Monte Carlo Port Day - Finding the Charm

[buggins0402]

On our upcoming cruise we have a long port day (a Sunday) in Monte Carlo - 9am to 11pm.

 

Originally, we we were going to take a train/bus combo to St. Paul de Vence, which we never seen. Also, I was less than impressed with MC, when we visited on a land trip to the French Riviera.

 

But, after looking over the schedules, I asked myself do we really want to spend 3 hours of our port time in transit - out of the wonderful Riviera sun - which after this cold spring is something I'm longing for. The ship will be right there and it's seems stupid to complicate the day, We'll save St. Paul for some future cruise down the road that ports in Cannes.

 

So...the question is....is there some charming places to visit that I might have missed? A street you loved poking down? It looks like there is a market (condamine) that runs 7 days a week. Anyone visited? We also did enjoy our drink outside at the Cafe de Paris last visit...watching the high rollers enter the casino, so we'll probably do that again (and remortgage the house:)). The Japanese garden is another possibility. We'll also revisit old town and the cathedral.

 

Was there anyplace you particularly found charming? We'll probably also try to fit in a run, rather than work out in the ship fitness center. Is there a way to run along the water?

[Hlitner]

Don't quite no how to answer. We have oft posted our dislike of MC and our habit of quickly getting out of that town when on a cruise or totally bypassing the city when we are on extended European driving trips. But not sure we understand your "3 hour" transit issue as there are plenty of charming places much closer. For example, Eze Village is no more then a 20 minute drive from MC. And Nice (Nice is nice) is less then an hour by local bus (which can be found within walking distance of the port) or even faster by the train (but the train station is not as convenient and the views are better from the #100 bus). Or one could take the bus or train east to Menton...a seaside town that some find charming (not sure we agree with this assessment.

 

And our favorite place in the region, St Paul de Vence, is reachable in less than an hour via rental car.

 

Hank

Edited May 17, 2016 by Hlitner

[buggins0402]

Don't quite no how to answer. We have oft posted our dislike of MC and our habit of quickly getting out of that town when on a cruise or totally bypassing the city when we are on extended European driving trips. But not sure we understand your "3 hour" transit issue as there are plenty of charming places much closer. For example, Eze Village is no more then a 20 minute drive from MC. And Nice (Nice is nice) is less then an hour by local bus (which can be found within walking distance of the port) or even faster by the train (but the train station is not as convenient and the views are better from the #100 bus). Or one could take the bus or train east to Menton...a seaside town that some find charming (not sure we agree with this assessment.

 

Hank

 

We've spent numerous days in Nice. We've also visited Eze (and actually bus timing isn't that great because it is a Sunday - so it would be about 2 hours burned - almost an hour each way) The morning into afternoon bus schedules keep running into a bus driver lunch break so we'd be spending more time than we'd like - also the direct bus doesn't run on Sunday so it has to be a combo.

 

I thought about Villa Ephrussi and Cap Ferrat.

 

I guess I'd rather work on MC and try to find it's soul. Actually, starting the day slow with a breakfast on the back deck, in the harbor and in the sun really has it's appeal right now. As does returning for an al fresco light lunch.

 

St. Paul is at best is 1 1/2 hours each way on the bus train combo. And if the bus back runs a bit late...it could be much longer if we miss the train connection. Sunday definitely makes things more difficult.

Edited May 17, 2016 by buggins0402

[Hlitner]

We've spent numerous days in Nice. We've also visited Eze (and actually bus timing isn't that great because it is a Sunday - so it would be about 2 hours burned - almost an hour each way) The morning into afternoon bus schedules keep running into a bus driver lunch break so we'd be spending more time than we'd like - also the direct bus doesn't run on Sunday so it has to be a combo.

 

I thought about Villa Ephrussi and Cap Ferrat.

 

I guess I'd rather work on MC and try to find it's soul. Actually, starting the day slow with a breakfast on the back deck, in the harbor and in the sun really has it's appeal right now. As does returning for an al fresco light lunch.

 

St. Paul is at best is 1 1/2 hours each way on the bus train combo. And if the bus back runs a bit late...it could be much longer if we miss the train connection. Sunday definitely makes things more difficult.

 

And you have done a great job laying out one of the major reasons we prefer to rent a car :). Being able to go where we want, when we want, without wasting any time waiting for a bus (or a straggler on a tour bus) allows us to get a lot more out of a port day. DW reminds me of a long MC port day when we picked up a car around 8:30, drove over to Nice for some time at the Flower Market, then on to St Paul de Vence for our usual strolling, browsing, and lunch, then a quick trip to Antibes for a stroll (and some time in their indoor market), then back towards the port...with a stop at Eze Village. And we actually dropped the car early because we were getting a bit tired :). Total cost of that entire tour (not including food) was just under 100€.

 

Using public transit to St Paul de Vence (we have also done this) is a very time consuming exercise and we have liked visiting Eze Village and timing our visit to the bus schedule (those buses can be more then 1 1/2 hours apart).

 

Hank

[buggins0402]

And you have done a great job laying out one of the major reasons we prefer to rent a car :). Being able to go where we want, when we want, without wasting any time waiting for a bus (or a straggler on a tour bus) allows us to get a lot more out of a port day. DW reminds me of a long MC port day when we picked up a car around 8:30, drove over to Nice for some time at the Flower Market, then on to St Paul de Vence for our usual strolling, browsing, and lunch, then a quick trip to Antibes for a stroll (and some time in their indoor market), then back towards the port...with a stop at Eze Village. And we actually dropped the car early because we were getting a bit tired :). Total cost of that entire tour (not including food) was just under 100€.

 

Using public transit to St Paul de Vence (we have also done this) is a very time consuming exercise and we have liked visiting Eze Village and timing our visit to the bus schedule (those buses can be more then 1 1/2 hours apart).

 

Hank

 

Wonders of wonders...I did find an automatic available from Auto Europe for only $100 on a Sunday. I thought that would be impossible. I'll mull that one over.

 

But, I would still be interested if anyone has some secret places in MC that exude European charm. When we were there before, it wasn't that we didn't like it....but, we liked everywhere else better. It would make for a nice leisurely day to stay there on a very busy itinerary and I would like to give MC a chance to change our minds. I wasn't impressed with Cannes on our first trip, but the second time we focused on everything butthe movie area and it ended up changing my attitude toward the town.

Edited May 17, 2016 by buggins0402

[Host Bonjour]

Wonders of wonders...I did find an automatic available from Auto Europe for only $100 on a Sunday. I thought that would be impossible. I'll mull that one over.

 

But, I would still be interested if anyone has some secret places in MC that exude European charm. When we were there before, it wasn't that we didn't like it....but, we liked everywhere else better. It would make for a nice leisurely day to stay there on a very busy itinerary and I would like to give MC a chance to change our minds. I wasn't impressed with Cannes on our first trip, but the second time we focused on everything butthe movie area and it ended up changing my attitude toward the town.

 

I remember walking along a long promenade in Monaco on my way to dinner the first night - I saw some locals fishing in the sea and so I was just looking on a photo map to find where it was - it's there....was thinking it would be a nice place for you to run...there was black top.

 

I liked the Princess Grace Rose Garden and I found myself most peaceful overlooking the harbor up by the Oceanographic Museum (which I visited and enjoyed) and in the area of the Cathedral, near the Palace. As for little streets - I did the same thing I did in Venice - just wandered away into little streets and walkways. Of course, Monaco is so very small - one square mile. I was staying in Fontvielle - the smaller harbour to the west of the main harbour (this wasn't a cruise) and so I'd walked east to do a lot of my sightseeing from that port and enjoyed it each time. Then, as you mentioned, there is the area near the Hotel de Paris/Casino where there is the Japanese Garden and there is another place the Jardin de Afrique. Also the pool is open from May to October from 9am to 6pm and costs approx 6 Euro pp. Also, I'd google to see what's happening on the day you'll be there - might be something fun locally aside from the market to participate in. I met and spent time with people there - it changed my experience. That can happen even in just one day. I think time spent meandering in the gardens, up above the harbour, visiting Fontvielle, café sitting, taking meals, maybe the Oceanographic museum (if you've not yet visited) and strolling the small streets that lead away from the ports - you'll find a leisurely day has come and gone.

 

When I visited Monaco I very much wanted to make it "mine" because for me, there was always a special allure to it...since you have an interest in passing the day there and discovering more (it's there) why not do just that? See what YOU can find while adding on more of Monaco's treats to your day plan ;) The thing about Monaco is, there really isn't any place like it elsewhere in Europe - that's why it's tough to recommend or compare it to how I have visited other places with hidden gems. In and of itself - it is a gem...one of a kind, multi-faceted and it does sparkle.

[Hlitner]

I should add that we were just in MC last month and must of the city near the port was a complete mess because they were erecting grandstands for the upcoming Grand Prix. So if you are looking for charm (it it exists) you might want to avoid MC every year from early April until a few weeks after the race.

 

Hank

[buggins0402]

Thanks to you both.

 

Hopefully, the trappings for the Grand Prix will be gone when we're there in a few weeks.

 

Thanks for the idea to check local events - we love "happenings" when we travel. It appears to slow weekend just a bouquet contest. There is a Sunday Mass in which the MC boys choir sings, it might be possible to time a visit just as it is letting out and perhaps hear a bit.

 

I hadn't remembered how small MC is ....we might be running multiple loops. It's so hilly, that's why I hoped there was a clear path along the water.

 

Looking at the map to the Japanese Garden area from the port area I can't see a road or path by the water (but there does appear to be a tunnel of some sort).

 

Fontveille also looks to have some garden areas - perhaps a jaunt in that direction also on our run if it's nice.

 

LOL - I'll find the charm if it kills me.

[Host Bonjour]

Thanks to you both.

 

Hopefully, the trappings for the Grand Prix will be gone when we're there in a few weeks.

 

Thanks for the idea to check local events - we love "happenings" when we travel. It appears to slow weekend just a bouquet contest. There is a Sunday Mass in which the MC boys choir sings, it might be possible to time a visit just as it is letting out and perhaps hear a bit.

 

I hadn't remembered how small MC is ....we might be running multiple loops. It's so hilly, that's why I hoped there was a clear path along the water.

 

Looking at the map to the Japanese Garden area from the port area I can't see a road or path by the water (but there does appear to be a tunnel of some sort).

 

Fontveille also looks to have some garden areas - perhaps a jaunt in that direction also on our run if it's nice.

 

LOL - I'll find the charm if it kills me.

 

Cheers - great spirit you have! :)

 

It already sounds like you are on your way to making Monaco your own on Port day - attending the Mass for the choir performance and then heading to some of the Gardens where the various shows will be judged might be wonderful. People definitely run there - everyone is fit and fabulous in Monaco ;) I have no doubt you'll alternate sprints and walks. Indeed, the tunnel is cool - been through it, albeit in a taxi (it was later at night heading to a club!) short, but effective.

 

Make it yours - have fun...when you return again, you'll have YOUR places to go back to. That IS the secret of Monaco...my friends that lived in various charming European cities would drive there again and again for short holidays and just loved it, as I did. There really is no other place like it :)

Edited May 18, 2016 by Host Bonjour

[marazul]

As I said in the Italy boards, you don't make it easy. The obvious there would be in Monaco, the Cathedral, palace, museum. There are also the Exotic gardens with a great collection of succulents. Enough has been said about the Monte Carlo side.

 

Unfortunately, the MC tennis open is over, but that is a wonderful location to watch tennis overhanging the sea.

 

You said you found a really good deal on a rental car. If you are willing, you can drive up what we call the "whiplash" road up to La Turbie. There is a Roman monument from when the actual road used to be the Via Julia. From there you can take the D2564 down to Rocquebrunne-Cap Martin and on to Menton.

 

An alternative for unbelievable charm, but no Monaco, would be to drive into Italy and just past Ventimiglia to turn inland on the SP64 to Dolceacqua and Apricale. Have lunch at La Capana di Baci (the bell of the kisses) in Apricale. The bridge at Dolceacqua appears in several Monet paintings. They are both really old towns and fun to explore.

 

So, head East. You will find the charm.

 

If you want to head West, do go to the Villa Kerylos, the Villa Ephrussi and Cap Ferrat. To me, the jewel of Cap Ferrat is the Villa Santo Sospir decorated by Cocteau and with a really racy history. Amazing and lots of fun. Google it, you have to make an appointment to visit.

 

There are some really nice beach restaurants in Eze-bord-de-Mer, like the Anjuna or Papaya beaches.

 

So, don't do the obvious, get out of MC to find the charm.

Edited May 26, 2016 by marazul

[marazul]

Forgot to mention that there is a walking trail around the perimeter of Cap Ferrat that takes a good couple of hours. The views are spectacular. No hype.

Edited May 26, 2016 by marazul

[buggins0402]

As I said in the Italy boards, you don't make it easy. The obvious there would be in Monaco, the Cathedral, palace, museum. There are also the Exotic gardens with a great collection of succulents. Enough has been said about the Monte Carlo side.

 

Unfortunately, the MC tennis open is over, but that is a wonderful location to watch tennis overhanging the sea.

 

You said you found a really good deal on a rental car. If you are willing, you can drive up what we call the "whiplash" road up to La Turbie. There is a Roman monument from when the actual road used to be the Via Julia. From there you can take the D2564 down to Rocquebrunne-Cap Martin and on to Menton.

 

An alternative for unbelievable charm, but no Monaco, would be to drive into Italy and just past Ventimiglia to turn inland on the SP64 to Dolceacqua and Apricale. Have lunch at La Capana di Baci (the bell of the kisses) in Apricale. The bridge at Dolceacqua appears in several Monet paintings. They are both really old towns and fun to explore.

 

So, head East. You will find the charm.

 

If you want to head West, do go to the Villa Kerylos, the Villa Ephrussi and Cap Ferrat. To me, the jewel of Cap Ferrat is the Villa Santo Sospir decorated by Cocteau and with a really racy history. Amazing and lots of fun. Google it, you have to make an appointment to visit.

 

There are some really nice beach restaurants in Eze-bord-de-Mer, like the Anjuna or Papaya beaches.

 

So, don't do the obvious, get out of MC to find the charm.

 

Thanks Marazul, I really wanted to hear your ideas, because you lived and breathed the area. Thank you!

 

The most intriguing is the rental car east to Italy.. I'm going to have to do some soul searching this weekend, between easy peasy stay in MC, or find the charm out east. I did consider the Cap Ferrat hike in my searches, but, with the Portofino hike next day nixed it.

 

Lol...you've made it a very tough decision between seeking the charm or chilling out.

[marazul]

Thanks Marazul, I really wanted to hear your ideas, because you lived and breathed the area. Thank you!

 

The most intriguing is the rental car east to Italy.. I'm going to have to do some soul searching this weekend, between easy peasy stay in MC, or find the charm out east. I did consider the Cap Ferrat hike in my searches, but, with the Portofino hike next day nixed it.

 

Lol...you've made it a very tough decision between seeking the charm or chilling out.

 

A couple of points. There are street demonstrations, road closures, actions in the ports, etc going on in France right now because of protests against the new work law. There is a large demonstration in Nice today. You might want to keep an eye on the news. (The local rag, I mean newspaper, is nicematin.com) It could all be over in a few days.

 

Now you are going to Monaco, which is not France, so you will not be affected. That makes the idea of renting a car and going to Italy even more appealing and I would recommend following the shore road rather than the autoroute, both because it is more beautiful and because that short distance will not be affected. Besides, you will be there on a Sunday and I have noticed that even the strikers like to take Sunday off...

 

In addition, Dolceacqua and Apricale have not been 'discovered' so you will not have the crowds and traffic that will certainly be in St Paul, Eze, Nice, etc.

 

As for staying on the ship, it is appealing, but you also miss the opportunity to see something new or revisit a place you enjoy. That's why I try to find slightly longer cruises with a couple of sea days so I don't have to make the choice. Whatever you do, you will enjoy your vacation.

Edited May 26, 2016 by marazul

[buggins0402]

A couple of points. There are street demonstrations, road closures, actions in the ports, etc going on in France right now because of protests against the new work law. There is a large demonstration in Nice today. You might want to keep an eye on the news. (The local rag, I mean newspaper, is nicematin.com) It could all be over in a few days.

 

Now you are going to Monaco, which is not France, so you will not be affected. That makes the idea of renting a car and going to Italy even more appealing and I would recommend following the shore road rather than the autoroute, both because it is more beautiful and because that short distance will not be affected. Besides, you will be there on a Sunday and I have noticed that even the strikers like to take Sunday off...

 

In addition, Dolceacqua and Apricale have not been 'discovered' so you will not have the crowds and traffic that will certainly be in St Paul, Eze, Nice, etc.

 

As for staying on the ship, it is appealing, but you also miss the opportunity to see something new or revisit a place you enjoy. That's why I try to find slightly longer cruises with a couple of sea days so I don't have to make the choice. Whatever you do, you will enjoy your vacation.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the strikes. It could have an impact on our stop in Marseille also. I'm keeping my eye on the French pilots also...I read something a few weeks ago that they've been threatening and we're flying Air France from LIN to CDG on the return.

 

If we stayed on the ship - we'd still spend a bit of time in Monte Carlo - just not go crazy with the day (more of a close to the ship day - with short touring). Yes - no sea days was a problem with this itinerary. But, hopefully we can slow down a bit on the land Italy portion of our trip, so that we'll feel like we'll had a vacation when we get home. :) Looking forward to retirement when we can allocate more time to our trips.

 

I googled Dolceacqua and Apricali. Beautiful. They look to be living breathing Eze's. If we don't get there this trip - they've been filed in the memory bank for a future trip. They are a wonderful secret to now know about. We've generally avoided car rentals during the cruise itself - primarily because we have horrid time judgement on driving trips. But, we do have long time in port. Rental agency (Hertz) closes at 12:30 - but I guess we could just leave the car.

[Cqis]

Thanks everyone. I was piggy backing on this post, as I also want to know what to do in Monte Carlo. I don't want to rent a car, or bus or train to anywhere else. This has been a help in planning since I did have a few things in mine. YES I will go to the casino. Can't have my first trip to Monte Carlo and not see the casino. I think I will take a cab (age 70's and 80's).

[mskaufman]

We were in MC a week ago today. We went to St. Paul in the morning and then back to the ship for lunch. In the afternoon we walked up to the Royal Palace (fairly close to where we were docked). There is also an aquarium on the way (we didn't go but I heard great reports from those who did). Lots of shops in the area.

[buggins0402]

I'm the OP and just wanted to say we had a pleasant day in MC. We went to the Condamine market, then strolled over to the Japanese Garden. We came back by the Casino and then up to old town and the Garden Afrique. After lunch we did a nice run along the water and it was great to see the local families enjoying time at the beach...kids playing soccer and such.

 

We enjoyed all three meals sitting outside on the back deck of the ship soaking in the view.

 

Would I go to MC in the future if the ship ports elsewhere along the Coast? Nope. I still prefer the other towns. But, all in all, it was a nice relaxed day and we did manage to find a bit of town's personality.

[Beanb41]

We will be in Monte Carlo next year on the Constellation on GP day. Assume it will be chaotic

[pjcruise]

We have a long day/night in Monte Carlo when we stop there next May. I would like to go further afield, possibly Eze but I am having trouble trying to find a bus timetable online. I am not interested in hiring a car. Does anyone have any experience with this?

[Host Bonjour]

We were in MC a week ago today. We went to St. Paul in the morning and then back to the ship for lunch. In the afternoon we walked up to the Royal Palace (fairly close to where we were docked). There is also an aquarium on the way (we didn't go but I heard great reports from those who did). Lots of shops in the area.

 

Was your ship docked near Fontvielle? I'd stayed in a hotel in Fontvielle and the Palace was close to it - a pretty but smaller port than MC's main port. I did visit the Oceanographic Museum, it was fascinating but it sounds like you enjoyed a lovely port visit. Thanks for your report :)

[Host Bonjour]

I'm the OP and just wanted to say we had a pleasant day in MC. We went to the Condamine market, then strolled over to the Japanese Garden. We came back by the Casino and then up to old town and the Garden Afrique. After lunch we did a nice run along the water and it was great to see the local families enjoying time at the beach...kids playing soccer and such.

 

We enjoyed all three meals sitting outside on the back deck of the ship soaking in the view.

 

Would I go to MC in the future if the ship ports elsewhere along the Coast? Nope. I still prefer the other towns. But, all in all, it was a nice relaxed day and we did manage to find a bit of town's personality.

 

Hi buggins,

 

It sounds like you managed to take in quite a lot of Monaco - a great bit of what was recommended as well as getting in the run you'd hoped to, with the sea and beach as a backdrop, sounds wonderful. The market, casino, gardens...all different highlights of Monaco, glad you managed to work them all in, while enjoying your meals on board the ship taking in the port view which is one of the finest, most photographed harbors in Europe.

 

Monaco won't ever compare with the quaintness of an Eze or St Paul de Vence, Cap Ferrat...but... it has an allure all the same and it definitely worth exploring.

 

Thanks for the great follow up, always great to get an end to the story :)

[buggins0402]

We have a long day/night in Monte Carlo when we stop there next May. I would like to go further afield, possibly Eze but I am having trouble trying to find a bus timetable online. I am not interested in hiring a car. Does anyone have any experience with this?

 

https://www.departement06.fr/documents/A-votre-service/Deplacements/transports-en-commun/112.pdf

 

We took this bus from Nice to Eze village then on to Monte Carlo, but it was more than a few years ago on a land stay. Worked fine and shouldn't be difficult from Monte Carlo if you time it right. Note...this bus does not run on Sunday.

[pjcruise]

Thanks for the timetable. I think we will enjoy going to Eze

 

 

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[Spree75]

Thought I'd jump into this thread since I have a similar question. Our TA suggested two different options for our stop in Monte Carlo. We have a soft spot for architecture (modern and ancient) and glass.

 

Option 1: Morning at E-1027 in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin east of the city followed by the afternoon in Eze.

 

Option 2: Morning glass blowing in Biot followed by the afternoon in Saint Paul de Vence

 

Can we really go wrong with either option? This is the first time to the area for either of us. Anything in Monte Carlo that we shouldn't miss?

[Hlitner]

Thought I'd jump into this thread since I have a similar question. Our TA suggested two different options for our stop in Monte Carlo. We have a soft spot for architecture (modern and ancient) and glass.

 

Option 1: Morning at E-1027 in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin east of the city followed by the afternoon in Eze.

 

Option 2: Morning glass blowing in Biot followed by the afternoon in Saint Paul de Vence

 

Can we really go wrong with either option? This is the first time to the area for either of us. Anything in Monte Carlo that we shouldn't miss?

 

These are very interesting (and rare) combination options. Roquebrune and Biot are not normally places visited by cruisers (or most folks on day trips). We would normally suggest pairing a visit to Nice (or Monte Carlo for those that have a desire to spend time here) with Eze. Roquebrune is a bit further afield (towards Menton) and, if using public transit, would be a bit more of a challenge (but doable). As to "Glass Blowing in Biot" we honestly have no clue (despite having spent weeks in the area). But looking at a map that does fit (geographically) with a visit to St Paul de Vence (one of our favorite places in the region).

 

The issue is how you get to these places. If you hire a private driver/guide you are going to probably pay 350-500€ and you might be able to go to even more places :). A rental car should cost you no more then 90€ (depending on whether you can drive a stick) and would also give you a chance to see more then just two places.

 

Public transit is a whole different ball game. Both St Paul de Vence and Eze Village can only be accessed by regional buses (although it is possible to do the long uphill hike from the train to Eze Village). Regional bus schedules (and stops) are somewhat limited so you would need to review bus schedules and actually plan your day around the bus schedules. This is your cheapest option...but also the most complex/structured.

 

Hank