side of this peninsula because there once was a vineyard (I couldn’t quite get the detail though we didn’t see one) and there was terrific lunch for our group of 16. One oddity: Wine was included in the cost of lunch but iced tea and Coke were extra! I guess that’s a French thing.

 

Then we took the boat back, got back on the bus and headed to Bordeaux.

 

Happy to provide more specifics and have included some photos below.

 

Carolyn

Edited May 17, 2014 by editor@cruisecritic

[editor@cruisecritic]

Here's a fun photo: On Viking Forseti's first ever daylight Pont du Pierre bridge crossing (this is the tricky, cursed bridge that caused some issues for the line over the past month), we had a marvelous sunny day on the river, on the way back from Cadillac. Lining up for the approach under this, the tightest river of all (built during Napoleon's time) it was the best show in town (what you can't see are the rapids, just beyond, that make it especially tricky, but it's also quite a low and tight bridge). We had a wonderful afternoon "at sea", watching and waiting as the captain lined the ship up just so -- there are literally inches to spare on each side and the rough waters don't help -- and then we sailed through so smoothly!

 

Carolyn

Edited May 17, 2014 by editor@cruisecritic

[editor@cruisecritic]

I've spent a lot of time talking about Bordeaux, on this thread, more than Viking (I do still have photos but our cabin shot needs some Instagramming) because the itinerary is so new for most of us.

 

But it was a Viking trip too. This was my first trip on a Viking River Longship (I've done a full cruise on an older ship many years ago, and a lot of one or two nighters for christenings on the Longships, which aren't really representative of "real" cruises).

 

And I was wowed. This line may be expanding massively, but it's also upgrading its experiences, whether they are food-, service-, comfort- or tour-related. It's not just me. With a very few exceptions, everyone I met on tours or at communal dinner tables really raved about the staff, and the fact that on such a growing line there were a fair amount of repeaters speaks volumes.

 

My thanks to Viking's superb officers and crew -- you were all fabulous, but Thomas, Michael, Bastien, Dora (with the terrific towel animals), Laszlo, Andra and Meike, among others, wow! And Magalie, the chef, gets a special shout-out. She's the reason I'm going to have to diet for the next FIVE years.

 

It was interesting to talk with crew and staff about where they'd come from. In some cases they were river veterans with Viking, other cases river veterans with other lines, and in some cases were new-to-cruise (I especially can't believe how easy Andra made it look, and this was her first-ever ship).

 

Great, great trip, capped off with a transfer to the airport (at, yes, 4:30 a.m., hate early flights!) that was hosted. Meaning there was a lovely bi-lingual guide to help us navigate Air France's tricky check in machines. Nice touch that a transfer has a personal aspect to it, you’re not just getting dropped off. That touch I remembered from my years-ago trip. The rest? Seems to me that while Viking River has attracted the most attention for its innovative Longships design, it's not limited its efforts to that -- onboard and onshore enhancements are superb as well.

 

Carolyn

Edited May 17, 2014 by editor@cruisecritic

[Los_Pepes]

Carolyn- Based on your experience, does it make sense to use a company like Uniworld that is more inclusive in Bordeaux? I am thinking that there is so much good food and wine that it would be shame to feel tied down to the ship since everything is included. What do you think? I know the boat Uniworld uses is smaller and a little more opulent, but from what I am gathering from your review this trip is all about the location.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[Bet & Peg]

Carolyn ~ right now - as your cruise ends - I'm sad for all of us! Same feeling I have when I'm physically there!!! It's been great following you on this post - makes me more anxious to be there in person - hope our weather and the tides are as good! From the comments I think many feel the same way!!! Hope your tripe home is a safe one and easy one!

 

Archachon ~ thanks SO much for your complete review! Do you remember the name of the restaurant? I did laugh out loud about wine included and not soda!! Did you feel you missed a lot of Bordeaux by taking this optional? Still on my list - but in pencil!!! Wish I had "fought" harder to stay a few days post-cruise in Bordeaux - still sure DH will be sorry!

 

Airport ~ could you explain more about the tricky check in machines? Also interesting comment about a "hosted" transfer. Last December was first time we used Viking air and departing in Amsterdam was handled nicely as to time - we didn't have to leave the ship until about 10am. No one rode the bus with us but at the airport a Viking rep got on to tell us which number line to use but never came into the terminal. Maybe its a new service justifying the cost. Still thinking if we should use Viking's Bordeaux transfer or just a cab - got our own air since we'll be in Paris pre-cruise.

 

Thanks once again for all your time on this thread - I'll miss it and YOU!!!!

[Theresab1103]

I have been reading every river cruise review I can find. I'm still wide open to itinerary. I'm partial to France but my daughter, who will be 10 at time of travel, read a really detailed review on a Rhine cruise with loads of photos. If we do France, I was thinking of doing croisi simply because they are French. There are so many itineraries that appeal to me and I am open minded with the line. Read a review that listed the cost of all the additional Viking excursions and it has opened me more to AMA. Initially, I was looking at Viking as it has almost every itinerary possible and some really impressive prices. It's a good thing we aren't going until next year.

[apuleius]

Hi, apeleius. We can't wait to hear about your cruise with CroisiEurope -- it's a relatively new line for Cruise Critic to cover. Its Princess L'Aquitaine was in port next to us (not adjacent, but ahead of us), and I'd love to know whether the food is from the region, and what your tours are like. Any details, really.

 

I've toured one of Croisi's ships (when I was in Lyon in March), and my colleague Jamey Bergman has written a bit about the company, but we need to know more, and want to!

 

Safe travels.

 

Carolyn

 

"

 

 

Editor@cruisecritic I'll be happy to report back. Only a few days till we're off for our third croisieurope cruise (Rhine, Douro were the previous two).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums