Live on Pursuit: Lisbon → Rome

[cavaaller]

 

I would love to take you with me on our cruise on the

 

Azamara Pursuit March 2023 (9-night Med Highlight Voyage)

 

 

 

 

Our itinerary:

LISBON, PORTUGAL 

GIBRALTAR, UNITED KINGDOM 

MALAGA, SPAIN 

BARCELONA, SPAIN 

BARCELONA, SPAIN 

NICE, FRANCE 

FLORENCE/PISA(LIVORNO),ITALY 

FLORENCE/PISA(LIVORNO),ITALY 

ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA), ITALY

 

Me and my husband are in our 50ies, new to Azamara (but having cruised with Celebrity Cruises and MSC YC many times).

We are looking forward to this new experience because after what I have read here on CC, Azamara might be an even better fit for us than Celebrity: We like a quiet atmosphere, like to explore on our own, like good food, attentive service. We do not cruise for the entertainment and/or the parties but enjoy a good conversation.

 

Our journey begins at the Mony at Cologne Airport.

In accordance with the Moxy concept, this hotel is sparingly furnished and equipped. The rooms don't even have a kettle, let alone a coffeemachine. But that is no real problem – you can either enjoy breakfast at the hotel, which is relatively cheap at 15 euros, or eat at the airport. The breakfast is good, the staff are very nice, we did not regret staying here.

 

Our flight Is only a little bit delayed which is actually quite surprising:

Germany is in the midst of collective bargaining in the public sector. As a result, massive strikes unsettle the transport system every two days or so. The airports also suffer greatly. It feels like once a week everything is at a standstill here at one airport or another. In CGN we had this problem a few days ago – not very altruistically (of course I am aware of the importance of these strikes) , I'm glad that everything is running smoothly today.

[cavaaller]

 

We wanted a hotel fairly close to the cruise port. Azamara docks at the new Cruise Terminal JTab ( see which terminal your cruise ship docks here)

 

There are three hotels in direct proximity to the terminals: one hotel directly across the Apolonia terminal: the Editory Riverside Hotel. Rooms are very small and rather expensive. 

 

 

And two hotels near the New Terminal:

 

The Aurea Museum Hotel and the Palacete Chafariz d’el Rei. Both are beautiful and on the expensive side which made it very hard to chose.

Although the Chafariz is by far the less practical hotel (only accessible via very narrow cobblestone pathways, no elevators at all – you have to carry your luggage a lot, far and there are many many stairs) I chose this because I just loved the pictures I saw online. It seemed like a real château – quirky, stylish and just like a very palatial (pun intended) way to start our cruise. 

Communication with the hotel was very good – they arranged a transfer that met us at arrivals at LIS airport. Extra wishes (separate duvets and late checkout) were granted without hesitation.

 

Our room was stunning, the staff amazing (!) and the hotel is so conveniently located, we were glad, we chose it!

Edited March 23, 2023 by cavaaller

[cavaaller]

[cavaaller]

The weather was lovely, so we did a tour:

 

HoHo buses and TukTuk drivers (1,5 hour tour for 100€/6 Pax) are waiting for guests directly at the hotel / next to the terminal. 

Daytickets for public transport (metro, bus, Tram, Elevator Sta. Justa*, Funicular Bica, Funicular Glória, Funicular Lavra) 6,60 €, link to buy online or on metro stations:

Points of sale wherever these logos are visible:

 

 

I had downloaded the Rick Steves audio tour for Lisbon so we did this tour by foot:

 

This is a link to the googlemap I created. The tour is about 6,3 km long and should take about 2,5 h (plus breaks)

 

Edited March 23, 2023 by cavaaller

[cavaaller]

The following is an excerpt of Rick Steves free audiotour (and wikipedia and andalusia 360°.com). Thank you Rick Steves!

 

If you keep left and keep walking along the water, after about 1,5 km/0.9miles (20 minutes) you will arrive at:

 

Praça de Commercio,

 

which, interestingly, is laid out like a U open to the sea. 

This is the Baixa district.

 

In 1755, Portugal was hit by a huge earthquake, followed by a tsunami, which razed the entire city to the ground. One reads of 100,000 deaths – one of the most devastating natural disasters in European history. 

 

So until this earthquake the royal palace was situated right here on this squaire. We find a triumphal arch on which Vasco de Gama and the Marquis de Pombal are immortalized. The equestrian statue shows the unpopular King Dom José I, who had financed the reconstruction of the square. 

 

Fun fact: Allegedly, the statue was actually intended for a Mexican king, who died before completion. Since the two were similar, this was probably a bargain J. I love that bit!

 

The elephant represents the colonial power of Portugal, which stretched from Africa to India to China. Just one month after the disaster, José's Prime Minister, Pombal, drew up plans for the reconstruction of Lisbon into a modern European city – Lisbon rising from the ashes like a phoenix... and Pombal gets a statue as a thank you.

The buildings around the square are perfectly symmetrical – equal height, round arches, rectangular windows with iron balconies – which is Pombal's architectural style and can be found throughout the city.

 

A café from the time of Pombal is still active: the Martinho da Arcada (in the right corner of the square). On the left you will find ViniPortugal, where you can do a comprehensive wine tasting for little money: You buy a "card" / 2 Euro deposit, which you will receive back when you return the empty card, put an amount of at least 5 Euro on your card and help yourself to the wines (white, ros, red) you want to taste (insert card, select wine, press button . . . . enjoy) – this reminds me of the Enomatic Wine Dispensery Machines on Celebrity Eclipse a few years back.(But we didn't do the tasting – my husband does not drink alcohol) 

 

Back to our tour:

In 1974, Portugal's dictatorial regime was overthrown during the Carnation Revolution and thousands of people gathered in this square.

 

We cross the archway (Arco da Rua Augusta). On the arch we see the Lady Glory, to the right and left of it river gods (Tagus / Douro). Below (directly below the arch) you can see the history of Portugal as a timeline: from the far left: the scantily clad aboriginal to the far right: to the general who liberated Portugal from its oppressors in 1300. The bearded man with the hat represents Vasco da Gama (who sailed around Africa to Asia in 1400 and whose conquests brought Portugal the transformation from a fishing village to a cosmopolitan city). The well-dressed man is once again Pombal.

 

So now we stroll through Baixa (translated: low). The flooring is beautiful: black and white mosaic tiles.

 

At the first intersection you can see the 2 towers of the old cathedral (to the right).

 

We follow Rua Augusta (in  the Museu do Design on the right, free entrance, toilet).

 

The atmosphere here is unique: cafés, boutiques, elegant old-established shops (interestingly subsidized by Lisbon to preserve the charm of the city... great concept, which unfortunately does not work everywhere, you can also find many cheap shops...)

 

One notices that the city has a rectangular street network (with blocks like in New York and Mannheim, a sign of the era in which Pombal planned it (Enlightenment – everything should be logical, rational, scientific, a "functional city whose beauty lies in simplicity")

 

At the intersection of Rua da Conceião you can see the tram tracks that Lisbon has preserved from the 1920s. Here stops the #28E that connects the Bairro Alto (left), the Baixa (where we are right now) and the Alfama (right). The tram is a Lisbon attraction, very vintage and a great way to explore Lisbon. Unfortunately also very full (of trick thieves). 

 

Instead, we walk 2 blocks further to Rua Vitoria. Also beautiful with the mosaics on the pavement (called calçada, a Portuguese art form from 1800: black basalt (Ca-Fe-Mg-Na silicates) and white limestone (Ca carbonate -fixed with concrete). Since these stones become slippery when it rains, the government is probably considering replacing them – what a pity!

 

We turn right into Rua da Vitoria. At the 2nd block we cross Rua da Prata. Hidden here: the church of São Nicolau:

 

[cavaaller]

The foundation stone is over 800 years old but was rebuilt after the earthquake and now amazes by 2 different façades: one ecclesiastical, one secular (which integrates into the row of houses). Although the population would have liked to see magnificent churches, Pombal was oriented towards budget and usability. He was pragmatic and provided fireproof stone walls but flexible wooden beams inside that could withstand earthquakes.

 

We walk up Rua da Prata to the left through the dense Lisbon traffic towards the equestrian statue of King Joao I.  Joao married an English princess, which resulted in a strong alliance with England and the prince "Henry the Navigator". Henry explored the African coast, ushering in the age of conquest that paved the way for Vasco de Gama. These conquests assured Portugal three centuries of glory, for Joao's heirs ruled Portugal until 1910!

 

 

We are located in an old marketplace. I read that the houses were built by military engineers from prefabricated blocks that could be transported by ship – that's why this architecture can probably be found in some Portuguese ex-colonies (Brazil / Mozambique). Today, Baixa is changing, many apartments are empty because the population is moving to the outskirts. Lisbon city being too expensive.

 

The name of the street (Silver Street) commemorates the silversmiths who worked here – a Jewish quarter that was completely wiped out by the earthquake.

 

This square is also home to the Confeitaria Nacional (#18), a confectionery dating back to 1829 (far left), which is said to be frequented by many locals. Fun fact: They owned Lisbon's first phone 😃

 

 

The most famous specialty is the pastel de nata.

 

The square is a starting point for trips by trolley #12E to the castle or by bus #714 to Belém.

 

We leave the square via the upper left corner, on Rua Dom Antão de Almada and pass a large church: Igreja de São Domingos. 

A baroque church (which had also fallen victim to the earthquake – in the middle of All Saints' Day, where many believers were in the church, collapsed the heavy stone walls and buried the churchgoers. In the church itself you can still see the stone walls blackened by the fire that followed the earthquake). 

From here (with the church in the back) at the top right, the street Rua das Portas de Santo Antão leaves, the food mile of Lisbon. 

 

But we keep left/right (into R. do Amparo) and meet Praça Rossio, the historic center of Lisbon.

 

Due to the elongated rectangular shape, historians believe that the square was once a Roman racetrack (2000 years ago). Here, too, the floor is again decorated with beautiful mosaic – here wave-shaped, reminiscent of Portugal's conquerors.

The statue in the middle of the square is Dom Pedro IV. (King of 1820, raised in Brazil – oversaw the process of Brazilian independence).

We leave the square at the top left (seen uphill) via the R 1° de Dezembro and arrive at the Rossio train station

Built around 1900 in neo-Manueline style (never heard of... is probably a Portuguese style that should reflect the golden era of 1500 – pointed arches on the ground floor and round Renaissance arches on the 1st floor but also horseshoe arches in reference to Muslim architecture... Oh well!).

 

We continue uphill (on the left side of the road) passing the elegant Hotel Avenida Palace, which is Lisbon's oldest hotel. 

And come to an oval square, which has an obelisk in the middle, commemorating the (regained) independence of Portugal from Spain (1640). 

 

We pass the classic cinema Eden (1920) and continue upwards to the left to Avenida da Liberdade, until the Ascensor da Glória appears on the left,  a cable car.

See the googlemaps/-earth pic and position on the right:

      

(runs every 10 minutes).

It is cool that this orbit is probably mainly driven by gravitational force: Two orbits are connected by a cable: While the orbit descends at the top, it pulls the orbit down upwards. There are only two stops: up and down. (Ticket costs 3,80 € payable in cash to the driver -steep price if you consider that a dayticket only costs 6,40 € and you can use all the elevadores and public transport)

[travelberlin]

Wow amazing review 👍

thanks!

Ivi

[cavaaller]

At the top we are at the Maradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

Alternatively: on foot 400 m, difference in altitude: 48 m, 18 % gradient.

We go up the stairs and walk towards the park to Rua São Pedro de Alcântara. Here we find a beautiful park with a panoramic balcony.

We are standing on the hill of the Bairro Alto district, the valley is the Baixa district and opposite you see the Alfama district. There you can see the Castle of São Jorge (St. George). 

 

Back at the stop of the funicular we shorten the tour a bit.

Not very picturesque but the shortest way: We go down the R. de São Pedro de Alcântara (becomes Largo Trindade  Coehlo ➞ R Dda Misericórdia)  to Largo da Trindade  (go up left), re into Nova  da Trindade, directly left again into Rua Trindade, which we go down to the charming square Largo do Carmo. Decorated with an old fountain and rosewood trees. 

 

Here is the Museum of the National Guard. In the 1970s, Portugal was ruled by fascist dictator António Salazar. But the country was in turmoil as the former Emperium collapsed – African colonies demanded their independence, there was unrest on the streets. Salazar responded with the National Guard – a threatening force that crushed freedom fighters and arrested dissidents. In 1974, the people rose up and confronted the National Guard – but instead of putting themselves in the wrong by force of arms, the people marched towards the National Guard and put carnations in the gun openings of the Guard. Salazar was forced to resign and the people rejoiced (among others on the Praça do Commercio, see above).

 

Dom Pedro de Menezes follow (meanders around and up a few steps) and come to the iron lift Elevador de Santa Justa (you can use the 24h ticket)

 

 

The elevator was built in 1902 by a student of Gustav Eiffel. 

The upper entrance is at Largo do Carmo, the lower stop near Rossio in Rua Santa Justa. 

 

The first floor can be climbed free of charge – the elevator can be used with a day ticket of the Carris whereby the viewing platform costs another 1.5 € surcharge. 

 

Without a train ticket it costs 5 €. 

 

(from below)

[cavaaller]

Back on the square we walk to the right one block up the Travessa do Carmo. Here we are in the Chiado district, a neighborhood for the "M'as-tu-vu bourgeoisie" and bohemian writers/actors of Lisbon, who went to the opera and are people-watching in hip cafés here.  In 1988 there was a devastating fire here that destroyed a lot.

 

We follow the left turn into Rua Serpa Pinto until it  crosses Rua Garret.

 

Interestingly the street lighting with the gas lanterns is depicting a ship with two birds – the coat of arms of Lisbon. Lisbon was conquered by the Moors in 1100. When the body of the patron Vincent was to be brought up by ship, he was protected by ravens. As a result, Lisbon became a place of pilgrimage.

Turning right onto Rua Garrett we find beautiful mosaics on the way.

A beautiful pedestrian zone leads us past Café A Brasilera. A 100-year-old institution for coffeehouse junkies.

 

Back in the other direction we go down the road to the FNAC, then turn right onto the R. Nova do Almada go down to Rua de S. Julião (T junction) here we go left 2 blocks further until  the R. Augusta crosses, which leads us to the right again to the Praça do Comércio.

[cavaaller]

This morning we woke up to the sight of the beautiful Azamara:

After breakfast we took another stroll through Lisbon and walked by the cruise terminal to ask, at what time, we could check in.

 

They told us that check-in would start at 11 o'clock and boarding would commence around 13:30.  We could have dropped the luggage at 9 o clock already.

 

[brazilgirl]

Enjoying your review so far! We just got off the Pursuit, looking forward to your impressions. 
 

On a side note, I have looked at staying at the Chafariz before. Glad you enjoyed it!

[cavaaller]

So we checked out of our hotel and schlepped our suitcases down what felt like a millions flights of stairs 😁 and dropped it with the porters. 

 

We went upstairs for the passport check, the security screening and the check-in which took about 10 minutes in total. Then we were instantly told we could board the ship.

It was so quick and convenient - it was an amazing experience!

 

Following @Grandma Cruising's  Tips for newbies, we went straight to the speciality-dining-reservation table which was situated on the pool deck and made our reservations.

After that we had a nice lunch in windows café. You cannot beat this view, can you?

 

 

followed by a little coffee in Mosaic café.

 

[cavaaller]

Thanks everyone for your kind words and your reactions ❤️

 

At 14:10 the captain made the announcement that the cabins are ready - much earlier than I expected.

 

to be continued tomorrow...

[cavaaller]

Our Suite is stunning. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our butler's name is Osvy and our Stewart's name is Pipul. I can already say that they are excellent.

 

The benefits that come with the suite are a bit better than I expected/read:

We have one internet package per person (unlimited)

I was allowed to choose a bottle of Spirit from this list:



As a welcome we got a bottle of Perrier Jouet and a bottle of red and white wine

The contents of the minibar are completely free (soft drinks, beer and sparkling water)

We have received an invitation to the BOB dinner, which will take place on Sunday (Malaga)

A small bouquet of flowers and a plate of fresh fruit were also brought to us later in the evening.

 

 

[cavaaller]

Setting up the internet account was not as obvious as on the other cruise lines.

 

On your Iphone/Ipad:

First you chose the WIFI, you get a pop up where you can create an internet account.

After that you have to select a package.

My problem was, that under "redeem free package" they did not list the "whole voyage" but only Circle-Reductions. Instead I had to pick the "whole voyage" package with the displayed/regular price. In the next step though the screen showed, that the whole price was deducted. 

(I am telling this in a very confusing way - suffice it to say it was not that obvious and I needed help from the Helpdesk 😃).

 

 

[cavaaller]

The sail away from Lisbon was absolutely picturesque:

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately, we were a bit queasy as the ship rocked a lot. Behind the mouth of the river, the captain turned the ship into the wind (or out of the wind?) so that the waves came from behind. From here on, I had no more problems with nausea (or was it because of the Benadryl?) – but my poor husband suffered all night.

[cavaaller]

For dinner we had decided that it would be nice if the food would come to us. In the INSIDER you find a barcode that you can use to view the menu of the day/evening.

 

( they linked the wrong menu though so poor Osvy had to come back with the current menu).

 

I had a salad and

braided short ribs and DH had a broth and the steak. Mine was very good DH's was OK

 

 

.

Osvy saw that we had gone to fetch some ginger ale at the bar. So when he came back to collect the plates, he brought some new cans and put them in our fridge. That is what I would call attentive.

 

 

 

Edited March 24, 2023 by cavaaller

[cavaaller]

The night was rough, as I already mentioned. And -because the captain was going at full speed - it was incredibly loud in the cabin. 

 

This morning: beautiful weather and a wonderful breakfast at windows café.

 

I like, that you can chose the strength of your coffee by tapping on the beans:

 

The choice was overwhelming: 

Everything from fruit to pancakes made to order, a lot of vegan choices aswell.

Also: It was remarkable how attentive the staff is. I had only just finished my juice when a waiter came by to ask me if I wanted another one. 

 

 

 

[Oslo Dutch]

Thank you so much for your excellent review. We will join Pursuit next week in Civitavecchia for a 7-day cruise to Greece.

 

 

 

 

[Azulann]

I am enjoying your trip report. The stateroom is spectacular. 

Looking forward to seeing more pictures of the Pursuit. 

Hope the  seas are calm for the rest of your journey. 

[travelberlin]

Thanks for your updates. This sailing from or to Lisabon worries me. Do you know ( or does someone know if the Azamara ships have stabilizers? 
Ivi

[MAsquared]

23 hours ago, cavaaller said:

This morning we woke up to the sight of the beautiful Azamara:

After breakfast we took another stroll through Lisbon and walked by the cruise terminal to ask, at what time, we could check in.

 

They told us that check-in would start at 11 o'clock and boarding would commence around 13:30.  We could have dropped the luggage at 9 o clock already.

 

I am loving your review!!! I adore Portugal and have cruised on Azamara once to Cuba.  Great cruise line imo.  ENJOY IT!

[Host Jazzbeau]

2 hours ago, travelberlin said:

Thanks for your updates. This sailing from or to Lisabon worries me. Do you know ( or does someone know if the Azamara ships have stabilizers? 
Ivi

Yes they do, but stabilizers don’t work if the waves are hitting the ship from the side (and apparently also not if from the back). 

[asnaleah]

Ozvy was our fabulous Butler from Buenos Aires to Rio. Please tell him hello from Erin and Stephen. 

[cavaaller]

I am running a little bit behind with my review – sorry for that.

 

Let met tell you about Gibraltar.

 

 

On the first night Osvy brought us a map full of papers. When I asked DH, what it was he told me it was publicity (as on the lines we had been with, we always got a plethora of promo flyers). I had all but forgotten about the map and am glad that when tidying up the desk I found out that it was actually a destination-package, Azamara had printed out for us. It contained detailed maps and tips for every port – how lovely is that!?

 

 

We docked in Gibraltar with german punctuality.

Our plans were to go ashore and hike up to the WWII tunnels (pink arrow)

There were plenty of taxis waiting right when we left the ship, there was also a port shuttle, that would have taken us to Casemates square for 6€ / 4 GBP RT.

 

 

We walked there and it only took about 20 Minutes. On Casemate's Square all the cafés and pubs were open. It was a lively and busy vibe. We walked on following “Main Street” (clearly indicated by large signs) a shopper’s paradise. On the edge of “Bell-Lane” we followed the sign to the Castle Steps. You can alternatively take an elevator for at least part of the way but at that time we stilo had ambition. After the elevator there was an Escalator (not working though) but you could sense that they were trying to make this incredibly hilly city more accessible. (It is not a city for wheelchairs or strollers…)

 

After plenty plenty plenty of stairs and a lot of sweat we arrived at the Moorish castle

 

(from wikip.: The fortifications on and around the site of the Moorish Castle were first built in 1160. The Tower of Homage, its main feature, dates primarily from about 1333 AD. In 1940, Royal Engineers commenced excavation. A total of 52kms of World War II Tunnels have been hewn out of the Rock. City under Siege Exhibition is one of the buildings ever constructed by the British in Gibraltar. Undoubtedly, the most important aspect is the graffiti that can be seen on the walls, the earliest of which dates back to 1726)

 

This is where it gets less interesting: you have to pay a fee of 16 GBP pp for the entry into the Nature Reserve. I should have done my homework a bit better because you can only pay those by VISA CC. No Amex, no Euros, no Debit Cards.

That was a real shame because I would have loved to see the tunnels and I also wanted to walk further to the upper rock. But I guess this means that we will have to come back, doesn’t it?

 

We were a little frustrated (that is my DH, me: a lot) and descended to Main Street. We walked on towards the Cable Car. So the Cable Car is absolutely walkable from the cruise ship. We then returned to the ship via the Sea-Promenade (which is a little euphemism…

 

if I may say this: Gibraltar is not All beautiful..).

 

Edited March 25, 2023 by cavaaller