AMAPrima Black Sea Voyage Live Blog/Review Sept 2014

Hydrokitty · October 28, 2014

Istanbul

Be very careful about keeping your eyes and hands on your luggage in a busy place, never remove and open your whole wallet on the street, (we carry small bills and change in a small clip wallet or cross body bag) and be very careful with holding cameras and smart phones out away from you for photos. (Jeff and I have a policy of when he is concentrating on a photo, I am usually standing behind him, watching his back.)

I'm sure most of you could GIVE this lecture! But hopefully, just one person learns how to be a little more street savvy, wherever they travel!

The "shoeshine" scam is not unique to Turkey, I've seen it in Rome, Cairo and a few other places. No matter what happens, keep walking and don't make eye contact.

Familygoboston · October 28, 2014

The "shoeshine" scam is not unique to Turkey, I've seen it in Rome, Cairo and a few other places. No matter what happens, keep walking and don't make eye contact.

Yes, I learned I need to get off the bus and walk around more, especially for my hubby for photos!!

That couple was very lucky the scam was just that a shoeshine scam to get some money for shoe shining...we have guys doing that in Boston with washing the windshields, it's everywhere! I mention it only because it's amazing that some people don't think! Not just young people, my elderly aunt went on a cruise with her neighbors from the 55+ place, and one fellow went out in Rome with his wallet in the back pocket with the huge "wallet" outline etched permanently on his pants; of course he was "chatting" with a local and lost all his cash, and ID. Really, removing the back pocket wallet should be a no brainier!

We did notice that quite a few people asked Jeff to take THEIR photo with their own phones...probably thinking that if you ask a guy with a more expensive camera than yours, he might actually be good at it AND he's less likely to steal YOURS! Here is the young lady who asked Jeff to take her photo with her phone, then, he asked if he could take a photo of her with his own camera! Then, she used her phone to take a photo of HIM! It was very sweet, and neither of them spoke a word of the same language!!:D Most locals (and tourists, like this lady) were so lovely and friendly!!

Edited October 28, 2014 by Familygoboston

Hydrokitty · October 28, 2014

Yes, I learned I need to get off the bus and walk around more, especially for my hubby for photos!!

That couple was very lucky the scam was just that a shoeshine scam to get some money for shoe shining...we have guys doing that in Boston with washing the windshields, it's everywhere!

New York got rid of the windshield guys with Mayor Giuliani.....he made it illegal!

One of our group members in Cairo got separated from us at the Pyramids. I think she was singled out because she was alone, but anyway, the guy grabbed her camera and told her to stand in front of the pyramid. He took her picture and then insisted she pay him for the picture before he returned her camera! She took out her wallet to ask him how much and he took about $600! At least she got her camera back, but that's probably the most expensive picture she owns and I sure hope it came out good!!

:D

Familygoboston · October 29, 2014

We took more video in Istanbul than anywhere else because there is so much to see and such a cacophony of sounds..I wish there was "smell-a-vision" and "taste-a-vision" too because Istanbul is a feast for the senses!!

This is a video of how the doner kebap (pictured above) is made

[YOUTUBE]LWiw80w9ZQk[/YOUTUBE]

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

Istanbul (private tour with Meli Tours)

Our TA set up private touring with Meli Tours in Istanbul. This was the perfect choice for us, we were able to go at the pace we preferred and we worked with Meli through our TA, to put together the itinerary we wanted. For instance, not being shoppers, we preferred just a short stop for photos at the Grand Bazaar rather than a 1/2 day shopping (which you could EASILY do!). I also had seen a painting at the Boston MFA that piqued my interest in the "Orientalism" school of the mid 19th century and wanted to visit the Pera museum...which is not usually on everyone's "must do lists". Also, we had requests for early meetings and late afternoon photo sessions. In addition to seeing the high points, we got off the beaten path and I felt our Meli guide was more honest about what were seeing than the provided AMA tour guides in Istanbul. It may have been a difference in personalities, it's hard to know, but we had a far richer experience with the our Meli Guide, Mete. We had the most amazing 2 days touring with Meli Tours in Istanbul. I highly, highly recommend them!

http://www.melitour.com/

If you'd like to read more about my reasons for choosing private or small group tours, see my blog post:

http://www.goseeittravel.com/travel-blog/2014/10/16/why-bother-with-a-local-guide

We met Mete in the lobby at 9 AM (say that 5 times fast!)

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

Touring Istanbul

Our all day walking tour started in Taksim Square

Panorama of Taksim Square

Mete explained who the characters on this statue which we had passed at least 6 times already since we arrived. In the center is Ataturk, who is considered the father of modern Turkey; he separated religion and state after the sultanate was abolished in 1922 and instituted other social reforms. Much of this seems to be changing again according to locals we spoke with. Religious rules of Islam are being imposed (such as girls being required to wear headscarves in school despite their stated religion) and separation of girls and boys in education is happening. Today, this is happening within a democracy rather than autocratic regime, but as a visitor, you can feel the change. This is CC, so I will not get into political opinion, but my next post has a little discussion of my own impressions about being an American in Turkey.

There is a very colorful flower market along Taksim

We rode the Tunel along the length of Istiklal Street for the experience of it, and because we had already covered it on foot the night before. Note you cannot buy tickets for the Tunel on the street car...you buy them from the chestnut vendor with the little red cart right by the stop! (his photo is in the post from our first night!)

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

This is part of a reply to an earlier question on another thread...but I'll repeat it here in case I have an "Istanbul touring" audience that hasn't read the other parts of the review!

Comfort on the streets and Etiquette

We did not find it uncomfortable to be in Istanbul at all! People were very gracious and welcoming. We did receive a list of etiquette rules from AMA, and these were helpful.

The only place we had any hint of a problem was in the security line at the airport leaving Istanbul where an Iraqi business man saw our passport and said "me, Iraqi..America...big problem". I'm not sure I can disagree with him, but we decided we did not want to get into it while in the security line :eek: (we felt fine about this encounter because this was the "SECOND" security line; every human being in the airport goes through one just to get into the airport, then you go through another before you get to the gates.)

In general, the people in the city were the same diverse mix you often see in any major city. Most of the very religious Muslim families we saw were tourists, as we were, visiting from places further east. Most were quite wealthy and enjoying a vacation with their families. (which is probably what they'd likely say about most of us!;))

Language

I think fewer Americans are going or maybe people couldn't believe we WOULD be there since we had guesses ranging from Australian ("close" my husband quipped back) to Great Britain to Canadian (No, maple leaf pins, so no!)

English is widely spoken and for most Turks, the market is more important than who you are, if you are buying, they are selling, and in nearly every major market, there is someone who speaks enough of your language to transact business with you! (German, Japanese, English etc)

We were most taken with the fact that Istanbul is a very comfortable place for East to meet West. We met many Westerners (a native of Iraq living in the Boston with an American husband visiting with her Iraqi family, a Muslim couple from Toronto on their way to Lebanon to visit family etc) My own opinion is that Istanbul and Turkey remains a place where East and West relatives and friends can meet and not face the danger or scrutiny an American visiting Iraq or an Iraqi visiting the US would face. It's a comfortable, secure place where everyone is made to feel welcome and invited to SPEND their money!

Clothing

We saw women dressed head to toe in burkas, and we saw Turkish girls with bare midriffs and belly button rings. As a tourist, I felt most comfortable wearing what would not draw attention. I was lucky that, in October, the weather was cool and comfortable and I almost always had a jacket and scarf on anyway. But in the summer, simple things like capri pants, or a long skirts, and a short sleeved top would bring no attention to yourself and be acceptable in all places, including places of worship (with an added head scarf) Outside of religious institutions, there is no need to wear a head scarf. You could be a tourist with sleeveless tops or shorts, and not be hauled off the street, but as a woman, you could expect to offend some people, (even if they don't say it) and you would not be welcome in houses of worship without covering. I think this is basic travel etiquette and did not feel it was an undue infringement of my rights.

An example of dress for visiting mosques:

War

Lots of people have asked about the effects of the war in Syria. I would say that right now, you will not feel the effects of the war anywhere in Istanbul, other than noticing the Syrian refugees. We did not see any disruption in services or demonstrations while we were there and we were there at a very hot time, when Erdogan and the Parliament were debating and trying to decide whether to allow the west access to their bases for action in Syria, or whether to take action themselves. We did sign up with the State Department to let them know we were in Turkey and be emailed any alerts. We received one like this as we were streaming out of Hungary on the AMAPrima, and while it was unnerving, we never felt like we were in danger while in Turkey.

U.S. Embassy Ankara

Security Message for U.S. Citizens: Increased Security Awareness

September 24, 2014

Following the commencement of military action against ISIL targets in Syria, U.S. citizens are reminded that there have been violent attacks in Turkey in the past, and the possibility of terrorist attacks against U.S. citizens and interests, from both transnational and indigenous groups, remains high.

While there is no new specific threat information of threats, U.S. citizens are reminded to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness. U.S. citizens should follow local news sources for any potential areas of concern, and exercise extra caution in the Turkey’s eastern and southeastern provinces.

All Mission Turkey facilities in Ankara Istanbul, Adana and Izmir are currently operating normally.

We strongly recommend that U.S. citizens traveling to or residing in Turkey enroll in the Department of State’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP). STEP enrollment gives you the latest security updates, and makes it easier for the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate to contact you in an emergency. If you don’t have Internet access, enroll directly with the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate.

Regularly monitor the State Department's website, where you can find current Travel Warnings, Travel Alerts, and the Worldwide Caution. Read the Country Specific Information for Turkey. For additional information, refer to the "Traveler's Checklist" on the State Department’s website.

Contact the U.S. embassy or consulate for up-to-date information on travel restrictions. You can also call 1-888-407-4747 toll-free in the United States and Canada or 1-202-501-4444 from other countries. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). Follow us on Twitter and Facebook to have travel information at your fingertips.

Contact information for the U.S. Embassy and Consulates in Turkey:

The U.S. Embassy in Ankara is located at 110 Ataturk Boulevard, tel: (90)(312) 455-5555, fax (90)(312) 468-6131.

The U.S. Consulate General in Istanbul is located at 2 Uçsehitler Sokagi, 34460, Istinye, Sariyer, tel: (90) (212) 335-9000, fax (90) (212) 335-9102.

The U.S. Consulate in Adana is located at 212 Girne Bulvari, Guzelevler Mahallesi, Yuregir, Adana, Turkey. tel: (90)(322) 346-6262, fax (90)(322) 346-7916.

The Consular Agency in Izmir can be reached at tel: (90) (232) 464-8755, fax (90) (232) 464-8916.

Just My Opinion

In my opinion, the secular nature of Turkey is changing, and it is becoming more of an Islamic state, rather than a place where church and state are separate. Examples of this are being seen more in the laws that govern the locals; segregated schools, and requiring headscarves of girls over age 9 in schools. We personally noticed that many remaining churches are being converted to mosques. We learned of several business that are being denied liquor licenses they have held for years. Our AMA tour guide described the Sultnan's Harem like it was an prestigious, exclusive girls school (and maybe it was, neither he nor we really know, but I found it hard to swallow the idea that a eunuch was "lucky" because he would get the same education as a prince)

I can't say that westerners and Americans in particular would feel a change in their welcome, or even notice these things, but as more religious laws become the law of the land, it will certainly be much harder for Westerners to visit. Of course, Turkey is a Parliamentary democracy, the Turks themselves will get to decide their fate with the people they choose to run their government.

Like in most places, the politics are very complicated! But as far as being open for business to all comers, Turkey, is and we had no troubles whatsoever! I recommend the same kind of heads up awareness that one practices anywhere, and to sign up for travel alerts through the State Department, both so they know where you are and you know if things are changing rapidly and how to find the local consulate.

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

So back to the fun and beauty of Istanbul!

Our first stop was to the Galata Tower to get a an overview of the city, going early we had no lines to wait in and great light to see and photograph the city.

Galata Tower Panos

Looking toward the Golden Horn and the Old Town

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

Galata Tour

More views from the Galata Tower

A view of the Roman Aqueducts that you pass through to enter the city.

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

Walk to the Pera Museum off of Istiklal St

We saw the place where the Galata Mevlevi worship. These are the "Whirling Dervishes" you may have heard of. It's a sect of Islam, that employs meditative dancing. We have heard there are groups that will let you view the worship services, but this was not something we wanted to do.

Markets near Istiklal are all very organized by what they sell, so there will be a whole block of lighting stores, then a whole block of music stores. This is common in Istanbul because people come from great distances to buy specific things and want to shop all the vendors in one place to get the best price!

This was one of Jeff's favorite encounters. As we walked along the street, we noticed a chestnut vendor chatting with this gentleman as he enjoyed his tea. Jeff loved the interaction between the men and asked our guide to ask if he could take some photos. The men assented, but the next photo was far more interesting! The gentlemen with his tea, motioned up into his building. We were with Mete, who explained he wanted to show us something (side note, without our private guide we would never be brave enough to go along with a gentlemen we had just met on the street!) He led us to the antique elevator in his building and proceeded to call it for us. He wanted us to see it, and we took some photos...he also wanted me to ride up in it, but I drew the line, fearing I'd be stuck all day in an ancient elevator! But it was wonderful that he wanted to share that with us, and Jeff also was able to make a wonderful photograph from this chance encounter!!!

Elevator Gentleman

Familygoboston · November 1, 2014

There are so many stories in Istanbul to tell!! I simply have not had time to write them the way I wanted last week, because it was such a busy week here! I've got lots more photos and stories...but have to break for a while, I promise to keep working to get all of them up soon!

Floridiana · November 1, 2014

I love your photos and stories!

Hydrokitty · November 1, 2014

I love your photos and stories!

Me too.bringing back wonderful memories of Istanbul :)

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Pera Museum

Off Istiklal St is a museum that includes Orientalist paintings. I had been to MFA in Boston with my daughter (an art student on assignment to compare two works) when I spotted a wonderful little painting called "Pigment Seller in North Africa" (1891) by John Leon Gerome, a French painter. I came home and goggled (there is very little about this painting) and also saw his "Moorish Bath" (1870)

http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/moorish-bath-32124

I simply loved the color and eroticism in these paintings, it was the idea of such "foreign" subject material that informed orientalist art, which was painted by mid 19th century European artists. In reading about how and why they chose this subject matter, I learned an important bit of history that related to Istanbul.

At that time Istanbul was the seat of the Sultanate of the Ottoman Empire. For years Ottomans and Europeans had been at war, but by the mid 19th century, the Sultans began to realize that they should have better relations with the west for trade. This began a period where "ambassadors" from the west visited the Ottaman Empire and "ambassadors" from the east visited Europe. Among these entourages and also attending the fancy state balls and dinners were the European artists of the moment. Imagine an artist's delight at the color and sensuality of the people and places they encountered. These subjects held a place in popular imagination (most people could not travel) and the paintings of and from the East became very popular compared to the prevailing painting styles. A whole new world was opened up to Europeans.

When I heard the Pera had a good collection of these European paintings of subject matter related to the Ottoman Empire, I had to make time for a visit. I think Mete was a bit mystified...why would Americans want to spend time in a museum of European art when there is so much to see that is Turkish?! But he was happy to indulge us an hour with the exhibit "Intersecting Worlds: Ambassadors and Painters".

We saw later that these ambassador visits influenced the last Sultans to build the Dolambahce palace in the style of the Europe palaces such as Versailles. There were so many intersections of the architecture, history and culture in the art that it was well worth a visit!!

Here you can see several paintings where the clothing and repose of the ambassadors caught the fancy of the painters. The Ambassadors would sit for portraits to show their importance.

There were often large receptions and elaborate arrivals of guests, (these are Western Ambassadors arriving at the Topkapi Palace) and these were documented by the painters before photography was popularized.

Mete was pleasantly surprised at how this exhibition dovetailed so nicely with the history of Istanbul, and he was especially delighted to see that the last "master piece" of the exhibition was a painting by the famous O.Hamdi Bey, the founder of the Archaeology Museum and a trusted adviser to the Sultans. This painting by O. Hamdi Bey is one of the most famous in Turkey and Mete had never seen it in person! He was literally delighted to tell us all about it!

Tortoise trainer and O Hamdi Bey

O. Hamdi Bey was a very progressive man and prior to his advisory role, the Sultans let anyone take archaeological treasures from the empire and display them in museums in London or NYC. It was O. Hamdi Bey that made the Sultans see these were priceless treasures that should remain in the Empire. He founded the Archaeology Museum and encouraged more open relations with the more modern West, and he introduced more modern methods of preservation.

Here is another example of great guiding!! Mete was able to explain to me what was symbolized in this self portrait of O. Hamdi Bey. Here is my thumbnail art criticism of this painting...(and I am no artist!) O. Hamdi Bey saw himself as a tortoise trainer, trying to encourage the slow and old fashioned Sultans to find a "new way". You can see in the photo that the Topkapi palace appears "run down", with peeling paint; this foreshadows what turned out to be the end of the Empire. But with the sun streaming in, you can see that O. Hamdi Bey was ultimately an optimist about the Empire's ability to grow and change with the times. There is plenty more to interpret from this amazing nearly life size painting, and it was a wonderful piece to see to begin our journey to the "Old City" and the seat of the Ottoman Empire!

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

We left The Pera to head down the rest of Istiklal St to take the Tunel (funicular) to the "Old City". We saw this painting of the old city in the Pera and it looks surprisingly the same even today, except for the sails!!

Painting of the Old City

As we made our way down istiklal St, we saw this...hmmm? what's this all about?? We would find out later!

Other sights on Istiklal St

Taking the Tunel to the port of Eminonu on the Golden Horn

Edited November 2, 2014 by Familygoboston

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

New Mosque; also known as the mosque built by the mother of Sultan Mehmet IV

Once we arrived at the bottom of the hill, we crossed the Galata bridge to the port of Eminonu, where the ferries depart and arrive and where the new New Mosque sits by the water. Mete chose this for us to see this mosque because, while it is beautiful and accessible, it is not as visited at the Blue Mosque. We found that because it was so quiet, it was a much nicer experience than the Blue Mosque, which was packed with tourists and lines.

a view from the Galata tower

The exterior

The inner courtyard

The interior

A video as the call to prayer was broadcast from the New Mosque, just after our visit.

[YOUTUBE]COHpQB5Am0c[/YOUTUBE]

Got2Cruise · November 2, 2014

Thanks for posting. Very interesting and we rarely find reviews from this itinerary.

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Thanks for posting. Very interesting and we rarely find reviews from this itinerary.

Thanks ! That's why I wanted to do one...I found a few, but really wanted to "show" through photos what this itinerary looks like, because it's not about viewing postcards from the deck! But we found it enlightening and each country had delightful hospitality and wonderful stories to tell!

I'm told I have the computer to myself this morning, and no football game till after 4:30...I'm hopeful to get quite a bit more up today!:D

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Spice Market and Lunch

Our next stop was the Spice Market, which is right next to the New Mosque. Currently it is completely wrapped in scaffolding and a covering, so you can't see the original old building. Despite the exterior renovations, it is open for business inside!

Spice bazaar

The inside of the Spice Market was a little quieter than the outside (see below) which signlas to me that the real shoppers and locals shop OUTSIDE and the tourists shop inside.

They will vacuume pack the spices for you so you can bring them home as "packaged" food, and not "fresh food" in most countries. Australia and NZ are much more strict about this, but the vendors were open about sharing that information. We had no trouble with customs in the US, and I did have one of the dogs even go by my bags in Boston and not stop (but a few seconds later he did detect at a toddler's backpack that had a fresh fruit and meat in it; so clearly, the vacuum packed spices are not a concern in the US)

Behind the building are outdoor stalls. The day we were there was a couple of days before the big holiday Eid Al Adha (this is a clue to an explanation of the ram on the loose on Istiklal!) The market was simply packed with locals shopping for the holiday! I took a video of the chaos that was happening at the outer stalls. Mete told me the vendor you can see and hear who is shouting to friend/client is saying the rolls are all freshly baked today!

[YOUTUBE]L4yDDeW2RUs[/YOUTUBE]

There is also a really interesting Pet Market on the left side (facing the bazaar building) that is primarily for locals because it sells live animals, live plants, agricultural products and seeds. (go ahead, just try to get THOSE past that beagle in the US!!)

Yup, leaches, still for sale! Eww!

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Lunch in Eminonu

After all that chaos (and at no time were we targeted for theft (pick pockets) or hustled or even had vendors hassle us...we felt very comfortable and safe, but it was more crowded than what we are used to!!

We did see a quiet spot where this wild bird was doing a little shoplifting!

If the pigeon ever decides to go legit, this lady is selling bird food right outside of the market.

We don't eat bird food, (depsite what my husband might say about my diet) so we stopped at one of the cafes to the left of the New Mosque for lunch

I had the doner kebap, which is the grilled meat shaved off. I had mine with rice (but they will put it in bread too) and served with paprika paste (that is the red substance on the right of my plate) We had this in Hungary too, and it is delicious...am I right, fellow travelers?? It is a sticky pepper sauce that makes everything yummy!

Here is a vendor making the doner kebap at the spice market for "to go" sandwiches.

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Hagia Sophia

Our next stop was the Hagia Sophia...we needed to take the surface metro train up the hill to the church, turned mosque, turned museum (but still sorta mosque- there is a small private section where people can still pray) This is one of the Big Daddy tourist sights in Istanbul. It was not too crowded for our visit, because it is a museum, there are no restrictions on clothing, but we were touring in long pants and sleeves anyway. It's a fascinating place because of it's history. It's a Byzantine Cathedral (Hagia Sophia) with parts that date to the 6th century. Then when the Ottomans conquered the area, it became a mosque and most of the grand mosques built after it were more or less patterned after this church, so they share the dome structure, while adding minarets.

Hagia Sophia- view from the Galata Tower

Exterior

The interior is very interesting. They have preserved the mix of Christian and Muslim symbols and are still uncovering early Christian symbols and art work, but we noticed that the latest restoration work is centered on the Muslim art and symbols.

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Hagia Sophia

One of the renovations revealed an angel face in one of the 4 corners, but not the other 3. (he looks a little ticked off about what happened to his church, doesn't he?)

Interior of the museum with the Madonna and Child mosaic and the Muslim Calligraphic Roundels

We went upstairs to the galleries and had a close up view of the Madonna and Child

Also upstairs on the south gallery is the Deesis Mosiac of Jesus with Virgin Mary and John the Baptist

There also some interesting Norse "graffiti" left behind by a Viking

There are some nice windows that have a view of the Blue Mosque

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

My Feet Are Killing ME!!

At this point, my feet had had it! The marble floors of the Hagia Sophia were rough after a full morning of touring on our feet. Mete, sensing we were flagging, suggested we take a break at the Panorama 360 restaurant. It's amazing how a good guide "reads" his clients and knows when it's time for a break! And this break didn't exactly take us out of the "action"; there were beautiful 360 views (as advertised!) of the Old Town and it was wonderful to be there having a Turkish tea and coffee and hearing the call to prayer of the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque perfectly synchronized!

Atop 360

Panorama from the Panorama!

Blue Mosque

Call to prayer at Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia from the 360

[YOUTUBE]XIvwGDiL470[/YOUTUBE]

View to Bosporus- you can see the big cruise ships were in! We noticed it when we saw all the big buses struggling to maneuver the streets and park, and that was another reason we were glad to be on foot (and the next day in a small van)

pacmom · November 2, 2014

Your photos are spectacular!!!!!!! The running commentary sooo good. Am reliving our times in Istanbul thru your eyes and words. Thanks.

Familygoboston · November 2, 2014

Bosporus Cruise to Asian Side

After we were appropriately rested (it's amazing what a few minutes off your feet and a few treats can do!) we made our way back down to the ferry terminal at Eminonu via the same metro we took up the hill. Once Mete had purchased our tickets for the ferry, we made our way to the Asian side area of Uskudar.

It was one of our goals to spend some time on the Asian side of Istanbul. Although the area is largely a residential area, there are some nice cafes and restaurants. We had hoped to use the late afternoon light to get some photos of the Old Town and the spires of the minarets shadowed by the sinking sun. It was also our goal to "tick" the continent of Asia off our life list! While we hope and plan to see a lot more of Asia over the coming years, we also plan to go to Antarctica in the 2-3 years, and wanted it to be our "last continent"! So this trip would achieve that in case we don't make it to another Asian country before our Antarctica trip.

Once we made it Uskudar, we walked from the ferry terminal along the Bosporus to this little cafe which is set up on the stairs that lead down to the Bosporus (you know, those same kind of scary stairs that almost landed us in the Danube earlier in the trip??) Thankfully, these stairs were much wider, and provided the perfect "amphitheater" to see the sun setting behind the old town. About an hour before sunset, the place filled up, with locals and tourists, while the waiters wandered delivering drinks and tea, and vendors wandered through selling bread and sweets.

I will let Jeff's photos speak for themselves! Here is another reason I like having a guide...I had someone to chat with while being a "photo widow"!

A video of sailing past the newer Bosphorus Bridge back to Kabatas Ferry Pier, which was closer to our hotel. We could see this bridge from our hotel room, and the first time I saw the flashing lights from the hotel, I thought the whole hillside beyond the bridge was twinkling!

[YOUTUBE]y14qxqsOoz0[/YOUTUBE]

We had barely enough light on the way back to capture the Topkapi Palace and Mosques on the peninsula.

AMAPrima Black Sea Voyage Live Blog/Review Sept 2014

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